(»?.,'     • 
■'  ♦  ;■>'.■'-.■ 

-•V     •  '•        V.' 

.  ,-  ■     •  ^  -i  .     .    .■ 

.'.•;,-r J,;-. ■:-••;;  .. 


L  I  E)  R.AFLY 

OF  THE 

U  N  IVLRSITY 

or    ILLINOIS 

b 

5(b38  \c 

V.    \ 


iLLii'-iuiS  hi'; 

ritrK  HISTORIGAl 


n- 


'M 


in 


■;:1 

^K^K 

i 

|HM 

-Uil 

'^yiMH 

/iXl 

r. 

m 

:   ?  A  o 

.  ;?  /  4- 

r[\ 

'  )ffr 

^-1 

■i  3  2  3". 

/■     '; 

,  ■';'  / 

li 

FATHER     DE     SMET's     AUTCGRAPH     MILEAGE    RECORD    FROM     THE    LIXTOX    ALBUM. 


LIFE,  LETTERS  AND  TRAVELS 

OF 

Father  Pierre-Jean  DeSmet,  S.  J. 

1801-1873 


Missionary  Labors  and  Adventures  among  the  Wild  Tribes  of  the 

North  American  Indians,  Embracing  Minute  Description  of  Their 

Manners,  Customs,  Games,  Modes  of  Warfare  and  Torture, 

Legends,  Tradition,  etc.,  All  from  Personal  Observations 

Made  during   Many    Thousand    Miles    of   Travel, 

with  Sketches  of  the  Country  from  St.  Louis 

to    Puget    Sound     and    the    Altrabasca 


Edited  from  the  orig^inal  unpublished  manuscript  Journals 

and  Letter  Books  and  from    his   Printed   Works    with 

Historical,  Geog-raphical,  Ethnological  and  other  Notes; 

Also  a  Life  of  Father  De  Smet 


MAP  AND  ILLUSTRATIONS 


BY 

HIRAM    MARTIN    CHITTENDEN 

Major,  Corps  of  Engineers,  U.  S.  A. 

AKD 

ALFRED  TALBOT  RICHARDSON 


FOUR   VOLUMES 
VOL.  I 

NEW  YORK 

'RANCIS    P.    HARPER 
1905 

-    r    •    -J 

I 

Copyright,  1904, 

BY 

FRANCIS  P.  HARPER 

All  rights  reserved 


v.\ 


TO  THE  MEMORY 

@t  X\\t  "QXtu 

OF 

WHATSOEVER   CREED   OR   NATION   WHO   SPENT   THEMSELVES 

IN  THE 

farming  of  tltc  'Wl^z^X 


5J5:V?S 


PREFACE. 


The  present  work  is  an  outgrowth  of  the  interest  which 
the  editors  have  long  taken  in  the  pioneer  history  of  the 
West.  Explorers  of  this  attractive  field  are  constantly  run- 
ning across  the  trail  of  Father  De  Smet,  which  interlaces 
the  whole  Northwest  from  St.  Louis  to  the  Straits  of  Juan 
de  Fuca.  Wherever  encountered,  it  is  a  tempting  trail  to 
follow,  for  it  is  marked  in  all  its  course  by  episodes  roman- 
tic and  interesting  and  frequently  of  weighty  importance. 
A  devout  and  zealous  missionary,  Father  De  Smet  filled 
the  Oregon  country  with  religious  establishments,  some  of 
which,  in  spite  of  the  vast  changes  of  later  years,  survive 
to  the  present  day.  He  was  acquainted  with  most  of  the 
native  tribes  of  the  Northwest  and  with  many  of  them  he 
was  on  terms  of  intimate  friendship.  Their  trust  in  him 
was  so  complete  and  his  influence  over  them  so  great  that 
the  government  repeatedly  besought  his  aid  in  paving  the 
way  for  its  negotiations  with  them.  He  assisted  at  the 
great  Indian  council  of  185 1  near  Fort  Laramie.  In  1858 
and  1859  he  accompanied  the  Utah  and  Oregon  expedi- 
tions under  General  Harney  in  the  nominal  capacity  of 
Chaplain,  but  in  the  actual  role  of  pacificator  and  inter- 
mediary between  the  military  and  the  Indians.  In  1864 
he  was  sent  by  the  government  to  pacify  the  Indians  of  the 
Upper  Missouri,  and  again  on  a  similar  errand  in  1867. 
In  1868,  it  was  alone  through  his  great  influence  that  the 
hostile  Sioux,  who  had  declared  war  to  the  death  with  the 
white  race  and  were  spreading  terror  over  the  whole  region 
of  the  Upper  Missouri  and  Yellowstone  valleys,  were  in- 
duced to  meet  commissioners  of  the  government  and  enter 

into  a  treaty  of  peace. 

[vii] 


VIU  PREFACE. 

Father  De  Smet's  travels  were  not  confined  to  the  western 
country.  He  visited  many  parts  of  the  United  States  east 
of  the  Mississippi,  crossed  the  Atlantic  nineteen  times  and 
made  one  voyage  around  Cape  Horn  and  two  by  way  of 
Panama  in  the  interest  of  his  work.  He  was  well  known 
in  both  Europe  and  America,  and  on  one  occasion  was  made 
the  bearer  of  dispatches  from  this  government  to  several 
European  courts.  He  took  an  active  interest  in  public 
affairs  and  watched  them  with  an  eagerness  which  one  would 
hardly  expect  from  his  exclusive  order  of  life. 

Wherever  he  went,  whatever  he  did  and  much  of  what  he 
saw  were  carefully  recorded  in  letters  to  his  superiors  or  to 
his  personal  friends.  Many  of  these  letters  were  published 
in  his  lifetime;  many  others  were  never  published  and  are 
accessible  only  in  the  original  letter-books.  Altogether 
they  constitute  a  rich  fund  of  material  upon  the  early  his- 
tory of  the  West,  particularly  during  the  critical  period  of 
our  Indian  wars.  Unfortunately  these  writings  are  practi- 
cally inaccessible  to  the  general  public.  The  unpublished 
letters  are,  of  course,  wholly  so.  The  published  works  are 
nearly  all  out  of  print  and  some  of  them  were  published 
only  in  French.  There  has  never  been  written  a  satisfactory 
biography  of  Father  De  Smet. 

To  supply  these  deficiencies  and  make  the  life-work  of 
this  great  missionary  and  public  man  familiar  to  students 
of  our  country's  history,  the  editors  have  prepared  the 
present  work — Life  and  Letters  of  Father  De  Smet — 
comprising  a  complete  biography,  all  his  important  letters 
both  published  and  unpublished,  illustrations  characteristic 
of  his  missionary  career,  and  a  map  showing  the  wide 
range  of  his  travels  west  of  the  Mississippi. 

The  original  arrangement  in  the  published  works  has 
been  discarded  entirely  and  the  letters  have  been  reclassified 
according  to  periods  and  subjects.  Even  the  English  texts 
have  not  been  literally  followed,  for  they  are  nearly  all 
translations,  and  the  editors  have  felt  at  liberty  to  sub- 
stitute their  own  rendering  wherever  they  have  thought 


PREFACE.  IX 

it  desirable.  The  English  of  the  published  texts  is  almost 
throughout  a  translation  from  Father  De  Smet's  French 
letters,  and  none  of  it  apparently  is  his  own  work.  It  is 
full  of  renderings  of  French  phrases,  and  more  particularly 
of  geographical  names,  which  show  a  lack  of  familiarity 
on  the  part  of  the  translator  with  the  subjects  treated.  No 
record  has  been  kept  of  the  pagination  of  the  published 
letters  for  the  reason  that  much  of  the  matter  was  duplicated 
in  different  texts  and  in  the  present  edition  is  extensively 
interspersed  with  new  letters  treating  of  the  same  subjects. 

The  narrative  letters  are  classified  under  five  chrono- 
logical periods,  each  of  which  is  prefaced  with  an  itinerary 
of  Father  De  Smet's  travels  during  that  period.  Following 
the  narrative  portion  are  the  letters  containing  observations 
upon  Indian  affairs,  missionary  work,  public  questions,  etc. ; 
personal  letters  to  his  friends  in  Europe  and  America  which 
show  the  inner  life  and  character  of  the  man;  and  finally 
many  of  the  letters  received  in  the  course  of  a  long  and 
active  correspondence.  The  new  matter  in  the  present 
edition  is  about  equal  in  volume- to  all  heretofore  published, 
and  contains  everything  which,  in  the  opinion  of  the 
editors,  would  be  of  general  interest.  It  omits  several  of 
the  published  letters  relating  solely  to  church  matters. 

The  editors  are  under  particular  obligation  to  the  Jesuit 
authorities  of  the  St.  Louis  University  for  access  to  the 
old  letter-books  of  Father  De  Smet,  and  for  other  valuable 
assistance.  Thanks  are  also  due  the  Reverend  J.  D'Aste, 
S.  J.,  of  St.  Ignatius  Mission,  Montana;  W.  R.  Logan, 
U.  S.  Indian  Agent  at  Fort  Belknap  Agency,  and  James 
H.  Monteath,  U.  S.  Indian  Agent  at  Blackfeet  Agency, 
Montana,  for  information  furnished.  Among  the  published 
works  consulted.  Shea's  Catholic  Missions  in  the  United 
States,  History  of  the  St.  Louis  University,  by  Father 
Walter  H.  Hill,  S.  J.,  and  Palladino's  Indian  and  White  in 
the  Northwest,  are  the  most  important. 


CONTENTS  OF  VOLUME  I. 

PAGE. 

Preface vii 

CHAPTER  I. 
The  Jesuits  in  America i-8 

CHAPTER  H. 
Early  Life  of  Father  De  Smet 9-18 

CHAPTER  HI. 
A  Romance  of  an  Indian  Mission 19-30 

CHAPTER  IV. 
The  Flathead  Mission 31-43 

CHAPTER  V. 
The  Oregon  Missions 44-57 

CHAPTER  VI. 
The  Great  Council  of  1851 58-65 

CHAPTER  VII. 
The  Utah  and  Oregon  Expeditions 66-75 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

JOURNEYINGS   AT   HoME  AND   AbROAD,    1860-1866  .  .  .  76-88 

CHAPTER  IX. 
Peace  Commissions  of  1867  and  1868 89-103 

CHAPTER  X. 

Character  of  Father  DeSmet 104-114 

[xi] 


Xll  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XL 

PAGE. 

The  Indian  and  the  Missionary 115-126 

CHAPTER  Xn. 
Views  upon  Public  Affairs 127-135 

CHAPTER  XIII. 
Literary  Work 136-146 


PART  I. 

The  Potawatomi  Mission,  1838-1839 I47-I49 

CHAPTER  I. 
Journey  to  Council  Bluffs i50-iS9 

CHAPTER  II. 
Comments  on  the  Situation 160-170 

CHAPTER  III. 
Daily  Life  at  the  Mission 171-178 

CHAPTER  IV. 
Excursion  to  the  Sioux  Country 179-192 


PART  H. 

The  Flathead  Mission I93-I97 

CHAPTER  L 
St.  Louis  to  Green  River  Rendezvous 198-215 

CHAPTER  IL 
Green  River  Rendezvous  to  Three  Forks  of  Missouri      .      216-232 


CONTENTS.  XUl 

CHAPTER  III. 

PAGE. 

Return  from  Three  Forks  to  St.  Louis      ....      233-259 

CHAPTER  IV. 
A  Second  Account  of  the  Journey  of  1840       .       .       .      260-271 

CHAPTER  V. 
St.  Louis  to  the  Platte  River,  1841 272-288 

CHAPTER  VI. 
From  the  Platte  River  to  the  Bitter  Root  Valley     .       .      289-314 

CHAPTER  Vn. 
Founding  of  St.  Mary's  Mission 31S-341 

CHAPTER  VIII. 
Journey  to  Fort  Colville  and  Return        ....      342-358 

CHAPTER  IX. 
Affairs  at  St.  Mary's  1841-42 359-369 

CHAPTER  X. 

Journey  to  Vancouver  and  the  Willamette  and  Return, 

1842 370-392 

CHAPTER  XI. 
Return  to  St.  Louis  in  Fall  of  1842 393-402 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


VOLUME  I. 

Father  De  Smet's  Autograph  Mileage  Recorb 

Indian  Seminary  near  Florissant 

Buildings  at  the  Florissant  Group 

First  Page  of  Itinerary  from  the  Linton  Album 

Youthful  Portr.\it  of  Father  De  Smet  . 

Father  De  Smet's  Welcome  by  the  Sioux 

St.  Mary's  Mission  among  the  Flatheads 


Frontispiece 

To  face 

page       7 

"       107 

"       147 

"       150 

"       253 

"       316 

VOLUME  II. 

A  Group  of  the  American  Fur  Company  Trading 

Posts Frontispiece 

A  Page  from  the  Letter  Books       ....    To  face  page  650 
Deleg.\tion  of  Indian  Chiefs  in  Oregon  .        .  «      «       «       ^^ 


VOLUME   III. 

Council  with  the  Hostile  Sioux  on  the  Yellow- 
stone River Frontispiece 

Portrait  of  Father  De  Smet  Showing  Leopold 

Decoration To  face  page  839 

Father  De  Smet  Riding  with  the  Indians    .        .      "      "       "       903 

Council  with  the  Hostile  Sioux  on  the  Powder 

River "      "       "       910 

VOLUME   IV. 

Portrait  of  Father  De  Smet Frontispiece 

Statue  of  Father  De  Smet To  face  page  1592 

Map  of  the  Western  Country  Showing  Father 

De  Smet's  Travels In  pocket 

[XV] 


LIFE  OF  FATHER  DE  SMET. 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE   JESUITS   IN   AMERICA. 

Birth  of  Society  of  Jesus  —  Wonderful  growth  and  power  —  Down- 
fall and  restoration  —  Missionary  work  of  Society  in  America  —  Early 
Canadian  missions  —  Insuperable  obstacles  —  Novitiate  at  Whitemarsh 
—  Migration  to  St.  Louis  —  Founding  of  the  Florissant  Novitiate  — 
The  St.  Louis  University  —  Indian  missions  entrusted  to  Jesuits  — 
Field  of  labor  in  Far  West. 

•iCORTY-TWO  years  after  the  discovery  of  America  there 
Jl  arose  in  Europe  a  rehgious  order  destined  to  play  a 
leading  part  in  the  Christianization  of  those  races  which  the 
great  achievement  of  Columbus  made  known  to  the  world. 
This  was  the  Society  of  Jesus,  founded  by  Ignatius  Loyola 
in  1534.  The  chief  purposes  of  its  creation  were  to  stem 
the  swelling  tide  of  Protestantism  in  Europe  and  to  spread 
the  Catholic  faith  among  infidel  peoples  in  every  quarter  of 
the  globe.  Its  chosen  motto,  Ad  major  em  Dei  gloriam^ 
(To  the  greater  glory  of  God),  was  a  fitting  expression  of 
its  exalted  program  for  the  spiritual  regeneration  of  the  race. 
The  career  of  the  Society  in  Europe,  for  two  hundred 
years  after  its  founding,  forms  one  of  the  strangest  and 
most  fascinating  pages  in  the  history  of  Christianity.  Its 
marvelous  organization  made  it  the  most  autocratic  power 
of  its  time,  while  the  severity  of  the  novitiate  through  which 
its  members  had  to  pass  insured  a  loyalty  and  obedience  that 
were  superior  to  every  test.  The  growth  of  the  Society  was 
rapid,  for  it  had  come  into  existence  at  an  opportune  time, 

1  The  monogrammatic  form,  A.  M.  D.  G.,  is  of  universal  use  in 
Jesuitic  practices. 


2  FIRST    JESUIT    WORK    IN    AMERICA. 

when  the  Church  needed  its  powerful  arm  to  extend  her 
sway  and  defend  her  against  her  enemies.  It  became  a 
mighty  power,  guiding  the  destinies  of  European  nations 
and  carrying  its  influence  to  the  uttermost  parts  of  the  earth. 

The  proud  place  which  the  Society  had  acquired  in  the 
temporal  affairs  of  the  world  it  was  destined  not  to  hold,  for 
the  very  greatness  of  its  power  excited  the  jealousy  and 
hostility  of  European  rulers,  who  one  after  another  ex- 
pelled it  from  their  dominions.  Finally,  in  1773,  the  Church 
herself,  yielding  to  the  general  outcry,  decreed  its  total  sup- 
pression, and  it  remained  without  recognized  existence  for 
forty-one  years  thereafter. 

Our  present  inquiries  relate  solely  to  the  missionary  work 
of  the  Society  in  the  western  hemisphere,  particularly  in 
the  western  portion  of  the  United  States.  The  spread  of 
the  gospel  among  heathen  peoples  was  a  fundamental  pur- 
pose of  the  Society.  The  discovery  of  America,  with  its 
vast  but  unknown  population,  offered  a  field  of  labor  which 
from  the  first  was  one  of  great  attractiveness.  The  Jesuits 
came  early  to  America,  and  their  missionary  work  on  this 
continent  has  gone  hand  in  hand  with  exploration  and  set- 
tlement, except  in  the  English  colonies.  They  went  to 
Florida  about  the  time  of  the  founding  of  St.  Augustine, 
but  remained  only  a  few  years.  They  were  in  Mexico  at  a 
very  early  day,  and  in  1697  founded  a  mission  at  Loretto  in 
Lower  California  which  became  the  forerunner  of  the 
famous  missions  of  Upper  California,  established  at  a  later 
date  by  the  Franciscans.  The  Jesuits  themselves  were  not 
permitted  to  carry  out  their  work  in  this  inviting  field.  The 
growing  hostility  to  the  order  in  Europe  led  to  their  ex- 
pulsion from  the  Spanish  dominions  in  1767,  and  on  Feb- 
ruary 3,  1768,  the  Jesuits  in  California  were  all  forcibly  re- 
moved. 

The  principal  work  of  the  Jesuit  missionaries  in  North 
America  was  done  in  Canada  and  the  other  possessions  of 
France.     Previous  to  1629  there  had  been  some  progress 


DEFEATED   BY   CIRCUMSTANCES.  3 

in  missionary  work  in  Acadia  and  along  the  St.  Lawrence; 
but  in  that  year  Quebec  was  captured  by  the  Enghsh,  and 
Cathohc  priests  were  forced  to  leave.  The  conquest  was 
not  a  permanent  one  and  it  w^as  restored  to  France  in  1632. 
Missionary  work  was  thereupon  resumed  and  its  prosecu- 
tion soon  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Jesuits,  who  entered 
upon  it  with  heroic  zeal  and  devotion.  The  missions  of 
New  France  became  exceedingly  popular  in  the  parent  coun- 
try. Men  of  high-born  connections  entered  the  Society  in 
the  hope  that  they  might  be  sent  to  Canada.  Nuns  and 
sisters  of  the  Church  offered  themselves  to  the  work,  while 
the  funds  to  carry  it  on  were  freely  donated  by  all  classes. 

The  missionary  work  of  the  Jesuits  in  New  France  ex- 
tended from  Maine  to  the  Mississippi.  The  principal  fields 
of  labor  w^ere  among  the  Abenakis  in  Maine;  the  Iroquois 
in  New  York;  the  Hurons  in  Ontario;  the  Illinois  in  the 
Mississippi  valley,  and  other  less  important  tribes  scattered 
along  the  way.  The  zeal  and  devotion  of  the  missionaries 
in  all  their  undertakings,  and  the  self-sacrifices  they  under- 
went for  the  sake  of  the  faith,  are  the  bright  spots  in  a  story 
which  is  one  of  uniform  disaster.  There  was  no  faltering 
amid  hardship,  no  yielding  to  discouragement,  no  flinching 
in  the  presence  of  danger;  but  a  complete  extinction  of  all 
personal  considerations  and  a  sublime  devotion  which  looked 
forward  to  martyrdom  as  the  most  welcome  reward  of  all 
their  labors.  Sebastian  Rasles,  Isaac  Jogues,  John  de  Bre- 
beuf,  Gabriel  Lallemant  and  others  are  brilliant  names  in 
the  Jesuit  temple  of  fame. 

In  spite  of  the  zeal  and  herculean  toil  of  the  Jesuits  in 
New  France,  their  work  did  not  prosper.  Causes  beyond 
their  control  baffled  all  their  efforts.  The  Iroquois  de- 
stroyed the  Hurons  and  the  English  gained  control  of  the 
lands  of  the  Iroquois  and  Abenakis.  Traces  of  the  work  of 
the  missionaries  survived,  and  many  proselytes  remained 
true  to  their  new  faith ;  but  the  movement  as  a  whole  did 
not  realize  its  expectations. 

The  same  fate  overtook  the  early  missionary  work  farther 


4  FIRST  NOVITIATE  IN   UNITED  STATES. 

west.  Following  the  discoveries  of  Marquette  and  Joliet 
and  the  enterprises  of  La  Salle  in  the  Mississippi  valley,  the 
zealous  missionary  penetrated  these  new  fields,  undeterred 
by  the  discouragements  which  he  had  already  encountered. 
A  good  beginning  was  made  and  missions  were  planted 
along  the  way  from  the  head  of  Lake  Michigan  to  the  Gulf 
of  Mexico.  Those  in  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi  were 
governed  from  New  Orleans  and  not  from  Canada.  Al- 
though established  with  much  promise  of  success,  the  same 
general  causes  which  had  proven  fatal  to  the  other  missions 
soon  began  to  operate  here.  The  incompatibility  of  the 
Indian  nature  with  the  new  order  of  life,  the  constant  clash- 
ing of  hostile  tribes  with  one  another,  the  irresistible  prog- 
ress of  the  English,  which  finally  drove  France  from  the 
soil  of  North  America,  were  all  against  the  success  of  the 
missions.  To  crown  the  difficulties  with  which  they  were 
contending,  the  Jesuits  presently  found  themselves  without 
an  existence,  cast  out  by  the  nations  of  Europe  and  deserted 
by  the  mother  Church.  Before  their  restoration  a  new 
nation  had  arisen  on  the  soil  where  much  of  their  toil  had 
been  expended,  and  had  won  a  boundless  expanse  of  terri- 
tory beyond  the  Mississippi.  It  was  in  this  newly-acquired 
empire  that  the  Jesuits  were  to  find  their  next  important 
field  of  labor. 

During  the  forty-one  years  of  its  suppression  the  members 
of  the  Society  kept  in  touch  with  one  another,  working 
largely  in  the  ranks  of  the  secular  clergy.  Most  of  those 
who  were  living  in  1773  died  before  the  restoration,  but 
nevertheless  the  elements  of  life  were  kept  up,  and,  as  old 
causes  of  enmity  became  forgotten  and  ancient  prejudices 
were  softened  away,  the  Society  won  back  the  favor  of 
European  nations  and  was  reinstated  by  the  Pope  in  18 14. 

At  this  time  there  were  a  few  old  Jesuit  priests  at  White- 
marsh  in  Maryland  v/ho  founded  there  the  first  novitiate  of 
the  Society  in  the  United  States.  About  1820  the  affairs 
of  this  establishment  were  in  a  precarious  condition  from 
lack  of  funds  and  an  abandonment  or  removal  seemed  un- 


FOUNDING    OF    THE    WESTERN    BRANCH.  5 

avoidable;  when,  in  1823,  at  the  suggestion  of  John  C.  Cal- 
houn, Secretary  of  War,  the  Right  Reverend  Du  Bourg, 
Bishop  of  Louisiana,  proposed  to  Father  Van  Quickenborne, 
Master  of  Novices,  that  he  would  be  given  a  tract  of  land 
near  St.  Louis  if  he  would  establish  a  novitiate  there.  The 
offer  was  gladly  accepted  and  steps  were  at  once  taken  to 
carry  it  into  effect. 

In  the  company  of  twelve  who  set  out  on  the  long  journey 
from  the  Chesapeake  to  the  Mississippi  was  a  youth  named 
De  Smet,  the  subject  of  the  present  sketch.  The  date  of  de- 
parture, April  1 1,  1823,  is  a  notable  one  in  the  history  of  the 
Catholic  Church  in  the  United  States,  and  the  journey  was 
thoroughly  characteristic  of  the  pioneer  times  in  which  it  was 
made.  Two  large  wagons  were  hired  to  convey  the  heavier 
articles  from  Baltimore  to  the  Ohio  river,  and  a  light  spring 
wagon  for  the  smaller  articles.  As  to  the  travelers  them- 
selves, they  had  no  other  transportation  than  that  which 
nature  had  provided  them,  and  they  made  the  entire  dis- 
tance "  pcdibus  apostolorum,  staff  in  hand,"  as  Father  De 
Smet  puts  it.  The  journey  was  full  of  interest  in  spite  of 
its  genuine  hardship  at  that  season  of  the  year.  The  route 
lay  wholly  through  Protestant  communities  and  most  of  the 
people  had  doubtless  never  seen  a  priest  before.  They 
imagined  the  black-gowns  to  be  a  band  of  adventurers,  seek- 
ing their  fortune,  and  they  frequently  besought  them  to  re- 
main. The  same  petition  with  different  motives  came  from 
the  few  Catholics  they  met,  who  were  longing  for  the  ser- 
vices of  a  priest. 

At  Wheeling  on  the  Ohio  the  travelers  purchased  tv;o 
flatboats  with  the  intention  of  making  the  descent  of  the 
river  by  water.  The  boats  were  lashed  together  into  a 
single  craft,  and  in  this  manner  the  little  party  made  its 
way,  borne  by  the  current,  between  shores  which  were  then 
in  their  natural  wildness  and  beauty.  At  Louisville  they 
portaged  their  baggage  around  the  Falls  and  sent  the  emnty 
boat  over  them  in  charge  of  a  pilot.  They  then  continued 
their  voyage  to  Shawneetown,  Illinois,  where  the  old  over- 


6  THE    BEGINNINGS  IN    MISSOURI. 

land  route  from  Louisville  to  St.  Louis  crossed  the  river. 
Here  they  debarked,  disposed  of  their  boats,  sent  most  of 
their  baggage  by  steamboat  to  St.  Louis,  and  themselves 
started  on  foot  across  the  country.  It  was  still  early  in  the 
spring,  the  ground  was  soaked  with  rain  and  in  many  places 
covered  deep  with  water.  Houses  were  few  and  far  be- 
tween, and  in  their  absence  barns  and  outhouses  were  their 
only  shelter.  It  was  a  rough  and  trying  journey  and  they 
were  well-nigh  exhausted  when,  on  the  last  day  of  May, 
they  found  themselves  on  the  east  shore  of  the  Mississippi 
opposite  the  city  of  St.  Louis.  Crossing  the  river  they 
reached  their  destination  in  the  future  metropolis  of  the 
Mississippi  valley.  For  the  present,  however,  they  were  not 
to  remain  there,  but  to  go  on  some  fifteen  miles  farther  to 
the  little  village  of  Florissant,  in  St.  Ferdinand  township, 
where  they  were  to  found  the  second  novitiate  of  the  Society 
of  Jesus  in  the  United  States. 

The  new  home  of  the  young  novices  lay  directly  north 
of  St.  Louis  not  far  from  the  Missouri  river.  It  was  a 
beautiful  spot,  typical  of  the  attractive  rural  scenery  in  the 
environs  of  the  city.  It  had  formerly  been  the  country- 
seat  of  one  of  the  Spanish  governors  of  upper  Louisiana. 
Here  the  little  company  from  Whitemarsh  fell  to  work  in 
earnest,  conscious  that  they  were  laying  the  foundation 
of  a  great  institution  in  the  religious  and  educational 
growth  of  their  city  and  the  surrounding  country.  It  was 
truly  an  humble  beginning  for  these  young  men,  all  of 
whom  had  given  up  homes  of  comfort  and  the  promise 
of  successful  careers  in  their  native  land  in  order  to  devote 
their  lives  to  the  greater  glory  of  God.  "  It  is  at  such 
times,"  to  quote  Father  De  Smet  on  another  occasion, 
""  that  one  feels  the  full  weight  *  *  *  Qf  ^j^g  sacrifice 
he  makes  in  a  good  and  holy  cause."  They  must  have 
felt  this  as  they  took  up  their  abode  in  a  rude  log  struc- 
ture, in  the  low  loft  of  which  seven  of  their  number  were 
crowded  together  on  pallets  of  straw  in  a  single  room. 
The  lower  room  was  divided  by  a  curtain  into  two  parts, 


THE    ST.    LOUIS    UNIVERSITY.  7 

in  one  of  which  Father  Van  Quickenborne  and  a  com- 
panion Hved,  the  other  being  used  for  a  chapel.  Two 
small  log  cabins  completed  the  list  of  buildings  from 
which  the  now  splendid  St.  Louis  University  took  its  rise. 
These  buildings  were  enlarged  as  rapidly  as  possible,  the 
manual  labor  being  done  by  the  novices  themselves. 

After  a  time  schools  were  opened  for  Indian  children,  this 
being  an  important  part  of  the  missionary  work  of  the  So- 
ciety. These  schools,  however,  as  has  so  often  been  the 
case,  did  not  thrive  as  they  had  been  expected  to  do.  The 
wild  nature  of  the  Indian  was  ill  adapted  to  that  kind  of 
life,  and  it  is  proof  of  the  high  sagacity  of  Father  Van 
Quickenborne  that  he  early  recognized  the  wisdom  of  not 
building  all  his  plans  on  so  precarious  a  foundation.  Al- 
though the  good  father  and  his  companions  had  dedicated 
their  lives  to  the  spiritual  and  temporal  welfare  of  the 
Indians,  they  soon  became  convinced  "  that  no  great  or 
permanent  results  could  ever  be  accomplished  among  the 
indolent,  wandering  and  indocile  aborigines  of  the  woods 
and  prairie  which  would  at  all  compensate  for  sacrificing 
all  their  energies  and  resources  in  exclusive  attention  to 
the  savages.  They  came  to  the  conclusion,  therefore,  that 
more  solid  and  lasting  good  might  be  done  among  the 
white  population  than  with  the  well-nigh  indomitable 
redmen."^  Without  abandoning  any  of  their  missionary 
purposes  among  the  Indians,  they  resolved  to  found  an 
institution  of  learning  to  meet  the  growing  wants  of  a 
great  center  of  population  in  which  the  proportion  of 
Catholics  was  certain  to  be  large.  The  conception  rapidly 
developed  into  a  concrete  result.  A  suitable  building  was 
erected  in  the  city  of  St.  Louis  and  the  reception  of  stu- 
dents began  in  the  fall  of  1829.  Father  P.  J.  Verhaegen, 
one  of  the  seven  novices  from  Whitemarsh  but  now  an 
ordained  priest,  was  made  first  president,  and  Father  De 
Smet  was  a  member  of  the  faculty. 

The  Jesuits  in  St.  Louis  were  now  fairly  well  equipped 

^History  of  the  St.  Louis  University,  p.  36. 


8  THE    WESTERN.  INDIAN    FIELD. 

for  effective  work  except  in  the  matter  of  numbers.  These 
could  be  had  only  through  the  slow  process  of  the  novitiate 
or  by  recruits  from  Europe;  but  as  the  latter  were  gen- 
erally themselves  novices,  the  growth  in  numbers  in  early 
times  was  very  slow. 

In  1 83 1  the  Missouri  Mission,  which  had  heretofore 
been  a  dependency  of  the  Province  of  Maryland,  was  made 
an  independent  mission.  In  1833,  October  27,  the  second 
Provincial  Council  of  Baltimore  petitioned  that  the  Indian 
missions  of  the  United  States  be  confided  to  the  Society 
of  Jesus.  The  petition  was  favorably  acted  upon  at  Rome 
July  26,  1834,  and  the  Society  was  now  about  to  enter 
upon  the  last  virgin  field  of  its  labors,  the  vast  region, 
still  almost  unknown,  which  was  then  and  is  now  known 
as  the  Far  West. 

This  region,  comprising  more  than  half  the  area  of  the 
United  States,  was  still  the  home  of  native  tribes  who  were 
just  beginning  to  be  acquainted  with  the  white  man 
through  intercourse  with  the  traders.  In  some  portions 
of  the  nearer  territory,  along  the  lower  Missouri,  were  a 
few  tribes,  remnants  of  the  great  nations  that  had  once 
held  sway  east  of  the  Mississippi,  but  had  been  crowded 
from  their  homes  by  the  resistless  pressure  of  settlement; 
but  for  the  most  part  the  tribes  were  new  to  the  mis- 
sionary and  he  was  entering  an  unbroken  field.  The  more 
important  of  these  tribes,  beginning  in  the  lower  valley  of 
the  Missouri,  were  the  Osages,  the  Kansas,  the  Omahas, 
the  Pawnees,  the  Sioux  nations,  the  Aricaras,  the  Man- 
dans,  the  Grosventres  of  the  Missouri,  the  Assiniboins, 
the  Crows,  the  Blackfeet,  including  the  Grosventres  of  the 
Prairies,  the  Shoshones  with  their  manifold  subdivisions, 
the  Flatheads,  Nez  Perces,  and  other  tribes  of  the  upper 
Columbia  valley,  and  finally  the  almost  numberless  and 
nameless  tribes  of  the  Pacific  Coast.  It  was  into  this  vast 
field  that  the  Jesuits  of  St.  Louis  were  about  to  enter,  un- 
der the  leadership  of  the  greatest  and  most  practical  mis- 
sionary who  has  ever  labored  among  the  Indian  tribes  of 
the  United  States. 


CHAPTER  11. 

EARLY    LIFE   OF   FATHER  DE  SMET. 

Ancestry-  and  youth  —  Choice  of  missionary  career  —  Leaves  Belgium 
for  America  —  Enters  Whitemarsh  Novitiate — Goes  to  St.  Louis  — 
Helps  found  Novitiate  and  University  —  Returns  to  Europe  —  Sends 
contributions  to  University  —  Returns  to  America  —  Goes  to  Council 
Bluffs  —  Work  at  the  Potawatomi  Mission  —  Visits  the  Sioux  Country 
—  Describes  evils  of  liquor  traffic  among  the  Indians. 

nVIERRE-JEAN  DE  SMET  was  born  in  the  village  of 
IIV  Termonde,  Belgium,  at  the  very  beginning  of  the 
19th  century.^  His  family,  which  has  been  traced  back  to 
the  beginning  of  the  17th  century,  was  one  of  the  most  re- 
spectable in  Belgium,  and  the  young  De  Smet  came  into  the 
world  in  circumstances  that  assured  him  a  satisfactory  be- 
ginning in  life.  The  parents,  too,  found  in  their  off- 
spring all  the  promise  which  they  could  well  desire.  He 
was  a  well-formed,  healthy,  and  handsome  child,  and  as 

1  Entry  in  the  baptismal  register  of  the  Church  of  the  Blessed  Virgin 
Mary  of  Termonde,  copied  by  C.  L.  Tede,  the  present  dean  or  chief 
pastor,  1902. 

"  In  the  year  1801  on  the  30th  day  of  the  month  of  January,  I  bap- 
tized Pierre-Jean,  born  this  morning  at  about  five  o'clock,  and  Coleta 
Aldegunda,  born  at  a  quarter  after  five,  twin  children  of  Judocus 
De  Smet  of  this  parish  and  Joanna  Maria  Buydens,  of  this  parish,  his 
wife;  the  sponsors  were  John  Baptiste  Kollier  of  Smerrebe  and  Coleta 
De  Saeger  of  Botteliere. 

(Signed)     J.  C.  Ringoot,  Pastor  of  B.  V.  M.  of  Termonde." 

The  father  of  Father  De  Smet  was  Josse-Arnaud  De  Smet,  born  April 
28,  1738,  and  died  February  15,  1827;  was  twice  married  —  first  to 
Jeanne-Marie  Duerinck,  by  whom  he  had  six  children ;  and  second,  to 
Marie-Jeanne  Buydens  by  whom  he  had  nine  children,  Pierre-Jean  being 
the  fifth.  Two  of  his  brothers,  Charles  and  Francis,  grew  to  adult 
years,  and  both  were  men  of  character  and  distinction  in  their  native 
land. 

[9] 


lO  FORMATIVE    INFLUENCES. 

his  mental  and  spiritual  faculties  began  to  develop,  they 
were  in  harmony  with  his  physical  qualities.  His  early 
years  were  spent  at  his  parents'  home,  but  when  he  became 
old  enough  to  take  up  the  more  serious  educational  work 
of  youth,  he  was  sent  to  the  Seminary  of  Malines  where 
he  remained  until  his  twenty-first  year. 

In  school,  the  young  De  Smet  was  a  distinguished  pupil, 
and  in  particular  exhibited  those  solid  qualities  of  tact  and 
common  sense  which  did  him  such  great  service  in  after 
years.  He  was  also  noted  for  his  great  physical  strength 
and  skill  in  youthful  sports.  So  prominent  was  his  supe- 
riority in  these  respects  that  his  school-fellows  gave  him 
the  nick-name  of  Samson. 

These  qualities  of  body  and  mind  were  associated  with 
a  fervent  and  sentimental  nature,  and  the  course  of  events 
at  this  time  was  such  as  naturally  to  turn  his  mind  to  a  re- 
ligious career.  The  Church  was  strong  in  Flanders  and 
young  De  Smet's  youth  was  spent  in  a  religious  atmos- 
phere. The  fiery  ordeal  of  the  French  Revolution  was  past 
and  the  natural  reaction  led  men  to  look  with  renewed  favor 
upon  the  ancient  church  which  had  stood  unscathed  the 
tempests  of  that  fierce  time.  It  was  also  about  the  time  when 
De  Smet  entered  the  seminary  that  the  Jesuit  Society  was 
restored.  Whatever  the  particular  influences,  it  is  appar- 
ent that  while  yet  at  the  seminary,  De  Smet  had  made  up 
his  mind  to  follow  a  religious  life,  and  probably  to  enter 
the  Society  of  Jesus.  He  had  also  formed  a  purpose  of  be- 
coming a  missionary  and  would  naturally  turn  to  the  re- 
ligious order  whose  principal  purpose  was  that  kind  of  work. 

De  Smet  was  near  the  close  of  his  seminary  career  when 
an  event  occurred  that  solved  all  doubts  and  settled  the 
young  student  definitely  in  his  future  career.  Father 
Charles  Nerinckx,  a  native  of  Brabant,  whom  the  events  of 
the  French  Revolution  had  driven  across  the  sea.  and 
who  had  then  become  a  zealous  missionary,  appeared  in 
Belgium  at  this  time  in  quest  of  funds  and  recruits.     His 


THE    LIFE-WORK    CHOSEN.  IT 

vivid  pictures  of  the  untilled  field  in  the  New  World  and 
his  fervent  appeal  for  workers  roused  the  enthusiasm  of 
the  young  students  at  Malines  and  six  of  their  number, 
among-  them  De  Smet,  volunteered  to  go.^ 

The  deep  meaning  of  a  decision  like  this  it  is  not  easy 
now  to  appreciate.  It  was  not  simply  the  giving  up  of 
the  natural  pursuits  and  pleasures  of  life  to  follow  a  re- 
ligious career,  but  it  meant  practical  expatriation  and  a 
literal  exchange  of  the  pleasures  of  civilization  for  a  Hfe 
among  barbarous  people.  It  required  an  open  and  un- 
selfish nature,  and  an  abundant  fund  of  spiritual  faith  to 
take  the  step.  It  was  literally  following  the  injunction 
of  the  divine  Teacher  —  "  Sell  that  thou  hast  and  *  *  * 
follow  me." 

Van  Assche  seems  to  have  been  the  first  of  the  young 
men  to  decide  to  go  to  America.  Imparting  his  plan  to 
his  schoolmate  Elet  the  latter  also  determined  to  go. 
John  B.  Smedts  was  the  next  recruit  and  then  followed 
De  Smet,  Verreydt  and  Verhaegen.  It  was  an  exceptional 
group  of  young  men  in  more  ways  than  one,  and  their 
subsequent  careers  were  in  a  high  degree  creditable  to 
themselves,  their  Society,  and  their  native  and  adopted 
countries.  In  nothing  is  their  high  character  better 
shown  than  in  this  early  decision  as  to  their  life  work. 
In  one  case,  at  least,  that  of  De  Smet,  and  probably  in 
others,  the  step  was  contrary  to  parental  counsel.  The 
young  men  were  even  compelled  to  pawn  their  personal 
belongings  to  raise  the  necessary  funds  for  the  journey, 
and  the  w^ay  in  which  they  rendezvoused  on  the  Island 
of  Texel  before  embarking  does  not  indicate  any  joyous 
Godspeed  on  the  part  of  the  friends  behind. 

The  decision  once  made,  preparations  for  carrying  it 
into  effect  swiftly  followed.  The  little  band  presently 
found  themselves  on  board  the  brig  Columbus  at  the  Island 

2  Felix  Verreydt,  Judocus  Van  Assche.  Pierre  J.  Verhaegen,  Jean 
Smedts,  Jean  Elet,  and  Pierre- Jean  De  Smet. 


12  NOVITIATE    AND    ORDINATION. 

of  Texel  in  July,  1821,  en  route  for  America.  The  voyage 
was  a  prosperous  one,  though  slow,  for  steamboats  had 
not  yet  crossed  the  ocean,  and  it  took  forty  days  to  reach 
Philadelphia.  Here,  we  are  told,  young  De  Smet  was 
greatly  surprised  to  find  good  buildings,  as  all  his  mental 
pictures  of  the  America  to  which  he  was  going  were  of  an 
untamed  wilderness,  the  home  of  wild  Indians.  But  if  he 
was  astonished  to  find  himself  in  a  well-settled  and  highly- 
civilized  country,  the  time  was  to  come  when  he  should 
find  wilderness  enough  to  satisfy  him. 

The  young  men  visited  Baltimore,  Washington  and 
Georgetown  and  finally  entered  the  Jesuit  novitiate  at 
Whitemarsh  to  commence  their  long  career  as  novices. 
We  have  related  how  a  second  novitiate  came  to  be  estab- 
lished at  Florissant  near  St.  Louis,  and  how,  in  some- 
thing less  than  two  years  after  their  arrival  in  America, 
De  Smet  and  his  companions  found  themselves  on  the 
western  shore  of  the  Mississippi. 

The  years  that  followed  before  the  end  of  De  Smet's 
novitiate?  were  naturally  void  of  much  interest,  for  the 
kind  of  Hfe  that  the  novices  led  offered  little  of  excitement 
or  unusual  occurrence.  The  young  student  bore  his  full 
share  in  the  work  of  the  novitiate,  helped  erect  the  build- 
ings, and  was  particularly  relied  upon  in  getting  out  the 
timber  for  the  work.  His  great  physical  strength  and 
restless  energy  won  for  him  a  fame  which  survives  to 
this  day  and  doubtless  has  assumed  something  of  an 
apocryphal  character.  It  was  said  that  he  accomplished 
three  times  as  much  work  in  a  given  time  as  any  of  his 
associates,  and  that  he  was  always  called  upon  when  it 
was  a  question  of  cutting  large  trees,  carrying  heavy  loads, 
etc.  He  was  first  at  his  task  and  last  to  leave,  and  in 
whatever  of  manual  toil  presented  itself  he  did  more  than 
his  full  share. 

In  his  studies  likewise  he  made  good  progress,  and  he 
was  one  of  the  first  teachers  in  the  new  university.  He 
finished  his  novitiate  and  was  ordained  priest  in  1827  and 


A    EUROPEAN    SOJOURN.  I3 

we  shall  henceforth  give  him  the  title  by  which  he  is 
universally  known.  Father  De  Smet. 

At  this  time  Father  De  Smet  was  a  man  of  unusual 
attractiveness  in  his  personal  appearance.  His  face  was 
full  and  frank  in  its  expression,  beaming  with  the  natural 
buoyancy  and  good  humor  of  his  temperament.  His 
stature  was  rather  short  for  his  otherwise  heavy  build  and 
gave  him  an  appearance  of  greater  corpulency  than  he 
really  possessed.  In  his  full  maturity  his  weight  was  above 
two  hundred  pounds.  With  advancing  years  the  dignity 
of  manhood's  estate  and  the  venerable  figure  of  age  be- 
came him  well,  and  he  was  always  noted  for  his  command- 
ing presence  nO'  less  than  for  his  mild  and  benevolent 
manner.^ 

In  1833  Father  De  Smet's  health  was  in  bad  condition 
from  some  cause,  and  he  was  permitted  to  visit  Europe. 
He  was  also  charged  with  business  for  the  Society,  the 
particular  purpose  being  to  procure  recruits  for  the  work, 
and  funds,  instruments,  books  and  other  things  for  the 
new  university.  It  has  been  stated  that  he  contemplated 
never  returning  to  the  United  States,  but  this  is  evidently 
not  so.  Besides  his  own  recorded  statement  that  he  went 
abroad  on  business  for  the  Society  and  for  the  benefit  of 
his  health,  the  fact  that  he  took  out  his  final  naturaliza- 
tion papers  and  became  a  citizen  of  the  United  States^  just 
before  starting  on  his  voyage,  effectually  negatives  any 
such  supposition. 

Father  De  Smet  reached  Europe  late  in  the  year  1833 
and  went  directly  to  his  old  home  in  Termonde.  He  re- 
mained in  Belgium  during  the  greater  part  of  1834  and 
succeeded  in  getting  three  recruits  and  an  important  outfit 
of  instruments  for  the  university.     He  then  embarked  at 

'  Passport,  signed  by  William  H.  Seward,  October  17,  1864,  gives  the 
following  description :  Age,  sixty-four ;  stature,  five  feet  seven ;  fore- 
head, ordinary;  eyes,  blue;  nose,  ordinary;  mouth,  middle  size;  chin, 
round ;  hair,  gray ;  complexion,  natural ;  face,  full. 

*  September  2S,  1833. 


14  BEGINNING    OF    MISSIONARY    CAREER. 

Antwerp  to  return  to  America,  but  during  the  passage  of 
the  North  Sea  he  was  taken  violently  ill,  and  the  physician 
advised  him  not  to  continue  the  voyage.  He  accordingly 
landed  at  Deal  in  England  and  returned  to  Termonde. 
He  arranged  to  have  the  instruments  sent  on  without  him 
and  they  were  received  at  the  university  March  7,   1835.'^ 

Father  De  Smet  now  remained  two  years  in  Europe  de- 
voting his  time  to  the  procurement  of  funds  and  recruits 
for  the  missions  and  a  further  equipment  for  the  univer- 
sity. During  this  period*  he  sent  to  St.  Louis  several 
thousand  volumes  of  books  and  a  large  number  of  fine 
church  pictures.  In  1837  he  set  out  for  America  with 
three  candidates  for  the  priesthood  and  reached  St.  Louis 
after  an  absence  of  four  years. 

The  time  had  now  arrived  when  Father  De  Smet  was 
to  take  up  in  earnest  the  great  work  of  his  life.  In  the 
spring  of  1838  he  was  sent  with  Father  Verreydt  and  two 
lay  brothers  to  found  a  mission  among  the  Potawatomies, 
a  piirt  of  whom  were  then  located  about  where  the  city 
of  Council  Bluffs,  Iowa,  now  stands.  There  were  also 
several  other  tribes  or  bands  of  Indians  in  the  same  vicin- 

^  "  Whilst  he  was  absent  in  Europe,  and  after  his  donations  were 
received,  the  trustees  of  the  university  entered  on  their  records  the 
following  honorable  tribute  to  him  as  a  benefactor : — 

"  '  Whereas  the  board  and  faculty  of  the  St.  Louis  University  are 
highly  indebted  to  the  liberality  and  exertions  of  the  Rev.  P.  J.  De 
Smet,  for  the  splendid  apparatus  of  physical  and  chymical  instruments 
received  at  the  university  on  the  7th  of  March,  1834; 

" '  Resolved,  that,  besides  the  special  thanks  already  tendered  by  the 
board  and  faculty  of  the  St.  Louis  University  to  said  Rev.  P.  J.  De 
Smet  on  receipt  of  the  above-mentioned  apparatus  of  physical  and 
chymical  instruments,  the  register  of  the  contributions  to  the  Museum 
of  St.  Louis  University  be  opened  with  a  copy  of  this  resolution,  and 
his  name  be  placed  at  the  head  of  the  list  of  contributors  to  the 
museum. 

P.   J.  Verhaegen. 

James  Van  de  Velde,  Secretary. 

St.  Louis  University,  Sept.  5,  1836.'  " 

(Historical  sketch  of  St.  Louis  University,  by  Father  Walter  H.  Hill, 
S.  J.,  p.  58.) 


THE    FIRST    POTAWATOMI    MISSION.  1 5 

ity,  some  of  whom,  like  the  Potavvatomies,  were  remnants 
of  eastern  tribes  transferred  to  new  lands  west  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi. It  was  considered  an  inviting  and  important 
field  of  labor. 

Father  De  Smet  left  St.  Louis  by  the  steamboat  Hozvard 
May  10,  1838,  in  company  with  the  Father  Superior,  who 
wanted  to  visit  the  Kickapoo  Indians  near  Fort  Leaven- 
worth. The  rest  of  the  party  were  to  follow  a  few  days 
later  by  another  boat.  After  a  brief  delay  at  Leavenworth 
Father  De  Smet  bade  good-bye  to  the  Father  Superior 
and  joined  his  companions  on  the  Wilmington.  They 
arrived  at  the  site  of  the  proposed  mission  on  the  31st 
of  May. 

The  outlook  was  discouraging.  There  were  Indians 
enough,  but  instead  of  being  eager  for  missionaries,  as 
had  been  represented,  they  seemed  wholly  indifferent. 
Nevertheless  the  fathers  set  vigorously  to  work  and  in  a 
short  time  began  to  arouse  an  interest  among  the  Indians. 
They  seem  to  have  first  occupied  an  abandoned  fort 
turned  over  to  them  by  Colonel  S.  W.  Kearny;  but  Father 
De  Smet  says  that  they  also  erected  a  small  house.  The 
mission  was  named  St.  Joseph,  although  it  has  been  more 
frequently  referred  to  as  St.  Mary.®    It  was  located  within 

^  "Nous  erigeames  une  residence  et  une  petite  eglise  en  bois  (i 
I'honneur  de  St.  Joseph."  De  Smet  Letter,  Book  IV,  p.  133.  Shea 
{Catholic  Missions,  p.  462),  says  that  the  new  church  was  built  under 
the  protection  of  the  Blessed  Virgin  and  St.  Joseph.  This  last  state- 
ment may  account  for  the  confusion  as  to  the  proper  name  of  this 
mission. 

St.  Joseph's  Mission  at  Council  Bluffs  seems  to  have  been  main- 
tained for  only  three  or  four  years.  Father  De  Smet  mentions  it  when 
he  passed  there  in  1840,  but  not  in  1842  nor  in  1846.  In  1838  Father 
De  Smet  founded  another  mission  among  a  band  of  Potawatomies, 
recently  arrived  from  east  of  the  Mississippi.  ThJs  mission  was  on 
Sugar  Creek,  a  tributary  of  the  Osage  on  the  south,  and  seventeen  miles 
west  of  the  Kansas-Missouri  line.  In  1847  and  1848  the  Potawatomies 
were  moved  to  the  banks  of  the  Kansas  river  and  a  new  mission  was 
started  there  September  9,  1848.  It  became  one  of  the  most  important 
and  influential  of  the  Indian  missions  and  was  frequently  visited  by 
Father  De  Smet,  who  took  a  deep  interest  in  its  welfare. 


l6  PEACEMAKER    AND    WRITER. 

the  present  city  limits  of  Council  Bluffs,  Iowa.  Father 
De  Smet,  who  put  a  cross  on  the  roof  of  the  church,  wit- 
tily relates  that  when  he  "  cHmbed  the  ladder  to  put  it  in 
place  *  *  *  Father  Felix  [Verreydt]  beheld  the 
devil  clap  his  tail  between  his  legs  and  take  flight  over 
the  big  hills." 

In  the  year  1839  Father  De  Smet  made  an  excursion  to 
the  Sioux  post  at  the  mouth  of  Vermillion  river,  a  short 
distance  above  where  Sioux  City  now  stands.  He  left  the 
mission  April  29  by  the  American  Fur  Company  steamboat 
St.  Peters,'^  and  returned  about  the  middle  of  May  by  canoe. 
The  purpose  of  Father  De  Smet's  mission  to  the  Sioux  at 
this  time  was  to  bring  about  peace  between  them  and  the 
Potawatomies.  It  was  the  first  of  many  similar  excursions 
in  which  he  went,  comparatively  alone  and  unprotected, 
among  Indians  whose  friendship  was  doubtful. 

The  Potawatomi  mission  at  Council  Bluffs  is  of  particular 
interest  in  this  narrative,  not  so  much  for  the  results  that  it 
accomplished,  as  because  it  reveals  at  this  early  date  the 
full  character  of  Father  De  Smet  as  an  Indian  missionary. 
It  was  here  that  he  began  that  famous  series  of  letters  which 
have  made  his  name  well  known  throughout  the  world.  A 
few  of  those  written  at  St.  Joseph  Mission  have  already 
been  published ;  but  the  most  interesting  and  important  are 
now  given  out  for  the  first  time.  They  were  probably  not 
intended  for  publication,  for  they  lack  something  of  the 
clerical  dignity  in  which  the  writer  then  doubtless  thought 
that  he  ought  to  appear  in  public ;  but  they  are  all  the  better 
for  the  omission  and  are  equal,  in  force  of  expression,  to 
anything  he  afterward  produced.  No  more  racy  narrative  is 
to  be  found  in  the  pioneer  literature  of  the  period  than  the 
account  of  the  voyage  on  the  Wilmiugfon  from  Fort  Leav- 
enworth to  St.  Joseph  Mission  in  1838 ;  while  the  journal  of 
1839,  copied  in  a  letter  written  in  December  of  that  year, 

■7  On  the  St.  Peters  was  a  Government  exploring  party  under  the 
celebrated  geographer  Jean  N.  Nicollet,  whom  Father  De  Smet  knew 
well. 


THE    INDIAN    LIQUOR    TRAFFIC.  I7 

is  of  genuine  historic  value  as  a  living  picture  of  the  state 
of  things  among  the  frontier  tribes  at  that  time.  A  jingle 
example  will  serve  to  show  the  fresh  and  vigorous  manner 
in  which  the  young  missionary  dealt  with  subjects  that  fell 
under  his  observation.  Speaking  of  the  liquor  traffic,  which 
never  failed  to  arouse  his  indignation,  he  writes :  "A  war 
of  extermination  appears  preparing  around  the  poor  Pota- 
watomies.  Fifty  large  cannons  have  been  landed  ready 
charged  with  the  most  murderous  grape  shot,  each  contain- 
ing thirty  gallons  of  whiskey,  brandy,  rum  or  alcohol.  The 
boat  was  not  as  yet  out  of  sight  when  the  skirmishing  com- 
menced. After  the  fourth,  fifth  and  sixth  rounds,  the  con- 
fusion became  great  and  appalling.  In  all  directions  men, 
women  and  children  were  seen  tottering  and  falling;  the 
war-whoop,  the  merry  Indian  song,  cries,  savage  roarings, 
formed  a  hideous  medley.  Quarrel  succeeded  quarrel ;  blow 
followed  blow.  The  club,  the  tomahawk,  spears,  butcher 
knives,  brandished  together  in  the  air.  Strange!  astonish- 
ing! only  one  man,  in  this  dreadful  affray,  was  lost  — 
drowned  in  the  Missouri.  Another  was  severely  stabbed 
and  several  noses  were  lost." 

Father  De  Smet  pictures  what  he  saw  in  unvarnished 
colors.  In  particular  he  portrayed  the  evils  of  the  abomi- 
nable liquor  traffic  in  a  more  forcible  light  than  had  ever 
been  done  before.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  his  trenchant 
and  scathing  denunciations  of  this  crime  were  not  made 
public  at  the  time.  His  published  letters  were  carefully 
pruned  by  his  superiors  of  whatever  savored  too  much  of 
hostile  criticism  of  the  Government.  He  states  that  he  wrote 
to  the  department  on  the  subject,  but  the  letter  is  not  among 
his  retained  copies.  If  his  accounts  are  true,  and  there  is  no 
reason  to  doubt  it,  these  letters  stand  as  a  perpetual  indict- 
ment against  the  Government  for  having  permitted  this 
hideous  tragedy  to  be  enacted  within  its  territory. 

The  experience  was  a  new  one  to  Father  De  Smet,  and  it 
was  his  first  real  contact  with  the  race  to  whose  spiritual 
welfare  he  had  dedicated  his  life  work.  It  is  plain  to  see 
2 


l8  DISCOURAGEMENTS. 

that  his  first  impression  was  a  dubious  one.  The  revolting 
uncleanness,  the  lack  of  energy  in  work,  the  love  of  whiskey 
and  debauchery,  and  the  impenetrability  of  the  Indian  mind 
to  the  abstract  notions  of  religion,  all  made  the  prospect 
seem  anything  but  flattering.  He  saw  in  their  full  force  the 
great  obstacles  that  were  always  to  be  encountered  in  the 
attempt  to  improve  the  condition  of  the  Indian,  particularly 
where  he  had  come  into  contact  with  the  white  man.  The 
weakness  of  the  Indian  in  the  presence  of  temptation,  and 
the  greed  of  the  white  man,  which  was  always  placing  temp- 
tation in  his  way,  were  everywhere  in  constant  evidence. 
Nowhere  in  our  Indian  literature  is  there  to  be  found  a  more 
graphic  and  faithful  picture  of  the  wrongs  which  the  Indian 
suffered  in  the  inevitable  displacement  of  his  race  by  the 
whites,  than  in  these  few  fragmentary  notes  written  at  the 
St.  Joseph  mission  of  the  Potawatomies. 


CHAPTER  III. 

A  ROMANCE  OF  AN  INDIAN  MISSION. 

Nez  Perce  and  Flathead  Indians  —  The  Iroquois  among  the  Flat- 
heads  —  Deputation  of  1831  to  St.  Louis  —  Fact  and  fiction  concerning 
same  —  The  mythical  oration  —  Its  far-reaching  influence  —  The 
Protestants  send  missionaries  to  Oregon  —  New  deputation  from  the 
Flatheads  —  The  Jesuits  decide  to  respond. 

'^'HE  Indian  tribes  in  what  is  now  western  Montana, 
^^  northern  Idaho,  and  eastern  Washington  were  a  pe- 
culiar people  in  the  matter  of  their  susceptibility  to  religious 
influences.  Especially  true  was  this  of  the  Flatheads  and 
Nez  Perces  (Pierced  Noses)/  the  only  Indians  who,  of  their 
own  volition  and  without  ever  having  seen  a  priest,  have 
sought  the  services  of  missionaries.  They  were  naturally 
of  a  turn  of  mind  that  was  easily  moved  by  religious  teach- 
ings, and  were  relatively  high  in  the  scale  of  morality  as 
measured  by  the  Indian  standard. 

As  early  asi8iiori8i2  the  traders  of  the  Northwest  and 
Pacific  Fur  Companies  were  among  them,  and  their  territory 
remained  a  fruitful  field  in  the  fur  trade  until  settlement 
took  possession  of  the  country.  The  rank  and  file  of  the 
trapping  fraternity  were  made  up  of  Canadian  half-breeds 
who,  in  spite  of  their  lawless  and  irreligious  lives,  were 
staunch  Roman  Catholics.  With  them,  strange  to  say,  were 
many  Iroquois,  children  of  the  tribe  who  had  shut  their 
doors  to  the  missionaries  a  hundred  and  fifty  years  before. 
They  were  apparrently  descendants  of  the  converts  of  a  later 
period;  but  whatever  the  origin  of  their  religious  belief,  it 
was  now  ardent  and  strong.     It  is  a  singular  fact  that  the 

1  How  those  names  came  to  be  applied  to  these  two  tribes  has  always 
been  a  mystery.  There  was  nothing  in  the  practices  of  either  that 
could  suggest  them. 

[19] 


20  UNREST    OF    THE   FLATHEADS. 

tribe  who  cast  out  the  missionaries  with  such  relentless  rigor 
should  thus  have  been,  through  their  children,  a  means  of 
introducing  them  to  other  tribes  of  whose  existence  their 
fathers  never  heard.  Irving  gives  in  Astoria  the  names 
of  the  first  two  individuals  of  these  classes  that  arrived  on 
the  Lower  Columbia  —  Regis  Brugiere,  a  half-breed,  and 
Ignace  Shonowane,  an  Iroquois.^ 

The  half-breeds  and  Iroquois  circulated  freely  in  quest 
of  furs  among  the  tribes  of  the  Columbia  Basin.  They  told 
these  tribes  of  the  priests  of  Canada  —  the  famous  black- 
gowns  who  taught  the  only  true  religion.  Upon  the  suscept- 
ible minds  of  the  Flatheads  their  accounts  made  a  deep 
impression.  They  eagerly  sought  further  knowledge  and 
even  learned  such  of  the  religious  rites  and  customs  of  the 
Church  as  their  ignorant  preceptors  could  communicate. 
They  became  much  concerned  about  their  own  spiritual  state. 
If  what  was  told  them  was  true  —  that  their  religion  was 
false  and  that  they  were  all  in  danger  of  perdition  and  could 
be  rescued  therefrom  only  by  embracing  the  new  faith  — 
was  it  not  high  time  for  them  to  learn  what  that  faith  was? 
These  considerations  crept  into  their  minds  slowly,  not 
through  any  direct  missionary  preaching,  but  from  the 
casual  hints  of  the  irreligious  trappers  who  now  and  then 
talked  with  them  on  the  subject,  and  perhaps  even  sought 
to  work  upon  their  feelings  from  mere  motives  of  curiosity 
or  amusement. 

A  dozen  years  or  more  of  this  intercourse  had  aroused  a 

2  It  is  said  that  the  Iroquois  went  to  the  Rocky  Mountains  in  a  com- 
pany of  about  twenty-four.  Whether  the  Ignace  Shonowane  of  Irving 
was  one  of  the  number  does  not  appear,  but  the  name  Ignace  was  a 
great  one  among  the  little  band  and  shows  from  what  past  associations 
it  must  have  sprung.  The  leader  of  these  Iroquois  was  Ignace  La 
Mousse,  or  Old  Ignace,  called  the  "Apostle  of  the  Flatheads,"  who 
deserves  to  be  canonized  among  the  saints  of  the  tribe.  He  early  ac- 
quired a  great  influence  over  the  Flatheads  and  it  was  largely  upon 
his  initiative  that  deputations  were  sent  to  St.  Louis  for  the  purpose  of 
securing  religious  teachers. 


THEY    SEND    EAST    FOR    LIGHT.  21 

deep  desire  to  have  instruction  directly  from  the  black-gowns 
themselves.  Doubtless  the  Iroquois  and  the  half-breeds  also 
longed  to  see  a  priest  again  and  resume  the  observance  of 
their  religious  duties.  The  problem  of  securing  one  did 
not  seem  so  very  difficult  to  them.  From  t^vo  directions 
there  was  an  established  route  of  travel  from  the  homes  of 
the  black-gowns  to  their  country.  There  was  the  Canadian 
route  from  Montreal  and  Quebec ;  but  it  lay  far  to  the  north 
and  the  distance  was  very  great.  This  was  a  natural  route, 
however,  considering  the  origin  of  the  Iroquois  and  half- 
breeds,  and  it  is  not  clear  why  they  did  not  receive  instruc- 
tion from  that  direction.  The  other  route  was  to  St.  Louis. 
It  w^as  much  shorter,  and  every  year  the  caravans  of  the 
traders  came  to  the  very  borders  of  their  country.  It  was 
a  comparatively  safe  undertaking  to  send  messengers  to  St. 
Louis  with  the  traders.  Furthermore,  it  was  from  that 
direction  that  the  great  explorers,  Lewis  and  Clark,  whom 
they  held  in  sacred  veneration,  had  come  to  their  country. 
One  of  them  still  lived  in  St.  Louis,  and  they  well  knew  that 
his  heart  would  be  open  to  them  if  they  could  but  see  him 
and  lay  their  petition  before  him. 

The  first  deputation  to  make  this  journey,  though  whether 
Flathead  or  Nez  Perce  is  not  entirely  clear,  was  in  1831  and 
consisted  of  four  Indians.  Whether  these  Indians  accom- 
panied the  return  caravan  of  the  traders,  which  usually 
reached  St.  Louis  in  the  beginning  of  October,  does  not  ap- 
pear, but  it  is  probable  that  they  did.  The  date  of  their  ar- 
rival, which  was  about  October  i,  would  confirm  this  view. 
In  St.  Louis  the  deputation  called  upon  General  Clark  and 
visited  the  Catholic  church.  The  complete  change  of  life 
which  residence  in  a  city  entailed  was  very  hard  on  them, 
and  they  all  fell  ill,  and  two  of  their  number  died  about  a 
month  after  their  arrival.  They  were  attended  by  a  priest 
and  gave  evidence  of  their  knowledge  of  the  Catholic  faith 
by  fervently  seizing  the  crucifix  when  shown  to  them,  and 
holding  it  with  such  tenacity  that  it  was  taken  away  only 


22  THEY    SEE    THE    RIGHT    MEN. 

after  death.  The  records  of  burial  of  these  two  Indians 
are  in  the  books  of  the  old  Catholic  Cathedral  in  St.  Louis. ^ 

And  now  an  event  took  place  which  converted  this  simple 
yet  inspiring  episode  into  a  thrilling  romance  that  stirred 
the  religious  heart  of  the  entire  country.  The  Wyandot 
Indians  were  among  the  last  of  the  tribes  east  of  the  Miss- 
issippi to  take  up  homes  to  the  westward  of  that  stream. 
At  this  particular  time  the  Government  was  trying  to  induce 
them  to  move,  and  they  were  investigating  the  question. 
They  sent  a  party  to  explore  the  country,  and  among  the 
number  was  one  William  Walker,  an  interpreter  and  him- 
self a  member  of  the  nation.  The  party  arrived  in  St. 
Louis  about  November  5,  1831,  and  before  proceeding  fur- 
ther Walker  called  upon  General  Clark.  The  General  di- 
rected his  attention  to  the  presence  of  the  Indian  chiefs  in  the 
next  room,  all  of  whom  were  sick,  one  having  died  a  few 
days  previously.  Mr.  Walker  went  into  the  room  to  see 
them  and  he  tells  us  how  their  personal  appearance  im- 
pressed him.  When  he  came  out  General  Clark  explained 
to  him  the  purpose  of  their  visit. 

A  significant  fact  in  Walker's  description  of  his  visit  to 
these  Indians  is  that  he  represents  them  as  genuine  iiat- 
heads,  their  heads  exhibiting  the  well-known  artificial  de- 
formity practiced  by  some  of  the  Coast  tribes,  but  never,  ac- 
cording to  all  information,  by  the  Flatheads  themselves. 
This  fact  can  be  accounted  for  only  on  the  supposition  that 
the  deputation  was  composed  of  Nez  Perce  Indians  who 

3  Le  trent  et  un  d'Octobre  mil  huit  cent  trent  et  un,  Je,  sousigne  ai 
inhume  dans  le  Cemetiere  de  cette  Paroisse  le  corps  de  Keepellele  ou 
Pipe  Bard  du  Nez  Perce  de  la  tribu  de  Chopoweck  Nation  appellee 
Tetes  Plates  age  d'environ  quarante  quatre  ans,  administre  du  St. 
Bapteme  venant  de  la  riviere  Columbia  au  dela  des  Rocky  Mountains. 

Edm.   Saulinier,  Pr. 

Le  dix  sept  de  Novembre  mil  huit  cent  trent  et  un,  Je,  sousigne,  ai 
inhume  dans  le  Cemetiere  de  cette  Paroisse  le  corps  de  Paul  sauvage 
de  la  Nation  des  Tetes  Plattes  venant  de  la  riviere  Columbia  au  dela 
des    Rocky    Mountains,    administre    du    St.    Bapteme    et    de    I'extreme 

°"^t'°"-  Roux,  Pr. 


FLATHEADS    OR    NEZ    PERCfiS  ?  23 

did,  to  some  extent,  follow  the  custom  of  flattening  the 
head.  There  is  indeed  much  evidence  that  this  is  the  true 
fact  in  the  case.  They  were  neighbors  of  the  Flatheads, 
and  like  them  religiously  inclined.  The  record  of  burial  of 
one  of  the  chiefs  at  St.  Louis  describes  him  as  a  Nez  Perce 
of  the  Chopunnish  tribe  (another  name  for  the  Nez  Perces), 
called  the  Flathead  nation.  A  letter  written  by  one  H.  Mc- 
Allister of  St.  Louis,  April  17,  1833,  in  reference  to  this 
deputation,  states  that  it  was  "  from  the  Chopunnish  tribe, 
residing  on  Lewis  river,  above  and  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Koos-koos-ka  (Clearwater)  river,  and  a  small  band  of  Flat- 
heads  that  live  with  them."  This  information  was  appar- 
ently derived  from  General  Clark.  There  are  other  au- 
thorities to  the  same  end. 

The  question  is  therefore  a  doubtful  one  as  to  who  these 
Indians  really  were,  with  the  weight  of  evidence  in  favor 
of  the  Nez  Perce  identity  instead  of  the  Flatheads  of  Father 
De  Smet.  But  whatever  the  truth,  it  does  not  affect  the 
important  fact  that  their  visit  produced  a  profound  impres- 
sion among  all  classes  when  it  came  to  be  generally  known. 
It  was  given  wide  notoriety  through  the  columns  of  the 
Christian  Advocate.  Under  date  of  February  18,  1833, 
one  G.  P.  Disoway  of  New  York  sent  a  letter  to  this  jour- 
nal, inclosing  another  from  William  Walker  describing  the 
circumstances  of  his  call  upon  General  Clark.^     The  publi- 

*  Walker's  letter  was  dated  Upper  Sandusky,  January  19,  1833.  Both 
the  Disoway  and  Walker  letters  were  published  March  i,  1833.  In 
Mr.  Disoway's  letter  the  writer  speaks  of  Mr.  Walker  as  having  made 
his  expedition  to  St.  Louis  and  the  proposed  Wyandot  lands  "  in  No- 
vember last,"  which  would  clearly  fix  the  date  of  the  Flathead  deputa- 
tion in  1832  instead  of  1831,  and  this  is  the  date  universally  accepted  by 
Protestant  missionary  writers  upon  the  subject.  Through  these  letters 
the  author  of  this  sketch  was  led  into  the  same  error  in  his  American 
Fur  Trade  of  the  Far  West,  p.  643.  See,  among  other  authorities, 
records  of  Indian  Superintendency  at  St.  Louis  now  in  possession  of 
the  Kansas  Historical  Society  at  Topeka ;  and  a  letter  from  Bishop 
Rosati  of  St.  Louis  dated  December  31,  1831,  published  in  the  Annals 
of  the  Propagation  of  the  Faith,  and  quoted  by  Palladino  in  his  Indian 
and  White  in  the  Northwest,  p.  11. 


24  A   GOOD   BUT    MYTHICAL   SPEECH. 

cation  of  Disoway's  letter  called  forth  a  spirited  editorial  in 
the  issue  of  March  22,  1833,  exhorting  the  Church  to  take 
the  matter  up  at  once  and  respond  to  a  call  which  appealed 
so  powerfully  to  the  Christian  conscience  of  the  world.  Ad- 
ditional correspondence  appeared  in  the  issue  of  May  10, 
1833,  and  the  whole  subject  had  by  this  time  become  familiar 
to  Protestant  churches  throughout  the  United  States. 

There  grew  out  of  the  event  a  curious  myth,  to  the  effect 
that  on  the  eve  of  the  departure  of  the  surviving  Indians 
for  their  home  they  were  given  a  banquet,  and  that  at  this 
banquet  one  of  the  Indians  delivered  a  speech,  in  which  he 
declared  that  he  and  his  companions  had  not  found  what 
they  came  for  and  must  therefore  go  home  disappointed  to 
a  disappointed  people.  The  writer  has  never  seen  the 
smallest  evidence  that  this  reported  speech  was  genuine,  nor 
any  as  to  who  the  real  author  was.°  The  speech  itself,  by 
whomsoever  prepared,  holds  a  prominent  place  in  the  his- 
tory of  the  Protestant  Missions  in  the  Columbia  valley,  and 
is  here  given  in  full : 

"  I  come  to  you  over  the  trail  of  many  moons  from  the 
setting  sun.  You  were  the  friends  of  my  fathers,  who  have 
all  gone  the  long  way.  I  came  with  an  eye  partly  open 
for  m}'-  people,  who  sit  in  darkness.  I  go  back  with  both 
eyes  closed.  How  can  I  go  back  blind,  to  my  blind  people  ? 
I  made  my  way  to  you  with  strong  arms  through  many 
enemies  and  strange  lands  that  I  might  carry  back  much  to 
them.  I  go  back  with  both  arms  broken  and  empty.  Two 
fathers  came  with  us,  they  were  the  braves  of  many  win- 
ters and  wars.  We  leave  them  asleep  here  by  your  great 
waters  and  wigwams.  They  were  tired  in  many  moons  and 
their  moccasins  wore  out. 

"  My  people  sent  me  to  get  the  '  White  Man's  Book  of 
Heaven.'     You  took  me  to  where  you  allow  your  women 

5  It  is  said,  upon  the  questionable  authority  of  the  Rev.  H.  H. 
Spalding,  who  went  to  Oregon  with  Alarcus  Whitman,  that  a  clerk 
of  the  American  Fur  Company  in  St.  Louis  overheard  the  speech  and 
wrote  it  up  and  sent  it  to  his  friends  in  Pittsburg. 


THEIR   RETURN    HOME.  25 

to  dance  as  we  do  not  ours,  and  the  book  was  not  there. 
You  took  me  to  where  they  worship  the  Great  Spirit  with 
candles  and  the  book  was  not  there.  You  showed  me 
images  of  the  good  spirits  and  the  pictures  of  the  good 
land  beyond,  but  the  book  was  not  among  them  to  tell  us 
the  way.  I  am  going  back  the  long  and  sad  trail  to  my 
people  in  the  dark  land.  You  make  my  feet  heavy  with 
gifts  and  my  moccasins  will  grow  old  in  carrying  them. 
yet  the  book  is  not  among  them.  When  I  tell  my  poor 
blind  people  after  one  more  snow,  in  the  big  council,  that  I 
did  not  bring  the  book,  no  word  will  be  spoken  by  our  old 
men  or  by  our  young  braves.  One  by  one  they  will  rise 
up  and  go  out  in  silence.  My  people  will  die  in  darkness, 
and  they  will  go  a  long  path  to  other  hunting  grounds.  No 
white  man  will  go  with  them,  and  no  White  Man's  Book  to 
make  the  way  plain.     I  have  no  more  words." 

The  return  of  these  Indians  to  their  country  is  another 
matter  about  which  there  is  great  uncertainty.  The  ortho- 
dox version,  as  given  by  the  latest  writer  on  the  subject,^ 
is  that  they  returned  by  the  American  Fur  Com.pany  steam- 
boat in  the  spring  of  1832  as  far  as  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Yellowstone  whence  they  made  their  way  home;  that 
George  Catlin,  who  was  a  passenger  on  the  same  boat, 
painted  their  pictures  and  that  these  are  now  numbers  207 
and  208  in  his  well-known  gallery  of  Indian  paintings ;  and 
that  the  tribe  at  home  agreed  to  go  on  their  annual  buffalo 
hunt  to  the  Judith  Basin  on  the  Upper  Missouri  earlier  than 
usual  in  the  summer  of  1832,  in  order  to  meet  them.  It 
can  only  be  said  of  this  version  that  it  is  extremely  doubt- 
ful. No  steamboat  had  ever  yet  ascended  the  Missouri  any- 
where near  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone,  and  there  had 
been  no  trading  post  built  farther  up  than  this  point  when 
the  deputation  left  home  in  1831.  They  could  not,  there- 
fore, have  expected  a  steamboat  as  far  as  the  Yellowstone  or 
any  other  craft  beyond  that  point,  and  any  pre-arranged 
plan  to  meet  the  Indians,  based  upon  such  a  voyage,  would 

^  By  Mrs.  Eva  Emery  Dye,  in  The  Conquest. 


26  THE    PROTESTANTS    RESPOND    FIRST. 

have  been  wholly  impossible.  ^Moreover  it  would  have 
been  extremely  hazardous  for  these  Indians,  alone  as  they 
would  have  been,  to  have  traversed  the  territory  of  their 
enemies  the  Blackfeet.  Finally,  every  consideration  would 
have  led  them  to  return  by  the  way  they  went,  and  while 
they  may  have  traveled  from  St.  Louis  to  Independence 
(near  Kansas  City)  by  boat,  they  probably  joined  the  regu- 
lar caravan  at  that  point.  The  annual  rendezvous  of  the 
Rocky  jMountain  Fur  Company  for  1832  was  in  Pierre's 
Hole,  on  the  borders  of  their  country,  and  here  in  fact  a 
large  band  of  both  the  Nez  Perce  and  Flathead  Indians  were 
gathered.  ]\Iay  they  not  have  been  looking  for  their  absent 
brethren,  and  would  not  this  have  been  the  natural  place  to 
expect  them  ? 

As  to  the  Catlin  pictures  the  facts  are  even  more  uncer- 
tain. It  is  well  known  that,  as  an  authority  on  historical 
or  even  descriptive  matters,  Catlin  did  not  stand  well,  and 
his  claim  may  be  simply  the  embellished  account  of  some 
commonplace  incident.  His  general  carelessness  of  state- 
ment is  illustrated  in  his  reference  to  the  two  men  who  died 
in  St.  Louis  as  "  old  and  venerable  men,"  whereas  the 
record  of  their  burial  gives  their  age  as  about  forty-one 
years.  There  were  always  Indians  on  the  boats  of  the 
American  Fur  Company  and  generally  in  considerable  num- 
bers and  of  different  tribes.  The  artist  had  no  lack  of  sub- 
jects, and  his  subsequent  identification  of  these  particular 
two  Indians  as  the  ones  who  visited  General  Clark  in  the 
fall  of  1 83 1  cannot  be  accepted  without  question. 

But  again  the  manner  of  their  journey  home,  or  whether 
they  ever  reached  there,  like  that  of  the  mythical  oration,  is 
of  comparatively  little  importance.  The  great  fact  is  that 
they  had  sown  seed  in  fertile  ground.  They  had  aroused 
the  Christian  spirit  throughout  the  United  States  and  the 
result  was  a  prompt  response  to  their  call.  In  the  year  fol- 
lowing that  of  the  publications  in  the  Christian  Advocate 
the  Methodists  sent  out  two  missionaries,  Jason  and  Daniel 
Lee.     These  missionaries  did  not  stop  among  the  Flatheads 


MISSIONARY  AND  POLITICAL   FRUITS.  2/ 

or  Nez  Perces  but  went  on  to  the  Willamette  Valley.  In 
1835  iMarcus  Whitman  and  Samuel  Parker  were  sent  out 
by  the  Presbyterians  to  investigate  the  field,  and  upon  arriv- 
ing at  Green  river  were  so  favorably  impressed  that  Doctor 
Whitman  returned  to  report  to  the  Board  and  recommend 
the  forming  of  missions.  While  at  home  he  married,  and 
in  the  following  year  himself  and  bride,  with  Reverend 
H.  H.  Spalding  and  w4fe,  started  for  their  remote  field  of 
work.  Doctor  Whitman  established  himself  among  the 
Cayuses  at  Waiilatpu,  near  the  \\^alla  Walla  river,  while  the 
Reverend  J\Ir.  Spalding  commenced  work  among  the  Nez 
Perces  at  Lapwai. 

Considered  simply  on  the  basis  of  evangelizing  the  In- 
dian tribes,  the  Protestant  missions  in  these  parts  were  not 
a  success.  To  the  clear-sighted  men  who  had  founded  them, 
it  was  apparent  that  they  never  could  succeed.  In  one  of 
his  letters  written  from  the  mission  Doctor  Whitman  said : 

"  I  have  no  doubt  our  greatest  work  is  to  be  to  aid  tha 
white  settlement  of  this  country  and  help  to  found  its  reli- 
gious institutions.  Providence  has  its  full  share  in  all  those 
events.  Although  the  Indians  have  made,  and  are  making, 
rapid  advancement  in  religious  knowledge  and  civilization, 
yet  it  cannot  be  hoped  that  time  will  be  allowed  to  mature 
the  work  of  Christianization  or  civilization  before  white  set- 
tlers w411  demand  the  soil  and  the  removal  of  both  of  the 
Indians  and  the  missions. 

"  What  Americans  desire  of  this  kind  they  always  effect, 
and  it  is  useless  to  oppose  or  desire  it  otherwise.  To  guide 
as  far  as  can  be  done,  and  direct  these  tendencies  for  the 
best,  is  evidently  the  part  of  wisdom." 

Such  was  likewise  the  feeling  on  the  part  of  the  Lees  on 
the  Willamette.  So  it  resulted  that  these  men  became 
rather  the  forerunners  of  American  civilization  in  Oregon 
than  successful  missionaries  to  the  Indian  tribes.  Marcus 
Whitman  in  particular  looked  with  a  jealous  eye  upon  his 
country's  rights  in  that  great  region.  In  no  other  light 
can  his  famous  journey  back  to  the  States  in  the  winter  of 


28  THE    FLATHEADS    STILL    UNSATISFIED. 

1842-3  be  explained,  and  however  much  his  motives  have 
been  impugned,  his  name  has  become  indehbly  fixed  in  the 
national  heart  as  one  of  its  great  heroes.  The  tragedy  which 
awaited  him  upon  his  return,  when  he  and  his  beloved  Chris- 
tian wife  fell  victims  to  savage  cruelty,  has  made  him  a 
true  martyr  both  to  the  cause  which  he  nominally  represented 
of  Christianizing  the  Indians  and  to  what  he  regarded  the 
far  greater  cause  of  establishing  American  possession  and 
civilization  in  the  Columbia  Valley. 

The  immediate  result  of  the  deputation  of  1831  was 
therefore  to  start  a  Protestant  missionary  movement  in 
Oregon.  The  Jesuits  at  St.  Louis  were  still  too  weak  in 
numbers  to  respond.  They  had  had  but  very  few  recruits 
since  the  opening  of  the  novitiate,  and  all  these  were  needed 
in  the  new  work  incident  to  founding  the  university.  It  was 
impossible  to  spare  any  workers  for  this  distant  field. 

In  1835  another  deputation  went  to  St.  Louis.  It  appears 
that  a  Flathead  chief,  Insula  by  name,  went  to  the  Green 
river  rendezvous  in  1835  to  meet  the  missionaries  whom  his 
people  supposed  to  be  Black-gowns,  but  who  proved  to  be 
Protestant  ministers.  As  they  did  not  satisfy  the  descrip- 
tion which  the  Indians  had  heard  of  the  Catholic  priests. 
Insula  returned  home  and  it  was  decided  to  send  a  deputa- 
tion to  St.  Louis  to  ask  for  them.  It  was  old  Ignace  who 
undertook  the  expedition  and  he  took  with  him  his  two  sons 
to  have  them  baptized.  He  made  the  journey  in  the  summer 
of  1835.''^    The  little  party  reached  St.  Louis  in  safety;  the 

■^  Father  Palladino,  Indian  and  White  in  the  Northwest,  p.  19,  says 
that  "  Ignace  started  with  the  intention  of  going  to  Canada,  the  place 
of  his  birth,  where  he  thought  he  could  more  easily  obtain  missionaries 
for  the  Flatheads,  which,  as  said,  was  the  main  object  of  his  long, 
perilous  journey.  Learning,  however,  on  his  way  that  there  were 
Jesuit  Fathers  at  St.  Louis,  he  turned  his  steps  in  that  direction,  and 
reached  the  place  late  in  the  fall,  after  frightful  privations  and  suffer- 
ings." This,  if  true,  is  another  indication  that  the  183 1  deputation  was 
not  from  the  Flatheads,  or  they  would  have  known  of  the  presence  of 
Jesuits  in  St.  Louis,  unless  indeed  none  of  the  deputation  succeeded  in 
getting  home. 


FATHER    DE    SMET    HEARS    THE    STORY  29 

sons  were  baptized  December  2d  with  the  Christian  names 
Charles  and  Francis ;  and  Ignace  went  to  Bishop  Rosati  with 
his  request  for  missionaries.  In  the  following  spring  he 
returned  home  with  his  sons,  where  one  of  them,  Francis, 
is  still  living. 

In  1837  a  third  deputation  started  for  St.  Louis.  It  con- 
sisted of  old  Ignace,  three  Flatheads,  and  one  Nez  Perce. 
At  Fort  Laramie  they  fell  in  with  a  party  of  white  men 
traveling  in  their  direction,  among  them  one  of  the  Protest- 
ant ministers,  W.  H.  Gray,  returning  from  Oregon.  At  Ash 
Hollow  on  the  North  Platte,  where  the  road  started  to 
cross  over  to  the  ford  of  the  South  Platte,  the  Indians  were 
attacked  by  a  band  of  Sioux.  The  whites  were  ordered 
to  stand  apart,  as  it  was  not  intended  to  molest  them. 
Ignace,  being  dressed  as  a  white  man,  was  mistaken  for  one 
and  ordered  apart  with  the  rest,  but  heroically  refused  to 
abandon  his  companions.  The  five  Indians  were  slain  and 
this  deputation  never  reached  St.  Louis. 

A  fourth,  and  this  time  successful,  attempt  was  made  in 
1839.  A  deputation  of  two  Indians,  Pierre  Gaucher  and 
Young  Ignace,  set  out  with  a  party  of  trappers  who  were 
going  to  St.  Louis.  Their  route  was  apparently  by  the 
Yellowstone  and  the  Missouri  rivers  which  they  descended 
by  canoe.  In  passing  St.  Joseph  Mission,  at  Council  Bluffs, 
they  stopped  to  see  the  priests  there,  and  it  is  an  interesting 
coincidence  that  they  should  have  found  the  very  man  who 
was  to  grant  them  their  request  in  person  and  open  a  new 
era  in  the  history  of  their  nation.  This  is  Father  De  Smet's 
account  of  their  visit : 

"  On  the  1 8th  of  last  September  two  Catholic  Iroquois 
came  to  visit  us.  They  had  been  for  twenty-three  years 
among  the  nation  called  the  Flatheads  and  Pierced  Noses, 
about  a  thousand  Flemish  leagues  from  where  we  are. 
I  have  never  seen  any  savages  so  fervent  in  religion.  By 
their  instructions  and  examples  they  have  given  all  that 
nation  a  great  desire  to  have  themselves  baptized.  All  that 
tribe  strictlv  observe  Sundav  and  assemble  several  times  a 


30  THE   INDIANS     PRAYER   GRANTED. 

week  to  pray  and  sing  canticles.  The  sole  object  of  these 
good  Iroquois  was  to  obtain  a  priest  to  come  and  finish 
what  they  had  so  happily  commenced.  We  gave  them  let- 
ters of  recommendation  for  our  Reverend  Father  Superior 
at  St.  Louis.  They  thought  nothing  of  adding  three  hun- 
dred leagues  to  the  thousand  they  had  already  accomplished, 
in  the  hope  that  their  request  would  be  granted." 

The  two  deputies  arrived  safely  in  St.  Louis  and  pre- 
sented themselves  to  Bishop  Rosati,  who  gave  them  definite 
hope  of  a  priest  in  the  following  spring.  Thereupon  one  of 
them,  Pierre  Gaucher,  set  out  for  home,  while  Ignace 
remained  to  accompany  the  missionary  who  should  be  sent. 
The  letter  of  Bishop  Rosati  to  the  Father  General  of  the 
Society  in  Rome,  detailing  the  circumstances  and  result  of 
the  visit,  is  dated  October  20,  1839,  and  states  that  the 
Indian  was  to  start  the  next  day.  If  Pierre  Gaucher  made 
his  journey  home  alone  at  that  season  of  the  year  (it  is 
said  to  have  taken  him  all  winter)  it  was  a  remarkable 
achievement.  He  arrived  in  the  Bitter  Root  Valley,  the 
home  of  the  Flatheads,  early  in  the  spring  of  1840  and  an- 
nounced to  the  tribe  that  a  black-gown  was  surely  coming. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

THE   FLATHEAD   MISSION. 

Father  De  Smet  detailed  for  the  Flathead  Mission  —  Journey  across 
the  plains  —  Meeting  with  Flathead  envoys  —  The  welcome  at  Pierre's 
Hole  —  Flattering  prospects  —  Joy  of  the  Indians  —  Gratitude  of 
Father  De  Smet  —  Journey  to  Three  Forks  —  John  Baptiste  de  Velder 
—  Father  De  Smet  starts  home  —  Passage  of  the  Crow  country  — 
Interesting  intercourse  with  the  Crows  —  Dangerous  journey  to  Fort 
Union  —  Journey  down  the  Missouri  —  Agreeable  encounter  with  the 
Sioux — Arrival  in  St.  Louis  —  Disappointment  in  regard  to  funds  — 
Father  De  Smet  seeks  contributions  —  Signal  success  —  Second  journey 
across  the  plains  —  Founding  of  St.  Mary's  Mission  among  the  Flat- 
heads  —  Difficulties  and  set-backs  —  Journey  to  Fort  Colville  and  re- 
turn —  Work  at  the  Mission  —  Visit  to  Fort  Vancouver  and  the  Wil- 
lamette —  Return  to  St.  Mary's  —  Departure  for  St.  Louis  —  Incidents 
of  the  journey  —  Arrival  in  St.  Louis. 

TlTfl  ^^^  '^^  came  to  fulfilling  the  promise  made  to  Ignace 
^^■^^  and  Pierre  Gaucher,  Father  De  Smet  volunteered  to 
go  and  the  task  was  assigned  to  him.  It  was  at  first  expected 
to  send  two  priests  but  it  was  found  impossible  to  raise, 
the  necessary  funds.  Accordingly  Father  De  Smet  was 
sent  alone.  He  could  at  least  survey  the  ground  and  re- 
port whether  it  would  be  worth  while  to  carry  the  work 
farther. 

On  the  27th  of  March,  1840,  he  set  out  on  his  long 
journey.  He  traveled  by  steamboat  to  Westport  (Kansas 
City)  and  there  joined  the  annual  expedition  of  the  Ameri- 
can Fur  Company  to  the  mountains.  It  was  under  charge 
of  a  trader,  Andrew  Drips,  well-known  in  the  early  his- 
tory of  the  west.  The  party  left  Westport  on  April  30, 
following  the  general  route  of  the  Oregon  Trail,  and  with- 
out any  untoward  event,  reached  the  annual  rendezvous 
on  Green  river  just  two  months  later. 

[31] 


2^2  THE    FLATHEADS    MEET    THEIR    FATHER, 

To  Father  De  Smet,  full  of  enthusiasm  in  his  work  and 
with  his  active  mind  open  to  all  around  him,  the  long  jour- 
ney was  a  veritable  pleasure  tour  except  that  he  was  un- 
well much  of  the  time.  His  letters  are  filled  with  interest- 
ing notes  upon  the  country,  and  descriptions  of  his  varied 
experiences  along  the  way.  His  buoyant  and  hopeful  de- 
meanor on  this  journey  is  a  proof  of  his  thoroughly  optimis- 
tic and  cheerful  temperament.  He  was  suffering  from  chills 
and  fever  and  was  at  one  time  in  such  a  state  that  he  had  to 
be  carried  on  a  litter  fixed  up  in  a  wagon.  He  was  strongly 
urged  to  turn  back ;  but  he  felt  that  too  much  was  at  stake, 
as  he  was  the  only  person  with  the  expedition  that  could 
carry  out  the  work,  and  his  abandonment  of  it  would  be  a 
sore  disappointment  to  the  Indians.  He  therefore  resolved 
to  keep  on.  The  malaria  did  not  finally  leave  him  until  on 
his  way  home  some  three  months  afterward. 

At  Green  river,  to  Father  De  Smet's  joy  and  astonish- 
ment, he  found  a  deputation  of  ten  Flathead  Indians  who 
had  been  sent  on  to  meet  him  after  the  return  of  Pierre 
Gaucher.  There  were  also  present  other  Indians,  notably 
of  the  Snake  nation,  and  a  motley  crowd  of  trappers  and 
hunters, —  making  in  all  a  curious  assemblage  such  as  only 
a  rendezvous  of  the  fur  trade  in  those  early  times  could  pro- 
duce. Father  De  Smet  enjoyed  the  novelty  of  it  all,  and 
was  especially  delighted  at  the  prospect  of  success  which 
the  presence  of  the  Flatheads  assured.  There  was  an  in- 
stant bond  of  sympathy  between  him  and  his  hosts  which 
made  them  from  the  first  more  brothers  than  strangers. 
The  Sunday  following  their  arrival  a  formal  mass  was 
celebrated  on  the  prairie  —  the  first  ceremony  of  the  kind 
in  the  Rocky  Mountains  north  of  the  Mexican  posses- 
sions. 

After  four  days  delay  at  the  Green  river  rendezvous, 
Father  De  Smet  and  his  Flatheads  started  to  join  the  main 
camp.  Their  route  took  them  through  the  \\^onderful  valley 
of  Jackson  Hole  and  across  the  great  Teton  range  into 
the  valley  of  Pierre's  Hole,  renowned  for  its  beauty  and 


RECEPTIVE    SAVAGES.  33 

at  one  time  a  famous  rendezvous  in  the  fur  trade.  In 
Pierre's  Hole  was  the  camp  of  the  Flatheads  and  Pend 
d'Oreilles,  who  had  come  thus  far  to  the  number  of  about 
1, 600  to  welcome  the  long-expected  black-gown.  They 
had  already  set  up  his  tent  and  when  he  arrived  there  was 
the  most  lively  demonstration  of  joy.  They  led  him  to  the 
lodge  of  the  chief,  who  received  him  with  a  touching  ad- 
dress of  welcome,  after  which  the  Father  at  once  began  his 
instructions.  With  a  marvelous  eagerness  the  whole  tribe 
set  about  learning  their  religious  duties.  A  bell  was 
presented  to  Father  De  Smet  to  call  them  to  prayers  and 
they  were  rigidly  punctual  at  all  the  appointed  exercises. 
The  chief  was  the  first  up  in  the  morning,  and  as  he  aroused 
his  people,  "  Come,  courage,  my  children,"  he  cried, 
"  open  your  eyes.  Address  your  first  thought  and  words 
to  the  Great  Spirit.  Tell  him  that  you  love  him,  and  ask 
him  to  take  pity  on  you.  Courage,  for  the  sun  is  about  to 
appear,  it  is  time  you  went  to  the  river  to  wash  yourselves. 
Be  prompt  at  our  Father's  lodge,  at  the  first  sound  of  the 
bell;  be  quiet  when  you  are  there;  open  your  ears  to  hear 
and  your  hearts  to  hold  fast  all  the  words  that  he  says  to 
you." 

It  was  in  truth  a  remarkable  experience  to  find  the  wild 
tribes  of  the  mountains  absorbed  in  religious  teaching 
with  a  fervor  approaching  that  of  the  primitive  Christians. 
To  the  earnest  missionary  who  had  come  so  far  the  full 
reward  of  his  labors  was  already  at  hand.  It  was  something 
far  beyond  his  expectations,  and  tears  of  gratitude  told  of 
his  emotion  as  the  hope  of  spreading  a  knowledge  of  the 
faith  among  people  ready  and  capable  of  receiving  it 
seemed  about  to  be  realized.  His  narrative  of  these  events, 
as  given  in  his  letters,  can  alone  convey  an  adequate  impres- 
sion of  this  singular  scene  in  the  heart  of  the  wilderness. 

After  sojourning  a  short  time  in  Pierre's  Hole  the  entire 

party  took  up  their  march  in  the  direction  of  the  Flathead 

country.     They  ascended  Henry  Fork  of  Snake  river  to 

its  source  in  Henry  Lake  where  they  arrived  on  the  22nd 

3 


34  SURVEY   AND    RETURN    FOR    KELP. 

of  July.  This  lake  is  close  tO'  the  Continental  Divide,  and 
just  across  the  ridge  is  Red  Rock  Lake,  the  ultimate  source 
of  the  Missouri,  4,221  miles  by  water-course  from  the  sea. 
Father  De  Smet  climbed  far  up  the  side  of  a  mountain 
where  he  could  overlook  this  impressive  scene,  and  then 
sat  down,  musing  upon  the  works  of  God  around  him  and 
the  holy  character  of  the  service  in  which  he  was  engaged. 
On  a  rock  near  him  he  inscribed  a  religious  sentiment  and 
the  date  July  2^,  1840. 

During  the  next  month  Father  De  Smet  and  his  Flathead 
and  Pend  d'Oreille  friends  passed  leisurely  down  the  valley 
of  the  stream  which  flows  from  Red  Rock  Lake  to  join 
the  Jefiferson  river,  and  down  that  stream  to  the  Three  Forks 
of  the  Missouri.  His  time  was  spent  in  instructing  the 
Indians,  in  listening  to  their  tales  of  war  and  peace,  and  in 
studying  the  prospects  of  missionary  work  among  them. 
He  became  convinced  that  here  was  a  field  of  genuine  prom- 
ise, and  his  proposition  to  establish  a  mission  in  their  midst 
was  received  with  the  greatest  enthusiasm.  Father  De  Smet 
did  not  actually  go  into  the  Flathead  country,  which  lay 
across  the  Divide  in  the  Bitter  Root  Valley,  as  he  thought 
it  best  not  to  take  the  time  to  go  there  on  this  occasion; 
but  rather  to  hasten  home,  report  the  situation  to  his  supe- 
riors, and  get  the  necessary  assistance  for  the  commence- 
ment of  a  permanent  mission.  He  imparted  his  plan  to  the 
Indians,  and  after  giving  them  his  word  that  he  would  re- 
turn, he  set  out  on  his  journey  home. 

He  had  as  a  companion  a  man  whom  he  had  picked  up  at 
the  Green  river  rendezvous.  Father  De  Smet  thus  de- 
scribes him : 

"A  good  Fleming  of  Ghent,  John  Baptiste  de  Velder,  an 
old  grenadier  of  Napoleon,  who  had  left  his  native  land  at 
the  age  of  thirty,  and  had  spent  the  last  fourteen  years  in 
the  mountains  in  the  capacity  of  beaver  hunter,  generously 
offered  to  serve  and  assist  me  in  all  my  wanderings.  He 
was  resolved,  he  said,  to  pass  the  remainder  of  his  days  in 
the  practice  of  his  holy  religion.     He  had  almost  forgotten 


ALWAYS    MORE   INDIANS.  35 

the  Flemish  language,  excepting  his  prayers  and  a  song 
which  he  had  learned  on  his  mother's  knee  and  which  he 
repeated  every  day." 

This  man  staid  by  Father  De  Smet  in  his  long  and  peril- 
ous journey  back  to  St.  Louis  and  for  a  part  of  the  way  was 
his  only  companion.  The  Flatheads  sent  an  escort  of 
seventeen  men  as  far  as  to  Fort  Alexander,  on  the  Yellow- 
stone. Amid  the  genuine  sorrow  of  the  Indians,  tempered, 
however,  by  the  Father's  promise  to  return  the  following 
spring,  the  little  cavalcade  took  up  their  route  from  the 
Three  Forks  very  much  along  the  modern  line  of  the  North- 
ern Pacific  Railroad.  They  crossed  the  Bozeman  pass  and 
reached  the  Yellowstone  river  at  the  Great  Bend  where 
Livingston  now  stands.  With  imminent  danger  from  the 
hostile  Blackfeet,  they  made  their  way  down  the  right  bank 
of  the  river  until  they  reached  a  village  of  the  Crow  Indians 
in  the  Bighorn  valley. 

Here  Father  De  Smet  made  new  friends,  as  he  always  did 
whenever  he  met  a  band  of  Indians.  He  traveled  with  them 
two  days  and  was  forced  to  accept  their  burdensome  hos- 
pitality during  all  this  time.  "  Since  I  hide  nothing  from 
you,"  he  says  in  one  of  his  letters,  "  I  hope  you  will  not  be 
scandalized  at  learning  that  in  a  single  afternoon  I  took  part 
in  twenty  different  banquets."  The  religious  teachings, 
which  Father  De  Smet  never  failed  to  press  upon  his  Indian 
hosts  wherever  he  was,  caused  some  surprise  to  the  ruffian 
freebooters  among  whom  he  found  himself.  One  of  the 
chiefs  exclaimed :  "  I  think  there  are  only  two  in  all  the 
Crow  nation  who  will  not  go  to  the  place  you  describe; 
*  *  *  they  are  the  only  ones  I  know  of  who  have  never 
killed  nor  stolen  nor  been  guilty  of  the  excesses  you  speak  of. 
I  may  be  mistaken  about  them,  and  in  that  case  we  will  all  go 
to  hell  together."  Still  Father  De  Smet  made  a  deep  and 
lasting  impression  upon  this  wild  tribe.  He  visited  them  on 
a  subsequent  occasion  and  was  well  received  by  them,  and 
more  than  once  they  asked  that  he  plant  a  mission  in  their 
country. 


2,6  PERILS  OF  THE  DESERT. 

At  Fort  Alexander,  which  was  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany trading  post  for  the  Crows,  Father  De  Sm.et's  escort 
turned  back  at  his  request,  and  he  was  left  with  his  Flemish 
friend  to  make  the  rest  of  the  journey  alone.  This  post 
was  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Yellowstone  opposite  the  mouth 
of  the  Rosebud  river.  The  two  travelers  set  out  by  land, 
keeping  along  the  left  bank  of  the  river,  and  with  great 
caution  hastened  their  course  to  Fort  Union  on  the  Mis- 
souri, a  little  above  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone.  This 
journey  was  one  of  great  risk  and  peril.  They  were  liable 
at  any  moment  to  be  slain  by  some  wandering  band  of  In- 
dians and  on  one  occasion  escaped  this  catastrophe  by  the 
narrowest  margin.  Commenting  upon  their  dangers,  Father 
De  Smet  made  the  following  beautiful  reflection :  "  Such  a 
solitude,  with  all  its  horrors  and  dangers,  has  notwithstand- 
ing one  very  real  advantage ;  it  is  a  place  where  one  is  con- 
stantly looking  death  in  the  face,  and  where  it  presents  itself 
incessantly  to  the  imagination  in  the  most  hideous  forms. 
There  one  feels  in  a  very  special  manner  that  he  is  wholly  in 
God's  hands.  It  is  then  easy  to  offer  him  the  sacrifice  of  a 
life  which  belongs  less  to  you  than  to  the  first  savage  who 
may  see  fit  to  take  it ;  and  to  form  the  most  generous  resolu- 
tions a  man  is  capable  of.  That  was,  in  fact,  the  best  '  re- 
treat '  that  I  have  ever  made  in  my  life.  My  only  consola- 
tion was  the  object  for  which  I  had  undertaken  the  journey: 
my  guide,  my  support,  my  refuge,  was  the  fatherly  provi- 
dence of  God." 

But  the  great  danger  did  not  prevent  the  good  priest  from 
seeing  the  humorous  side  of  things.  On  the  second  day  of 
their  journey  they  were  in  imminent  peril  of  being  discov- 
ered by  a  party  of  savages  whose  fresh  trail  they  had  come 
upon.  They  built  no  camp  fire  that  night  and  cooked  no 
supper.  "  I  rolled  myself  in  my  blanket,"  says  Father  De 
Smet,  "  and  stretched  out  on  the  sod.  commending  myself 
to  the  good  God.  My  grenadier,  braver  than  I,  was  soon 
snoring  like  a  steam  engine  in  full  swir./.  Running  through 
all  the  notes  of  the  chromatic  scale,  he  closed  each  move- 


SIOUX    RECEIVE   AN    IMPRESSION.  37 

ment  of  his  prelude  with  a  deep  sigh,  by  way  of  modulation. 
As  for  me,  I  turned  and  rolled,  but  spent  a  sleepless  night." 

In  due  time  they  reached  Fort  Union.  After  a  few  days 
of  the  hospitable  entertainment  which  that  fine  trading  post 
always  furnished  to  guests  of  merit,  and  after  having  bap- 
tized a  good  many  half-breed  children,  the  two  travelers  re- 
sumed their  journey  September  23d.  They  w^ent  by  land 
down  the  left  bank  of  the  Missouri  to  near  the  Mandan 
village,  where  they  crossed  to  the  right  bank.  Here  were 
also  the  Aricaras  and  the  Minnetarees,  or  Grosverftres  of 
the  Missouri,  all  of  whom  welcomed  the  black-gown  and 
did  all  in  their  power  to  entertain  him.  They  stopped  a 
short  time  at  Fort  Clark,  the  trading  post  for  these  Indians, 
and  then,  in  company  of  a  Canadian  voyageur,  set  out  down 
the  west,  or  right,  bank  of  the  river  for  Fort  Pierre. 

On  this  part  of  the  journey  they  came  near  getting  into 
serious  trouble.  They  had  stopped  for  noon  in  a  concealed 
little  nook  on  the  brink  of  a  clear  spring,  and  were  congratu- 
lating themselves  on  the  security  of  their  position,  when 
they  were  suddenly  pounced  upon  by  a  band  of  Blackfeet- 
Sioux  who  had  been  stealthily  following  them  for  some 
time.  The  Indians  were  bedaubed  with  paint  and  other- 
wise decked  out  as  if  on  the  warpath.  "  I  rose  at  once," 
says  Father  De  Smet,  "  and  presented  my  hand  to  him 
whom  I  believed  to  be  the  chief  of  the  band.  He  said 
coldly,  '  Why  are  you  hiding  in  this  ravine  ?  '  I  answered 
him  that  we  were  hungry  and  that  the  spring  had  invited  us 
to  take  a  moment's  repose.  He  looked  at  me  with  wonder, 
and  addressing  the  Canadian,  who  could  speak  the  Sioux 
language  a  little  better,  said  to  him,  '  I  have  never  seen  such 
a  man  in  my  life.  Who  is  he  ?  '  My  long  black  robe  and 
the  missionary  cross  that  I  bore  upon  my  breast  especially 
excited  his  curiosity.  The  Canadian  answ^ered  (and  under 
the  circumstances  he  was  prodigal  of  his  titles)  :  *  It  is  the 
man  who  talks  to  the  Great  Spirit.  It  is  a  chief  Black- 
gown  of  the  Frenchr.ien.'  His  fierce  look  changed  at  once; 
he  ordered  his  warriors  to  put  away  their  weapons  and  they 


38  FUNDS    FOR    FURTHER    WORK. 

all  shook  hands  with  me.  I  made  them  a  present  of  a  big- 
twist  of  tobacco  and  everybody  sat  down  in  a  circle  and 
smoked  the  pipe  of  peace  and  friendship." 

Their  further  entertainment  by  these  Indians  was  full  of 
interest  and  it  was  an  introduction  to  the  Sioux  nations 
which  neither  the  Indians  nor  Father  De  Smet  ever  forgot. 
Although  he  never  had  the  satisfaction  of  founding  a  mis- 
sion in  their  midst  he  made  many  efforts  to  do  so,  and  these 
Indians  never  ceased  while  he  lived  to  send  messages  to  him 
asking  him  to  send  them  a  teacher. 

Thus  the  little  party  made  their  way  onward  amid  danger 
and  never-ending  surprises.  They  stopped  at  Forts  Pierre 
and  Vermillion,  and  at  the  latter  place  took  a  canoe,  under 
the  guidance  of  an  Iroquois  half-breed.  They  reached  St. 
Joseph  Mission,  at  Council  Bluffs,  November  24th,  and  the 
river  closed  with  ice  the  next  day.  The  rest  of  the  journey 
was  made  by  land,  and  Father  De  Smet  arrived  among  his 
brethren  at  the  St.  Louis  University  on  the  last  day  of  the 
year. 

Full  of  enthusiasm  over  the  results  of  his  journey  and 
eager  to  commence  preparations  for  the  return.  Father  De 
Smet  was  not  prepared  for  the  deep  disappointment  that 
awaited  him.  "  On  my  arrival  at  St.  Louis,"  he  writes, 
under  date  of  May  i,  1841,  "  I  gave  an  account  to  my  supe- 
rior of  my  journey  and  of  the  flattering  prospects  which  a 
mission  beyond  the  Rocky  INIountains  held  out.  You  will 
easily  believe  me  when  I  tell  you  that  my  heart  sank  within 
me  on  learning  from  him  that  the  funds  at  his  disposal  for 
missionary  purposes  would  not  enable  him  to  afford  me 
scarcely  half  of  what  was  necessary  for  the  outfit  and  other 
expenses  of  an  expedition.  The  thought  that  the  under- 
taking would  have  to  be  given  up,  that  I  would  not  be  able 
to  redeem  my  promise  to  the  poor  Indians,  pierced  my  very 
heart  and  filled  me  with  the  deepest  sorrow.  I  would  have 
desponded  had  I  not  already  experienced  the  visible  protec- 
tion of  the  Almighty  in  the  prosecution  of  this  great  work. 
Mv  confidence  in  Him  was  unabated.     Whilst  in  this  state 


THE    SECOND    JOURNEY    WEST.  39 

of  mind  one  of  my  friends  encouraged  me  to  appeal  to  the 
zealous  and  learned  coadjutor  of  Philadelphia  and  to  his 
indefatigable  clergy.  I  immediately  acted  upon  the  thought. 
I  did  appeal,  and  with  what  success  the  Catholic  public  al- 
ready know." 

Father  De  Smet  practically  took  the  matter  of  funds  into 
his  own  hands,  went  to  New  Orleans,  and  in  the  course  of 
a  few  months  succeeded  in  raising  the  necessary  amount 
from  that  city  and  several  other  sources.  His  great  success 
on  this  occasion  doubtless  accounts  for  his  being  sent  to 
Europe  so  often  in  after  years  on  similar  missions. 

The  funds  being  raised  and  the  outfit  made  up,  Father 
De  Smet  and  his  companions  set  out  from  St.  Louis  on  the 
steamer  Oceana  April  30,  1841.  The  party  consisted  of 
two  priests  besides  Father  De  Smet  and  three  lay  brothers. 
Father  Nicholas  Point,  one  of  the  number,  was  a  most  valu- 
able acquisition  and  did  a  great  work  for  the  mission.  He 
was  a  skilled  draftsman,  and  left  many  sketches  of  the  cus- 
toms of  the  people  among  whom  he  was  thrown.^ 

We  shall  not  follow  in  detail  this  second  long  journey 
over  the  plains,  though  its  interesting  incidents  fill  many 
pages  in  Father  De  Smet's  letters.  The  little  party  left 
Westport  i\Iay  loth  and  reached  Fort  Hall  on  Snake  river 
about  the  middle  of  August.  Here  they  met  the  advance 
guard  of  the  Flatheads.  Resuming  their  journey  August 
19th,  they  traversed  the  plain  of  the  Three  Buttes  to  near 
the  junction  of  Henry  Fork  with  Snake  river,  and  thence 
followed  practically  the  modern  line  of  the  Oregon  Short 

^  "  To  give  them  pleasure,  the  missionary  (Point,  winter  of  1845-46) 
amused  himself  in  his  leisure  time  by  sketching  with  the  pen  various 
historic  incidents,  taken  from  their  own  annals ;  such,  namely,  as  were 
most  to  their  taste,  such  as  the  moving  of  a  camp,  diverse  occupations, 
the  work  of  the  chase,  fine  deeds  of  arms,  amusing  or  tragic  ad- 
ventures, religious  scenes,  etc.  It  would  be  hard  to  depict  the  pleasure 
that  this  little  collection  gave  them;  but  what  is  much  more  worth 
while,  it  contributed  powerfully  to  increase  the  authority  of  the  chiefs 
in  the  eyes  of  the  young  men,  and  to  rouse  in  the  latter  a  noble 
emulation  for  good." —  Indian  and  White  in  the  Northwest.  Palladino. 


40  PLANTING  THE   FIRST   MISSION. 

Line  Railroad  to  the  Deer  Lodge  valley,  where  they  arrived 
early  in  September.  The  main  Flathead  camp  had  joined 
them  while  passing  through  the  Beaverhead  valley.  The 
party  continued  their  route  down  the  Deer  Lodge  and  Hell 
Gate  valleys  to  the  modern  site  of  Missoula,  and  then  passed 
up  the  Bitter  Root  valley  some  thirty  miles,  where  they 
chose  the  site  of  their  first  establishment  and  commenced 
work  upon  it  September  24,  1841. 

Notwithstanding  all  they  had  brought  with  them  for  the 
needs  of  the  mission,  it  was  at  once  seen  that  further  pro- 
visions and  tools  would  have  to  be  procured,  and  as  the  near- 
est point  where  they  could  possibly  be  obtained  was  Fort 
Colville  on  the  Columbia,  it  was  decided  that  Father  De 
Smet  should  make  a  journey  thither  before  winter  set  in. 
He  accordingly  left  St.  Mary's  Mission,  the  name  of  the 
new  establishment,  October  28th,  and  after  a  long  and  try- 
ing journey  through  dense  forests  and  over  a  rough  coun- 
try he  reached  his  destination  in  safety.  He  returned  to 
St.  Mary's  early  in  December,  having  been  absent  but  little 
over  a  month. 

The  missionaries  now  labored  with  unabating  zeal,  in 
which  the  Indians  joined,  to  get  their  establishment  into 
working  order.  Things  were  moving  so  prosperously  that, 
as  Father  De  Smet  naively  remarks,  the  jealousy  of  the 
demons  of  darkness  was  aroused,  and  they  were  treated  to 
a  few  trifling  set-backs;  as  for  example  the  "  sickness  of  the 
interpreter  and  sexton  "  when  their  assistance  was  most 
needed ;  a  hurricane  which  came  near  demolishing  in  an  in- 
stant all  the  fruits  of  their  labors ;  and  the  church  organ  ac- 
cidentally broken  by  one  of  the  Indians.  "All  seemed  to 
conspire  against  them;  but  the  day  of  baptism  arrives  and 
every  cloud  disappears." 

The  fathers  entered  upon  the  religious  portion  of  their 
work  with  determined  zeal  and  devotion.  They  struck  di- 
rectly at  the  root  of  the  evils  of  savage  society  as  they  under- 
stood them.  One  of  their  greatest  difificulties  was  in  regu- 
lating the  subject  of  marriage.    They  adopted  the  principle 


DE  SMET    AND    McLOUGHLIN,  4I 

that  there  could  be  but  one  legitimate  marriage  and  that  it 
must  be  solemnized  according  to  the  forms  of  the  Church. 
It  therefore  became  necessary  for  the  Indians  to  choose, 
and  then  present  themselves  before  a  priest.  The  fathers 
had  a  good  deal  of  trouble,  as  might  naturally  be  expected, 
to  convince  the  Indians  of  the  necessity  of  this  and  other 
regulations  of  civilized  society;  and  with  a  less  well-dis- 
posed tribe  they  would  not  have  succeeded. 

Thus  the  winter  of  184 1-2  passed  away.  With  the  ap- 
proach of  spring  Father  De  Smet  decided  to  visit  the  lower 
Columbia  for  additional  supplies,  and  to  get  in  touch  with 
the  new  Catholic  missionary  in  that  quarter  and  with  the 
governor  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  who  resided  at  Fort 
Vancouver.  He  left  St.  Mary's  early  in  April  and  went  first 
to  Fort  Colville.  Thence  he  made  his  way  down  the  Colum- 
bia by  skiff,  wherever  navigation  was  possible.  He  had 
fortunately  gone  ashore  to  walk  along  the  bank  at  the  place 
called  the  Little  Dalles  on  their  second  day  out  from  Fort 
Colville,  when  the  frail  craft  in  which  he  usually  rode  was 
caught  by  the  violent  eddies,  swamped,  and  five  of  the  boat- 
men drowned.  He  arrived  at  Fort  Vancouver  June  8th, 
where  to  his  great  joy  he  found  Father  Blanchet  and  Father 
Demers,  two  Canadian  priests  who  had  been  sent  to  that 
country  two  years  before.  He  visited  St.  Paul's,  the  estab- 
lishment of  these  priests  on  the  Willamette,  and  conferred 
with  them  about  what  ought  to  be  done  to  promote  the  gen- 
eral work  in  their  respective  territories.  It  was  decided  that, 
with  the  consent  of  his  superiors,  Father  De  Smet  should  go 
to  Europe  for  recruits  and  funds. 

Father  De  Smet  also  found  that  he  had  a  most  powerful 
and  valuable  ally  in  the  venerable  John  McLoughlin,  Gover- 
nor for  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  in  these  parts.  This 
philanthropic  and  capable  man  was  a  power  in  the  Columbia 
valley  in  these  early  years  and  his  generous  aid  to  settlers 
during  the  emigration  to  Oregon  has  won  him  a  per- 
manent place  in  the  affections  of  the  people  of  that  region.' 

2  See  pages  355  and  1553  to  1557  of  the  Letters. 


42  ANOTHER   EASTWARD   JOURNEY. 

Having  accomplished  the  purpose  of  his  journey,  Father 
De  Smet  returned  to  St.  Mary's.  Both  on  his  way  out  and 
back  he  studied,  as  was  always  his  wont,  the  spiritual  con- 
dition of  the  tribes  through  which  he  passed  and  the  pros- 
pects for  establishing  missions  among  them.  He  found  the 
feeling  among  the  Coeur  d'Alenes  highly  promising  and  he 
gave  these  Indians  assurances  that  he  would  send  them 
priests  that  very  fall.  In  fulfillment  of  this  promise  he  di- 
rected Father  Mengarini  to  open  a  mission  and  leave  it  in 
charge  of  Father  Point  and  Brother  Huet. 

With  all  things  arranged  as  far  as  his  humble  means 
would  permit,  and  with  assurances  to  his  brethren  and  the 
Indians  whom  he  was  leaving  that  he  would  send  them  early 
succor  from  St.  Louis  and  Europe,  Father  De  Smet  set  out  on 
his  return  eastward  July  29th.  He  spent  two  weeks  in  the 
plain  of  the  Three  Forks  with  the  Flatheads  who  were  there 
on  a  bufifalo  hunt,  and  then  started  for  St.  Louis  by  the 
route  of  the  previous  year.  He  was  escorted  to  the  Crow 
country  by  twelve  Flatheads  and  had  as  traveling  com- 
panions an  Iroquois  by  the  name  of  Ignatius,  and  a  Crow 
half-breed  by  the  name  of  Gabriel.  His  short  stay  among 
the  Crows  was  full  of  interesting  experiences,  to  some  of 
which  we  shall  refer  later.  He  left  Fort  Alexander  with  his 
two  companions  and  also  two  American  hunters  and  to- 
gether they  made  the  always  perilous  journey  down  the  Yel- 
lowstone to  Fort  Union.  This  is  Father  De  Smet's  de- 
scription of  their  daily  routine  of  travel :  "At  daybreak  we 
saddled  and  set  out  and  at  about  10  a.  m.  we  halted  for  an 
hour  and  a  half,  being  careful  to  choose  a  place  which,  in  case 
of  attack,  might  offer  some  advantage  for  defense.  After 
this  brief  rest  we  resumed  our  course  and  kept  up  a  trot  until 
sunset.  After  our  evening  meal  we  built  a  big  fire  and 
hastily  constructed  a  hut  from  the  branches  of  trees  to  make 
our  enemies,  who  might  be  on  the  watch,  think  that  we 
were  encamped  for  the  night.  *  *  *  Then  we  pursue 
our  route  until  ten  or  eleven  o'clock  at  night  when,  with- 
out fire  or  shelter,  we  dispose  ourselves  as  best  we  can  for 


AN    EXCITING    VOYAGE.  43 

repose.  *  *  *  Each  one  wraps  himself  in  his  buffalo 
robe,  with  his  saddle  for  a  pillow,  and  thanks  to  the 
fatigues  of  a  forty-mile  ride  in  a  burning  sun,  falls  to  sleep 
the  moment  he  lies  down/' 

After  a  brief  and  enjoyable  delay  at  Fort  Union  Father 
De  Smet,  with  Ignatius  and  Gabriel,  set  out  in  a  skiff  for 
St.  Louis.  On  their  third  day  out  they  had  the  good  fortune 
to  meet  a  steamboat  —  the  first  one  that  had  ever  ascended 
the  river  so  far  at  that  season  of  the  year  —  and  they  dis- 
played no  false  modesty  in  accepting  an  invitation  to  ride  in 
it  the  rest  of  the  way  to  St.  Louis.  After  returning  with  the 
boat  to  Fort  Union  all  set  out  again  down  the  river.  The 
voyage  was  a  tedious  and  dangerous  one.  "  The  waters 
were  low;"  says  Father  De  Smet,  "  the  sandbars  and  snags 
everywhere  numerous;  the  boat  consequently  encountered 
many  obstacles  in  her  passage.  We  were  frequently  in  great 
danger  of  perishing.  Her  keel  was  pierced  with  pointed 
rocks,  her  sides  rent  by  the  snags.  Twenty  times  the  wheels 
had  been  broken  to  pieces.  The  pilot-house  had  been  carried 
away  in  the  tempest;  the  whole  cabin  would  have  followed  if 
it  had  not  been  made  fast  by  a  large  cable.  Our  boat  ap- 
peared to  be  little  more  than  a  mere  wreck,  and  in  this  wreck, 
after  forty-six  days  navigation  from  the  Yellowstone,  we 
arrived  safely  at  St.  Louis." 

In  deep  gratitude  for  his  preservation  amid  the  manifold 
dangers  that  he  had  passed  through,  Father  De  Smet  re- 
paired at  once  to  his  church  and  offered  up  a  grateful  prayer 
of  thanksgiving  for  the  signal  favors  he  had  received. 


CHAPTER  V. 

THE   OREGON    MISSIONS. 

Recruits  for  the  Mission  —  Goes  to  Europe  —  Visits  Rome  —  Sails 
for  Oregon  via  Cape  Horn  —  Incidents  of  the  voyage  —  Visits  to 
Chile  and  Peru  —  Crossing  the  Columbia  bar  —  Activities  in  the  Wil- 
lamette valley  —  Visit  to  the  interior  —  Winter  among  the  Kalispels  — 
Visits  St.  Mary's  —  Return  to  the  Willamette  —  Again  visits  the  upper 
country  —  Starts  in  search  of  the  Blackfeet  —  The  Canadian,  Morigeau 
—  Failure  to  tind  Blackfeet —  Passes  winter  at  Fort  Augustus  —  Perils 
of  return  journey  —  Extent  of  Oregon  Missions  —  Return  to  St.  Mary 
Mission  —  Sets  out  for  St.  Louis  —  Battle  between  Crows  and  Flat- 
heads  —  Peace  with  the  Blackfeet  —  At  Fort  Lewis  —  Voyage  by  skiff 
down  the  Missouri  —  Meeting  the  Mormons  —  Arrival  in  St.  Louis  — 
Survey  of  work  in  Oregon. 

ipATHER  De  SMET'S  enthusiasm  and  faith  in  his  new 
Jl  work  were  unbounded.  He  inspired  his  superiors 
with  his  own  confidence  and  they  gave  him  a  free  hand  to 
work  out  his  plans.  Early  in  the  year  1843  he  went  as  far 
south  as  New  Orleans  and  as  far  east  as  Boston  soliciting 
funds  for  his  work.  He  succeeded  in  getting  together  a 
goodly  supply  of  articles  needed  for  the  missions  and  three 
recruits  —  Father  Peter  De  Vos,  who  was  made  Vice-Su- 
perior of  the  Missions,  Father  Adrian  Hoeken,  and 
Brother  J.  B.  McGean.  Father  De  Smet  accompanied  the 
little  party  on  their  way  as  far  as  Westport,  going  by  the 
steamer  John  Auld.  Near  Glasgow,  May  ist,  they  saw  the 
distinguished  naturalist  Audubon,  who  was  on  the  American 
Fur  Company  boat  Omega  with  a  party  of  scientists  making 
an  exploration  of  the  Missouri.  During  Father  De  Smet's 
absence  three  more  recruits  arrived  from  Europe,  but  as 
they  were  too  late  for  the  expedition  they  waited  in  St. 
Louis  until  the  following  year. 

Immediately  upon  his  return  to  St.  Louis  Father  De 
Smet  set  out  for  Europe  and  after  a  voyage  of  twenty- 

[44] 


EUROPEAN    TRAVELS.  45 

one  days  landed  in  Ireland.  While  there  he  heard  that 
great  man,  Daniel  O'Connell,  speak,  and  he  records  the 
following-  incident  of  the  occasion,  which  impressed  him 
deeply  as  an  example  of  the  intense  feeling  of  the  Irish 
people  at  the  time:  ""An  old  woman  had  come  many  a 
mile  to  look  at  the  Liberator.  She  had  forced  her  way 
with  difficulty  through  the  immense  crowd;  she  had 
even  climbed  on  the  platform  from  whence  O'Connell 
spoke.  I  stood  near  him;  she  asked  me,  *  Is  this  the  man?  ' 
At  my  answering  yes,  she  pulled  his  coat  exclaiming, 
'Sir,  let  me  look  at  you!'  He  turned  with  a  smile  and' 
a  bow.  A  gift  of  a  thousand  pounds  could  not  have  been 
more  welcome  to  her.  An  old  man  had  also  reached  the 
carriage.  He  took  the  hand  of  the  Liberator  and  with 
tears  in  his  eyes  exclaimed  — '  I  have  come  far  to  see  you, 
Sir,  and  to  touch  this  hand;  now  I  am  happy  and  return 
home  rejoiced.'  As  the  man  retired  O'Connell  whispered 
aloud  —  '  What  a  nation ! '  His  broad  chest  heaved.  No 
doubt  his  benevolent  heart  answered  to  his  whispering  — 
'  They  must  be  free.'  " 

After  leaving  Ireland,  Father  De  Smet  traveled  through 
the  principal  cities  of  England,  France,  Italy,^  Holland 
and  Belgium,  and  embarked  at  Antwerp,  December  12th, 
with  four  fathers,  a  lay  brother  and  six  sisters,  together 
with  a  large  amount  of  supplies  for  the  missions.  They 
sailed  in  the  Infatigable  around  Cape  Horn  for  the  Colum- 
bia. Whether  the  vessel  was  chartered  for  the  purpose  of 
the  missions  does  not  appear,  but  in  any  case  she  sailed 

1  "  In  Rome,  when  presented  to  His  Holiness  Gregory  XVI  by  the 
Father-General  of  the  Society  of  Jesus,  the  Pope  rose  from  his  throne 
and  embraced  him.  But  the  cordial  greetings  were  not  long  an  un- 
mixed pleasure  for  the  soul  of  the  humble  missionary,  who  became 
much  alarmed  on  the  discovery  that  they  had  resolved  to  make  him  a 
bishop.  With  the  help  of  the  Father-General,  however,  he  succeeded 
in  throwing  the  burden  on  the  shoulders  of  the  Very  Rev.  F.  N. 
Blanchet,  who,  besides  being  in  every  way  qualified  for  the  Episcopal 
dignity,  was  his  senior  both  in  years  and  as  a  missionary  in  the  Rocky 
Mountains." —  Palladino. 


46  THE   VOYAGE    OF    THE    INFATIGABLE. 

directly  to  Father  De  Smet's  destination  without  other 
than  necessary  outfitting  delays  at  any  place.  They  were 
detained  at  Flushing  near  the  mouth  of  the  Scheld  twenty- 
eight  days  by  contrary  winds  and  did  not  finally  get  away 
until  January  9,  1844. 

The  story  of  this  voyage  of  seven  months,  as  told  by 
Father  De  Smet,  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  on  record. 
It  deals  with  all  the  incidents  of  the  journey,  the  varying 
moods  of  the  weather,  the  crossing  of  the  Equator  with  its 
time-honored  fun  and  frolic,  the  meeting  of  vessels  on  the 
lonely  ocean,  the  rise  of  the  southern  constellations  into 
view  and  their  disappearance  again,  and  a  great  variety  of 
other  subjects  which  so  long  a  voyage  brings  forth.  To 
a  man  of  Father  De  Smet's  temperament  everything  had 
an  interest  and  he  was  eminently  qualified  to  derive  the 
utmost  pleasure  possible  from  such  a  journey. 

Soon  after  passing  the  Horn  they  encountered  a  succes- 
sion of  terrific  storms  which  almost  drove  them  upon  the 
coast  of  Patagonia.  It  was  a  terrible  time,  but  the  danger 
was  met  with  consummate  skill  by  the  crew  and  with 
calm  resignation  by  the  passengers.  "  A  tempest  is  truly 
a  sublime  spectacle,"  says  Father  De  Smet  in  his  account 
of  the  storm,  "  but  the  description  is  infinitely  more  agree- 
able than  the  reality.  If  there  had  been  less  of  the  fright- 
ful about  it,  probably  I  should  have  enjoyed  it  more.  Such 
was  the  roaring  of  the  winds  and  waves  that  the  captain's 
voice,  even  through  the  trumpet,  could  hardly  be  dis- 
tinguished. The  waves  rose  in  pyramids  around  us,  and 
masses  of  water,  torn  off  by  the  fury  of  the  winds,  were 
hurled  upon  us  in  floods  that  filled  the  deck  with  foam. 
Never  in  any  of  my  voyages  had  I  seen  such  evidence  of 
the  might  of  wind  and  water,  nor  of  the  admirable  manner 
in  which  a  vessel  resists  the  fury  of  the  elements." 

The  Infatigahle  stopped  for  a  considerable  time  at  both 
Valparaiso  in  Chile  and  Callao  in  Peru,  and  Father  De 
Smet  visited  the  capitals  of  these  two  countries.  They  were 
full  of  interest  to  him  and  he  devotes  much  interesting 


THE    BAR    OF    THE    COLUMBIA.  47 

space  to  his  impressions  of  them.^  These  breaks  in  the 
long  journey  were  most  welcome  to  the  weary  passengers, 
who  spent  all  the  time  on  land.  On  the  27th  of  May, 
1844,  they  sailed  from  the  harbor  of  Callao  and  were  not  to 
land  again  until  at  the  end  of  their  voyage.  For  a  while 
the  winds  were  favorable  and  the  vessel  was  soon  back  on 
the  north  side  of  the  Equator.  Then  they  fell  into  a  zone 
of  calms  which  continued  until  both  passengers  and  crew 
were  well-nigh  exhausted.  Father  De  Smet  thus  refers 
to  these  miserable  experiences:  "Then  an  expression  of 
discouragement  and  melancholy  appears  on  the  captain's 
face  and  on  those  of  all  the  crew.  It  seems  as  if  one  were 
condemned  to  perish  here.  A  blackened  sea  all  around, 
a  somber  sky  above,  and  clouds  on  the  horizon,  like  im- 
penetrable obstacles,  changing  form  every  instant  and  call- 
ing to  mind  all  kinds  of  phantoms;  while  the  ship,  like 
a  weak  toy  upon  a  sea  in  torment,  swelling  and  sinking 
unceasingly,  rocks  and  rocks  until  the  head  and  stomach 
both  turn." 

Presently  they  came  to  regions  of  better  winds  and  the 
good  ship  resumed  her  speed.  It  was  high  time,  for  her 
supply  of  provisions  was  getting  low.  Finally,  on  the  28th 
of  July,  amid  general  exclamations  of  joy,  the  longed-for 
coast  of  Oregon  came  into  view  where  the  great  "  River 
of  the  West "  pours  its  tribute  into  the  sea.  But  scarcely 
had  the  first  outburst  of  joy  passed  when  the  ominous 
sight  of  the  rolling  breakers  at  the  mouth  of  the  river 
changed  all  to  gloomy  foreboding.  They  were  face  to 
face  with  one  of  the  greatest  of  maritime  dangers,  the 
bar  of  the  Columbia.  They  had  heard  of  its  terrors  — 
what  sailor  had  not? — but  it  required  actual  observation 
to  show  them  in  their  true  light.  Here  they  were  at  the 
end  of  their  voyage.  For  nearly  seven  months  they  had 
been  upon  the  sea  and  had  survived  its  calms  and  tempests. 
A  sail  of  two  hours  would  place  them  within  the  mouth  of 

2  See  p.  420  et  seq.  of  the  Letters. 


48  BACK    TO    THE    INDIANS. 

the  river;  but  to  get  there  they  must  brave  the  greatest 
peril  of  the  entire  voyage.  It  was  a  situation  that  caused 
the  stoutest  heart  to  sink. 

We  cannot  follow  the  good  ship  through  all  of  the  ex- 
periences of  the  next  three  days,  which  Father  De  Smet 
has  given  in  such  graphic  detail.  Suffice  it  to  say  that  the 
crew  misunderstood  warning  signals  from  the  shore,  sent 
a  boat  to  sound  the  channel,  received  a  favorable  report, 
set  out  to  cross  the  bar,  fell  into  the  wrong  channel,  were 
practically  aground  several  times,  but  by  the  most  ex- 
traordinary good  fortune  escaped  disaster  and  made  the 
passage  in  safety.  Little  wonder  that  such  a  providential 
escape,  coming  upon  the  Feast  Day  (July  31st),  of  the 
great  founder  of  the  Society  of  Jesus,  should  have  been 
ascribed  by  his  devoted  followers  to  his  watchful  guardian- 
ship. 

On  the  2d  of  August  Father  De  Smet  started  by  canoe 
for  Fort  Vancouver  to  announce  his  arrival  to  Bishop 
Blanchet  and  Dr.  McLoughlin.  The  bishop  happened  to 
be  absent  at  the  time  in  the  Willamette  valley,  but  was 
immediately  sent  for.  After  the  first  greetings  and  the 
delays  incident  upon  unloading  their  goods  from  the  ves- 
sel. Father  De  Smet  and  his  companions,  with  Father 
Blanchet,  started  for  the  Willamette  valley,  where,  ac- 
cording to  the  plan  agreed  upon  with  the  Father  General 
in  Rome,  a  central  mission  was  to  be  established.  After 
some  difficulty  in  selecting  a  site  the  work  was  begun. 
During  its  progress  an  alarming  epidemic  prevailed  and 
Father  De  Smet  was  for  a  time  dangerously  ill;  but  never- 
theless kept  his  hand  on  the  wheel  and  guided  the  rising 
establishment  through  its  initial  stages. 

With  an  ardent  longing  to  get  back  among  his  Indians  in 
the  mountains,  whom  he  had  not  seen  for  two  years,  Father 
De  Smet  left  the  Willamette  on  October  3d  for  the  upper 
country.  He  first  came  among  the  Kalispels  of  the  Bay, 
whom  he  had  promised  to  give  a  mission  two  years  before. 
They  were  accompanied  by  Father  Adrian  Hoeken.    They 


A    WINTER    IN    THE    MOUNTAINS.  49 

were  overjoyed  at  Father  De  Smet's  return  and  conducted 
him  to  their  camp  amid  volleys  of  musketry  and  every 
demonstration  of  rejoicing.  Then  began  a  general  inter- 
change of  news,  the  Indians  relating  what  had  happened 
in  the  past  two  years,  and  Father  De  Smet  relating  his 
wondrous  journeys  by  sea  and  land,  through  great  cities 
and  nations  and  over  vast  oceans.  To  the  simple  Indians 
he  must  indeed  have  seemed  like  an  envoy  from  the  Great 
Spirit  himself. 

Father  De  Smet  now  turned  his  attention  to  planting 
an  establishment  among  the  Kalispels  of  the  Bay,  this  last 
word  being  then  applied  to  a  great  bend  in  Clark's  Fork  of 
the  Columbia  river  some  forty  miles  above  its  mouth.  To 
this  reduction  the  name  St.  Ignatius  was  given.  It 
was  Father  De  Smet's  intention  to  visit  the  Flathead 
mission  that  fall  and  as  the  season  was  far  advanced  it 
was  necessary  for  him  to  set  out  at  once.  He  stopped  for 
a  time  at  the  new  mission,  the  Sacred  Heart,  among  the 
Coeur  d'Alenes,  and  then  continued  his  journey.  It  was 
the  19th  of  November  and  winter  in  the  mountains  was 
already  so  far  advanced  that  he  could  not  get  through. 
After  several  attempts,  he  was  compelled  to  return  and  he 
passed  the  winter  among  the  Kalispels  of  the  Bay. 

Early  in  February,  1845,  while  the  snow  was  yet  deep 
on  the  ground.  Father  De  Smet  started  for  St.  Mary's, 
thinking  he  could  make  the  journey  and  return  before  the 
spring  melting  should  come.  In  this  he  was  successful, 
and  he  got  back  to  the  Bay  just  as  the  snow-melting  had 
well  begun.  After  helping  start  the  new  buildings  for 
this  establishment,  he  went  to  Fort  Vancouver  and  the 
Willamette  for  further  supplies.  With  eleven  horses  laden 
with  implements  and  provisions  he  soon  started  back  to 
the  upper  country,  and  on  his  way  established  two  new 
stations  —  one  at  Kettle  Falls  and  the  other  at  Lake  de 
Boey. 

When  the  31st  of  July,  the  Feast  of  St.  Ignatius,  came, 
and  Father  De  Smet  reviewed  the  past  year,  he  could  not 
4 


50  A    MOVE    UPON    THE    BLACKFEET. 

but  feel  gratified  at  the  progress  that  had  been  made.  He 
says  in  one  of  his  letters:  "  Last  year  the  Feast  of  St. 
Ignatius  proved  for  me  a  day  of  danger,  trial  and  un- 
easiness. I  love  to  recall  it  to  my  mind,  for  it  terminated 
joyfully,  and  so  gloriously  that  I  know  my  companions 
can  never  forget  it,  and  they  will  return  lasting  thanks 
to  the  Almighty  for  the  display  of  his  mercy.  Without  a 
chart  or  any  knowledge  of  the  mouth  of  the  Columbia, 
we  traversed,  as  if  borne  on  angels'  wings,  the  bar  of  this 
formidable  river.  This  year  I  passed  the  Feast  of  St. 
Ignatius  amidst  many  occupations,  but  they  were  of  such 
a  nature  as  to  console  the  missionary's  heart,  and  repay 
him  a  hundred  fold  for  the  trifling  privations,  pains  and 
fatigues  he  endures." 

The  Blackfeet  Indians,  traditional  enemies  of  the  Flat- 
heads  and  other  tribes  among  which  De  Smet  was  operat- 
ing, were  at  this  time  giving  a  great  deal  of  trouble,  and 
even  menacing  the  continued  existence  of  St.  Mary's  Mis- 
sion. It  seemed  a  necessary  step  to  bring  about  some 
understanding  with  them.  Father  De  Smet,  in  his  ca- 
pacity of  spiritual  envoy  extraordinary,  assumed,  on  more 
than  one  occasion,  the  power  to  make  treaties  of  peace. 
With  an  admirable  common  sense  he  reasoned  that  peace 
could  never  be  objectionable  and  no  exceptions  could  be 
taken  by  the  Government  to  his  efforts  to  bring  it  about 
wherever  it  did  not  exist.  Accordingly  he  now  resolved 
to  make  a  personal  visit  to  the  Blackfeet  and  endeavor  to 
put  some  check  upon  their  warlike  operations.  He  trav- 
eled by  the  Canadian  route  which  took  him  far  to  the 
north.  It  would  have  been  much  easier  to  reach  the 
Blackfeet  by  going  from  the  Flatheads  direct  to  the  Mis- 
souri river,  and  the  only  reason  which  suggests  itself  for 
his  taking  the  course  he  did  was  to  visit  new  tribes  with 
a  view  of  spreading  his  work  as  widely  as  possible.  His 
mind  was  full  of  his  vast  design  of  building  up  in  this 
country  a  mighty  spiritual  empire  and  he  stopped  at  no 
hardships  to  carry  out  his  scheme.    He  speaks  of  "  taking 


THE    CHRISTIAN    THIRST    FOR    GOLD. 


5^ 


spiritual  possession  of  this  land,  which  was  now  for  the 
first  time  trodden  by  a  minister  of  the  Most  High."  It 
was  undoubtedly  this  purpose  that  led  him  to  take  the 
long  and  circuitous  route  that  he  did. 

Father  De  Smet  was  now  again  in  his  element  —  ex- 
ploring regions  new  to  him;  jotting  down  the  experiences 
of  each  day  in  order  that  he  might  send  them  forth  to 
the  world  where  they  would  bring  new  workers  to  his 
vineyard.  One  of  his  observations  at  this  time  has  become 
historical.  He  had  already  become  convinced  of  the 
presence  of  gold  and  silver  in  these  mountains;  but  know- 
ing what  its  discovery  by  the  whites  would  mean  to  the 
Indians,  he  had  kept  his  knowledge  to  himself.  He  thus 
refers  to  the  matter  in  a  letter  written  on  this  journey: 
"Poor  unfortunate  Indians!  They  trample  on  treasures 
unconscious  of  their  worth,  and  content  themselves  with 
the  fishery  and  chase.  When  these  resources  fail,  they 
subsist  upon  roots  and  herbs;  whilst  they  eye,  with  tranquil 
surprise,  the  white  man  examining  the  shining  pebbles  of 
their  territory.  Ah!  they  would  tremble  indeed  could  they 
learn  the  history  of  those  numerous  and  ill-fated  tribes 
that  have  been  swept  from  their  land,  to  make  place  for 
Christians  who  have  made  the  poor  Indians  the  victims  of 
their  rapacity." 

His  route,  which  is  given  in  detail  in  the  published 
itinerary  of  his  travels,  was,  in  general  terms,  up 
the  Kootenai  river  to  the  mouth  of  the  Vermillion  river; 
thence  across  the  Divide  to  the  sources  of  the  Saskatche- 
wan, and  thence  to  the  Rocky  Mountain  House,  a 
Hudson  Bay  trading  post  on  the  north  fork  of  that 
stream.  The  course  of  this  journey  had  taken  him  mo- 
mentarily across  to  the  lakes  at  the  source  of  the  Colum- 
bia. Here  occurred  one  of  those  interesting  rencontres 
which  were  so  frequent  in  his  experience.  He  found  there 
a  Canadian  family,  named  Morigeau,  sole  occupants  of 
this  empire  of  rugged  grandeur.  Morigeau  had  long  been 
without  a  priest  and  in  the  meanwhile  a  numerous  family 


52  A    MONARCH    OF    THE    DESERT. 

had  grown  up.  Upon  hearing  that  Father  De  Smet  was 
coming  his  way  he  hastened  home  to  make  ready  for  the 
baptism  of  his  wife  and  children.  When  the  priest  ar- 
rived, "  the  august  sacrifice  of  the  mass  was  offered  and 
Morigeau  devoutly  approached  the  holy  table.  At  the 
foot  of  the  humble  altar  he  received  the  nuptial  bene- 
diction; and  the  mother,  surrounded  by  her  children  and 
six  little  Indians,  was  regenerated  in  the  holy  waters  of 
baptism." 

The  presence  of  this  Canadian  family  in  such  a  place, 
cut  ofif  from  all  the  world,  appealed  to  the  romantic  side 
of  Father  De  Smet's  nature  and  he  thus  unburdened 
himself  in  their  regard:  "  The  Canadian!  Into  what  part 
of  the  desert  has  he  not  penetrated?  The  monarch  who 
rules  at  the  source  of  the  Columbia  is  an  honest  emigrant 
from  St.  Martin  in"  the  district  of  Montreal,  who  has  re- 
sid-ed  for  twenty-six  years  in  this  wilderness.  The  skins 
of  the  rein  and  moose  deer  are  the  materials  of  which  his 
portable  palace  is  composed;  and  to  use  his  own  expres- 
sions, he  '  embarks  '  on  horseback  with  his  wife  and  seven 
children,  and  '  lands '  wherever  he  pleases.  Here  no  one 
disputes  his  right,  and  Polk  and  Peel,  who  are  now  con- 
tending for  the  possession  of  his  dominions,  are  as  un- 
known to  him  as  the  two  greatest  powers  of  the  moon. 
His  sceptre  is  a  beaver  trap,  his  law  a  carbine;  and  with 
the  one  on  his  back,  the  other  on  his  arm,  he  reviews  his 
numerous  furry  subjects  —  the  beaver,  otter,  muskrat, 
marten,  fox,  bear,  wolf,  sheep  and  white  goat  of  the 
mountains,  *  *  *  some  of  which  respect  his  sceptre 
and  others  submit  to  "his  law.  He  exacts  and  receives 
from  them  the  tribute  of  flesh  and  skins.  Encircled  by 
so  much  grandeur,  undisturbed  proprietor  of  all  these  sky- 
ward palaces  and  strongholds,  the  very  last  refuge  which 
Nature  has  reared  to  preserve  alive  liberty  on  earth  — 
solitary  lord  of  these  majestic  mountains  that  elevate  their 
icy  summits  tt>  the  clouds, —  Morigeau  (our  Canadian) 
does  not  forget  his  duty  as  a  Christian.     Each  day,  mom- 


IN    THE    FROZEN    NORTH.  53 

ing  and  evening,  he  may  be  seen  devoutly  reciting  his 
prayers  in  the  midst  of  his  Httle  family." 

From  Rocky  Momitain  House  Father  De  Smet  made  a 
long  excursion  to  the  south  in  search  of  the  Blackfeet; 
but  winter  had  come,  the  snow  obliterated  the  trail  of  the 
Indians,  and  after  intense  suffering  he  returned  to  Rocky 
Mountain  House  and  went  thence  to  Fort  Augustus  in 
latitude  53°  30'  north,  where  he  arrived  on  the  last  day 
of  the  year  1845. 

He  spent  the  winter  at  Fort  Augustus,  making  one  trip 
to  St.  Anne  Mission  in  that  vicinity.  As  soon  as  the  ap- 
proach of  spring  held  out  a  prospect  of  getting  back 
across  the  mountains,  he  left  for  Fort  Assiniboin  on  the 
Athabasca  river,  traveling  on  a  sled  drawn  by  four  dogs. 
He  left  Fort  Assiniboin  on  the  12th  of  March,  1846,  and 
went  a  long  step  farther  to  Fort  Jasper,  traveling  on  the 
ice  of  the  river.  Here  he  remained  until  the  25th  of  April 
and  then  set  out  on  the  hazardous  journey  across  the 
mountains.  With  numerous  delays  here  and  there,  owing 
to  the  early  season,  the  little  party  made  their  w^ay  across 
the  pass  to  the  point  called  Boat  Encampment  where  the 
Canoe  river  enters  the  Columbia.  This  was  undoubtedly 
the  severest  test  of  his  physical  powers  to  which  Father 
De  Smet  was  ever  subjected.  A  large  part  of  the  way  he 
had  to  w^ade  the  ic}^  waters  of  the  streams.  He  lost  the 
nails  of  his  toes  and  was  so  much  affected  otherwise  that 
he  declares  he  would  surely  have  succumbed  but  for  the 
aid  of  a  small  band  of  Indians  whom  they  encountered. 
It  had  been  the  opinion  of  the  people  at  Fort  Augustus 
that  Father  De  Smet's  weight  was  too  great  to  permit 
him  to  make  the  journey,  much  of  which  would  have  to 
be  upon  snowshoes.  But  with  quick  resolution  he  set  out 
to  reduce  his  flesh  by  a  rigorous  fast  of  thirty  days  and 
was  measurably  successful.  After  he  started,  the  scant 
supply  of  provisions  gave  him  no  opportunity  to  regain 
his  weight. 


54  AMONG   THE   WARRING   TRIBES. 

The  long  journey  that  remained  was  made  in  compara- 
tive ease.  He  was  back  at  Fort  Colville  near  the  end  of 
May  and  went  thence  to  Fort  Vancouver  and  the  Wil- 
lamette. 

The  large  extent  of  the  work  now  established  made  it 
necessary  that  additional  aid  be  sought  from  the  States 
or  from  Europe  and  it  was  unanimously  the  opinion  of  the 
missionaries  that  Father  De  Smet  should  go.  Outfitting 
himself  with  supplies  for  the  stations  in  the  upper  country, 
he  set  out  from  Fort  Vancouver  to  visit  them  and  then 
to  go  on  to  the  States.  He  arrived  at  St.  Mary's  Mission 
about  August  loth,  and  left  there  on  the  i6th.  As  his 
mission  of  the  previous  winter  had  miscarried,  so  far  as 
making  peace  with  the  Blackfeet  was  concerned,  he  re- 
solved to  try  to  accomplish  that  desirable  object  on  his 
way  home. 

It  happened  that  a  considerable  body  of  the  Flatheads 
with  thirty  lodges  of  Nez  Perces  and,  strange  to  say,  a 
few  lodges  of  Blackfeet,  were  at  this  time  in  the  Yellow- 
stone valley  on  the  borders  of  the  Crow  country.  The 
Crows  were  at  war  with  both  the  Blackfeet  and  Nez 
Perces,  and  perceiving  their  own  strength  to  be  greater 
than  that  of  the  united  camp,  were  eager  to  attack  it. 
At  the  urgent  interposition  of  the  Flatheads  they  deferred 
action  for  a  time.  Father  De  Smet,  when  he  discovered 
that  there  were  both  Nez  Perces  and  Blackfeet  with  the 
Flatheads,  foresaw  what  would  probably  happen  should 
they  meet  the  Crows,  and  accordingly  dispatched  his  in- 
terpreters, Gabriel  and  Charles,  at  their  utmost  speed  to 
announce  his  approach.  This  had  some  effect,  and  the 
Crow  chiefs  made  a  strong  effort  to  repress  the  turbulent 
spirit  of  their  camp.  But  the  strain  was  too  great  to  be 
resisted  and  on  the  following  day  they  attacked  the  allied 
camp  with  great  impetuosity.  Anticipating  the  attack, 
the  allies  had  fortified  themselves  and  were  able  to  repulse 
it  without  loss.  At  the  opportune  moment,  when  their 
enemy  was  in  disorder,  they  delivered  a  counter-charge 


THE    BLACKFEET    CONVINCED.  55 

which  completely  routed  them.  Fourteen  of  their  war- 
riors were  slain  while  the  allied  camp  lost  but  one  man  — 
a  Nez  Perce.  The  Crows  fled  entirely  out  of  reach  and 
Father  De  Smet  was  unable  to  communicate  with  them, 
though  he  ardently  desired  to  do  so  and  heal  the  unfortu- 
nate rupture  that  had  taken  place. 

The  valiant  conduct  of  the  Flatheads  made  a  deep  im- 
pression upon  the  Blackfeet  and  paved  the  way  for  the 
desired  peace  between  the  two  tribes.  "  Shortly  after  my 
arrival,"  says  Father  De  Smet,  "  the  Blackfeet  came  in  a 
body  to  my  lodge,  to  express  in  a  manner  truly  eloquent 
their  admiration  of  the  Flatheads,  with  whom  in  future 
they  desired  to  live  on  terms  of  the  closest  friendship. 
'  To  their  prayers,'  said  they, '  must  this  extraordinary  vic- 
tory be  attributed.  While  the  battle  lasted,  we  saw  their 
old  men,  their  women  and  children,  on  their  knees  im- 
ploring the  aid  of  heaven.  The  Flatheads  did  not  lose  a 
single  man;  one  only  fell,  a  young  Nez  Perce,  and  an- 
other was  mortally  wounded.  But  the  Nez  Perces  did 
not  pray.  We  prayed  morning  and  evening  with  the  Flat- 
heads,  and  heard  the  instructions  of  the  chiefs.'  Then 
they  begged  of  me  in  their  own  affecting  way  to  take  pity 
on  them  and  be  charitable  to  them.  They  now  determined 
to  hear  the  words  of  the  Great  Manitou  of  the  whites." 

The  allied  camp  then  set  out  in  a  northwesterly  direction 
to  the  buffalo  country  in  the  Judith  Basin  and  thence  to 
Fort  Lewis  which  was  later  named  Fort  Benton.  The  inci- 
dents of  this  trip,  the  jealousies  of  the  tribes,  the  constant 
exercise  of  diplomacy  to  meet  their  various  whims,  the  grow- 
ing admiration  of  the  Blackfeet  for  the  black-gown  and  his 
religion,  and  finally  a  peace  between  these  Indians  and  the 
Flatheads,  occupy  many  pages  in  Father  De  Smet's  letters. 
His  plan  was  successful  and  paved  the  way  to  founding  a 
mission  among  this  always  dreaded  tribe.  With  this  result 
accomplished,  it  was  decided  that  Father  Point  should  re- 
main with  the  tribe  and  himself  go  on  to  St.  Louis. 

Father  De  Smet  left  Fort  Lewis  September  28th,  travel- 
ing by  skiff  on  the  long  journey  of  2,200  miles.    Naturally 


56  DE  SMET    AND    THE    MORMONS. 

it  was  full  of  interesting  incident  as  they  passed  the  various 
posts  and  Indian  tribes  along  the  way  and  these  are  recorded 
in  great  detail  in  the  letters.  We  shall  pass  them  by  here  and 
note  only  one  of  unusual  character,  the  meeting  with  the 
Mormons  at  Council  Bluffs.  Father  De  Smet  saw  much  of 
these  people.  He  naturally  shared  the  popular  prejudice 
against  what  seemed  a  spurious  religion,  but  he  sympathized 
with  them  in  the  persecutions  which  had  virtually  exiled 
them  from  the  United  States.  He  became  well  acquainted 
with  Young  and  it  is  possible  that  the  information  he  gave 
him  may  have  influenced  that  leader  in  choosing  Salt  Lake 
Valley  as  the  future  home  of  his  people.  The  following 
reference  from  his  letter  will  be  of  interest : 

"  In  the  fall  of  1846,  as  I  drew  near  to  the  frontier  of 
the  State  of  Missouri,  I  found  the  advance  guard  of  the 
Mormons,  numbering  about  10,000,  camped  in  the  terri- 
tory of  the  Omahas,  not  far  from  the  old  Council  Bluffs. 
They  had  just  been  driven  out  for  the  second  time  from  a 
state  of  the  Union.  They  had  resolved  to  winter  on  the 
threshold  of  the  great  desert,  and  then  to  move  onward  into 
it  to  put  distance  between  themselves  and  their  persecutors, 
without  even  knowing  at  that  time  the  goal  of  their  long 
wanderings,  nor  the  spot  where  they  should  once  more  build 
for  themselves  permanent  dwellings.  They  asked  me  a  thou- 
sand questions  about  the  regions  I  had  explored  and  the  spot 
which  I  have  just  described  to  you  [the  basin  of  Great  Salt 
Lake]  pleased  them  greatly  from  the  account  I  gave  them 
of  it.  Was  that  what  determined  them  ?  I  would  not  dare 
to  assert  it.  They  are  there.  In  the  last  three  years  Utah 
has  changed  its  aspect,  and  from  a  desert  has  become  a 
flourishing  territory  which  will  soon  become  one  of  the 
states  of  the  Union." 

Father  De  Smet  reached  the  University  of  St.  Louis  De- 
cember 10,  1846,  three  years  and  six  months  after  his  de- 
parture in  the  opposite  direction. 

It  is  worth  while  to  consider  here  what  Father  De  Smet 
had  accomplished  in  the  past  seven  years.  His  prodigious 
labors,  travels,  hardships  and  perils  must  be  placed  in  the 


HARDSHIPS    AND    ACHIEVEMENTS.  5/ 

very  first  rank  of  similar  exploits.  In  these  seven  years  he 
had  traveled,  by  the  slow  methods  of  the  time,  a  distance 
equal  to  more  than  twice  the  circumference  of  the  earth. 
He  had  traveled  in  almost  every  clime  and  by  every  sort  of 
conveyance.  From  the  burning  summer  of  the  Equator  he 
had  passed  to  the  frozen  winters  of  54°  30'  north.  He  had 
traveled  by  sailing  vessel,  by  river  barge  and  by  canoe;  by 
dog  sled  and  snow  shoe;  on  horseback  and  in  wagon;  and 
many  a  long  mile  on  foot.  He  had  endured  hardships  that 
seem  to  us  almost  impossible  and  which  undoubtedly  were 
the  foundation  of  the  ills  he  later  suffered.  It  was  to  the 
period  of  1844-6  that  he  referred  in  a  letter  to  a  fellow 
missionary  who  was  complaining  of  the  hardship  of  his  lot : 
"  I  have  been  for  years  a  wanderer  in  the  desert.  I  was  three 
years  without  receiving  a  letter  from  any  quarter.  I  was 
two  years  in  the  mountains,  without  tasting  bread,  salt, 
coffee,  tea,  sugar.  I  was  for  years  without  a  roof,  without 
a  bed.  I  have  been  six  months  without  a  shirt  on  my  back, 
and  often  have  I  passed  whole  days  and  nights  without  a 
morsel  of  anything  to  eat." 

The  results  of  his  labors,  from  a  missionary  point  of  view, 
were  highly  successful.  The  whole  Columbia  valley  had 
been  dotted  with  infant  establishments,  some  of  which  had 
taken  on  the  promise  of  permanent  growth.  He  had  indeed 
laid  the  foundation  well  for  a  spiritual  empire  throughout 
that  region,  and  but  for  the  approach  of  emigration  his 
plans  would  have  brought  forth  the  full  fruition  that  he  ex- 
pected. 

But  most  important  of  all,  from  a  public  point  of  view, 
was  the  fact  that  he  had  become  a  great  power  among  the 
Indian  tribes.  All  now  knew  him,  many  personally,  the 
rest  by  reputation.  He  was  the  one  white  man  in  whom 
they  had  implicit  faith.  The  Government  was  beginning  to 
look  to  him  for  assistance.  The  IMormon,  the  Forty-niner, 
the  Oregon  emigrant  came  to  him  for  information  and  ad- 
vice. His  writings  were  already  known  on  two  continents 
and  his  name  was  a  familiar  one,  at  least  in  the  religious 
world. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

THE   GREAT    COUNCIL   OF    185I. 

Trials  and  discouragements  —  Restlessness  of  the  Plains  tribes  — 
Government  decides  to  hold  council  —  De  Smet  asked  to  go  —  Voyage 
of  the  St.  Ange  —  Cholera  on  board  —  Death  of  Father  Hoeken  — 
Arrival  at  Fort  Union  —  Departure  on  overland  journey  to  Fort  Lara- 
mie —  Fort  Alexander  —  Lake  De  Smet  —  The  Oregon  trail  —  Arrival 
at  the  council  ground  —  Proceedings  of  the  council  —  Return  to  St. 
Louis. 

♦ITT  is  a  fact  not  easily  explained  that  Father  De  Smet  never 
"  again  returned  to  his  great  field  of  missionary  work, 
nor  ever  revisited  those  regions  except  twice,  and  both  times 
upon  other  business.  And  yet  we  have  his  repeated  state- 
ments that  it  was  the  cherished  desire  of  his  heart  to  spend 
the  remainder  of  his  days  among  his  dear  Indians,  and  he 
undoubtedly  sought,  as  much  as  he  could  consistently  with 
his  vows,  to  bring  about  such  a  result.  "  I  am  like  a  soldier," 
he  wrote  to  a  friend.  "  When  I  receive  orders  I  march 
whither  I  am  sent.  Yet,  like  a  soldier,  I  may  have  my  prefer- 
ences, and  I  need  not  tell  you  that  these  are  decidedly  for  the 
Indian  country."  And  again :  "  I  regret  very  much  the 
plains,  the  Indians  and  the  wilderness  with  all  their  priva- 
tions, miseries  and  dangers.  They  were  treats  indeed  com- 
pared with  the  monotony  with  which  I  am  surrounded." 
Again,  in  a  very  feeling  letter  to  the  Father  General,  he  im- 
plores the  privilege  of  being  sent  away  to  some  obscure 
mission  there  to  spend  the  remainder  of  his  days. 

The  "  monotony  "  which  Father  De  Smet  complains  of 
undoubtedly  relates  to  the  character  of  the  duties  with  which 
he  was  charged  during  the  greater  part  of  his  life  as  an 
ordained  priest.  He  occupied  almost  continuously  the  posi- 
tion of  procurator  of  the  Province,  an  office  which  related 

[58] 


ACTIVE   LIFE   VS.    CLERICAL    WORK.  59 

exclusively  to  the  financial  affairs  of  the  Church.  His  great 
ability  in  securing  contributions  and  in  managing  the  always 
difficult  task  of  their  distribution  made  him  admirably  fitted 
for  this  work.  But  it  was  personally  distasteful  to  him.  "  I 
hold  the  general  purse,"  he  once  wrote,  "  and  have  to  supply 
all  needs ;  and  this  purse  is  never  full ;  the  greater  part  of  the 
time  it  is  flat;  while  I  receive  demands  from  all  sides."  In 
another  letter  to  a  distant  friend  he  wrote :  "  Probably  we 
shall  never  again  see  each  other  on  this  side  of  the  grave. 
I  hope  we  shall  meet  in  heaven  where  all  ciphering,  quibbling 
and  account-making  are  at  an  end." 

But  the  principal  reason  why  Father  De  Smet  was  not 
permitted  personally  to  conduct  his  missions  was  a  growing 
feeling  in  Rome  that  he  was  planning  on  too  large  a  scale; 
that  the  ends  would  not  justify  the  means.  It  had  been  re- 
ported to  the  Father  General  by  other  parties,  that  the  field 
of  work  was  not  at  all  what  had  been  represented,  and  that 
De  Smet's  descriptions  were  poetical  flights  of  the  imagina- 
tion and  not  true  pictures  of  the  situation.-'  Father  De 
Smet  was  deeply  hurt  at  these  accusations  but  promptly 
and  vigorously  defended  himself,  to  the  apparent  satisfaction 
of  the  Father  General;  for  soon  after  sending  his  reply  to 
the  charges  against  him  he  speaks  with  great  satisfaction  of 
the  certain  prospect  before  him  of  spending  the  rest  of  his 
life  among  the  Indians. 

1 "  When  you  were  my  Superior,  you  frequently  corrected  me  for 
being  too  easily  dejected  when  things  were  said  against  me,  to 
which  I  must  plead  guilty.  Something  of  the  kind  has  occurred  again, 
and  from  headquarters,  which  has  brought  me  low  indeed  —  the  mere 
so  as  I  have  the  full  conviction  in  my  heart  that  the  charges  against 
me  are  untrue,  false  and  unjust,  and  bring  along  great  evil  in  their 
train  —  the  neglect,  in  a  great  measure,  of  the  Indians,  for  whom  I 
would  gladly  have  sacrificed  the  remainder  of  my  days.  I  stand 
accused  of  the  following:  ist.  That  my  letters  have  done  a  great 
deal  of  harm  in  America ;  2d.  That  they  are  only  imagination  and 
poetry,  false  and  untrue;  3d.  That  I  have  lost  the  mission  by  over- 
liberality  to  the  Indians,  and  by  promises  to  them  which  the  fathers 
have  been  unable  to  fulfill." 

Letter  to  Bishop  Van  de  Velde,  Baltimore. 


60  CONDITIONS    CHANGING. 

Immediately  after  his  return  to  St.  Louis  in  1846,  he 
went  to  New  Orleans,  returning  in  January,  1847,  ^^^  later 
in  the  year  made  a  journey  to  Europe  returning  to  America 
in  midsummer,  1848.  He  was  then  sent  on  an  expedition  to 
the  Sioux  country  and  returned  to  St.  Louis  late  in  De- 
cember. The  years  1849  ^"^  1850  were  spent  in  St.  Louis 
except  for  several  journeys  in  the  capacity  of  Socius  with 
the  Father  Provincial  to  Catholic  institutions  in  various 
parts  of  the  country. 

Here  again  we  come  upon  an  obscure  spot  in  Father  De 
Smet's  life.  It  is  apparent  that  he  now  saw  before  him  the 
long-wished-for  opportunity  of  spending  the  rest  of  his  life 
among  the  Indians.  He  repeatedly  refers  to  this  fact  in  his 
letters,  but  always  without  explanation.  Just  before  leaving 
St.  Louis  on  the  expedition  of  185 1,  which  we  shall  next 
relate,  he  wrote  the  words  already  quoted :  "  Probably  we 
shall  never  again  see  each  other  on  this  side  of  the  grave." 
In  another  letter  wTitten  at  the  same  time  he  says  that  he 
expects  never  to  return.  Upon  what  he  based  these  expecta- 
tions or  what  brought  about  their  prompt  non-fulfillment, 
we  do  not  know,  except  that  upon  the  very  eve  of  departure 
he  received  a  letter  from  the  Father  General  disapproving  his 
plan  of  going  among  the  Indians.  Preparations  were,  how- 
ever, too  far  advanced  to  be  countermanded,  and  his  su- 
periors in  St.  Louis  decided  that  he  should  at  least  attend 
the  Indian  council  which  the  Government  had  decided  to 
hold  that  summer  and  at  which  Father  De  Smet  had  prom- 
ised to  assist. 

The  great  rush  of  emigrants  to  Oregon  which  began  in 
the  early  Forties  and  kept  on  increasing  year  after  year ;  and 
the  immeasurable  tide  that  swept  over  the  plains  as  a  result 
of  the  discovery  of  gold  in  California,  wrought  a  profound 
change  of  conditions  in  the  western  country.  The  Indian 
saw  his  once  undisputed  domain  slipping  steadily  from  his 
grasp.  He  became  restless  and  discontented.  It  was  ap- 
parent that  trouble  might  arise  at  any  time  and  it  became 
necessary  to  take  some  measures  to  avoid  it.     To  that  end 


ENTERS    THE    NATIONAL    FIELD.  6l 

it  was  proposed,  largely  at  the  instance  of  D.  D.  Mitchell, 
Superintendent  of  Indian  Affairs  at  St.  Louis,  to  hold  a 
general  council  of  all  the  Western  tribes  east  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains  and  come  to  some  understanding  in  view  of  the 
changed  conditions.  This  plan  was  approved  by  the  Gov- 
ernment and  the  year  1851  was  fixed  upon.  Colonel 
Mitchell,  to  whom  the  actual  work  of  the  council  was  en- 
trusted, earnestly  besought  the  aid  of  Father  De  Smet,  and 
his  superiors  consented  that  he  should  go.  Thus  began  the 
long  and  valuable  service  which  Father  De  Smet,  in  the 
capacity  of  pacificator,  rendered  the  Government  of  the 
United  States  during  the  remaining  years  of  his  life. 

It  was  in  connection  with  this  expedition  that  Father  De 
Smet,  in  the  letters  quoted,  speaks  of  never  returning  again. 
It  was  his  plan,  after  attending  the  council,  to  go  on  to  the 
missions  and  remain  there  the  rest  of  his  life.  With  him 
on  this  expedition  was  Father  Christian  Hoeken,  one  of  the 
most  efficient  of  the  early  missionaries.  They  left  St.  Louis 
June  7,  185 1,  on  one  of  the  finest  boats  ever  on  the  river, 
the  St.  Ange,  commanded  by  the  distinguished  pilot,  Father 
De  Smet's  fast  friend.  Captain  Joseph  La  Barge.  Disaster 
attended  the  first  part  of  the  voyage.  Cholera  had  been 
prevalent  throughout  the  country  for  several  years  and  was 
particularly  bad  this  year.  The  spring  floods  of  the  Mis- 
souri had  been  high,  the  bottoms  much  overflowed,  and 
malarial  conditions  were  bad.  Three  days  after  leaving  port 
the  cholera  broke  out  on  board  and  raged  with  great  fatality 
for  the  next  ten  days.  In  the  meanwhile  Father  De  Smet 
was  seized  with  a  malarial  fever  which  itself  came  near 
proving  fatal.  He  had  besought  Father  Hoeken  to  hear  his 
confession,  when  that  priest  was  suddenly  seized  with  the 
cholera.  Father  De  Smet,  barely  able  to  drag  himself  to  the 
bedside  of  his  companion,  administered  the  last  sacraments 
and  the  good  father  passed  away  on  the  19th  of  June.  It 
was  a  great  blow  to  Father  De  Smet,  for  Father  Hoeken 
was  one  of  his  most  cherished  friends. 


62  PROBLEM    OF    THE   INDIAN'S    DESTINY. 

As  soon  as  the  boat  had  gotten  above  the  flooded  district 
and  into  a  dryer  atmosphere  it  was  unloaded  and  thoroughly 
aired  and  the  rest  of  the  voyage  passed  off  without  further 
sickness. 

As  the  boat  threaded  its  way  up  the  winding  Missouri, 
amid  scenes  of  rural  beauty  and  the  luxuriance  of  a  fertile 
country,  Father  De  Smet  could  not  but  ponder  upon  the 
changes  which  were  on  the  eve  of  taking  place.  He  was 
on  his  way  even  then  to  assist  at  a  council  which  was  to  offer 
some  temporary  relief  to  an  ever  troublesome  problem.  In 
his  narrative  of  this  journey  he  writes :  "  Will  not  the 
President  of  the  Republic,  like  some  of  his  predecessors, 
pluck  some  plumes  from  the  Indian  eagle,  once  the  emblem 
of  their  greatness  and  power,  to  place  them  among  the 
trophies  of  his  administration?  In  the  limits  which  I  trace 
he  will  find  an  extent  of  country  vast  enough  to  be  repre- 
sented by  three  or  four  stars  more  of  the  first  magnitude, 
which  will  enhance  the  lustre  of  the  galaxy  in  the  flag  of  the 
Union.  This  great  territory  will  hold  an  immense  popula- 
tion, destined  to  form  several  great  and  flourishing  States. 

"  But  then,  what  will  become  of  the  Indians,  who  have 
already  come  from  afar  to  abide  in  this  land?  What  will 
become  of  the  aborigines,  who  have  possessed  it  from  time 
immemorial?  This  is  indeed  a  thorny  question,  awakening 
gloomy  ideas  in  the  observer's  mind,  if  he  has  followed  the 
encroaching  policy  of  the  United  States  in  regard  to  the 
Indian.  We  may  hope  that  the  sad  remnant  of  these  nu- 
merous nations  who  once  covered  America,  now  reduced  to 
earn  their  bread  in  the  sweat  of  their  brow  (for  they  can 
no  longer  subsist  by  hunting),  will  find  an  asylum,  a  per- 
manent abode,  and  will  be  incorporated,  with  the  rights  of 
citizens,  into  the  Union." 

The  vS"^.  Ange  arrived  at  Fort  Union  on  the  14th  of  July, 
and  preparations  were  begun  for  the  journey  overland  to 
Fort  Laramie,  where  the  great  council  was  to  be  held.  It 
was  a  common  experience  in  Father  De  Smet's  career  that 
important  events  in  his  work  occurred  on  the  31st  of  July, 
the  feast  day  of  the  founder  of  the  Society.     So  now  the 


THE    MEDICINE    ROAD    OF    THE    WHITES.  63 

considerable  party  of  Indians  and  white  men  started  on  their 
long  and  important  journey  upon  that  day.  There  were 
representatives  from  the  Assiniboins,  Minnetarees  and 
Crows  and  the  party  consisted  in  all  of  thirty-two  men. 
Their  route  took  them  across  the  desolate  waste  west  of  the 
Yellowstone  river  in  eastern  Montana  to  Fort  Alexander, 
which  Father  De  Smet  had  visited  twice  or  three  times  be- 
fore. Thence  they  made  their  way  southwardly,  along  the 
eastern  base  of  the  Bighorn  mountains  to  the  Platte  river 
near  the  present  town  of  Casper,  Wyoming.  At  this  point 
they  came  upon  the  Oregon  Trail,  which  was  then  the  route 
of  the  vast  emigration  that  v/as  on  its  way  to  California  and 
Oregon.  It  was  an  impressive  sight,  even  to  white  men,  and 
as  to  the  Indians,  let  Father  De  Smet  tell  of  its  effect  upon 
them : 

"  Our  Indian  companions,  who  had  never  seen  but  the 
narrow  hunting-paths,  by  which  they  transport  themselves 
and  their  lodges,  were  filled  with  admiration  on  seeing  this 
noble  highway,  which  is  as  smooth  as  a  barn-floor  swept  by 
the  winds,  and  not  a  blade  of  grass  can  shoot  up  on  it  on 
account  of  the  continual  passing.  They  conceived  a  high 
idea  of  the  countless  White  Nation,  as  they  express  it.  They 
fancied  that  all  had  gone  over  that  road,  and  that  an  im- 
mense void  must  exist  in  the  land  of  the  rising  sun.  Their 
countenances  testified  evident  incredulity  when  I  told  them 
that  their  exit  was  in  nowise  perceived  in  the  lands  of  the 
whites.  They  styled  the  route  the  great  medicine  road  of  the 
whites.  *  *  *  They  visited  and  examined  in  detail  all 
the  forsaken  camping-grounds  on  the  way;  they  brought  a 
great  variety  of  objects  to  me  to  have  their  use  and  signifi- 
cation explained ;  they  filled  their  pouches  with  knives,  forks, 
spoons,  basins,  coffee-pots  and  other  cooking  articles,  axes, 
hammers,  etc.  With  the  bits  of  earthenware  which  bore  any 
figure  or  inscription,  they  fabricated  some  ornament  for  their 
necks  and  ears.  How  wonderful  will  be  the  accounts  given 
of  the  great  medicine  road  by  our  unsophisticated  Indians 
when  they  go  back  to  their  villages  and  sit  in  the  midst  of 
an  admiring  circle  of  relatives." 


64  THE    GREAT    PEACE    COUNCIL. 

This  great  California  movement  was  a  source  of  deep 
interest  to  Fattier  De  Smet.  When  in  St.  Louis  not  a  day 
passed,  he  tells  us,  that  some  one  did  not  come  to  ask  his 
advice  about  going  thither.  He  generally  discouraged  them, 
or  at  least  advised  extreme  deliberation  in  undertaking  such 
a  step.  He  had  witnessed  so  much  suffering  and  disappoint- 
ment in  these  migrations  that  he  could  not  see  an  intending 
emigrant  depart  without  wishing  him  to  give  it  up.  And 
now  along  the  great  Trail  he  saw  for  himself  the  true  mean- 
ing of  such  a  journey,  in  the  relics  cast  away  by  the  emi- 
grants, in  the  graves  of  those  who  had  perished  by  the  way, 
and  in  many  returning  parties  who  had  found  their  hopes  of 
fortune  to  be  only  barren  dreams. 

After  striking  the  Oregon  Trail  the  party  marched  east- 
ward to  Fort  Laramie,  where  they  found  that  the  council 
was  to  be  held  in  the  valley  of  Horse  Creek  still  thirty  miles 
farther  on.  The  next  day  this  additional  journey  was  made 
and  the  whole  party,  with  the  several  representatives  of  the 
Government  and  some  ten  thousand  Indians,  were  gathered 
together  in  the  plain.  The  council  with  its  attendant  inci- 
dents lasted  from  the  12th  to  the  23d  of  September,  and 
was  terminated  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  concerned.  Great 
harmony  prevailed.  All  features  of  the  troublesome  situa- 
tion were  discussed  and  earnest  effort  was  made  to  reach 
some  good  result.  The  principal  men  among  the  whites 
were  D.  D.  Mitchell,  Robert  Campbell,  Thomas  Fitzpatrick 
and  Father  De  Smet,  although  the  latter  had  no  official 
powers.  The  treaties  formed  with  the  various  tribes  recog- 
nized the  right  of  the  whites  to  cross  their  lands  with  roads, 
etc. ;  recompensed  the  Indians  for  losses  sustained,  and  pro- 
vided payments  for  losses  in  the  future.  On  the  20th  of 
September  an  immense  quantity  of  goods  arrived  for  dis- 
tribution as  presents  to  the  Indians  and  gave  them  great 
satisfaction. 

Father  De  Smet  attended  the  council  from  beginning 
to  end.  He  used  his  great  influence  with  the  tribes  to 
promote  a  satisfactory  understanding  and  he  labored  in- 


A    YEAR    OF    SADNESS.  6$ 

cessantly  for  their  spiritual  and  temporal  welfare.  His 
dignified  and  unselfish  bearing  won  their  hearts  and  his 
presence  was  a  power  among  them. 

The  council  broke  up  September  24th  and  the  members 
of  the  commission  started  for  the  east.  Father  De  Smet 
turned  off  from  the  main  road  on  his  way  and  visited  the 
Mission  of  St.  Mary's,  in  Kansas.  He  reached  St.  Louis 
on  the  2 1  St  of  October. 

Upon  his  return  home  he  found  that  his  dear  friend, 
Father  Provincial  Elet,  had  died.  These  two  losses, 
Father  Hoeken  and  Father  Elet,  were  a  great  sorrow  to 
him  and,  added  to  the  failure  of  his  plan  of  going  among 
the  Indians,  made  the  year  1851  one  of  gloom  to  the  good 
missionary.  Only  a  year  later  we  find  him  ready  to  return 
to  his  native  land  to  remain  there,  for  it  doubtless  seemed 
to  him  that  his  long-cherished  hopes  were  doomed  to  dis- 
appointment. There  seems  to  have  been  some  plan  on 
foot  to  this  end  emanating  from  his  superiors.  He  thus 
refers  to  it:  "In  so  far  as  this  plan  regards  me,  I  will 
speak  openly  to  you.  I  have  nothing  whatever  to  do  with 
their  choice,  nor  with  the  adoption  of  the  plan.  I  affirm, 
nevertheless,  that  I  am  ready  to  execute  in  all  things  the 
will  of  my  superiors.  I  will  even  admit  to  you,  that  in 
my  secret  soul,  and  after  mature  reflection  and  much 
prayer,  I  desire  that  the  plan  should  be  accomplished,  and 
for  the  sole  reason  that  I  would  be  glad  to  be  able  to  spend 
the  few  years  that  remain  to  me,  should  the  Lord  grant  me 
any,  in  the  strict  observance  and  practice  of  all  our  holy 
rules  and  in  perfect  submission  to  the  orders  of  my  supe- 
riors. I  feel  the  need  of  it,  after  having  passed  so  many 
years  in  these  remote  American  missions." 

But  this  plan,  like  the  other,  was  never  realized  and 
Father  De  Smet  continued  to  labor  in  his  accustomed 
field.  The  subsequent  events  of  his  life  show  that,  what- 
ever his  own  regrets  or  disappointments,  his  adopted 
country  was  the  gainer  by  the  action  of  his  superiors. 
5 


CHAPTER  VII. 

THE    UTAH    AND    OREGON    EXPEDITIONS. 

Visit  to  Europe  in  1853  —  Shipwreck  of  the  Humboldt — Voyage  to 
Europe  in  1856  —  The  Mormon  rebellion  —  Military  expedition  under 
Harney  —  De  Smet  accompanies  as  chaplain  —  Peace  with  the  Mor- 
mons —  Expedition  interrupted  —  Yakima  war  in  Oregon  —  Harney 
sent  thither  —  De  Smet  goes  with  him  —  Voyage  via  Panama  —  Paci- 
fication of  the  Oregon  Indians  —  Departure  for  home  —  Arrival  at 
Fort  Benton  —  Voyage  by  skiff  to  Omaha  —  Thence  by  steamer  to  St. 
Louis. 

'^^E  year  1852  was  spent  by  Father  De  Smet  in  his 
^^  regular  duties  as  procurator  of  the  Province.  In  the 
spring  of  1853  he  started  on  another  trip  to  Europe  ac- 
companied by  the  Right  Reverend  Bishop  Miege,  Vicar 
ApostoHc  of  the  Indian  Territory  east  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  While  passing  through  Washington  they 
were  presented  to  President  Pierce  by  Colonel  Thos. 
H.  Benton  and  Father  De  Smet  was  made  bearer  of  dis- 
patches to  several  European  powers.  They  sailed  May  9th 
on  the  steamer  Fulton  and  crossed  in  eleven  days  —  a  great 
contrast  with  the  voyage  of  1821,  when  it  took  forty  days 
under  sail  to  bring  De  Smet  to  America. 

Father  De  Smet  accompanied  Bishop  Miege  only  as  far 
as  Paris.  While  there  an  incident  occurred  that  shows  the 
humorous  nature  of  the  great  missionary  and  also  his  fer- 
tility of  resources  in  popularizing  his  work  in  America. 
He  delivered  an  address  upon  his  missions  to  the  student 
fathers  at  the  Sorbonne,  and  to  make  it  more  effective, 
decked  out  one  of  them  in  Indian  paraphernalia  that  he 
had  brought  with  him. 

Father  De  Smet  embarked  on  his  return  to  America  No- 
vember 23d  of  the  same  year  on  the  steamer  Humboldt.  The 
voyage  was  rough  and  slow  and  the  steamer  had  to  put  into 

[66] 


QUIET    YEARS.  6/ 

Halifax  for  coal.  Through  the  incompetence  of  the  pilot 
the  vessel  was  wrecked  and  lost  but  the  crew  and  pas- 
sengers were  saved.  After  a  short  delay  the  passengers 
were  taken  on  the  steamer  Niagara  and  carried  to  Boston. 
Father  De  Smet  was  back  in  St.  Louis  the  day  after 
Christmas. 

The  years  1854-5  and  most  of  1856  were  spent  in  St. 
Louis,  except  for  the  journeys  made  as  Socius  with  the 
Father  Provincial  to  the  various  Catholic  establishments 
in  the  Mississippi  valley.  In  the  year  1855  Father  De 
Smet  took  the  last  important  vows  pertaining  to  member- 
ship of  the  Society  of  Jesus  and  one  which  is  never  per- 
mitted to  members  before  they  reach  the  age  of  forty-five. 
Father  De  Smet  thus  refers  to  this  event :  "  On  Assump- 
tion Day  I  took  my  last  vows.  Remember  me  in  your 
holy  sacrifices  and  prayers  that  I  may  remain  faithful  to 
my  holy  engagements." 

In  September,  1856,  Father  De  Smet  sailed  again  by 
the  steamer  Fulton  for  Europe,  and  after  an  extensive  tour 
of  the  cities  of  Europe,  re-embarked  in  April,  1857,  on 
the  Leopold  for  New  York.  This  visit  to  Europe  was  a 
most  unwelcome  one  to  the  much  traveled  priest.  "  The 
journey  comes  wonderfully  hard  on  me  on  the  present 
occasion,"  he  writes.  "  I  find  consolation  only  that  it  is 
undertaken  by  obedience."  Reluctant  as  he  was  to  go, 
he  was  even  more  rejoiced  to  get  back.  "  I  embraced 
the  floor  of  my  room  on  entering  it,"  he  wrote,  "  and  from 
my  inmost  heart  thanked  the  Lord." 

In  December,  1857,  Father  Duerinck  was  drowned  near 
Independence,  Mo.  He  was  descending  the  Missouri  in  an 
open  boat  with  six  men.  The  boat  was  wrecked  on  a  snag. 
Duerinck  was  a  close  friend  of  Father  De  Smet,  his  aunt 
having  been  the  first  wife  of  De  Smet's  father.  The  oc- 
currence completely  prostrated  Father  De  Smet. 

Father  De  Smet  had  not  at  this  time  been  to  the  Indian 
country  for  six  years;  but  in  1858  a  call  came  from  quite 
an    unexpected    quarter.      The    Mormon    Rebellion    of 


68  THE    MORMON    EXPEDITION. 

1857-8  was  in  progress.  As  is  well  known,  the  Mor- 
mons had  migrated  to  the  Salt  Lake  valley  when  that 
country  was  still  a  possession  of  Mexico.  But  the  war 
with  Mexico  transferred  it  to  the  United  States,  and  as 
it  increased  in  population  the  responsibilities  of  territorial 
government  followed.  Brigham  Young  and  his  people 
opposed  all  Federal  interference;  indeed  the  Government 
was  not  at  first  disposed  to  trouble  them;  and  to  make 
such  interference  as  was  necessary  as  light  as  possible, 
Brigham  Young  was  himself  made  first  governor  of  the 
territory.  The  movement  of  people  along  the  California 
trail  had  brought  to  the  States  the  first  real  knowledge  of 
the  condition  of  things  in  Utah,  and  a  feeling  of  prejudice 
against  the  Mormons  gradually  assumed  formidable  pro- 
portions. In  1857  the  incoming  administration  at  Wash- 
ington appointed  a  new  governor,  Alfred  Cummings,  to 
succeed  Young.  The  ex-governor  and  his  people  rebelled 
and  decided  that  the  change  should  not  take  place;  and  to 
make  good  their  threat  they  prepared  for  active  resistance. 
It  therefore  became  necessary  to  send  a  military  force 
to  protect  the  governor  and  other  new  officers  in  the  dis- 
charge of  their  duties,  and  Albert  Sidney  Johnston  was 
sent  in  command  of  the  expedition.  The  Mormons  at 
first  got  the  better  of  the  federal  troops;  destroyed  large 
quantities  of  their  supplies,  and  so  crippled  the  usefulness 
of  Fort  Bridger  as  a  base  that  the  expedition  was  threat- 
ened with  starvation  when  the  winter  of  1857-8  ap- 
proached. Thereupon  the  Government  assumed  both  a 
commanding  and  conciliatory  tone.  It  organized  a  new 
mihtary  expedition,  and  it  sent  commissioners  offering 
amnesty  to  such  of  the  Mormons  as  ceased  their  resist- 
ance. These  measures  resulted  in  peace  before  the  second 
military  expedition  reached  the  territory.  General  John- 
ston and  Governor  Cummin.gs  entered  the  Mormon  capi- 
tal in  June  and  the  authority  of  the  governor  was  recog- 
nized by  the  people.  The  second  military  expedition  was 
stopped  at  the  ford  of  the  South  Platte  river  and  turned 
back. 


DE  SMET    AS    ARMY    CHAPLAIN.  69 

The  commander  of  this  second  expedition  was  General 
William  S.  Harney.  He  asked  to  have  Father  De  Smet 
accompany  the  expedition  as  chaplain  and  the  Govern- 
ment approved  his  request.  The  Church  authorities  at 
St.  Louis  thought  well  of  the  project  and  so  Father  De 
Smet  accepted  the  place  at  $1,200  per  year  and  his 
expenses.^  His  letters  inform  us  that  he  was  contemplat- 
ing a  trip  among  the  Missouri  and  Flathead  Indians  this 
year,  and  thought  he  could  combine  it  with  his  official 
duties. 

Father  De  Smet  left  St.  Louis  May  20,  1858,  to  join 
the  command  at  Fort  Leavenworth.  It  was  seven  years 
since  he  had  crossed  the  plains  and  the  progress  which 
settlement  had  made  in  the  meantime  impressed  him 
deeply.  "No  further  back,"  he  writes,  "than  1851,  at 
the  time  of  my  return  from  the  great  council  held  on  the 
borders  of  the  Platte,  the  plains  of  Kansas  were  almost 
entirely  without  inhabitants,  containing  only  a  few  scat- 
tered villages  of  Indians,  living  for  the  most  part  by  the 
chase,  by  fishing  and  on  wild  fruits  and  roots.  But  eight 
years  have  made  an  entire  change:  many  towns  and  vil- 
lages have  sprung  up,  as  it  were,  by  enchantment;  forges 
and  mills  of  every  kind  are  already  numerous;  extensive 
and  beautiful  farms  have  been  established  in  all  directions 
with  extraordinary  rapidity  and  industry." 

Father  De  Smet  records  some  interesting  facts  regard- 
ing the  expedition.  The  magnitude  of  the  supply  trains 
excited  his  astonishment,  as  some  of  their  idiosyncrasies 
provoked  his  laughter.  "  The  most  remarkable  thing  that 
I  met  *  *  *  "  j^g  says.  "  were  the  long  wagon  trains 
engaged  in  transporting  to  Utah  provisions  and  stores  of 
war.  If  the  journals  of  the  day  may  be  believed,  these 
cost  the  Government  fifteen  millions.  Each  train  con- 
sisted of  twenty-six  wagons,  each  wagon  drawn  by  six 
yoke  of  oxen,  and  containing  near  five  thousand  pounds. 

^  For  a  full  statement  of  his  account,  see  page  775. 


70  RISING    OF    THE    OREGON    TRIBES. 

The  Quartermaster-General  made  the  calculation  and  told 
me  that  the  whole  train  would  make  a  line  of  about  fifty 
miles.  We  passed  every  day  some  wagons  of  this  immense 
train.  Each  wagon  is  marked  with  a  name,  as  in  the  case 
of  ships,  and  these  names  serve  to  furnish  amusement  to 
the  passer-by,  the  caprices  of  the  captains  in  this  respect 
having  imposed  upon  the  wagons  such  names  as  the 
Constitution,  the  President,  the  Great  Republic,  the  King  of 
Bavaria,  Lola  Montes,  Louis  Napoleon,  Dan  O'Connell,  Old 
Kentiick,  etc.,  etc.  These  names  were  daubed  in  great  let- 
ters on  each  side  of  the  carriage.  On  the  plains,  the 
wagoner  assumes  the  style  of  '  captain,'  being  placed  in 
command  of  his  wagon  and  twelve  oxen.  The  master- 
wagoner  is  admiral  of  this  little  land-fleet;  he  has  control 
of  twenty-six  captains  and  312  oxen.  At  a  distance,  the 
white  awnings  of  the  wagons  have  the  efifect  of  a  fleet  of 
vessels  with  all  canvas  spread." 

The  expedition  made  its  way  safely  and  prosperously  as 
far  as  the  ford  of  the  South  Platte,  when  its  further  prog- 
ress was  stopped  by  the  events  already  related.  Father 
De  Smet  returned  to  Leavenworth  with  General  Harney 
and  then  went  on  to  St.  Louis  with  the  intention  of  re- 
signing his  commission;  but  his  plan  was  frustrated  by 
other  events  occurring  in  the  far  distant  Oregon  which 
was  the  familiar  field  of  his  labors  in  years  gone  by.  Fol- 
lowing is  his  own  account  of  the  event  that  changed  his 
plan:  "  Upon  my  arrival  in  St.  Louis  in  the  early  part  of 
September,  1858,  I  tendered  to  the  Secretary  of  War  my 
resignation  of  the  post  of  Chaplain  to  the  Army  of  Utah. 
It  was  not,  howe\'er,  accepted,  because  of  fresh  difficulties 
that  had  arisen  with  the  Indian  tribes  west  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  The  papers  announced  that  a  powerful  coali- 
tion of  Indians  had  been  formed,  and  that  Colonel  Steptoe 
had  been  attacked,  and  two  officers,  a  sergeant  and  several 
soldiers  of  his  company  killed  in  the  first  engagement.  A 
general  rising  was  feared  of  all  the  tribes  in  that  section  — 
the   Palooses,   Yakimas,   Skoyelpi,   Okinagans,   Spokans, 


THE    CHAPLAIN    STILL    NEEDED.  7I 

Coeur  d'Alenes,  Kalispels,  Kootenais  and  Flatheads.  All 
these  Indians,  hitherto  quiet  and  peaceable  (especially  the 
four  tribes  last  named)  had  of  late  become  more  or  less 
disturbed  and  irritated,  chiefly  through  the  incursions  of 
white  emigrants  into  the  Indian  lands  on  the  southwest  of 
the  territories  of  Oregon  and  Washington,  where,  without 
the  least  ceremony  and  without  any  preliminary  arrange- 
ment or  agreement,  they  had  taken  possession  of  the  most 
fertile  lands  and  the  most  advantageous  sites. 

"  The  mountain  Indians,  especially,  had  become  alarmed 
and  had  resolved  to  oppose  the  entry  of  the  whites  and 
their  further  advance  into  the  land.  The  Indian  force  that 
was  on  foot  consisted  of  800  to  1,000  warriors.  They  had 
just  won  a  victor}^:  the  hasty  retreat  of  the  brave  Colonel 
Steptoe,  who  was  hardly  expecting  an  attack  from  the 
savages  and  had  only  120  soldiers,  appeared  to  them  a 
flight.  He  had  even  abandoned  to  them  all  his  train  and 
provisions.  Swollen  with  pride  and  presumption,  the  In- 
dians thenceforth  believed  themselves  invincible  and  capa- 
ble of  resisting  and  withstanding  the  whole  United  States 
Army.  Accordingly  they  issued  their  defiance  of  the 
whites.  The  Government  at  any  rate  thought  their  oppo- 
sition quite  a  serious  matter,  and  decided  to  send  out 
General  Harney,  who  had  covered  himself  with  laurels  on 
various  occasions  in  Indian  warfare  in  Florida,  Texas, 
Mexico  and  the  plains  of  the  Missouri. 

"  I  was  once  more  invited  by  the  Secretary  of  War,  at 
General  Harney's  special  request,  to  accompany  him  in 
his  distant  expedition.  With  the  approval  of  my  superiors, 
I  consented  to  keep  my  post  of  army  chaplain,  with  the 
hope  especially  that  I  might  be  able  to  be  of  some  use  to  the 
mountain  tribes  of  Indians,  and  be  among  my  brethren  in 
the  difficulties  which  the  war  would  bring  upon  them."^ 

2  This  outbreak  is  what  is  known  in  Oregon  history  as  the  Yakima 
War.  It  was  induced,  like  nearly  all  our  Indian  wars,  by  the  encroach- 
ment of  white  settlers  on  the  Indian  lands. 


y2  SUCCESS    WITH    THE    INDIANS. 

Father  De  Smet  went  to  Oregon  by  way  of  Panama, 
sailing  from  New  York  September  20,  1858.  He  crossed 
the  Isthmus  on  the  29th,  stopped  at  San  Francisco  Octo- 
ber 1 6th,  and  arrived  at  Vancouver  October  28th.  As 
in  the  case  of  the  Utah  expedition,  the  actual  campaign 
was  over  before  General  Harney  arrived  on  the  ground. 
"  The  task,  however,  remained,"  says  De  Smet,  "  of  re- 
moving the  prejudices  of  the  Indians,  soothing  their  in- 
quietude and  alarm,  and  correcting,  or  rather  refuting, 
the  false  rumors  that  are  generally  spread  about  after  a 
war,  and  which  otherwise  might  be  the  cause  of  its  re- 
newal." 

For  the  accomplishment  of  a  task  like  this,  there  was 
no  other  individual  so  well  equipped  as  Father  De  Smet. 
It  was  decided  that  he  should  visit  the  upper  tribes  among 
whom  his  name  was  held  in  afifectionate  reverence,  and  use 
his  efforts  toward  bringing  about  a  general  pacification. 
He  left  Fort  Vancouver  the  next  day  after  his  arrival. 
He  passed  the  winter  at  the  Sacred  Heart  Mission  among 
the  Cceur  d'Alenes  and  on  the  i8th  of  February,  1859,  set 
out  for  the  Flathead  country.  He  visited  the  site  of  the 
abandoned  mission  in  the  Bitter  Root  valley,  the  scene  of 
his  first  labors,  and  also  the  new  mission  of  St.  Ignatius  in 
its  beautiful  and  permanent  home  in  Mission  valley  near 
the  Great  Flathead  lake. 

On  the  1 6th  of  April,  pursuant  to  orders  from  General 
Harney,  he  left  St.  Ignatius  with  the  chiefs  of  the  various 
mountain  tribes,  to  take  them  to  Fort  Vancouver,  where 
they  could  confer  with  the  Government  officers.  They 
reached  their  destination  on  the  i8th  of  May  and  the  coun- 
cil took  place  on  the  following  day.  The  result  of  the 
interview  was  all  that  had  been  desired.  The  Indians  were 
then  given  about  three  weeks  to  visit  the  interesting  points 
in  the  territory  in  the  hope  that  an  acquaintance  with  the 
number  and  power  of  the  whites  would  be  a  wholesome 
restraint  upon  further  outbreaks.  This  affair  wound  up  in 
a  manner  so  thoroughly  characteristic  of  the  Indian  na- 


THE    CHIEFS    SEE    A    LIGHT, 


7Z 


ture,  that  we  give  an  account  of  it  as  told  by  Father  De 
Smet: 

"  The  visit  which  appeared  the  most  to  interest  the 
chiefs  was  that  which  they  made  to  the  prison  at  Portland 
and  its  wretched  inmates,  whom  they  found  chained  within 
its  cells.  They  were  particularly  interested  in  the  causes, 
motives,  and  duration  of  their  imprisonments.  Chief 
Alexander  kept  it  in  his  mind.  Immediately  on  his  return 
to  his  camp  at  St.  Ignatius  Mission,  he  assembled  his 
people,  and  related  to  them  all  the  wonders  of  the  whites, 
and  especially  the  history  of  the  prison.  '  We,'  said  he, 
'have  neither  chains  nor  prisons;  and  for  want  of  them, 
no  doubt,  a  great  number  of  us  are  wicked  and  have  deaf 
ears.  As  chief,  I  am  determined  to  do  my  duty;  I  shall 
take  a  whip  to  punish  the  wicked;  let  all  those  who  have 
been  guilty  of  any  misdemeanor  present  themselves;  I  am 
ready.'  The  kno^vn  guilty  parties  were  called  upon  by 
name,  many  presented  themselves  of  their  own  accord, 
and  all  received  a  proportionate  correction.  The  whole 
affair  terminated  in  a  general  rejoicing  and  feast." 

Feeling  that  he  could  be  of  no  further  service  on  the 
expedition,  the  objects  of  which  were  now  accomplished, 
Father  De  Smet  asked  permission  to  return  to  the  States 
by  way  of  the  mountain  missions  and  the  Missouri  river. 
The  of^cial  correspondence  which  is  given  in  the  Letters, 
evinces  the  most  affectionate  esteem  on  the  part  of  the 
military  authorities  for  Father  De  Smet  personally,  and  a 
high  estimation  of  his  official  services.  It  is  particularly 
noteworthy  that  Captain  Alfred  Pleasanton,  who  later  won 
for  himself  such  an  eminent  place  in  the  history  of  his 
country,  formed  the  most  tender  attachment  for  the 
venerable  missionary  and  a  profound  admiration  for  his 
teaching. 

Father  De  Smet  left   Fort  Vancouver  on  the   15th  ot 
June,  halted  three  days  at  the  Sacred  Heart  Mission,  and- 
arrived  at  St.  Ignatius  on  the  i6th  of  July.     He  left  this 
mission   a  week   later  by  way   of  the   Mullan   road   and 


74  ON    THE    LONELY    RIVER. 

reached  Fort  Benton  on  the  Missouri  on  the  29th,  visiting 
the  Great  Falls  on  the  way.  The  last  time  he  had  been 
at  Benton  v^as  in  1846,  while  the  post  still  bore  the  name 
of  Fort  Lewis.  It  had  been  his  intention  on  leaving  Gen- 
eral Harney  to  travel  all  the  way  to  St.  Louis  on  horse- 
back, but  his  animals  gave  out  and  he  decided  to  go  on 
by  skiff.  After  full  conferences  with  the  resident  mis- 
sionaries, he  left  the  fort  August  5th  with  a  skiff  and  oars- 
man furnished  him  by  the  fur  company.  He  made  the 
trip  in  entire  safety  to  Omaha,  where  he  found  a  steamer, 
and  in  that  way  made  the  rest  of  the  journey  to  St.  Louis, 
arriving  there  September  23d. 

It  is  not  an  easy  thing  in  this  day  to  appreciate  what  a 
journey  like  that  meant  —  traveling  day  after  day  in  a 
frail  skiff  on  the  waters  of  a  turbulent  and  treacherous 
stream,  amid  scenes  of  utter  wildness,  without  the  sight 
of  a  white  man's  house  except  occasional  trading  posts, 
and  all  the  way  in  a  land  of  savage  tribes.  Father  De  Smet 
has  left  a  record  of  this  journey  which  is  worth  reading. 
He  says  of  the  manner  in  which  they  lived:  "  During  this 
long  trip  on  the  river  we  passed  the  nights  in  the  open 
air,  or  under  a  little  tent,  often  on  sandbars  to  avoid  the 
troublesome  mosquitoes,  or  on  the  skirts  of  a  plain,  or  in 
an  untrodden  forest.  We  often  heard  the  bowlings  of  the 
wolves,  and  the  grunting  of  the  grizzly  bear  disturbed  our 
sleep,  but  without  alarming  us.  In  the  desert  one  per- 
ceives that  God  has  implanted  in  the  breast  of  these  wild 
beasts  the  fear  of  man.  In  the  desert  also  we  are  enabled 
in  a  particular  way  to  admire  and  to  thank  the  divine  prov- 
idence which  watches  with  so  much  solicitude  over  his 
children.  There  is  admirably  verified  the  text  of  St. 
Matthew:  *  Consider  the  birds  of  the  air,  they  sow  not, 
but  your  Heavenly  Father  feeds  them;  are  ye  not  of  much 
more  value  than  they  ?  '^     During  the  whole  route,   our 

3  This  and  other  scriptural  quotations  given  by  Father  De  Smet  are 
not  from  the  King  James  version. 


NEEDY    INDIANS    EVERYWHERE.  75 

wants  were  constantly  supplied;  yes,  we  lived  in  the  midst 
of  the  greatest  abundance.  The  rivers  furnished  us  excel- 
lent fish,  water-fowl,  ducks,  geese  and  swans;  the  forest 
and  plains  gave  us  fruits  and  roots.  We  never  wanted  for 
game;  we  found  ever^'where  either  immense  herds  of  buf- 
falo, of  deer,  antelope,  mountain  sheep  and  bighorn,  or 
pheasants,  wild  turkeys  and  partridges." 

Some  idea  of  the  strenuous  zeal  of  the  good  missionary 
in  carrying  on  the  work  of  his  calling  may  be  inferred  from 
the  fact  that  on  this  journey  he  baptized  about  900  Indian 
children.  Along  the  Missouri  he  met  many  tribes,  always 
stopping  a  day  or  two  to  give  them  religious  instruction. 
They  invariably  showed  him  the  greatest  respect  and  af- 
fection and  listened  to  his  words  with  the  utmost  attention. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

JOURNEYINGS  AT  HOME  AND  ABROAD. 
1860-1866. 

Visits  Europe  in  i860 — Return,  1861  — Outbreak  of  the  Rebellion  — 
Business  journeys  to  Washington  —  Voyage  to  Fort  Benton  in  1862  — 
The  Sioux  outbreak  —  Minnesota  massacre  —  Campaigns  of  Sibley 
and  Sully  —  Voyage  to  Fort  Benton,  1863  —  Stopped  by  low  water  at 
Milk  River  —  Rest  of  journey  by  land  —  Danger  of  return  by  river  — 
Decides  to  return  via  Panama  —  Incidents  of  journey  —  The  situation 
in  the  Sioux  country  —  Peace  mission  to  Sioux  in  1864  —  Unsuccessful 
and  why  —  Visits  Europe  —  Voyage  to  Fort  Benton  in  1866. 

RATHER  De  SMET  remained  in  St.  Louis,  except  for 
Jl  some  short  side  trips,  until  September,  i860,  when 
he  set  out  for  Europe.  He  confined  his  travels  on  the  con- 
tinent to  France,  Belgium  and  Holland,  and  on  the  2d 
of  April,  1 86 1,  embarked  for  his  return  voyage.  It  was 
with  many  forebodings  that  he  neared  the  shores  of  his 
adopted  land,  for  it  had  become  known  to  him  before 
sailing  that  the  "  standard  of  rebellion  had  been  raised  by 
the  South."  He  arrived  in  New  York  on  April  15th  only 
to  find  his  worst  fears  confirmed.  "A  few  hours  before 
our  arrival,"  he  writes,  "  the  great  American  metropolis 
had  been  thrown  into  the  wildest  excitement  and  con- 
sternation by  the  tidings  that  Fort  Sumter  in  South  Caro- 
lina had  been  taken  by  the  Rebels,  and  that  the  Stars  and 
Stripes,  the  far-and-wide  honored  fiag  of  the  great  Re- 
public, had  been  battered  down  by  the  enemies  of  the 
Union  —  once  Union  men  themselves  —  reduced  to  mere 
shreds,  a  rag!  Unpardonable  outrage!  —  one  which  I  fear« 
will  be  avenged  in  a  deluge  of  blood.  On  hearing  the  sad 
news  of  the  insulting  and  arrogant  deed,  tears  flowed  freely 
from  many  an  eye  among  the  passengers  of  the  Fulton,  and 
were  followed  by  loud  imprecations  and  threats  against 

[76] 


BETWEEN    NORTH   AND   SOUTH.  yj 

the  Secessionists.  I  am  not  a  man  for  war  and  am  averse 
to  its  horrors  and  bloodshed;  but  I  was  deeply  moved  at 
the  scenes  I  witnessed  on  the  day  of  my  landing  on  the 
shores  of  my  once  happy  and  beloved  adopted  country. 
I  prayed  and  prayed  most  earnestly,  that  the  Lord  in  his 
mercy  might  allay  and  soften  the  rising  passions,  and  that 
peace  might  again  be  restored  in  this  now  distracted  land." 

Father  De  Smet  went  directly  to  St.  Louis  and  he  notes 
that  *'  on  the  long  stretch  of  over  a  thousand  miles  nothing 
was  heard  but  the  clang  of  arms  and  the  war  cry  repeated 
in  every  city,  town,  and  hamlet;  while  from  every  house 
and  spire,  and  on  every  mountain  top  and  hill,  and  in  every 
breeze,  waved  the  insulted  Stars  and  Stripes." 

Father  De  Smet  was  a  loyal  citizen,  a  Union  man;  but 
he  was  not  what  he  later  calls  a  radical.  His  views  were 
doubtless  modified  by  the  atmosphere  of  St.  Louis,  which 
was  his  home,  and  he  saw  more  clearly  the  other  side  of 
the  question  than  people  of  the  North  generally  did.  His 
prayers  were  for  peace,  but  as  between  the  North  and 
South  his  sympathies  were  with  the  North.  At  one  time 
he  frankly  doubted  that  the  North  would  succeed,  for  he 
felt  that  so  great  a  section  of  people  of  the  Anglo-Saxon 
race  could  not  be  subdued.  As  the  war  progressed  and  the 
power  of  the  North  became  more  autocratic,  he  dissented 
from  some  of  its  extreme  measures;  but  there  was  never 
a  shadow  of  doubt  of  his  unswerving  loyalty  to  the  Gov- 
ernment. 

A  matter  growing  out  of  the  war  that  gave  the  Jesuits 
considerable  trouble  was  the  draft,  which  made  no  excep- 
tion in  favor  of  the  clerical  profession.  The  Jesuits  were 
few  in  number,  and  in  addition  to  their  priestly  duties 
nearly  all  of  them  were  teachers  in  institutions  of  learning. 
The  Society  was  poor  and  had  no  funds  to  hire  substitutes 
for  their  priests  either  in  the  field  or  in  the  schools. 
Besides  this,  they  were  on  principle  opposed  to  war, 
so  that  on  the  whole  the  situation  was  a  trying  one. 
Father  De  Smet  went  to  Washington,  saw  President  Lin- 


78  INCIDENTS    OF    THE    WAR. 

coin  and  others,  and  obtained  such  a  degree  of  exemption 
as  it  was  possible  to  give  under  the  rigid  terms  of  the  law. 
Later  in  the  war  two  fathers  were  drafted  and  Father  De 
Smet  was  compelled  again  to  intercede.  The  authorities 
had  no  power  to  exempt  them  directly,  but  they  were  told 
to  remain  at  their  work  and  they  would  not  be  ordered  to 
the  front. 

Father  De  Smet  made  a  journey  to  Washington  in  the 
fall  of  1 86 1  and  was  there  at  the  time  of  the  disastrous 
battle  of  Bull  Run.  In  the  spring  of  1862  he  went  again 
and  made  a  third  trip  in  the  fall  of  that  year.  On  this  last 
journey  he  records  that  he  "  heard  the  roar  of  the  cannon 
in  the  battle  of  Antietam." 

In  the  Letters  are  some  interesting  notes  upon  the  second 
of  the  above  journeys,  in  which  the  modest  priest  is  seen 
visiting  the  chief  magistrate  of  the  nation,  dining  with  the 
ministers  of  foreign  nations,  and  displaying  a  naive  skill 
at  diplomacy  with  the  departments  of  the  Government. 
They  can  best  be  told  in  his  own  words :  "  Towards  the 
end  of  last  February  I  had  to  go  to  Washington  to  arrange 
the  accounts  of  our  Indian  Missions  among  the  Potawato- 
mies  and  Osages.  Since  the  outbreak  of  the  war  and  the 
great  expenditures  which  it  occasions,  the  Government  is 
necessarily  delayed  in  the  payment  of  its  contracts  with  the 
Indian  tribes,  the  motto  for  to-day  being  '  the  expenses  of 
the  war  before  everything  else.'  A  sum  of  over  eighteen 
thousand  dollars  was  due  the  missions.  I  presented  my 
request  to  the  Superintendent  of  Indian  Affairs,  with  the 
remark  that  a  refusal  or  delay  on  the  part  of  the  Govern- 
ment of  its  debt  and  promise  would  singularly  disarrange 
the  ideas  of  our  Indians,  who  have  thus  far  been  loyal  and 
attached  to  the  Union  side ;  that  if  we  were  obliged  by  lack 
of  means  to  send  some  400  children  back  to  their  poor 
parents,  they  would  conclude  *  that  their  Great  Father,  Presi- 
dent Lincoln,  had  taken  the  money  that  ought  to  have  gone 
to  the  support  of  their  children  and  used  it  for  other  pur- 
poses,' and  that  they  might  be  led  in  consequence  to  lend  a 


HIGH    ACQUAINTANCES.  79 

favorable  ear  to  the  Secessionists.  This  all  but  casus  belli 
made  the  Superintendent  smile  and  pleased  him  greatly, 
and  he  promised  to  do  his  utmost  to  satisfy  our  good 
savages." 

In  another  letter  he  writes :  "  In  Washington  I  had  the 
honor  of  being  presented  to  our  President,  Lincoln,  and  I 
talked  with  him  for  over  an  hour.  Mr.  Blondeel,  the  Belgian 
Ambassador,  showed  me  a  great  deal  of  attention ;  he  is 
very  well  disposed  toward  us.  He  obliged  me  to  dine  with 
him,  together  with  the  ambassadors  of  France,  Russia  and 
Spain.  They  all  had  their  grands  cordons,  and  I  had  a 
frock-coat  well  worn  and  with  two  buttons  gone.  However, 
it  all  went  off  very  agreeably.  I  did  the  best  I  could  among 
these  great  personages;  but  I  remain  of  the  opinion  that  I 
shall  always  be  more  at  my  ease  sitting  on  the  grass  and 
surrounded  with  savages,  each  one  making  his  jokes  and  at 
the  same  time  eating  with  good  appetite  a  bear  rib,  or  roast- 
ing a  piece  of  buffalo  or  fat  dog." 

In  the  summer  of  1862  Father  De  Smet  made  the  long 
journey  to  F'ort  Benton  and  back.  He  traveled  on  the 
American  Fur  Company  steamer  Spread  Eagle.  His  pur- 
pose was  to  revisit  the  tribes,  baptize  their  children,  study 
the  prospects  of  new  missions  and  carry  supplies  of  various 
kinds  to  the  mountain  missions.  While  at  Fort  Benton  he 
made  one  of  a  party  to  visit  the  Great  Falls  of  the  Missouri. 
On  his  way  back  to  St.  Louis  he  left  the  boat  at  Fort  Leaven- 
worth and  made  a  side  trip  to  St.  Mary's  Mission,  Kansas. 

Father  De  Smet  was  deeply  grieved  and  alarmed  at  the 
state  of  things  as  he  found  it  among  the  tribes  of  the  Mis- 
souri, particularly  the  Sioux  nations.  He  had  never  before 
seen  them  so  hostile  and  it  was  evident  that  they  were  on 
the  eve  of  an  outbreak  against  the  whites.  In  fact  he  had 
scarcely  returned  to  his  home  in  St.  Louis  when  the  storm 
burst.  The  historic  Minnesota  Massacre  took  place  August 
18-21,  1862,  and  a  brief  sketch  of  its  rise  and  progress  for 
two  or  three  years  is  necessary  to  a  full  understanding  of 
the  subsequent  course  of  events. 


8o  THE    SIOUX    OUTBREAK. 

The  massacre  was  an  outburst  of  Indian  rage  and 
vengeance  over  the  wrongs  they  had  suffered  at  the  hands 
of  the  whites  and  the  evident  fate  that  awaited  them  with 
the  progress  of  settlement.  The  opportunity  came  with  the 
American  Civil  War,  which  the  Indians  were  led  to  believe 
had  so  crippled  the  Government  that  it  could  not  make  ef- 
fective resistance.  The  Indians  were  unquestionably  en- 
couraged and  abetted  by  British  influence  through  the 
Canadian  half-breeds  who  circulated  freely  south  of  the 
border.  In  the  three  days  that  the  massacre  lasted,  nearly 
one  thousand  lives  and  two  million  dollars'  worth  of  prop- 
erty were  destroyed. 

The  Government  instantly  took  the  matter  in  hand  and 
placed  a  military  force  in  the  field  under  General  H.  H. 
Sibley.  The  Indians  were  beaten  in  several  battles  in  the 
fall  of  1862,  a  large  number  of  hostiles  were  captured,  and 
thirty-eight  of  their  number  were  hung,  December  26, 
1862.1 

In  1863  a  joint  campaign  under  Generals  Sibley  and  Sully 
was  planned  by  General  Pope,  Commander  of  the  Depart- 
ment. General  Sibley  was  to  proceed  west  to  the  Missouri, 
driving  the  Indians  before  him,  and  General  Sully  was  to 
go  up  the  Missouri  and  intercept  them,  forming  a  junction 
with  Sibley.  General  Sibley  defeated  the  Indians  in  three 
battles  and  reached  the  Missouri  July  29th.  Sully  had 
failed  to  connect,  but  about  a  month  later  his  own  force  met 
the  Indians  at  Whitestone  Hill  and  again  defeated  them. 
Still  unsubdued  the  Indians  kept  up  hostilities  and  in  1864 
a  very  large  force  under  General  Sully  was  sent  against 
them.  The  Indians  were  badly  defeated  in  the  battle  of 
Kill  Deer  Mountain  July  28th. 

The  severe  chastisement  which  they  had  now  received, 
and  the  final  victory  of  the  Government  in  the  Civil  War 
soon  after,  led  to  temporary  peace  with  the  Indians;  but 

1  For  Father  De  Smet's  appeal  to  the  Government  in  behalf  of  these 
Indians,  see  page  15 10  of  the  Letters. 


DE  SMET    TO    THE    RESCUE.  8l 

their  hatred  of  the  whites  was  not  quenched  and  they  re- 
mained hostile  in  spirit,  if  not  in  actual  deed,  until  their  final 
subjugation  some  twelve  years  later. 

Such  was  the  situation  along  the  Missouri  river  from 
1862  for  several  years.  It  greatly  interfered  with  Father 
De  Smet's  plans.  It  was  his  intention  to  commence  a  mis- 
sion among  the  Sioux  in  1863,  but  he  was  compelled  to 
abandon  the  attempt  for  the  time,  and  content  himself  with 
a  voyage  to  Fort  Benton  in  the  interest  of  the  mountain 
missions.  He  left  St.  Louis  May  9,  1863,  with  two  Italian 
Brothers,  on  the  American  Fur  Company  steamer  Nellie 
Rogers.  The  journey  passed  off  without  mishap  of  any 
kind  until  they  reached  the  mouth  of  Milk  river,  where  the 
water  was  found  too  low  for  the  boat  to  proceed  farther. 
The  entire  load  of  freight  and  all  the  passengers  had  to  go 
ashore  and  await  some  means  of  getting  to  Fort  Benton 
by  land. 

While  encamped  on  the  banks  of  the  river  for  several 
weeks  awaiting  transportation  from  Fort  Benton,  Father 
De  Smet  worked  assiduously  among  the  Indians,  principally 
the  Crows  and  Grosventres  of  the  Prairies.  He  had  a  large 
tent,  given  him  by  General  Harney,  which  he  used  as  a 
chapel,  and  in  it  he  conducted  religious  exercises,  just  as  he 
did  on  the  boats  on  which  he  traveled.  One  day  the  camp 
was  attacked  by  a  war  party  of  600  Sioux  and  they  were 
saved  from  what  might  have  been  a  massacre  by  the  coura- 
geous action  of  Father  De  Smet  in  going  out  alone  to  meet 
the  Indians.  They  recognized  him,  received  him  in  the  ut- 
most friendliness,  and  after  an  interview  and  some  present- 
making  withdrew  without  further  hostile  occurrence. 

Before  the  Nellie  Rogers  turned  back,  a  deplorable  inci- 
dent occurred,  the  details  of  which  are  very  obscure.  Father 
De  Smet,  who  was  certainly  cognizant  of  the  facts,  makes 
no  mention  of  it.  It  was  the  killing  of  Owen  McKenzie  by 
Malcom  Clark.  McKenzie,  half-breed  son  of  the  distin- 
guished trader,  Kenneth  McKenzie,  was  at  this  time  in 
charge  of  Fort  Galpin  near  by.  Clark,  a  passenger  on  the 
6 


82  ACROSS   THE    CONTINENT. 

boat,  was  a  noted  character  in  the  upper  country  and  con- 
sidered something  of  a  desperado.  He  and  McKenzie  had 
a  standing  grudge  between  them  relating  to  some  former 
accounts.  McKenzie  was  a  great  drinker  and  visited  the 
Nellie  Rogers  in  an  intoxicated  condition.  Accounts  differ 
as  to  what  happened  in  detail,  but  the  main  fact  is  that  Clark 
shot  McKenzie  in  the  cabin,  killing  him  instantly.  Whether 
he  had  sufficient  provocation  for  his  act,  may  never  be 
known,  unless  some  surviving  witness  of  the  tragedy,  if 
there  be  any,  shall  tell  the  story;  but  tradition  has  handed 
down  the  act  as  a  cold-blooded  murder. 

The  deed  came  near  resulting  in  more  serious  conse- 
quences than  the  loss  of  the  victim's  life.  McKenzie,  be- 
sides being  a  half-breed,  was  married  among  the  Indians 
and  was  personally  popular  with  them  and  with  the  white 
population  of  that  country.  A  band  of  Indians  were  en- 
camped near  by  and  when  they  heard  of  McKenzie's  murder, 
they  were  desperately  wrought  up  over  it  and  vowed  sum- 
mary vengeance.  Father  De  Smet,  it  is  said,  interfered  and 
prevented  trouble  and  Clark  was  promptly  hustled  out  of 
the  way.^ 

After  a  time  the  ox  trains  came  down  from  Fort  Benton 
to  transport  the  cargo  the  rest  of  the  way.  It  was  a  long 
tedious  journey  of  350  miles,  over  parched  plains,  and  in 
the  heat  of  summer;  but  it  was  accomplished  in  safety. 
Father  De  Smet  here  met  Father  Imoda  from  St.  Peter's  on 
Sun  river  and  turned  over  to  him  the  articles  destined  for 
his  mission,  and  the  recruits  whom  he  had  brought  with 
him. 

"  I  had  thus  far  fulfilled  the  wishes  of  my  superiors," 
writes  Father  De  Smet.  "  I  had  brought  the  two  Italian 
Brothers  to  the  first  Rocky  Mountain  mission.  My  own 
principal  object  was  a  missionary  visit  to  the  wandering 
tribes  of  the  plains.    This  I  had  accomplished  only  in  part. 

2  There  is  a  tradition  that  Father  De   Smet  married   Clark  to  his 
second  wife. 


THE  FLOOD  OF  IMMIGRATION.  83 

When  I  left  St.  Louis,  I  had  intended  to  see  a  very  large 
number  of  Indians  during  the  summer  and  fall,  but  local 
conditions  and  the  dangers  of  the  cruel  Sioux  war  had  ab- 
solutely blocked  my  plan.  The  contagion  of  war  had  spread 
to  the  upper  tribes  of  the  Sioux,  who  had  hitherto  been  at 
peace  with  the  whites.  The  reports  that  reached  us  every 
day  of  robberies  and  massacres  committed  by  the  Indians 
of  the  plains,  on  the  one  hand,  and  on  the  Salt  Lake  route 
by  marauders  and  murderers  of  another  species,  the  off- 
scourings of  civilization,  living  by  robbery  and  assassination 
on  the  unhappy  travelers  whom  they  meet,  caused  me  to  take 
the  resolution  of  returning  to  St.  Louis  by  the  Pacific 
Ocean." 

Father  De  Smet  might  have  added  that  no  steamboat  suc- 
ceeded in  reaching  Benton  that  year  and  that  he  would  have 
had  to  make  all  the  way  back  in  an  open  boat,  which  would 
have  been  practically  equivalent  to  suicide.  He  left  Fort 
Benton  for  St.  Ignatius  Mission  on  the  25th  of  August. 
This  proved  to  be  his  last  visit  to  the  mountains.  At  St. 
Ignatius  he  found  missionary  affairs  prospering,  but  he 
noted  with  great  apprehension  the  vast  changes  then  sweep- 
ing over  the  country  as  a  result  of  the  discovery  of  gold  in 
Montana.  He  thus  refers  to  this  important  matter :  "  It  is 
impossible  to  overestimate  the  dangers  W'hich,  just  at  this 
time,  are  threatening  all  the  mountain  tribes,  through  the 
approach  of  the  whites,  the  ease  with  which  liquor,  so  fatal 
to  the  Indians,  can  be  obtained,  and  the  accompaniment  of 
all  the  vices  and  excesses  of  our  modern  civilization;  espe- 
cially as  understood  and  practiced  by  our  American  pioneers. 
These  things  must  be  seen  to  be  appreciated  and  believed." 

But  if  Father  De  Smet  saw  much  to  fear  for  his  Indians, 
he  also  saw  much  to  hope  in  the  new  field  opening  up  in  this 
region.  Where  there  used  to  be  one  savage  he  saw  that 
there  would  soon  be  a  hundred  settlers,  and  the  Church 
began  at  once  to  establish  missions  in  the  little  mining  towns, 
thus  laying  the  real  foundation  of  its  present  prosperous 
condition  in  Montana.    With  an  affectionate  pleasure,  born 


84  DANGERS    ESCAPED. 

of  the  memory  of  former  years,  Father  De  Smet  found 
Father  Ravalli,  one  of  the  noblest  men  that  ever  labored  in 
the  ranks  of  the  Church  in  Montana,  rebuilding  the  long 
neglected  mission  in  St.  Mary's  valley. 

Father  De  Smet  left  St.  Ignatius  on  the  8th  of  September ; 
reached  the  mission  of  the  Sacred  Heart  on  the  i8th  and 
Fort  Vancouver  on  the  8th  of  October.  After  a  brief  de- 
lay here,  he  sailed  from  Portland,  October  13th,  stopped 
at  Victoria,  Vancouver  Island,  and  reached  San  Francisco 
on  the  2 1  St.  There  were  no  incidents  of  especial  import- 
ance on  the  rest  of  the  journey.  He  left  San  Francisco  on 
the  3d  of  November,  crossed  the  Isthmus  on  the  i8th  and 
reached  New  York  on  Thanksgiving  Day.  He  called  at 
Washington  on  his  way  west  and  finally  reached  St.  Louis 
on  the  1st  of  December.  "  The  day  following,"  he  writes, 
"  I  offered  the  holy  sacrifice  of  the  altar,  as  a  thanksgiving 
service  for  all  the  benefits  received  from  heaven  in  my  long, 
painful  and  dangerous  tour,  upon  rivers  and  seas  and  in 
diverse  lands,  through  numerous  bands  of  hostile  Indians, 
in  the  mountainous  portions  of  Idaho  infested  by  white 
marauders  and  assassins  of  the  lowest  and  vilest  sort,  and 
on  the  two  great  oceans,  the  Pacific  and  Atlantic,  ranged 
at  present  by  hostile  ships  of  the  American  Confederacy."  " 

The  terrible  state  of  things  in  the  Sioux  country  at  this 
time  gave  the  Government  a  good  deal  of  uneasiness.  It 
was  unfortunate  that  just  as  the  great  strain  of  the  Rebellion 
was  taxing  its  energies  to  the  utmost,  it  should  find  the  most 
powerful  confederacy  of  Indians  on  the  continent  in  bitter 
hostility  against  it.  When  Father  De  Smet  passed  through 
Washington  on  his  way  home  in  December  the  Secretary  of 
Interior  and  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs  besought  him 
to  try  again  to  see  the  Sioux  and  induce  them  to  come  to 
terms.  It  was  a  difficult  role  which  he  was  asked  to  fill. 
His  mission  had  always  been  one  of  peace.     On  the  banner 

3  In  all  these  recent  extensive  travels  and  those  yet  remaining,  it 
should  be  kept  in  mind  that  Father  De  Smet  was  getting  to  be  an  old 
man.     He  was  now  sixty-three  years  of  age. 


INFLUENCE    WITH    SIOUX    NEEDED.  85 

which  he  carried  were  only  the  mild  emblems  of  Christian- 
ity. No  weapons  of  slaughter  ever  accompanied  him  to  the 
wigwams  of  the  Indians.  Now  he  was  asked  to  accompany 
a  military  expedition  to  be  sent  against  them.  While  it  was 
the  chief  desire  of  his  heart  to  stop  the  war,  he  felt  that  he 
would  be  compromising  his  entire  influence  among  the  In- 
dians if  he  went  to  them  in  company  with  armed  soldiers, 
or  under  the  flag  which  they  looked  upon  as  the  symbol 
of  ruin  to  their  people.  His  final  decision  in  the  matter  is 
thus  stated  in  his  own  words :  "I  have  been  requested,  by 
the  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs  in  Washington,  *  to 
undertake  the  journey  and  to  bring  about,  if  possible,  a 
peace  among  the  hostile  Sioux,  acting  in  concert  with  the 
commander  of  the  troops  and  the  appointed  agents.'  They 
offer  to  pay  all  my  expenses,  with  a  handsome  remuneration 
for  myself.  Not  being  well  as  yet,  I  have  not  accepted  their 
request.  I  fear  I  would  lose  all  caste  among  the  Indians. 
They  have  hitherto  looked  upon  me  as  the  bearer  to  them 
of  the  word  of  the  Great  Spirit  and  have  universally  been 
kind  and  attentive  wherever  I  have  met  them.  Should  I 
present  myself  in  their  midst  as  the  bearer  of  the  word  of 
the  Big  Chief  of  the  Big  Knives  in  Washington,  no  longer 
their  Great  Father  but  now  their  greatest  enemy,  it  would 
place  me  in  rather  an  awkward  situation.*  I  have  written 
to  the  Commissioner  that  if  I  can  go,  I  will  go  on  my  own 
hook,  without  pay  or  remuneration ;  visit  the  friendly  Sioux 
first,  and  in  their  company  try  to  penetrate  among  their 
fighting  brethren  and  do  my  utmost  to  preach  peace  and  good 
will  to  them,  and  to  make  them  come  to  a  good  understand- 
ing with  the  general  in  command  and  the  agents  of  Govern- 
ment." 

*  In  another  letter  Father  De  Smet  wrote :  "  My  reception  would 
be  very  different  if  I  presented  myself  in  company  with  the  General  of 
the  American  army  and  the  agents  of  the  Government.  Surely  my 
black  robe  would  then  cease  to  be  a  passport  for  me  into  the  Indian 
countrj'.    I  tried  to  make  the  Commissioner  of  Indian  Affairs  see  this.** 


86  GENTLE    MEASURES    OUT    OF    PLACE. 

In  accordance  with  this  resolution  Father  De  Smet  left 
St.  Louis  April  20th,  going  as  far  as  Fort  Berthold.  He 
remained  in  that  neighborhood  nearly  all  summer,  visiting 
several  Sioux  bands  but  spending  most  of  his  time  among 
the  Mandans,  Aricaras  and  Minnetarees.  At  Fort  Ber- 
thold he  did  a  very  brave  and  gallant  thing.  A  large  war 
party  of  Sioux  appeared  on  the  opposite  bank.  He  crossed 
to  meet  them,  contrary  to  the  advice  of  every  one  in  the 
post.  He  was  well  received  and  found  that  they  had  come 
there  for  the  express  purpose  of  seeing  him.  He  remained 
with  them  for  nearly  three  hours.  The  chiefs  received  with 
ready  ear  the  message  he  brought  from  the  Government 
and  the  conference  was  entirely  satisfactory. 

While  at  Berthold  Father  De  Smet  learned  that  the  Santee 
Sioux,  who  were  mainly  instrumental  in  the  Minnesota 
massacre,  and  who  were  then  hovering  on  the  British  fron- 
tier, would  like  to  see  him  and  hear  what  the  Government 
had  to  say  to  them.  De  Smet  thought  he  ought  to  go,  but 
before  doing  so  felt  that  he  must  consult  General  Sully,  w^ho 
was  coming  up  the  river  with  a  strong  military  force.  He 
descended  the  river  to  meet  him  and  told  him  what  he  pro- 
posed ;  but  the  General  thought  that  it  was  his  duty  to  deliver 
a  blow  to  these  Indians  that  they  would  remember,  and  that 
it  was  best  to  talk  peace  only  after  they  had  been  punished 
for  what  they  had  done.  "  In  consequence  of  the  General's 
declaration  and  the  circumstances  of  the  case,  my  errand  of 
peace,  though  sanctioned  by  the  Government,  became  boot- 
less and  could  only  serve  to  place  me  in  a  false  position  — 
that  of  being  face  to  face  with  the  Indians  without  being 
able  to  do  them  the  least  service.  So  I  took  the  resolution 
of  returning  to  St.  Louis."  He  arrived  there  in  the  latter 
part  of  August  and  a  few  days  later  set  out  for  Washington 
to  report  the  result  of  his  labors. 

A  week  after  his  return  from  Washington  he  left  St.  Louis 
for  Europe  and  reached  Liverpool  late  in  October.  He 
spent  a  little  time  in  England,  then  crossed  to  Belgium  and 
soon  aft-er  went  to  Rome,  where  he  was  received  with  great 


PRIEST,    POPE   AND    KING.  87 

consideration  by  Pope  Gregory  XVI.  He  returned  to  Bel- 
gium in  December  and  spent  the  first  part  of  the  year  1865 
in  visiting  the  principal  cities  of  that  country  and  of  Hol- 
land, England  and  Ireland.  He  sailed  from  Liverpool  June 
7th  and  was  back  in  St.  Louis  on  the  last  day  of  that  month. 
He  spent  the  rest  of  that  year  in  St.  Louis.'^ 

In  the  year  1866  Father  De  Smet  made  his  last  trip  to 
Fort  Benton.  It  was  an  interesting  and  profitable  voyage 
and  is  told  in  great  detail  in  the  Letters.  In  particular,  he 
prepared,  at  the  request  of  a  friend,  descriptions  of  the  Mis- 
souri river,  the  steamboats  that  plied  it  in  his  day,  and  the 
dangers  and  perils  of  its  navigation,  which  are  undoubtedly 
the  most  complete  that  have  come  down  to  us.  Father  De 
Smet  left  St.  Louis  April  9th.      At  Fort  Sully  he  met  many 

^  Soon  after  Father  De  Smet  sailed  from  Europe  on  this  occasion 
he  was  made  Chevalier  of  the  Order  of  Leopold  by  the  Belgian  king. 
Following  is  a  record  of  the  event  in  the  official  journal,  Le  Moniteur 
Beige,  of  June  24,  1865 : 

(l)    Ministeres  de  la  Justice  et  des  Affaires  Etrangeres. 
Ordre  de  Leopold. —  Nomination. 
LEOPOLD,  Roi  des  Beiges, 
A  tous  presents  et  a  venir,  SALUT. 

Voulant  donner  au  Reverend  Pere  De  Smet  (P.-J.),  missionnaire 
dans  I'Amerique  du  Nord,  un  temoignage  de  Notre  bienveillance ; 

Sur  la  proposition  de  Nos  Ministres  de  la  Justice  et  des  Affaires 
Etrangeres, 

Nous  avons  arrete  et  arretons : 

Art.  ler.  Le  Reverend  Pere  De  Smet  (P.-J.)  est  nomine  chevalier 
de  rOrdre  de  Leopold. 

II  portera  la  decoration  civile. 

Art.  2.     II  prendra  rang  dans  I'Ordre  a  dater  de  ce  jour. 
Art.  3.    Notre  Ministre  des  affaires  etrangeres,  ayant  Tadministra- 
tion  de  I'Ordre,  est  charge  de  I'execution  du  present  arrete. 
Donne  a  Laeken,  le  18  juin  1865. 

LEOPOLD. 
Par  le  Roi. 
Le  Ministre  de  la  Justice, 

VICTOR  TESCH. 
Le  Ministre  des  Affaires  Etrangeres. 
Ch.  ROGIER. 


88  TRIES   THE   SIOUX   AGAIN. 

of  the  Sioux  bands  and  they  laid  before  him,  as  was  their 
custom,  all  their  wrongs  and  sufferings.  They  were  still  in 
a  hostile  mood  and  the  boat  had  been  thoroughly  barricaded 
and  put  in  fighting  trim  while  passing  through  their  country. 
Father  De  Smet  reached  Fort  Benton  June  7,  1866, 
after  a  prosperous  voyage  in  which  he  had  satisfactory  inter- 
views with  all  the  river  tribes.  There  is  little  information 
covering  the  return  trip.  He  was  back  in  St.  Louis  by  the 
middle  of  July  and  remained  there  the  rest  of  the  year. 


CHAPTER  IX. 

PEACE   COMMISSIONS   OF    1867   AND    1868. 

Critical  situation  in  Indian  country  —  Father  De  Smet,  1867,  goes  on 
peace  mission  to  the  Sioux  —  Incidents  of  the  journey  —  Success  of  the 
mission — On  way  back  meets  Peace  Commission  —  Invited  to  accom- 
pany them  —  Illness  prevents  —  Mission  of  1868  —  Journey  to  Chey- 
enne —  Father  De  Smet  goes  to  Fort  Rice  —  Starts  in  quest  of  hostile 
camp  —  Meeting  envoys  from  same  —  Arrival  at  camp  —  Joyful  wel- 
come—  The  great  council — Deputies  sent  to  meet  commissioners  — 
Arrival  at  Fort  Rice  —  Successful  council  —  Father  De  Smet's  great 
services. 

'^'HE  Indian  affairs  of  the  Government  were  at  this  time 
^^  in  critical  shape  and  enlisted  the  constant  efforts  of  the 
War  and  Interior  Departments  to  prevent  further  outrages 
and  to  arrive  at  some  peaceful  solution  of  existing  troubles. 
The  years  1867  and  1868  were  the  most  important  in  Father 
De  Smet's  life,  because  of  the  part  which  he  took  in  this 
work  of  pacification.  He  had  greater  influence  with  the 
Indians  than  any  other  living  white  man,  and  the  Govern- 
ment was  glad  to  avail  itself  of  his  good  offices.  Early  in 
1867  the  Secretary  of  the  Interior  requested  him  to  go  to  the 
hostile  tribes  "  to  endeavor  to  bring  them  back  to  peace  and 
submission  and  to  prevent  as  far  as  possible  the  destruction 
of  property  and  the  murder  of  the  whites."  "  I  accepted 
the  commission,"  Father  De  Smet  writes,  "  there  being  noth- 
ing in  it  contrary  to  my  duties  as  a  missionary,  and  with  the 
distinct  understanding  that  I  shall  not  accept  any  remunera- 
tion for  my  services.  I  prefer  to  be  altogether  independent 
in  money  matters,  as  my  only  object  is  to  be  of  use  to  the 
whites  and  still  more  to  the  poor  Indians." 

In  his  account  of  his  long  journey  this  year  Father  De 
Smet  gives  an  excellent  summary  of  the  wrongs  which  the 
Indians  were  suffering,  and  of  the  savage  cruelties  which 

[8q] 


90  A    GOOD    SIOUX    AND    OLD    FRIEND. 

they  were  perpetrating  upon  the  whites.  His  natural  sym- 
pathies were  with  the  Indians  and  they  knew  it,  and  this 
may  have  been  the  secret  of  his  wonderful  influence  over 
them. 

He  left  St.  Louis  April  12th  by  a  different  route  from  that 
followed  heretofore.  He  went  by  rail  to  Chicago  and 
thence  started  for  Omaha  on  the  Northwestern  line,  which 
had  just  been  opened  through  to  the  Missouri  river.  Un- 
luckily there  had  been  an  extraordinary  downpour  of  rain 
for  some  days  previously  and  the  tracks  and  bridges  were 
badly  washed  out  on  the  western  end  of  the  line.  With 
much  delay  he  finally  got  as  far  as  Dennison,  whence  he 
was  compelled  to  travel  by  wagon  about  a  hundred  miles  to 
Sioux  City. 

How  constantly  in  service  were  Father  De  Smet's  powers 
of  observation  is  well  illustrated  by  the  accurate  description 
he  has  given  us  of  the  rolling  prairie  country  of  Iowa  —  a 
description  which  will  at  once  appeal  to  any  one  who  has 
ever  crossed  that  country :  "All  this  region  resembles  an 
agitated  sea,  suddenly  become  motionless.  Day  after  day, 
it  is  the  same  monotony.  You  go  up  and  down  an  inter- 
minable succession  of  larger  or  smaller  hills  and  valleys, 
like  terrestrial  billows.  A  fringe  of  timber  can  be  seen 
along  the  streams  and  in  some  deep  valleys  and  ravines  in 
the  higher  portions.  In  summer  this  region  is  an  ocean  of 
verdure,  adorned  with  flowers,  always  agreeable  to  the  eye. 
In  autumn,  fires  run  over  it  and  cover  the  whole  surface 
with  the  sad  black  tint  of  mourning.  Then  comes  winter 
and  spreads  its  shroud  of  white  over  all  nature." 

From  Sioux  City  Father  De  Smet  took  the  steamer  Gui- 
don and  continued  his  route  up  the  river.  With  him  were 
twenty-six  Yankton  Sioux  and  their  chief  Pananniapapi, 
a  Christian  Indian,  between  whom  and  Father  De  Smet 
there  had  long  subsisted  the  most  affectionate  friendship. 
The  destination  of  the  Indians  was  the  Yankton  Agency 
near  Fort  Randall.  Father  De  Smet  stopped  there  a  few 
days  until  the  Bighorn,  which  had  his  main  outfit  on  board, 


WHY   THE   INDIANS    FOUGHT.  9I 

should  arrive.  He  lodged  at  the  house  of  the  agent  and 
there  set  up  his  altar  and  ministered  to  the  spiritual  welfare 
of  the  Indians  while  he  was  among  them. 

Upon  the  arrival  of  the  Bighorn  Father  De  Smet  resumed 
his  journey.  All  along  the  river  from  the  Yankton  Agency 
to  Fort  Buford  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone, —  at  Forts 
Thompson,  Sully,  Rice  and  Berthold  —  there  were  hun- 
dreds and  thousands  of  Indians  in  waiting.  Father  De 
Smet's  interviews  with  them  were  everywhere  satisfactory 
and  it  seemed  to  him  that  peace  was  clearly  in  sight  if  the 
Indians  could  be  assured  of  fair  treatment  on  the  part  of 
the  whites.  "  I  am  firmly  convinced,"  he  writes,  "  that  if 
the  just  claims  of  the  Indians  are  attended  to;  if  their  an-' 
nuities  are  paid  them  at  the  proper  time  and  place;  if  the 
agents  and  other  employees  of  the  Government  treat  them 
with  honesty  and  justice;  if  they  are  supplied  with  the 
necessary  tools  for  carpentry  and  agriculture  —  the  tribes 
of  the  Upper  Missouri  will  maintain  peace  with  the  whites ; 
and  the. warlike  bands  who  to-day  infest  the  plains  of  the 
Far  West  and  the  valley  of  the  Platte,  where  there  is  so 
much  destruction  of  property  and  loss  of  life,  will  promptly 
cease  their  depredations  and  would  not  be  long  in  joining 
the  stay-at-home  tribes." 

This  was  undoubtedly  the  case ;  but  the  conditions  named 
by  Father  De  Smet  were  impracticable.  The  onward  rush 
of  emigration  could  not  be  checked,  and  it  was  that  that 
made  the  difficulty.      It  drew  all  the  lesser  evils  in  its  train. 

Father  De  Smet  sent  several  embassies  to  the  hostile  In- 
dians and  succeeded  in  getting  upward  of  a  hundred  chiefs 
and  warriors  to  come  to  Fort  Rice  and  meet  Generals  Sully 
and  Parker ;  but  owing  to  the  delay  of  arrival  of  these  two 
officers,  the  Indians  were  compelled  to  leave,  on  account  of 
lack  of  provisions,  without  having  seen  them.  They  sent 
back  word  that  they  were  very  anxious  to  see  them  and  that 
they  were  desirous  of  peace. 

Father  De  Smet  spent  nearly  four  months  on  this  mis- 
sion, in  which  time  he  did  a  great  deal  to  prepare  the  minds 


92  WHAT    NO    OTHER    COULD    DO. 

of  the  Indians  for  peace.  On  his  way  down  the  river  he 
met,  at  Fort  Leavenworth,  the  new  Peace  Commission  ap- 
pointed by  the  Government  to  take  up  the  whole  question 
of  deahng  with  the  Indians.  It  was  composed  of  several 
of  the  leading  officers  of  the  Army.  They  invited  Father 
De  Smet  to  become  one  of  their  number  and  accompany 
them  in  all  their  visits  to  the  tribes.  He  accepted,  but  his 
baggage  having  gone  to  St.  Louis,  he  was  obliged  to  go 
after  it.  While  there  he  was  taken  seriously  ill  and  his 
physicians  would  not  consent  to  his  going  on  the  trip,^ 

As  soon  as  Father  De  Smet's  health  would  permit  he 
took  up  with  his  accustomed  energy  the  matter  of  reaching 
the  hostile  Indians  the  following  year;  for  it  was  expected 
that  he  would  accompany  the  new  commission  on  their 
tour.  His  letters,  both  to  the  agents  in  the  upper 
country  and  to  his  correspondents  elsewhere,  are  full  of 
the  details  of  the  important  work.  Briefly,  his  program 
was  to  penetrate  the  interior  from  Fort  Rice  or  Fort  Ber- 
thold  and  find  the  hostiles,  and  try  to  bring  them  to  some 
point  where  the  commissioners  could  meet  them.  It  was 
a  most  dangerous  undertaking,  for  it  was  not  believed  that 
any  white  man  could  approach  them  unprotected  except  at 
the  cost  of  his  life.  It  is  saying  a  great  deal  that  there  was 
only  one  man  in  the  United  States  who  could  do  this,  but  we 
believe  it  to  be  the  truth.^ 

On  the  30th  of  March,  1868,  Father  De  Smet  left  St. 
Louis  on  the  most  important  mission  of  his  whole  career. 
He  was  in  company  with  the  members  of  the  commission, 

1  The  Secretary  of  the  Interior  wrote  thus  to  Father  De  Smet  con- 
cerning his  work  on  this  expedition :  "  You  will  please  accept  my 
thanks  for  the  faithful  and  efficient  manner  in  which  you  have  dis- 
charged the  duties  entrusted  to  your  care." 

2  "  Father  De  Smet,  alone  of  the  entire  white  race,  could  penetrate  to 
these  cruel  savages  and  return  safe  and  sound.  One  of  the  chiefs,  in 
speaking  to  him  while  he  was  in  the  hostile  camp,  said  to  him :  '  If 
it  had  been  any  other  man  than  you.  Black-robe,  this  day  would  have 
been  his  last'  " —  General  Stanley. 


THE    PRIEST    AND    THE    PEOPLE.  93 

including  Generals  Sherman,  Sheridan,  Harney,  Terry  and 
several  others.  They  went  to  Omaha  via  Chicago  and 
thence  to  Cheyenne,  holding  a  council  with  some  Sioux 
bands  on  the  way.  From  Cheyenne  they  made  a  brief 
pleasure  excursion  to  Sherman  Pass  across  which  the  new 
Union  Pacific  railway  had  but  recently  been  built.  The 
commissioners  then  went  to  Fort  Laramie  while  De  Smet 
returned  to  Omaha  to  go  from  there  to  Fort  Rice.  He 
left  Omaha  on  the  steamer  Columbia,  but  made  slow  prog- 
ress owing  to  low  water. 

Father  De  Smet  in  his  narrative  of  this  voyage  mentions 
some  of  the  characteristic  experiences  which  his  long  ac- 
quaintance with  the  Indian  country  had  developed.  If  it 
was  known  that  he  was  coming  up  the  river  there  were 
always  people  at  the  landings  to  see  him.  "  When  the  boat 
stopped  to  cut  or  load  a  supply  of  wood,"  he  writes,  "  I  often 
had  occasion  to  exercise  the  holy  ministry  among  the  in- 
habitants of  the  region  who  came  down  to  the  woodyard 
or  wharf,  marrying  couples  who  were  awaiting  the  presence 
of  a  priest  to  receive  the  nuptial  benediction,  and  regenerat- 
ing in  the  holy  waters  of  baptism  a  great  number  of  children 
and  numerous  adults." 

And  this  is  the  experience  he  usually  passed  through 
when  he  found  himself  among  a  boat-load  of  passengers : 
"  When  the  priest  appears  in  the  midst  of  such  a  throng  he 
is  critically  scrutinized.  He  is  measured  from  head  to  foot. 
He  is  like  a  curious  beast  in  a  menagerie.  He  is  regarded 
with  surprise  and  people  are  slow  to  approach  him.  But 
once  the  ice  is  broken,  he  is  overwhelmed  with  questions 
upon  all  points  of  religion.  These  questions  are  quite  often 
sensible  enough,  but  generally  they  are  odd  and  sometimes 
even  indelicate  and  gross,  denoting  a  profound  ignorance 
which  inspires  only  pity  and  compassion." 

The  Columbia  arrived  at  Fort  Rice  May  24th.  Father 
De  Smet  passed  a  week  in  religious  work  among  the  Indians 
and  Catholic  soldiers,  baptizing,  marrying,  and  receiving 


94  PREPARATIONS    FOR    THE    INTERIOR. 

confessions.^  He  then  spent  two  days  in  interviews  with 
the  chiefs  and  in  making  preparations  for  departure.  His 
plan  seemed  wildly  audacious  to  both  whites  and  Indians, 
and  they  freely  predicted  a  fatal  termination;  but  he  told 
them  that  thousands  of  pure  souls  were  praying  for  him 
and  that  their  prayers  would  be  heard  and  he  would  return 
in  safety.  His  answer  inspired  courage.  There  were  all 
the  volunteers  that  he  needed.  Mr.  Charles  E.  Galpin,  an 
old  Indian  trader  of  great  experience,  who  had  married 
among  the  Sioux,  accompanied  him  as  interpreter.  There 
were  besides  several  of  the  principal  chiefs  and  eighty  war- 
riors representing  nearly  all  the  Sioux  bands.  They  went 
in  the  double  capacity  of  protecting  Father  De  Smet,  if  need 
were,  and  of  persuading  their  hostile  brethren  to  listen  to 
him. 

The  first  object  of  their  journey  was  to  find  the  camp  of 
the  hostiles,  made  up  of  malcontents  from  the  various 
Sioux  bands,  who  were  uncompromising  in  their  hatred 
of  the  whites  and  who  refused  to  enter  into  any  treaties 
with  them.  It  was  these  Indians,  a  very  numerous  and 
powerful  band,  who  were  responsible  for  the  depredations 
and  savage  cruelties  at  that  time  so  prevalent  throughout 
the  West.  The  start  was  made  on  the  morning  of  the  3d 
of  June:  "  We  were  all  assembled;  "  says  Father  De  Smet, 
"  a  large  circle  was  formed,  in  which  several  officers  from 
the  fort  and  some  of  the  soldiers  joined,  besides  a  great 
number  of  Indians  from  all  these  different  tribes.  I  then 
offered  a  solemn  prayer  to  the  Great  Spirit  to  put  us  in 
his  keeping,  and  made  a  short  address  to  the  numerous 
friends  who  surrounded  us,  recommending  us  to  their 
pious  recollection." 

Father  De  Smet  gives  at  considerable  length  the  details 

3  "  In  my  quality  of  envoy  extraordinary  of  the  Government,  I  was 
accorded  the  title  of  Major,  singularly  associated,  it  must  be  admitted, 
with  that  of  Jesuit.  However,  it  had  this  advantage  that  it  gave  me 
easier  access  to  the  soldiers,  of  whom  a  large  number  are  Catholics. 
I  gave  them,  as  priest,  not  as  major,  all  my  spare  time." 


SEARCH    FOR    THE    HOSTILE    SIOUX.  95 

of  this  remarkable  expedition.  The  route  lay  directly 
west  from  Fort  Rice,  south  of  the  modern  line  of  the 
Northern  Pacific  Railroad,  for  upward  of  350  miles  to  the 
place  where  the  Powder  river  empties  into  the  Yellow- 
stone. It  was  a  long  and  tedious  march,  involving  a 
passage  of  the  Bad  Lands  country;  but  everybody  was  in 
good  cheer  and  the  physical  obstacles  did  no  more  than 
retard  their  progress.  On  the  9th  of  June,  having  seen 
no  signs  of  the  hostile  band,  some  scouts  were  sent  out 
to  beat  up  the  country.  The  line  of  march  of  the  main 
column  was  agreed  upon  and  the  scouts  were  to  rejoin 
it  as  soon  as  they  should  gain  any  definite  information. 
They  were  given  liberal  presents  of  tobacco  to  present  to 
the  hostiles,  if  found,  for  the  sending  of  tobacco  "  is  the 
same  thing  as  a  formal  invitation,  or  the  announcement  of 
the  desire  to  meet  and  confer  upon  important  matters.  If 
the  tobacco  is  accepted,  it  is  a  sure  sign  that  you  will  be 
admitted  among  them;  if,  on  the  contrary,  it  is  refused, 
you  may  understand  that  all  communication  is  forbidden, 
and  govern  yourself  accordingly." 

On  the  1 6th  the  scouts  returned  "  at  the  head  of  a 
deputation  of  eighteen  warriors,  announcing  their  arrival 
by  shouts  and  joyful  songs.  All  came  and  shook  hands 
with  me  with  especial  eagerness,  and  after  we  had  smoked 
the  pipe  of  peace  together, —  a  first  proof  of  their  good 
will  toward  me  —  they  announced  in  the  name  of  the 
head  chiefs  of  their  camp,  that  '  my  tobacco  had  been 
favorably  received;  that  entry  into  their  camp  was  open 
to  the  Black-robe  alone;  that  no  other  white  man  would 
get  out  of  it  with  his  scalp;  and  that  all  the  chiefs  and 
warriors  were  awaiting  me  with  impatience,  wishing  to 
hear  me  and  learn  the  motives  of  my  visit.'  Afterwards 
we  exchanged  news.  I  learned  that  the  big  camp  was 
three  days'  march  away,  in  the  Yellowstone  valley,  a  few 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  Powder  river.  The  night  was 
spent  in  feasts  between  the  Indians  of  my  escort  and  the 
newcomers,    mingled    with    joyful    songs    and    fraternal 


96  THE    WARRIORS    CAME    TO    MEET    HIM. 

rounds  of  the  calumet.  There  were  uproarious  reunions, 
a  la  sauvage,  but  harmony  and  cordiaHty  prevailed." 

Pursuing  their  march  through  a  most  difficult  tract  of 
country,  they  finally  came,  on  the  19th,  to  the  bluffs  of 
Powder  river,  and  beheld  from  their  crest  a  beautiful  pano- 
rama outspread  before  them.  In  a  country  where  there 
is  not  moisture  enough  to  sustain  trees,  and  the  eye  is 
rarely  refreshed  by  the  sight  of  that  beautiful  object  in 
nature,  it  is  an  exquisite  joy  to  the  weary  traveler  to 
come  upon  a  large  stream  whose  banks  are  lined  with 
forests.  Standing  upon  the  lofty  bluffs  that  define  the 
courses  of  the  Powder  and  Yellowstone  valleys,  our  trav- 
elers beheld  to  the  west  the  broad  valley  of  the  latter 
stream  and  to  the  south  that  of  the  Powder.  Along  each 
were  lines  of  trees  that  marked  the  course  of  the  streams 
as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  while  the  ghmmering  water 
appeared  here  and  there  like  quiet  mirrors  on  the 
landscape. 

But  Father  De  Smet  saw  other  sights  on  this  occasion 
which  gave  him  but  little  time  to  admire  the  beauties  of 
nature.  "  Some  four  miles  off  in  the  Powder  river  bot- 
toms," he  writes,  "  we  saw  a  strong  force  of  horsemen 
composed  of  400  to  500  warriors  coming  to  meet  me.  I 
at  once  had  my  standard  of  peace  hoisted,  with  the  holy 
name  of  Jesus  on  one  side  and  on  the  other  the  image  of 
the  Virgin  Mary,  surrounded  with  gilt  stars.  They  took 
it  at  first  sight  for  the  hated  flag  of  the  United  States.  At 
this  signal  all  the  cavalcade  halted  and  appeared  to  enter 
into  consultation.  Immediately  afterward,  the  four  head 
chiefs  came  toward  us  at  full  speed  and  seemed,  as  it  were, 
to  flit  around  the  banner.  They  considered  it,  and  upon 
preceiving  its  meaning  and  high  importance,  they  came 
up  and  shook  my  hand  and  made  signals  to  all  their  war- 
riors to  advance.  They  then  formed  into  a  single  long  line 
or  phalanx;  we  did  the  same,  and  with  the  flag  at  our  head 
we  went  to  meet  them.  At  the  same  time  the  air  re- 
sounded with  shouts  and  songs  of  joy  on  both  sides.     I 


ENTRY    INTO    SITTING    BULL  S    CAMP.  97 

was  touched  even  to  tears  at  the  sight  of  the  reception 
which  these  sons  of  the  desert,  still  in  paganism,  had  pre- 
pared for  the  poor  Black-robe.  It  was  the  fairest  spec- 
tacle in  which  I  have  ever  had  the  happiness  of  taking 
part." 

There  was  much  wild  noise  and  commotion,  but  all  in 
good  spirit,  and  when  they  reached  the  main  body,  Father 
De  Smet  shook  hands  with  all  of  them  and  won  their 
hearts  at  once  by  the  benevolence  of  his  manner  and  his 
evident  interest  in  their  welfare.  It  now  remained  to 
make  the  final  march  of  some  ten  or  twelve  miles  to  the 
main  camp.  Four  head  chiefs  acted  as  a  bodyguard  to 
Father  De  Smet  to  protect  him  against  any  treacherous 
attack.  After  crossing  Powder  river  close  column  was 
formed  and  everything  was  conducted  with  military  strict- 
ness and  precision.  At  the  head  of  the  column  was  Father 
De  Smet's  banner.  The  Indians  were  decked  out  in  the 
ultra  style  of  the  wild  warriors,  to  a  degree,  in  fact,  rarely 
witnessed  at  that  late  day.  It  was  an  impressive  and  awe- 
inspiring  scene.  "  Nevertheless,"  says  Father  De  Smet, 
"  my  heart  was  as  tranquil  and  my  mind  as  calm  as  if  I 
had  been  in  the  midst  of  you." 

They  found  the  main  camp  to  consist  of  some  four  or 
five  thousand  Indians  who  received  them  with  every  dem- 
onstration of  joy.     A  large  lodge  had  been  prepared  for 
Father  De  Smet  by  Sitting  Bull,  the  leader  of  the  hostiles. 
The  Father  was  weary  with  his  long  journey  and  after  a 
little  luncheon  lay  down  in  his  lodge  and  went  to  sleep. 
When  he  awoke  Sitting  Bull  was  beside  him,  and  with 
him  were  three  other  leading  chiefs.     Sitting  Bull  at  once 
addressed  Father  De  Smet:  "  Black-robe,  I  hardly  sustain 
myself  beneath  the  weight  of  white  men's  blood.ti^at.I  havp^ 
shed.     The  whites  provoked  the  \yar;  tlieir  injustices,- their: 
indignities  to  our  families,  the  cruel,  uy,h<:ard-af  and  wbojly 
unprovoked  massacre  at  Fort  Lyon,"  (\vheix  Ch,iyi:ngion^. 
commanded)  "  of  six  or  seven  hundred  women,  children 
7 


98  ACROSS    A    QUARTER    OF    A    CENTURY. 

and  old  men,  shook  all  the  veins  which  bind  and  support 
me.  I  rose,  tomahawk  in  hand,  and  I  have  done  all  the 
hurt  to  the  whites  that  I  could.  Today  thou  art  amongst 
us,  and  in  thy  presence  my  arms  stretch  to  the  ground  as 
if  dead.  I  will  listen  to  thy  good  words,  and  as  bad  as 
I  have  been  to  the  whites,  just  as  good  am  I  ready  to  be- 
come toward  them." 

The  chiefs  and  Father  De  Smet  then  conferred  about 
the  great  council  which  it  was  proposed  to  hold  on  the 
morrow  to  determine  what  should  be  done  about  going 
to  see  the  commissioners.  The  rest  of  the  day  until  late 
at  night  was  spent  in  visits  and  conversations  with  the 
leading  men  of  the  camp.  Here  occurred  one  of  those 
striking  incidents  with  which  Father  De  Smet's  inter- 
course with  the  Indians  was  so  full.  We  give  it  in  the 
Father's  own  words :  "A  venerable  old  man,  of  remarkable 
stature,  but  bowed  beneath  the  weight  of  age,  supporting 
himself  on  a  staff  tipped  with  an  old  bayonet,  came  to 
offer  me  his  hand  and  express  his  happiness  at  seeing  me 
again.  He  wore  upon  his  breast  a  copper  cross,  old  and 
worn.  This  was  the  only  religious  token  that  I  had  ob- 
served in  all  the  camp;  it  filled  me  with  joy  and  emotion. 
I  questioned  him  eagerly  and  with  interest,  to  know  from 
whom  he  had  received  it.  After  a  moment's  thought,  and 
counting  on  his  fingers,  he  answered,  '  It  was  you.  Black- 
robe,  who  gave  me  this  cross.  I  have  never  laid  it  aside 
for  twenty-six  snows.  The  cross  has  raised  me  to  the 
clouds  among  my  people  '  (meaning  that  it  had  made  him 
great  and  respectable).  '  If  I  still  walk  on  earth,  it  is  to 
the  cross  that  I  owe  it.  and  the  Great  Spirit  has  blessed 
my  numerous  family.' 

"  I  begged  him  .to  explain  further,  and  he  continued: 
.'  When.  I  wiis  yourtger,  I  loved  whiskey  to  madness,  and  at 
everyc-hance  I  would  get  drunk  and  commit  excesses.  It 
is  now  twenty-six 'mows  since  my  last  turbulent  orgy.  I 
-was,' stupid  and  si-ck  from  it;  just  then  I  had  the  good 
fortune  to  meet  you,  and  you  made  known  to  me  that  my 


THE    OPENING    OF    THE    COUNCIL.  99 

behavior  \vas  against  the  will  of  the  Master  of  Life  and 
offended  him  grievously.  Since  then  I  have  often  had 
opportunities;  my  friends  have  sometimes  sought  to  in- 
duce me  to  join  them  in  their  illicit  enjoyments,  and  often 
my  old  evil  inclination  would  combat  my  good  will  which 
desired  to  resist  the  temptation.  Every  time  the  cross 
has  come  to  my  help.  I  would  take  it  between  my  hands, 
imploring  the  Great  Spirit  to  give  me  strength,  and  your 
words,  Black-robe,  would  come  to  my  mind.  Ever  since 
we  first  met,  I  have  renounced  drink,  and  have  never 
tasted  a  drop.'  " 

Father  De  Smet  was  deeply  touched  by  the  incident  and 
endeavored  to  instill  into  the  mind  of  the  Indian  the 
deeper  truths  of  the  Christian  life.  The  old  man  was  so 
enraptured  with  the  venerable  apostle  that  when  Father 
De  Smet  left  the  council  he  followed  him  over  three  hun- 
dred miles. 

The  20th  of  June  was  the  day  set  for  the  council  and 
great  preparations  were  made  for  it.  A  circular  space  of 
about  170  feet  in  diameter  was  inclosed  by  a  high  wall 
composed  of  large  skin  tepees  of  some  twenty  robes  each, 
spread  out  flat  and  hung  from  pine  posts  set  around  the 
circumference  of  the  circle.  Father  De  Smet's  banner 
was  hoisted  on  the  side  of  the  circle  opposite  the  entrance 
and  a  seat  was  prepared  for  him  near  it.  When  the 
Indians  had  taken  their  places.  Father  De  Smet  "  was 
solemnly  introduced  into  this  salon  champetre,  which  was 
improvised  for  the  occasion  by  the  two  head  chiefs.  Four 
Horns  and  Black  Moon.  I  took  my  seat.  The  council 
was  opened  with  songs  and  dances,  noisy,  joyful  and  very 
wild,  in  which  the  warriors  alone  took  part.  Then  Four 
Horns  lighted  his  calumet  of  peace;  he  presented  it  first 
solemnly  to  the  Great  Spirit,  imploring  his  light  and  favor, 
and  then  offered  it  to  the  four  cardinal  points,  to  the  sun 
and  the  earth,  as  witnesses  to  the  action  of  the  council. 
Then  he  himself  passed  the  calumet  from  mouth  to  mouth. 
I  was  the  first  to  receive  it,\vith  my  interpreter,  and  every 


lOO  THE    OLD    MISSIONARY  S    ERRAND. 

chief  was  placed  according  to  the  rank  that  he  held  in  the 
tribe.  Each  one  took  a  few  pufifs.  When  the  ceremony 
of  the  calumet  was  finished,  the  head  chief  addressed  me, 
saying,  '  Speak,  Black-robe,  my  ears  are  open  to  hear 
your  words.'  All  this  was  done  with  the  greatest  gravity 
and  amid  a  profound  silence." 

Father  De  Smet  then  arose  and  lifted  his  hands  to 
heaven  and  offered  a  prayer  to  the  Great  Spirit,  implor- 
ing his  blessing  upon  this  solemn  occasion.  Then  for  an 
hour  he  talked  to  them  of  his  mission;  the  purely  disinter- 
ested motives  that  had  brought  him  there;  the  wish  of  the 
Great  Father  for  peace;  the  atrocious  crimes  that  had  been 
committed  on  both  sides;  the  readiness  of  the  Great  Father 
to  aid  them,  and  the  uselessness  of  contending  against  his 
strength,  so  many  times  greater  than  their  own.  TheSe 
points  were  all  discussed  at  considerable  length.  Four 
chiefs  spoke,  but  Father  De  Smet  gives  us  only  the  speech 
of  Black  Moon,  which,  he  says,  was  essentially  the  same 
as  the  others.  With  all  the  solemnity  and  stately  form  of 
Indian  ceremony,  "  he  rose,  calumet  in  hand,  and  address- 
ing his  people,  said:  '  Lend  an  ear  to  my  words.'  Then 
he  raised  the  calumet  solemnly  to  heaven  and  lowered  it 
to  earth;  thus  invoking,  by  the  Indian  interpretation, 
heaven  and  earth  as  his  witnesses.  At  his  request  I 
touched  the  calumet  with  my  lips,  putting  my  right  hand 
on  the  stem.  Then  he  said  in  a  loud  voice:  '  The  Black- 
robe  has  made  a  long  journey  to  come  to  us;  his  presence 
among  us  makes  me  very  glad,  and  with  all  my  heart  I 
wish  him  welcome  to  my  country.  I  can  understand  all 
the  words  that  the  Black-robe  has  just  said  to  us;  they 
are  good  and  filled  with  truth.  I  shall  lay  them  up  in  my 
memory.  Still,  our  hearts  are  sore;  they  have  received 
deep  wounds.  These  wounds  have  yet  to  be  healed.  A 
cruel  war  has  desolated  and  impoverished  our  country;  the 
desolating  torch  of  war  was  not  kindled  by  us;  it  was  the 
Sioux  east  of  us  and  the  Cheyennes  south  of  us  who  raised 
the  war  first,  to  revenge  themselves  for  the  white  man's 


BLACK    MOON  S    ADDRESS.  lOI 

cruelties  and  injustice.  We  have  been  forced  to  take  part, 
for  we  too  have  been  victims  of  his  rapacity  and  wrong- 
doing. To-day,  when  we  ride  over  our  plains,  we  find 
them  spotted  here  and  there  with  blood;  and  these  are  not 
the  bloodstains  of  bufifalo  and  deer  killed  in  the  chase,  but 
those  of  our  own  comrades  or  of  white  men  sacrificed  to 
vengeance.  The  bufifalo,  the  elk,  the  antelope,  the  bighorn 
and  the  deer  have  quitted  our  immense  plains;  we  hardly 
find  them  any  more,  except  at  intervals,  and  always  less 
numerous.  May  it  not  be  the  odor  of  human  blood  that 
puts  them  to  flight? 

"  '  I  will  say  further  —  against  our  will  the  whites  are 
interlacing  our  country  with  their  highways  of  transporta- 
tion and  emigration;  they  build  forts  at  various  points  and 
mount  thunders  upon  them.  They  kill  our  animals,  and 
more  than  they  need.  They  are  cruel  to  our  people,  mal- 
treat and  massacre  them  without  reason,  or  for  the  slight- 
est cause,  even  when  they  are  searching  for  food,  for  ani- 
mals and  roots,  to  nourish  their  wives  and  children.  They 
cut  down  our  forests  in  spite  of  us  and  without  paying 
us  their  value.  They  are  ruining  our  land.  We  are 
opposed  to  having  these  big  roads  which  drive  the  bufTalo 
away  from  our  country.  This  soil  is  ours  and  we  are  de- 
termined not  to  yield  an  inch  of  it.  Here  our  fathers 
were  born  and  are  buried.  We  desire,  like  them,  to  live 
here,  and  to  be  buried  in  this  same  soil.  We  have  been 
forced  to  hate  the  whites;  let  them  treat  us  like  brothers 
and  the  war  will  cease.  Let  them  stay  at  home;  we  will 
never  go  to  trouble  them.  To  see  them  come  into  our 
land  and  build  their  cabins  revolts  us,  and  we  are  deter- 
mined to  resist  or  die.  Thou,  Messenger  of  Peace,  thou 
hast  given  us  a  glimpse  of  a  better  future.  Very  well ;  so 
be  it;  let  us  hope.  Let  us  throw  a  veil  over  the  past  and 
let  it  be  forgotten. 

"  '  I  have  only  a  word  more  to  say.  In  the  presence  of 
all  my  people,  I  express  to  you  here  my  thanks  for  the 
good  news  that  you  have  announced  and  for  all  your  good 


102  A    REMARKABLE    ACHIEVEMENT. 

counsel  and  advice.  We  accept  your  tobacco.  Some  of 
our  warriors  will  go  with  you  to  Fort  Rice  to  hear  the 
words  and  the  propositions  of  the  Great  Father's  com- 
missioners. If  their  words  are  acceptable,  peace  shall  be 
made.'  " 

Sitting  Bull,  Two  Bears  and  Running  Antelope  followed 
Black  Moon.  After  the  council  had  lasted  some  four 
hours  it  was  decided  to  send  a  deputation  to  meet  the 
commissioners.  The  Indians  begged  Father  De  Smet  to 
leave  his  banner  with  them  as  a  memento  of  the  occasion, 
and  he  acceded  to  their  request.  He  then  withdrew  to  his 
lodge,  whither  he  was  followed  by  many  Indians  and  par- 
ticularly by  mothers  with  their  children. 

The  return  journey  was  begun  on  the  morning  of  the 
2ist,  and  on  the  30th  of  June  they  entered  Fort  Rice 
amid  the  enthusiastic  greetings  of  all  present.  The  coun- 
cil with  the  commissioners  took  place  two  days  later,  and  a 
treaty  of  peace  was  signed  by  all  the  chiefs  and  principal 
warriors.  Then,  on  the  3d  and  4tli  of  July,  a  general 
distribution  of  presents  was  made  and  the  council  closed 
to  the  joy  and  satisfaction  of  both  parties. 

Father  De  Smet's  work  on  this  occasion  was  now  done 
and  he  at  once  set  out  for  home.  His  achievement  was 
one  of  the  most  remarkable  in  the  history  of  our  Indian 
wars.  He  was  sixty-eight  years  old  and  suffering  with 
bodily  infirmities  which  in  a  few  years  were  to  end  fatally. 
He  made  a  journey  of  350  miles  through  a  rough  and  un- 
known country  to  a  large  force  of  Indians  who  had  sworn 
death  to  any  white  man  who  might  fall  within  their  power. 
There  was  no  other  man  who  could  approach  them.  Yet 
by  virtue  of  his  great  reputation  among  all  the  tribes, 
their  absolute  faith  in  his  word  and  their  belief  that  he  had 
their  interests  at  heart,  and,  we  may  add,  his  devout  trust 
in  the  Lord  whom  he  served,  he  did  this  remarkable  thing, 
and  brought  about  a  peace  in  the  most  hateful  and  diffi- 
cult situation  that  our  Government  had  been  called  upon 
to  face  in  all  its  troubles  with  the  Indians.      The  com- 


RETURN    HOME    IN    SAFETY.  IO3 

missioners  formally  acknowledged  that,  but  for  Father 
De  Smet,  their  work  would  have  been  a  failure.  "  We  are 
well  aware/'  they  wrote  him,  "  that  our  thanks  can  be  of 
little  worth  to  you,  and  that  you  will  find  your  true  reward 
for  your  labors  and  for  the  dangers  and  privations  which 
you  have  encountered  in  the  consciousness  that  you  have 
done  much  to  promote  peace  on  earth  and  good  will  to 
men." 

Father  De  Smet  stopped  at  Fort  Sully  on  his  way  down 
the  river  to  minister  to  the  spiritual  welfare  of  the  Indians 
there,  and  then  resumed  his  voyage.  He  next  stopped  at 
Fort  Leavenworth  and  went  to  St.  Mary's  Mission,  and 
finally  arrived  in  St.  Louis  about  August  20th. 


CHAPTER  X. 

CHARACTER   OF    FATHER  DE  SMET. 

Visit  to  Europe  —  Return  in   1869 — Visit  to  the  Sioux  country  in 
1870 — Bodily  ailments  —  Serious  illness  —  Launching  of  the  De  Smet 

—  Last  sickness  —  Death  and  burial  —  Character  sketch. 

^  FTER  Father  De  Smet's  return  from  the  upper 
^^  country  he  sailed  for  Europe,  leaving  St.  Louis 
on  the  2 1  St  of  November,  1868.  He  arrived  at  Termonde, 
his  native  place,  about  the  middle  of  December  and  re- 
mained there  the  rest  of  the  year.  In  the  spring  he 
visited  the  principal  cities  of  Belgium,  Holland,  France 
and  England,  and  sailed  for  America  on  the  21st  of  June, 
reaching  St.  Louis  July  4th.  That  fall  he  visited  Omaha, 
St.  Mary's  Mission  and  Chicago. 

On  June  i,  1870,  he  left  St.  Louis  on  his  last  voyage 
to  the  Indian  country,  going  as  far  as  the  Grand  River 
Agency.  The  particular  purpose  of  this  trip  was  to  ar- 
range for  the  establishment  of  a  mission  among  the  Sioux 

—  an  object  which  had  long  been  dear  to  him  but  which 
he  was  never  able  to  carry  out.  He  returned  to  St. 
Louis  early  in  August. 

Owing  to  bodily  indispositions  Father  De  Smet  re- 
mained quietly  in  St.  Louis,  except  for  a  brief  visit  to 
Chicago,  until  June  25,  1871,  when  he  left  for  Europe. 
His  time  while  abroad  on  this  last  visit  to  his  native  land 
was  spent  much  as  his  other  visits  had  been,  in  touring  the 
principal  cities  from  which  he  could  expect  aid  to  the 
Indian  missions.  He  left  Europe  April  11,  1872,  and 
crossed  the  Atlantic  for  the  last  time,  being  his  nineteenth 
voyage  in  the  past  fifty  years.  He  remained  in  St.  Louis 
the  rest  of  the  year. 

The  frequent   use  of  the  word   "  last "   in   describing 

[104] 


AGE  CREEPS  ON  APACE,  IO5 

Father  De  Smet's  doings  in  later  years  suggests  only  too 
clearly  that  the  end  of  his  life  was  at  hand.  It  was  indeed 
so,  but  before  recording  this  inevitable  event  in  human 
life,  it  will  be  well  to  note  some  facts  regarding  the  fail- 
ing health  of  the  good  priest. 

In  spite  of  his  longevity  and  great  physical  powers, 
Father  De  Smet  was  far  from  enjoying  uninterrupted 
good  health,  and  in  the  last  twenty  years  of  his  life  was 
never  free  from  bodily  ailments.  This  condition  was  un- 
doubtedly due  in  large  degree  to  the  hardships  of  his 
missionary  work  and  it  began  to  develop  soon  after  his 
return  from  Oregon  in  1846.  He  was  at  this  time  and 
for  several  years  afterward  at  the  maximum  of  his  physical 
weight,  about  215  pounds.  His  corpulency  did  not  please 
him,  although  he  carried  his  flesh  well,  and  was  considered 
a  remarkably  fine  looking  man.  "  Pray  hard  for  me,"  he 
wrote  to  a  friend  in  1851,  "  for  my  bones  are  getting  too 
much  covered.  I  begin  to  be  uncomfortable,  and  daily 
must  I  hear  'How  well  you  look!'  'You  are  improv- 
ing! '  '  What  a  fine  country  the  Rocky  Mountains  must 
be! '  Should  I  ever  return  to  my  old  haunts,  a  great 
number  of  the  lean  gentry  of  St.  Louis  are  determined  to 
follow  me  and  try  their  luck  on  buffalo,  bear,  badger  and 
dog  meat." 

He  was  ailing  a  good  deal  in  the  years  1849-51,  and  in 
1853  writes:  "  For  two  or  three  years  back  I  find  myself 
sensibly  on  the  decline,"  his  eyesight,  in  particular,  fail- 
ing rapidly.  For  the  next  few  years  he  was  very  well, 
and  in  1856  he  records  that  "  for  years  I  have  not  been 
compelled  to  have  recourse  to  a  physician."  But  at  the 
time  of  the  Utah  and  Oregon  expeditions  he  was  suffering 
a  good  deal  from  an  affection  of  his  throat,  and  in  1861 
he  was  very  ill  with  some  form  of  dyspepsia,  and  later  in 
the  same  year  with  erysipelas.  In  the  winter  of  1863-4 
he  was  dangerously  ill  with  a  combination  of  troubles,  and 
he  fully  expected,  at  one  time,  that  his  end  had  come.  He 
was  ordered  by  his  physician  to  let  his  beard  grow  for  a 


I06  THE    END    APPROACHES. 

while,  and  with  the  natural  mirthfulness  of  his  tempera- 
ment he  had  his  picture  taken  in  this  condition  and  sent  it 
to  his  family  in  Europe.  In  a  letter  home  at  this  time  he 
refers  to  himself  as  "  broken  down  with  all  sorts  of  in- 
firmities." 

A  particular  trouble  which  had  afflicted  him  for  many 
years  was  deafness  in  one  of  his  ears.  He  frequently  re- 
fers to  his  "  good  ear,"  and  when,  late  in  life,  he  seemed 
liable  to  lose  that  also,  he  was  naturally  very  much  dis- 
turbed. A  strange  result  of  the  extraction  of  a  large  tooth 
had  filled  his  ear  with  such  a  constant  ringing  that  he 
could  practically  hear  nothing.  He  sought  medical  ad- 
vice without  any  good  result,  and  finally  improved  the 
opportunity  of  a  visit  to  Europe  to  see  if  he  could  get 
relief.  Whether  he  ever  experienced  any  material  im- 
provement in  this  respect  his  letters  do  not  say. 

The  most  serious  of  Father  De  Smet's  physical  ailments, 
and  the  one  which  finally  proved  fatal,  was  a  form  of 
Bright's  disease  which,  in  its  later  stages,  was  accompanied 
by  severe  hemorrhages.  By  1867  this  malady  was  already 
giving  him  great  trouble,  and  he  notes  in  the  fall  of 
that  year,  after  a  severe  spell  of  sickness,  that  his  weight 
had  fallen  off  to  167  pounds.  In  Europe  on  his  last 
journey  he  experienced  an  almost  fatal  attack  and  after 
his  return  to  St.  Louis  in  the  spring  of  1872  he  did  not 
again  leave  that  city.  He  nevertheless  kept  very  busy 
\\dth  the  duties  of  his  office  and  carried  on  a  great  deal  of 
correspondence.  Some  of  his  best  work  dates  from  that 
period.  He  began  and  made  some  progress  in  a  history 
of  the  Missouri  Province  which  he  hoped  to  see  completed. 
During  most  of  this  time  he  held  from  the  Government 
the  privilege  of  nominating  agents  to  be  appointed  for  the 
tribes  where  Catholic  missions  were  located. 

The  last  letter  ever  written  by  Father  De  Smet,  or  at 
least  the  last  one  recorded,  is  dated  Alay  12,  1873.  On 
the  next  day  Captain  La  Barge,  who  was  perhaps  at  this 
time  Father  De  Smet's  most  intimate  personal  friend,  was 


u 


DEATH    AND   BURIAL.  IO7 

going  to  launch  a  new  steamboat  which  he  had  named 
De  Smct.  He  besought  Father  De  Smet  to  be  present 
and  bless  the  boat  and  at  the  same  time  visit  his  family. 
Though  not  at  all  well  he  did  not  feel  Hke  declining  the 
request  of  his  friend,  particularly  as  the  boat  was  named 
in  his  honor  and  was  soon  to  visit  those  regions  that  he 
knew  and  loved  so  well. 

Upon  returning  home  in  the  evening  he  was  taken  quite 
ill  and  grew  rapidly  worse.  His  malady  took  a  new  form 
which  necessitated  an  operation;  and  while  it  brought 
temporary  relief,  it  made  manifest  the  fact  that  death 
was  not  far  away.  On  the  20th  of  May  Father  De  Smet 
himself  asked  that  the  last  sacraments  be  administered  to 
him,  and  from  that  time  on  he  lived  only  in  prayer.  The 
end  came  at  a  quarter  after  two  on  the  morning  of  May 

23,   1873- 

The  death  of  Father  De.Smet  produced  a  deep  grief  in 
the  city  of  St.  Louis  where  he  had  made  his  home  for 
almost  exactly  fifty  years.  His  funeral  was  one  of  the 
most  largely  attended  ever  held  in  that  city,  and  among 
the  audience  were  many  distinguished  people.  The  fu- 
neral oration  was  pronounced  by  Monseigneur  Ryan, 
Bishop  Coadjutor  of  Monseigneur  Kendrick,  Archbishop 
of  St.  Louis,  and  was  well  worthy  of  its  subject.^  The 
press  universally  gave  testimony  of  the  high  estimation 
in  which  the  departed  Jesuit  was  held. 

Father  De  Smet  was  buried  in  the  little  cemetery  of  the 
Novitiate  at  Florissant,  at  the  foot  of  the  grave  of  Father 
Verhaegen,  who  had  come  to  this  place  with  him  just 
fifty  years  before. 

In  the  year  1878,  on  the  fifth  anniversary  of  Father 
De  Smet's  death,  there  was  unveiled  in  Termonde,  his 
native  place,  a  fine  statue  of  the  great  missionary.  It  is 
in  bronze,  designed  by  A.  Frakin  and  executed' by  Charles 
Alker,  director  of  the  works  at  Haeren,  Belgium.     The 

1  See  page  1592  of  the  Letters. 


I08  AN    AUGUST    CHARACTER. 

height  of  the  statue  is  thirteen  feet  six  inches,  and  the 
weight  of  the  bronze  casting  is  3,482  pounds.  The  base 
is  carved  from  a  single  piece  of  bkie  Hmestone,  with  panels 
and  suitable  inscriptions  on  its  four  faces.  The  statue  is 
considered  a  very  satisfactory  work,  the  artist  having  suc- 
ceeded well  in  his  attempt  to  portray  the  spirit  of  a  great 
career.  The  missionary  is  represented  in  his  priestly  robes 
in  the  attitude  of  moving  forward,  with  an  eager  expression 
on  the  face,  as  if  intent  upon  the  great  work  before  him. 
In  the  right  hand  is  a  crucifix  indicative  of  his  calling  as  a 
priest  of  God,  and  in  the  other  an  olive  branch,  symbolic 
of  his  work  as  a  peacemaker  among  the  Indian  tribes. 
Termonde  was  proud  of  her  distinguished  offspring,  and 
Belgium,  too,  was  proud  of  him ;  and  he  was  fond  of  both. 

In  bidding  farewell  to  this  august  character  in  our  na- 
tional history,  it  is  well  to  review  some  of  the  traits  of  his 
personality  that  marked  it  off  from  the  average  run  of 
men.  So  far  as  it  is  in  the  power  of  man,  in  this  network 
of  temptation  which  we  call  life,  by  the  constant  exercise 
of  religious  faith  and  duty,  to  free  his  heart  and  conduct  of 
all  sin,  Father  De  Smet  succeeded.  No  one  can  read  his 
Hfe,  even  the  inner  secrets  of  it  as  recorded  in  his  personal 
correspondence,  without  feeling  that  he  is  in  the  presence 
of  a  good  man.  There  were  narrow  prejudices  —  preju- 
dices that  arose  from  his  training  and  environment ;  but 
he  had  practically  mastered  his  personal  cravings,  and 
looked  with  charity  upon  those  who  did  him  wrong.  He 
has  left  us  the  remarkable  statement  that  ''  no  bitterness 
toward  any  one  whomsoever  ever  entered  my  heart;"  a 
statement,  however,  from  which  he  would  probably  ex- 
clude certain  political  organizations  which  aroused  all  the 
hatred  that  a  heart  like  his  was  capable  of. 

He  was  of  a  genial  and  buoyant  temperament,  fond  of 
jest  and  merriment,  and  humorously  disposed.  "  I  am 
naturally  inclined  to  laughter,"  he  once  said,  and  even  the 
staid  formalities  of  the  Indian  councils  so  provoked  his 
mirth  at  times  that  he  had  hard  work  to  keep  a  sober 


FRESH    SENSE    OF    HUMOR.  IO9 

countenance.  He  was  as  willing  to  tell  a  joke  on  himself 
as  on  any  one  else  and  evidently  took  a  keen  relish  in 
depicting  the  awkward  plights  in  which  his  varied  ex- 
periences often  placed  him.  Here  is  an  example:  "  One 
day  I  found  myself  in  a  singular  and  critical  position.  In 
attempting  to  pass  under  a  tree  that  inclined  across  the 
path,  I  perceived  a  small  branch  in  form  of  a  hook,  which 
threatened  me.  The  first  impulse  was  to  extend  myself 
upon  the  neck  of  my  horse.  Unavailing  precaution!  It 
caught  me  by  the  collar  of  my  surtout,  the  horse  still 
continuing  his  pace.  Behold  me  suspended  in  the  air, 
struggling  like  a  fish  at  the  end  of  a  hook.  Several  re- 
spectable pieces  of  my  coat  floated,  in  all  probability,  a 
long  time  in  the  forest,  as  a  proof  of  my  having  paid  toll 
in  passing  through  it.  A  crushed  and  torn  hat,  an  eye 
black  and  blue,  two  deep  scratches  on  the  cheek,  would, 
in  a  civilized  country,  have  given  me  the  appearance  of 
a  bully  issuing  from  the  Black  Forest,  rather  than  of  a  mis- 
sionary." 

The  distressing  experience  of  sickness  at  sea  always  ap- 
pealed to  the  funny  side  of  his  nature.  He  suffered  as  much 
in  this  respect  as  any  of  his  fellow  travelers,  but  he  always 
made  light  of  it  (in  more  senses  than  one)  and  his  letters 
abound  in  amusing  descriptions  of  the  manner  in  which 
Neptune  collected  the  tax  which  he  levied  upon  all  who 
trespassed  upon  his  domain. 

Sometimes,  in  a  quiet  way  to  his  close  associates,  he  im- 
parted his  views  upon  the  well-intentioned,  yet  often  mis- 
directed charity,  to  which  he  was  subject  as  procurator  of  the 
missions.     He  once  wrote  to  a  friend  in  Paris  : 

*  *  *  "  Mademoiselle  Therese  de  Coppens,  in  her 
little  letter,  announces  that  she  has  forwarded  to  me  an  alb 
and  sundry  other  objects  for  the  missions.  I  have  known 
the  excellent  good  demoiselle  for  many  years  past ;  there 
can  be  no  doubt  that  she  has  the  best  intentions  in  the  world. 
I  will  do  as  you  advise  about  writing  her  a  little  note  of 
thanks.     *     *     *      \t  ^\^q  same  time,  I  beg  that  you  will 


no  FAMILY    ATTACHMENTS. 

look  into  her  shipment,  or  have  somebody  else  do  so,  with 
my  permission  to  take  out  anything  that  you  may  judge 
unsuitable  or  not  worth  the  freight.  Once,  a  few  years 
2 go,  as  I  was  leaving  for  Havre,  Mademoiselle  sent  me  a  big 
package  for  America.  I  opened  it  up  in  Paris,  and  what  do 
you  think  there  was  in  it  ?  Nothing  but  old  rags,  frightful 
images  of  saints,  daubed  with  colors,  exactly  in  the  taste  of 
the  Blackfeet  and  Crows  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  and 
finally  some  German  holy  virgins  and  christs,  which  would 
really  scare  a  man  and  make  him  laugh  at  the  same  time. 
I  left  the  whole  thing  in  Paris.  In  regard  to  these  things, 
follow  your  own  discretion,  and  do  just  as  you  think  best." 

He  was  very  fond  of  good  stories,  and  while  he  naturally 
did  not  indulge  much  in  that  line  in  his  formal  writings  on 
missionary  matters,  a  good  many  crept  into  his  personal 
correspondence  and  some  of  them  are  given  in  the  present 
edition  of  his  writings.^ 

The  cheerfulness  and  optimism  of  his  temperament  were 
united  with  the  deepest  sentiments  of  tenderness  and  affec- 
tion. He  was  moved  to  tears  as  easily  as  a  woman,  and 
all  his  life  long  it  was  his  natural  manner  to  "  rejoice  with 
those  that  do  rejoice  and  weep  with  those  that  weep." 

He  possessed  in  an  eminent  degree  those  qualities  that 
go  to  the  making  of  a  home,  and  one  cannot  but  feel  that 
the  world,  in  gaining  a  good  priest,  lost  a  better  husband 
and  father.  He  was  passionately  fond  of  his  family  in 
Belgium  and  his  letters  to  his  brothers,  nephews  and  nieces 
breathe  the  tenderest  affection.  He  was  always  impatient 
for  letters  from  them.  "  Exilement,  even  when  it  is  volun- 
tary," he  once  wrote,  "  or  when,  rather,  it  is  imposed  by 
conscience  or  religion,  cannot  destroy  in  a  man's  heart  the 
sweet  sentiments  there  implanted  by  kinship  or  love  of  coun- 
try. Hence  the  vacancy  that  I  feel  within  me,  at  not  having 
received  for  so  long  a  time  an)?-  of  your  letters,  always  so 
good  and  interesting,  and  so  consoling  to  your  American 
exile." 

2   See  page  1416  of  the  Letters. 


PORTRAIT    BY    HIMSELF.  Ill 

His  priestly  duties  did  not  estrange  him  from  the  natural 
feelings  that  home  and  kindred  inspire  and  he  was  ever 
alive  to  the  pleasures  and  sorrows  of  his  relatives  across 
the  sea.  He  thus  wrote  to  one  of  his  nieces  upon  the  occa- 
sion of  her  marriage :  "  Since  I  now  love  my  nephew,  Mr. 
De  Bare,  as  much  as  I  love  my  niece  Sylvie,  you  must  be 
careful  to  give  him  a  faithful  description  of  your  uncle,  so 
that  if  I  should  happen  in  on  him  in  your  absence,  he  could 
recognize  me  without  ever  having  seen  me.  Uncle  Pierre, 
tell  him,  is  a  man  of  medium  size,  with  gray  hair,  tending 
to  white.  The  center  of  his  wide  face  is  occupied  by  a  nose 
with  which  a  Greek  or  a  Roman  would  not  find  much  fault. 
Its  nearest  neighbor  is  a  mouth  of  ordinary  size,  which 
hardly  ever  opens  save  to  laugh  or  to  make  others  laugh; 
it  makes  people  love  the  good  Lord  in  that  manner.  The 
rest  resembles  a  man  of  fifty  years,  who  weighs  210  pounds. 
If  ever  you  build  a  new  house,  give  the  door  of  my  chamber 
six  inches  extra  width,  because  I  don't  like  to  be  bothered  in 
getting  into  a  room." 

His  friends  at  home  likewise  held  him  in  the  highest  ven- 
eration and  affection  and  a  close  and  uninterrupted  corre- 
spondence passed  between  them.  On  one  of  his  visits  to 
Europe,  he  officiated  at  the  marriage  of  his  nephew  Paul 
with  whom  he  had  corresponded  since  he  was  a  little  boy. 
The  church  where  the  ceremony  was  performed  was 
thronged  with  people  eager  to  see  the  great  missionary, 
and  the  scene  is  described  as  deeply  touching  and  impressive. 

These  little  glimpses  of  his  inner  life  show  how  much  of 
human  nature  he  possessed,  and  how  little  it  had  been 
warped  or  withered  by  a  calling  which  we  are  inclined  to 
think  sets  men  apart  from  the  common  run  of  humanity. 

Father  De  Smet  would  have  made  a  successful  man  of 
affairs  and  an  ideal  citizen  in  public  life.  The  Society  kept 
him  constantly  engaged  in  managing  the  business  affairs  of 
the  Province ;  and  his  extensive  travels  at  home  and  abroad 
gave  him  an  acquaintance  with  men  in  all  the  walks  of  life 
which  very  few  members  of  his  order  possessed.     He  was 


112  COURAGE  AND  PRUDENCE. 

richly  endowed  by  nature  with  what  he  calls  "  that  most 
precious  of  social  virtues,  common  sense."  Although 
throughout  his  life  he  was  thrown  in  contact  with  the  world 
above  the  lot  of  the  average  priest,  and  in  places  where 
indiscretion  would  have  cost  him  dear,  he  always  bore  him- 
self in  a  way  that  won  the  respect  and  confidence  of  those 
who  met  him.  He  held  rigidly  aloof  from  politics  even 
when  his  soul  was  aroused  by  the  persecutions  carried  on 
against  his  religion.  Referring,  late  in  life,  to  his  past 
career,  he  once  wrote :  "In  my  long  missionary  career  of 
over  thirty  years  I  have  made  it  a  rule  not  to  lend  myself  or 
interfere  in  any  difference  that  may  occur  between  parties. 
I  try  my  best  to  attend  solely  to  my  spiritual  ministry  for 
the  welfare  of  my  white  brethren  and  that  of  the  well-dis- 
posed Indians." 

A  feature  of  Father  De  Smet's  career  which  has  strongly 
appealed  to  the  author  since  he  first  became  acquainted  with 
the  life-work  of  the  great  missionary  is  the  absence  of  that 
longing  for  martyrdom  which  was  so  characteristic  of  the 
old  Canadian  missionaries.  Apart  from  one's  admiration 
of  the  wonderful  fortitude  that  enabled  Brebeuf  and  others 
to  endure  calmly  the  tortures  of  the  savages,  we  cannot  but 
feel  that  it  was  lost  upon  the  barbarous  nature  of  the  savage 
and  did  not  promote  the  cause  of  religion  in  any  adequate 
degree.  There  is  an  involuntary  feeling  that  these  men 
would  have  better  served  their  Master  if  they  had  made 
themselves  soldiers  of  the  cross,  literally,  and  had  met  their 
savage  assailants  with  sword  and  fire  instead  of  meekly  re- 
signing themselves  to  a  terrible  and  ineffectual  fate.  This, 
we  are  aware,  is  not  the  view  of  the  Church,  and  it  may  be 
that,  in  the  inscrutable  wisdom  of  Providence,  sacrifices 
like  these  bring  about  results  which  we  are  unable  to  trace. 

Father  De  Smet  was  a  different  kind  of  man.  He  did 
not  lack  courage  —  he  faced  death  too  many  times  for 
that;  but  he  believed  that  the  life  given  him  was  given  for 
a  purpose,  and  that  it  should  not  be  lightly  thrown  away. 
He  always  took  the  most  careful  precautions  against  disas- 


THE    GREAT    WONDERS    OF    THE    LORD.  II3 

ter.  He  could  even  practice  the  legitimate  deceptions  of  war 
when  necessary  to  frustrate  the  plans  of  an  enemy.  While 
he  never  himself  carried  arms  —  or  at  least  we  have  no 
record  that  he  did  —  he  aided  his  traveling  companions  in 
their  means  of  defense,  and  would  undoubtedly  have  helped 
them  in  battle  if  the  necessity  had  arisen. 

But  when  it  came  to  situations  where  the  sacrifice  of  his 
life  might  promote  the  welfare  of  others,  he  did  not  hesitate. 
Three  times,  at  least,  he  went  forth  to  meet  hostile  bands 
when  it  was  believed  that  a  white  man  could  not  approach 
them  without  certain  death.  And  he  informs  us  that  he 
did  this  in  perfect  calmness  and  with  a  sense  of  security 
which  could  come  only  from  his  faith  in  the  protecting  care 
of  Providence.  It  is  a  singular  fact  that  in  all  his  experi- 
ence in  the  Indian  country,  during  the  period  of  general 
wars,  he  saw  very  little,  if  any,  actual  bloodshed.  In  1846 
he  said,  "  I  have  never  witnessed  the  shedding  of  one  drop 
of  human  blood"  —  and  the  same  good  fortune  accom- 
panied him  during  the  remainder  of  his  life. 

It  is  entirely  in  harmony  with  a  nature  like  that  of  Father 
De  Smet,  that  he  should  be  an  enthusiastic  lover  of  the  beau- 
ties of  Nature.  Whether  on  sea  or  land,  among  the  moun- 
tains or  on  the  prairie,  he  saw  beauty  and  goodness  in  all 
that  God  had  made.  His  writings  are  full  of  his  observa- 
tions upon  these  subjects.  He  tells  us,  for  instance,  how  on 
one  occasion,  when  nearing  New  York  from  Europe,  a  long 
spell  of  rough  weather  was  followed  by  a  perfect  day  in 
Avhich  everything  combined  to  make  Nature  appear  at  her 
best.  There  was  a  glorious  sunset  which  drew  from  Father 
De  Smet  the  exquisite  reflection  that  the  setting  of  the  sun 
at  sea  is  "  among  the  great  wonders  of  the  Lord."  He  sat 
up  that  night  until  two  in  the  morning,  drinking  in  this 
natural  elixir  of  life,  and  was  up  again  in  time  to  see  the 
rising  of  a  May  sun.  This  is  the  way  it  appeared  to  him : 
"  The  sky  was  clear,  the  sea  was  tranquil,  hardly  a  ripple 
stirred  the  surface  of  its  waters,  and  from  its  bosom  rose  the 


114  HIS    PERSONAL   ATTRACTIONS. 

majestic  sun  in  all  its  lustre  and  glory,  spreading  and  reflect- 
ing its  dazzling  beams,  high  and  deep,  above  and  below  the 
horizon.  Eastwardly  the  ocean  appeared  as  in  a  blaze  and 
resembled  a  boundless  mass  of  molten  gold.  Truly,  grand 
and  sublime  is  the  sight  of  the  rising  sun  at  sea." 

He  once  wrote  to  a  young  student  friend  of  poetic  talent 
who  was  about  to  pass  by  Niagara  Falls  :  "  Take  a  peep  at 
the  great  Niagara  Falls ;  look  well  at  them.  No  matter  how 
much  your  mind  may  have  been  dried  up  by  the  holy  fathers, 
by  theology  and  philosophy,  your  poetic  turn  will  there  re- 
vive and  feel  a  new  inspiration." 

Reference  has  already  been  made  to  the  personal  appear- 
ance of  Father  De  Smet ;  but  it  is  well  to  add  here  that  there 
was  that  about  his  bearing  and  physiognomy,  growing  out 
of  his  religious  life,  which  added  vastly  to  the  favorable  im- 
pression produced  by  his  well-developed  physique.  Father 
De  Smet  was  particularly  noted  for  the  dignity  and  suavity 
of  his  manner,  and  the  Christian  character  of  his  counte- 
nance. "  His  face  was  a  benediction,"  once  said  a  distin- 
guished Montana  pioneer  who  knew  him  well  ;^  and  another 
pioneer,'*  who  had  traveled  with  him  part  way  across  the 
continent,  characterized  him  as  "  genial,  of  fine  presence, 
and  one  of  the  saintliest  men  I  have  ever  known,  and  I  can- 
not wonder  that  the  Indians  were  made  to  believe  him 
divinely  protected.  He  was  a  man  of  great  kindness  and 
great  affability  under  all  circumstances;  nothing  seemed  to 
disturb  his  temper." 

Having  now  noted  the  general  traits  of  Father  De  Smet's 
character  as  a  man  and  priest,  we  shall  notice  some  of  the 
more  prominent  phases  of  his  life-work. 

*  Colonel  W.  F.  Sanders  of  Helena,  Mont. 

•*John  Bidwell  in  The  Century  for  November,  1890 


CHAPTER  XI. 

THE   INDIAN   AND  THE    MISSIONARY. 

A  friend  of  the  Indians  —  Their  trust  in  him  —  Interesting  inter- 
course with  the  tribes  —  The  Indian  Question  —  Missionary  work  — 
Comparison  of  Protestant  and  Catholic  methods  —  Great  obstacles  to 
success  —  The  destruction  of  the  field  by  white  settlement. 

"^^HERE  has  never  lived  a  more  sincere,  ardent  and  prac- 
^^  tical  friend  of  the  Indians  than  Father  De  Smet.  He 
held  them  in  the  deepest  affection.  He  sympathized  with 
them  in  the  wrongs  they  suffered.  At  the  same  time  he  saw 
their  limitations ;  he  hated  their  revolting  uncleanliness,  ab- 
horred their  cruelties,  and  hesitated  not  to  point  out  to  them 
the  evils  of  their  manner  of  life.  With  all  of  Catlin's  en- 
thusiasm for  the  native  character,  he  had  none  of  those 
impracticable  and  chimerical  notions  which  made  that  writer 
wholly  unreliable  as  an  authority,  and  his  plans  impossible  of 
realization. 

As  Father  De  Smet  was  a  friend  of  the  Indians  to  an  ex- 
tent never  equaled  by  any  other  white  man,  so  there  was 
never  another  white  man  for  whom  they  felt  the  deep  per- 
sonal affection  and  absolute  trust  that  they  did  for  him. 
Nothing  is  more  remarkable  in  his  eventful  life  than  this 
fact.  He  had  but  to  show  himself  to  win  their  hearts. 
There  was  that  in  his  benevolent  manner  that  commanded 
their  trust  in  an  instant.  They  delighted  to  honor  him.  He 
was  borne  in  triumph  or  escorted  with  imposing  ceremony ; 
given  their  best  lodge ;  feasted  until  endurance  could  receive 
no  more.  And  as  years  rolled  on  and  they  found  him  al- 
ways true,  their  first  impressions  grew  into  a  \\t)rshipful 
love.  He  was  the  only  white  man.  they  were  wont  to  say, 
who  never  talked  to  them  with  a  forked  tongue. 

His  interviews  with  them  were  full  of  exquisite  incidents, 

[115] 


Il6  HIS    WAY    WITH    THE    INDIANS. 

and  he  knew  perfectly  how  to  impress  their  minds  with  the 
wonders  of  Hfe  and  pave  the  way  to  the  reception  of  rehgious 
truth.  "  In  their  hunting  expeditions,"  he  once  wrote,  "  I 
used  to  pass  the  beautiful  summer  and  autumnal  evenings 
seated  on  the  grass  and  flowery  meadows  of  their  lovely 
mountain  valleys  surrounded  by  my  dear  neophytes.  They 
took  the  liveliest  interest  in  my  narratives  of  the  holy  writ 
—  on  the  creation,  the  deluge,  the  ark  of  Noah,  the  Macca- 
bees, Samson,  Joseph  and  his  brethren,  etc.  I  occasionally 
entertained  them  on  American  and  European  events  and 
wars,  on  Washington  and  his  great  country,  on  the  battles 
of  Napoleon  th,e  First,  his  struggles  and  his  final  overthrow 
at  Waterloo." 

His  intercourse  with  that  wild  and  roving  tribe  of  free- 
booters, the  Crows,  was  always  interesting.  We  have  noted 
the  astonished  remark  of  a  Crow  chief  when  he  found  what 
had  to  be  done  to  inherit  the  white  man's  heaven.  On  a 
subsequent  occasion  the  good  Father  explained  to  them  the 
greatness  of  the  white  nation.  "  They  asked  me  innumer- 
able questions ;  among  others  they  wished  to  know  the  num- 
ber of  the  whites.  '  Count,'  I  replied,  '  the  blades  of  grass 
upon  your  immense  plains,  and  you  will  know  pretty  nearly 
the  number  of  whites.'  They  all  smiled,  saying  that  the 
thing  was  impossible,  but  they  understood  my  meaning. 
And  when  I  explained  to  them  the  vast  extent  of  the  villages 
inhabited  by  white  men  ( New  York,  Philadelphia,  London, 
Paris)  ;  the  grand  lodges  (houses)  built  as  near  each  other 
as  the  fingers  of  my  hand,  and  four  or  five  piled  up,  one 
above  the  other  (meaning  the  different  stories  of  our  dwell- 
ings) ;  when  I  told  them  that  some  of  these  lodges  (speak- 
ing of  churches  and  towers)  were  as  high  as  mountains  and 
large  enough  to  contain  all  the  Crows  together ;  that  in  the 
grand  lodge  of  the  national  council  (the  Capitol  at  Wash- 
ington) all  the  great  chiefs  of  the  whole  world  could  smoke 
the  calumet  at  their  ease ;  that  the  roads  in  these  great  vil- 
lages were  always  filled  with  passengers,  who  came  and 
went  more  thickly  than  the  vast  herds  of  bufifalo  that  some- 


HIS    DELIGHT    IN    THE    SAVAGE.  II7 

times  cover  their  beautiful  plains;  when  I  explained  to  them 
the  extraordinary  celerity  of  those  moving  lodges  (the  cars 
on  the  railroad)  that  leave  far  behind  them  the  swiftest 
horse,  and  are  drawn  along  by  frightful  machines  whose  re- 
peated groanings  re-echo  far  and  wide,  as  they  belch  forth 
immense  volumes  of  fire  and  smoke;  and  next  those  fire 
canoes  (steamboats)  which  transport  whole  villages,  with 
provisions,  arms  and  baggage,  in  a  few  days,  from  one 
country  to  another,  crossing  large  lakes  (the  seas),  ascend- 
ing and  descending  the  great  rivers  and  streams ;  when  I 
told  them  that  I  had  seen  white  men  mounting  up  into  the 
air  (in  balloons)  and  flying  with  as  much  agility  as  the 
warrior  eagle  of  their  mountains  —  then  their  astonishment 
was  at  its  height;  and  all  placing  their  hands  upon  their 
mouths,  sent  forth  at  the  same  time  one  general  cry  of  won- 
der. '  The  Master  of  Life  is  great,'  said  the  chief,  *  and 
the  white  men  are  his  favorites.'  " 

Then  he  spoke  to  them  of  religion.  They  had  dimly 
heard  of  the  w^hite  man's  prayer  and  wanted  to  hear  how 
he  addressed  the  Great  Spirit.  Father  De  Smet  planted 
three  United  States  flags  near  by;  called  the  multitude 
around  him,  knelt  beneath  the  ensign  of  his  country  and 
intoned  the  solemn  canticles  and  repeated  the  prayers  of  the 
Church,  and  had  them  interpreted.  These  things  made  a 
deep  impression,  and  the  Crows,  like  every  other  tribe  whom 
he  visited,  always  remembered  them. 

Apart  from  the  bearing  of  these  incidents  upon  his  re- 
ligious work,  Father  De  Smet  thoroughly  enjoyed  this  con- 
tact with  the  unsophisticated  children  of  the  wilderness.  It 
was  always  fresh  and  novel,  no  matter  how  often  repeated ; 
and  every  new  repetition  evolved  some  new  feature.  It 
was  his  compensation  for  the  hardships  of  savage  life,  so 
intolerable  to  a  cultured  taste.  He  refers  again  and  again 
to  the  feasts  to  which  he  was  subjected  —  the  disgusting 
cookery  and  repulsive  food,  and  he  marveled  that  human 
beings  could  live  in  that  way.  "  The  stomach  of  the  Indian 
has  always  been  a  riddle  to  me,"  he  said ;  and  it  required  all 


Il8  THE    GREAT    INDIAN    QUESTION. 

his  ingenuity  to  devise  ways  and  means  of  escaping  this  form 
of  lavish  hospitahty  without  doing  offense  to  his  hosts. 

The  great  Indian  Question  absorbed  his  thoughts  per- 
haps more  than  any  other.  He  understood  it  perfectly,  and 
constantly  deplores  in  his  letters  the  terrible  position  in  which 
the  Indian  was  placed  by  the  encroachment  of  the  whites. 
It  was  the  same  hard  question  which  had  been  wrestled  with 
in  vain  since  the  settlement  of  the  country  began  —  what  is 
to  become  of  the  Indian?  It  mattered  comparatively  little 
so  long  as  they  were  east  of  the  Mississippi,  for  they  could 
be  moved  to  the  vast  areas  of  the  West.  But  now  they  were 
all  there  and  the  white  man  kept  coming.  Back  and  still 
farther  went  the  buffalo  and  the  Indian  with  him.  It  could 
not  last  forever,  and  Father  De  Smet  saw  with  unerring 
vision  the  fate  that  must  soon  overtake  them.  That  it  came 
sooner  than  he  expected  is  only  because  no  one  foresaw  how 
rapidly  settlement  would  occupy  the  West.  The  discovery 
of  gold  was  the  knell  of  the  red  man.  Like  a  mighty  flood, 
emigration  swept  over  the  plains  and  filled  the  mountains. 
Father  De  Smet  had  known  of  gold  in  the  mountains  since 
1842,  and  had  kept  his  discovery  a  secret  because  he  knew 
that  its  revelation  meant  the  practical  extinction  of  Indian 
life  in  the  West.  It  was  yet  twenty  years  before  it  should  be- 
come generally  known ;  but  when  it  came  it  swept  all  before 
it.  Father  De  Smet  crossed  the  mountains  from  the  Colum- 
bia to  Fort  Benton  in  1859  just  before  the  discovery,  and  he 
went  back  by  the  same  route  in  1863  in  the  midst  of  the 
process  of  discovery.  The  change  was  astonishing  and 
ominous.  He  wrote  on  this  occasion :  "  One  cannot  help 
being  anxious  for  the  fate  of  the  Indians  on  account  of  the 
approach  of  the  whites.  The  treasures  concealed  in  the 
heart  of  the  mountains  will  attract  thousands  of  miners  from 
every  land ;  and  with  them  will  come  the  dregs  of  civiliza- 
tion, gamblers,  drunkards,  robbers  and  assassins." 

It  would  be  easy  to  state  from  Father  De  Smet's  writ- 
ings every  possible  phase  of  the  Indian  question ;  but  we 
will  give  only  a  few  references.      The  general  course  of 


CAUSE    OF    INDIAN    OUTBREAKS.  II9 

events  by  which  the  Indian  was  compelled  to  never-ceasing 
retreat  before  the  advance  of  the  white  man  is  thus 
described : 

"  Since  the  discovery  of  America  a  system  of  extermina- 
tion, of  moving  the  Indians,  thrusting  them  further  back, 
has  been  pursued  and  practiced  by  the  whites,  little  by  little 
at  first,  more  and  more  as  the  European  settlers  multiplied 
and  gained  strength.  At  this  day  this  same  policy  is  march- 
ing with  giant  strides ;  the  drama  of  spoliation  has  reached 
its  last  act,  both  east  and  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
The  curtain  will  soon  fall  upon  the  poor  and  unhappy  rem- 
nants of  the  Indian  tribes,  and  they  will  henceforth  exist 
only  in  history." 

And  how  this  irresistible  process  drove  them  to  despera- 
tion and  war  with  all  its  savage  horrors  is  thus  set  forth : 

"  The  unhappy  war  which  is  now  raging  so  fiercely  over 
all  the  extent  of  the  Great  Desert  east  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains has,  like  so  many  other  Indian  wars,  been  provoked  by 
injustices  and  misdeeds  on  the  part  of  the  whites  and  even 
the  agents  of  the  Government.  For  years  and  years  they 
have  deceived  the  Indians  with  impunity  in  the  sale  of  their 
lands,  and  by  the  embezzlement,  or  rather  open  theft,  of 
immense  sums  paid  by  the  Government  therefor.  The  In- 
dians, driven  to  extremity,  after  being  swindled  and  robbed 
through  a  long  series  of  years,  and  unable  to  obtain  any 
justice  against  their  oppressors,  utter  at  last  their  terrible 
war  cry  against  the  whole  race  of  the  enemy." 

Here  follows  a  statement,  replete  with  wisdom,  of  the 
situation  as  it  appeared  to  thoughtful  observers  when  our 
Sioux  wars  were  at  their  height.  Its  exoneration  of  the 
Government  from  complicity  in  the  wTongs  practiced  upon 
the  Indians  is  an  example  of  broad-mindedness  which  one 
does  not  often  meet  with  among  the  so-called  "  friends  "  of 
the  redmen. 

"  In  order  to  form  a  just  idea  of  their  critical  position, 
and  of  the  melancholy  consequences  which  will  be  the  result 
unless  restrained  by  special  protection  of  divine  Providence, 


I20  THE    WRECK    OF    THE   TRIBES. 

imagine  two  societies  coming  in  contact,  one  representing 
the  manners  and  customs  of  barbarians,  the  other  all  the 
splendor  of  modern  civilization.  How  many  years  will 
elapse  before  there  will  be  a  perfect  fusion  between  the  two 
societies,  before  unison  will  exist,  before  they  can  dwell 
together  in  complete  harmony?  Neither  the  first,  nor  the 
second,  nor  the  third  generation,  notwithstanding  untiring 
efforts,  will  achieve  that  happy  result,  such  as  it  is  under- 
stood in  our  days.  Hence,  previous  to  a  perfect  fusion  be- 
tween the  societies,  the  civilized  society  will  have  the  ad- 
vantage over  the  barbarous;  it  will  have  it  entirely  at  its 
mercy,  to  make  it  subservient  to  its  will  and  pleasure.  In  a 
word,  the  barbarian  can  no  better  sustain  himself  in  the 
presence  of  civilization,  than  the  simplicity  of  childhood  can 
contest  against  the  malicious  prudence  of  mature  age. 

"  This,  in  my  opinion,  is  what  will  be  realized  in  the  Great 
Desert,  when  the  copper-colored  race  shall  come  into  contact 
with  the  white.  The  judgment  of  the  savage  is  not  suffi- 
ciently ripe  to  be  able  to  compete  with  the  wisdom  of  man 
born  in  the  bosom  of  civilization.  It  is  this  conviction 
which  fills  us  with  anxiety  for  the  future  of  our  dear  neo- 
phytes in  the  different  missions.  We  confide  solely  in 
divine  goodness,  which,  we  hope,  will  not  fail  to  come  to 
the  help  of  His  children. 

"It  is  not  difficult  to  descry  from  afar  the  grand  event 
which  must  engulf  in  one  common  wreck  all  the  Indian 
tribes.  The  storm  which  has  just  burst  forth  over  their 
heads  was  long  preparing ;  it  could  not  escape  the  observing 
eye.  We  saw  the  American  Republic  soaring,  with  the  ra- 
pidity of  the  eagle's  flight,  towards  the  plenitude  of  her 
power.  Every  year  she  adds  new  countries  to  her  limits. 
She  ambitions  nothing  less  than  extending  her  dominion 
from  the  Atlantic  to  the  Pacific,  so  as  to  embrace  the  com- 
merce of  the  whole  world,  and  dispute  with  other  mighty 
nations  the  glory  of  pre-eminence.  Her  object  is  attained. 
All  bend  to  her  sceptre ;  all  Indian  nationality  is  at  her  feet. 

"  Far  be  it  from  us,  however,  to  accuse  the  noble  Republic 


ABOUT    GOVERNMENTS    PROMISES.  121 

of  injustice  and  inhumanity  in  her  late  treaties.  It  seems 
to  us,  on  the  contrary,  that  no  nation  has  ever  furnished 
more  means  of  civihzation.  If  any  one  must  be  blamed  on 
this  point,  it  is  rather  private  persons,  new  colonists,  who  act 
and  place  themselves  in  direct  opposition  with  the  good  in- 
tentions of  the  Government  in  behalf  of  the  savages." 

But  while  Jie  recognized  that  the  change  must  come,  he  de- 
plored the  fact  that  it  must  be  so  harsh  and  accompanied 
with  so  much  of  injustice  and  wrong.  He  did  all  he  could 
to  soften  the  cruelty  of  it  and  he  always  advised  the  Indians 
to  submit  to  the  Government  and  not  incur  its  displeasure. 
His  greatest  grief  was  that,  in  giving  this  advice,  which  was 
followed  on  more  than  one  occasion,  he  was  compelled  to 
see  the  promises  made  them  unfulfilled  and  his  advice  lead 
ever  to  new  suffering.  The  Government,  always  a  friend 
to  the  Indian,  was  weak  in  the  execution  of  its  laws  and 
treaties  with  them.  Exactly  there  was  the  fault  —  that  it 
did  not  enforce  the  fulfillment  of  its  promises.  There  is  no 
more  impressive  scene  in  our  Indian  history  than  Father 
De  Smet's  visit  to  Sitting  Bull's  band  in  1868.  To  the  In- 
dians he  was  the  representative  of  truth,  the  Great  Father 
in  Washington  that  of  falsehood.  When  they  saw  the  ban- 
ner of  Father  De  Smet  they  first  thought  it  the  flag  of  the 
United  States  and  would  have  massacred  every  white  man 
in  the  party ;  but  when  they  saw  it  to  be  the  simple  emblem 
of  Christ,  borne  by  the  valiant  missionary,  their  hatred 
changed  to  joy  and  their  hostile  attitude  to  the  most  enthusi- 
astic friendliness.  It  was  the  faithlessness  of  the  Great 
Father  in  his  promises  to  them  that  embittered  their  minds 
and  called  forth  all  that  Avas  savage  in  their  nature.^ 

The  Indians  revered  and  loved  Father  De  Smet  to  the 
last.  They  were  always  looking  for  him  to  return  among 
them.      From  every  tribe  in  the  northwest  he  received  peti- 

^  "  Commissioners  and  agents  of  the  Government  come  to  us  every 
year.  They  are  affable  and  prodigal  of  words  and  promises  on  behalf 
of  our  Great  Father.  What  is  the  reason  that  so  many  fine  words  and 
pompous  promises  always  come  to  nothing,  nothing,  nothing." 


122  PLANS    AND    FULFILLMENT. 

tions  to  have  a  black-robe  sent  them,  and  whenever  he  passed 
through  their  country  in  later  years  it  was  like  a  triumphal 
march.  They  came  to  see  him  and  pour  out  their  grievances 
and  to  have  their  children  baptized.  All  in  all  their  love  and 
veneration  for  this  man  present  one  of  the  most  touching 
spectacles  in  the  history  of  the  native  races  in  America. 

Father  De  Smet  planned  his  work  among  the  Indians  on 
a  far  greater  scale  than  he  was  able  ever  to  realize.  This 
was  due  in  the  first  place  to  lack  of  resources.  The  Jesuits 
never  had  either  the  workers  or  the  funds  that  were  neces- 
sary. In  the  second  place  the  field  itself  was  entirely  swept 
away.  In  1846  Father  De  Smet  no  doubt  anticipated  that 
the  seed  he  had  sown  in  Oregon  would  grow  into  a  mighty 
harvest.  But  what  man  proposes  is  rarely  realized.  In 
1863,  as  he  passed  over  the  country  again,  he  found  it  occu- 
pied by  a  new  race,  the  hunting  grounds  of  his  neophytes 
filled  with  settlers;  the  Indians  struggling  in  vain  for  their 
lands  and  being  rapidly  huddled  together  on  small  reserva- 
tions. The  whole  opportunity  for  a  great  work  had  gone  in 
the  twinkling  of  an  eye.  The  work  of  the  missionary  among 
the  Indians  was  confined  to  a  few  small  localities  whose  in- 
fluence upon  the  general  community  was  wholly  inappreci- 
able. 

This  is  not  saying  that  their  work  so  far  as  it  went  was 
not  a  success.  There  is  no  finer  example  of  an  Indian  mis- 
sion than  St.  Ignatius  in  Montana;  but  a  few  individual 
successes  were  not  a  vast  field.  The  truth  is  the  Indian  was 
gone,  swallowed  up  in  the  flood  of  settlement,  and  no  longer 
a  factor  in  the  life  of  that  country. 

It  is  a  reasonable  conclusion  from  the  history  of  the 
Catholic  missions  in  Oregon,  that  if  the  Indians  had  re- 
mained in  a  state  of  primitive  wildness,  the  missionaries 
would  have  accomplished  their  conversion  to  the  Christian 
religion ;  and  that,  without  interfering  with  their  native  cus- 
toms to  any  great  extent,  they  would  have  lessened  the  wars 
among  the  tribes,  promoted  cleanliness  and  virtue  among 
them,  and  at  the  same  time  have  left  them  free  in  the  exer- 


TWO    SYSTEMS    COMPARED,  1 23 

cise  of  all  their  manly  sports,  the  chase,  the  nomadic  life,  and 
the  gathering  of  furs  by  which  their  conveniences  and  com- 
forts could  be  promoted  through  trade  with  the  white  man. 

As  a  missionary  force  among  the  Indians  there  is  no  doubt 
of  the  superiority  of  the  Catholic  method.  It  appealed  to 
the  Indians,  they  liked  it,  and  they  had  greater  confidence  in 
the  black-robes  than  in  Protestant  ministers.  The  reasons 
for  this  are  numerous  and  convincing,  but  chiefly  two : 
( I )  The  sublime  and  exalted  forms  of  Catholic  worship 
appealed  to  the  imagination  of  the  Indian  and  he  was  at- 
tracted by  them  where  abstract  preaching  made  no  im- 
pression. 

(2)  The  black-robe  came  to  the  Indian  unfettered  by 
outward  ties.  His  life  was  devoted  solely  to  his  calling. 
Poverty  was  his  portion  and  no  suspicion  could  exist  that 
his  devotion  to  his  work  was  tainted  with  motives  of  self- 
aggrandizement.  He  was  without  wife  or  children  and 
there  was  nothing  to  come  between  him  and  his  work.  His 
very  personality  was  separate  and  distinct  from  that  of  ordi- 
nary men  and  he  came  to  be  universally  known  among  the 
Indians  as  the  "  robe  noire  "  or  "  black  gown." 

The  Protestant  clergyman  came  under  different  auspices. 
He  had  no  distinguishing  dress  that  marked  him  off  in  his 
calling.  His  personal  appearance  was  like  that  of  other 
white  men  who  cheated  and  deceived  them.  The  minister 
brought  his  wife  and  children  who  must  needs  come  first  in 
his  heart.  Then  he  taught  more  by  abstract  methods  and 
devoted  little  time  to  those  forms  and  ceremonies  which  ap- 
pealed with  peculiar  power  to  the  childlike  mind  of  the 
Indian. 

From  these  and  other  causes,  the  choice  of  the  Indian, 
whenever  he  had  means  of  acquaintance  with  both  parties, 
was  always  for  the  black-gown,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that 
the  Catholics  were  the  most  successful  missionaries  among 
the  Indian  tribes.^     It  was  a  deep  grief  to  Father  De  Smet 

*  "  You  are  aware  that  I  have  filled  the  office  of  agent  of  the  United 
States  Government  among  the  Indians  for  fifteen  years.     During  all 


124  GOVERNMENT    AND    DENOMINATIONS. 

in  the  closing  years  of  his  hfe,  when  called  to  Washington 
for  consultation  about  the  apportionment  of  the  missions 
among  different  religious  bodies,  that  the  Indians  were  not 
consulted  at  all,  but  the  missions  were  parceled  out  on  a 
wholly  different  basis.  It  was  then  that  he  saw  his  great 
work,  cut  down  as  it  already  was  by  the  influx  of  settlers, 
practically  swept  away.^ 

Father  De  Smet  made  a  profound  study  of  the  Indian 
character  as  it  related  to  his  missionary  work  among  them. 
He  never  sought  to  minimize  or  conceal  the  natural  difficul- 
ties in  the  way.  In  a  long  letter  written  late  in  life  he  re- 
views the  whole  question  in  an  exhaustive  manner.*  From 
this  most  valuable  essay  one  readily  discovers  that  he  did  not 
then  view  the  subject  with  the  same  enthusiasm  as  thirty 
years  before.  In  his  early  work,  fortune  threw  him  among 
a  tribe  which  above  all  others  was  susceptible  to  religious 
teaching.  They  received  him  with  a  sincere  desire  to  learn 
his  religion,  and  everything  then  looked  as  if  the  field  had 
only  to  be  occupied  to  become  permanently  fruitful.      His 

this  time  I  have  noticed  with  the  greatest  interest  that  the  efforts  made 
by  good  Christians  to  establish  missions  and  schools,  to  instruct  the 
Indians  in  spiritual  and  temporal  matters,  have  contributed  the  most  to 
civilizing  and  pacifying  them.  Furthermore,  I  take  pleasure  in  testify- 
ing that  the  Catholic  Church,  to  which  you  belong,  has  everywhere 
obtained  the  most  pre-eminent  success.  The  Catholic  missionaries  have 
always  succeeded  in  gaining  the  Indian's  hearts,  in  controlling  their 
brutal  outbreaks  and  ameliorating  their  condition  in  every  respect." 
Letter  from  Alfred  Vaughan,  Indian  agent,  to  Father  De  Smet. 

*  "  I  have  been  called  to  Washington  by  the  Secretary  of  the  In- 
terior, where  a  great  council  has  been  held  on  Indian  affairs  in  general. 
I  then  learned  that  forty-three  Indian  stations  were  to  be  divided 
among  different  denominations  in  the  various  sections  of  the  country 
inhabited  by  the  Indians,  of  which  only  four  are  assigned  to  the 
Catholics,  viz :  One  in  Dakota  (the  mission  we  intend  to  establish  in 
the  spring  among  the  Sioux),  one  in  New  Mexico,  another  in  Montana 
(Flathead)  and  a  fourth  in  Idaho.  In  the  whole  of  this  affair  the 
Indians  have  not  been  consulted  as  to  the  religion  they  desired  to  be- 
long to."    Father  De  Smet,  1870. 

4  See  page  1062  of  the  Letters. 


THE    INDIANS      HINDRANCES.  1 25 

great  confidence  at  that  time  is  shown  in  the  following  ex- 
tract from  his  letters :  "  How  consoling  it  is  to  pour  the 
regenerating  waters  of  baptism  on  the  furrowed  and  scarred 
brows  of  these  desert  warriors, —  to  behold  these  children  of 
the  plains  and  forests  emerging  from  that  profound  igno- 
rance and  superstition  in  which  they  have  been  for  so  many- 
ages  enveloped ;  to  see  them  embrace  the  faith  and  all  its 
sacred  practices  with  an  eagerness,  an  attention,  a  zeal, 
worthy  the  pristine  Christians." 

But  all  the  Indians  were  not  like  the  Flatheads,  and  the 
problem  grew  in  complexity  as  the  good  missionary's  expe- 
rience increased.  He  found  the  Indians  a  fickle  people.  It 
was  hard  for  them  to  stick  to  a  thing,  particularly  when  it 
ran  counter  to  their  immemorial  customs.  Their  religious 
beliefs  and  social  ethics  were  very  different  from  those  of 
Christian  peoples.  It  was  not  a  lack  of  intellectual  capacity 
nor  of  a  susceptibility  to  religious  teachings  that  stood  in 
the  wiay ;  but  the  inertia  of  long-established  customs.  It  was 
therefore  Father  De  Smet's  conclusion  that  the  full  "  con- 
version of  these  poor  heathens  is  the  work  of  the  Lord,  for  it 
implies  the  entire  regeneration  of  the  adult  Indian  which 
would  be  next  to  a  miracle  of  grace." 

There  were  other  obstacles  to  missionary  success  among 
the  Indians  which  are  thus  stated  by  Father  De  Smet : 
"  The  principal  ones  are  the  immoderate  use  of  strong  drink, 
polygamy,  superstitious  practices  and  prejudices,  a  lan- 
guage very  difficult  to  acquire,  and  their  inclination  to  a 
wandering  life.  This  inclination  is  so  strong  that  they  be- 
come melancholy  and  morose  if  they  stay  three  months  in 
the  same  place." 

We  have  several  times  referred  to  Father  De  Smet's  work 
in  providing  ways  and  means  for  carrying  on  the  missions. 
One  important  resource  which  was  available  for  many  years 
ought  to  be  referred  to.  The  American  Fur  Company 
gave  the  missionaries  free  transportation,  both  for  passen- 
gers and  freight,  on  the  company's  boats  plying  the  Mis- 
souri river.    It  was  a  most  valuable  contribution,  for  which 


126  SOME    BENEFACTORS. 

the  Jesuits  were  indebted  to  Charles  P.  Chouteau,  to  whom 
Father  De  Smet  refers  in  his  letters  as  a  benefactor  of  the 
missions.  After  the  American  Fur  Company  withdrew 
from  the  upper  river  the  same  privilege  was  occasionally- 
enjoyed  at  the  hands  of  Captain  Joseph  La  Barge,  Father 
De  Smet's  personal  friend. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

VIEWS  UPON   PUBLIC  AFFAIRS. 

Father  De  Smet  an  active  observer  of  public  events  —  The  growth 
of  the  United  States  —  Its  future  —  The  Oregon  Question  —  The  anti- 
Catholic  movement  —  The  radical  party  —  The  Test  Oath  in  Missouri. 

JjpATHER  De  SMET  was  an  interested  observer  of 
Jl  public  affairs  and  of  the  progress  of  his  adopted 
country.  His  letters  to  his  European  correspondents  are 
full  of  references  to  these  subjects.  In  regard  to  the 
growth  of  the  United  States  he  held  the  most  enthusiastic 
views,  and  often  expressed  his  wonder  and  admiration  at 
the  marvelous  result  developing  under  his  eyes.  A  few 
examples  of  the  way  in  which  he  represented  this  new 
nation  to  his  friends  in  the  Old  World  are  given  here :  "  I 
have  said  in  Europe,  and  I  repeat  it,  there"  is  no  country  in 
the  world  that  has  greater  resources  than  this;  none  that 
is  making  such  progress;  where  everything  is  developing 
in  so  wonderful  a  manner  as  to  draw  the  admiration  of 
the  civilized  world.  Providence  has  laid  out  this  country 
on  a  gigantic  scale;  its  destiny  is  to  march  onward,  and  no 
power  on  earth  can  stop  it.  It  is  a  mighty  country,  young 
and  vigorous,  and'  possesses  a  vast  space  which  time  will 
fill  with  millions  of  men." 

The  vast  extent  of  the  United  States  appealed  powerfully 
to  his  imagination:  "  I  shall  never  forget,"  he  once  wrote, 
"  the  rapture  of  a  traveler  who  left  the  green  parks  of 
New  Orleans  early  in  March  —  that  land  of  the  orange 
and  the  olive,  then  teeming  with  verdure,  freshness  and 
life,  and,  as  it  were,  mocking  him  with  the  midsummer  of 
his  own  northern  home.  He  journeyed  leisurely  toward 
the  region  of  ice  and  snow,  to  watch  the  budding  of  the 
young  flowers  and  to  catch  the  breezes  of  spring.     He 

[127] 


128  GRANDEUR    OF    THE    REPUBLIC. 

crossed  the  Lakes  Pontchartrain  and  Borgne  and  he  as- 
cended the  Big  Tombigbee  in  a  comfortable  steamboat. 
From  Tuscaloosa  he  shot  athwart  the-  wilds  of  Alabama, 
over  Indian  grounds  that  bloody  battles  have  rendered 
memorable.  He  traversed  Georgia  and  the  Carolinas, 
ranged  along  the  base  of  the  mountains  of  Virginia;  and 
for  three  months  more  he  enjoyed  one  perpetual,  unvary- 
ing, ever-coming,  spring  —  that  most  delicious  season  of 
the  year  —  till,  by  the  middle  of  June,  he  found  himself 
in  the  fogs  of  the  Passamaquoddy  where  tardy  summer 
was  even  then  hesitating  whether  it  was  time  to  come. 
And  yet  he  had  never  been  ofif  the  soil  of  his  own  country! 
The  flag  that  he  saw  on  the  summit  of  the  fortress  on  the 
lakes  near  New  Orleans  was  like  that  which  floated  from 
the  staff  on  the  hills  of  old  Fort  Sullivan,  in  the  eastern- 
most extremity  of  Maine;  and  the  morning  gun  that 
startled  his  slumbers  among  the  rocky  battlements  of  the 
Bay  of  Fundy,  was  not  answered  till  many  minutes  after 
on  the  shores  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  hours  after  on 
the  shores  of  the  Bay  of  San  Francisco  in  California." 

The  political  unity  of  the  United  States  appeared  to  him 
quite  as  wonderful  as  its  territorial  extent.  "  What  nation 
on  earth  presents  such  a  spectacle  as  the  United  States  of 
North  America  of  a  confederated  government  over  such 
a  vast  extent  of  territory  so  complicated,  with  so  many 
varied  interests,  and  yet  moving  so  harmoniously?  I  went 
within  the  walls  of  the  Capitol  at  Washington,  and  there, 
under  the  star-spangled  banners  that  wave  amid  its  domes. 
I  found  the  representatives  of  thirty  States  —  nations,  in 
many  senses,  they  may  be  called  —  that  have  within  them 
each  the  germ  of  a  greater  people  than  many  of  the  proud, 
now  tottering,  principalities  of  Europe;  all  speaking  or 
learning  the  same  language,  all  acting  with  one  heart  and 
all  burning  with  the  same  enthusiasm  —  the  love  and  glory 
of  this  great  Republic." 

The  "  manifest  destiny  "  of  this  nation,  as  arbiter  of  the 
political  fortunes  of  the  Western  Hemisphere,  did  not  es- 


DEVELOPMENT    FORESEEN. 


129 


cape  him.  "  I  have  seen  an  old  geographical  chart,"  he 
wrote  a  friend,  "  which  shows  the  eagle  soaring  in  the 
air  above  the  great  extent  of  North  America,  with  the 
numerous  islands  adjacent  to  both  coasts.  He  is  casting 
a  penetrating  and  greedy  look  over  the  vast  Canada  and 
all  its  dependencies,  and  his  open  beak  seems  ready  to 
snatch  them  up.  All  those  immense  regions  of  which  the 
United  States  occupy  the  center  rest  under  his  shadow. 
His  fine  widespread  tail  covers  all  of  Mexico  and  the  ad- 
joining regions  as  far  as  the  Gulf  of  Darien  and  the  Bay 
of  Panama;  and  the  tips  of  his  wings  are  dipped  in  the 
two  oceans  beyond  San  Domingio  and  the  Sandwich 
Islands.  And  that  is  the  grand  future,  perhaps  not  far 
off,  to  which  the  great  American  Republic  aspires,  and 
which  she  will  attain  if  she  is  wise." 

Many  pages  might  be  quoted  from  his  letters  to  show 
how  well  he  foresaw  the  future  development  of  the  West, 
but  the  following  brief  reference  must  suffice:  "Are  these 
vast  and  innumerable  fields  of  hay  forever  destined  to  be 
consumed  by  fire,  or  perish  in  the  autumnal  snows?  How 
long  shall  these  superb  forests  be  the  haunts  of  wild  beasts? 
And  these  inexhaustible  quarries,  these  abundant  mines  of 
coal,  lead,  sulphur,  iron,  copper  and  saltpetre  —  can  it  be 
that  they  are  doomed  tO'  remain  forever  undeveloped? 
Not  so.     The  day  will  come,  etc." 

It  was  quite  natural,  considering  Father  De  Smet's 
intimate  acquaintance  with  the  Columbia  Valley,  that  he 
should  take  an  active  interest  in  the  Oregon  Question. 
Like  his  co-worker  in  those  parts.  Doctor  Marcus  Whit- 
man,^ he  wanted  to  see  this  region  fall  into  the  hands  of 
the  United  States.     He  was  thrown  a  great  deal  with  the 

1  Father  De  Smet  and  Marcus  Whitman  are  the  most  distinguished 
names  in  the  history  of  Protestant  and  Catholic  missionary  work  in 
Oregon.  There  is  now  in  possession  of  George  H.  Himes  of  Portland, 
Oregon,  a  "  Douay  Bible,"  dated  "  Belfast,  1839,"  with  the  following 
inscription  in  Father  De  Smet's  hand :  "  Presented  to  Dr.  M.  Whit- 
man by  P.  J.  De  Smet." 
9 


130  THE    OREGON    QUESTION. 

British  traders,  and  they  were  not  altogether  discreet  in 
setting  forth  their  schemes  of  empire  on  the  Pacific  slope. 
It  aroused  Father  De  Smet's  indignation  that  such  things 
should  be  going  on  and  his  country  not  bestir  itself.  He 
did  not  like  the  comparison  of  our  lethargy  with  the  ac- 
tivity of  Great  Britain,  and  a  little  incident  serves  to  show 
us  that  he  did  not  conceal  his  opinion. 

In  1845  he  met  on  the  upper  Columbia  two  engineer 
officers  of  the  British  army  on  their  way  to  the  mouth  of 
that  stream.  After  a  brief  interchange  of  courtesies  and 
news  each  party  went  on  its  way;  but  Father  De  Smet  had 
observed  enough  to  set  him  thinking,  and  he  placed  his 
reflections  upon  record: 

"  I  received  with  gladness  the  recent  news  from  Europe, 
but  the  Oregon  Question  seemed  to  me  somewhat  alarm- 
ing; for  it  was  not  curiosity  or  pleasure  that  had  led  these 
two  officers  to  cross  the  ocean  and  so  many  desert  wastes 
and  that  was  hastening  their  course  toward  the  mouth  of 
the  Columbia.  They  were  under  orders  from  their  Gov- 
ernment to  take  possession  of  Cape  Disappointment,  to 
unfurl  the  flag  of  England  and  to  build  a  fort  there  in 
order  to  control  the  entrance  to  the  river.  In  the  Oregon 
Question  John  Bull,  without  talking  too  much,  goes 
straight  to  the  point  and  seizes  the  most  important  strat- 
egical sites  in  the  country.  Uncle  Sam,  on  the  other 
hand,  wastes  his  time  in  words,  fumes  and  threatens. 
Years  have  passed  in  this  way  in  debates  and  fruitless  con- 
troversies, without  a  practical  efifort  to  secure  his  real  or 
pretended  rights  in  Oregon." 

Father  De  Smet,  on  another  occasion,  furnished  Sen- 
ator Thomas  H.  Benton  wath  a  report  of  a  conversation 
which  he  heard  among  British  naval  officers,  disclos- 
ing an  official  intention  to  take  possession  of  Oregon.^ 

But  while  Father  De  Smet  was  an  enthusiastic  believer 
in  the  future  material  greatness  of  his  country,  he  had 

2  See  page  486  of  the  Letters. 


RELIGIOUS    PERSECUTION.  I3I 

many  misgivings  about  its  moral  and  religious  destiny. 
This  arose  almost  entirely  from  the  hostile  feeling  that 
prevailed  extensively  throughout  the  country  at  a  cer- 
tain period  against  the  Roman  Catholic  religion.  The 
crusade  against  the  Church  —  for  it  practically  amounted 
to  that  —  attained  its  greatest  power  during  the  existence 
of  the  scHcalled  Know-nothing  party,  between  1850  and 
i860.  This  ephemeral  organization,  characteristic  of  the 
nervous  energy  of  a  rapidly  developing  country,  was 
founded  in  1852.  It  was  at  first  a  secret,  oath-bound, 
political  fraternity,  whose  object  it  was  to  exclude  aliens 
from  office.  It  was  the  first  formidable  expression  of 
public  alarm  at  the  rapid  influx  of  immigrants  and  the 
growth  of  Roman  Catholicism  in  the  United  States.  Op- 
position to  the  extension  of  slave  power  was  another  of  its 
tenets.  When  it  entered  the  political  arena,  it  did  so 
under  the  name  of  the  American  Party,  and  its  motto  was, 
"  Americans  must  rule  America."  It  was  popularly 
known  as  the  Know-nothing  party,  because,  in  its  earlier 
history,  its  members,  when  questioned  about  the  doings  of 
their  organization,  answered  "  I  don't  know."  In  1854 
it  carried  several  northern  states,  including  New  York, 
and  in  1856  elected  thirty-two  "American"  governors. 
In  the  latter  year  it  ran  a  candidate  for  the  presidency,  but 
carried  the  electoral  vote  of  only  one  state,  Maryland. 
Thereafter  its  fortunes  rapidly  decHned  and  by  i860  it  had 
practically  passed  out  of  existence. 

During  the  active  history  of  this  organization  public 
feeling  against  the  Roman  Catholics  ran  high  and  in  many 
cases  amounted  to  outrageous  persecution,  wholly  incon- 
sistent with  the  principle  of  religious  liberty  which  is  fixed 
in  the  foundation  of  our  government.  It  made  a  deep 
and  lasting  impression  upon  Father  De  Smet,  as  we  now 
know  from  his  personal  letters  to  his  friends  in  Europe. 
We  might  quote  at  great  length  from  his  expressions 
upon  this  subject,  some  of  which  disclose  a  degree  of 
bitterness  quite  as  extreme  as  the  persecution  at  which 


132  LIBERTY    AND    ANARCHY. 

they  were  aimed.  The  following  show  the  general  tenor 
of  all:  "  I  cannot  say  much  of  the  United  States.  This 
vast  land,  with  all  its  advantages,  must  grow  great  and 
mighty,  *  *  *  but  the  American  liberty  and  tolerance, 
so  highly  boasted,  exist  less  in  this  great  Republic  than  in 
the  most  oppressed  country  of  Europe." 

Here  is  another  extract  which  shows  to  what  a  degree 
Father  De  Smet's  vision  was  clouded  by  the  sinister  events 
of  the  time :  "  Let  me  say,  cntrc  nous,  this  country  is  march- 
ing rapidly  toward  anarchy.  I  dare  say  we  are  already 
there  in  some  degree.  Everything  indicates  that  it  will  be 
preceded  by  a  violent  persecution  of  our  holy  religion. 
This  Republic,  where  mobs  are  the  order  of  the  day,  can- 
not long  endure.  Liberty  here  is  a  perversion  of  the  word; 
it  is  license  pure  and  simple.  *  *  *  Qh,  little  Bel- 
gium! She  is  truly  free,  prosperous  and  happy,  because 
she  is  profoundly  Catholic.  Protestantism,  in  all  its 
phases,  has  always  been  given  to  persecution." 

At  this  period  in  his  life,  Father  De  Smet  earnestly 
discouraged  migration  to  America.  As  he  saw  the  vast 
numbers  of  Catholics  coming  to  these  shores,  and  no  pos- 
sibility of  supplying  them  with  teachers,  he  felt  that  they 
could  not  long  withstand  the  influence  of  Protestanism 
and  that  apostacy  would  exceed  the  number  of  conver- 
sions. He  also  advised  some  of  his  more  intimate  friends 
not  to  send  their  children  here  on  account  of  the  total 
change  from  the  life  to  which  they  were  accustomed.  In 
Europe  they  were  to  a  large  degree  born  to  their  station 
in  life.  They  would  not  work  in  well  where  boys  com- 
menced at  the  very  foot  of  the  ladder,  doing  the  common- 
est service  for  the  sake  of  getting  a  start.  Their  lan- 
guage would  furthermore  be  against  them  until  they  could 
gain  a  command  of  English;  and  on  the  whole  they  would 
stand  little  show  in  competition  with  the  universal  adapta- 
bility of  the  American  boy. 

We  have  already  noted  Father  De  Smet's  attitude  toward 
the  questions  of  the  Civil  War.     If  he  had  taken  any  part 


OPPRESSION    AFTER    THE    WAR,  1 33 

in  politics  he  would  doubtless  have  been  what  was  called 
a  "War  Democrat"  —  a  Unionist,  when  it  was  a  ques- 
tion of  the  unity  of  the  country,  but  opposed  to  the  ex- 
treme measures  adopted  by  the  Republicans  at  the  close 
of  the  war.  In  his  letters  are  several  extended  reviews 
of  the  causes  of  the  war,  which  are  generally  judicious  and 
enlightened.  After  the  war  came  to  a  close,  he  became 
imbued  with  a  fear  of  the  radical  element  in  the  dominant 
party  and  looked  upon  its  success  as  fraught  with  great 
danger  to  the  Republic.  He  favored  the  milder  policy  of 
President  Johnson  toward  the  South  and  deprecated  the 
hostility  of  Congress  toward  his  reconstruction  measures. 

His  feeling  on  these  questions  was  doubtless  largely 
controlled  by  the  turn  things  took  in  the  State  of  Mis- 
souri after  the  close  of  the  war.  The  radical  party  for  a 
time  held  control  of  the  State  and  proceeded  to.  extreme 
measures  in  order  to  perpetuate  it.  In  1865  a  new  con- 
stitution was  adopted.  The  convention  which  drafted  it 
was  under  the  control  of  a  few  extremists.  Among  the 
more  drastic  features  was  the  requirement  of  a  test  oath 
as  condition  precedent  to  voting,  holding  office,  teaching 
school,  preaching  the  gospel,  solemnizing  marriage,  prac- 
ticing law,  sitting  as  a  juror,  or  holding  property  in  trust 
for  any  church,  religious  society  or  congregation.  The 
principal  condition  of  the  oath  was  that  the  individual  had 
never  sympathized  with  or  aided  the  South.  There  were 
some  forty-five  offenses  that  he  must  never  have  com- 
mitted; and  so  sweeping  were  its  provisions  that  no  one 
could  truthfully  take  it. 

This  provision  of  the  new  constitution  was  a  failure 
almost  from  the  start.  The  better  sentiment  of  the  com- 
munity rebelled  against  it.  Prominent  men  refused  to  be 
bound  by  it.  Finally  its  validity  was  passed  upon  by  the 
Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States  in  January,  1867,  and 
it  was  declared  to  be  unconstitutional. 

In  one  of  his  letters  to  friends  in  Europe,  written  while 
the  test-oath  was  still  in  force.  Father  De  Smet  thus  sets 


134  THE    MISSOURI    TEST    OATH. 

forth  the  attitude  of  his  Church  upon  the  question:  "  The 
old  proverb  says  sunt  bona  mixta  malis,  and  that  is  the  case 
today  in  Missouri.  Upon  emerging  from  the  war  and  at 
the  beginning  of  the  return  of  peace  we  find  ourselves  in 
fresh  trouble  and  in  a  state  of  cruel  uncertainty.  This  is 
the  way  of  it.  The  radical  party  has  installed  itself,  per 
fas  et  nefas,  at  the  head  of  the  state  government.  The  new 
constitution,  which  has  been  adopted  by  a  slender  majority 
and  which  is  publicly  denounced  as  fraudulent,  requires 
the  clergy  of  all  denominations,  all  professors  of  semi- 
naries and  colleges  and  all  school  teachers  of  either  sex 
(including  nuns)  to  take  the  following  oath:  'that  they 
have  at  no  time  in  the  past  uttered  a  word  nor  sympathized 
in  any  manner  in  favor  of  the  Rebellion,'  etc.  Preaching 
and  performing  the  marriage  ceremony  are  expressly  for- 
bidden to  the  clergy  by  this  law. 

"  The  priests  are  generally  agreed  that,  on  principle, 
such  an  oath  cannot  be  taken,  because  our  authority  does 
not  emanate  from  the  state  and  we  cannot,  without  com- 
promising the  ecclesiastical  estate,  consent  to  take  it.  No 
CathoHc  priest  in  Missouri  will  take  it;  the  Protestant  min- 
isters have  generally  done  so.  The  penalty  for  those  who 
refuse  to  take  this  abominable  ex  post  facto  oath  is  a  fine  of 
$500  and  imprisonment.  The  governor  has  announced 
in  a  speech  '  that  he  has  had  the  state  prison  enlarged  and 
that  the  law  shall  be  executed.  If  this  cruel  law  is  really 
enforced,  our  churches  will  have  to  be  closed  and  our 
schools  and  colleges  will  be  ruined." 

Father  De  Smet  naturally  had  little  love  for  a  political 
party  capable  of  a  faux  pas  like  that  and  he  looked  with? 
deep  dread  upon  the  prospect  of  Grant's  election  in  1868. 
He  felt  that  the  great  general  shared  the  Protestant  an- 
tagonism to  his  Church,  and  that  he  could  not  withstand 
the  more  radical  element  in  his  party  who  would  use  his 
great  authority  among  the  people  to  further  their  extreme 
measures.  When  the  election  came  and  Grant  uttered  his 
famous  manifesto,  "  Let  us  have  peace,"  it  lifted  a  heavy 


THINKS   WITH    HIS  MOUTH   SHUT.  I35 

load  from  Father  De  Smet's  mind  and  he  hoped  that  every 
semblance  of  rehgious  persecution  would  be  purged  from 
the  politics  of  the  country. 

In  all  that  we  have  said  of  Father  De  Smet's  attitude  on 
the  subject  of  religious  persecution,  it  should  be  borne  in 
mind  that  it  has  come  to  us  only  through  his  private  cor- 
respondence. He  was  always  particularly  careful  not  to 
enter  in  any  way  into  political  controversy,  and  no  one 
could  have  told  his  real  feelings  nor  their  deep  intensity. 
"  I  am  keeping  my  mouth  shut  about  politics,"  he  wrote 
to  a  friend,  "  and  I  wish  some  of  our  other  brethren  would 
do  the  same."  It  is  now  a  most  interesting  revelation  to 
learn  what  the  good  priest  thought  on  these  disturbing 
questions;  and  to  know  how  wisely  he  conducted  himself, 
calmly  waiting  for  the  Providence  on  which  he  relied  to 
bring  all  things  to  a  just  result. 


CHAPTER  XIIL 

LITERARY  WORK. 

Description  of  the  Missouri  River  —  Father  De  Smet's  map  —  Fauna 
and  Flora  —  Indian  history  and  traditions  —  Origin  of  Father  De 
Smet's  letters  —  Methods  of  writing  —  Unfounded  aspersions  —  Liter- 
ary records  and  data  —  The  Linton  album  —  Father  De  Smet's  style 
—  List  of  publications. 

RATHER  De  SMET'S  writings  are  a  distinct  contribu- 
Jl  tion  to  human  knowledge.  They  abound  in  descrip- 
tions of  the  regions  through  which  he  passed,  and  al- 
though this  information  has  been  superseded  by  the  more 
thorough  work  of  later  years,  it  served  a  useful  purpose 
in  its  time.  A  particular  example  of  his  descriptive  work 
is  found  in  his  notes  upon  the  Missouri  river,  its  tributaries, 
scenery,  characteristics,  navigation,  etc.  Very  few,  except 
pilots,  knew  that  river  as  well  as  he,  and  they  only  knew  its 
channel,  while  he  was  acquainted  with  its  whole  wonderful 
valley  and  with  the  wild  inhabitants  who  occupied  it.  He 
had  been  at  its  very  source  in  Red  Rock  lake  on  the  Con- 
tinental Divide  and  he  had  passed  over  every  foot  of  its 
length  except  the  distance  between  the  Three  Forks  and 
Sun  river  in  Montana.  The  information  which  he  has  left 
us  on  this  subject  will  always  possess  a  high-  historic  value. 
He  made  an  early  observation  in  regard  to  Great  Salt 
lake  which  later  researches  have  fully  verified.  "  The 
lake,  which  is  now  only  seventy  miles  long  and  thirty-five 
wide,  prabably  filled,  at  a  remote  epoch,  the  whole  valley. 
On  all  sides,  on  the  slopes  of  the  mountains,  at  a  uniform 
height,  are  traces  which  water  alone  could  have  made/' 
The  Quaternary  Lake  Bonneville  of  the  scientists  filled  a 
large  part  of  the  Great  Basin  and  overflowed  to  the  north 
into  Snake  rivef,  making  the  watershed  of  the  lake,  geo- 
logically at  least,  a  part  of  the  Columbia  Basin. 

[136] 


INFORMATION    COLLECTED.  I37 

Father  De  Smet  did  a  great  deal  of  work  in  the  Hne  of 
map-making.  He  thus  refers  to  this  matter  in  one  of  his 
letters:  "  During  the  ten  years  I  spent  in  the  Indian 
country  I  occupied  myself  occasionally  in  drawing  maps  of 
the  countries  through  which  I  passed.  I  availed  myself 
of  the  best  information  I  could  obtain  from  trappers  and 
intelligent  Indians  who  were  well  acquainted  with  the 
mountain  passes  and  the  course  of  the  rivers.  Not  having 
had  instruments  with  me,  the  maps  w^ere  necessarily  only 
an  approximation  to  the  true  positions."  Before  his  death 
he  gathered  together  into  an  ordinary  stub-file  all  his 
manuscript  maps.  They  are  not  executed  with  a  degree 
of  technical  skill  in  draftsmanship  to  justify  their  repro- 
duction; but  they  are  extremely  interesting  and  valuable 
historically.  We  may  cite,  as  a  single  instance,  that,  al- 
though the  Yellowstone  Park  countr}^  was  not  made 
known  to  the  world  until  1870,  these  maps,  prepared  be- 
fore 1850,  show  nearly  every  feature  of  interest  in  that 
wonderful  region.^  In  1851  Father  De  Smet,  at  the  re- 
quest of  D.  D.  ^Mitchell,  drew  a  map  of  the  western  coun- 
try for  the  Government,  and  it  is  now  presumably  on  file 
in  the  Bureau  of  Indian  Affairs  in  Washington. 

The  writings  of  Father  De  Smet  are  full  of  references  to 
the  fauna  and  flora  of  the  countr\^  There  is  not  much 
original  matter  in  these  descriptions,  and  the  changes  in 
scientific  nomenclature  since  they  were  written  are  so 
great  that  it  is  hardly  worth  while  to  attempt  to  utilize 
them.  In  a  general  way.  however,  there  is  a  great  deal  of 
interest  in  his  notes  on-  the  larger  animals,  such  as  the 
bufifalo.  beaver  and  bear,  and  the  large  space  that  these 
animals  filled  in  the  life  of  the  Indian  and  of  the  early 
pioneers. 

The  fund  of  Indian  lore  contained  in  the  Letters  has  per- 
manent value.  It  includes  descriptions  of  the  manners 
and  customs  of  the  Indians,  their  traditions  and  notable 

^  See  pages  182  and  661  of  the  Letters. 


138  WHY    HE    WROTE. 

exploits,  comments  upon  their  intellectual  and  spiritual 
nature,  and  a  great  variety  of  other  subjects.  The  history 
of  the  native  races  of  North  America  can  never  be  fully 
written  v/ithout  consulting  the  writings  of  Father  De 
Smet. 

Coming  now  to  the  vehicle  by  which  Father  De  Smet 
transmitted  to  the  public  the  information  he  had  collected, 
it  remains  to  note  the  most  important  feature  of  his  ca- 
reer, his  literary  work.  The  vast  magnitude  of  this  labor 
can  best  be  judged  by  the  bulk  of  material  contained  in 
the  present  edition  of  his  letters.  The  industry  and  appli- 
cation necessary  to  produce  such  a  result  were  prodigious; 
yet  in  spite  of  the  great  quantity  of  matter  its  quality 
was  such  as  always  to  interest  the  reading  public. 

The  primary  purpose  of  his  writings  was  to  interest  the 
Catholic  public  both  in  Europe  and  America  in  his  mis- 
sionary work  and  thus  aid  in  securing  the  necessary  funds 
for  the  missions.  This  duty  fitted  in  perfectly  with  Father 
De  Smet's  natural  tastesr,  for  there  is  nO'  doubt  that  he 
loved  the  work  and  would  have  achieved  fame  as  a  writer 
even  without  the  specific  motive  above  referred  to.  Con- 
cerning this  primary  motive  Father  De  Smet  has  left  the 
following  definite  statement:  "  I  have  been  more  or  less 
engaged  in  the  Indian  missions  for  something  like  thirty 
years.  The  Reverend  Father  [General]  Roothaan,  of 
blessed  memory,  imposed  it  upon  me  as  a  duty  to  write 
very  fully  and  to  enter  into  minute  details  upon  every- 
thing that  concerned  them  —  the  diverse  countries,  in- 
habited by  the  Indians,  the  manners,  customs,  beliefs,  etc., 
of  these  strange  and  unfortunate  tribes.  My  numerous 
letters,  consisting  of  five  volumes,  bear  witness  that  I  have 
at  least  endeavored  to  discharge  the  duty  laid  upon  me, 
and  with  humility  and  assurance,  I  hope  that  I  can  add 
that  I  have  tried  to  do  it  faithfully.  The  present  Very- 
Reverend  Father  General  encourages  me  by  his  letters  to 
continue  to  give  the  details  of  my  missionary  labors  year 
after  year.     All  the  superiors  and  provincials  of  Missouri 


HOW    HE    WROTE.  1 39 

have  also  called  for  them,  and  I  have  always  been  submis- 
sive to  their  requests  in  the  spirit  of  obedience." 

Nearly  all  of  Father  De  Smet's  writings  are  in  the  form 
of  letters,  published  mainly  in  Europe  where  they  would  be 
most  effective  in  securing  generous  aid  for  the  missions. 
They  were  later  translated  in  large,  part  into  English  and 
published  in  the  United  States.  These  letters  were  ex- 
tensively edited  before  publication,  by  Father  De  Smet's 
express  request,  and  were  shorn  of  whatever  might  pos- 
sibly offend  in  America.  They  were  not  letters  in  the 
strict  sense  of  the  term,  but  careful  dissertations,  often 
addressed  to  several  different  parties,  and  they  contain  little 
of  a  personal  character.  The;  style  bears  evidence  of  this 
editorial  revision.  While  it  is  more  polished,  particularly  in 
the  English  translations,  than  in  the  genuine  letters  not 
written  for  publication,  it  has  less  oi  the  freedom  and  vigor 
which  were  so  characteristic  of  whatever  Father  De  Smet 
said  or  did. 

The  correspondence  of  Father  De  Smet  is  in  both 
French  and  English,  with  a  line  or  two  of  vernacular 
Flemish  (if  writing  to  his  family)  whenever  he  was  saying 
something  that  he  did  not  want  read  if  it  fell  into  the 
wrong  hands.  He  did  not  have  a  very  perfect  command 
of  Enghsh.  He  was  frequently  mixed  up  on  his  tenses  and 
occasionally  on  his  prepositions  and  pronouns.  He  in- 
dulged in  excessively  long  sentences,  som^  of  which  are 
so  involved  that  they  cannot  be  disentangled  except  by 
breaking  them  up  into  separate  parts.  Yet  in  spite  of 
these  drawbacks  there  was  a  freshness,  vigor  and  origi- 
nality of  expression  that  make  his  personal  letters  more 
attractive  than  those  written  expressly  for  publication. 

Like  all  men  who  attain  positions  of  prominence  in  the 
public  eye.  Father  De  Smet  provoked  the  jealousy  of 
inferior  natures  who  were  envious  of  a  career  which  they 
could  not  equal.  Elsewhere  we  have  noted  the  ac- 
cusations presented  to  the  Father  General  at  Rome  con- 
cerning the  subject-matter  of  Father  De  Smet's  writings. 


I40  NEIDER  UND  NARREN. 

He  was  later  accused  of  crookedness  in  regard  to  the 
purely  literary  features  of  his  work.  The  nature  of  these 
charges  is  thus  stated  by  Father  De  Smet :  "  For  some 
years  past  I  have  been  subjected  to  criticisms,  often  personal 
and  malevolent,  on  the  part  of  several  German  priests,  who 
are  saying  in  America,  on  the  testimony  of  one  or  several 
fathers  of  your  Province,  that  my  name  is  only  an  as- 
sumed name  in  the  letters  which  are  printed  and  the  books 
that  are  published  afterwards  bearing  my  name." 

To  Father  De  Smet's  sensitive  and  guileless  nature  these 
false  accusations  brought  genuine  sorrow,  as  he  could  not 
understand  why  any  human  being  should  bear  him  ill-will 
on  so  slender  a  provocation.  Nothing  in  the  present  edi- 
torial studies  of  his  writings  has  been  discovered  that  can 
give  the  slightest  color  to  the  charge,  unless  it  be  a  single 
instance  in  which  Father  De  Smet  consulted  a  friend  in 
preparing  his  reply  to  certain  inquiries  from  Europe  in 
regard  to  the  Indian  Question,  and  transmitted  as  his  own 
his  adviser's  answers.^ 

In  the  last  two  or  three  years  of  his  life.  Father  De  Smet 
spent  considerable  time  in  collecting  material  for  a  his- 
tory of  the  religious  Province  of  Missouri.  Here  is  a  per- 
sonal reference  to  this  work:  "Whilst  confined  to  my 
room  by  sickness,  I  take  great  pleasure  in  my  leisure  mo- 
ments in  collecting  whatever  I  can  concerning  the  history 
of  the  Province.  I  have  commenced  at  the  beginning  of 
our  leaving  Belgium  in  1821,  of  our  coming  to  Missouri 
in  1823,  with  all  its  traveling  incidents  and  digging  the 
first  spadeful  of  earth  on  31st  of  July,  1823,  the  feast  day 
of  St.  Ignatius,  of  the  Novitiate  in  Florissant.  I  have  al- 
ready written  eighty  pages  from  notes  in  the  archives  of 
the  Province,  from  personal  recollections,  and  from  such 
other  information  as  I  am  able  to  obtain." 

Father  De  Smet  did  not  live  to  complete  this  work,  and 
even  the  partial  narrative  to  which  he  refers  is  apparently 
lost. 

2  See  page  1208  of  the  Letters. 


SOURCES    OF    INFORMATION.  I4I 

Father  De  Smet's  methods  of  writing  were  those  of  any 
careful  investigator.  The  following  reference  to  his  study 
of  the  Missouri  river  is  a  good  example  of  all  his  work: 
"  I  spend  my  leisure  hours  in  reading  and  taking  notes 
upon  the  Missouri  and  its  tributaries  and  upon  the  im- 
mense territory  of  500,000  square  miles  that  it  drains. 
I  investigate,  I  draw  upon  my  own  fund  of  information, 
and  then  I  write."  He  drew  from  many  sources,  particu- 
larly the  traders  at  the  remote  posts  with  most  of  whom  he 
was  on  terms  of  close  friendship.  Among  those  whom  we 
know  to  have  furnished  him  information  which  found  its 
way  into  his  letters  are  Alexander  Culbertson  and  E.  T. 
Denig,  distinguished  traders  of  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany, Zephyr  Rencontre  and  Charles  E.  Galpin,  inter- 
preters, and  Joseph  La  Barge,  pilot.  It  was  his  constant 
habit  to  pick  up  information  from  ever}^  source  available 
and  jot  it  down  for  future  use. 

We  have  already  referred  to  the  great  volume  of  Father 
De  Smet's  literary  work.  Considering  the  absence  of 
extraneous  mechanical  aids  which  are  now  regarded  as  in- 
dispensable, as,  for  example,  stenography  and  typewriting, 
the  actual  physical  labor  involved  in  his  work  appears  in- 
credible. Many  of  his  longer  letters  were  copied  several 
times  in  his  own  hand,  showing  that  in  large  degree  he 
had  to  depend  upon  himself  even  for  the  purely  mechani- 
cal labor  of  making  necessary  copies.  He  wrote  a  clear 
hand,  and  at  times  reduced  it  to  a  degree  of  fineness  which 
is  simply  marvelous.  The  Jesuit  training  cultivated  a  fine 
hand,  and  the  necessity  of  economy  when  paper  was  scarce 
and  postage  high  accentuated  the  habit.  To  cite  a  single 
example,  one  of  the  letters  is  so  finely  written  that  a  single 
page  of  ordinary  letter  size  contains  1,231  words  whereas 
a  modern  hand  would  fill  it  with  from  150  to  250  words. 

Father  De  Smet  kept  copies  of  nearly  all  his  published 
letters  and  these  are  now  scattered  through  several  letter- 
books  without  any  careful  index.  He  apparently  did  not 
begin  to  keep  copies  of  his  personal  letters  until  about 


142  THE    LINTON    ALBUM. 

1850,  but  from  that  time  on  the  file  seems  to  be  complete 
except  of  those  letters  written  when  he  was  in  Europe. 
He  preserved  comparatively  few  of  his  letters  received,  or 
if  he  did,  the  files  have  been  lost.  All  of  the  papers  now 
known  to  exist  are  preserved  in  the  archives  of  the  St. 
Louis  University. 

One  of  these  old  records  deserves  more  than  a  passing 
notice.  It  may  be  called  the  Linton  Album  from  the  name 
of  the  owner,  though  now  it  is  a  part  of  the  Father  De 
Smet  papers.  Dr.  Moses  L.  Linton  was  for  many  years 
connected  with  the  St.  Louis  University  and  was  besides 
one  of  the  prominent  citizens  of  St.  Louis. ^  In  the  course 
of  his  professional  career  one  of  his  patients,  a  lady,  made 
him  a  present  of  an  album  as  "  a  souvenir  of  professional 
kindness."  It  was  not  an  album  to  be  devoted  exclusively 
to  the  reception  of  pictures,  but  one  to  be  written  in, 
with  frequent  pages  of  a  specially  ornate  character  on 
w^hich,  presumably,  matters  of  particular  interest  could  be 
set  down. 

Dr.  Linton  devoted  the  present  to  a  unique  purpose  the 
great  importance  of  which  he  doubtless  did  not  at  the  time 
fully  realize.  He  gave  it  over  to  Father  De  Smet  with  the 
request  that  he  would  fill  it  with  the  record  of  his  life.  In 
carrying  out  this  arrangement  Father  De  Smet  did  nearly 
all  the  work  with  his  own  hand.  The  book  is  filled,  in  the 
most  faultless  writing,  with  a  great  variety  of  matters. 
There  are  Indian  legends,  poems,  the  Lord's  Prayer  in  many 
different  Indian  dialects,  and  a  variety  of  other  interesting 
curiosities.  It  contains  a  complete  account  of  the  great  work 
of  1868  which  we  have  narrated  elsewhere.    Throughout  the 

3  Dr.  Moses  Linton  was  born  in  Kentucky  in  1812  and  died  in  St. 
Louis  June  i,  1872.  His  early  education  was  partly  under  Catholic 
influence  and  he  formally  united  with  that  church  in  1841.  He  went  to 
Europe  to  perfect  his  education  and  in  1842  became  a  member  of  the 
medical  faculty  of  the  St.  Louis  University,  retaining  the  place  until 
his  death.  He  took  an  active  interest  in  public  affairs,  and  was  a 
recognized  force  in  the  politics  of  his  city  and  state. 


SEVEN    TIMES    AROUND    THE    GLOBE.  I43 

book  are  photographs  and  sketches,  the  most  important  be- 
ing a  series  of  water  colors  by  one  Matthew  Hastings,  an 
amateur  artist  of  very  pronounced  merit.  Some  of  these 
sketches,  particularly  those  of  the  expedition  of  1868,  are 
of  great  historical  value. 

But  the  most  interesting  and  important  feature  of  this 
album  is  the  itinerary  of  Father  De  Smet's  journeyings. 
He  was  a  great  traveler,  and  he  early  gained  wide  celebrity 
as  such.  He  fell  into  the  habit  of  keeping  a  record  of  the 
distances  traveled  each  year  and  it  finally  became  a  matter 
of  no  little  personal  vanity.  There  are  several  photographs 
of  himself  on  which  he  has  written  the  years  of  his  life 
since  1821  around  the  border  with  the  distances  traveled 
each  year.  There  are  in  his  letter  books  two  other  similar 
records.  Considering  the  means  of  travel  in  the  earlier 
years  of  Father  De  Smet's  life  the  simple  statement  of 
180,000  miles  traveled  gives  an  impressive  idea  of  his  un- 
tiring activity. 

The  album  is  a  beautiful  and  costly  book,  in  enameled 
covers  and  rich  leaves  of  different  tints,  with  ornamental 
pages  scattered  here  and  there.  Father  De  Smet  was  proud 
of  it  and  succeeded  in  making  it  a  memento  of  rare  value. 
Whenever  he  returned  to  St.  Louis  Dr.  Linton  would  get 
him  to  bring  it  up  to  date.  We  find  this  reference  to  it 
among  the  Letters:  "  You  ask  me  for  a  fresh  letter,  or 
rather  for  the  continuation  of  my  itinerary.  For  the  last 
twelve  years,  at  each  of  my  returns  to  St.  Louis,  you  have 
joyously  placed  your  album  upon  my  table.  Each  recurring 
sight  of  it  has  been  a  fresh  pleasure,  like  the  meeting  o^ 
a  familiar  acquaintance,  and  immediately  I  have  resumed 
my  pen  with  gladness  to  lengthen  out  the  old  sketch  with 
one  more  page."  It  is  very  rarely  that  a  public  character 
has  left  behind  him  so  valuable  a  collection  of  personal 
data  as  this  Linton  Album  contains. 

Father  De  Smet  indulged  in  verse  a  good  deal  and  his 
efforts  in  this  line  are  expressed  in  English,  French  and 
Latin.     Some  of  his  verse  merits  perusal,  but  it  is  evident 


144  PUBLISHED    WRITINGS. 

that  prose  was  the  true  medium  for  the  expression  of  his 
thought.  His  prose  style  was  simple  and  direct,  and  never 
monotonous.  It  is  in  many  places  overburdened  with  re- 
ligious phraseology,  and  the  frequent  recurrence  of  the  terms 
peculiar  to  the  work  of  the  Church  detracts  somewhat  from 
its  pleasure  to  the  general  reader.  This  trait  is  more  ap- 
parent in  the  earlier  letters  intended  for  publication  with  a 
view  to  influencing  missionary  contributions,  than  in  his 
later  ofiicial  and  personal  correspondence. 

In  his  personal  letters  Father  De  Smet  indulges  in  a  great 
deal  of  pleasantry,  as  this  was  about  the  only  opportunity 
in  his  order  of  life  for  the  natural  exuberance  of  his  nature 
to  find  expression.  Like  other  men  he  had  his  idiosyn- 
crasies of  style,  one  of  which  was  a  fondness  for  the  use 
of  a  word  under  different  meanings,  often  carrying  the 
practice  to  an  extreme  length. 

Finally  all  his  literary  work  is  characterized  by  a  lofty 
sense  of  purity  and  honor,  and  there  is  little  in  it  to  which 
the  most  scrupulous  taste  could  take  exception.  The  up- 
rightness of  his  life  found  expression  in  his  writings  and 
this  is  the  highest  encomium  that  can  be  bestowed  upon 
them.^ 

*  The  following  is  a  list  of  the  more  important  publications  of  Father 
De  Smet's  writings : 

Published  during  his  lifetime. 

Pamphlet,  by  Father  Verhaegen,  entitled  The  Indian  Missions  in  the 
United  States  of  America,  under  the  Care  of  the  Missouri  Province  of 
the  Society  of  Jesus.  Comprises  34  pages,  26  of  which  are  devoted  to 
two  letters  of  Father  De  Smet's,  one  on  the  Potawatomi  Mission  and 
one  giving  a  brief  account  of  the  1840  Journey. 

Letters  and  Sketches:  zvith  a  Narrative  of  a  Year's  Residence 
Among  the  Indian  Tribes  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  M.  Fithian,  61  N. 
Second  Street,  Philadelphia,  1843. 

French  edition  o-f  the  above,  entitled  Voyages  aux  Montagnes- 
Rocheuses,  et  une  Annee  de  Sejour  ches  les  Tribus  Indiennes  du  Vaste 
Territoire  de  I' Oregon  dependant  des  Etats-Unis  d'Amerique.  P.  J. 
Hanicq,  Malines,   1844. 


PUBLISHED    WRITINGS.  I45 

Second  French  edition,  entitled  Voyages  aux  Montagnes  Rocheuses 
chez  les  Tribus  Indiennes  du  Vaste  Territoire  de  I'Oregon,  Dependant 
des  Etats-Unis  d'Amerique.  Deuxieme  Edition.  L.  Lefort,  Imprimeur- 
Libraire,  Lille,  1850. 

Dutch  edition  of  the  same,  entitled  Reis  naar  het  Rotsgebergte 
(Rocky  Mountains),  door  Eerw.  vader  De  Smet,  Belgisch  zendeling  in 
de  Vereenigde  Staten.     J.  W.  Robijns  en  comp.,  Deventer;  n.  d. 

German  edition  of  the  same,  entitled  Reisen  zu  den  Felsengebirgen 
und  ein  Jahr  unter  den  Wilden  Indianerstdmtnen  des  Oregon  Gebietes. 
St.  Louis,  1865. 

The  preface  to  the  Western  Missions  and  Missionaries  makes  men- 
tion of  a  further  edition  in  Italian,  issued  by  Louis  Prevete,  Palermo, 
1847. 

Oregon  Missions  and  Travels  Over  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in 
1845-46.     Edward  Dunigan,  151   Fulton- Street,   1847. 

French  edition  of  the  above,  entitled  Missions  de  I'Oregon  et  Voy- 
ages aux  Montagnes-Rocheuses,  aux  Sources  de  la  Colombie,  de 
I'Athabasca  et  du  Sascatshawin;  pendant  I'annee  1845-46.  Ouvrage 
orn6  de  16  Gravures  et  de  3  Cartes.  II  se  vend  au  Profit  de  la  Mis- 
sion.    Veuve  Vander  Schelden,  Gand  (1848). 

Second  French  edition  (a  different  translation)  entitled  Missions  de 
I'Oregon  et  Voyages  dans  les  Montagnes-Rocheuses  en  1845-46. 
Ouvrage  traduit  de  I'anglais  par  M.  Bourlez.  Librairie  de  Poussielgue- 
Rusand,  Paris  and  J.  B.  Pelagaud  et  Cie.,  Lyon,  1848. 

Flemish  edition  of  the  same,  entitled  Missien  van  den  Oregon  en 
Reizen  naer  de  Rotsbergen  en  de  Bronnen  dcr  Colombia,  der  Atha- 
basca en  Sascatshawin,  in  1845-46.  Uit  het  fransch  door  een'  klooster- 
ling  van  Latrappe.  Wwe.  Vander  Schelden,  Onderstraet  No.  37,  Gent, 
1849. 

Voyage  au  Grand  Desert  en  1851.  Imprimerie  de  J.  Vandereydt, 
Bruxelles,  1853.     Reprint  of  articles  in  the  Precis  Historiques. 

Western  Missions  and  Missionaries:  a  Series  of  Letters.  James  B. 
Kirker,  late  Edward  Dunigan  and  Brother,  599  Broadway  (up-stairs). 
New  York,   1863. 

Later  editions  from  the  same  plates,  with  a  defect  on  p.  334,  are 
issued  by  P.  J.  Kenedy,  Excelsior  Catholic  Publishing  House,  5 
Barclay  Street,  New  York,  n.  d. 

French  edition  of  the  same,  entitled  Cinquante  Nouvelles  Lettres. 
Publiees  par  Revd.  Edward  Terwecoren  de  la  Compagnie  de  Jesus. 
H.  Casterman,  Paris  et  Tournai,  1858. 

New  Indian  Sketches.  D.  &  J.  Sadlier  &  Co.,  31  Barclay  St.,  Ne-;v 
York,  1865. 

ID 


146  PUBLISHED    WRITINGS. 

A  later  undated  edition  from  the  same  plates,  marked  "  Copyright 
1885." 

The  letters  of  Father  De  Smet  were  also  extensively  published  in 
the  Annates  de  la  Propagation  de  la  Foi,  Lyons;  and  in  the  Precis 
Historiques,  Brussels,  edited  by  Ed.  Terwecoren,  a  friend  and  cor- 
respondent of  De  Smet;  and  in  several  Catholic  periodicals  in  the 
United  States. 

Published  after  Father  De  Smet's  death. 

Father  Frangois  Deynoodt,  S.J.,  of  Belgium,  with  the  approval  of 
Father  De  Smet,  given  a  short  time  before  his  death,  undertook  the 
work  of  bringing  out  a  complete  edition  of  his  writings,  together  with 
a  biographical  sketch.  Up  to  the  time  when  this  work  was  arrested 
by  Father  Deynoodt's  death  the  following  had  appeared : 

Voyages  aux  Montagnes-Rocheuses,  et  Sejour  chez  les  Tribus  Indi- 
ennes  de  I' Oregon  {Etats-Unis).  Nouvelle  Edition.  Revue  et  con- 
siderrablement  augmentee.  Bruxelles,  Victor  Devaux  et  Cie.,  and 
Paris,  H.  Repos  et  Cie.,  1873. 

Voyages  dans  V Amerique  Septentrionale.  Oregon.  Troisieme  edi- 
tion, soigneusement  corrigee  et  augmentee  de  notes,  d'un  portrait  et 
d'une  carte.  Mathieu  Closson  et  Cie.,  Bruxelles,  and  H.  Repos  et  Cie., 
Paris,  1874. 

Lettres  Choisies  du  Reverend  Pere  Pierre-Jean  De  Smet  de  la  Com- 
pagnie  de  Jesus,  Missionaire  aux  Etats-Unis  d' Amerique.  Soigneuse- 
ment Revues  et  corrigees  d'apres  les  manuscrits  de  I'auteur  et  Aug- 
mentees  de  nombreuses  notes.     En  quatre  Series. 

Premiere  Serie.  1849-1857.  Bruxelles,  Mathieu  Closson  et  Cie. ; 
Paris,  H.  Repos  et  Cie.     1875. 

Seconde  Serie.  1855-1861.  Bruxelles,  F.  Haenen;  Paris,  H.  Repos 
et  Cie.     1876. 

Troisieme  Serie.  1860-1867.  Bruxelles,  M.  Closson  et  Cie. ;  Paris, 
H.  Repos  et  Cie.     1877. 

Quatrieme  Serie.     1867-1873.     Bruxelles,  M.  Closson  et  Cie.     1878. 


( 


V 


lav    tlie  ALBVM   of  a  Pliysiciaii 


^-•;?Jc(.^.»1..  A 


=  '">'"' 


'.„.'/,../.. 


^fM 


-Monk.  ?'^.../-/-.-  - 


:.\.,-.Vv../'/-.  /<•  ■»■ '  J-i>^l.v„i. *'.-./ ,^, 


.^..,vv^-a,.  ^;/^....»,.<'-- 


^^>;i 


•1 


^/■i 


FIRST    PAGE   OF    ITINERARY,   FROM    THE    LINTON    ALBUM. 


PART  /. 

THE    POTAWATOMI    MISSION. 
1838-1839. 

Itinerary  of  Father  Dc  Smet  from  182 1  to  1839  inclusive. 

1821. 

*ir  N  the  month  of  July  Father  De  Smet,  then  in  his  twenty- 
"  first  year,  left  Belgium,  his  native  country,  in  company 
with  the  Very  Reverend  Mr.  Nerinckx,  missionary  to  Ken- 
tucky —  Passed  through  Holland,  visiting  several  of  its 
cities  —  Embarked  at  the  Island  of  Texel  on  board  the  brig 
Columbus —  Sailed  on  August  15th  —  Crossed  the  Atlantic 
(first  time)  in  forty  days  —  Landed  at  Philadelphia — Went 
by  steamer  to  Baltimore  —  Went  thence  to  Washington  and 
Georgetown  by  stage  —  Thence  to  the  Novitiate  of  White- 
marsh,  fifteen  miles  from  Annapolis,  where  he  and  his  six 
companions  entered  the  Society  of  Jesus  —  Remained  at 
Whitemarsh  eighteen  months. 

Distance  traveled  during  year,  4,520  miles. 

1823. 

Early  in  the  spring  Father  De  Smet  and  his  six  Belgian 
companions  left  Whitemarsh  with  Fathers  Van  Quicken- 
borne  and  Timmermans,  who  were  sent  by  Monseigneur  Du 
Bourg,  Bishop  of  Louisiana  and  Missouri,  to  St.  Ferdinand, 
near  St.  Louis,  to  found  there  the  first  Jesuit  establishment 
in  the  western  portions  of  North  America  since  the  suppres- 
sion of  the  Society  —  Passed  by  way  of  Baltimore,  Fred- 
ericktown  and  Cumberland  to  Wheeling  on  the  Ohio,  all  the 
way  "  pedibus  apostoloriim,  staff  in  hand  " —  Embarked  at 
Wheeling  in  two  house  boats  and  descended  the  Ohio  to 
Shawneetown,  111.,  where  they  left  the  river  and  crossed 
the  country  on  foot  with  much  fatigiie  to  the  Mississippi 

[147] 


148  TRAVELS   IN   EUROPE. 

opposite  St.  Louis  —  Crossed  the  river  —  Rested  several 
days  at  the  house  of  the  Bishop  —  Went  to  St.  Ferdinand 
fifteen  miles  from  St.  Louis  to  complete  their  two  years  of 
probation  and  to  found  the  second  novitiate  of  the  Society 
of  Jesus  in  the  United  States,  and  to  prosecute  their  studies 
in  philosophy  and  theology  until  1827,  the  year  of  their 
ordination. —  Number  of  novices  increased  from  year  to 
year  —  Churches  were  erected  at  St.  Charles  and  other 
places,  and  the  University  of  St.  Louis  was  founded  in  1830. 
Distance  traveled  in  1823,  1,256  miles. 

1833- 

Left  St.  Louis  for  Europe  under  orders  of  his  Superior 
on  business  for  the  Society  and  on  account  of  his  health  — 
Traveled  by  way  of  Washington  to  New  York,  where  he  em- 
barked (second  passage  of  the  ocean) — Landed  at  Havre, 
France,  and  proceeded  thence  via  Paris  and  Rouen  to  Bel- 
gium —  Arrived  at  Termonde,  his  birthplace. 

Distance  traveled,  4,987  miles. 

1834. 

Visited  the  principal  cities  of  Belgium  —  Embarked  at 
Antwerp  with  three  candidates  to  return  to  America  —  Was 
taken  dangerously  ill  on  the  North  Sea  as  a  result  of  tempest- 
uous weather  and  violent  sea-sickness  —  Advised  by  phy- 
sician that  he  could  not  stand  journey  —  Landed  at  Deal 
in  the  Downs,  England  —  Traveled  by  stage  to  Margate, 
by  steamboat  to  London,  by  stage  to  Dover  —  Crossed  the 
channel  to  Calais  —  Passed  by  Dunkirk  and  Lille  into  Bel- 
gium, and  to  Termonde. 

Distance  traveled,  480  miles. 

1835-1836. 

Father  De  Smet  spent  these  years  in  traversing  the  prin- 
cipal cities  of  Belgium,  Holland  and  France  on  business  of 
the  Society. 

Distance  traveled  in  the  two  years,  738  miles. 


TRAVELS    IN    AMERICA.  1 49 

1837- 

Left  Belgium  —  Entered  France  —  Embarked  at  Havre 
on  an  American  packet  —  crossed  the  Atlantic  (third  time) 
in  thirty  days  —  Landed  at  New  York  —  Went  by  rail  and 
canal  to  Pittsburg  —  Thence  by  steamboat  to  St.  Louis  — 
Visited  the  Lazarist  Seminary  at  the  Barrens,  St.  Mary's 
County,  ]\Io.,  and  then  repaired  with  three  candidates  to 
the  novitiate  near  St.  Ferdinand. 

Distance  traveled,  5,268  miles. 

1838. 

Sent  by  his  Superior,  with  one  father  and  two  brothers,  to 
found  a  mission  among  the  Potawatomies  —  Left  St.  Louis 
May  loth  —  Traveled  all  the  way  by  steamboat,  visiting  en 
route  the  Kickapoos,  Sauks,  lowas,  Otoes,  Missouris  and 
Omahas  —  Arrived  at  destination  May  31st  —  Erected  a 
residence  and  church  several  miles  from  the  river  within  the 
limits  of  the  modern  city  of  Council  Bluffs. 

Distance  traveled,  685  miles. 

1839. 

Father  De  Smet  made  a  trip  up  the  Missouri  on  a  mis- 
sion of  peace  from  the  Potawatomies  to  the  Sioux,  the  two 
tribes  having  been  at  war  —  Traveled  by  steamboat  — 
Started  April  29th  —  Ascended  as  far  as  Vermillion  —  Met 
and  conferred  with  the  Yanktons  and  Sioux  —  Returned  by 
canoe  to  St.  Joseph  (or  St.  Mary)  about  May  15th  —  Went 
to  St.  Louis  in  December  to  procure  supplies  for  the  mission 
—  Traveled  overland  all  the  way,  on  foot,  horseback,  and  by 
wagon. 

Distance  traveled,  1,322  miles. 


CHAPTER  I. 

JOURNEY  TO   COUNCIL  BLUFFS. 

Pursuit  of  the  steamboat  —  Indians  by  the  way —  Site  of  St.  Joseph  — 
Inconveniences  of  river  navigation  —  The  Otoes  and  their  minister  — 
First  touch  of  Indian  life — Disappointing  reception  by  the  Potawa- 
tomies  —  Beginning  of  missicnary  work. 

Reverend  Father  Superior:  ^ 

tPIOUR  REVERENCE  will  have  been  uneasy,  and  will  no 
^^  doubt  have  desired  for  some  time  to  receive  news  from 
this  quarter.  Opportunities  to  get  letters  through  to  you 
by  way  of  Ft.  Leavenworth  are  rare  and  uncertain  and  be- 
sides we  have  all  been  sick  for  a  fortnight,  which  we  at- 
tribute to  the  change  from  the  thin  warm  water  of  the 
river  to  springwater  as  cold  as  ice.  Father  Felix  is  still 
indisposed. 

I  left  the  village  of  the  Kickapoos  on  the  25th  of  May  for 
the  fort  [Leavenworth],  meaning  to  wait  there  for  a  boat. 
When  I  reached  there  I  was  surprised  to  learn  from  Mr. 
Hamilton  that  the  Wilmington  had  left  the  place  two  hours 
before.  Arming  myself  with  a  good  switch,  I  applied  it 
to  the  sides  of  my  poor  Rozinante,  and  galloping,  galloping, 
we  made  together  seven  miles  in  half  an  hour.  I  reached 
the  path  where  the  boat  was  taking  on  wood  in  time.  Noth- 
ing very  remarkable  happened  during  the  voyage.  The 
first  night  we  stopped  two  miles  from  the  village  of  Pashishi. 
Here  the  captain  bought  some  twenty  cords  of  wood,  cut 
by  the  Indian  women.  The  passengers  amused  themselves 
with  putting  up  small  coins  on  sticks  to  test  the  skill  of  the 
little  Indians  in  shooting  with  the  bow :  one  especially,  only 

1  A  hitherto  unpublished  fragment  in  French,  giving  a  description 
of  Father  De  Smet's  journey  from  the  Kickapoo  village  to  the  Potawa- 
tomies  in  1838.  Written  June,  1838,  at  the  Potawatomi  Mission, 
Council  Bluffs. 

[150] 


YOUTHFUL    PORTRAIT   OF    FATHER    DE    SMET. 


%^- 


SAINT    JOSEPH    ROUBIDOUX.  15! 

seven  or  eight  years  old,  handled  his  bow  and  arrows  with 
admirable  dexterity,  for  though  the  distance  was  consider- 
able he  never  missed,  and  he  always  went  promptly  to  put 
the  little  piece  of  money  into  his  poor  mother's  hands.  I 
rejoiced  in  his  good  success :  he  was  the  only  one  who  had  a 
chaplet  and  medal  about  his  neck,  and  I  learned  that  he  had 
been  baptized  by  the  Rev.  F,  Van  Quickenborne.^  Toward 
evening  I  paid  a  visit  to  Pashishi's  village,  situated  on  the 
river. 

The  soil  all  around  seemed  to  me  very  rich,  the  woods  that 
I  traversed  on  my  way  were  superb  and  the  prairie  smiling 
and  beautiful.  There  this  good  chief  might  live  quiet  and 
happy,  if  he  had  the  courage  to  embrace  our  holy  religion, 
for  he  acknowledges  it  to  be  the  only  true  one,  and  he  often 
tells  how  "  in  a  dream,  the  ancient  Fathers  of  the  Society, 
who  had  formerly  visited  his  tribe,  appeared  to  him  and 
reproached  him  with  the  hardness  of  heart  of  his  nation 
and  their  perversity  in  stubbornly  refusing  to  receive  and 
follow  the  law  of  Christ;  that  that  is  the  cause  why  the 
Great  Spirit  has  abandoned  them  to  all  sorts  of  irregularities 
and  to  the  impositions  of  a  false  prophet  ( Keokuk,  of  whom 
I  will  tell  you  hereafter)  ;  and  that  none  of  them  should 
escape  his  wrath  in  the  other  world." 

We  stopped  for  two  hours  at  the  Black-snake  Hills  [St. 
Joseph,  Mo.].  There  I  had  a  long  talk  with  J[oseph] 
R[oubidoux],  who  keeps  a  store  and  runs  his  father's  fine 
farm.  He  showed  me  a  great  deal  of  afifection  and  kindness, 
and  expressed  a  wish  to  build  a  little  chapel  there,  if  his 
father  can  manage  to  get  some  French  families  to  come  and 
settle  near  them.  The  place  is  one  of  the  finest  on  the 
Missouri  for  the  erection  of  a  city. 

At  one  of  the  landings  or  paths,   where  the  boat  had 

2  Rev.  Charles  Felix  Van  Quickenborne;  born  1788  in  Ghent,  died 
near  St.  Charles,  Mo.,  August  17,  1837.  The  first  Jesuit  to  enter  the 
Mississippi  valley  after  the  re-establishment  of  the  Society.  One  of 
Father  De  Smet's  teachers  at  Whitemarsh,  and  his  conductor  to 
Missouri. 


152  THE    SAUKS    AND    lOWAS. 

stonped  to  take  on  wood,  which  generally  takes  an  hour,  I 
took  a  walk  along  the  bank  alone  in  search  of  rare  plants. 
I  had  seated  myself  on  a  rock  when  a  negro  of  eighty  years 
came  up  to  me.  He  seemed  to  stare  at  me  attentively  and 
with  astonishment  because  of  my  black  coat,  and  asked  me 
if  I  was  not  a  Catholic  priest?  Having  replied  that  I  was, 
he  said  to  me  with  tears  in  his  eyes  "  I  too  have  the  happi- 
ness of  being  a  Catholic,  but  it  is  five  years  since  I  had  that 
of  seeing  a  priest  of  my  religion.  Often  have  I  said  my 
prayers  that  I  might  have  the  consolation  of  confessing  once 
more  before  I  die.  Sir,  would  you  not  have  the  kindness  to 
hear  and  help  me?  "  I  made  him  sit  down  beside  me,  and 
I  had  hardly  uttered  the  words  of  absolution  when  the  steam- 
boat bell  gave  the  signal  for  starting.  The  poor  old  man 
wept  with  joy  and  pressed  my  hand,  unable  to  speak  a  word. 
1  cannot  express  to  you  the  consolation  that  this  little  meet- 
ing yielded  me. 

As  we  passed  up  by  the  Sauk  country,  the  bank  for  more 
than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  presented  nothing  but  groups  of 
savages,  warriors,  women  and  children,  accompanied  by  an 
army  of  dogs.  Curiosity  to  see  the  steamboat  pass  had  no 
doubt  attracted  them  to  the  bank.  The  chiefs,  who  knew 
Father  Verreydt  and  Brother  Mazelli,  saluted  us  in  a  most 
affectionate  manner,  wished  us  a  fortunate  voyage  and 
promised  to  come  and  see  us  soon. 

We  stopped  several  hours  at  the  village  of  the  lowas. 
There  I  talked  with  our  former  disciple  Francis,  called  White 
Cloud,  who  since  his  father  was  killed  has  become  chief  of 
the  nation.  I  made  him  a  little  present  of  tobacco,  which  he 
accepted  with  much  pleasure.  It  seems  that  these  Indians 
are  very  much  dissatisfied  with  their  present  minister  and 
they  expressed  to  me  their  wish  to  have  us  among  them. 
They  seem  poor  and  very  drunken,  sell  everything  they  have 
to  obtain  the  unlucky  stuff,  the  great  scourge  of  the  Indians. 
Some  days  before  we  were  there  an  Indian  had  been  killed 
in  a  drunken  row  and  several  mortally  wounded.  I  noticed 
among  them  certain  young  men  well  dressed,  with  silk  rib- 


THE    MISSOURI    NO    JOKE.  1 53 

bons  of  all  colors  entwined  in  their  hair,  a  profusion  of 
porcelain  beads  hung  about  their  necks,  and  wolf-tails  and 
little  bells  attached  to  their  heels,  knees  and  arms.  Their 
faces  too  were  painted  with  great  care,  in  red,  black,  green, 
gray,  yellow  and  brown  according  to  the  taste  of  each.  In 
Belgium  they  would  have  been  taken  for  fine  Harlequins 
from  the  fairs.  All  these  young  men  were  playing  on  a  sort 
of  flageolet  or  flute.  I  addressed  a  young  savage  who  spoke 
English  well  to  learn  the  reason  of  this  distinction.  He 
laughed  and  told  me :  "  Those  gentlemen  are  in  love.  When 
any  one  among  us  desires  to  wed,  he  makes  his  inclination 
known  by  playing  the  flute,  and  passes  whole  days,  and 
often  nights  too,  in  serenading  around  the  girl's  cabin. 
When  the  parents  have  arranged  the  affair,  he  passes  his 
flute  on  to  another  comrade  who  has  been  taken  with  the 
notion."  This  custom  seems  quite  general  among  all  the 
tribes. 

With  the  exception  of  the  snags  which  raked  and  scraped 
us  now  and  then  and  the  sand-bars  which  opposed  our  pas- 
sage, and  which  had  to  be  crossed  at  all  hazards,  our  jour- 
ney was  pleasant  enough.  The  boat  has  to  be  lifted  over 
these  bars,  which  is  not  any  too  easy.  Two  heavy  timbers 
[spars]  are  set  in  the  water  in  front  and  the  boat  made  fast 
to  them.  Then  the  engine  is  started  full  speed,  and  by 
means  of  posts  it  lifts  the  stern  and  shoves  the  boat  forward 
a  yard  or  two  or  three.  Then  the  same  thing  is  done  over 
again,  and  so  on  until  the  bar  is  crossed.  This  often  takes 
a  whole  day. 

The  Devil's  Rake,  which  has  to  be  passed  through,  is  a 
place  much  dreaded  by  the  rivermen.  It  has  the  appear- 
ance of  a  whole  forest,  swallowed  up  by  the  immense  river. 
Gigantic  trees  stretch  their  naked  and  menacing  limbs  on 
all  sides;  you  see  them  thrashing  in  the  water,  throwing 
up  foam  with  a  furious  hissing  sound  as  they  struggle 
against  the  rapid  torrent.  Add  to  these  inconveniences 
the  fear  of  the  boiler  exploding,  which  often  causes  loss 
of  life  among  the  unhappy  travelers.     At  the  same  time 


154  IOWA    SETTLING    UP. 

the  weather  was  excessively  hot:  the  warm,  muddy  water 
of  the  Missouri  was  our  only  drink,  and  myriads  of  mos- 
quitos,  fleas,  and  other  insects  were  our  traveling  com- 
panions. Still  every  one  spoke  of  the  beautiful  fortunate 
voyage  we  had  made.  I  fear  the  sea,  I  will  admit,  but  all 
the  storms  and  other  unpleasant  things  I  have  experienced 
in  four  different  voyages  did  not  inspire  so  much  terror 
in  me  as  the  navigation  of  the  somber,  treacherous  and 
muddy  Missouri. 

The  Missouri  has  the  same  characteristic  features  from 
its  mouth  to  Council  Bluffs,  and  even  1,500  miles  farther. 
After  you  pass  the  fort  the  prairies  along  the  river  are 
more  extensive.  The  eastern  shore  is  being  settled  very 
rapidly  as  far  as  across  the  Nishnabotna,  insomuch  that 
we  were  not  once  obliged  to  stop  to  have  the  crew  cut 
wood.  While  the  boat  was  stranded  on  a  big  sand-bar  ten 
miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Platte,  I  had  a  chance  to 
explore  the  rocks,  and  found  a  great  number  of  petrifac- 
tions scattered  along  the  bank,  among  them  fine  speci- 
mens of  the  pretended  vegetable-animal,  the  polyp,  tubi- 
pores,  encrini,  trachitae,  columnar  asteria,  etc.  I  filled  my 
handkerchief  to  send  to  you.  I  unluckily  forgot  on  board 
the  Hozvard  the  stones  and  minerals  I  had  picked  up  below 
the  fort. 

I  visited  the  village  of  the  Otoes;  they  seem  poor  and 
miserable;  steal  when  they  can  and  get  drunk  when  they 
have  a   chance.      They   have   a    Baptist   minister^  among 

3  Reverend  Moses  Merrill,  born  in  Maine  in  1803,  died  at  the  Otoe 
Mission  February  6,  1840,  cf  consumption.  Baptist  missionary  at  Sault 
Ste  Marie,  1832,  Bellevue  fall  of  1833.  Author  of  hymn-book  and  some 
other  works  in  the  Otoe  language.  The  reports  of  the  Nebraska  State 
Historical  Society  contain  a  biography  by  a  son,  Reverend  Samuel 
Pearce  Merrill,  the  first  white  child  born  in  Nebraska ;  probably  the 
"reverend  ducky"  {ponpon)  of  the  text;  also  extracts  from  journals 
of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Merrill,  in  which  occasional  mention  is  made  cf  bap- 
tisms among  the  Indians. 

There  was  another  Baptist  mission  established  about  1837  by  Rev. 
Samuel  Curtis  and  wife,  first  at  Bellevue,  later  at  Blackbird  Hills, 
among  the  Omahas. 


SOME  REMARKS    ON    MINISTERS.  155 

them.  The  $600  that  the  Government  grants  every  year 
to  this  reverend  gentleman;  the  aid  which  the  Boston 
propaganda  sends  his  Reverence;  and  a  fine  farm  which 
he  cultivates  carefully  and  which  brings  him  in  a  large 
profit  each  year,  are  so  many  items  which  prevail  on  him 
to  remain  among  them;  for  in  the  five  years  that  he  has 
been  here  he  has  not  yet  baptized  a  single  person.  In- 
deed, that  is  all  that  this  horde  of  apostles  of  Protestant- 
ism, with  which  all  the  Indian  territory  is  flooded,  are 
doing.  The  reverend  lady  of  the  Otoe  minister,  and  her 
reverend  little  ducky,  were  on  board  the  same  boat  that 
took  us  up. 

A  visit  to  an  Indian  village  is  worth  a  few  words  of  de- 
scription. Some  of  the  interesting  peculiarities  that  I  ob- 
served among  the  Otoes  were  as  follows.  Groups  of  naked 
children  were  amusing  themselves  on  all  sides  at  various 
games,  and  painfully  lean  dogs  without  end  were  frolick- 
ing with  these  young  sans  culottes.  The  village  consists  of 
a  number  of  large  earthen  huts,  containing  some  ten 
families  each,  and  a  few  tents  of  tanned  buffalo  hides  sewed 
together.  The  women  whom  I  met  presented  an  appear- 
ance of  the  utmost  misery.  Some  were  blind,  others  one- 
eyed,  and  all  extremely  filthy  and  disgusting  to  look  at. 
They  were  clothed  in  petticoats  of  deerskin,  reaching  to 
the  knees,  jackets,  leggings  and  shoes  of  the  same  material, 
all  as  dirty  and  black  as  if  they  had  been  their  towels  for 
the  last  century.  Bracelets  of  polished  metal  were  worn 
at  the  wrists  by  both  sexes,  and  around  their  necks  they 
had  five  or  six  yards  of  porcelain  or  glass  beads. 

I  was  introduced  into  the  largest  cabin,  that  of  the  first 
chief;  his  queen  put  me  a  cushion,  shining  with  grease, 
upon  a  still  more  greasy  mat,  and  made  me  the  sign  to 
be  seated.  She  then  presented  me  a  rirdely-made  wooden 
dish  (for  everything  here  is  done  with  the  hatchet  and  knife) 
and  a  pot-spoon  of  the  same  material,  which  seemed  not 
to  have  been  washed  since  the  day  of  their  manufacture. 
Then  she  served  me  with  a  stew  of  her  o\vn  compounding 


156  PIE,    CHILDREN    AND    DOGS. 

and  a  pie  of  a  grey  color  and  sufficiently  disgusting  in 
appearance.  To  refuse  a  savage  who  offers  you  food  in 
his  own  cabin  would  be  considered  a  grave  affront.  "  Well, 
well,"  I  said  to  myself,  "you  are  not  in  Belgium;  let  us 
begin  our  apprenticeship  in  earnest,  and  so  long  as  we  are 
in  the  woods,  howl  heartily  with  the  wolves."  A  dozen  or 
more  dogs,  sitting  on  their  hams  in  front  of  me,  with  their 
eyes  fastened  on  my  dish,  seemed  really  to  envy  me  my 
happiness  as  I  approached  my  spoon  to  it,  and  to  be  offer- 
ing their  aid  and  assistance  in  case  of  need.  But  it  was 
not  necessary  to  have  recourse  to  my  canine  company;  I 
had  a  good  appetite  and  the  stew  was  excellent,  a  buffalo 
tongue  with  a  good  gravy  of  bear  fat,  mixed  with  flour 
from  the  wild  sweet  potato.  I  thanked  my  hostess,  and 
handed  her  dish  back  much  cleaner  than  I  had  received  it. 

It  is  sorrowful  to  see  the  neglected  condition  of  the  little 
children  in  all  the  Indian  villages.  Their  hair  seems  never 
to  have  undergone  the  operation  of  the  brush,  so  that  their 
heads  look  like  masses  of  cobwebs.  Many  have  eye 
trouble,  and  their  faces  and  all  their  limbs  look  as  if  water 
had  never  touched  them.  The  younger  ones  are  generally 
naked,  and  great  was  the  alarm  which  my  presence  oc- 
casioned among  this  juvenile  portion  of  the  community, 
wherever  I  presented  myself  without  warning.  The  dogs 
in  these  villages  (all  belonging  to  the  w^olf  family)  are  the 
greatest  torments  to  a  stranger;  the  barking  of  one  brings 
all  the  others  together,  of  all  sizes;  they  form  a  chorus, 
utter  piercing  yelps  and  roars  and  follow  you  in  all  di- 
rections. 

The  men  seem  to  pass  their  time  in  complete  idleness: 
playing  cards  and  smoking  are  their  only  amusements. 
They  subsist  the  greater  part  of  the  time  on  a  small  quan- 
tity of  dried  meat  and  a  mush  made  of  roasted  and  pounded 
corn.  But  this  temperance  and  frugality  are  the  result  of 
necessity,  not  of  choice,  for  when  they  have  abundance 
you  will  see  them  thrust  their  whole  hands  into  the  pot 
and  eat  incessantly  like  starving  wolves  until  they  are 


FLOCK    NOT    ENTHUSIASTIC.  I57 

ready  to  split;  then  they  lie  down  and  go  to  sleep.  All 
their  wealth  consists  of  a  few  horses  which  graze  at  large 
in  the  uncultivated  prairie.  It  is  truly  a  melancholy  sight 
to  see  these  desolate  villages  surrounded  by  such  fine 
country  and  such  fertile  virgin  soil.  The  Indian  at  his 
birth  is  wrapped  in  rags;  he  grows  up  in  buffalo-skins;  he 
is  raised  in  idleness,  and  industry  has  no  attractions  for 
him;  he  never  tries  to  improve  his  condition,  and  in  fact 
were  one  of  them  to  aspire  to  higher  enjoyments  and  to 
raise  his  fortune  by  his  efforts  and  activity,  he  would  soon 
find  himself  the  object  of  universal  hatred  and  envy,  and 
whatever  he  had  gathered  together  would  speedily  be  pil- 
laged or  sacked. 
^/  We  arrived  among  the  Potawatomies  on  the  afternoon 
of  the  31st  of  May.  Nearly  2,000  savages,  in  their  finest 
rigs  and  carefully  painted  in  all  sorts  of  patterns,  were 
awaiting  the  boat  at  the  landing.  I  had  not  seen  so  im- 
posing a  sight  nor  such  fine-looking  Indians  in  America: 
the  lowas,  the  Sauks  and  the  Otoes  are  beggars  compared 
to  these.  Father  Verreydt  and  Brother  Mazelli  went  at 
once  to  the  camp  of  the  half-breed  chief,  Mr.  Caldwell, 
four  miles  from  the  river.  We  were  far  from  finding  here 
the  four  or  five  hundred  fervent  Catholics  we  had  been 
told  of  at  the  College  of  St.  Louis.  Of  the  2,000  Pota- 
watomies who  were  at  the  landing,  not  a  single  one  seemed 
to  have  the  slightest  knowledge  of  our  arrival  among 
them,  and  they  all  showed  themselves  cold  or  at  least  in- 
different toward  us.  Out  of  some  thirty  families  of  French 
half-breeds  two  only  came  to  shake  hands  with  us;  only 
a  few  have  been  baptized.  All  are  very  ignorant  concern- 
ing the  truths  of  reHgion;  they  cannot  even  make  the  sign 
of  the  cross  nor  say  a  pater  or  an  ave.  This,  as  I  suppose, 
is  the  cause  of  their  great  reserv- e  toward  us.  They  change 
wives  as  often  as  the  gentlemen  of  St.  Louis  change  their 
coats.     *     *     *     (Portion  illegible.) 

A  fortnight  after  our  arrival  we  discovered  one  single 
Catholic  Indian;  he  came  to  see  us  and  asked  our  blessing. 


158  VISION    OF    FATHER    FELIX. 

We  tried  to  get  him  to  stay  with  us;  he  knew  his  prayers 
well  and  could  serve  us  for  a  catechist. 

Mr.  C[aldwell?],  though  far  advanced  in  years,  seems 
to  be  a  very  worthy  honest  man :  he  is  well  disposed  toward 
us  and  ready  to  assist  us.  The  half-breeds  generally  seem 
affable  and  inclined  to  have  their  children  instructed,  and 
we  receive  many  tokens  of  afifection  from  the  Indians 
themselves;  they  come  to  see  us  every  day.  The  chief  has 
given  us  possession  of  three  cabins,  and  we  have  changed 
the  fort  which  Colonel  Kearny*  has  given  us  into  a  church. 
On  the  day  of  Corpus  Christi  I  put  up  a  cross  on  the  roof, 
and  while  I  climbed  the  ladder  to  put  it  in  place,  and  my 
flag  floated  from  a  hole  in  my  breeches.  Father  Felix  be- 
held the  devil  clap  his  tail  between  his  legs  and  take  flight 
over  the  big  hills. 

I  employ  my  days  in  instructing  the  children:  I  have 

already  baptized ,  among  them  a  young  man  of 

eighteen  years  of  age.  At  present  I  am  preparing  for 
baptism  twelve  or  fourteen  of  ten  to  twenty  years.  This 
nation  is  divided  into  different  bands,  living  five  to  twenty- 
five  miles  apart.  We  try  to  visit  them  once  a  week,  to 
instruct  the  children  and  preach  to  the  elders,  through  an 
interpreter.  Providence  has  placed  us  at  some  distance 
from  any  great  number  of  these  savages,  for  since  the  ar- 
rival of  the  steamboat,  which  brought  a  large  quantity  of 
Hquor,  they  are  quarreling  and  fighting  from  morning  till 
night.  When  they  are  sober  the  most  perfect  harmony 
prevails  throughout  the  nation:  whole  years  often  pass 

*  Brigadier-General  Stephen  W.  Kearny  of  the  Mexican  War,  Gov- 
ernor of  California,  etc.  "  Old  "  Fort  Kearney  at  Table  Creek  (Ne- 
braska City)  was  named  for  him,  he  having  chosen  the  site  in  1838 
and  begun  the  construction  of  a  post  there  in  1846;  also  the  Fort 
Kearney  of  the  emigrant  period,  on  the  Platte,  opposite  the  present 
city  of  Kearney,  upon  his  death  in  1848.  His  name  was  Kearny,  but 
the  other  spelling  has  become  fixed  in  the  maps. —  Perhaps  more  fre- 
quently mentioned  by  contemporary  travelers  than  any  other  army 
officer;  see  Catlin,  Parkman,  Beckwourth,  Garrard,  Hildreth,  Bryant, 
etc. 


SLANDER    A    CIVILIZED    ART.  1 59 

without  quarrels.  They  are  not  at  all  addicted  to  the  per- 
nicious practice  of  slander;  the  most  corrupt  regard  a 
slanderer  with  disdain,  while  the  more  respectable  avoid 
him  as  they  would  a  snake.  No  one  would  dare  make  ac- 
cusations against  those  who  enjoy  a  good  reputation,  and 
as  for  the  good-for-nothings,  they  do  not  lower  themselves 
so  far  as  to  speak  of  them.    (Portion  illegible.) 


CHAPTER  II. 

COMMENTS  ON  THE  SITUATION. 

Dangers  of  the  Missouri  —  Kickapoos,  Sauks,  lowas  and  Otoes  — 
Hindrances  to  conversion  of  Indians  on  the  frontiers  —  The  Pawnees 
prefer  Catholic  priests  —  Thlir  opinion  of  liquor  —  The  Omahas  come 
and  dance  —  The  Indian  Question  in  1838  —  Notes  on  the  country  — 
Missionary  progress. 

Reverend  and  Very  Dear  Father:  * 

•jFjNOWING  the  great  interest  that  you  take  in  the  In- 
"^  dian  missions,  I  propose  to  give  you  some  details 
concerning  those  which  we  have  just  undertaken,  adding 
various  Indian  traditions  and  a  few  observations  upon  the 
manners  and  customs  of  these  peoples.  In  these  remote 
regions,  we  necessarily  meet  with  numerous  privations; 
but  the  Lord  never  lets  himself  be  outdone  in  generosity; 
he  repays  a  hundredfold  the  slightest  sacrifice  made  for 
him;  and  if  our  privations  are  great,  our  consolations  are 
much  greater.  I  thank  Divine  Providence  daily  for  having 
put  me  in  these  countries. 

I  set  out  from  St.  Louis  on  the  loth  day  of  May,  in  the 
company  of  our  Reverend  Father  Superior  [Verhaegen]^ 
who  was  to  visit  the  Kickapoos,  and  Father  Helias,  who 
was  going  to  found  a  new  mission  among  the  Germans 

1  To  the  Father  General,  dated,  Nation  of  the  Potawatomies  at  the 
Council  Bluffs,  July  20,  1838.  Translated  from  the  French  of  Father 
De  Smet's  manuscripts.  A  portion  of  the  letter  was  published  as 
Letter  XXVII,  Missions  de  I'Oregon. 

2  Peter  Joseph  Verhaegen,  a  Belgian,  one  of  the  young  men  who 
came  to  America  in  1821  and  to  Missouri  in  1823,  with  Father  De 
Smet;  died  at  St.  Charles  July  21,  1868,  at  the  age  of  sixty-eight. 
Father  Verhaegen  was  very  closely  connected  with  Father  De  Smet 
throughout  their  lives.  He  was  a  finely  educated  man,  and  was  first 
president  of  the  St.  Louis  University,  first  vice-provincial  of  Missouri, 
provincial  of  Maryland  and  first  president  of  St.  Joseph's  College  at 
Bardstown. 

[160] 


SOME   OBJECTIONS   TO   THE   MISSOURI.  l6l 

around  Jefferson  City.  I  made  the  whole  journey  on  the 
steamboat,  and  arrived  among  the  Potawatomies  of  the 
Prairies  on  the  31st  of  the  same  month. 

To  relate  to  you  all  our  adventures  on  the  old  Father  of 
Waters,  the  Mississippi,  and  particularly  on  the  Missouri 
or  "  muddy  water,"  which  we  ascended  for  a  distance  of 
over  800  miles;  to  describe  to  you  all  the  little  towns  and 
villages  which  are  born,  as  if  by  magic,  upon  its  banks;  the 
vertical  cliffs,  several  hundred  feet  high,  the  caverns,  the 
forests  and  the  immense  prairies  which  follow  one  another 
in  prodigious  variety  on  its  shores;  its  bed,  strewn  with 
numberless  islands  one,  two,  three  and  even  four  leagues 
in  length  and  filled  with  every  kind  of  game:  this  task 
would  carry  me  a  great  deal  too  far  and  could  only  in- 
terest you  in  a  slight  degree.  I  will  only  remind  you  that 
steam  navigation  on  the  Missouri  is  one  of  the  most  dan- 
gerous things  that  a  man  can  undertake.  In  my  opinion, 
the  sea,  despite  its  storms  and  the  tribute  w^hich  one  is 
compelled  to  pay,  is  much  to  be  preferred.  The  current 
of  this  river  is  of  the  swiftest;  high  pressure  is  therefore 
required  to  overcome  it,  and  hence  the  continual  danger 
to  which  the  traveler  is  exposed  of  finding  himself  over- 
turned, and  even,  as  happens  only  too  often,  of  having  his 
limbs  shattered  and  hurled  here  and  there  to  a  terrible 
elevation.  Add  the  sand-bars  with  which  the  river  is  filled, 
and  upon  which  one  is  always  being  cast,  and  the  innumer- 
able snags  and  saw}^ers  upon  which  boats  are  often 
wrecked;  all  these  things  brought  us  several  times  within 
a  finger's  breadth  of  our  destruction.  Snags  are  trees 
whose  roots  are  imbedded  in  the  mud  at  the  bottom  of  the 
river,  with  their  branches  spreading  on  all  sides  below, 
above  and  at  the  water-level.^ 

I  stopped  three  days  at  our  residence  of  the  Kickapoos. 
to  wait  for  Father  Verreydt  and  Brother  Mazelli,  with 
whom   I  was  to  continue  my  journey.     The  head  chief 

*  This  excellent  summary  of  the  difficulties  of  Missouri  river  navi- 
gation is  evidence  of  Father  De  Smet's  habit  of  close  observation. 
II 


102  THE   DEPRAVED    OTOES. 

Pashihi  appeared  much  attached  to  us,  and  showed  us  a 
great  deal  of  affection.  He  is  a  man  full  of  wit  and  good 
sense,  who  needs  only  a  little  courage  to  become  an  excel- 
lent Christian;  he  told  us  several  times  that  in  a  vision  he 
had  seen  the  "  Ma-che-ta-co-ni-a "  (Black-gowns)  in 
heaven,  reproaching  his  nation  with  their  unfaithfulness 
and  vices,  and  telling  them  that  because  they  were  not 
willing  to  listen  to  them  in  time,  the  Great  Spirit  had 
rejected  them. 

The  Sauk  Indians,  who  are  two  days'  journey  further 
north,  were  drawn  up  on  the  river  bank  to  see  us  pass, 
and  the  chiefs,  who  had  often  visited  our  residence,  recog- 
nizing us  by  our  black  robes,  saluted  us  very  cordially 
with  a  shout  of  joy,  and  wished  us  a  pleasant  and  pros- 
perous voyage.  The  lowas,  whom  we  visited  in  passing, 
also  seemed  very  favorable  to  us,  and  sought  to  keep  us 
among  themselves.  Their  head  chief.  White  Cloud,  had 
been  my  disciple  at  St.  Ferdinand  a  dozen  years  before. 
Before  we  reached  our  destination  we  traversed  the  vil- 
lages of  the  Otoes.^  They  build  their  huts  in  the  form  of 
mounds  and  cover  them  with  sod.  These  huts  are  so 
large  that  150  people  may  be  lodged  in  one  at  their  ease; 
the  interior  resembles  a  temple;  the  rafters  which  support 
the  sods  rest  upon  a  score  of  pillars  or  posts;  a  hole  ar- 
ranged in  the  top  lets  in  Hght  and  gives  an  outlet  to  the 
smoke.  They  are  a  poor  nation  and  very  much  addicted 
to  thievery  and  drink.  They  are  the  only  Indians  I  know 
of  who,  in  their  misfortunes  and  reverses,  lay  the  blame 
upon  the  Great  Spirit  and  dare  to  blaspheme. 

One  day  when  the  boat  had  stopped  and  the  crew  landed 
to  cut  wood,  I  walked  back  from  the  river  quite  a  distance. 
In  my  excursion  I  met  an  old  man  of  ninety  who  halted  as 
I  drew  near  and  looked  at  me  with  astonishment  mingled 
with  joy.  He  had  judged  from  my  garb  that  I  was  a 
priest,  and  when  I  had  confirmed  him  in  his  idea,  "Ah !  my 

4  The  Otoes  dwelt  near  the  mouth  of  the  Platte,  sometimes  on  its 
left  bank,  sometimes  on  the  right. 


INDIANS'   CONVERSION  A  WORK  OF  GOD.  1 63 

Father,"  he  cried,  "  I  am  a  CathoUc,  and  it  is  many  years 
since  I  have  had  the  happiness  of  seeing-  a  priest.  I  have 
so  ardently  desired  to  see  one  before  I  die!  Help  me 
therefore  to  be  reconciled  with  God."  I  hastened  eagerly 
to  comply  with  his  request,  and  we  both  of  us  wept  abun- 
dantly. Then  he  conducted  me  back  to  the  boat  and  I 
parted  from  the  good  old  man;  but  I  cannot  tell  you  the 
consolation  that  I  tasted  in  this  most  fortunate  meeting. 

When  we  arrived,  and  while  our  things  were  being  un- 
loaded, a  young  man  was  brought  on  board  the  boat,  very 
dangerously  sick.  It  was  late,  and  on  account  of  our  bag- 
gage I  could  not  go  ashore  to  the  cabin  that  the  head 
chief  of  the  nation  had  caused  to  be  made  ready  for  us. 
The  young  man  suffered  a  great  deal  during  the  night; 
though  unknown,  I  went  into  his  room  to  relieve  or  con- 
sole him.  I  learned  that  he  was  a  Catholic,  and  that  he 
had  received  from  an  uncle,  a  zealous  churchman,  a  Chris- 
tian education;  moreover,  he  had  always  felt  a  great  de- 
votion for  the  Mother  of  God.  For  six  years  he  had  been 
traveling  in  the  mountains,  among  the  different  nations, 
without  ever  seeing  a  priest.  I  had  no  trouble  to  bring 
him  to  shrive  himself,  and  I  gave  him  extreme  unction. 
I  have  since  learned  that  he  died  the  day  after  he  reached 
the  end  of  his  voyage. 

There  are  great  obstacles  to  be  overcome  in  converting 
an  Indian  nation;  the  principal  ones  are  the  immoderate 
use  of  strong  drink,  polygamy,  superstitious  practices  and 
prejudices,  a  language  of  which  it  is  very  hard  to  acquire 
a  knowledge,  and  their  inclination  to  a  wandering  life; 
this  inclination  is  so  strong  that  they  become  melancholy 
and  morose  if  they  stay  three  months  in  the  same  place; 
their  conversion  is  therefore  altogether  a  work  of  God. 
This  portion  of  the  divine  Master's  vineyard  requires  from 
those  who  tend  it,  a  life  of  crosses,  privations  and  patience. 
Still  we  hope,  that  aided  as  we  are  by  grace,  and  assisted 
by  your  prayers  and  those  of  all  our  brothers,  the  Lord 
will  grant  some  measure  of  success  to  our  feeble  labors. 


164  PROGRESS    OF    MISSOURI    WORK. 

The  results  of  the  last  four  [?]  months  have  been  truly 
consoling;  a  goodly  number  of  the  savages  show  a  desire 
of  being  instructed.  We  have  opened  a  school;  but  for 
the  lack  of  larger  quarters  we  are  only  able  to  receive 
some  thirty  children.  Twice  a  day  we  give  an  instruction 
to  those  whom  we  are  preparing  for  baptism.  We  have 
already  admitted  118,  and  I  have  had  the  consolation  of 
baptizing  105.  The  day  of  the  glorious  Assumption  of 
the  most  holy  Virgin  Mary  will  not  soon  be  forgotten 
among  the  Potawatomies.  The  church  where  the  divine 
service  was  celebrated  was  perhaps  the  pooresl  in  the 
world;  but  twelve  young  neophytes,  who  three  months  be- 
fore had  had  no  idea  of  the  law!  of  God,  sang  mass  in  a 
manner  truly  edifying.  Reverend  F.  Verreydt  preached 
upon  devotion  to  the  Mother  of  God;  afterward  I  gave  an 
instruction  upon  the  ceremonies  and  upon  the  necessity  of 
baptism,  and  conferred  that  sacrament  upon  a  score  of 
adults;  the  wife  of  the  head  chief  was  among  the  number. 
This  woman  is  very  charitable,  she  has  zeal  and  stands 
high  in  the  esteem  of  her  nation.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that 
her  conversion  will  soon  attract  others  to  our  holy  re- 
ligion. After  the  mass  I  blessed  four  marriages.  In  the 
evening  we  paid  a  visit  to  one  of  these  converted  families; 
all  our  little  congregation  was  assembled  to  return  thanks 
to  God  for  the  signal  benefits  with  which  he  had  over- 
whelmed them  during  this  feast.  These  honest  people 
are  now  overrunning  the  country  in  every  direction  to  win 
their  near  relations  and  acquaintances,  to  bring  them  to 
be  instructed  and  enjoy  the  same  happiness  with  them- 
selves. Several  Indian  women,  whose  relations,  being  still 
in  paganism,  would  not  let  us  know,  have  dragged  them- 
selves, sick  as  they  were,  for  a  distance  of  two  to  three 
leagues,  to  come  and  ask  us  for  baptism  before  they  died. 
I  could  tell  you  many  other  admirable  anecdotes  of  our 
new  converts,  but  the  narrative  would  carry  me  too  far.^ 

^  For  the  part  of  this  letter  omitted  here,  see  p.  1098. 


THE    PAWNEES    HAVE    PRINCIPLES.  165 

Three  of  the  head  chiefs  of  the  Pawnee  Loups*"'  came  to 
pay  us  a  visit,  and  lodged  in  our  cabin.  They  noticed  the 
sign  of  the  cross  that  we  made  before  and  after  our  prayers 
and  our  meals,  and  when  they  went  home,  they  taught  all 
the  inmates  of  their  village  to  make  the  same  sign,  as 
something  agreeable  to  the  Great  Spirit.  They  begged 
us,  through  their  interpreter,  to  come  and  visit  them. 
The  Government  had  sent  them  a  Protestant  minister,'''  but 
they  did  not  choose  to  keep  him.  "  They  knew,"  they  told 
him,  "  that  the  devil  accompanied  such  as  he;  and  since 
they  did  not  wish  to  have  such  a  guest  in  their  village, 
they  could  not  admit  him  himself."  The  use  of  liquor  is 
prohibited  in  this  tribe,  and  when  any  one  tries  to  bring 
them  any  they  answer  that  they  are  crazy  enough  already 
without  drink.  They  have  also  a  singular  custom;  they 
eat  the  vermin  off  one  another,  and  render  the  same  ser- 
vice to  those  who  come  to  visit  them. 

The  Protestant  minister  of  the  Omahas  also  had  to 
move.  This  tribe  has  a  population  of  about  2,000  souls. 
Two  of  their  chiefs,  Kaiggechinke  and  Ohio,  with  two- 
score  warriors,  came  to  dance  the  calumet,  or  their  dance 
of  friendship  for  us.  Such  a  dance  is  really  worth  seeing, 
but  it  is  not  easy  to  give  one  an  idea  of  it,  because  every- 
thing seems  confusion.  They  yell  and  strike  their  mouths, 
at  the  same  time  performing  leaps  of  all  descriptions,  now 
on  one  foot,  now  on  the  other,  always  at  the  sound  of 
the  drum  and  in  perfect  time,  pell-mell,  without  order, 
turning  to  the  right  and  left,  in  every  direction  and  in 
every  shape,  all  at  once.  They  all  evinced  the  greatest 
affection  for  us  and  prayed  us  to  smoke  the  calumet  with 

8  The  Pawnee  villages  were  on  the  Platte,  about  the  present  Fre- 
mont and  Columbus. 

"^  Probably  the  reference  is  to  Samuel  Allis  or  Reverend  John  Dun- 
bar, Presbyterians,  who  went  among  the  Pawnees  in  the  fall  of  1834. 
The  former  attached  himself  to  the  band  known  as  Pawnee  Loups, 
the  latter  to  the  Grand  Pawnees.  They  remained  among  them  until 
1846,  when  the  hostile  operations  of  the  Sioux  made  the  country 
unsafe. 


1 66  ONCE   POWERFUL   NATIONS. 

them.  I  showed  our  chapel  to  the  chiefs,  who  appeared  to 
take  great  interest  in  the  explanation  I  gave  them  of  the 
cross,  the  altar  and  the  images  of  the  passion  of  Our  Lord 
Jesus  Christ.  Afterward  they  urgently  begged  me  to 
come  and  make  them  a  visit,  to  baptize  their  children,  and 
they  made  me  a  present  of  a  fine  beaver  skin  for  a  tobacco- 
bag.  I  in  turn  gave  them  some  chaplets  for  the  chil- 
dren and  to  each  one  a  fair  copper  cross,  which  they  re- 
ceived with  great  gratitude,  kissing  them  respectfully  and 
putting  them  around  their  necks.  When  speaking,  they 
addressed  me  in  the  most  cordial  manner.  They  are 
scarcely  more  than  a  hundred  miles  from  Council  BlufTs.^ 

The  new  Indian  territory,  as  lately  arranged  by  the 
Government,  will  have  as  its  limits  the  Red  river  on  the 
south,  and  on  the  east  the  State  of  Arkansas  and  that  of 
Missouri,  with  the  river  of  the  same  name;  so  that  we  have 
already  seen  a  good  portion  of  it.  The  territory  now  con- 
tains the  following  nations:  Poncas,  Dourvas  [?],  Otoes, 
Kansas,  Osages,  Kickapoos,  Potawatomies,  Delawares,  Sha- 
wanos,  Weas,  Piankishaws,  Peorias,  Kaskaskias.  Ottowas, 
Senecas,  Sauks,  Ouapaws,  Creeks,  Cherokees  and  Choc- 
taws.  There  are  about  100,000  of  them,  sad  remnants  of 
once  powerful  nations.  When  the  Europeans  visited  the 
new  world  for  the  first  time,  they  found  its  islands  and 
shores  extremely  populous;  but  several  tribes  that  were 
flourishing,  have  now  disappeared  from  the  surface  of  the 
earth;  the  very  names  of  many  are  unknown.  As  fast  as 
the  whites  extended  their  dominion  in  the  east,  the  savages 
withdrew  toward  the  west,  leaving  behind  them,  at  every 
step  that  they  took,  mournful  monuments  of  their  mis- 
fortunes and  decadence.  Here  to-day  are  100,000  of  them, 
pushed  out  upon  the  borders  of  the  vast  and  uninhabitable 
prairie;  hunting  cannot  suffice  for  their  subsistence;  they 
are  unused  to  labor;  one  may  well,  therefore,  feel  serious 
apprehensions  concerning  their  lot.     Ah!  if  there  were 

8  The  Omahas  were  on  the  right  or  west  bank  of  the  Missouri  river, 
twenty-five  miles  below  Sioux  City. 


MINISTERS    AND    OTHER    ANIMALS.  167 

more  of  us,  with  means  to  correspond,  this  would  perhaps 
be  the  moment  to  accompHsh  permanent  good  among 
them  and  to  prevent  their  total  extinction.  There  are 
besides  many  other  nations  on  both  sides  of  the  mountains 
called  Rocky  Mountains:  they  number  several  hundreds 
of  thousands;  some  of  these  tribes,  which  are  very  nu- 
merous, have  already  invited  us  to  come  and  settle  among 
them.  I  may  say  that  almost  all  the  nations  of  the  north- 
ern part  of  America  show  a  great  predilection  for  the 
Catholic  missionaries  and  seem  to  stretch  their  arms  to- 
ward us  in  preference,  notwithstanding  the  millions  of 
dollars  that  the  Protestant  societies  are  spending  to  at- 
tach these  poor  people  to  themselves;  for  as  a  matter  of 
fact,  these  dollars  serve  only  to  enrich  the  so-called  minis- 
ters of  the  gospel,  with  their  wives  and  children  that  they 
drag  around  with  them.  Meanwhile  they  come  and  oc- 
cupy the  ground,  and  wherever  they  are,  it  is  very  diffi- 
cult to  form  a  Catholic  establishment  afterward. 

It  is  not  uncommon  to  meet  bears  in  our  neighborhood; 
but  this  animal  will  seldom  attack  a  man  first,  though  he 
will  defend  himself  when  wounded.  Wolves  come  very 
often  to  our  very  doors;  quite  lately  they  have  carried  off 
all  our  chickens.  They  are  of  all  kinds;  prairie-wolves, 
small  and  timid;  black  mountain  wolves,  large  and  dan- 
gerous. We  are  obliged  to  be  continually  on  our  guard 
against  these  bad  neighbors,  and  so  I  never  go  out  without 
a  good  knife,  a  tomahawk  or  a  sword-cane.  There  are 
snakes  too,  among  which  I  might  name  the  copper-head, 
the  garter-snake  [f  coulciivrel,  blacksnake  and  rattlesnake. 
Field,  forest  and  cabin  swarm  with  mice,  which  gnaw  and 
devour  the  few  fruits  that  we  possess.  Insects,  butter- 
flies especially,  are  very  numerous  here,  and  very  varie- 
gated and  very  large.  Night-moths  are  of  all  colors  and 
of  a  prodigious  size;  they  are  no  less  than  eight  inches  in 
length.  We  live  also  in  the  midst  of  horse-flies  and  mos- 
quitoes; they  come  upon  us  by  thousands  and  give  us  no 
rest  day  nor  night. 


1 68  BUILDINGS    AND    CONQUESTS. 

I  wish  I  could  give  Your  Paternity  an  idea  of  the  archi- 
tecture of  an  Indian  village;  it  is  as  outlandish  as  their 
dancing.  Imagine  a  great  number  of  cabins  and  tents, 
made  of  the  bark  of  trees,  buffalo  skins,  coarse  cloth, 
rushes  and  sods,  all  of  a  mournful  and  funereal  aspect,  of 
all  sizes  and  shapes,  some  supported  by  one  pole,  others 
having  six,  and  with  the  covering  stretched  in  all  the  dif- 
ferent styles  imaginable,  and  all  scattered  here  and  there 
in  the  greatest  confusion,  and  you  will  have  an  Indian 
village. 

We  have  a  fine  little  chapel,  twenty-four  feet  square,  sur- 
mounted with  a  little  belfry;  four  poor  little  cabins  besides, 
made  of  rough  logs;  they  are  fourteen  feet  each  way,  with 
roofs  of  rude  rafters,  which  protect  us  from  neither  rain 
nor  hail,  and  still  less  from  the  snow  in  winter. 

Good  Brother  Mazelli  and  myself  commend  ourselves 
urgently  to  the  holy  sacrifices  and  prayers  of  Your 
Paternity. 


Very  dear  and  Reverend  Father:  ^ 

I  think  I  told  you,  the  first  time  I  wrote  you,  that  I  had 
already  baptized  twenty-two  persons.  To-day  the  number 
of  those  upon  whom  I  have  had  the  consolation  of  conferring 
holy  baptism  amounts  to  seventy-six,  among  whom  I  reckon 
thirty-four  adults  of  ages  from  twelve  to  sixty  years.  I 
am  sure  that  Your  Reverence  would  be  touched  to  see  with 
what  fervor  these  good  Indians  assist  at  the  holy  sacrifice 
and  with  what  docility  they  listen  to  our  instructions.  For 
my  part,  I  assure  you  that  I  see  the  work  of  God  in  it,  and 
that  I  feel  penetrated  with  gratitude  toward  those  who,  by 
their  prayers,  cease  not  to  obtain  for  us  from  heaven  these 
unexpected  successes.  One  of  our  first  conquests  for  Jesus 
Christ  was  the  spouse  of  the  head  chief  of  the  Potawatomi 

^Extract  from  a  letter  to  Father  Verhaegen,  Superior  of  the  Mis- 
sion of  Missouri.  Dated  Potawatomi  Nation,  St.  Joseph  [Mission], 
August  20,  1838.   Translated  from  the  French  and  hitherto  unpublished. 


SOME  HAPPY  EXAMPLES.  169 

nation.  She  enjoys  the  greatest  consideration  among  the 
Indians,  and  I  venture  to  hope  that  her  example  will  have 
a  great  influence  upon  the  rest  of  her  compatriots.  Since 
I  could  not  at  the  beginning  express  myself  with  sufficient 
facility,  I  was  obliged  for  several  weeks  to  make  use  of  an 
interpreter.  As  soon  as  I  found  her  well  enough  instructed 
and  disposed,  I  admitted  her  to  the  sacrament  of  regenera- 
tion, which  she  received  with  all  signs  of  the  liveliest  faith 
and  the  most  ardent  piety.  Eight  other  persons,  who  had 
imitated  her  example,  shared  her  happiness. 

A  short  time  afterward,  on  the  9th  of  August,  a  young 
person  of  eighteen  years  of  age,  who  had  long  been  sick, 
came  over  six  miles  to  find  me.  She  seemed  in  a  state  of 
extreme  exhaustion  when  I  saw  her  in  the  church. 
"  Father,"  she  said,  "  I  have  a  secret  presentiment  that  my 
end  is  near ;  I  know  that  you  are  the  Great  Spirit's  minister, 
and  I  have  made  a  great  effort  today  to  come  and  beg  you  to 
show  me  the  road  that  leads  to  heaven."  I  spent  several 
hours  in  instructing  her  in  the  most  essential  dogmas  of 
our  holy  religion,  and  as  I  found  her  fully  disposed  to  re- 
ceive holy  baptism,  I  thought  it  my  duty  to  bestow  it  upon 
her  at  once.  I  have  never  seen  a  person  so  self-possessed, 
so  modest,  so  deeply  touched  during  the  administration  of 
the  holy  sacrament.  After  the  ceremony,  she  said  to  me : 
**  Oh !  now,  until  my  last  breath,  I  shall  love  the  Great 
Spirit  with  all  my  heart,  and  shall  honor  his  good  Mother 
with  a  daughter's  love.    Oh !  I  am  happy  in  this  moment !  " 

On  the  13th  of  the  same  month,  an  Indian  woman 
brought  me  her  little  child,  who  was  sick,  praying  me  to 
baptize  it.  "Alas !  "  said  the  poor  woman,  "  I  had  another 
son,  and  he  died  without  having  received  this  favor,  and  it 
would  break  my  heart  should  this  one  be  likewise  exiled 
from  the  paradise  of  the  Great  Spirit."  Among  those  whom 
I  have  baptized  are  a  Protestant  lady  and  her  child ;  she  is 
now  one  of  the  most  fervent  of  Catholics ;  all  the  others  are 
Indians  or  half-breeds,  who  do  not  know  even  the  name  of 
our  holy  religion.    There  are  a  few  families  besides  who  are 


I/O  AN    ENCHANTRESS    CONVERTED. 

preparing  to  receive  the  same  favor.  My  companion, 
Reverend  Father  Verreydt,  lately  visited  a  village  belonging 
to  the  mission,  where  they  promised  to  let  him  baptize  all 
the  little  children. 

The  feast  that  we  have  just  been  celebrating  in  honor  of 
the  assumption  of  the  glorious  queen  of  heaven  will  never 
be  forgotten  in  this  mission;  it  was  celebrated  in  a  poor 
wooden  church,  but  I  can  assure  you  that  no  place  in  the 
world  ever  offered  a  more  consoling  spectacle  nor  one  more 
agreeable  to  the  Almighty  and  his  most  holy  mother. 

In  the  afternoon  of  that  day  I  baptized  eleven  adults  and 
a  little  Indian  girl  who  was  sick.  Three  of  these  adults  had 
already  reached  their  fiftieth  year;  five  were  twenty,  and 
three  about  fifteen  years  old.  All  exhibited  during  the  cere- 
mony a  great  deal  of  piety  and  ferv^or.  Afterward  we  sang 
together  several  canticles  to  praise  and  bless  the  Lord's 
mercies.  At  the  close  of  the  ceremony,  four  couples  received 
the  nuptial  benediction  according  to  the  Catholic  rite.  All 
who  were  present  were  so  touched  with  what  they  had  seen 
and  heard  that,  yielding  to  the  grace  of  the  Holy  Spirit, 
they  demanded  urgently  to  be  instructed.  Among  this  num- 
ber was  an  old  Indian  woman  belonging  to  the  great  medi- 
cine band,  who,  as  soon  as  she  reached  home,  immediately 
destroyed  her  medicine  bundle.  Going  toward  evening  to 
visit  a  newly  converted  family,  we  were  agreeably  surprised 
and  edified  to  find  all  the  adults  and  several  others  besides 
assembled  to  recite  in  common  the  most  fervent  prayers,  and 
to  thank  the  Lord  for  the  signal  favors  that  he  had  granted 
them  that  day.  I  cannot  conceal  from  you,  dear  Father, 
that  in  no  circumstances  of  my  life  have  I  ever  felt,  myself, 
more  joy  and  consolation  than  in  this  happy  moment. 


CHAPTER  III. 

DAILY    LIFE    AT    THE    MISSION. 

A  missionary  journal  —  Major  Dougherty  —  Indian  councils  —  Glory 
of  the  warpath  —  Liquor  in  abundance  —  Murder  and  mutilaticn  — 
Sale  of  children  —  Law  ineffective  —  How  the  Indians  spent  $90,000  — 
Colonel  Kearny  —  Protestant  ministers  leaving  —  Peace  mission  to  the 
Sioux, 

Most  dear  Sir:  ^ 

tPJOUR  kind  favors  of  the  6th  of  July  and  the  27th  of 
c^  October  arrived  this  day.  Had  I  known,  dear  friend, 
for  what  port  of  this  vast  continent  you  had  sailed,  I  would 
have  written  long  before  this ;  for  I  am  not  of  that  class  of 
gentry  who  easily  forget  their  real  friends.  No!  your 
family  will  be  ever  dear  to  me,  and  it  will  afford  me  at  all 
times  the  greatest  satisfaction  and  pleasure  to  hear  from 
you,  and  to  know  that  you  are  well  and  prospering.  Not  a 
day  passes,  but  I  pray  the  Lord  for  your  family's  welfare. 
I  keep  a  journal  of  the  most  remarkable  events  which 
take  place  around  us.  They  are  of  a  rather  gloomy  nature, 
disgusting  and  discouraging;  a  short  sketch,  however,  of 
these  I  intend  to  give  you,  and  I  feel  confident  your  regret 
at  having  left  the  Council  Bluffs,  when  being  made  ac- 
quainted with  the  abominations  of  the  place,  will  soon 
vanish. 

May  10.  Mr.  Dougherty  ^  held  a  council  at  Bellevue  with 
the  Pawnees.  An  Iowa  waylaid  a  Pawnee, 
took  his  scalp  and  escaped.    Paid  the  Pawnees 

1  Letter  to  a  "  most  dear  friend,"  dated  Potawatomi  Nation,  Council 
Bluffs,  December,  1839.     Hitherto  unpublished. 

2  John  Dougherty,  a  member  of  Long's  exploring  party  and  for 
many  years  Government  agent  for  the  Pawnees.  Somewhat  famous  in 
his  time  for  having  almost  succeeded  in  rescuing  a  female  captive  who 
had  been  devoted  to  sacrifice  by  that  tribe.  A  brother,  Hannibal,  was 
also  at  this  time  sub-agent  at  Bellevue. 

[171] 


172  TREATIES   AND    TREATS. 

a  hundred  dollars'  worth  in  goods  for  the 
body.  Obtained  the  title  of  a  distinguished 
warrior  among  his  nation. 
May  12.  Majors  Dougherty  and  Davis  held  council  with 
the  Potawatomies  and  proposed  an  exchange 
of  country.  The  Indians  unanimously  re- 
fused to  treat,  and  declared  upon  the  wampum 
belt  (equal  to  an  oath  among  the  whites) 
they  would  not  and  could  not  enter  into  any 
engagements,  a  great  majority  of  their 
brethren  being  absent.  They  expressed  a  de- 
sire to  see  all  former  treaty  stipulations  first 
executed :  they  had  no  confidence  in  a  new 
treaty. 

24.  A  war  party  of  Sauks  discovered  three  lodges  of 

Omahas  on  the  head  waters  of  the  Boyer  con- 
sisting of  nine  men  and  twelve  women.  In- 
vited them  to  a  friendly  smoke ;  accepted,  be- 
lieving them  to  be  Potawatomies.  They  were 
treacherously  murdered  and  their  women 
taken  prisoners.  Danced  nine  days  round  the 
scalp  post  in  the  Sauk  village.  Huzza !  for  the 
Indian  braves. 

25.  Two   Potawatomies   killed  on  the  Chage    [  ?] 

river  in  a  drunken  frolic. 

27.  Three  Potawatomies  drowned  in  the  Missouri, 

supposed  to  be  drunk. 

28.  A  Potawatomie  poisoned  on  the  Mosquito  while 

drunk.  Frequently  the  case. 
30.  Arrival  of  the  steamer  Wilmington  with  pro- 
visions. A  war  of  extermination  appears  pre- 
paring around  the  poor  Potawatomies.  Fifty 
large  cannons  have  been  landed,  ready 
charged  with  the  most  murderous  grape  shot, 
each  containing  thirty  gallons  of  whiskey, 
brandy,  rum  or  alcohol.  The  boat  was  not 
as  yet  out  of  sight  when  the  skirmishes  com- 


ABOUT    NOSES    AND    SQUAWS.  173 

menced.  After  the  fourth,  fifth  and  sixth 
discharges,  the  confusion  became  great  and 
appalHng,  In  all  directions,  men,  women  and 
children  were  seen  tottering  and  falling;  the 
war-whoop,  the  merry  Indian's  song,  cries, 
savage  roarings,  formed  a  chorus.  Quarrel 
succeeded  quarrel.  Blows  followed  blows. 
The  club,  the  tomahawk,  spears,  butcher 
knives,  brandished  together  in  the  air. 
Strange!  astonishing!  only  one  man,  in  this 
dreadful  affray,  was  drowned  in  the  Missouri, 
another  severely  stabbed,  and  several  noses 
lost.  The  prominent  point,  as  you  well 
know,  the  Potawatomies  particularly  aim  at 
when  well  corned. 

I  shuddered  at  the  deed.  A  squaw  offered  her 
little  boy  four  years  old,  to  the  crew  of  the 
boat  for  a  few  bottles  of  whiskey. 

I  know  from  good  authority,  that  upwards  of 
eighty  barrels  of  whiskey  are  on  the  line  ready 
to  be  brought  in  at  the  payment. 

No  agent  here  seems  to  have  the  power  to  put 
the  laws  in  execution. 
May  31.  Drinking  all  day.  Drunkards  by  the  dozen.  In- 
dians are  selling  horses,  blankets,  guns,  their 
all,  to  have  a  lick  at  the  cannon.  Four  dol- 
lars a  bottle !  Plenty  at  that  price ! !  Detest- 
able traffic. 
June  3.  A  woman  with  child,  mother  of  four  young  chil- 
dren, was  murdered  this  morning  near  the  is- 
sue-house. Her  body  presented  the  most 
horrible  spectacle  of  savage  cruelty;  she  was 
literally  cut  up. 
4.  Burial  of  the  unhappy  woman.  Among  the  pro- 
visions placed  in  her  grave  were  several  bot- 
tles of  whiskey.  A  good  idea  if  all  had  been 
buried  with  her. 


174  MURDERS  AND  SCALDINGS. 

June  5.  A  drunken  Potawatomi  killed  a  Sauk.  The 
murderer,  after  the  perpetration  of  the  deed, 
was  mortally  stabbed  by  his  own  father-in- 
law.      Indian  way  of  redressing  wrongs. 

6.  Rumor.     Four  lowas,  three  Potawatomies,  one 

Kickapoo  are  said  to  have  been  killed  in 
drunken  frolics. 

7.  Attempt  at  murder.     A  Potawatomi  was  dis- 

covered endeavoring  to  kill  his  aunt,  our  next 
neighbor.  Timely  assistance,  a  knock  down, 
prevented  him. 

II.  Another  bluff  accident.  Severe  scalding.  An 
Iowa  drew  his  knife  to  stab  a  companion, 
when  another  friend,  without  the  least  cere- 
mony or  hesitation,  poured  over  the  ag- 
gressor's head  a  full  kettle  of  boiling  soup. 
The  unhappy  man  escaped  death,  lost  his  hair 
only,  and  presents  a  melancholy  appearance 
amongst  his  kindred. 

19.  A  monster  in  human  shape.  On  the  Mosquito 
[Creek],  a  savage  returning  home  from  a 
night's  debauch,  wrested  his  infant  son  from 
the  breast  of  his  mother  and  crushed  him 
against  a  post  of  his  lodge. 

17.  Tekchabc,  another  Mosquito  Potawatomi,  shot 

an  Indian  through  the  thigh  merely  for  the 
pleasure  of  killing,  and  finished  the  unhappy 
man  with  the  butt  of  his  gun;  pounding  the 
head  literally  to  atoms.  The  nephew  of  the 
murdered  individual,  as  a  matter  of  course, 
stole  up  to  Tekchabe's  camp,  found  him  lying 
down  apparently  composing  himself  to  sleep 
and  shot  him  instantly  through  the  head. 
This  whole  affair  was  settled  within  twenty 
minutes'  time. 

18.  Arrival  of  a  sub-agent,  Mr.  Cowper.    His  pres- 

ence seems  to  keep   the  whiskey  sellers   in 


DRAGOONS    AND    DRUNKARDS.  I75 

some  awe,  "  Don't  know  what  he  might  or 
will  do."  Secure  the  liquor  in  cages.  The 
many  murders  committed  act  powerfully  upon 
the  minds  of  the  Indians.  They  begged  the 
agent  in  council  to  prevent  the  poison  being 
brought  among  them. 

June  20.  A  young  brother  of  McPherson  killed  the  as- 
sistant blacksmith  of  the  Potawatomies,  a 
Mr.  Case,  an  old  man;  shot  him  through  the 
head.     Got  clear  at  the  court  in  Liberty. 

July  6.  A  company  of  dragoons  from  Fort  Leaven- 
worth arrived  at  Bellevue  with  the  Omaha 
women  whom  the  Sauks  had  surrendered  to 
them,  and  delivered  them  over  to  their  re- 
lations. Three  of  the  dragoons,  in  crossing 
the  Platte  opposite  the  Otoe  village  were 
drowned. 

Aug.        4.  Arrival  of  the  Antelope.    More  whiskey  landed. 

6.  An   encounter   lately   took   place   between   the 

Omahas  and  Sioux ;  originating  in  the  steal- 
ing of  a  few  horses  by  the  latter.  About  forty 
are  said  to  have  been  slain  on  both  sides. 

7.  The  son  of  the  prophet  of  the  Kickapoos  killed 

the  blacksmith  of  the  nation.  It  is  rumored 
that  the  white  man  was  the  aggressor. 

8.  Arrival  of  the  St.  Peter's  with  the  annuities. 

19.  Annuities   $90,000.      Divided   to   the   Indians. 

Great  gala.  Wonderful  scrapings  of  traders 
to  obtain  their  Indian  credits. 

20.  Since  the  day  of  payment,  drunkards  are  seen 

and  heard  in  all  places.  Liquor  is  rolled  out 
to  the  Indians  by  whole  barrels ;  sold  even  by 
white  men  even  in  the  presence  of  the  agent. 
Wagon  loads  of  the  abominable  stuff  arrive 
daily  from  the  settlements,  and  along  with  it 
the  very  dregs  of  our  white  neighbors  and 
voyageurs    of    the    mountains,     drunkards, 


1/6         KEARNY  TAKES  THEM  IN  HAND. 

gamblers,  etc.,  etc.  Three  horses  have  been 
brought  to  the  ground  and  killed  with  axes. 
Two  more  noses  were  bit  off,  and  a  score  of 
other  horrible  mutilations  have  taken  place. 
One  has  been  murdered.  Two  women  are 
dangerously  ill  of  bad  usage. 

Sept.  15.  Colonel  Kearny  arrived  at  Bellevue  with  200 
dragoons.  Held  council  with  the  lowas. 
Took  four  prisoners  among  the  most  distin- 
guished for  depredations  on  their  white  neigh- 
bors and  missionaries.  Preparations  were 
made  to  whip  them.  The  colonel  reluctantly 
pardoned  them  at  the  intercession  of  their 
new  agent,  Mr.  Hamilton,  and  after  having 
previously  consulted  with  experienced  gentle- 
men living  in  this  neighborhood.  The  Otoes 
came  to  the  council  in  battle  array,  bows 
strung  and  arrows  in  hand,  apparently  ready 
for  a  blow.  The  manly  conduct  of  the  colo- 
nel, accompanied  by  great  prudence  and  a 
great  presence  of  mind,  kept  them  in  awe.  I 
observed  several  chiefs  tremble  and  stutter 
as  they  stood  before  him.  Many  who  knew 
them  well  thought  that  great  mischief  was 
brewing. 
A  few  days  later,  the  son  of  old  Pipestone  was 
treacherously  killed  by  a  party  of  young  men 
of  his  own  nation.  He  had  dared  to  make 
allusion  in  open  council  to  the  misconduct 
of  the  prisoners.  *  *  *  In  a  difference 
among  themselves  they  burned  most  of  their 
earthen  wigwams.    Otoes  as  bad  as  ever. 

Oct.  15.  Saw  Mr.  Merrill;  looked  very  pale  and  sickly; 
was  about  selling  out  and  removing.  The 
Otoe  blacksmith,  Mr.  Gilmore,  left  the  Otoe 
station.  Mr.  Keis  intends  likewise  to  remove 
within  the  settlements.     Made  an  improve- 


A    SORRY    MESS    ON    THE    WHOLE.  1^7 

ment  already  on  the  Nishnabotna.  Messrs. 
Allis,  Curtis^  and  Dunbar  are  still  in  Bellevue, 
waiting  for  their  respective  tlocks  to  become 
more  steady  and  to  settle  permanently. 

In  the  beginning  of  last  November,  two  young  Potawato- 
mies,  a  grandson  of  old  Blackfoot  (who  died  last  summer) 
and  a  son  of  old  Miami,  were  killed  on  the  head  waters  of 
the  Des  Moines.  Not  ascertained  as  yet  whether  the  party 
were  Sauks,  lowas,  or  Santees  of  the  St.  Peters  river.  Mr. 
\  Caldwell  and  family,  P.  Le  Clair,  the  families  La  Framboise 
I  are  all  doing  very  well  at  present.  There  has  been  a  great 
deal  of  sickness  among  the  nation.  I  do  not  think  that  any- 
body escaped  the  fever.  I  had  my  first  trial  of  it,  *  *  * 
Mr.  Harden's  family  well  except  little  David  who  for  some 
time  past  has  been  much  subject  to  fits  and  fever.  He  is 
somewhat  improving  at  present.  Mrs,  Scugin  and  her  son 
Ramsay,  Miss  Henrietta,  Messrs.  Dick  and  Allen  are  below 
at  Westport. 

Dear  friend,  from  the  above  statement  you  may  easily 
gather,  that  our  prospects  are  not  so  very  bright  and  flatter- 
ing, surrounded  as  we  are  by  so  many  evils  and  obstacles, 
which  all  our  efforts  to  the  contrary  are  not  able  to  stem. 
Indians  are  weak,  laws  disregarded,  money  a  powerful  temp- 
tation for  the  wicked  white  man  and  half-breed.  We  have 
not  lost  courage,  however;  a  short  sketch  of  our  little  mis- 
sion will  show  that  our  endeavors  have  not  been  altogether 
fruitless  and  unavailing.  We  performed  the  ceremonies  of 
marriage  for  twenty-three  couples  who  have  so  far  remained 
very  steady  and  promised  to  remain  so  till  death  will  part 
them  for  better  or  for  worse.  We  baptized  in  all  242,  among 
whom  were  upward  of  eighty  adults,  most  of  them  half- 
breeds  and  some  Indians.  Forty  have  been  admitted  already 
to  the  Lord's  Supper.     Some  I  must  own  have  slackened, 

^  See  previous  note,  page   154.     "  Mr.   Curtis  could   preach   a   good 
sermon   and   probably   would   be   useful    in  the   states,   where   all   was 
pleasant  and  agreeable,  but  did  not  succeed  with  the  Indians." — Allis. 
12 


178  SONGFUL    WARRIORS. 

attracted  by  the  bad  examples  and  occasions  which  surround 
them.  Our  chapel  is  tolerably  well  attended  on  Sundays. 
Most  of  the  Indians  are  absent,  being  on  their  hunting  ex- 
peditions.    *      *  * 

I  made  a  trip  last  summer  to  the  Sioux  country,  visited 
the  Yanktons  and  Santees,  joined  two  couples  in  lawful 
wedlock,  baptized  three  adults  and  twenty-six  children.  1 
invited  them  in  the  names  of  our  chiefs  to  come  and  smoke 
the  calumet  with  them,  and,  while  I  write  to  you,  we  have 
forty  of  them  in  our  bluffs,  and  of  their  bravest  warriors^, 
caroling  together  with  the  Potawatomies,  and  behaving  to- 
wards each  other  like  true  brethren  and  friends.  Last  night 
they  honored  us  with  their  great  pipe-dance,  and  gave  a 
serenade  before  every  wigwam  and  cabin.  They  appeared 
to  be  very  much  pleased  with  all  the  people  here. 

I  would  have  wished  to  have  entered  into  many  more  par- 
ticulars, but  Pascal  Miller  [  ?]  is  waiting  with  impatience  for 
my  letter.  *  *  *  He  leaves  for  the  fort.  More  news,  and 
better,  I  hope,  by  the  next  occasion.  Remember  me  in  your 
good  prayers  to  the  Lord.  A  kiss  to  my  little  dear  Clarissa 
and  to  your  son.  *  *  *  y[y  \)Qc,i  respects  to  your  good 
lady.  *  *  *  Please  remember  me  to  the  honorable  Dr. 
James,^  the  true  father  and  friend  to  the  Indian.  Father 
Verreydt,  Mr.  Caldwell,  and  Mr.  Hardy's  family  send  their 
best  love  to  you.    Farewell. 

■*  Possibly  Edwin  James,  scientific  member  and  historiographer  of 
Long's  expedition;  who  had  previous  to  this  time  been  agent  to  the 
Potawatomies. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

EXCURSION  TO  THE  SIOUX   COUNTRY.* 

First  knowledge  of  the  Sioux  —  Nicollet  and  Fremont  —  Acrobatic 
explorations  —  Notes  on  the  country  —  Loss  of  vessel  with  mission 
supplies  —  Lights  and  shadows  of  life  among  the  natives  —  Surrepti- 
tious baptism  of  children  —  Blackbird,  the  great  Omaha  chief  —  The 
recent  smallpox  epidemic  —  Honorable  reception  among  the  Yankton 
Sioux  —  Return  downstream  in  a  canoe  —  First  experience  of  out-door 
life. 

/^N  the  29th  of  April  I  went  on  board  the  American  Com- 
^^  pany's  steamboat,  which  makes  every  year  the  voyage 
from  St.  Louis  to  the  Yellowstone  river  to  furnish  the  In- 
dians of  those  countries  with  whatever  they  need  and  bring 
down  their  furs  in  return.  The  year  1839  has  been  a  very 
favorable  one:  they  have  obtained  about  45,000  buffalo 
robes,  besides  an  immense  number  of  skins  of  deer,  elk,  ante- 
lope, beaver,  otter,  wildcats,  etc.  To  my  great  joy  I  found 
on  board  the  celebrated  Mr.  Nicollet,^  whom  I  had  had  the 
honor  of  knowing  for  a  long  time.  He  is  a  French  mathe- 
matician, well  known  in  his  own  country,  and  I  think  in  Bel- 
gium too,  by  literary  men.  This  respectable  gentleman  has 
been  traveling  in  the  United  States  for  seven  or  eight  years. 

1  Fragmental  journal  in  French  of  voyage  of  Father  De  Smet  in  1839, 
from  Council  Blufifs  to  the  Sioux  country.     Hitherto  unpublished. 

2  Jean  Nicolas  Nicollet,  born  Cluses,  Savoy,  July  24,  1786.  Came  to 
United  States,  1832,  to  study  physical  geography  of  North  America. 
Explored  the  southern  states  and  the  great  basin  of  the  Red,  Arkansas 
and  Missouri  rivers.  In  1836  to  sources  of  the  Mississippi.  Determined 
position  and  elevation  of  many  important  points,  and  collected  history 
and  dialects  of  Indian  nations  and  productions  and  natural  history  of 
the  country.  On  his  return  to  Washington  he  was  engaged  by  the 
War  Department  to  visit  the  far  west  and  make  a  map  and  reports. 
He  died  in  Washington  September  11,  1843.  See  letters  from  him, 
pp.  IS49  and  1552. 

[179] 


l8o  FACILIS    DESCENSUS. 

At  present  he  is  making  a  scientific  excursion  upon  the  up- 
per Missouri,  as  he  did  last  year  to  the  sources  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi and  its  tributaries.  He  is  accompanied  by  an  Ameri- 
can heutenant  [Fremont],  a  German  botanist  [Charles  A. 
Geyer],  very  distinguished  and  tireless  in  his  researches, 
and  several  guides.  His  works  will  be  a  treasure  for  the 
literary  world.  He  is  a  very  deeply  learned  man,  and  a 
solid  Catholic  at  the  same  time,  who  examines  his  subject  on 
the  spot  and  spares  neither  time  nor  pains  nor  his  purse  to 
go  to  the  bottom  of  the  matters  he  writes  upon.  He  made 
me  a  present  of  several  instruments,  thermometers,  barom- 
eters, compass,  etc.,  to  take  observations  during  the  sum- 
rner,  to  aid  those  he  was  making  in  the  upper  country. 

The  water  of  the  river  was  very  low  and  the  snags  and 
sand-bars  very  numerous  everywhere,  so  our  progress  was 
slow  and  we  had  plenty  of  opportunities  to  make  excursions 
in  the  woods  and  prairies  and  over  the  hills  in  search  of 
minerals,  petrifactions  and  rare  and  new  plants,  which 
abound  in  those  regions.  In  a  walk  of  this  kind  which  I 
was  taking  with  the  botanist,  he  led  me  to  the  top  of  a  hill 
300  feet  high.  The  path  up  which  we  went  was  quite  prac- 
ticable, but  our  descent  in  another  place  was  different.  I 
followed  him,  thinking  that  I  could  go  where  he  had  gone, 
but  almost  the  first  step  I  took,  the  slippery  earth  gave  way 
under  my  feet,  and  I  made  a  third  of  the  descent  at  railroad 
speed.  It  seemed  dangerous  and  impossible  to  return  by  the 
way  I  had  come,  and  I  found  that  the  rest  of  the  hillside  was 
still  steeper.  Hung  up  there  200  feet  above  the  river, 
I  did  not  find  myself  very  well  fixed  for  meditation  or 
reflection.  But  I  took  careful  measures  and  partly  by  jump- 
ing from  rock  to  rock  and  crawling  from  shrub  to  shrub, 
and  partly  on  my  hind-quarters  without  regard  to  my 
breeches,  which  felt  this  treatment  deeply,  I  reached  terra 
Urnia  in  safety.  There  the  lover  of  Flora  was  already  wait- 
ing for  me,  and  being  highly  pleased  with  his  discoveries 
he  told  me  "  that  he  did  not  think  there  was  any  pleasure 
on  earth  to  be  compared  to  an  excursion  of  this  kind."    He 


THINGS    SEEN    ALONG    THE    MISSOURI.  l8l 

was  unconscious  of  the  capers  that  I  had  been  cutting.  I 
answered  him  in  German  "  that  I  had  found  the  promenade 
fearfully  pleasant."  But  I  took  good  care  afterwards  not 
to  follow  Mister  Florist  except  on  flat  country. 

In  the  country  of  the  Omahas  I  crossed  a  prairie  three 
miles  in  width,  full  of  onions  of  the  size  of  a  marble  and 
very  excellent  for  eating.  In  another  we  found  a  great 
deal  of  asparagus  of  the  size  of  your  thumb,  which  sup- 
plied the  passengers  for  four  days.  Everywhere  there  was 
abundance  of  strawberries,  blackberries,  gooseberries  and 
plums,  nuts  of  various  kinds,  cherries  and  grapes:  the 
fruit  of  the  red  and  black  thorn  also  appeared  to  be  quite 
plentiful. 

The  marks  which  particularly  .characterize  the  immense 
Missouri  are :  its  muddy  water,  thin  [Icgcr]  and  wholesome, 
and  its  swift  and  winding  current,  Hned  with  islands  of 
various  sizes  formed  by  the  sediment  brought  down  by 
the  stream,  and  the  aspect  of  which  changes  continually. 
Its  course  is  between  two  banks  which  now  traverse  a 
level  plain  of  either  forest  or  prairie,  containing  perhaps 
thousands  of  acres  and  rising  ten,  twenty  or  thirty  feet 
above  the  water,  and  now  rise  majestically  from  its  edge 
to  a  height  of  300  to  400  feet,  with  promontories  which, 
when  the  mists  of  evening  descend  upon  the  landscape, 
make  the  impression  of  lofty  mountains  seen  at  a  distance. 
These  hills  lie  along  both  banks  of  the  river  at  a  distance 
of  six  to  fifteen  miles.  The  windings  of  the  river  present 
lovely  views  every  moment,  but  the  regular  succession  of 
blufifs  and  bottoms  give  such  a  sameness  to  the  country 
that  unless  one  were  very  familiar  with  the  region  he  could 
never  tell  in  which  one  of  a  dozen  precisely  similar  spots 
he  found  himself.  The  Author  of  nature  seems  to  have 
chosen  to  divert  himself  by  repeating  over  and  over  the 
first  forms  that  he  applied  to  this  charming  and  fertile 
land. 

All  the  countr)^  as  you  ascend  the  river  seems  evidently 
to  be  of  volcanic  formation.     In  several  places  moreover 


1 82  JAMES    BRIDGER    AND    CHARLES    GEYZEL. 

you  can  see  stearti  and  sulphurous  flames  escaping  from 
the  bosom  of  the  earth.  I  learned  from  a  traveler  who 
has  been  all  over  this  region  for  a  number  of  years,  that 
subterranean  noises  are  often  heard,  resembling  those  of 
volcanic  districts. 


Very  kind  Mother:  ^ 

I  received  your  letter  of  March  13th,  with  all  your  good 
news  of  Termonde,  even  that  Charles  Geyzel  is  made 
Vicar.  Doubtless  he  will  be  a  good  vicar.  All  your  com- 
munications give  me  great  pleasure  and  consolation.  I  do 
not  forget  my  native  place.  Continue,  therefore,  to  send 
me  very  frequently  the  most  minute  details.  All  that  a 
Termontois  can  learn  of  that  point  of  the  globe,  even 
when  he  finds  himself  in  an  American  desert,  2,000  miles 
away,  amid  Indians  and  wild  beasts,  is  always  charming  to 
him.  Indeed,  the  reception  of  your  letter  was  a  hohday 
for  me. 

What  shall  I  say  to  you,  Mother,  on  all  that  you  write 
me  of  the  present  state  of  your  house,  and  of  the  good 
Marolles  whom  the  Lord  destines  to  take  care  of  so  many 
poor  and  miserable,  under  the  direction  of  your  worthy 
director?  Ah!  I  assure  you,  I  bless  God  for  it,  in  the  sin- 
cerity of  my  heart.  If  he  deigns  to  hear  me,  he  will  keep 
you  all,  your  orphan  boys  and  girls,  your  old  men  and 
your  children,  beneath  his  powerful  and  holy  grace.  It  is 
my  ardent  and  daily  prayer  before  the  altar. 

I  thank  you  all,  teachers  and  pupils,  that  you  do  not 
forget  me,  above  all,  in  your  prayers.  I  hope  you  will 
continue  to  implore  the  Blessed  Virgin  to  protect  our  poor 

8  Written  to  the  Superior  of  the  Orphanage  of  Termonde.  Sent  by 
her  in  December,  1856,  to  the  editor  of  the  Precis  Historiques,  Brus- 
sels, at  the  latter's  request  and  with  Father  De  Smet's  permission,  and 
published  as  letter  XXVIII  of  the  Cinquante  Nouvelles  Letters,  XXV 
of  the  Western  Missions  and  Missionaries.  Dated  Potawatomi  Nation, 
St.  Joseph  [Mission],  July,  1838.     The  date  should  be  1839. 


AN    AFFLICTING    LOSS.  1 83 

missions,  and  obtain  for  us,  from  her  Divine  Son,  who  can 
refuse  her  naught,  the  grace  and  strength  necessary  to 
overcome  the  numerous  obstacles  which  separate  the 
savage  from  the  path  of  salvation. 

You  no  doubt  expect  a  little  recital  from  the  depth  of 
our  wilderness.  Well,  I  will  exhibit  to  you  the  light  and 
the  shade.  It  is  just  that  you  who  pray  so  much  for  us 
should  know  somewhat  of  the  exact  state  of  our  affairs. 
Your  prayers  for  us,  I  am  sure,  will,  if  possible,  increase 
in  fervor. 

First  I  will  narrate  to  you  the  great  loss  that  we  ex- 
perienced towards  the  end  of  April.  Our  Superior  sent 
us,  from  St.  Louis,  goods  to  the  amount  of  $500,  in  orna- 
ments for  the  church,  a  tabernacle,  a  bell,  and  provisions 
and  clothes  for  a  year.  I  had  been  for  a  long  time  without 
shoes,  and  from  Easter  we  were  destitute  of  supplies.  All 
the  Potawatomi  nation  were  suffering  from  scarcity,  hav- 
ing only  acorns  and  a  few  wild  roots  for  their  whole  stock 
of  food.  At  last,  about  the  20th  of  April,  they  announced 
to  us  that  the  much-desired  boat  was  approaching.  Al- 
ready we  saw  it  from  the  highest  of  our  hills.  I  procured, 
without  delay,  two  carts  to  go  for  our  baggage.  I  reached 
there  in  time  to  witness  a  very  sad  sight.  The  vessel  had 
struck  on  a  sawyer,  was  pierced,  and  rapidly  sinking  in  the 
waves.^  The  confusion  that  reigned  in  the  boat  was  great, 
but  happily  no  lives  were  lost.  The  total  damage  was 
valued  at  $40,000.  All  the  provisions  forwarded  by  Gov- 
ernment to  the  savages  were  on  board  of  her.  Of  our 
effects,  four  articles  were  saved:  a  plough,  a  saw,  a  pair 
of  boots  and  some  wine.  Providence  was  still  favorable 
to  us.    With  the  help  of  the  plough,  we  were  enabled  to 

4  This  must  have  been  the  annual  boat  of  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany to  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone.  The  name  cannot  be  identified 
from  the  "List  of  Steamboat  Wrecks  on  the  Missouri  River,"  in  the 
Annual  Report  of  the  Missouri  River  Commission  for  1897.  From  the 
preceding  fragment  the  boat  would  seem  to  have  been  raised. 


184  ABOUT    THE    LIQUOR    TRADE. 

plant  a  large  field  of  corn ;  it  was  the  season  for  furrowing. 
We  are  using  the  saw  to  build  a  better  house  and  enlarge 
our  church,  already  too  small.  With  my  boots  I  can  walk 
in  the  woods  and  prairies  without  fear  of  being  bitten  by 
the  serpents  which  throng  there.  And  the  wine  permits  us 
to  offer  to  God  every  day  the  most  holy  sacrifice  of  the 
mass,  a  privilege  that  had  been  denied  us  during  a  long 
time.  We  therefore  returned  with  courage  and  resigna- 
tion to  the  acorns  and  roots  until  the  30th  of  May.  That 
day  another  boat  arrived.  By  that  same  steamer,  I  re- 
ceived news  from  you,  as  well  as  a  letter  from  my  family 
and  from  the  good  Carmelite  superior. 

Our  congregation  already  amounts  to  about  300. 
At  Easter  we  had  fifty  candidates  for  the  first  com- 
munion. I  recommend,  in  a  very  special  manner,  these 
poor  Indians,  that  they  maintain  their  fervor.  The  dan- 
gers and  scandals  which  surround  them  are  very  great.  I 
have  remarked  in  one  of  my  preceding  letters  that  one  of 
the  principal  obstacles  to  the  conversion  of  the  savages  is 
drinking.  The  last  boat  brought  them  a  quantity  of 
liquors.  Already  fourteen  among  them  are  cut  to  pieces 
in  the  most  barbarous  manner,  and  are  dead.  A  father 
seized  his  own  child  by  the  legs  and  crushed  it,  in  the 
presence  of  its  mother,  by  dashing  it  against  the  post  of 
his  lodge.  Two  others  most  cruelly  murdered  an  Indian 
woman,  a  neighbor  of  ours,  and  mother  of  four  children. 
We  live  in  the  midst  of  the  most  disgusting  scenes. 

The  passion  of  the  savages  for  strong  drink  is  incon- 
ceivable. They  give  horses,  blankets,  all,  in  a  word,  to 
have  a  little  of  this  brutalizing  liquid.  Their  drunkenness 
only  ceases  when  they  have  nothing  more  to  drink.  Some 
of  our  neophytes  have  not  been  able  to  resist  this  terrible 
torrent,  and  have  allowed  themselves  to  be  drawn  into  it. 
I  wrote  an  energetic  letter  to  the  Government  against 
these  abominable  traffickers.  Join  your  prayers  to  our  ef- 
forts to  obtain  from  Heaven  the  cessation  of  this  frightful 


TO    HEAVEN    WITHOUT    SUSPECTING    IT.  1 85 

commerce,  which  is  the  misery  of  the  savages  in  every 
relation.^ 

I  visit  the  Indians  in  their  wigwams,  either  as  a  mis- 
sionary, if  they  are  disposed  to  hsten  to  me,  or  as  a  phy- 
sician to  see  their  sick.  When  I  find  a  Httle  child  in  great 
danger,  and  I  perceive  the  parents  have  no  desire  to  hear 
the  word  of  God,  I  spread  out  my  vials:  I  recommend  my 
medicines  strongly.  I  first  bathe  the  child  with  a  little 
camphor;  then  taking  some  baptismal  water,  I  baptize  it 
without  their  suspecting  it  —  and  thus  I  have  opened  the 
gate  of  heaven  to  a  great  number,  notwithstanding  the 
^viles  of  hell  to  hinder  them  from  entering. 

During  the  winter  a  chief  of  a  neighboring  nation 
brought  me  his  child,  attacked  with  a  very  dangerous 
malady;  it  only  had  a  breath  of  life  remaining.  The  father 
asked  medicine  from  me.  I  gave  him  to  understand  that  his 
child  was  past  recovery,  but  that  I  had  the  means  of  ren- 
dering it,  after  death,  the  happiest  of  his  nation.  I  ex- 
plained to  him  the  favors  arising  from  the  sacrament  of 
baptism.  The  chief,  quite  delighted,  offered  me  his  son 
in  order  to  secure  its  happiness,  and  the  child  died  on  the 
following  day. 

I  might  cite  you  a  great  number  of  other  consoling 
traits  with  which  Heaven  favors  us,  but  my  sheet  is  too 
small  to  allow  of  it. 

I  will  consecrate  this  last  page  to  a  description  of  the 
principal  incidents  of  my  excursion  of  360  miles  farther 
into  the  Indian  Territories,  through  the  country  of  the 
Omahas,  and  in  the  immense  tract  of  country  occupied  by 
the  Sioux. 

The  object  of  this  journey  was  to  afTord  the  benefit  of 

5  Father  De  Smet  here  touches  upon  one  of  the  greatest  evils  that 
has  characterized  the  relations  of  the  white  man  with  the  Indian  under 
the  United  States  Government,  from  the  beginning  until  very  recent 
times.  In  spite  of  all  its  efforts  the  Government  was  never  able  to 
suppress  what  the  author  very  justly  describes  as  an  "abominable 
traffic." 


1 86  FRESH    FIELDS   AND    PASTURES    NEW. 

baptism  to  some  children,  to  give  adults  some  ideas  of 
our  holy  religion,  and  to  establish  a  durable  and  advan- 
tageous peace  between  the  two  nations.  Our  savages  have 
lived,  during  the  last  two  years,  in  a  terrible  dread  of  this 
numerous  and  wadike  nation;  lately,  also,  two  of  our 
people  had  been  massacred. 

I  embarked  on  the  Missouri,  the  29th  of  April,  [1839] 
in  a  steamboat  [the  St.  Peter's].  I  met  on  board,  to  my 
great  joy,  two  old  friends:  the  one  a  French  mathemati- 
cian, Mr.  Nicollet,  a  very  learned  and  pious  man;  the 
other,  Mr.  [Chas.  A.]  Geyer,  a  German.  These  gentle- 
men are  making  a  scientific  excursion  of  4,500  miles  into 
the  Indian  countries.  The  waters  of  the  river  were  low; 
the  sand-banks  and  the  sawyers  very  numerous  and 
difficult  to  pass;  the  winds  strong  and  contrary.  Our 
progress  was  very  slow.  We  had  many  an  opportunity  to 
make  excursions  in  the  woods  and  prairies,  searching  for 
new  minerals,  which  abound  in  these  wilds,  and  rare  and 
curious  plants,  among  which  we  made  some  beautiful  dis- 
coveries. I  thought  of  you,  my  good  mother,  when  I 
found  myself  in  those  beautiful  parterres.  I  imagined  once 
for  an  instant,  that  you  were  there,  with  your  children.  I 
heard  your  exclamations  :  ""  Potten,  potten,  kinder  en!  Wei, 
wel!  *  *  *  Duj-  r-ijji  schoone  bloemen!  Wie  sonde 
het  konnen  gelooven?  *  *  *  Maar  ziet,  maar  ziet!  *  *  * 
Komt  hier,  moeder;  hier  heb  ik  eene  schoone/'  ^  etc.,  etc. 
Indeed  it  was  truly  the  most  beautiful  view  one  could 
fancy.  When  the  bell  called  us  back  to  the  steamer,  I 
quitted  those  little  parks  of  wild  flowers  with  much  diffi- 
culty. I  gathered  a  great  number  of  plants  which  I  pre- 
served in  my  herbal.  We  passed  over  several  spots  where 
there  were  only  onions,  round,  and  about  as  large  as  the 
marbles  children  use  for  play,  but  excellent  for  eating.  In 
another  place  we  gathered  a  great  quantity  of  asparagus, 

8  "  Children,  get  some  vases !  Well,  well !  Those  are  pretty  flow- 
ers! Who  would  have  thought  it?  Just  look!  Here,  Mother,  here 
is  a  pretty  one." 


THE    FIRST    OMAHA    POLITICIAN.  1 8/ 

as  thick  as  a  man's  thumb.  All  the  passengers  of  the 
steamboat  regaled  themselves  with  it  during  four  days.  I 
will  tell  you  nothing  of  our  little  encounters  with  the 
wolves  and  the  serpents;  that  would  dispel  the  charm. 

On  the  route,  I  instructed  and  baptized,  on  the  vessel, 
a  woman  with  her  three  children,  and  heard  the  confes- 
sions of  a  great  number  of  Canadian  voyageurs,  who  were 
going  to  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

A  tomb  attracts  attention  in  these  regions;  it  is  the 
tomb  of  Blackbird,  the  great  chief  of  the  Omahas.  This 
chief  became  celebrated  by  the  ascendancy  which  he  pos- 
sessed over  his  nation;  he  was  an  object  of  terror  and  re- 
spect to  his  people,  for  they  believed  that  he  could  control 
life  and  death.  The  origin  of  their  belief  is  as  follows:  he 
had  procured  a  large  quantity  of  arsenic,  by  the  aid  of  a 
trader;  the  latter  at  the  same  time  instructed  him  in  the 
method  of  using  it;  but  the  wretch  soon  received  his 
recompense.  Blackbird  invited  him  to  dine  with  him  on 
a  day  appointed,  and  adroitly  administered  to  him  a  good 
dose  of  his  terrible  medicine.  The  trader,  to  the  great 
pleasure  of  his  host,  died  some  hours  after,  in  frightful 
torments. 

Proud  of  his  attempt.  Blackbird  soon  meditated  a  per- 
fidious blow,  and  made  great  preparation  for  its  execution. 
He  dispatched  a  party  of  his  people  to  the  chase,  so  as  to 
kill  some  deer  and  buffalo  for  his  banquet.  The  principal 
warriors  and  the  minor  chiefs  had  become  jealous  of  the 
ascendancy  that  the  great  chief  exercised  for  some  time 
over  the  nation.  Blackbird,  informed  of  their  discon- 
tent and  murmurs,  invited  to  his  feast  every  one  of  his 
warriors  who  had  murmured.  He  lavished  his  attentions 
upon  them,  and  showed  the  most  distinguished  marks  of 
cordiality  to  his  guests,  wishing  apparently  to  be  recon- 
ciled with  them,  and  to  efface  the  bad  impression  that  his 
hard-heartedness  and  haughty  bearing  had  caused.  As 
soon  as  each  one  had  emptied  his  plate,  and  the  poison 
had  begun  to  act  on  some,  he  threw  off  the  mask,  and 


1 88  BLACKBIRD    AND    FLOYD. 

began  to  harangue  them  on  the  great  power  of  his  mani- 
tou  or  genius  which  guided  him,  and,  brandishing  his 
tomahawk  in  triumph,  bade  them,  with  sarcasm  and  bitter- 
ness, "  to  intone  their  death  songs,  if  any  warlike  blood 
yet  circled  in  their  veins;"  adding  with  the  accent  of 
revenge  "  that  before  the  sun's  rising  "  —  it  was  night  — 
"  the  vultures  would  fly  above  their  wigwams,  and  that 
their  wives  and  children  would  mourn  over  their  lifeless 
corpses."  It  was  a  night  of  confusion,  tears,  fear  and 
tumult.    No  one  escaped  the  poison! 

The  whole  life  of  this  man  was  a  chain  of  crimes  and 
cruelties.  Tired  of  "  pouring  out  blood  "  as  the  Indians 
say,  or  rather  pursued  by  remorse  and  despair,  he  allowed 
himself  to  die  with  hunger.  Before  expiring,  he  gave 
orders  to  his  faithful  warriors  to  bury  him  on  the  highest 
of  the  hills,  an  elevation  of  300  feet,  seated  on  his  most 
beautiful  courser,  facing  the  impetuous  Missouri  —  "  so 
that,"  said  he,  "  I  can  salute  all  the  voyageurs."  His  tomb 
resembles  a  little  hillock.  It  is  surmounted  by  a  pole,  to 
which  the  Indians  attach  a  flag.  It  can  be  easily  distin- 
guished eighteen  miles  offJ 

Our  boat  passed  near  the  village  of  the  Omahas,  com- 
posed of  about  1,400  souls.  It  is  situated  at  the  extremity 
of  a  beautiful  prairie,  about  three  miles  in  extent,  at  the 
foot  of  a  little  range  of  hills.  No  one  came  to  the  shore 
to  see  us  pass, —  fearing,  it  seems,  that  the  smallpox  was 
on  board,  and  might  be  introduced  among  them.  Only 
two  years  ago  [1837],  by  an  unpardonable  imprudence  of 

■^  The  story  of  Blackbird  is  a  famous  one  in  the  history  of  the  west- 
ern Indians.  It  has  been  best  told  by  Washington  Irving  in  his 
Astoria.  The  hill  on  which  the  grave  rests  is  a  prominent  one  on  the 
west  shore  of  the  river.  Twenty-five  miles  distant,  on  a  high  hill 
on  the  east  shore,  stands  an  obelisk,  100  feet  high,  over  the 
grave  of  the  first  American  pioneer  to  die  in  this  region  —  Sergeant 
Charles  Floyd  of  the  Lewis  and  Clark  Expedition,  who  died  and  was 
buried  here  August  20,  1804.  These  two  graves  practically  in  sight  of 
each  other,  have  a  deep  historic  significance,  denoting,  as  they  do,  the 
advent  into  this  region  of  one  race  and  the  exit  of  another. 


NOT    BUILT    FOR    FEASTING.  1 89 

the  captain,  this  disease  was  introduced  into  the  Indian 
country  by  the  same  vessel,  [St.  Peter's]  and  produced  rav- 
ages frightful  and  unheard-of  in  Indian  annals.  Twenty- 
five  or  thirty  thousand  died  in  a  few  weeks.  Of  1,200 
men  of  the  tribe  of  the  Mandans,  only  seven  fam- 
ilies escaped  the  contagion.  About  eighty  warriors  of 
this  Httle  nation  committed  suicide  in  the  days  of  calamity, 
some  in  despair  at  the  loss  of  their  children  and  friends, 
others  through  fear  of  becoming  the  slaves  of  their  ene- 
mies, and  the  greater  number  saying  that  they  were 
horrified  at  the  idea  of  seeing  their  bodies  corrupted  while 
yet  alive.^ 

On  the  nth  of  May  I  reached  my  destination,  and 
quitted  with  regret  my  four  new  children  in  Christ  and  my 
two  friends.  It  would  have  been  very  gratifying  to  me 
to  have  accompanied  these  two  gentlemen  in  their  lengthy 
course,  if  my  health  and  circumstances  would  have  allowed 
me,  so  as  to  visit  the  numerous  nations  of  the  mountains. 

On  my  arrival  among  the  Sioux,  the  chiefs  and  warriors 
of  the  tribe  of  Yanktons  invited  me  to  feast.  All  were 
seated  in  a  circle  in  a  grand  lodge  or  tent  of  buffalo  hides. 
Each  one  rested  his  chin  on  his  knees,  the  legs  drawn  close 
up  to  the  body,  a  position  that  my  corpulency  would 
not  allow  me  to  assume,  I  therefore  seated  myself  like  a 
tailor  on  his  table,  with  my  legs  crossed.  Every  one  re- 
ceived a  big  piece  of  venison  in  a  wooden  trencher;  those 
who  cannot  finish  their  portion  are  permitted  to  take 
away  —  it  is  their  custom  —  the  remains  of  the  dish.  I 
was  among  this  number,  and  I  had  enough  left  for  two 
days.  I  observed  at  this  feast  that  when  a  savage  had 
finished  his  dish,  he  rubbed  his  belly  and  breast  with  his 
two  hands  in  sign  of  satisfaction,  and  thanked  his  host 
for  having  so  well  regaled  him. 

The  repast  concluded,  I  disclosed  to  them  the  principal 
object  of  my  visit  among  them,  viz:  a  durable  peace  be- 

8  For  a  history  of  this  terrible  scourge,  see  American  Fur  Trade  of 
the  Far  West,  p.  619. 


190  DOWN   STREAM   IN   A   DUGOUT. 

tween  the  Sioux  and  the  Potawatomies  their  neighbors. 
Having  discussed  the  different  points  and  refuted  the  false 
reports  that  divided  the  two  nations,  I  persuaded  the 
Sioux  to  make  some  presents  to  the  children  of  such  of 
our  Potawatomies  as  they  had  killed,  which  is  called 
covering  the  dead,  and  to  come  and  smoke  with  them  the 
calumet  of  peace.  The  feast  and  the  council  were  termi- 
nated with  the  most  perfect  cordiality.  The  same  even- 
ing I  gave  them  an  instruction  on  the  Apostles'  Creed, 
and  I  baptized  a  great  number  of  their  little  children. 
This  nation,  dispersed  over  a  wide  extent,  reckons  32,000 
souls. 

The  evening  before  I  left  a  number  of  the  savages 
came  to  honor  me  with  the  calumet  dance. 

The  object  of  my  voyage  being  obtained,  I  seized  the 
first  opportunity  of  returning  to  my  mission.  The  sav- 
ages, besides,  had  already  struck  camp  to  follow  the  bison, 
which  were  moving  away.  My  vessel,  this  time,  was  a 
tree  hollowed  out,  which  is  called  a  canoe,  ten  feet  in 
length  by  one  and  a  half  in  width.  I  could  just  seat  my- 
self in  it.  Before  this,  I  had  crossed  the  river  in  this  sort 
of  craft,  but  never  without  fear,  it  being  evidently  very 
dangerous;  now  I  had  360  miles  to  descend  on  the  most 
perilous  and  most  impetuous  of  rivers,  and  it  was  neces- 
sary, for  I  had  no  other  way.  Happily  I  was  accompanied 
by  two  very  skilful  pilots,  who,  paddling  on  the  right  i^nd 
left,  darted  with  the  fleetness  of  an  arrow  through  the 
numerous  sawyers  with  which  the  river  was  filled,  the  frail 
bark  which  the  shghtest  shock  could  overturn.  Judge 
how  swift  its  course  is:  in  three  days,  sailing  from  four 
o'clock  in  the  morning  until  sunset,  we  had  passed  over 
120  leagues.  Two  nights  only  I  slept  in  the  open  air,  hav- 
ing no  bed  but  my  buffalo  robe,  and  no  pillow  but  my 
traveling-bag.  Yet  I  can  assure  you  that  my  slumbers 
were  as  peaceable  and  profound  as  I  ever  enjoyed  in  my 
life.  A  good  appetite,  for  the  air  on  the  water  is  fresh, 
prepared  us  for  three  excellent  meals  each  day.     My  com- 


EARLY    OMAHA    ARCHITECTURE.  I9I 

panions  were  well  provided  with  bread,  butter,  coffee  and 
sugar;  game  was  also  abundant,  and  we  had  but  to  select, 
I  never  saw  so  many  ducks,  geese,  bustards,  swans  and 
wild  turkeys,  in  such  a  short  trip. 

We  made  our  evening  soup  with  the  muddy  water  of 
the  Missouri,  which  gave  the  meat  the  singular  appearance 
of  having  been  seasoned  with  mud.  It  was,  however, 
thanks  to  our  appetites,  excellent,  notwithstanding  this, 
and  soup  and  meat  swiftly  disappeared. 

At  our  last  encampment,  attracted  without  doubt  by 
the  sight  of  the  fire  which  sparkled  at  our  feet,  a  noble 
stag  approached  us,  stamping  with  his  feet  —  a  little  more 
and  we  might  have  had  our  skulls  broken  in  by  this  en- 
raged animal.  It  aroused  the  pilot,  who,  seizing  the  gun 
that  was  lying  beside  me,  discharged  it  about  two  inches 
from  my  ear.  This  report  awaked  me  suddenly,  without, 
however,  frightening  me. 

During  my  route,  except  the  Sioux,  I  saw  only  one 
Indian  hunter,  and  one  single  village,  that  of  the  Omahas. 
What  a  contrast  with  the  beautiful,  little  and  populous 
Belgium !  ®  The  huts  of  the  Omahas  are  built  of  earth, 
and  are  conical;  their  circumference  at  the  base,  120  to  140 
feet.  To  construct  them,  they  plant  in  the  ground  long  and 
thick  poles,  bend  and  join  together  all  the  ends,  which  are 
fastened  to  about  twenty  posts  in  the  inside.  These  poles 
are  afterwards  covered  with  bark,  over  which  they  put 
earth  about  a  foot  in  depth,  and  then  cover  the  whole  with 
turf.  They  look  like  small  mounds.  A  large  hole  in  the 
summit  permits  light  to  enter  and  smoke  to  escape.  The 
fire-place  is  in  the  center  and  every  hut  holds  from  six  to 
ten  families. 

A  young  French  Creole  conducted  his  wife  to  me,  to 
have  her  instructed  in  our  holy  religion.  He  came  down 
with  her  quite  recently  from  beyond  the  Rocky  Moun- 

9  Scarcely  greater  than  would  be  the  contrast  with  this  same  country 
to-day  where  within  a  radius  of  ten  miles  of  Father  De  Smet's  start- 
ing point  on  this  journey  are  now  a  quarter  of  a  million  people. 


192  FISH    AND    BUFFALO    UNKNOWN. 

tains,  a  distance  of  eleven  or  twelve  hundred  leagues.  The 
recital  that  she  gives  me  of  the  life  led  by  her  nation,  the 
Ampajoots  [Yampah  Utes?]  is  truly  heartrending.  The 
soil  is  one  of  the  most  ungrateful;  they  have  no  game  at 
all.  If  they  hazard  leaving  their  country,  their  more  nu- 
merous neighbors  kill  them  without  mercy.  They  are 
without  clothes,  without  habitations,  and  roam  Hke  wild 
animals  in  the  prairies,  where  they  live  on  roots,  grasshop- 
pers and  large  ants.  They  crush  the  last-named  insects  be- 
tween two  stones,  and  make  a  species  of  cake  with  them, 
which  they  cook  in  the  sun  or  before  a  fire,  to  regale  them- 
selves with  after.  This  poor  Indian  woman,  aged  about 
twenty-five  years,  had  never  eaten  meat.  Her  astonishment 
was  excessive  when  she  first  saw  chickens,  pigs,  cows  and 
oxen,  with  other  domestic  fowls  and  animals,  running  about 
our  dwellings.  As  soon  as  she  is  sufficiently  instructed  to 
receive  baptism,  I  will  name  her  Isabella,  and  you  shall 
be  her  godmother.  Therefore  do  not  forget  the  poor 
Ampajoot  in  your  prayers. 

Your  letter  that  you  mentioned,  dated  July,  did  not 
reach  me.  The  distance  is  about  2,000  miles,  and  the  dan- 
gers are  great.  My  letter  to  the  Carmelites  is  about  the 
same  as  this. 


PART  II. 

THE  FLATHEAD  MISSION. 

Itinerary  for  the  Years  1840,  1841  and  1842. 
1840. 

rATHER  DeSMET  left  St.  Louis  by  steamer  March 
27th  and  went  as  far  as  Westport  where  he  joined  the 
American  Fur  Company  caravan  under  Andrew  Drips^  — 
Left  Westport  by  land  April  30th  —  Followed  the  usual 
route  across  the  country  to  the  Platte  and  up  that  stream  past 
Fort  Laramie,  Independence  Rock  and  South  Pass^  —  Ar- 
rived at  the  fur  company  rendezvous  June  30th  where  he  met 
the  advance  guard  of  the  Flatheads  sent  out  to  meet  him  — 
In  company  with  the  Flatheads  he  continued  his  route  via 
the  head  of  Green  river ;  across  the  divide  to  Jackson's  Little 
Hole  on  the  head  of  Hoback  river ;  down  the  valley  of  that 
stream  to  the  Snake  river;  across  the  Snake  at  the  lower 
end  of  Jackson  Hole ;  across  Teton  Pass,  and  into  the  valley 
called  Pierre's  Hole,  where  he  met  the  main  camp  of  the 
Flatheads,  Pend  d'Oreilles  and  Nez  Perces  about  July  12th. 
Continued  his  route  in  company  with  the  Indians  up 
Henry  Fork  of  Snake  river  to  Henry  lake  July  22d ;  across 
the  Divide  to  Red  Rock  lake  (Mosquito  lake  of  the  trap- 
pers), the  ultimate  source  of  the  Missouri ;  down  the  Stink- 
ing Water  river  to  its  confluence  with  the  Beaver  Head 

1  A  distinguished  trader  of  the  American  Fur  Company,  and  later 
Indian  agent  for  the  tribes  of  the  upper  Missouri. 

2  The  most  noted  pass  across  the  Continental  Divide.  It  lay  between 
the  source  of  the  Sweetwater  river  in  the  Missouri  watershed  and  Big 
Sandy  river,  a  tributary  of  Green  river,  itself  the  main  tributary  of  the 
Colorado  of  the  West. 

13  [193] 


194  TRAVELS  OF  184O  AND  184I. 

river,  and  down  the  latter  to  Jefferson  Fork  which  they  de- 
scended to  the  junction  of  the  Three  Forks  where  the  Mis- 
souri proper  takes  its  source;  August  2i3t. 

After  a  brief  sojourn  here,  he  bade  adieu  to  the  Indians, 
and  with  a  small  escort,  started  August  27th  on  his  return 
to  St.  Louis  —  Ascended  the  east  fork  of  the  Gallatin ; 
crossed  what  is  now  called  Bozeman  Pass,  between  the  val- 
leys of  the  upper  Missouri  and  Yellowstone;  descended  the 
Yellowstone  along  the  left  bank  and  met  the  Crow  Indians 
in  the  Big  Horn  valley,  some  distance  above  the  mouth  of 
that  stream  —  After  some  delay  he  pursued  his  journey 
down  the  Big  Horn  to  the  Yellowstone  and  down  the  latter 
stream  to  the  mouth  of  the  Rosebud  where  he  crossed  to 
Fort  Alexander  —  Bidding  good-bye  to  the  inmates  of  the 
fort  and  to  the  Indians,  he  and  a  single  companion  set  out 
down  the  Yellowstone  along  the  left  bank ;  crossed  the  Mis- 
souri at  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone  and  arrived  at  Fort 
Union. 

Leaving  Fort  Union  September  23d,  he  made  his  way 
by  land  down  the  Missouri,  visiting  Forts  Clark,  Pierre  (Oc- 
tober 17th)  and  Vermillion  —  At  Vermillion  he  took  a  canoe 
but  was  stopped  by  ice  at  St.  Joseph  Mission  near  Council 
Bluffs  —  Thence  (December  14th)  he  traveled  by  horse  back 
to  Independence,  and  thence  to  St.  Louis  by  stage,  arriving 
December  31st. 

Distance  traveled,  4,814  miles. 

1841. 

Father  De  Smet  left  St.  Louis  April  24th  for  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  accompanied  by  two  fathers  and  three  brothers 
■of  the  Society  —  Left  Westport  May  loth  —  The  route  fol- 
lowed was  practically  the  same  as  that  of  1840  as  far  as 
South  Pass  (July  7th) — Thence  they  followed  the  route  of 
the  Oregon  trail  via  Bear  river.  Soda  Springs  (August 
13th),  across  the  dividing  ridge  and  down  the  Portneuf 
river  to  Fort  Hall  on  the  banks  of  the  Snake. 


TRAVELS    IN    1 84 1    AND    1 842.  I95 

Left  Fort  Hall  August  19th  —  Crossed  the  Snake  river 
and  traversed  the  desert  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Three  Buttes 

—  Continued  north  to  the  Continental  Divide  and  crossed  it 
about  on  the  present  line  of  the  Oregon  Short  Line  railroad 

—  Entered  the  Beaver  Head  valley  (August  30th)v^here  the 
Flatheads  were  found  encamped  —  Recrossed  the  Divide 
into  the  valley  of  Deer  Lodge  creek  near  the  well-known  hot 
springs  in  that  vicinity  —  Descended  the  Deer  Lodge  creek 
and  Hellgate  river  to  its  junction  with  the  Bitter  Root  where 
Missoula  now  stands  —  Ascended  the  Bitter  Root  valley 
about  thirty  miles  and  commenced  the  Mission  of  St.  Mary's, 
September  24th. 

Set  out  to  Fort  Colville  for  provisions  October  28th  — 
Went  to  Flathead  lake  —  Thence  down  the  Flathead  river 
to  its  junction  with  Missoula  river;  thence  down  Clark's 
Fork,  passing  Camas  Plains,  Horse  Plains,  and  a  dense  for- 
est of  cedar  and  pine  which  it  took  four  days  to  traverse  — 
Passed  by  Pend  d'Oreille  lake,  which  he  called  Kalispel 
lake  —  Thence  to  Lake  Kalispel  called  by  him  Lake  de  Boey 

—  Crossed  the  mountains  to  Mill  creek,  and  descended  its 
valley  to  Fort  Colville  on  the  Columbia  where  he  arrived 
November  15th. 

After  three  days  spent  in  procuring  provisions  and  tools 
Father  De  Smet  returned  by  practically  the  same  route  and 
arrived  at  St.  Mary's  Mission  December  8th. 

Distance  traveled,  2,323  miles. 

1842. 

"  In  the  spring  of  this  year  [about  April  loth]  I  set  out 
from  St.  Mary's  to  visit  Fort  Vancouver  and  the  Willa- 
mette valley  to  confer  with  the  Governor  of  the  Hudson 
Bay  Company  and  with  the  Very  Reverend  Mr.  Blanchet, 
administrator  of  Oregon,  upon  the  present  and  future  in- 
terests of  our  missions  in  the  mountains  "  —  Went  by  way 
of  Flathead  lake  and  the  route  of  the  previous  year  most 
of  the  way  arrived  at  Fort  Colville  "  in  the  beginning  of 


196  TRAVELS   IN    1 842. 

May  "  —  Met  a  Kootenai  band  near  the  head  of  Flathead 
lake  —  At  the  Bay  of  the  Kalispels  he  was  invited  by  the 
Coeur  d'Alenes  to  visit  their  country  and  he  accordingly 
made  a  detour  to  Coeur  d'Alene  lake  where  the  Indians 
were  encamped  —  Remained  several  days  in  their  country 
—  Passed  by  the  site  of  the  modern  Spokane  City  and  thence 
to  the  sources  of  Mill  creek,  which  he  descended  all  the  waj 
to  Fort  Colville. 

May  30th  embarked  in  a  skiff  on  the  Columbia  —  Fiv( 
men  drowned  in  a  rapid  a  little  above  Fort  Okinagan  — 
Stopped  at  Fort  Okinagan  —  Visited  Fort  Walla  Walk 
and  the  Protestant  mission  at  the  Dalles  —  Passed  the  Dalle; 
by  boat  but  portaged  around  the  Cascades  —  Arrived  safel} 
at  Fort  Vancouver  on  the  morning  of  June  8th  —  Ascendec 
the  Willamette  valley  to  the  Willamette  Falls  and  thenc( 
to  the  mission  of  St.  Paul  which  was  Reverend  Blandhet'; 
residence. 

Having  completed  his  business  with  Blanchet  and  Mc 
Loughlin,  Father  De  Smet  set  out  on  his  return  journey 
June  30th  —  Ascended  the  Columbia  as  far  as  Fort  Wall; 
Walla  —  Thence  northerly  across  the  Nez  Perce  and  Spokai 
deserts  to  the  Coeur  d'Alene  lake  —  Thence  via  St.  Josepl 
river  and  over  the  mountains  to  Missoula  river,  and  theno 
up  the  Bitter  Root  to  St.  Mary's  Mission. 

Father  De  Smet  had  been  strongly  advised  by  the  Rev 
erend  Blanchet,  Governor  McLoughlin  and  others  to  retun 
to  the  United  States  for  personal  and  material  succor  fo: 
the  missions,  and  accordingly,  after  arranging  for  the  com 
mencement  of  two  new  residences,  one  among  the  Kalispel: 
of  the  Bay  and  another  among  the  Coeur  d'Alenes,  he  mad< 
preparations  for  departure. 

Accompanied  by  two  Indians  to  serve  as  guides  and  hunt 
ers,  Father  De  Smet  set  out  on  his  journey  July  29th  —  As 
cended  the  Bitter  Root  to  its  source  —  Crossed  the  Divid( 
to  the  headwaters  of  the  Big  Hole  —  August  2d  to  Augus 
15th  spent  in  the  plain  of  the  Three  Forks  with  the  Flathead; 


TRAVELS  IN    1 842.  1 97 

who  were  on  a  buffalo  hunt  —  August  i6th  set  out  for  St. 
Louis  —  Followed  practically  the  same  route  as  in  1840  — 
Left  Fort  Alexander  about  August  25th,  and  arrived  at 
Fort  Union  about  September  loth  —  Set  out  in  a  skiff  for 
St.  Louis  but  on  third  day  out  met  steamboat  and  went  on 
board  —  Was  forty-six  days  making  the  down  trip  and  ar- 
rived in  St.  Louis  the  last  Sunday  in  October. 
Distance  traveled,  4,529  miles. 


CHAPTER  I. 

ST.   LOUIS  TO  GREEN   RIVER  RENDEZVOUS.-^ 

Steamboat  journey  to  Westport  —  Passengers  and  scenery  —  Start 
overland  with  Fur  Company  caravan  —  Kansas  Indians  —  Chills  and 
fever  —  The  picturesque  Platte  —  Antelope,  prairie-dogs,  buffalo  and 
wolves  —  Chimney  Rock  —  Camp  of  the  Cheyennes  en  Laramie  Fork 
—  Boiled  dog  —  First  view  of  the  Rocky  Mountains — Red  Butte  — 
Sweetwater  river  —  Independence  Rock  —  South  Pass. 

•fKI  O  doubt  you  are  looking  for  some  interesting  details  of 
■'  ^  my  long,  very  long,  journey  from  St.  Louis  to  the 
other  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  It  took  me  sixty  days 
to  cross  the  famous  American  desert,  and  nearly  four 
months  to  effect  my  return  by  a  new  and  very  hazardous 
road. 

Sent  out  by  the  right  reverend  bishop  and  by  my  provin- 
cial, to  gain  knowledge  of  the  disposition  of  the  savages 
and  of  the  success  that  might  probably  be  looked  for  from 
founding  a  mission  among  them,  I  left  St.  Louis^  on  the  27th 
of  March,  1840,  in  a  steamboat,  and  ascended  the  Missouri 
a  distance  of  500  [390]  miles  to  reach  the  state  frontier. 
The  craft  on  which  I  had  embarked  was  (like  all  of  them  in 
this  land,  where  emigration  and  commerce  have  grown  to 
such  an  extent)  encumbered  with  freight  and  passengers 
from  every  state  of  the  Union;  I  may  even  say  from  the 

1  The  text  of  the  following  two  chapters  is  taken  from  the  first  82 
pages  of  the  Voyages  aux  Montagnes-Rocheuses  where  it  is  addressed 
to  M.  le  Chanoine  Charles  de  la  Croix  (a  former  missionary  to  the 
Osage  Indians)  at  Ghent,  under  date  of  February  4,  1841.  Letter  II 
of  the  Letters  and  Sketches  is  apparently  a  translation  into  English  of 
another  copy  of  the  same  letter,  transmitted  to  the  Father  General 
(Roothaan)  three  days  later;  but  much  matter  being  omitted,  the 
editors  have  preferred  to  follow  the  French  copy. 

2  Accompanied  by  "  Young  "  Ignace,  of  the  fourth  Flathead  deputa- 
tion; the  other  member,  Peter  Left  Hand,  having  gone  on  ahead  to 
announce  their  coming. 

[198] 


BOTANY    FROM    THE    STEAMBOAT.  1 99 

various  nations  of  the  earth,  white,  black,  yellow  and  red, 
with  shadings  of  all  these  colors.  The  boat  was  like  a  little 
floating  Babel,  on  account  of  the  different  languages  and 
jargons  that  were  heard  upon  it.  These  passengers  drop 
off  here  and  there  on  the  river,  to  open  farms,  construct 
mills,  build  factories  of  every  kind;  they  increase  day  by 
day  the  number  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  little  towns  and 
villages  that  spring  up  as  if  by  magic,  on  both  sides  of  the 
river. 

As  we  went  on  up,  we  found  the  country  full  of  charm  and 
interest,  diversified  with  vertical  rocks  and  very  high  clay 
hills,  often  cut-faced.  The  bottoms  exhibit  a  great  variety 
of  trees  and  bushes,  oaks,  and  walnuts  of  a  dozen  different 
species ;  the  sassafras  and  the  acacia  triacanthus,  whose  flow- 
ers load  the  air  with  their  delicious  perfume;  the  maple, 
which  is  the  first  to  clothe  itself  in  the  livery  of  spring;  and 
the  sycamore,  king  of  the  western  forest,  which  erects  itself 
in  the  most  graceful  forms,  with  vast  spreading  branches, 
covered  with  a  brilliant  white  bark,  and  adds  a  distinctive 
note  of  grandeur  to  the  imposing  beauty  of  the  woods.  I 
have  seen  them  fifteen  feet  and  a  half  in  diameter.  The 
Cottonwood,  {populus  dcltoides,)  is  another  giant,  growing 
to  a  prodigious  height:  the  bignonia  radicans  seems  to  pre- 
fer it  to  all  others,  climbs  to  its  very  top  and  lets  loose  a 
profusion  of  great  flame-colored  trumpet-shaped  blossoms. 
Here  the  traveler  is  struck  by  the  thousand  lofty  columns 
of  the  Cottonwood,  enveloped,  from  the  ground  to  the 
branches,  by  a  drapery  of  dark  green  vines.  It  is  one  of 
nature's  charms  that  one  never  wearies  of  contemplating.' 

The  dogwood,  (cormts  iiorida,)  and  the  redbud,  (cercis 
canadensis,)  fill  the  gap  betwixt  tree  and  shrub.  The  first 
has   a   handsome   heart-shaped   leaf   and   spreads    out    its 

3  Father  De  Smet  does  not  overstate  the  natural  beauty  of  the  lower 
Missouri  valley.  With  its  lofty  bluffs  of  white  limestone,  its  varied 
and  luxuriant  foliage,  and  its  rich  cultivated  bottom  land,  it  exhibits 
one  of  the  most  perfect  examples  of  landscape  beauty  to  be  found 
anywhere. 


200  WESTPORT    IN    THE    WILDERNESS. 

branches  like  an  umbrella :  in  spring  they  are  covered  with 
brilliant  white  flowers :  in  the  fall  they  exhibit  lovely  scarlet 
berries.  The  other  is  the  first  shrub  that  one  sees  in  blos- 
som the  length  of  the  Missouri. 

These  shrubs  are  scattered  everywhere  throughout  the 
woods,  and  in  the  earliest  spring  their  masses  of  brilliant 
flowers  form  a  delicate  contrast  with  the  dominant  brown 
of  the  forest.  The  redbud  gives  to  the  landscape  a  charm 
that  the  traveler  who  sees  it  for  the  first  time  can  never 
forget.  The  wild  cherry,  mulberry  and  ash  are  very  com- 
mon. In  all  these  bottoms  the  soil  is  prodigiously  rich,  and 
strongly  impregnated  with  saline  substances  and  decom- 
posed limestones. 

The  banks,  however,  are  very  unstable  and  crumble  con- 
tinually :  which  renders  the  river  water,  otherwise  very  pure 
and  wholesome,  muddy  and  disgusting  as  a  drink.  Sand- 
bars and  submerged  trees  are  so  numerous  that  one  becomes 
used  to  them  and  scarcely  thinks  of  the  risks  that  he  is  run- 
ning every  minute.  It  is  interesting  to  observe  how  deep 
the  roots  thrust  themselves  into  this  fertile  soil;  where  the 
bank  has  crumbled  you  may  observe  the  whole  length  of 
them ;  as  a  rule  there  is  only  one  main  tap  root,  which  pene- 
trates ten  or  twelve  feet,  with  other  smaller  ones  round 
about  it. 

After  ten  days'  navigation,  I  reached  Westport,^  a  little 

4  Independence  and  Westport,  progenitors  of  the  present  Kansas 
City.  Independence  was  the  older  of  the  two  towns.  It  was  located 
on  the  29th  of  March,  1827.  Its  early  growth  was  largely  due  to  the 
Sante  Fe  trade. 

The  rise  of  Westport  so  close  to  Independence  was  due  to  the 
caprices  of  the  Missouri  river.  That  erratic  stream  destroyed  the 
steamboat  landing  of  Independence.  Farther  up  stream  there  was  a 
stable  bank  and  here  the  steamboats  went.  The  place  was  called  West- 
port  landing,  and  was  the  true  beginning  of  the  future  Kansas  City. 
Westport  itself  was  back  some  distance  from  the  landing.  It  was  laid 
out  in  1833  and  grew  rapidly,  diverting  much  of  the  trade  from 
Independence. 

The  early  life  of  both  of  these  towns  depended  almost  entirely  upon 


ACCOUNT    OF    THE    KANSAS    INDIANS.  201 

town  on  the  Indian  frontier,  whence  I  was  to  strike  out 
for  the  mountains.  On  the  30th  of  April,  [1840]  I  set  out 
from  Westport  with  the  annual  expedition  of  the  American 
Fur  Company,  [Captain  Andrew  Drips] ^  which  was  on  its 
way  to  Green  river,  one  of  the  branches  of  the  Colorado. 
Until  the  17th  of  May  we  traveled  westward  over  immense 
plains,  destitute  of  trees  or  shrubs,  except  along  the  streams, 
and  broken  by  deep  ravines,  where  our  voyageurs  lowered 
and  raised  the  carts  by  means  of  ropes.  The  heat  of  sum- 
mer was  already  commencing  to  make  itself  felt;  still  the 
weather  was  favorable;  often  the  thermometer  would  be  as 
low  as  -ij^  in  the  morning,  though  it  might  rise  to  90 
by  noon.  The  strong  winds  that  prevail  unceasingly  in 
these  vast  plains  make  the  heat  supportable.  Game  was 
scarce;  still  my  hunter  supplied  my  tent  abundantly  with 
ducks,  snipe,  prairie-chickens,  cranes,  pigeon,  badgers,  deer 
and  antelope. 

The  only  men  that  I  met  in  these  first  days  were  some 
Kansas  Indians,  who  were  on  their  way  to  Westport  to  sell 
their  peltries.  They  dwell  upon  the  Kansas  river.  Their 
territory  begins  sixty  miles  west  of  the  state  of  Missouri, 
and  their  villages  are  at  a  distance  of  eighty  miles.  Their 
language,  customs  and  manners  are  the  same  as  those  of  the 
Osages. 

In  peace  and  in  war,  these  two  nations  unite  their  inter- 
ests, and  form,  so  to  speak,  a  single  nation  of  some  1,700 
souls.  They  live  in  villages,  wherein  their  huts,  which  may 
be  made  of  bark,  like  the  wigwams  of  the  Potawatomies, 
or  of  rushes  like  those  of  the  Osages,  or  of  earth  like  the 
akozos  of  the  Pawnees  and  Otoes,  are  placed  at  random  and 

the  trade  along  the  Oregon  and  Santa  Fe  trails,  and  that  with  the 
numerous  tribes  of  Indians  located  in  the  surrounding  country.  Both 
were  outstripped  at  a  later  date  by  Kansas  City,  which  was  laid  out 
in  1838. 

5  Andrew  Drips,  born  in  Pennsylvania,  1789,  died  Kansas  City.  Sep- 
tember I,  i860.  In  the  fur  trade  at  least  as  early  as  1820;  member  of 
Missouri  and  American  Fur  Companies ;  trader  at  Bellevue ;  Indian 
agent  under  President  Tyler. 


202  DEFIES    CHILLS   AND    FEVER. 

without  order.  These  last  are  round  and  shaped  Hke  a 
cone;  the  wall  is  near  three  feet  thick;  the  whole  work  is 
supported  within  by  sundry  posts.  In  all  their  huts,  the 
hard  ground  is  the  floor ;  the  fire-place  is  in  the  middle  and 
the  smoke  escapes  through  a  hole  arranged  in  the  summit. 
The  door  is  so  low  and  narrow  that  one  can  enter  only  by 
crawling ;  it  consists  merely  of  a  dried  skin  hung  up.  These 
savages  seemed  to  me  very  poor  and  miserable.  The  greater 
part  of  them  were  on  foot;  just  before  we  met  them,  the 
Otoes  had  stolen  twenty-five  of  their  horses.  They  ex- 
pressed an  ardent  longing  to  have  a  mission  of  our  fathers 
among  them. 

As  we  advanced  toward  the  west,  we  crossed  elevated 
ridges,  which  now  and  then  gave  us  extensive  and  very 
beautiful  views.  The  great  plain  was  dotted  with  groves  of 
old  and  large  trees ;  especially  noticeable  was  the  wakarusa, 
or  Cottonwood,^  a  plant  which  is  abundant  in  this  region, 
and  on  which  the  Indians  feed.  It  is  found  along  a  river 
that  bears  the  same  name,  and  which  flows  into  the  Kansas. 
Both  these  rivers  have  rich  and  fertile  bottoms  and  are  well 
wooded.  All  the  summit  of  the  Divide  is  full  of  petrifac- 
tions. The  surface  of  the  earth  over  a  considerable  part  of 
this  region  is  covered  with  great  flat  grey  and  yellow  stones, 
lying  in  confusion  as  if  they  had  been  brought  forth  from 
the  bosom  of  the  earth  by  some  subterranean  agitation. 

I  had  been  no  more  than  six  days  in  the  wilderness,  when 
I  was  overcome  by  intermittent  fever,  with  the  chills  that 
ordinarily  precede  the  attacks  of  heat.  This  fever  never 
left  me  until  I  reached  the  Yellowstone,  on  my  way  back 
from  the  mountains.  I  cannot  give  you  any  idea  of  my 
deplorable  state.  My  friends  advised  me  to  go  back ;  but  my 
desire  of  seeing  the  nations  of  the  mountains  prevailed  over 
all  their  good  reasons.  I  therefore  followed  the  caravan  as 
best  I  could,  sticking  on  my  horse  as  long  as  I  had  the 
strength;  after  that  I  would  go  and  lie  in  a  cart  on  the 

6  Waggere-rousse,   ou   la   iieur   du   cotonnier.      [Wakarusa   is   com- 
monly said  to  mean  "  hip  deep."] 


THE    PLATTE    AND    ITS    NAME.  203 

boxes,  where  I  was  jolted  about  like  a  malefactor;  very 
often  we  would  have  to  cross  deep  and  perpendicular  ra- 
vines, throwing  me  into  the  most  singular  positions ;  now 
my  feet  would  be  in  the  air,  now  I  would  find  myself  hid- 
den like  a  thief  between  boxes  and  bundles,  cold  as  an  icicle 
or  covered  with  sweat  and  burning  like  a  stove.  You  might 
add  that  during  the  three  days  when  my  fever  was  at  its 
highest,  I  had  no  water  but  what  was  stagnant  and  dirty. 
On  the  1 8th  of  May,  after  crossing  a  beautiful  plain 
thirty  miles  in  width,  we  arrived  upon  the  banks  of  the 
Nebraska^  or  Deer  river  (riviere  au  Cerf),  which  the  French 
designate  by  the  less  appropriate  name  of  Platte,  or  Riviere- 
Plate.  The  Platte  is  the  chief  tributary  of  the  Missouri, 
and  may  be  considered  the  most  wonderful  and  most  use- 
less of  the  rivers  of  North  America;  for  it  is  2,000  yards 
in  width  from  one  bank  to  the  other,  and  its  depth  is  seldom 
more  than  two  to  six  feet ;  the  bottom  is  quicksand.  It 
comes  from  an  immense  distance,  through  a  wide  and  green 
valley,  and  receives  the  great  abundance  of  its  waters  from 
various  branches  that  come  down  from  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains. The  mouth  of  this  river  is  800  [650]  miles  from  St. 
Louis  by  water,  and  forms  the  dividing  point  between  the 
Lower  and  the  Upper  Missouri.  I  was  often  struck  with 
admiration  at  sight  of  the  picturesque  scenes  which  we  en- 
joyed all  the  way  up  the  Platte.  Think  of  the  big  ponds 
that  you  have  seen  in  the  parks  of  European  noblemen, 
dotted  with  little  wooded  islands ;  the  Platte  offers  you 
these  by  thousands,  and  of  all  shapes.  I  have  seen  groups 
of  these  islands  that  one  might  easily  take,  from  a  distance, 

T  Father  De  Smet's  explanation  of  the  meaning  of  "  Nebraska " 
(r.  au  Cerf  in  French,  Big  Horn  in  English  version)  is  unique.  All 
the  early  explorers  accounted  for  it  as  an  Indian  equivalent  for  "  shal- 
low water,"  French  la  Platte.  Many  geographical  names  for  streams, 
derived  from  Siouan  languages,  contain  the  root  "  ne  "  or  "minne:" 
Minnehaha  (laughing  water),  Nehawka  (weeping  water),  Niobrara 
(running  water),  Nemaha  (river  of  the  Omahas),  etc.  It  is  said,  how- 
ever, that  nebra-ska  means  "  fine  white  sand,"  such  as  flies  from  the 
bars  of  the  Platte  and  Missouri,  in  the  Sioux  language. 


204  JOYFUL  PROSPECT  OF  BUFFALO. 

for  fleets  under  sail,  garlanded  with  verdure  and  festooned 
with  flowers;  and  the  rapid  flow  of  the  river  past  them 
made  them  seem  to  be  flying  over  the  water,  this  appearance 
of  motion  completing  the  charm  of  the  illusion.  Neither 
bank  of  the  river  is  wooded ;  the  trees  which  the  isles  chiefly 
produce  are  a  species  of  white  poplar,  commonly  called  cot- 
tonwoods;  the  savages  cut  them  down  in  winter  and  the 
bark  serves  as  fodder  for  their  horses. 

Antelope  are  very  plentiful  in  the  plain  of  the  Platte;  I 
have  often  seen  several  hundred  in  sight  at  one  time.  It 
is  the  most  agile  animal  of  the  prairies.  Hunters  make  use 
of  a  trick  to  come  near  him :  they  run  at  him  full  gallop, 
and  the  animal  is  off  like  a  flash,  leaving  the  horseman  far 
behind ;  but  soon  it  stops  to  look  at  him,  being  a  very  curi- 
ous creature ;  meanwhile  the  hunter  dismounts  and  lays  him- 
self flat  on  the  ground ;  here  he  makes  all  kinds  of  flourishes 
with  his  arms  and  legs,  now  and  then  waving  his  handker- 
chief, or  a  red  cap,  on  the  end  of  his  ramrod.  The  antelope 
draws  slowly  near,  to  watch  and  investigate  him;  and  as 
soon  as  it  is  within  gunshot,  the  hunter  fires  and  lays  it  low. 
Often  one  will  get  as  many  as  six  before  the  band  scatters. 
Other  animals  are  rare  in  this  region,  but  there  are  evident 
indications  that  game  has  not  always  been  lacking. 

For  several  days'  journeys,  we  found  the  whole  plain  cov- 
ered with  buffalo  bones  and  skulls  arranged  in  circles  or 
half-moons  and  painted  with  various  devices.  It  is  in  the 
midst  of  these  skulls  that  the  Pawnees  are  wont  to  practice 
their  superstitious  divinations,  when  they  go  forth  to  war  or 
to  the  chase.  After  a  long  sea- voyage,  the  sailor  rejoices  at 
the  sight  of  floating  weeds,  or  of  some  little  land  birds  that 
may  alight  for  rest  on  the  ship's  cordage,  sure  signs  to  him 
that  the  end  of  his  voyage  is  near.  Even  so  in  this  desert, 
the  traveler,  wearied  of  living  so  long  on  salt  meat,  is  re- 
joiced at  sight  of  these  weather-bleached  bones,  which  an- 
nounce to  him  the  vicinity  of  the  buffalo.  Nothing,  accord- 
ingly, but  shouts  of  joy  was  heard  in  our  camp ;  our  hunters 
perceived  that  the  buffalo  plains  were  not  far  off,  and  they 


MORTUARY    CUSTOMS   AND    BELIEFS.  205 

saluted  with  noisy  cheers  the  hope  of  soon  spreading  de- 
struction among  those  peaceful  herds. 

In  these  same  places  we  found  moreover  the  wistonwish 
of  the  Indians,  the  prairie-dog,  more  accurately  called  by  the 
voyageurs  the  American  squirrel.  These  animals  appear  to 
have  a  kind  of  civil  government  established  in  their  society. 
Their  towns  are  generally  located  on  the  slope  of  a  hill,  some- 
times near  a  little  lake  or  stream;  but  more  often  far  from 
any  water,  that  the  earth  in  which  they  dwell  may  not  be  ex- 
posed to  floods.  They  are  of  an  earthy  brown  color,  except 
the  belly,  which  is  white ;  their  tail  is  not  so  long  as  that  of 
the  grey  squirrel,  but  they  have  exactly  the  same  form ;  the 
teeth,  the  head,  the  claws  and  the  body  are  perfect  squirrel, 
except  that  they  are  bigger  and  plumper  than  that  animal. 
The  voyageurs  believe  that  their  only  food  is  the  roots  of 
the  grass,  and  the  dew  of  heaven  their  sole  drink. 

As  we  went  on,  we  saw  here  and  there  the  solitary  burial- 
places  of  the  Pawnees;  probably  those  of  some  chiefs  or 
warriors  who  had  fallen  in  combat  with  their  hereditary 
foes,  the  Sioux,  Cheyennes  or  Osages.  These  tombs  were 
adorned  with  buffalo  skulls  painted  red ;  the  body  is  put,  in 
a  sitting  position,  into  a  little  cabin  made  of  reeds  and 
branches  of  trees,  strongly  interwoven  to  keep  the  wolves 
out.  The  face  is  daubed  with  vermilion,  the  body  is  covered 
with  its  finest  war-ornaments,  and  beside  it  one  sees  provi- 
sions of  every  kind,  dried  meat,  tobacco,  powder  and  lead, 
gun,  bow  and  arrows.  For  several  years  the  families  will 
come  back  every  spring  to  renew  these  provisions.  Their 
idea  is  that  the  soul  hovers  for  a  long  time  about  the  spot 
where  the  body  reposes,  before  taking  its  flight  to  the  land 
of  souls. 

After  marching  for  seven  days  alongside  the  Platte,  we 
reached  the  plains  inhabited  by  the  buffalo.  I  left  the  camp 
alone,  very  early  one  morning,  to  see  them  more  at  my  ease ; 
I  approached  them  by  way  of  the  ravines,  without  showing 
myself  or  allowing  them  to  get  the  wind  of  me.  This  is  the 
most  keen-scented  of  animals;  he  will  detect  the  presence 


206  A   SIGHT    NO   LONGER   SEEN. 

of  a  man  at  a  distance  of  four  miles,  and  take  flight  at  once, 
since  that  odor  is  insupportable  to  him.  I  gained,  without 
being  perceived,  a  high  bluff,  resembling  in  shape  the  Water- 
loo monument;  from  it  I  enjoyed  a  view  of  perhaps  a  dozen 
miles.  This  vast  plain  was  so  covered  with  animals,  that  the 
markets  or  fairs  of  Europe  could  give  you  only  the  feeblest 
idea  of  it.  It  was  indeed  like  a  fair  of  the  whole  world 
assembled  in  one  of  its  loveliest  plains.  I  looked  with  won- 
der upon  the  slow  and  majestic  walk  of  these  heavy  wild 
cattle,  marching  silently  in  single  file,  while  others  cropped 
with  avidity  the  rich  pasturage,  which  is  called  the  short 
buffalo  grass.  Whole  bands  were  lying  amidst  flowers  on 
the  grass;  the  scene  altogether  realized  in  some  sort  the 
ancient  tradition  of  the  holy  scriptures,  speaking  of  the  vast 
pastoral  countries  of  the  Orient,  and  of  the  cattle  upon  a 
thousand  hills. 

I  could  not  weary  of  gazing  upon  this  delightful  scene, 
and  for  two  hours  I  watched  these  moving  masses  in  the 
same  state  of  astonishment.  Suddenly  the  immense  army 
seemed  startled ;  one  battalion  gave  the  panic  to  another,  and 
the  whole  multitude  was  in  flight,  running  in  every  direction. 
The  buffalo  had  caught  the  scent  of  their  common  enemy; 
the  hunters  had  rushed  among  them  on  the  gallop.  The 
earth  seemed  to  tremble  under  their  steps,  and  the  dull 
sounds  that  came  back  were  like  the  mutterings  of  distant 
thunder.  The  hunters  shot  to  right  and  left;  they  made 
a  great  slaughter  among  the  fattest  of  these  animals.  I  re- 
turned to  camp  with  them.  They  had  a  number  of  horse- 
loads  of  tongues,  humps,  ribs,  etc.,  all  the  rest  being  left  to 
the  wolves  and  vultures  [turkey  buzzard].  We  camped  not 
far  from  this  scene  of  butchery,  and  every  one  in  camp 
busied  himself  straightway  about  the  cooking.  There  being 
no  wood  on  the  banks  of  the  Platte,  our  people  made  use  of 
the  dry  dung  of  the  buffalo,  which  burns  like  peat.  We 
were  often  obliged  to  have  recourse  to  the  same  expedient 
in  the  prairies  of  the  Black  Hills. 

In  the  middle  of  the  night  frightful  sounds,  bowlings  and 


WHERE   THE    BUFFALO    WENT    TO.  20/ 

barkings  awoke  me ;  one  would  have  thought  the  four  tribes 
of  the  Pawnees  were  assembled  to  dispute  our  passage  over 
their  territory.  I  woke  my  guide,  to  learn  the  cause  of  the 
noise,  and  that  he  might  aid  in  resisting  the  enemy's  attack. 
He  laughed  and  answered,  "  Don't  be  scared ;  that  is  noth- 
ing. It  is  the  wolves  celebrating  after  their  long  winter's 
fast;  they  are  feasting  on  the  carcasses  of  the  cows  that 
the  hunters  have  left  on  the  prairie."  Wolves  are  very  nu- 
merous in  this  region.  According  to  the  Indians,  they  kill 
every  year  a  third  of  the  buffalo  calves ;  often  when  they  are 
in  strong  bands,  they  will  even  attack  full-grown  bulls  or 
cows,  hurling  themselves  all  together  upon  a  single  buffalo, 
pulling  him  down  very  skilfully  and  devouring  him. 

To  give  you  an  idea  of  the  great  number  of  buffaloes 
upon  the  Missouri,  I  will  here  add  that  in  this  year  of  1840, 
the  Fur  Company  has  brought  down  67,000  robes  to  St. 
Louis.  The  number  of  buffalo  that  the  savages  of  the  Mis- 
souri kill  for  their  own  needs,  for  their  tents,  clothing  and 
saddle-covers,  is  estimated,  one  year  with  another,  at  100,000 
besides  this. 

On  the  28th,  we  forded  the  South  Fork  of  the  Platte. 
All  this  region,  clear  up  to  the  great  mountains,  is  a  ver- 
itable barren,  rocky  and  sandy,  covered  with  scoria  and 
other  volcanic  substances,  with  no  fertile  spots  save  on 
the  rivers  and  creeks. 

This  region,  says  one  modern  traveler,®  resembles  the 
deserts  of  Asia  with  its  vast  undulating  and  treeless  plains, 
and  its  uncultivated,  sandy,  lonely  expanses,  which  weary 
the  eye  by  their  monotonous  extent.  It  is  a  land  wherein 
no  man  dwells;  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year,  even  the 
hunter  and  his  horse  lack  food  there.  All  herbage  is 
burnt  up;  the  rivers  and  creeks  are  dry;  the  buffalo,  elk 
and  deer  withdraw  to  distant  spots,  keep  upon  the  edge  of 
the  expiring  verdure,  and  leave  behind  them  only  a  vast 
uninhabited  solitude,  cut  up  by  ravines  and  old  beds  of 

8  Irving.     This  paragraph  and  the  next  are  from  chapter  XXII  of 
Astoria,  very  httle  modified. 


208         IRVING's    plan    for    the    TRANS-MISSISSIPPI. 

Streams,  which  only  serve  now  to  torment  the  traveler 
and  augment  his  thirst.  At  long-  intervals  the  monotony 
of  this  great  desert  is  interrupted  by  heaps  of  stones, 
piled  in  confusion,  hke  ruins;  or  perhaps  it  is  traversed  by 
ridges  of  rocks,  rising  up  before  the  traveler  Hke  insur- 
mountable barriers;  such  are  the  Black  Hills.  Beyond 
rise  the  Rocky  Mountains,  the  boundaries  of  the  Atlantic 
world.  The  gorges  and  valleys  of  this  vast  chain  give 
a  refuge  to  a  great  number  of  savage  tribes,  some  of  which 
are  but  the  mutilated  remainders  of  different  peoples, 
formerly  peaceful  possessors  of  the  prairies,  now  driven 
back  by  war  into  almost  inaccessible  defiles,  where  the 
spoiler  ceases  at  length  to  pursue  them. 

It  seems  that  this  western  desert,  such  as  I  have  de- 
scribed it,  must  forever  defy  the  industry  of  civilized  man. 
There  are  perhaps  some  places,  more  fortunately  situated 
upon  the  banks  of  rivers,  where  agriculture  could  be  suc- 
cessfully practiced;  others  might  be  converted  into  grazing 
lands  as  fertile  as  those  of  the  east;  but  it  is  to  be  feared 
that,  with  very  little  exception,  this  immense  region  is 
nothing  more  than  an  ocean  between  civilization  and  bar- 
barism, where  bands  of  malefactors,  organized  like  the 
caravans  of  the  Arabs,  may  work  their  depredations  with 
impunity.  Some  day  perhaps  it  may  be  the  cradle  of  a 
new  people,  composed  of  the  old  savage  races  and  of  this 
class  of  adventurers,  of  the  fugitive  and  the  banished, 
thrust  out  from  the  bosom  of  society,  a  heterogeneous  and 
menacing  population,  which  the  American  Union  is  piling 
up  like  a  sinister  cloud  upon  its  frontiers,  increasing  con- 
tinually its  strength  and  its  irritation  by  transporting 
whole  tribes  of  Indians  from  their  birthplace  on  the  banks 
of  the  Mississippi,  into  the  places  of  exile  assigned  them 
among  these  western  solitudes.  These  savages  bring 
with  them  an  implacable  hatred  of  the  whites,  who,  they 
say,  have  driven  them  from  their  own  country,  far  from 
the  burial-places  of  their  fathers,  that  they  may  take  un- 
just possession  of  their  heritage.     If  some  of  these  tribes 


CHIMNEY    ROCK.  209 

should  some  day  form  into  hordes  like  the  nomadic  peo- 
ples, half  shepherd,  half  warrior,  who  range  the  plateaus 
of  Asia  with  their  herds,  is  it  not  to  be  feared  that  in  time 
others  may  organize  themselves  into  bands  of  robbers  and 
assassins,  with  the  swift  horses  of  the  prairies  for  coursers, 
the  desert  for  the  theater  of  their  brigandage,  and  inac- 
cessible rocks  for  a  safe  refuge  for  their  lives  and  their 
booty? 

On  the  31st  of  May  we  camped  two  miles  and  a  half 
from  one  of  the  most  remarkable  curiosities  of  this  savage 
region.  It  is  a  cone-shaped  eminence  of  not  far  from  a 
league  in  circumference,  gashed  by  many  ravines  and 
standing  upon  a  smooth  plain.  From  the  summit  of  this 
hill  rises  a  square  shaft,  thirty  to  forty  feet  through  by 
150  in  height;  the  form  of  this  column  has  given  it  the 
name  of  the  Chimney;  it  is  175  yards  above  the  plain,  and 
may  be  perceived  from  thirty  miles  away.  The  Chimney 
is  composed  of  clay  in  a  petrified  state,  interspersed  with 
layers  of  white  and  grayish  sandstone.  It  seems  to  be 
the  remnant  of  a  lofty  mountain  which  the  winds  and  the 
storms  have  been  wearing  down  for  ages ;  a  few  years  more 
and  this  great  natural  curiosity  will  crumble  away  and 
make  only  a  little  heap  on  the  plain;  for  when  it  is  ex- 
amined near  at  hand,  an  enormous  crack  appears  in  its 
top.^  In  the  neighborhood  of  this  wonder,  all  the  hills 
present  a  singular  aspect;  some  have  the  appearance  of 
towers,  castles  and  fortified  cities.  From  a  little  distance, 
one  can  hardly  persuade  himself  that  art  is  not  mingled  in 
them  wuth  the  fantasies  of  nature.  Bands  of  the  ashata,  an 
animal  called  also  grosse-cornc,  or  bighorn,  have  their  abode 
in  the  midst  of  these  bad  lands.  The  Chimney,  with  its 
castles  and  fantastic  cities,  forms  the  termination  of  a  high 
ridge,  which  runs  from  south  to  north.  We  found  a  nar- 
row passage  through  between  two  perpendicular  cliffs 
300  feet  in  height. 

®  The  Chimney,  though  still  crumbling,  remains  a  conspicuous  object 
in  1903. 

14 


210  FIRST    SIGHT    OF    THE    MOUNTAINS. 

This  region  abounds  in  magnesia,  insomuch  that  Glau- 
ber's salt  is  found  almost  everywhere,  and  in  several  places 
in  great  quantities  in  a  crystallized  state.  Rattle-snakes 
and  other  dangerous  reptiles,  which  are  met  with  at  every 
step,  would  be  a  scourge  to  the  country,  if  the  savages 
had  not  discovered,  in  a  root  that  is  very  common  in  these 
parts,  an  infallible  specific  against  all  poisonous  bites. ^*^ 

Although  we  were  still  three  days'  journey  from  the 
Black  Hills,"  they  were  already  distinctly  visible.  Every- 
where we  were  in  the  midst  of  buffalo.  If  the  earth  is 
thankless  and  yields  but  little,  Providence  has  provided  in 
a  different  way  for  the  subsistence  of  the  Indians  and  trav- 
elers who  traverse  these  regions.  We  killed  without  any 
trouble  six  buffalo  a  day  for  the  forty  persons  who  con- 
stituted our  camp.  In  all  my  travels  I  have  never  wearied 
of  watching  with  admiration  these  truly  majestic  animals, 
with  their  rugged  necks,  shoulders  and  heads.  If  their 
peaceable  nature  was  not  known,  their  aspect  alone  would 
terrify  one.  But  they  are  timid  and  without  malice,  and 
never  offer  to  do  any  harm,  except  in  their  own  defense, 
when  they  are  wounded  and  hard  pressed.  Their  strength 
is  extraordinary,  and  though  they  appear  clumsy,  they  run 
notwithstanding  with  great  speed;  it  takes  a  good  horse  to 
follow  them  very  far. 

In  this  same  region,  bands  of  wild  or  runaway  horses 
are  very  numerous;  much  skill  and  a  long-winded  horse 
are  required  to  catch  them.  The  Spanish-Mexicans  and, 
as  a  rule,  the  Indians,  are  expert  in  this  kind  of  chase;  it  is 
seldom  that  they  miss  casting  their  lasso  about  an  animal's 
neck,  though  at  full  speed. 

On  the  4th  of  June,  we  crossed  the  Fourche-a-la- 
Ramee,^^    [Laramie    fork]     one    of    the    principal    tribu- 

10  Probably  the  blackroot,  spoken  of  on  p.  663. 

11  This  term,  at  present  practically  restricted  to  the  Black  Hills  of 
South  Dakota,  was  at  first  applied  to  all  the  secondary  mountain 
systems  of  southeastern  Wyoming. 

12  Laramie   river  takes  its  name  from  a  trapper  by  the   name  of 


THE    CHEYENNES     HEARTS    ARE   GLAD.  211 

taries  of  the  Platte,  in  a  buffalo  canoe,  or  bull-boat.  Here 
we  found  some  forty  lodges  of  the  Cheyennes,  who  re- 
ceived us  with  all  the  signs  of  good  will  and  esteem;  they 
were  polite,  cleanly  and  decent  in  their  manners.  The 
men  in  general  are  of  great  stature,  straight  and  vigorous; 
they  have  aquiline  noses  and  strongly  marked  chins.  The 
history  of  this  nation^^  is  that  of  all  the  wild  tribes  of  the 
prairies;  they  are  the  remnant  of  the  powerful  nation  of 
the  Shaways  that  once  dwelt  upon  that  Red  river  which 
flows  into  Lake  Winnipeg.  The  Sioux,  their  irreconcil- 
able enemies,  forced  them  after  a  long  war  to  cross  the 
I^Iissouri  and  take  refuge  on  a  little  river  called  Warrikane, 
where  they  fortified  themselves;  but  the  conquerors  again 
attacked  them  there,  and  drove  them  from  post  to  post, 
to  the  midst  of  the  Black  Hills,  upon  the  waters  of  the 
Big  Cheyenne.  In  the  course  of  these  reverses,  the  tribe 
lost  even  its  name;  it  is  at  present  known  only  by  that  of 
the  river  which  they  frequent.  They  make  no  more  efforts 
to  establish  a  permanent  abode,  for  fear  of  another  attack 
from  their  cruel  enemies.  They  have  embraced  the  no- 
madic life,  live  by  the  chase  and  follow  the  buffalo  in  his 
migrations. 

The  head  chiefs  of  this  village  invited  me  to  a  feast,  and 
put  me  through  all  the  ceremonies  of  the  calumet,  as  fol- 
lows: first  they  give  the  Great  Spirit  to  smoke,  holding 
the  pipe  toward  the  heavens,  then  toward  the  sun,  the 
earth  and  the  water;  then  the  calumet  goes  the  rounds  of 
the  lodge  three  times;  it  passes  from  hand  to  hand,  and 
every  one  takes  half  a  dozen  puffs.  Then  the  chief  em- 
braced me  and  greeted  me,  saying,  "  Black-robe,  my  heart 
was  very  glad  when  I  learned  who  you  were.     Never  has 

Larame,  Joseph  Laramee,  as  one  writer  gives  it,  who  lost  his  life  on 
the  stream  in  1821.  The  name  was  a  frequent  one  among  the  voy- 
ageurs,  and  is  often  met  with  in  the  American  Fur  Company  cor- 
respondence. 

i»From  chapter  XXIII  of  Astoria.  The  "  Shaways  "  are  not  known 
to  present-day  ethnologists. 


212  BOILED    DOG    NOT    BAD. 

my  lodge  seen  a  greater  day.  As  soon  as  I  received  the 
news  of  your  coming,  I  had  my  big  kettle  filled  to  give 
you  a  feast  in  the  midst  of  my  warriors.  Be  welcome.  I 
have  had  my  three  best  dogs  killed  in  your  honor;  they 
were  very  fat."  Do  not  wonder  when  I  tell  you  that  this 
is  their  great  feast,  and  that  the  flesh  of  the  wild  dog  is 
very  delicate  and  extremely  good;  it  much  resembles  that 
of  a  young  pig.  The  portion  bestowed  upon  me  was 
large;  the  two  thighs  and  the  paws,  with  five  or  six  ribs; 
the  law  of  the  feast  required  me  to  eat  it  all,  but  it  was  too 
much  for  me.  Finally  I  learned  that  one  may  get  rid  of 
his  dish  by  passing  it  to  another  guest,  with  a  present  of 
tobacco. 

I  took  the  opportunity  to  speak  to  them  of  the  princi- 
pal points  of  religion;  I  explained  to  them  the  ten  com- 
mandments of  God  and  several  articles  of  the  creed.  I 
made  known  to  them  the  object  of  my  journey  to  the 
mountains,  asking  whether  they  also  did  not  desire  to  have 
Black-robes  among  them,  to  teach  their  children  to  know 
and  serve  the  Great  Spirit.  The  proposition  seemed  to 
please  them  greatly,  and  they  answered  that  they  would 
do  what  they  could  to  render  the  stay  of  the  Black-robes 
among  them  agreeable.  I  believe  that  a  zealous  mis- 
sionary would  meet  with  very  good  success  among  these 
savages.  Their  language  is  said  to  be  very  difficult;  they 
are  about  2,000  in  number.  The  neighboring  nations 
consider  these  Indians  the  most  courageous  warriors  of 
the  prairies. 

Fort  la  Ramee  [Laramie]  ^^  is  at  the  foot  of  the  Black 

1*  Fort  Laramie  dates  from  1834.  In  that  year  William  L.  Sublette 
built  a  fort  at  the  mouth  of  the  Laramie  river  and  called  it  Fort  Wil- 
liam. Soon  after  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  American  Fur  Company 
and  was  christened  Fort  John  for  John  B.  Sarpy.  In  1846  it  seems  to 
have  been  abandoned  and  another  built  in  its  stead  a  mile  farther  up 
stream,  and  to  this  the  name  Fort  Laramie  was  given.  About  1849 
the  post  was  sold  to  the  United  States  and  the  famous  military  post 
of  Fort  Laramie  began  its  career. 


^  THE    DECEPTIVE    ROCKIES.  213 

Hills.  There  is  nothing  observable,  either  in  the  color  of 
the  soil  of  these  mountains  or  in  that  of  the  rocks,  that 
can  have  given  them  this  name;  they  owe  it  to  the  sombre 
verdure  of  the  little  cedars  and  pines  that  shade  their  sides. 
The  vegetable  soil  along  the  rivers  and  in  the  valleys  is 
rather  good;  the  uplands  are  very  sterile  and  almost  en- 
tirely covered  with  blocks  of  granite,  quartz,  marcasite** 
and  other  kinds  of  rock  commingled,  showing  clearly  that 
at  some  remote  time  there  have  been  great  subterranean 
convulsions  in  this  region. 

From  la  Ramee  [Laramie]  a  range  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains forty  miles  away  is  visible.  It  stands  5,000  feet 
above  the  plain.  Every  day  the  thermometer  rose  to 
80°  and  90°  in  the  valleys  of  these  mountains;  while  their 
summits  were  covered  with  snow.  I  was  often  deceived  in 
regard  to  distances;  sometimes  I  wished  to  examine  more 
closely  a  big  rock  or  an  odd-looking  hill;  I  started  for  it 
expecting  to  reach  it  in  an  hour;  and  it  took  me  at  least 
two  or  three  hours.  This  must  be  due  to  the  great  purity 
of  the  atmosphere  in  the  prairies  of  this  high  region. 

Absinthe  [artemisia;  sage-brush]  is  a  spontaneous  prod- 
uct of  this  country;  it  grows  to  a  height  of  eight  to  ten 
feet,  and  in  so  great  abundance  that  it  makes  traveling  in 
carts  quite  inconvenient.  Wild  cherries,  gooseberries  and 
service  berries  (an  excellent  little  black  fruit)  are  also  very 
plentiful.  The  elder  grows  in  ravines.  Two  kinds  of 
Cottonwood  are  common  in  the  bottoms.  On  the  banks 
of  rivers  and  the  slopes  of  mountains,  groves  of  pines 
and  cedars  are  seen. 

On  the  14th,  [June,  1840]  we  camped  at  the  foot  of  the 
Red  Butte.  This  is  a  very  lofty  hill,  of  a  red  ochre  color, 
composed  of  clay  in  a  petrified  state,  and  is  a  central  point 
for  the  savages,  who  pass  and  repass  it  on  their  travels 
westward  and  northward.  The  northern  branch  of  the 
Platte,  which  we  had  been  following  thus  far,  here  takes 

1"  Native  bisulphide  of  iron;  prismatic  iron  pyrites. 


214  INDEPENDENCE   ROCK. 

a  southerly  direction;  its  source  is  150  miles  farther  up. 
From  the  Red  Butte  we  crossed  over  a  high  ridge  to  the 
Sweetwater/^  or  Riviere-de-l'Eau-douce,  so  called  from 
the  great  purity  of  its  waters.  The  most  remarkable  spot 
upon  this  river  is  the  famous  Independence  Rock;^'  it  is 
the  first  massive  rock  of  that  famous  mountain  chain  which 
divides  North  America,  and  which  travelers  call  the  back- 
bone of  the  universe.  It  is  composed  of  granite  i)i  situ  of  a 
prodigious  thickness,  and  covers  several  miles  of  ground; 
it  is  entirely  exposed  from  top  to  bottom.  It  is  the  great 
register  of  the  desert;  the  names  of  all  the  travelers  who 
have  passed  by  are  there  to  be  read,  written  in  coarse 
characters ;  mine  figures  among  them,  as  that  of  the  first 
priest  to  reach  this  remote  spot. 

For  several  days  now  we  had  on  our  right  a  chain  of 
those  naked  rocks,  so  properly  called  Rocky  iMountains. 
They  are  nothing  but  rocks  heaped  upon  rocks;  you  think 

16  The  name  of  this  stream  dates  from  the  period  of  Ashley's  expe- 
ditions. A  fitting  explanation  of  its  origin  might  easily  be  given  even 
in  the  absence  of  any  historic  data.  The  water  in  the  adjacent  country 
for  many  miles  around  is  so  impregnated  with  alkaline  salts  as  to  be 
unfit  to  drink.  The  thirsty  traveler,  coming  suddenly  upon  this  stream 
of  pure  mountain  water,  would  very  naturally  by  contrast  call  it  the 
Sweetwater.  But  the  French  name,  as  first  given,  was  not  Eau  Douce, 
but  Eau  Sucre,  sugared  water,  and  arose,  according  to  Ferris,  from 
the  fact  that  in  the  very  early  years,  certainly  before  1830,  a  pack  mule 
laden  with  sugar  was  lost  in  the  stream. 

17  Independence  Rock  was  a  famous  landmark.  It  is  an  immense 
oblong  block  of  oval,  but  irregular  shape,  along  the  southern  base  of 
which  lay  the  river  and  along  the  northern  base  the  old  Trail.  It 
covers  an  area  of  over  twenty-seven  acres  and  its  highest  point  is  155 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  river.  It  is  wholly  isolated  and  looks  as  if 
it  had  been  dropped  there  in  the  midst  of  the  plain.  The  site  of  the 
rock  became  from  the  first  a  great  camping  place,  and  the  custom 
early  arose  of  inscribing  on  it  the  names  of  travelers  who  passed  it. 
It  was  named  before  1830  from  the  circumstance  of  a  party  of  American 
trappers  having  celebrated  the  Fourth  of  July  at  its  base. 

The  granite  of  the  rock  is  not  durable,  and  though  a  multitude  of 
names  appear  upon  it,  few,  if  any,  dating  back  more  than  twenty-five 
or  thirty  years  are  now  legible  (1903). 


SOUTH    PASS.  215 

you  have  before  your  eyes  the  ruins  of  a  whole  world,  cov- 
ered with  the  eternal  snows  as  with  a  shroud.  On  the 
19th,  we  descried  the  Wind  [or  Wind  River]  Mountains, 
in  which  is  the  rendezvous  of  the  caravan  and  its  point  of 
separation  as  well;  but  we  were  still  nine  days'  journey 
from  the  place.  Every  day  we  became  aware  that  it  was 
growing  colder  and  colder,  and  on  the  24th  [of  June]  we 
traversed  plains  covered  with  snow.  On  the  day  follow- 
ing we  passed  [South  Pass]  from  the  waters  tributary  to 
the  Missouri  to  those  of  the  Colorado,  which  flows  into  the 
Pacific  Ocean  by  way  of  California,  two  degrees  farther 
south  than  New  Orleans.  The  pass  across  the  mountains 
is  almost  imperceptible;  it  is  five  to  twenty-five  miles  in 
width,  and  eighty  in  length.  These  mountains  are  calcu- 
lated to  be  twenty  to  twenty-four  thousand  feet  above  the 
Atlantic  Ocean.^® 

18  The  Wind  River  range  corLstitutes  a  massive  and  rugged  system 
of  mountains  between  Wind  and  Green  rivers.  It  was  a  very  noted 
range  during  all  the  period  of  Father  De  Smet's  travels.  Their  alti- 
tude, however,  is  greatly  overstated  by  Father  De  Smet  who  here  fol- 
lows Captain  Bonneville.  Fremont  Peak,  the  highest  of  the  range,  is 
only  13,790  feet  high. 


CHAPTER  11. 

GREEN   RIVER   RENDEZVOUS    TO    THREE    FORKS   OF   MISSOURI. 

The  rendezvous  on  Green  river  —  First  meeting  with  the  Flatheads 
—  Makes  friends  also  with  the  Snakes  —  Their  manners  and  customs  — 
Four  days'  rest  on  Green  river  —  Sets  out  with  the  Flatheads  for  their 
country  —  A  veteran  of  Napoleon's  —  Jackson's  Little  Hole — Crossing 
Snake  river  in  a  bag — Pierre's  Hole  —  The  home  camp  —  Amiable 
Indians  —  Religious  labors  —  Gratifying  results  —  Across  the  mountains 
into  Montana  —  The  plain  of  the  Three  Forks. 

/^N  the  30th  I  came  to  the  rendezvous,^  where  a  band  of 
^^  Flatheads,  who  had  been  notified  of  my  coming,^ 
were  already  waiting  for  me.  This  happened,  as  I  said 
further  back,  on  Green  river,  a  tributary  of  the  Colorado ; 
it  is  the  place  whither  the  beaver-hunters  and  the  savages 
of  different  nations  betake  themselves  every  year  to  sell 
their  peltries  and  procure  such  things  as  they  need. 

I  will  now  give  you  a  short  account  of  the  customs, 
characters  and  locations  of  the  several  mountain  tribes, 
according  to  my  own  observations  and  the  best  informa- 
tion that  I  have  been  able  to  obtain. 

The  Shoshones,  or  Root-diggers,  called  also  Snakes, 
were  present  at  the  rendezvous  in  great  numbers.     They 

^  The  rendezvous  was  one  of  the  most  interesting  developments  of 
the  fur  trade  in  the  Rocky  Mountains.  It  arose  from  the  necessity  of 
carrying  the  trade  into  regions  remote  from  navigable  rivers,  where 
boats  could  not  carry  the  annual  merchandise  nor  bring  back  the  furs. 
The  transportation  was  done  by  annual  caravans  from  the  States,  and 
rendezvous  were  appointed  for  each  year  at  points  convenient  for  the 
trappers  and  Indians  to  meet  the  traders.  These  meetings  were  great 
events  and  form  one  of  the  most  picturesque  features  of  early  frontier 
life  in  the  Far  West. 

2  By  Peter  Left  Hand,  one  of  the  two  members  of  the  fourth  "  Flat- 
head embassy,"  who  preceded  him  to  announce  his  coming,  while  the 
other  envoy.  Young  Ignace,  remained  to  accompany  Father  De  Smet. 

[216] 


THE  SNAKES  ARE  FRIENDLY.  21/ 

inhabit  the  southern  part  of  the  territory  of  Oregon,  in 
the  vicinity  of  upper  CaHfornia.  Their  population  of 
about  10,000  souls  is  divided  into  several  bands,  scattered 
here  and  there  over  the  barrenest  country  in  all  the  region 
\vest  of  the  mountains;  almost  all  the  surface  is  covered 
with  scoria  and  other  volcanic  products.  They  are  called 
Snakes  by  reason  of  their  poverty,  which  reduces  them  to 
burrow  in  the  ground  like  those  reptiles  and  to  live  upon 
roots.  Occasionally  a  hunting-party  will  come  east  of  the 
mountains  to  hunt  buffalo,  and  at  the  season  when  the  fish 
come  up  from  the  sea,  they  go  down  to  the  banks  of 
Salmon  river  and  its  tributaries  to  lay  in  their  winter 
stock.  They  are  pretty  well  provided  with  horses.  At 
the  rendezvous  they  gave  a  parade  to  greet  the  whites  that 
were  there.  Three  hundred  of  their  warriors  came  up  in 
good  order  and  at  full  gallop  into  the  midst  of  our  camp. 
They  were  hideously  painted,  armed  with  their  clubs,  and 
covered  all  over  with  feathers,  pearls,  wolves'  tails,  teeth 
and  claws  of  animals,  outlandish  adornments,  with  which 
each  one  had  decked  himself  out  according  to  his  fancy. 
Those  who  had  wounds  received  in  war,  and  those  who  had 
killed  the  enemies  of  their  tribe,  displayed  their  scars  os- 
tentatiously and  waved  the  scalps  they  had  taken  on  the 
ends  of  poles,  after  the  manner  of  standards. 

After  riding  a  few  times  around  the  camp,  uttering  at 
intervals  shouts  of  joy,  they  dismounted  and  all  came  to 
shake  hands  with  the  whites  in  sign  of  friendship.  I  was 
invited  to  a  council  by  some  thirty  of  the  principal  chiefs. 
Just  as  among  the  Cheyennes,  we  had  first  to  go  through 
all  the  ceremonies  of  the  calumet.  To  begin,  the  chief 
made  a  little  circle  on  the  ground,  placed  within  it  a  small 
piece  of  burning  dried  cow-dung,  and  lit  his  pipe  from  it. 
Then  he  offered  the  pipe  to  the  Great  Spirit,  to  the  sun, 
to  the  earth  and  the  four  cardinal  points.  All  the  others 
observed  a  most  profound  silence  and  sat  motionless  as 
statues.  The  calumet  passed  from  hand  to  hand,  and  I 
noticed  that  each  one  had  a  different  way  of  taking  it. 


2l8  SNAKES  ALMOST   PERSUADED. 

One  turned  the  calumet  around  before  putting  the  stem  to 
his  mouth;  the  next  made  a  half-circle  as  he  accepted  it; 
another  held  the  bowl  in  the  air;  a  fourth  lowered  it  to  the 
ground,  and  so  on.  I  am  naturally  inclined  to  laughter, 
and  I  must  confess  that  on  this  occasion  I  had  to  make 
serious  efforts  not  to  break  out,  as  I  watched  the  gravity 
observed  by  these  poor  savages  in  the  midst  of  all  these 
ridiculous  affectations.  These  forms  of  smoking  enter  into 
their  superstitious  religious  practices;  each  one  has  his 
own,  from  which  he  would  never  dare  deviate  all  his  life 
long,  for  fear  of  displeasing  his  Manitous. 

I  made  known  to  them  the  motives  of  my  visit,  the  com- 
mandment which  God  had  given  the  Black-robes  to  go 
and  preach  his  holy  law  to  all  the  nations  of  the  earth,  the 
obligation  that  all  peoples  were  under  to  follow  it  as  soon 
as  it  was  known  to  them,  the  everlasting  happiness  which 
it  brings  to  all  who  follow  it  faithfully  unto  death,  and 
hell  with  all  its  torments,  which  would  be  the  lot  of  whom- 
soever should  close  his  ears  to  the  word  of  Jesus  Christ. 
I  laid  before  them  the  advantages  which  they  would  re- 
ceive from  a  mission,  and  I  ended  by  preaching  to  them 
the  principal  points  of  Christianity. 

The  savages  paid  the  greatest  attention,  and  appeared 
struck  with  wonder  at  the  holy  doctrine  that  I  had  been 
explaining  to  them.  They  then  took  counsel  among 
themselves  for  the  space  of  half  an  hour,  when  the  spokes- 
man, in  the  name  of  all  the  chiefs,  addressed  me  in  the 
following  words :  "  Black-gown,  your  words  have  entered 
our  hearts;  they  will  never  go  out  from  them.  We  wish 
to  know  and  practice  the  sublime  law  that  you  have  just 
made  known  to  us,  in  the  name  of  the  Great  Spirit,  whom 
we  love.  All  our  country  is  open  to  you,  you  need  only 
choose  to  settle  an  establishment.  We  will  all  of  us  leave 
the  plains  and  the  forests,  to  come  and  put  ourselves  under 
your  orders,  about  you."  I  advised  them,  while  awaiting 
that  happy  day,  to  choose  wise  men  in  their  several  camps, 
to  perform  the  prayers  in  common  evening  and  morning; 


SOME  SNAKE  CUSTOMS.  219 

since  thereby  the  good  chiefs  would  find  occasion  to  incite 
all  the  people  to  virtue.  That  very  evening  they  assem- 
bled, and  the  head  chief  promulgated  a  law,  that  whoever 
in  future  should  steal  or  commit  any  other  scandal  should 
be  punished  in  public. 

The  Snakes  believe  the  especial  residence  of  the  Great 
Spirit  to  be  in  the  sun,  in  fire  and  in  the  earth.  When  they 
make  a  solemn  promise,  they  take  the  sun,  the  fire  and  the 
earth  to  witness  their  undertaking.  When  a  chief  or  war- 
rior of  the  nation  dies,  his  wives,  children  and  nearest  rel- 
atives cut  olT  their  hair;  that  is  their  full  mourning.  They 
even  clip  the  manes  and  tails  of  all  the  dead  man's  horses, 
giving  the  poor  animals  a  most  sorry  appearance.  Then 
they  make  a  pile  of  all  his  possessions  in  the  middle  of  the 
lodge,  cut  the  poles  that  support  it  into  little  pieces  and 
burn  all  his  property  at  once.  The  corpse  is  tied  upon 
his  favorite  horse,  and  led  down  to  the  edge  of  the  neigh- 
boring river.  There  the  warriors  chase  the  animal,  sur- 
round him  closely  and  utter  such  horrible  yells  that  they 
force  him  to  leap  into  the  current  with  his  master's  body. 
Then,  yelling  all  the  louder,  they  tell  him  to  transport  his 
master  without  delay  to  the  land  of  souls.  Nor  is  that  all: 
to  testify  to  their  sorrow,  they  cut  themselves  in  all  the 
fleshy  parts  of  their  bodies;  and  the  greater  their  attach- 
ment to  the  departed  the  deeper  are  the  gashes.  I  have 
been  assured  that  they  claim  that  their  sorrow  escapes 
through  these  wounds.  Would  you  believe  that  these 
same  people,  who  feel  the  death  of  a  relative  so  keenly, 
have,  like  the  Sioux,  the  Pawnees  and  most  nomadic 
tribes,  the  barbarous  custom  of  abandoning  the  old  and 
the  sick  pitilessly  to  the  ferocious  beasts  of  the  desert,  as 
soon  as  they  begin  to  be  in  the  way  in  their  hunting 
expeditions? 

While  I  was  in  their  camp,  the  Snakes  were  making 
ready  for  an  expedition  against  the  Blackfeet.  As  soon 
as  the  chief  had  announced  to  all  the  young  warriors  his 
resolution  to  carry  the  war  into  the  enemy's  country,  all 


220  VIOLENCE   OF  SNAKE   LADIES. 

who  proposed  to  follow  him  prepared  their  rations,  moc- 
casins, bows  and  arrows.  The  evening  before  their  de- 
parture, the  chief,  at  the  head  of  his  soldiers,  performed 
his  farewell  dance  at  every  lodge;  everywhere  he  received 
a  piece  of  tobacco  or  some  other  present.  If  they  take 
any  women  prisoners  on  these  expeditions,  they  carry 
them  to  camp  and  hand  them  over  to  their  wives,  mothers 
and  sisters.  These  women  immediately  butcher  them 
with  their  hatchets  and  knives,  vomiting  upon  the  poor 
wretches,  in  their  frantic  rage,  the  most  crushing  and  out- 
rageous language.  "  Oh!  Blackfoot  bitches,"  they  cry: 
"  If  we  could  only  eat  the  hearts  of  all  your  young  ones, 
and  bathe  in  the  blood  of  your  cursed  nation!  "  ^  *  *  * 
Never  in  my  life  have  I  enjoyed  so  many  consolations 
as  during  my  stay  among  these  good  Flatheads  and  Pend 
d'Oreilles;  the  Lord  has  amply  compensated  for  all  the 
privations  and  sufferings  that  I  had  endured  in  this  long 
and  laborious  journey.  I  have  spoken  further  back  of 
having  found  a  deputation  from  these  two  tribes  at  the 
rendezvous  on  Green  river.  Those  good  Indians  had 
come  to  meet  me  to  serve  as  an  escort  in  this  country,  so 
dangerous  to  travel.  Our  meeting  was  not  that  of  strang- 
ers, but  of  friends;  it  was  like  children  running  to  meet 
their  father  after  a  long  absence.  I  wept  with  joy  at  em- 
bracing them,  and  they  also,  with  tears  in  their  eyes,  wel- 
comed me  with  tenderest  expressions.  With  a  truly 
patriarchal  simplicity,  they  told  me  all  the  little  news  of 
their  nation,  their  almost  miraculous  preservation  in  a 
fight  between  sixty  of  their  warriors  and  200  Black- 
feet,  a  fight  that  lasted  five  days,  and  in  which  they 
had  killed  fifty  of  their  enemies  without  losing  a  single 
man.  "  We  fought  like  brave  men,"  they  told  me,  "  in 
the  desire  to  see  you;  the  Great  Spirit  took  pity  on  us,  he 
helped  us  to  remove  dangers  from  the  path  that  is  to  lead 
you  to  our  camp.     The  Blackfeet  will  not  trouble  us  again 

3  For  omitted  portion  of  the  letter,  see  p.  989. 


ACQUIRES   A  GRENADIER.  221 

for  a  while;  they  went  away  weeping.  Our  brothers  are 
burning  with  impatience  to  see  you."  We  thanked  the 
Lord  together  for  having  preserved  us  thus  far  in  the 
midst  of  so  many  dangers,  and  implored  his  protection 
in  the  long  journey  that  we  had  yet  to  make. 

I  had  stayed  four  days  on  Green  river  to  allow  my 
horses  time  to  recover  from  their  fatigue,  to  give  good, 
wholesome  advice  to  the  Canadian  hunters,  who  seem  to 
be  in  great  need  of  it,  and  to  talk  with  the  Indians  of 
various  nations.  On  the  4th'*  of  July,  I  resumed  my  trav- 
els, with  my  Flatheads;  ten  brave  Canadians  also  chose  to 
accompany  me.  A  good  Fleming  from  Ghent,  Jean-Bap- 
tiste  de  Velder,  an  old  grenadier  of  Napoleon,  who  had 
left  his  fatherland  thirty  years  ago,  and  had  passed  the  last 
fourteen  in  the  mountains  in  the  capacity  of  beaver-hunter, 
generously  offered  to  serve  and  aid  me  in  all  my  journey- 
ings.  He  was  resolved,  he  told  me,  to  pass  the  rest  of  his 
days  in  the  practice  of  his  holy  religion.  He  had  almost 
forgotten  the  Flemish  language,  except  his  prayers  and  a 
hymn  in  Flemish  verses  in  honor  of  Mary,  which  he  had 
learned  as  a  child  on  his  mother's  knees,  and  which  he 
recited   every   day. 

Three  days  we  ascended  Green  river,  and  on  the  8th  we 
crossed  it,  heading  for  an  elevated  plain  which  separates 
the  waters  of  the  Colorado  from  those  of  the  Columbia. 
In  this  plain,  as  in  all  mountain  valleys  that  I  have  tra- 
versed, flax  grows  in  the  greatest  abundance;  it  is  just  the 
same  as  the  flax  that  is  cultivated  in  Belgium,  except  that 
it  is  an  annual;  the  same  stalk,  calix,  seed  and  blue  flower, 
closing  by  day  and  opening  in  the  evening.  On  leaving 
this  plain,  we  descended  several  thousand  feet  by  a  trail 
and  arrived  in  Jackson's  Hole.^  The  slope  of  the  sur- 
rounding mountains  abounds  in  the  rarest  plants,  and 
offers  the  amateur  botanist  a  superb  collection.     The  val- 

*6th  in  one  of  the  English  letters. 

'^  This  was  not  Jackson's  Hole,  but  a  much  smaller  valley  near  the 
head  of  Hoback  river,  called  Jackson's  Little  Hole. 


222  A  CURIOUS   CRAFT. 

ley  is  seventeen  miles  long  by  five  or  six  wide.  Thence 
we  passed  into  a  narrow  and  extremely  dangerous  defile, 
which  was  at  the  same  time  picturesque  and  sublime. 
Mountains  of  almost  perpendicular  cliffs  rise  to  the  region 
of  perpetual  snow,  and  often  overhang  a  rugged  and  nar- 
row path,  where  every  step  threatens  a  fall.  We  followed 
it  for  seventeen  miles,  upon  a  mountain  side  inclined  at  an 
angle  of  45°  over  a  torrent  which  rushed  uproariously  in 
cascades,  hundreds  of  feet  below  our  route.  The  defile 
was  so  narrow,  and  the  mountains  on  either  hand  so  high, 
that  the  sun  could  scarcely  penetrate  it  for  an  hour  or  two 
of  the  day.  Pine  forests  like  those  of  Norway,  balsam 
firs,  ordinary  poplars,  cedars,  mulberry  trees  and  many 
other  varieties  cover  the  sides  of  these  mountains. 

On  the  loth,  after  crossing  the  lofty  mountain,  we  arrived 
upon  the  banks  of  Henry's  Fork.  [Snake  river]  one  of  the 
principal  tributaries  of  Snake  [Columbia]  river.*^  The 
mass  of  snow  melted  during  the  July  heat  had  swollen  this 
torrent  to  a  prodigious  height.  Its  roaring  waters  rushed 
furiously  down  and  whitened  with  their  foam  the  great 
blocks  of  granite  which  vainly  disputed  the  passage  with 
them.  The  sight  intimidated  neither  our  Indians  nor  our 
Canadians;  accustomed  to  perils  of  this  sort,  they  rushed 
into  the  torrent  on  horseback  and  swam  it.  I  dared  not  ven- 
ture to  do  likewise.  To  get  me  over,  they  made  a  kind  of 
sack  of  my  skin  tent ;  then  they  put  all  my  things  in  and  set 
me  on  top  of  it.  The  three  Flatheads  who  had  jumped  in 
to  guide  my  frail  bark  by  swimming,  told  me,  laughing,  not 
to  be  afraid,  that  I  was  on  an  excellent  boat.  And  in  fact 
this  machine  floated  on  the  water  like  a  majestic  swan;  and 
in  less  than  ten  minutes  I  found  myself  on  the  other  bank, 
where  we  encamped  for  the  night. 

The  next  day  we  had  another  high  mountain  to  climb 
through  [Teton  Pass]  a  thick  pine  forest,  and  at  the  top 
we  found  snow,  which  had  fallen  in  the  night  to  the  depth 

€  Father  De  Smet  is  in  error  here  and  later  on,  page  228,  in  applying 
the  name  Henry  to  the  main  Snake  river. 


ARRIVAL  AT  FLATHEAD  CAMP.  22^ 

of  two  feet.  This  is  a  very  remarkable  thing  in  this  region ; 
when  it  rains  in  the  valley  in  summer,  snow  falls  in  big 
flakes  on  the  mountains.  In  descending  into  the  great  val- 
ley known  as  Pierre's  Hole/  we  found  the  trail  very  steep 
and  slippery.  The  horses  and  mules  of  the  mountains  are 
very  skilful  in  these  kinds  of  dangerous  passages;  just  let 
them  alone  and  you  are  safe;  a  rider  who  should  persist  in 
guiding  them  in  these  circumstances  would  be  at  every  step 
in  danger  of  breaking  his  neck. 

In  the  mountain  valleys,  the  soil  is  generally  nearly  black, 
but  sometimes  yellow.  It  is  often  found  mixed  with  marl 
and  marine  substances  in  a  decomposed  state.  This  kind 
of  soil  extends  to  a  great  depth,  as  may  be  seen  in  the  vast 
cuttings  of  the  ravines  and  upon  the  banks  of  rivers.  The 
vegetation  in  these  valleys  is  very  abundant.  It  is  a  land 
where  the  geologist  beholds  evidences  of  the  extensive  action 
of  volcanic  forces,  and  much  also  that  is  of  interest  in  the 
various  formations  of  lava,  etc. 

One  day's  travel  in  the  great  valley  of  Pierre's  Hole 
brought  us  to  the  camp  of  the  Flatheads  and  the  Pend 
d'Oreilles.  The  poles  were  already  up  for  my  lodge,  and  at 
my  approach  men,  women  and  children  came  all  together 
to  meet  me  and  shake  hands  and  bid  me  welcome ;  the  num- 
ber of  them  was  about  i,6oo.  The  elders  wept  with  joy, 
while  the  young  men  expressed  their  satisfaction  by  leaps 
and  shouts  of  happiness.  These  good  savages  led  me  to  the 
lodge  of  the  old  chief,  called  in  his  language  Big  Face.  He 
had  a  truly  patriarchal  aspect,  and  received  me  in  the  midst 
of  his  whole  council  with  the  liveliest  cordiality.      Then  he 

^  Pierre's  Hole  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful,  and  in  early  times  was 
one  of  the  most  celebrated,  valleys  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The 
trappers  always  called  the  mountain  valleys  "  holes."  Pierre's  Hole 
lies  just  west  of  the  Teton  Mountains  and  is  about  twenty-five  miles 
long  by  five  to  fifteen  broad.  It  was  named  from  an  Iroquois  trapper 
who  discovered  it.  It  was  a  favorite  resort  for  the  traders,  trappers 
and  Indians  and  several  rendezvous  were  held  there.  The  famous 
battle  of  Pierre's  Hole,  between  the  Blackfeet  Indians  on  one  side 
and  the  trappers  and  Flathead  Indians  on  the  other,  took  place  in  1832. 


224  THEY  RESPOND  READILY. 

addressed  me  the  following  remarks,  which  I  report  to  you 
word  for  word,  to  give  you  an  idea  of  his  eloquence  and  his 
character :  "  Black-robe,  you  are  welcome  in  my  nation. 
Today  Kyleeeyou®  (the  Great  Spirit)  has  fulfilled  our 
wishes.  Our  hearts  are  big,  for  our  great  desire  is  gratified. 
You  are  in  the  midst  of  a  poor  and  rude  people,  plunged  in 
the  darkness  of  ignorance.  I  have  always  exhorted  my 
children  to  love  Kyleeeyou.  We  know  that  everything  be- 
longs to  him,  and  that  our  whole  dependence  is  upon  his  lib- 
eral hand.  From  time  to  time  good  white  men  have  given 
us  good  advice,  and  we  have  followed  it;  and  in  the  eager- 
ness of  our  hearts,  to  be  taught  everything  that  concerns 
our  salvation,  we  have  several  times  sent  our  people  to  the 
great  Black-robe  at  St.  Louis  (the  bishop)  that  he  might 
send  us  a  Father  to  speak  with  us. —  Black-robe,  we  will 
follow  the  words  of  your  mouth." 

Then  I  had  a  long  talk  on  religion  with  these  honest  folk ; 
I  explained  to  them  the  object  and  advantages  of  my  mis- 
sion, and  the  necessity  of  settling  permanently  in  a  fertile 
and  suitable  spot.  All  expressed  the  greatest  satisfaction 
and  showed  much  eagerness  to  exchange  the  bow  and  quiver 
for  the  spade  and  plow.  I  set  a  schedule  of  spiritual  exer- 
cises for  them,  particularly  for  the  morning  and  evening 
prayers  in  common,  and  for  the  hours  of  instruction.  One 
of  the  chiefs  at  once  brought  me  a  bell  to  give  the  signals, 
and  on  the  first  evening  I  gathered  all  the  people  about  my 
lodge.  I  made  known  to  them  my  conversation  with  their 
chiefs,  the  plan  which  I  meant  to  follow  for  their  instruction, 
and  the  necessary  frame  of  mind  that  the  Great  Spirit  re- 
quired of  them  to  comprehend  and  practice  the  holy  law  of 
Jesus  Christ,  who  alone  could  save  them  from  the  torments 
of  hell,  make  them  happy  on  earth  and  procure  them  after 
this  life  eternal  happiness  with  God  in  heaven.  After  that 
I  said  the  evening  prayers,  and  finally  they  sang  together, 
in  a  harmony  which  surprised  me  very  much,  and  which  I 

8  Kaikolinzoeten   (Our  God)   in  the  English  vereion.     The  word  in 
the  text  means  Our  Father. 


A  PATERNAL  CHIEF. 


■^^b 


thought  admirable  for  savages,  several  songs  of  their  own 
composition,  on  the  praise  of  God.  It  would  be  impossible  to 
describe  to  you  the  emotions  that  I  felt  at  this  moment. 
How  touching  it  is  for  a  missionary  to  hear  the  benefac- 
tions of  the  Most  High  proclaimed  by  poor  children  of  the 
forests,  who  have  not  yet  had  the  happiness  of  receiving  the 
light  of  the  gospel ! 

Every  morning,  at  daybreak,  the  old  chief  was  the  first  to 
rise ;  then  mounting  a  horse  he  rode  up  and  down  the  camp 
to  harangue  his  people.  This  is  a  custom  that  he  has  always 
observed,  and  I  think  it  has  kept  these  Indians  in  the  great 
unity  and  admirable  simplicity  that  are  observed  among 
them.  These  i,6oo  persons,  thanks  to  his  fatherly  care  and 
good  advice,  seemed  to  form  but  a  single  family,  in  which 
order  and  charity  reigned  in  a  truly  surprising  manner. 
"  Come,  courage,  my  children,"  he  cried,  "  open  your  eyes. 
Address  your  first  thoughts  and  words  to  the  Great  Spirit. 
Tell  him  that  you  love  him,  and  ask  him  to  take  pity  on  you. 
Courage,  for  the  sun  is  about  to  appear,  it  is  time  you  went 
to  the  river  to  wash  yourselves.  Be  prompt  at  our  Father's 
lodge,  at  the  first  sound  of  the  bell ;  be  quiet  w'hen  you  are 
there;  open  your  ears  to  hear  and  your  hearts  to  hold  fast 
all  the  words  that  he  says  to  you."  Then  he  would  ad- 
minister fatherly  rebukes  for  anything  he  and  the  other 
chiefs  had  observed  that  was  out  of  order  in  their  conduct 
the  day  before.  At  the  voice  of  this  old  man,  whom  all 
love  and  respect  like  a  tender  father,  they  would  hasten  to 
arise;  all  would  be  in  motion  in  the  village,  and  in  a  few 
minutes  the  banks  of  the  river  would  be  covered  with  people. 

When  all  were  ready,  I  rang  the  bell  for  prayer,  and  from 
the  first  day  to  the  last  they  continued  to  show  the  same 
avidity  to  hear  God's  word.  Their  eagerness  was  so  great 
that  they  would  run  to  get  a  good  place;  even  the  sick  got 
themselves  carried  thither.  What  a  lesson  for  the  cowardly 
and  pusillanimous  Christians  of  the  old  Catholic  countries, 
who  have  always  plenty  of  time  for  coming  to  the  divine 
services,  and  think  they  do  enough  if  they  are  in  time  for 
15 


226  THE  NATION  LEARNS  ITS  PRAYERS. 

the  first  gospel  and  get  the  benediction  at  the  Ite  missa  est; 
or  for  those  who  make  a  pretext  of  the  least  sickness,  or  of 
a  show  of  bad  weather  to  excuse  themselves  from  attending 
the  holy  mass  and  their  pastors'  sermons ! 

This  zeal  for  prayer  and  instruction  (and  I  preached  to 
them  regularly  four  times  a  day)  instead  of  declining,  in- 
creased up  to  the  time  of  my  departure.  They  told  me  often 
that  it  was  their  delight  to  hear  the  word  of  God.  The  day 
after  my  arrival  among  them,  I  had  nothing  more  urgent 
to  do  than  to  translate  the  prayers  into  their  language,  with 
the  aid  of  a  good  interpreter  [Gabriel  Prudhomme].  Fif- 
teen days  later,  at  instructions,  I  promised  a  medal  to  the 
first  who  should  be  able  to  recite  without  a  mistake  the 
Pater,  the  Ave,  the  Credo,  the  ten  commandments  of  God 
and  the  four  acts.  A  chief  rose :  "  Father,"  he  said, 
"  your  medal  belongs  to  me."  And  to  my  great  surprise, 
he  recited  all  these  prayers  without  missing  a  word;  I  em- 
braced him  and  made  him  my  catechist.  The  good  savage 
put  so  much  zeal  and  perseverance  into  his  task  that  in  less 
than  ten  days  the  whole  nation  knew  their  prayers. 

During  my  stay  among  this  good  people,  I  have  had  the 
happiness  of  regenerating  nearly  600  of  them  in  the  saving 
waters  of  baptism ;  all  [the  others]  ardently  desired  to  obtain 
the  same  favor :  and  their  dispositions  were  without  doubt 
excellent ;  but  since  the  absence  of  missionaries  could  only 
be  momentary,  I  thought  it  prudent  to  put  them  off  until  the 
following  year,  to  give  them  a  high  idea  of  the  dignity  of 
the  sacrament,  and  to  try  them  in  regard  to  the  indissolu- 
bility of  the  bonds  of  marriage,  which  is  an  unknown  thing 
among  the  Indian  nations  of  America ;  for  they  often  part  for 
the  most  frivolous  causes.  Among  the  adults  baptized  were 
the  two  head  chiefs  of  the  Flatheads  and  Pend  d'Oreilles, 
both  octogenarians.  Before  bestowing  the  holy  sacra- 
ment upon  them,  as  I  was  urging  them  to  renewed  repent- 
ance for  their  sins,  Walking  Bear,  the  second  of  the  two 
named,  answered  me :  "  When  I  was  young,  and  even  as 
I  became  old,  I  was  plunged  in  profound  ignorance  of  good 


VIRTUES   OF  THE   FLATHEADS.  22/ 

and  evil,  and  in  that  period  I  must  no  doubt  have  displeased 
the  Great  Spirit;  I  sincerely  implore  pardon  of  him.  But 
every  time  I  have  perceived  that  a  thing  was  bad,  I  have 
at  once  banished  it  from  my  heart.  I  do  not  remember  ever 
in  my  life  to  have  deliberately  offended  the  Great  Spirit." 
Are  there  in  our  Europe  many  Christians  who  could  give 
this  testimony  of  themselves? 

I  was  not  able  to  discover  among  these  people  the  slightest 
blameworthy  act,  unless  it  was  their  gambling,  in  which 
they  often  venture  everything  they  possess.  These  games 
were  unanimously  abolished,  as  soon  as  I  had  explained  to 
them  that  they  were  contrary  to  the  commandment  of  God, 
saying :  "  Ye  shall  not  covet  anything  that  is  your  neigh- 
bor's." They  are  scrupulously  honest  in  their  buying  and 
selling ;  they  have  never  been  accused  of  having  committed 
a  theft ;  everything  that  is  found  is  taken  to  the  lodge  of  the 
chief,  who  cries  the  articles  and  returns  them  to  the  owner. 
Slander  is  unknown  even  among  the  women ;  lying  is  hateful 
to  them  beyond  anything  else.  They  fear,  they  say,  to 
offend  God,  and  that  is  why  they  have  only  one  heart,  and 
they  abhor  a  "  forked  tongue;"  a  liar.  Quarrels  and  fits 
of  rage  are  severely  punished.  No  one  suffers  without  his 
brothers  interesting  themselves  in  his  trouble  and  coming  to 
his  succor ;  accordingly,  they  have  no  orphans  among  them. 
They  are  polite,  always  of  a  jovial  humor,  very  hospitable, 
and  helpful  to  one  another  in  their  duties.  Their  lodges  are 
always  open  to  any  one ;  they  do  not  so  much  as  know  the  use 
of  keys  and  locks.  One  single  man,  by  the  influence  which 
he  has  justly  acquired  by  his  bravery  in  fight  and  his  wis- 
dom in  the  council,  leads  the  whole  tribe ;  he  has  no  need  of 
guards,  nor  bolts,  nor  iron  bars,  nor  state  prisons.  I  have 
often  asked  myself :  "  Is  it  these  people  whom  the  civilized 
nations  dare  to  call  by  the  name  of  savages?  "  Wherever 
I  have  met  Indians  in  those  remote  regions,  I  have  found 
them  very  teachable  in  everything  adapted  to  better  their 
condition.  The  vivacity  of  their  young  people  is  surprising, 
and  the  amiability  of  their  characters  and  their  dispositions 


228  THINGS    SEEN    EY    THE    WAY. 

aiD(Hig  themselves  are  remarkable.  People  have  too  long 
been  aocastraned  to  judge  the  savages  of  the  interior  by 
those  of  the  frontier;  these  last  have  learned  the  vices  of 
the  whites,  who.  guided  by  the  insatiable  thirst  for  sordid 
gain,  eodeavor  to  corrupt  them  and  encourage  them  by  their 
example. 

I  found  the  camp  of  the  Flatheads  and  Pend  d'Oreilles 
in  the  valley  called  Pierre's  Hole.  This  vallej-  is  situated 
at  the  foot  of  the  three  Tetons,®  sharp-peaked  moimtains  of 
a  prodigious  height,  rising  almost  perpendicularly  more  than 
10,000  feet,  and  covered  with  perpetual  snow.  There 
are  five  of  them,  but  only  three  can  be  seen  at  any  great  dis- 
tance. Thence  we  ascended  one  of  the  principal  forks  of 
Henry's  [Fork  of  Snake]  river,^*^  making  ever}"  day  little 
canqis  nine  or  ten  miles  apart.  Often,  in  these  little  stages, 
we  passed  and  repassed  high  hills,  wide  and  swift  torrents, 
narrow  and  dangerous  defiles.  Often  also  we  came  upon 
lovdy  valleys,  level  and  open,  rich  in  pasture  grounds  of  a 
beautifcil  verdure,  dotted  viith  flowers,  and  where  the  moun- 
tain holsam  (the  travelers"  tea)  abounds.  This  tea,  even 
after  it  has  been  crushed  beneath  the  feet  of  thousands  of 
horses,  still  perfumes  the  air  with  its  delicious  scent.  In  the 
vaDeys  and  defiles  which  we  traversed,  several  more  moun- 
tains drew  our  attention;  some  were  in  the  form  of  cones, 
rising  to  a  height  of  several  thousand  feet  at  an  angle  of 
forty-five  to  fift}-  degrees,  very"  smooth  and  covered  with  a 
fair  verdure ;  others  represented  domes :  others  were  red  as 
well-burned  brick,  and  still  bore  the  imprints  of  some  great 
oonvulsicm  of  nature;  there  were  scoria  and  lava  so  porous 
that  they  floated  on  water :  they  vrere  found  scattered  in  all 

--■7-=    ~t'--    ?{■-■:-:-:-.-  are   the   most   interesting,   historically   and 

: :  -  T  -       r      -    ■  -  T    '/ '  :  t :  States.      The   principal    summit,   the   Grand 

It:;-          '     \- :    ""r-  ~     'rison  Hole   (named  for  the  fur  trader, 

Di-    _  .  :         '            _  :  rated  valley  at  the  eastern  base  of  the 

-  lL~ti  ::r  /-r::rt--.  Henry,  a  fur  trader,  who  built  a  fort  in  its 
vLt     :n  the  fall  of  l8ia 


THE  CONTINENTAL  DIVIDE.  229 

directions,  and  so  abundantly  in  some  places  that  they 
seemed  to  have  filled  whole  valleys.  In  several  places  the 
openings  of  ancient  craters  were  still  to  be  distinguished. 
The  argillaceous  and  volcanic  strata  of  the  mountains  are 
generally  horizontal ;  but  in  several  places  they  hang  perpen- 
dicularly, or  else  they  are  curved  or  wavy ;  often  one  might 
take  them  for  artificial  works. 

On  the  22d  of  July  the  camp  came  to  Henry's  lake,  one 
of  the  principal  sources  of  the  Columbia;  it  is  about  ten 
miles  in  circumference.  We  climbed  on  horseback  the  moun- 
tain that  parts  the  waters  of  two  great  rivers ;  the  Missouri, 
which  is  properly  speaking  the  main  branch  of  the  Missis- 
sippi and  flows  with  it  into  the  Gulf  of  ^lexico,  and  the 
Columbia,  which  bears  the  tribute  of  its  waters  to  the  Pacific 
Ocean.  From  the  elevated  spot  at  which  I  was  I  could  easily 
distinguish  Mosquito  lake,^^  source  of  one  of  the  main 
branches  of  the  north  fork  of  the  ^lissouri,  called  Jefferson 
River. 

The  two  lakes  are  scarce  eight  miles  apart.  I  started 
for  the  summit  of  a  high  mountain,  for  a  better  examina- 
tion of  the  fountains  that  give  birth  to  these  two  great 
rivers ;  I  saw  them  falling  in  cascades  from  an  immense 
height,  hurling  themselves  with  uproar  from  rock  to  rock; 
even  at  their  source  they  formed  already  two  mighty  tor- 
rents, scarcely  more  than  a  hundred  paces  apart.  I  was 
bound  to  get  to  the  top.  After  six  wearisome  hours,  I 
found  myself  exhausted ;  I  think  I  must  have  climbed  more 
than  5,000  feet;  I  had  passed  snow  drifts  more  than  twenty 
feet  deep,  and  still  the  mountain  top  was  at  a  great  height 
above  me.  I  therefore  saw  myself  compelled  to  give  up 
my  plan,  and  I  found  a  place  to  sit  down.  The  fathers  of 
the  Company  who  are  in  the  missionary  serv^ice  on  the  banks 
of  the  Mississippi  and  its  tributaries,  from  Council  Bluffs 
to  the  Gulf  of  ^Mexico,  came  to  my  mind.    I  wept  with  joy 

11  Le  lac  des  Maringouins ;  Red  Rock  lake.  This  lake  is  the  most 
distant  from  the  sea,  by  river  channel,  of  any  lake  upon  the  globe. 
It  is  the  ultimate  source  of  the  Missouri. 


230  CATHOLICS  MUST  MAKE   HASTE. 

at  the  happy  memories  that  were  aroused  in  my  heart.  I 
thanked  the  Lord  that  he  had  deigned  to  favor  the  labors  of 
his  servants,  scattered  over  this  vast  vineyard,  imploring  at 
the  same  time  his  divine  grace  for  all  the  nations  of  Oregon, 
and  in  particular  for  the  Flatheads  and  Pend  d'Oreilles, 
who  had  so  recently  and  so  heartily  ranged  themselves  un- 
der the  banner  of  Jesus  Christ.  I  engraved  upon  a  soft 
stone  this  inscription  in  large  letters :  Sanctus  Ignatius 
Patronus  Montnun.    Die  Jitlii  22,,  1840. 

I  said  a  mass  of  thanksgiving  at  the  foot  of  this  moun- 
tain, surrounded  by  my  savages,  who  intoned  chants  to  the 
praise  of  God,  and  installed  myself  in  the  land  in  the  name 
of  our  holy  founder.  Let  us  implore  his  aid,  that  through 
his  intercession  in  heaven,  this  immense  desert,  which  of- 
fers such  great  hopes,  may  speedily  be  filled  with  worthy 
and  unwearying  laborers.  To-day  is  the  accepted  time  to 
preach  the  gospel  to  these  different  nations.  The  apostles 
of  Protestantism  are  beginning  to  crowd  in  and  pick  out  the 
best  places,  and  soon  the  cupidity  and  avarice  of  civilized 
man  will  make  the  same  inroads  here  as  in  the  east,  and  the 
abominable  influence  of  the  vices  of  the  frontier  will  in- 
terpose the  same  barrier  to  the  introduction  of  the  gospel, 
which  all  the  savages  seem  to  have  a  great  desire  to  know, 
and  which  they  will  follow  with  fidelity,  like  the  Flatheads 
and  Pend  d'Oreilles. 

During  all  my  stay  in  the  mountains,  I  said  the  holy  mass 
regularly  Sundays  and  feast-days,  as  well  as  on  days  when 
the  Indians  did  not  break  camp  in  the  morning;  the  altar 
was  made  of  willows ;  my  blanket  made  an  altar  cloth,  and 
all  the  lodge  was  adorned  with  images  and  wild  flowers; 
the  Indians  knelt  without  in  a  circle  of  about  200  feet,  sur- 
rounded by  little  pines  and  cedars,  set  out  expressly;  they 
took  assiduous  part  with  the  greatest  modesty,  attention 
and  devotion,  and  since  various  nations  were  among  them, 
they  chanted  the  praises  of  God  in  the  Flathead,  Nez  Perce 
and  Iroquois  languages.  The  Canadians,  my  Fleming  and 
I  sang  chants  in  French,  English  and  Latin.     The  Flat- 


THE    PLAIN    OF    THE   THREE    FORKS.  23I 

heads  had  aheady  had  for  some  years  a  custom  of  never 
breaking  camp  on  Sunday,  but  of  passing  that  day  in  de- 
votional exercises. 

On  the  24th  of  July,  the  camp  crossed  the  mountain  and 
moved  from  Henry's  lake  to  Mosquito  [Red  Rock]  lake. 
Until  the  8th  of  August,  we  were  still  traveling  through 
a  great  variety  of  country.  Now  we  would  find  ourselves 
in  open,  smiling  valleys,  now  in  sterile  lands  beyond  lofty 
mountains  and  narrow  defiles,  sometimes  in  extensive  high 
plains,  profusely  covered  with  blocks  and  fragments  of 
granite. 

On  the  loth  we  camped  on  Jefferson  river.  The  bottom 
is  rich  in  lovely  pasture  lands  and  wooded  with  trees  of 
thin  growth.  We  went  down  it,  making  twelve  to  fifteen 
miles  a  day,  and  on  the  21st  of  the  same  month  we  came  to 
the  junction  of  the  three  forks  of  the  Missouri,  where  that 
river  first  takes  this  name ;  we  camped  on  the  middle  branch 
[Madison  Fork].  In  this  great  and  beautiful  plain  were 
buft'alo  in  numberless  herds.  From  Green  river  to  this 
place,  our  Indians  had  made  their  food  of  roots  and  the 
flesh  of  such  animals  as  the  red  and  black-tailed  deer,  elk, 
gazelle,  bighorn  or  mountain  sheep,  grizzly  and  black  bear, 
badger,  rabbit  and  panther,  killing  also  occasionally  such 
feathered  game  as  grouse,  prairie-hens  (a  kind  of  pheasant), 
swans,  geese,  cranes  and  ducks.  Fish  abounded  besides  in 
the  rivers,  particularly  salmon  trout.  But  cow-meat  is  the 
favorite  dish  of  all  the  hunters,  and  as  long  as  they  can  find 
it,  they  never  kill  any  other  animals.  Finding  themselves 
therefore  in  the  midst  of  abundance,  the  Flatheads  prepared 
to  lay  in  their  winter  supply;  they  raised  willow  scaffolds 
about  their  lodges  for  drying  meat,  and  every  one  made 
ready  his  fire-arm,  his  bow  and  his  arrows.  Four  hundred 
horsemen,  old  and  young,  mounted  on  their  best  horses, 
started  early  in  the  morning  for  their  great  hunt.  I  chose 
to  accompany  them  in  order  to  watch  this  striking  spectacle 
from  near  at  hand.  At  a  given  signal,  they  rode  at  full 
gallop  among  the  herds ;  soon  everything  appeared  confusion 


232  SOMETHING  ABOUT   BUFFALO. 

and  flight  all  over  the  plain ;  the  hunters  pursued  the  fattest 
COWS,  discharged  their  guns  and  let  fly  their  arrows,  and  in 
three  hours  they  killed  more  than  500.  Then  the  women, 
the  old  men  and  the  children  came  up,  and  with  the  aid  of 
horses  carried  off  the  hides  and  the  meat,  and  soon  all  the 
scaffolds  were  full  and  gave  the  camp  the  aspect  of  a  vast 
butcher-shop.  The  buffalo  are  hard  to  kill;  they  must  be 
w'ounded  in  the  vital  parts.  A  ball  that  strikes  a  bull's  fore- 
head produces  no  other  effect  than  a  movement  of  the  head 
and  a  greater  exasperation;  on  the  other  hand,  one  that 
strikes  the  forehead  of  a  cow  penetrates.  Several  bulls, 
mortally    wounded    in    this    hunt,     defended    themselves 

furiously.^^ 

*****  **** 

12  For  omitted  portion  of  this  letter,  see  p.  looi. 


CHAPTER  III. 

RETURN  FROM  THREE  FORKS  TO  ST.  LOUIS. 

Affecting  departure  from  the  Flatheads  —  Across  Bozeman  Pass  to 
the  Yellowstone  —  Danger  from  prowling  Indians  —  Meets  a  camp  of 
the  Crows  —  Two  days'  observations  of  that  tribe  —  More  Crows  on 
the  Big  Horn  —  Their  poor  prospects  in  the  next  world  —  Flathead 
escort  returns  from  first  trading  post  —  Alone  with  the  grenadier  in  the 
desert  —  Fort  Union  —  Mandan  village — Geological  curiosities  —  An 
account  of  the  Aricaras  —  Medicine  feats  —  Encounters  with  the  Sioux 
—  Their  friendliness  —  Ten  days  in  a  canoe  among  floating  ice  — 
Council  Bluffs,  Westport  and  St.  Louis. 

'^HE  27th  of  August  [1840]  was  the  day  I  had  set  for 
^^  my  departure.  Seventeen  warriors,  selected  braves  of 
the  two  nations,  stood  early  in  the  morning  at  the  entrance 
to  my  lodge  with  three  chiefs.  The  council  of  the  elders 
had  deputed  them  to  serve  as  my  escort  for  so  long  as  I 
should  find  myself  in  the  country  of  the  Blackfeet  and 
Crows,  two  nations  so  hostile  to  the  whites,^  that  the  first 
give  them  no  quarter  when  they  meet  them,  but  massacre 
them  in  the  crudest  manner;  the  second  take  from  them 
everything  they  have,  strip  them  to  the  shirt  and  leave  them 
in  the  desert  to  perish  of  hunger  and  misery ;  sometimes 
they  grant  them  life  but  make  them  prisoners.  Long  before 
sunrise  all  the  nation  was  assembled  around  my  lodge;  no 
one  spoke,  but  grief  was  painted  on  each  face.  The  only 
thing  I  could  say  that  seemed  to  console  them  was  a  formal 
promise  of  a  prompt  return  in  the  following  spring,  and  of 
a  reinforcement  of  several  missionaries.  I  performed  the 
morning  prayers  amid  the  weeping  and  sobs  of  those  good 

1  This  is  true  of  the  Blackfeet  but  not  of  the  Crows,  who  were 
always  friendly  to  the  whites,  except  that  they  never  hesitated  to  rob 
them  of  horses. 

[233] 


234  PARTING    FROM    THE    FLATHEADS. 

savages.  They  drew  from  me  despite  myself  the  tears  that 
I  would  gladly  have  stifled  for  the  moment.  I  made  them 
see  the  necessity  for  my  voyage;  I  urged  them  to  continue 
serving  the  Great  Spirit  with  fervor  and  to  put  from  them 
every  cause  of  scandal;  I  recalled  to  them  the  principal 
truths  of  our  holy  religion.  After  this  I  gave  them  for 
their  spiritual  head  a  very  intelligent  Indian,  whom  I  had 
taken  pains  to  instruct  myself  in  a  most  particular  manner ; 
he  was  to  represent  me  in  my  absence,  call  them  together 
evening  and  morning,  as  well  as  Sundays,  say  the  prayers 
to  them,  exhort  them  to  virtue,  and  anoint  the  dying,  and, 
in  case  of  need,  little  children.  There  was  but  a  single  voice, 
a  unanimous  assent  to  all  my  recommendations.  With  tears 
in  their  eyes  they  all  wished  me  a  fortunate  journey.  Old 
Big-Face  rose  and  said :  "  Black-robe,  may  the  Great 
Spirit  accompany  you  in  your  long  and  dangerous  journey. 
We  will  offer  vows  evening  and  morning  that  you  may  ar- 
rive safe  among  your  brothers  at  St.  Louis.  We  will  con- 
tinue to  offer  vows  until  you  return  to  your  children  of  the 
mountains.  When  the  snows  disappear  from  the  valleys, 
after  the  winter,  when  the  grass  begins  to  be  green  again, 
our  hearts,  so  sad  at  present,  will  begin  to  rejoice.  As  the 
grass  grows  higher,  our  joy  will  become  greater ;  but  when 
the  flowers  appear,  we  will  set  out  to  come  and  meet  you. 
Farewell." 

Full  of  trust  in  the  Lord  who  had  preserved  me  thus  far, 
I  started  with  my  little  band  and  my  faithful  Fleming,  who 
chose  to  continue  sharing  my  dangers  and  my  labors.  For 
two  days  we  were  going  up  the  Gallatin,  the  southern 
[eastern]  fork  of  the  Missouri ;  thence  we  crossed  by  a  nar- 
row pass^  thirty  miles  in  length  to  the  Yellowstone  river,  the 
second  of  the  great  tributaries  of  the  Missouri.     Here  it 

2  Father  De  Smet  crossed  Bozeman  Pass,  the  immemorial  route  of 
of  travel  between  the  Gallatin  fork  of  the  Missouri  and  the  Yellow- 
stone river,  at  the  point  where  the  latter  stream  turns  sharply  east 
from  its  long  northerly  course.  The  Northern  Pacific  railroad  crosses 
the  divide  by  means  of  a  tunnel  3,600  feet  long  near  the  pass. 


SOME  BEAR  STORIES.  235 

was  needful  to  take  the  greatest  precautions;  this  is  why 
we  formed  only  a  little  band.  We  had  to  cross  plains  that 
stretched  out  of  sight,  sterile  and  arid  lands,  cut  up  with 
deep  ravines,  where  at  every  step  one  might  come  upon 
enemies  lying  in  wait.  Scouts  were  sent  out  in  every  di- 
rection to  reconnoiter  the  country;  all  traces,  whether  of 
men  or  of  animals,  were  attentively  examined.  It  is  here 
that  one  cannot  but  admire  the  sagacity  of  the  savage;  he 
will  tell  you  what  day  an  Indian  has  passed  by  the  spot 
where  he  sees  his  tracks,  he  will  calculate  the  number  of 
men  and  of  horses,  he  will  make  out  whether  it  was  a  war 
or  hunting  party;  he  wall  even  recognize,  from  the  impres- 
sion of  their  footgear,  to  what  nation  they  belonged.  Every 
evening  we  chose  a  favorable  place  to  pitch  our  camp,  and 
built  in  haste  a  little  fort  with  trunks  of  dead  trees,  to  shelter 
us  from  a  sudden  attack. 

This  region  is  the  range  of  the  grizzly  bear,  the  most 
terrible  animal  of  this  desert;  at  every  step  we  came  upon 
their  terrifying  tracks.  One  of  our  hunters  killed  one  and 
brought  him  to  camp;  his  paws  were  thirteen  inches  in 
length,  and  each  claw  seven.  The  strength  of  this  animal 
is  surprising;  an  Indian  has  assured  me  that  with  a  single 
blow  of  his  paw  he  has  seen  one  of  these  bears  tear  away 
four  ribs  from  a  buffalo,  which  fell  dead  at  his  feet.  An- 
other of  my  company  was  passing  on  the  run  near  a  dense 
willow  thicket  (the  retreat  of  the  bears  when  they  have 
their  young)  when  a  she-bear  rushed  furiously  upon  his 
horse,  put  her  formidable  paw  upon  his  croup,  and  rending 
the  flesh  to  the  bone  overturned  him  with  his  rider.  Luckily 
for  my  man,  he  gained  his  feet  in  a  flash,  gun  in  hand,  and 
had  the  satisfaction  of  seeing  his  terrible  adversary  retreat 
into  the  willows  as  hastily  as  she  had  come  forth.  It  is, 
however,  rare  for  a  bear  to  attack  a  man,  unless  the  latter 
comes  suddenly  upon  him  or  wounds  him.  If  he  is  allowed 
to  pass  without  harm,  he  retires,  showing  that  the  fear  of 
man  is  upon  him,  as  upon  all  the  other  animals. 

For  several  days  our  route  lay  through  the  Yellowstone 


236  DOWN  THE  YELLOWSTONE  VALLEY. 

bottoms.  Buffalo  were  scarce,  for  war-parties  had  traversed 
the  same  plains  a  few  days  previously.  All  the  country 
along  this  river  is  very  gravelly  and  full  of  round  and  ob- 
long boulders,  shaped  by  the  water;  here  and  there  little 
patches  of  woods  were  seen  in  the  distance  on  the  banks  of 
rivers. 

Below  the  mouth  of  Clark's  Fork  the  Yellowstone  is 
hemmed  in  by  high  cliffs.  We  climbed  them  by  a  narrow 
trail  to  gain  the  uplands,  or  rather  a  chain  of  rough  hills, 
which  we  were  six  days  crossing.  In  this  march  we  suffered 
much  from  thirst.  We  found  all  the  springs  exhausted  and 
the  beds  of  the  streams  dry.  The  whole  region  was  cov- 
ered with  loose  fragments  of  volcanic  rocks;  scarcely  a 
trace  of  vegetation  could  be  observed.  Little  elevations  and 
banks  of  sand  appeared  at  intervals,  lightly  covered  with 
red  cedars  of  a  slim  growth ;  but  as  a  rule  we  saw  no  other 
vegetation  than  a  small  and  stunted  weed,  pommcs  de 
raquette  (a  kind  of  thorny  cactus)  and  some  varieties  of 
plants,  which,  like  the  cactus,  grow  best  in  the  driest  and 
most  ungrateful  soil.  Fragments  from  the  high  hills  and 
rocks,  angular  slabs  of  sandstone,  were  everywhere  heaped 
upon  the  ground  as  ice-cakes  are  found  heaped  up  on  the 
sand-bars  and  banks  of  rivers ;  often  they  rose  in  lone  pyra- 
mids or  resembled  obelisks  of  different  forms. 

As  we  went  on,  we  perceived  frequent  tracks  of  horses. 
On  the  5th  of  September  we  came  to  a  place  where  numerous 
troop  of  horsemen  had  passed  an  hour  before.  Were  they 
allies  or  enemies?  Right  here  I  will  remark  that  in  these 
solitudes,  though  the  howling  of  wolves,  the  hissing  of 
venomous  serpents  and  the  roaring  of  the  tiger  and  grizzly 
bear  are  capable  of  freezing  one  with  terror,  this  fear  is 
nothing  in  comparison  with  that  which  fresh  tracks  of  men 
and  horses  can  arouse  in  the  soul  of  the  traveler,  or  the 
columns  of  smoke  that  he  sees  rising  round  about  him. 
In  an  instant  the  escort  came  together  to  deliberate;  every 
one  examined  his  fire-arm,  whetted  his  knife  and  the  points 
of  his  arrows  and  made  all  preparations  for  a  resistance  to 


CROWS  IN  MOURNING.  237 

the  death;  for  to  surrender  in  such  an  encounter  would  be 
to  expose  one's  self  to  perish  in  the  most  frightful  torments. 
We  resolved  to  follow  the  trail,  determined  to  know  who 
were  ahead  of  us;  it  led  us  to  a  heap  of  stones  piled  up  on 
a  little  eminence.  Here  more  signs  were  manifest;  these 
stones  were  colored  with  freshly  shed  blood ;  my  savages 
surrounding  them,  examined  them  with  serious  attention. 
The  head  chief,  a  man  with  much  sense,  presently  said  to 
me,  "  Father,  I  think  I  can  explain  to  you  what  we  see  be- 
fore us.  The  Crows  are  not  far  away;  we  shall  see  them 
in  two  hours.  If  I  am  not  mistaken,  we  are  upon  one  of 
their  battlefields ;  their  nation  will  have  met  with  some  great 
loss  here.  This  heap  of  stones  has  been  raised  to  the  memory 
of  the  warriors  who  have  fallen  under  the  blows  of  their 
enemies.  Here  the  mothers,  wives,  sisters,  daughters  of  the 
dead  (you  see  their  traces)  have  come  to  weep  over  their 
graves.  It  is  their  custom  to  tear  their  faces,  cut  their  arms 
and  legs  and  shed  their  blood  upon  these  stones,  rending 
the  air  at  the  same  time  with  their  cries  and  lamentations." 

He  was  not  mistaken ;  presently  we  perceived  a  consider- 
able troop  of  savages  some  three  miles  off.  They  were  in 
fact  Crows  returning  to  their  camp,  after  having  paid  the 
tribute  of  blood  to  forty  of  their  warriors,  massacred  two 
years  before  by  the  Blackfeet.  Since  they  are  just  at  present 
allies  of  the  Flatheads,  they  received  us  with  the  greatest 
transports  of  joy.  Soon  we  met  groups  of  women  covered . 
with  dried  blood,  and  so  disfigured  that  they  aroused  at  once 
compassion  and  horror.  They  repeat  this  scene  of  mourn- 
ing for  several  years,  whenever  they  pass  near  the  tombs 
of  their  relations  and  so  long  as  the  slightest  spot  of  blood 
remains  on  their  bodies  they  may  not  wash  themselves. 

The  Crow  chiefs  received  us  with  cordiality  and  gave  us 
a  great  feast.  The  conversation  was  really  pleasing;  the 
languages  of  the  two  nations  being  different,  it  was  carried 
on  by  signs.  All  the  tribes  of  this  part  of  America  know 
the  system  and  understand  one  another  perfectly.  Presently 
the  Crows  desired  to  buy  the  Flathead's  handsome  horses. 


238  HORSES   AXD   HORSE-THIEVES. 

This  is  how  a  bargain  was  conchided  before  my  eyes.  A 
young  Crow  chief,  of  gigantic  stature  and  covered  with  his 
gayest  raiment,  advanced  to  the  midst  of  the  gathering, 
leading  his  horse  by  the  bridle,  and  placed  it  in  front  of  the 
Flathead,  as  if  to  olTer  it  in  exchange  for  his.  The  latter 
giving  no  sign  of  approval,  the  Crow  then  laid  at  his  feet 
his  gun,  then  his  scarlet  robe,  then  all  his  ornaments  one 
after  another,  then  his  leggings  too,  and  finally  his  moc- 
casins. Then  the  Flathead  took  the  horse  by  the  bridle, 
picked  up  the  goods,  and  the  bargain  was  concluded  with- 
out a  word  being  said.  The  Crow  chief,  though  despoiled  of 
all  his  fine  clothes  and  plumage,  leaped  with  joy  upon  his 
new  courser  and  ran  him  around  the  camp  several  times, 
uttering  yells  of  triumph  and  trying  the  horse  at  all  his 
gaits. 

The  main  wealth  of  the  western  Indians  consists  of 
horses;  every  chief  and  warrior  owns  a  great  number  of 
them,  which  may  be  seen  grazing  in  herds  about  their  camps. 
They  are  objects  of  trade  for  them  in  time  of  peace  and  of 
booty  in  war,  so  that  they  often  pass  from  one  tribe  to  an- 
other at  a  very  great  distance.  The  horses  that  the  Crows 
have  are  principally  from  the  wild  races  of  the  prairies; 
but  they  had  stolen  some  from  the  Sioux,  the  Cheyennes 
and  other  tribes  of  the  southwest,  who  in  turn  had  got  them 
from  the  Spanish  in  their  raids  into  the  Mexican  territory. 
The  Crows  are  considered  the  most  indefatigable  marauders 
of  the  plains ;  they  cross  and  recross  the  mountains  in  every 
direction,  carrying  to  one  side  what  they  have  stolen  on  the 
other.  This  is  how  they  get  the  name  of  Ahsaroka,  which 
signifies  "  Crow."  ^  From  their  childhood  they  are  practiced 
in  this  kind  of  larceny;  they  acquire  an  astonishing  ability 
in  it;  their  glory  increases  with  the  number  of  their  captures, 
so  that  an  accomplished  robber  is  in  their  eyes  a  hero.  Their 
country  seems  to  stretch  from  the  Black  Hills  [of  Dakota] 
to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  embracing  the  Wind  River  j\Ioun- 

3  Sparrow-hawk,  not   crow. 


TWO    SINGULAR    CROWS.  239 

tains  and  all  the  plains  and  valleys  watered  by  that  stream, 
as  well  as  by  the  Yellowstone  and  Powder  rivers  and  the 
upper  waters  of  several  branches  of  the  Platte.  The  soil 
and  climate  of  this  country  are  very  diverse ;  there  are  vast 
plains  of  sand  and  clay ;  there  are  springs  of  hot  water  and 
mines  of  coal ;  game  is  very  abundant  throughout.  These 
are  the  best-formed  savages  I  have  met  on  my  travels. 

I  rode  with  this  tribe  for  two  days;  they  had  plenty  of 
everything,  and  according  to  their  custom  were  passing  the 
time  in  feasts  and  rejoicings.  Since  I  hide  nothing  from 
you,  I  hope  you  will  not  be  scandalized  at  learning  that  in 
a  single  afternoon  I  took  part  in  twenty  different  banquets ; 
hardly  was  I  seated  in  one  lodge,  when  somebody  would 
come  and  call  me  to  another.  But  as  my  stomach  was  not 
as  accommodating  as  those  of  the  Indians,  I  satisfied  my- 
self with  tasting  their  messes,  and  for  a  little  piece  of  tobacco 
the  eaters,  whom  I  had  had  the  foresight  to  take  with  me, 
emptied  the  dishes  carefully  in  my  stead. 

From  this  camp  we  made  our  way  to  the  Big  Horn,  the 
largest  tributary  of  the  Yellowstone ;  it  is  a  fair  broad  river, 
whose  waters  are  pure  as  crystal.  It  traverses  very  exten- 
sive plains,  well  wooded  on  both  banks,  and  offering 
beautiful  grazing  grounds.  There  we  found  another 
camp  of  Crows,  to  the  number  of  about  i,ooo  souls. 
They  too  received  us  with  the  greatest  demonstration  of 
friendship,  and  again  it  was  necessary  to  pass  the  day  in 
going  from  one  feast  to  another.  I  took  a  favorable  oc- 
casion to  speak  to  them  upon  various  points  of  religion. 
As  I  was  vividly  depicting  to  them  the  torments  of  hell, 
and  telling  them  how  the  Great  Spirit  had  prepared  it  for 
those  who  evade  his  laws,  one  of  the  chiefs  uttered  an 
exclamation  which  I  could  not  think  of  translating  to  you 
and  said:  "  I  think  there  are  only  two  in  all  the  Crow 
nation  who  will  not  go  to  that  hell  you  speak  of;  those 
are  the  Otter  and  the  Weasel;  they  are  the  only  ones  I 
know  who  have  never  killed,  nor  stolen,  nor  been  guilty 
of  the  excesses  which  your  law  forbids.     Still  I  may  be 


240  AN    OUTPOST   OF    CIVILIZATION. 

mistaken  about  them,  and  in  that  case  we  will  all  go  to 
hell  in  company."  The  next  day  I  set  out;  one  of  the  head 
chiefs  made  me  a  present  of  a  handsome  bell  and  hung  it 
on  my  horse's  neck.  He  invited  me  to  make  the  tour  of 
the  camp  with  him;  I  followed  him,  my  animal  sounding 
his  bell,  and  afterwards  he  accompanied  me,  out  of  civility, 
to  the  distance  of  six  miles  from  his  village.^ 

After  having  spent  several  more  days  in  surmounting 
the  difficulties  of  the  passage,  across  sterile  and  broken 
hills,  we  came  at  last  to  the  Fur  Company's  first  fort.^  It 
is  called  the  Fort  of  the  Crows.  The  Americans  who  re- 
side there  received  us  with  a  great  deal  of  benevolence 
and  friendliness,  and  I  quickly  recovered  from  my  fatigue. 
Not  until  then  did  the  intermittent  fever  entirely  leave 
me.  At  this  place  the  Flatheads  edified  all  hands  by  their 
piety.  In  the  fort  as  well  as  in  the  camp,  and  when  we 
were  on  the  road,  we  never  failed  to  assemble  morning 
and  evening  to  say  the  prayers  in  common,  and  to  sing 
some  canticles  to  the  praise  of  God.  I  had  set  my  de- 
parture from  the  fort  for  the  13th  of  September.  Here  I 
decided  to  part  from  my  faithful  Flatheads.     I  told  them 

4  Father  De  Smet  found  himself  again  among  the  Crows  upon  his 
return  journey  to  St.  Louis  in  the  fall  of  1842.  He  was  equally  well 
received  by  them,  but  as  on  the  present  occasion,  no  conversions  nor 
baptisms  resulted.  Father  Palladino  records  that  Father  Point  bap- 
tized twelve  children,  believed  to  have  been  Crows,  among  the  Gros- 
ventres  in  the  winter  of  1846-47  (see  page  955),  and  Father  De  Smet 
baptized  a  number  in  1863,  as  related  hereafter.  No  other  missionary 
work  seems  to  have  been  done  among  them  by  Catholic  priests  until 
the  year  1880. 

5  There  were  four  "  Crow  posts  "  built  by  the  American  Fur  Com- 
pany in  this  vicinity. —  Fort  Cass,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Horn,  built 
in  1832;  Fort  Van  Buren,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Yellowstone  near 
the  mouth  of  Tongue  river,  in  1835 ;  Fort  Alexander  on  the  left  bank 
of  the  Yellowstone  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Rosebud,  about  1839; 
and  Fort  Sarpy  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Yellowstone  about  twenty- 
five  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Big  Horn,  in  1850.  These  posts 
were  built  for  the  trade  of  the  Crow  Indians. 


THOUGHTS  ON  DEATH.  24 1 

that  the  country  I  was  about  to  enter  was  yet  more  dan- 
gerous than  that  which  we  had  just  traveled  together,  since 
it  was  ranged  incessantly  by  war-parties  of  the  Blackfeet, 
Assiniboins,  Grosventres,  Aricaras  and  Sioux,  nations 
which  had  always  been  hostile  to  them;  that  I  durst  not 
expose  their  lives  further;  that  I  entrusted  my  own  preser- 
vation to  Providence,  and  that  aided  by  that  divine  pro- 
tection I  had  nothing  to  fear.  I  exhorted  them  at  the 
same  time  to  continue  to  serve  the  Great  Spirit  with  fervor; 
and  reiterating  my  promises  of  a  prompt  return,  accom- 
panied by  other  missionaries,  I  embraced  them  all  and 
wished  them  a  fortunate  journey. 

My  Fleming  and  I  set  out  with  courage  upon  the  soli- 
tary and  dangerous  trip  of  several  hundred  miles  that  we 
had  to  make  together  across  an  unknown  desert,  in  which 
there  was  no  trail,  nor  any  other  guide  than  the  compass. 
For  a  long  time  we  followed  the  course  of  the  Yellow- 
stone [left  bank],  except  in  some  places  where  chains  of 
rocks  intercepted  our  march  and  obliged  us  to  make  long 
circuits,  crossing  rough  hills  four  or  five  hundred  feet 
high.  At  every  step  we  were  aware  of  the  forts  that  war- 
parties  put  up  for  their  times  of  raid,  murder  and  pillage; 
they  might  contain  lurking  enemies  at  the  moment  we 
passed  them.  Such  a  solitude,  with  all  its  horrors  and 
dangers,  has  notwithstanding  one  very  real  advantage;  it 
is  a  place  where  one  is  constantly  looking  Death  in  the 
face,  and  where  he  presents  himself  incessantly  to  the 
imagination  in  the  most  hideous  forms.  There  one  feels 
in  a  very  special  manner  that  he  is  wholly  in  God's  hands. 
It  is  then  easy  to  offer  him  the  sacrifice  of  a  life  which 
belongs  less  to  you  than  to  the  first  savage  who  may  see 
fit  to  take  it;  and  to  form  the  most  generous  resolutions 
a  man  is  capable  of.  That  was,  in  fact,  the  best  "  retreat  " 
that  I  have  ever  made  in  my  life.  My  only  consolation 
was  the  object  for  which  I  had  undertaken  the  journey; 
my  guide,  my  support,  my  refuge,  was  the  fatherly  Prov- 
idence of  my  God. 
16 


242  TOO  MANY  STRANGE  INDIANS. 

On  the  second  day  of  the  journey,  I  espied,  upon  waking 
very  early  in  the  morning,  the  smoke  of  a  great  fire  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  away;  only  a  rocky  point  separated  us 
from  a  savage  war-party.  Without  losing  time,  we  sad- 
dled our  horses  and  started  at  full  gallop;  at  last  we  gained 
the  hill,  and  crossing  the  ravines  and  the  dry  bed  of  a  tor- 
rent, we  reached  the  top  without  being  perceived.  That 
day  we  made  forty  to  fifty  miles  without  a  halt,  and  did 
not  camp  until  two  hours  after  sunset,  for  fear  of  the  sav- 
ages coming  upon  our  trail  and  following  us.  The  same 
fear  prevented  our  lighting  a  fire,  and  so  we  had  to  do  with- 
out supper.  I  rolled  myself  in  my  blanket  and  stretched  my- 
self on  the  sod,  commending  myself  to  the  good  God.  My 
grenadier,  braver  than  I,  was  soon  snoring  like  a  steam 
engine  in  full  swing;  running  through  all  the  notes  of  the 
chromatic  scale,  he  closed  each  movement  of  his  prelude 
with  a  deep  sigh,  by  way  of  modulation.  As  for  me,  I 
turned  and  rolled,  but  spent  a  sleepless  night;  what  they 
call  a  nuit  blanche.  At  dawn  next  morning  we  were  already 
under  way;  we  had  to  use  the  greatest  precautions,  be- 
cause the  country  we  had  to  traverse  was  most  dangerous. 
Towards  noon,  a  fresh  cause  for  alarm;  a  buffalo  had  been 
killed,  not  more  than  two  hours  before,  in  a  spot  by  which 
we  had  to  pass;  his  tongue,  marrowbones  and  some  other 
delicate  morsels  had  been  taken.  We  trembled  at  this 
sight,  thinking  the  enemy  was  not  far  away;  but  we  ought 
rather  to  have  thanked  the  Lord,  who  had  thus  prepared 
food  for  our  evening  meal.  We  turned  in  the  opposite 
direction  to  the  tracks  of  the  savages,  and  that  night  we 
camped  among  rocks  that  are  the  resort  of  bears  and 
tigers.  There  I  had  a  good  sleep.  This  time  the  music 
of  my  companion's  snoring  did  not  trouble  me. 

We  always  took  the  road  early  in  the  morning;  but  it 
was  to  confront  fresh  dangers  each  time,  to  meet  here  and 
there  recent  foot-prints  of  men  and  horses.  Towards  ten 
o'clock  we  came  to  an  abandoned  camp  of  forty  lodges; 
the  fires  were  not  yet  out;  but  luckily  we  saw  no  one.    At 


ABUNDANCE  OF  WILD  LIFE.  243 

last  we  came  to  the  Missouri,  but  at  a  place  where  lOO 
lodges  of  Assiniboins  had  crossed  an  hour  before.  This 
is  only  a  feeble  outline  of  my  dangerous  transit  from  the 
Fort  of  the  Crows  to  Fort  Union  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Yellowstone. 

I  related  these  particulars  one  day  to  an  Indian  chief, 
who  at  once  answered:  "The  Great  Spirit  has  his  mani- 
tous  (guardian  spirits);  he  sent  them  out  to  you  on  your 
way,  to  stupefy  and  put  to  flight  the  enemies  who  might 
have  harmed  you."  A  Christian  could  not  better  have 
recalled  the  fine  text  of  the  Psalms :  "Angclis  siiis  man- 
davit  de  te,  lit  aistodiant  te  in  omnibus  viis  titis."  I  have 
never  seen  a  plainer  instance  of  the  special  Providence 
that  protects  the  poor  missionary. 

The  Yellowstone  country  abounds  in  game;  I  do  not 
believe  that  there  is  in  all  America  a  region  better  adapted 
to  the  chase.  I  was  for  seven  days  among  innumerable 
herds  of  bufifalo.  Every  moment  I  perceived  bands  of 
majestic  elk  leaping  through  this  animated  solitude,  while 
clouds  of  antelopes  took  flight  before  us  with  the  swift- 
ness of  arrows.  The  ashata  or  bighorn  alone  seemed  not 
to  be  disturbed  by  our  presence;  these  animals  rested  in 
flocks  or  frolicked  upon  the  projecting  crags,  out  of  gun- 
shot. Deer  are  abundant,  especially  the  black-tailed  deer, 
which  is  hardly  found  elsewhere  than  in  mountainous 
country.  It  is  a  noble  and  beautiful  animal,  covered  with 
a  dark  brown  pelisse;  you  will  see  him  jump  with  all  four 
feet  at  once,  and  his  movements  are  so  quick  that  he  hardly 
seems  to  touch  the  ground.  All  the  rivers  and  streams 
that  we  crossed  in  our  course,  gave  evident  signs  that  the 
industrious  beaver,  the  otter  and  the  muskrat  were  still 
in  peaceable  possession  of  their  solitary  waters.  There 
was  no  lack  of  ducks,  geese  and  swans.  This  country 
abounds  in  coal  and  in  iron-mines.  The  Yellowstone  ap- 
peared to  me  to  be  full  of  currents;  it  is  not  navigable,  un- 
less in  the  middle  of  summer,  when  the  water  from  the 
melting  snows  rushes  down  in  torrents  from  the  mountains. 


244  ROUTE  ALONG   THE   MISSOURI. 

Fort  Union^  is  the  vastest  and  finest  of  the  forts  that 
the  Fur  Company  has  upon  the  Missouri;  it  is  situated 
2. 200  [1,765]  miles  from  St.  Louis.  The  gentlemen  re- 
siding there  overwhelmed  us  with  civilities;  they  could  not 
get  over  their  astonishment  at  the  dangerous  journey 
which  we  had  just  concluded  so  fortunately.  During  our 
stay  among  them,  they  supplied  all  our  wants  most  liber- 
ally, and  at  our  departure  for  the  village  of  the  ^Mandans 
they  loaded  us  with  all  sorts  of  provisions.  I  shall  be  most 
thankful  to  them  all  my  life. 

After  having  regenerated  sundry  half-breed  children  in 
the  holy  waters  of  baptism.  I  left  the  fort  on  the  23d  of 
September.  It  took  us  ten  days  to  reach  the  village  of  the 
^landans.  The  soil  along  the  great  river  is  much  more 
fertile  than  that  of  the  Yellowstone;  but  it  is  still  the  same 
vast  prairie,  diversified  with  high  hills,  or  rather  mountains, 
guttered  with  ravines.  The  river  beds  are  dry  through 
part  of  the  year:  but  they  are  swollen  to  a  prodigious 
height  in  the  rainy  season.  On  the  hillsides  and  in  the 
bottoms,  on  the  banks  of  the  rivers,  handsome  groves  are 
found  here  and  there:  but  the  general  aspect  of  the  region 
is  nothing  but  an  undulating  plain,  covered  with  sod  and 
various  plants.  The  soil  is  strongly  impregnated  with  sul- 
phur, copperas,  alum  and  Glaubers  salts;  the  strata  of 
earth  give  a  strong  color  to  the  rivers  that  traverse  them, 
and  together  with  the  crumbhng  of  the  banks  of  the  Mis- 
souri, impart  to  the  water  of  that  immense  stream  the  ma- 
terials that  render  it  muddy. 

There  are  some  sandy  places  in  that  region,"  full  of  natu- 
ral curiosities;  I  noticed  great  trunks  of  trees  petrified,  and 

6  Fort  Union,  the  most  important  and  the  most  celebrated  of  the 
American  Fur  Company  posts  on  the  upper  Missouri,  was  founded  in 
the  fall  of  1828,  by  the  distinguished  trader  Kenneth  McKenzie. 

"^  This  is  the  region  which  the  distinguished  geologist,  Doctor  F.  V. 
Hayden,  afterward  made  peculiarly  his  own.  He  made  his  first  ex- 
plorations here  in  1854,  and.  confirming  Father  De  Smet's  belief,  found 
matter  for  years  of  labor  and  many  subsequent  expeditions. 


REMINDERS    OF   THE    EPIDEMIC.  245 

the  skeletons  of  various  species  of  animals;  among  other 
things  I  found  a  big  bufifalo-skull,  changed  to  stone  as  red 
as  porphyry.  I  carried  it  a  long  way,  but  the  trouble  that 
this  burden  caused  me,  and  the  fatigue  of  the  horses,  who 
at  that  season  of  the  year  hardly  found  whereon  to  live, 
soon  forced  me  to  abandon  it  regretfully  in  the  prairie,  as 
I  had  been  obliged  to  do  before  in  the  Black  Hills  and 
Rocky  Mountains  with  all  the  other  curiosities  I  had 
picked  up. 

We  met  on  our  way  a  war-party  of  fifteen  Assiniboins, 
returning  from  a  fruitless  expedition  against  the  Gros- 
ventres  of  the  Missouri.  It  is  chiefly  on  such  occasions  as 
this  that  it  is  dangerous  to  meet  the  savages.  To  come 
home  without  horses,  prisoners,  scalps,  is  for  them  the 
climax  of  dishonor  and  shame;  accordingly  they  showed 
us  much  displeasure,  and  their  looks  were  nothing  if  not 
sinister.  These  Indians  are,  however,  cowards,  and  this 
particular  band  were  poorly  armed.  I  was  accompanied 
by  three  men  from  the  fort,  who  were  going  to  the  Ari- 
caras  with  a  herd  of  horses,  and  though  we  were  only  five, 
each  of  us  laid  his  hand  upon  his  weapon,  assuming  an 
air  of  determination,  and  we  had  a  little  talk  with  them 
and  continued  our  route  without  being  molested.  The 
next  day  we  passed  through  a  forest  on  the  banks  of  the 
Missouri  which  had  been  in  1835  the  winter  quarters  of 
the  Grosventres,  Aricaras  and  Mandans;  it  was  there  that 
these  unfo-rtunate  nations  had  been  attacked  by  that  epi- 
demic, which,  in  the  course  of  a  year,  made  such  ravages 
among  the  Indian  tribes;  several  thousand  of  the  savages 
died  of  smallpox.  We  observ^ed  in  passing  that  the 
corpses,  wrapped  in  buffalo  hides,  had  remained  bound  to 
the  branches  of  the  largest  trees.  This  savage  burial- 
ground  offered  a  very  sad  and  mournful  sight,  and  gave 
my  traveling  companions  occasion  to  relate  several  anec- 
dotes as  deplorable  as  they  were  tragic.  Two  days  later 
we  came  to  the  miserable  remnants  of  these  three  unfortu- 
nate tribes.    The  Mandans,  who  to-day  scarce  number  ten 


246  PRIMITIVE  KINDNESS. 

families,  have  united  with  the  Grosventres,  who  themselves 
had  joined  the  Aricaras;  altogether  there  are  about  3,000 
of  them.  Some  of  the  young  men  having  perceived  us 
afar  off,  gave  notice  to  the  chiefs  of  the  approach  of 
strangers.  At  once  they  rushed  out  by  hundreds  to  meet 
us;  but  the  three  men  from  Fort  Union  made  themselves 
known,  and  presented  me  to  their  chiefs  as  a  Black-robe 
of  the  Frenchmen.  They  received  us  with  the  greatest 
signs  of  friendliness  and  forced  us  to  pass  the  afternoon 
and  night  in  their  camp.  The  kettles  were  soon  filled  in 
all  the  lodges,  and  the  roasting  pieces  were  set  to  the  fire 
to  celebrate  our  arrival.  Here  again,  as  among  the  Crows, 
it  was  a  succession  of  invitations  to  feasts  that  we  had  to 
undergo  until  midnight.  To  refuse  would  have  been  the 
height  of  rudeness,  and  besides  they  believe  us  as  capable 
as  themselves  of  eating  hugely  and  at  any  hour  of  the  day 
or  night.  An  Indian  is  a  singular  being  in  this  respect;  he 
is  insatiable  and  indefatigable;  he  is  always  ready  when 
eating  is  in  question;  but  I  must  say  also  that  he  is  of  an 
admirable  patience  in  time  of  dearth,  and  keeps  the  most 
rigorous  fast  for  whole  weeks. 

These  savages  helped  us  next  day  to  cross  the  Mis- 
souri in  their  bull-boats.  These  are  shaped  like  a  round 
basket,  made  of  willows  as  thick  as  one's  thumb  inter- 
woven and  covered  with  a  buffalo  skin.  The  women  man- 
age these  boats  of  their  own  manufacture  with  much  skill. 
The  weight  and  number  of  persons  that  they  will  carry  is 
truly  astonishing.  Our  horses,  that  had  followed  us  swim- 
ming, became  mired  to  the  neck  on  the  opposite  bank;  it 
took  a  half  day's  work  to  get  them  out  of  the  mud. 

The  same  evening  we  came  to  the  first  permanent  vil- 
lage of  the  Aricaras.  Their  houses  are  very  commodious 
and  roomy;  they  are  made  with  four  great  crotched  tree- 
trunks  set  on  end,  supporting  the  beams  and  a  roof  of 
stout  poles  interwoven  with  osiers;  the  whole  structure  is 
covered  with  earth.  A  hole  dug  in  the  ground  in  the 
middle  of  the  lodge  serves  for  a  fireplace,  and  an  opening 


WAYS  OF  THE  ARICARAS.  247 

contrived  in  the  top  lets  the  smoke  out  and  admits  the 
light.  Inside  the  lodge  is  surrounded  with  alcoves,  re- 
sembling the  bunks  on  a  ship  and  concealed  by  skins  in 
place  of  curtains.  At  the  extremity  of  each  lodge,  or  else 
upon  the  summit,  you  will  see  a  kind  of  hunting  or  war 
trophy,  consisting  of  two  or  more  buffalo  heads  painted  in 
an  odd  manner,  and  surmounted  with  shields,  bows,  quiv- 
ers and  other  weapons. 

^These  Aricaras  commonly  wear  no  other  garment  than 
a  loin-cloth.  On  feast  days,  they  put  on  a  handsome  tunic, 
leggings  and  moccasins  of  gazelle-skin  embroidered  with 
porcupine  quills  of  lively  colors;  then  they  envelope  them- 
selves in  a  buffalo  robe  loaded  with  ornaments  and  colors, 
throw  their  quiver  filled  with  arrows  over  the  left  shoulder, 
and  cover  their  head  with  a  bonnet  of  eagle  feathers.  He 
who  kills  an  enemy  on  his  own  ground  is  distinguished  by 
tails  of  animals  which  he  attaches  to  his  legs.  He  who 
kills  a  grizzly  bear  wears  the  claws  of  that  animal  in  the 
form  of  a  collar,  and  it  is  the  most  glorious  trophy  of  an 
Indian  hunter.  The  warrior  who  returns  from  the  enemy 
with  one  or  several  scalps,  paints  a  red  hand  across  his 
mouth,  to  show  that  he  has  drunk  enemies'  blood. 

The  warriors  of  the  Aricaras  and  Grosventres,  before 
starting  on  the  warpath,  keep  a  strict  fast,  or  rather  they 
abstain  totally  from  drinking  and  eating  for  four  days.  In 
this  interval  their  imagination  is  exalted  to  the  point  of 
delirium;  whether  it  is  the  enfeebling  of  their  organs  or 
the  natural  effect  of  the  warlike  plans  they  are  nursing, 
they  claim  to  have  strange  visions.  The  elders  and  wise 
men  of  the  tribe,  being  called  in  to  interpret  these  dreams, 
draw  from  them  auguries  more  or  less  favorable  to  the  suc- 
cess of  the  enterprise;  their  explanations  are  received  as 
oracles  by  which  the  expedition  is  to  be  regulated.  While 
the  preparatory  fast  continues,  the  warriors  make  incisions 
in  their  bodies,  thrust  pieces  of  wood  into  their  flesh  be- 

8  Much  of  this  is  from  Astoria,  chapter  XXI. 


248  CRUELTY  OF  SAVAGES. 

neath  the  shoulder  blade,  tie  leather  straps  to  them  and 
let  themselves  be  hung  from  a  post  fastened  horizontally 
upon  the  edge  of  a  chasm  150  feet  deep;  often  they  even 
cut  off  one  or  two  fingers,  which  they  offer  as  a  sacrifice 
to  the  Great  Spirit,  that  he  may  grant  them  scalps  in  the 
warfare  that  they  are  about  to  undertake.  In  one  of  their 
last  skirmishes  with  the  Sioux,  the  Aricaras  killed  twenty 
of  the  enemy  and  placed  their  bodies  in  a  heap  in  the  mid- 
dle of  their  village.  Then  began  their  grand  war  dance; 
many  women  and  children  took  part.  After  having  cele- 
brated for  a  long  time  the  exploits  of  their  braves,  they 
rushed  like  wild  beasts  upon  the  inanimate  bodies,  hacked 
them  to  pieces  and  stuck  the  scraps  on  the  ends  of  long 
poles,  with  which  they  danced  several  times  around  the 
village. 

One  can  form  no  idea  of  the  cruelty  of  a  great  number 
of  these  savage  tribes  in  the  continual  warfare  that  they 
wage  with  their  neighbors.  When  they  know  that  the 
warriors  of  a  rival  tribe  have  gone  for  a  hunt,  they  come 
unexpectedly  upon  their  village,  massacre  the  children, 
women  and  old  men,  and  carry  away  prisoners  all  the  men 
they  can  lead.  Sometimes  they  put  themselves  in  ambush 
and  let  part  of  the  band  pass  quietly,  then  all  at  once  they 
give  a  hideous  yell  and  shower  upon  the  enemy  a  hail  of 
bullets  and  arrows.  A  deadly  combat  begins  instantly, 
they  rush  upon  one  another,  war-club  and  ax  in  hand, 
and  make  a  horrible  butchery,  boasting  of  their  valor  and 
spewing  a  torrent  of  insults  upon  the  unhappy  vanquished; 
death  shows  himself  in  a  thousand  hideous  forms,  the 
sight  of  which,  though  it  would  freeze  with  horror  any  civi- 
lized man,  only  inflames  the  rage  of  these  barbarians. 
They  insult  and  trample  under  foot  the  mutilated  corpses; 
they  tear  off  the  scalps,  roll  in  the  blood  like  ferocious  beasts, 
and  often  even  devour  the  quivering  members  of  those 
who  still  breathe.  The  conquerors  return  to  their  village 
dragging  with  them  the  prisoners  destined  to  torment. 


TORTURE   OF    PRISONERS.  249 

The  women  come  to  meet  them,  uttering  frightful  howls 
on  the  supposition  that  they  will  have  to  weep  the  death 
of  their  husbands  or  brothers.  A  herald  calls  out  the  cir- 
cumstantial details  of  the  expedition;  the  roll  of  the  war- 
riors is  called,  and  their  silence  indicates  that  they  have 
succumbed.  Then  the  piercing  cries  of  the  women  are 
renewed  and  their  despair  presents  a  scene  of  rage  and 
grief  that  passes  imagination.  The  last  ceremony  is  the 
announcement  of  the  victory;  forgetting  at  once  their  own 
troubles,  they  [the  women]  hasten  to  celebrate  the 
triumph  of  their  nation;  by  an  inexplicable  transition,  they 
pass  in  an  instant  from  frantic  sorrow  to  the  most  extrava- 
gant joy. 

I  could  not  find  words  to  describe  to  you  the  torments 
that  they  [the  men]  inflict  upon  the  poor  prisoner  devoted 
to  death;  one  tears  out  his  nails  by  the  roots,  another 
chews  the  flesh  off  his  fingers,  sticks  the  torn  finger  into 
his  pipe  and  smokes  its  blood;  they  crush  their  toes  be- 
tween two  stones,  apply  red-hot  irons  to  all  parts  of  their 
bodies,  skin  them  alive  and  feed  upon  their  quivering  flesh. 
These  cruelties  continue  for  several  hours,  sometimes  for 
a  Avhole  day,  until  the  victim  succumbs  to  so  many  fearful 
torments.  The  women,  like  veritable  furies,  often  outdo 
the  men  in  cruelty  in  these  scenes  of  horrors.  During  all 
this  horrible  drama,  the  chiefs  of  the  tribe  are  tranquilly 
seated  about  the  stake  where  the  victim  is  writhing;  they 
smoke  and  look  on  at  these  tragic  scenes  without  the 
slightest  emotion.  Often  the  prisoner  dares  to  brave  his 
executioners  with  a  coolness  truly  stoical:  ^*  I  do  not 
fear  death,"  he  cries:  "  those  who  dread  your  torments  are 
cowards,  they  are  lower  than  women.  May  my  enemies  be 
confounded;  they  shall  not  draw  a  groan  from  me;  let 
them  rage  and  despair.  Oh!  if  I  could  devour  them  and 
drink  their  blood  in  their  own  skulls  to  the  last  drop!  " 

At  last  we  came  to  the  big  village  of  the  Aricaras.  which 
is  only  ten  miles  from  that  of  the  Mandans.     The  Fur 


250  ABORIGINAL    MAGIC. 

Company  has  a  fort  here  also  [Fort  Clark]. ^  I  was  sur- 
prised to  find  around  the  dwellings  fair  fields  of  maize, 
cultivated  with  the  greatest  care.  These  Indians  con- 
tinue to  make  the  same  earthen  vessels  (and  every  lodge 
has  several  of  them)  that  are  found  in  the  ancient  tombs 
scattered  through  the  United  States,  and  which  the  anti- 
quarians of  the  country  assume  to  have  belonged  to  an 
earlier  race  than  the  savages  of  to-day.  The  jugglers  or 
conjurers  of  the  Aricaras  enjoy  a  high  reputation  among 
the  Indians,  by  reason  of  the  astonishing  tricks  that  they 
perform  to  give  themselves  greater  importance;  they  pre- 
tend to  have  communications  with  the  spirit  of  darkness. 
They  plunge  their  arms  to  the  elbows  in  boiling  water, 
by  means  of  the  juice  of  a  certain  root  wherewith  they 
rub  their  arms.  They  eat  fire  and  shoot  arrows  at  one 
another  without  injury.  One  trick  surprised  me  greatly, 
though  the  savage  was  unwilling  to  perform  it  in  my  pres- 
ence, saying  that  my  medicine  (religion)  was  stronger 
than  his. 

He  had  his  hands,  feet,  legs  and  arms  bound  with  a 
thousand  knots;  he  was  then  enclosed  in  a  big  net  and 
afterwards  in  a  buffalo  robe.  The  man  who  tied  him 
promised  him  a  horse  if  he  got  rid  of  his  bonds;  but  in  a 
minute  he  came  forth  free  from  all  his  fetters,  to  the  great 
surprise  of  all  the  spectators.  The  commandant  of  the  fort 
offered  him  another  horse  if  he  would  communicate  his 
secret  to  him.  "  Let  yourself  be  tied,"  said  the  sorcerer  to 
him;  "  I  have  ten  invisible  spirits  that  are  at  my  orders;  I 

^  Fort  Clark  was  built  to  accommodate  the  trade  of  the  Mandans, 
Minnetarees  and  other  tribes.  It  was  located  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Missouri  fifty-five  miles  above  the  point  where  the  Northern  Pacific 
now  crosses  the  river  at  Bismarck,  N.  D.  This  had  been  an  important 
trading  point  from  the  earliest  times.  A  post  had  been  built  there  as 
early  as  1822.  Several  other  temporary  posts  were  built  in  the  vicinity 
but  were  succeeded  by  Fort  Clark  in  1831.  This  post  was  built  by 
James  Kipp  under  the  orders  of  Kenneth  McKenzie  and  was  named 
after  William  Clark  of  the  Lewis  and  Clark  expedition. 


SIOUX  VERY  NEIGHBORLY.  25 1 

will  detach  three  of  my  band  and  give  them  to  you;  they 
will  untie  you;  but  don't  be  afraid  of  them,  for  they  will 
accompany  you  everywhere."  The  commandant  was  dis- 
concerted by  this  statement  of  the  savage  and  durst  not 
accept  the  ofTer. 

On  the  6th  of  October  I  started  on  again  for  the  fort  of 
the  Little  jMissouri,^"  or  Fort  Pierre.  This  is  the  company's 
great  warehouse  for  goods  destined  for  the  wants  of  the 
savages  inhabiting  the  river.  As  upon  the  Yellowstone,  I 
was  again  without  a  guide  in  this  ten  days'  journey.  A 
Canadian  who  was  going  the  same  way  accompanied  us. 
One  becomes  by  degrees  accustomed  to  braving  dangers. 
Full  of  confidence  in  the  protection  of  God,  we  sought  our 
way  in  a  country  where  there  is  no  trodden  path,  guided 
through  these  desert  expanses  like  the  mariner  upon  the 
vast  ocean.  The  inhabitants  of  the  fort  had  .  carefully 
recommended  to  us  to  avoid  meeting  the  Yanktonnais, 
the  Santees,  the  Hunkpapas.  the  Ogallalas,  and  the  Black- 
feet  Sioux.  Still  we  had  to  traverse  the  plains  where  they 
range.  On  the  third  day,  a  party  of  Yanktonnais  and 
Santees,  who  were  in  hiding  behind  a  butte,  suddenly  sur- 
prised us;  but  they  were  so  far  from  meaning  any  harm 
that  they  loaded  us  with  kindnesses,  and  after  smoking  the 
calumet  of  peace  with  us,  furnished  us  provisions  for  the 
road.  The  next  day  we  met  several  other  parties  who 
showed  us  the  same  friendliness  and  the  same  attentions; 
they  shook  hands  with  us  and  we  smoked  with  them. 

On  the  fifth  [Eng.  ninth]  day  we  found  ourselves  in  the 
neighborhood  of  the  Blackfeet  Sioux,  a  detached  tribe  of 
the  Blackfeet  of  the  mountains."  Their  name  alone  and 
the  race  from  which  they  descend  terrified  us;  we  there- 
fore traveled  as  much  as  possible  in  the  ravines,  to  con- 

10  This  stream  has  been  variously  known  as  the  Little  Missouri,  the 
Teton,  and  Bad  river.  It  was  formerly  generally  known  by  the  second 
name,  but  now  only  by  the  third. 

11  Wrong.     There  is  no  relationship  between  the  two  tribes. 


252  THE   BLACK-ROBE  IS   WELCOME. 

ceal  ourselves  from  the  piercing  eye  of  the  savages  who 
were  roaming  in  the  plains.  Toward  noon  we  stopped 
near  a  lovely  spring  to  dine  and  take  a  moment's  rest. 
As  we  were  congratulating  ourselves  on  not  having  yet 
met  those  redoubtable  Blackfeet,  all  at  once  a  fearful  noise 
was  heard  on  the  hill  that  overlooked  the  spot  where  we 
had  halted;  a  band  of  Blackfeet,  who  had  been  following 
our  tracks  in  the  ravines  for  several  hours,  came  at  us  in  a 
gallop.  They  were  armed  with  guns,  bows  and  arrows, 
almost  naked,  and  painted  in  the  most  outlandish  manner. 
I  rose  at  once  and  presented  my  hand  to  him  whom  I  be- 
lieved to  be  the  chief  of  the  band;  he  said  coldly,  "  Why 
are  you  hiding  in  this  ravine?  "  I  answered  him  that  we 
were  hungry  and  that  the  spring  had  invited  us  to  take  a 
moment's  repose.  He  looked  at  me  with  wonder,  and 
addressing  the  Canadian,  who  could  speak  the  Sioux  lan- 
guage a  little  better,  said  to  him,  "  I  have  never  seen  such 
a  man  in  my  life.  Who  is  he?  "  My  long  black  robe  and 
the  missionary's  cross  that  I  bore  upon  my  breast  es- 
pecially excited  his  curiosity.  The  Canadian  answered 
him  (and  under  the  circumstances  he  was  prodigal  of  his 
titles)  "  It  is  the  man  who  talks  to  the  Great  Spirit.  It  is 
a  chief  or  Black-gown  of  the  Frenchmen."  His  fierce  look 
at  once  changed;  he  ordered  his  warriors  to  put  away  their 
weapons  and  they  all  shook  hands  with  me.  I  made  them' 
a  present  of  a  big  twist  of  tobacco,  and  everybody  sat 
down  in  a  circle  and  smoked  the  pipe  of  peace  and  friend- 
ship. He  then  besought  me  to  accompany  him  and  to 
pass  the  night  in  his  village,  which  was  at  no  great  dis- 
tance. I  followed  him,  and  on  coming  in  sight  of  the 
camp,  which  comprised  some  hundred  lodges,  or  about 
I, GOO  souls,  I  stopped  a  quarter  of  a  mile  away  in  a  fair 
meadow  on  the  bank  of  a  fair  river,  and  there  pitched  my 
camp.  I  had  the  head  chief  invited  to  sup  with  me.  When 
I  said  the  Benedicife,  he  asked  the  Canadian  what  I  was 
doing.     He  answered  that  I  was  speaking  to  the  Great 


m  iiL' 


REVERENCE    FOR    THE    CREATOR.  253 

Spirit  to  thank  him  for  having  procured  us  whereof  to  eat. 
He  uttered  an  exclamation  of  approval. 

Twelve  warriors  and  their  chief,  in  full  costume,  shortly 
afterward  presented  themselves  before  my  lodge  and 
spread  a  large  and  fine  buffalo  robe.  The  head  chief  took 
me  by  the  arm  and  leading  me  to  the  skin  made  me  a 
sign  to  be  seated.  I  had  no  idea  of  the  meaning  of  this 
ceremony,  but  I  sat  down,  thinking  that  it  was  an  invita- 
tion to  smoke  the  calumet  with  them.  Judge  of  my  sur- 
prise when  I  beheld  the  twelve  warriors  seize  this  kind  of 
carpet  by  the  ends,  lift  me  from  the  ground  and,  preceded 
by  their  chief,  carry  me  in  triumph  to  the  village,  where 
everybody  was  instantly  afoot  to  see  the  Black-robe.  The 
most  honorable  place  in  the  chief's  lodge  was  assigned  to 
me,  and  he,  surrounded  by  forty  of  his  principal  warriors, 
harangued  me  in  these  terms:  "  Black-robe,  this  is  the 
happiest  day  of  our  lives.  To-day  for  the  first  time  we  see 
among  us  a  man  who  comes  so  near  to  the  Great  Spirit. 
Here  are  the  principal  braves  of  my  tribe.  I  have  bidden 
them  to  the  feast  that  I  have  had  prepared  for  you,  that 
they  may  never  lose  the  memory  of  so  happy  a  day."  Then 
he  requested  that  I  would  speak  again  to  the  Great  Spirit 
before  commencing  the  feast;  I  made  the  sign  of  the  cross 
and  said  the  prayer.  All  the  time  it  lasted,  all  the  savage 
company,  following  their  chief's  example,  held  their  hands 
raised  toward  heaven;  the  moment  it  was  ended,  they 
lowered  their  right  hands  to  the  ground.  I  asked  the 
chief  for  an  explanation  of  this  ceremony.  "  We  raise 
our  hands,"  he  replied,  "  because  we  are  wholly  dependent 
on  the  Great  Spirit;  it  is  his  liberal  hand  that  supplies  all 
our  wants.  We  strike  the  ground  afterward,  because  we 
are  miserable  beings,  worms  crawHng  before  his  face." 
Then  he  took  from  my  dish  a  piece  of  pomme  blanche  (a 
root  that  they  use  for  food)  and  put  it  in  my  mouth  with  a 
little  piece  of  buffalo  meat. 

I  desired  to  speak  to  these  honest  folk  of  the  main  points 


254  ARRIVAL  AT  FORT  PIERRE. 

of  Christianity  ;^2  but  the  interpreter  was  not  sufficiently 
skilled  in  the  language  to  render  my  words  into  the  Sioux. 
The  next  day,  though  we  were  still  five  days'  journey  from 
the  fort,  the  chief  had  his  son  and  two  other  young  men 
go  with  me,  praying  me  to  instruct  them.  He  desired 
absolutely,  he  said,  to  know  the  words  I  had  to  impart  to 
them  in  behalf  of  the  Great  Spirit;  and  at  the  same  time 
these  young  men  would  be  a  safeguard  for  me  against  evil- 
disposed  savages. 

Two  days  afterward  we  met  an  Indian  loaded  with  cow's- 
meat.  Seeing  that  we  were  without  provisions,  he  threw 
his  load  on  the  ground,  begging  that  we  would  accept  it; 
"  For,"  he  said,  "  you  are  going  toward  the  fort,  where 
game  is  very  scarce."  We  reached  Fort  Pierre^^  on  the 
17th  of  October. 

These  are  the  names  of  the  principal  chiefs  whom  we 
met  on  our  route:  Iron  Crow,  Good  Bear,  Dog  Hand, 
Black  Eyes,  Won't  Eat  Cow  and  Goes  Barefoot.  The 
last  named  is  the  chief  of  the  Blackfeet.     The  principal 

12  It  was  Father  De  Smet's  lifelong  ambition  to  establish  a  mission 
among  the  Sioux.  This  ambition  he  never  realized,  although  his  in- 
fluence over  those  tribes,  the  foundation  of  which  was  laid  on  the 
present  journey,  never  lapsed,  but  on  the  contrary  came  to  be  the 
greatest  ever  wielded  by  any  white  man. 

13  Fort  Pierre,  next  to  Fort  Union,  the  most  important  of  the 
American  Fur  Company  posts  on  the  Missouri  river,  was  built  for  the 
trade  of  the  great  tribe  of  the  Sioux.  It  was  located  at  an  important 
bend  in  the  stream  where  it  turns  east  from  its  long  southerly  course 
after  leaving  Fort  Clark.  It  was  conveniently  located  for  the  trade 
of  the  whole  Dakota  country  as  far  west  as  the  Black  Hills.  Many 
posts  have  been  built  in  its  vicinity,  where  the  Teton  river  empties 
into  the  Missouri.  Fort  Tecumseh,  the  predecessor  of  Pierre,  was 
built  in  1822  by  the  Columbia  Fur  Company,  and  passed  to  the  Ameri- 
can Fur  Company  when  the  latter  bought  out  the  Columbia  Fur  Com- 
pany in  1827.  Owing  to  the  encroachments  of  the  river  which 
threatened  the  destruction  of  the  fort,  it  was  rebuilt  in  1831,  and 
christened  Fort  Pierre  about  June  i,  1832,  in  honor  of  Pierre  Chou- 
teau, the  head  of  the  company. 


v/ 


\ 


SOME    STATISTICS    OF    THE    SIOUX.  255 

rivers  we  crossed  on  this  stretch  are  the  Heart,  Cannon- 
ball,  Grand,  Moreau  and  Big  Cheyenne  rivers.  [La  riviere 
du  Ccetir,  la  riviere  au  Boiilet,  la  riviere  Grande,  le  Moreau 
et  la  grande  Cheyenne.] 

After  spending  several  days  at  Fort  Pierre,  I  set  out 
again  for  Fort  Vermillion,  in  company  with  two  Cana- 
dians. The  plains  that  we  crossed  were  almost  entirely 
bare  of  timber;  often  we  were  obliged  to  cook  our  meals 
with  dry  grass,  which  we  had  to  keep  in  a  constant  flame. 
We  met  very  few  Indians  in  this  journey  of  nineteen  days; 
the  plain  was  burnt  up.  We  crossed  the  Medicine,  Cha- 
pelle,  James  and  Vermillion  rivers.  [La  riviere  de  Mede- 
cine,  la  riviere  de  la  Chapelle,  la  riviere  a  Jacques  et  le 
Vermilion.] 

The  Sioux  nation  is  very  numerous  and  warlike  and  is 
divided  into  several  tribes.  According  to  the  best  informa- 
tion I  could  obtain,  the  Santees  and  Yanktons  number 
3,cx)o;  the  Yanktonnais,  4,300;  the  Blackfeet,  1,500;  the 
Hunkpapas,  2,000;  the  Brijles,  2,500;  the  Sans  arcs,  1,000; 
the  Minneconjous,  2,000;  the  Ogallalas,  1,500;  the  Two- 
kettles,  800;  the  Saones,  2,000;  the  Unkepatines,  2,000." 
These  are  the  Sioux  of  the  Missouri.  Eight  to  ten  thou- 
sand more  of  them  are  found  on  the  Mississippi,  dispersed 
in  different  bands,  from  the  Des  Moines  to  the  Red  river. 

The  shape  of  the  Indian  lodges  is  worthy  of  attention; 
each  tribe  has  a  different  form  which  it  is  easy  to  recog- 
nize. The  Sioux  lodges  have  a  gay  exterior;  they  are 
painted  in  wavy  red,  yellow  and  white  lines,  or  decorated 
with  figures  of  horses,  deer  and  buffalo,  moons,  suns  and 
stars. 

Among  the  Sioux,  as  among  the  Aricaras,  warriors  pre- 
paring for  an  expedition  undergo  a  very  rigorous  fast  of 

1*  The  Unkepatines  and  Saones  cannot  be  identified.  The  latter 
name  was  in  common  use  during  the  period  of  the  fur  trade,  but  seems 
to  have  lapsed  entirely.  There  was  a  Teton-Saone  band,  and  a  Sawon 
(Saone)    trading  post. 


256  A    POTAWATOMI    SCALP. 

several  days.  They  have  for  this  purpose  a  "  medicine  " 
lodge  where  they  spread  a  buffalo  robe  and  plant  a  red- 
painted  post;  at  the  top  of  the  lodge  is  tied  a  calf-skin  con- 
taining all  sorts  of  devices.  There,  to  obtain  the  aid  of 
the  Great  Spirit,  they  pierce  their  breasts,  pass  leather 
cords  through,  attach  themselves  to  the  post,  and  dance 
thus  several  times  around  the  lodge  to  the  sound  of  the 
drum,  singing  their  warlike  exploits  and  flourishing  their 
warclubs  over  their  heads.  Others  make  deep  cuts  under 
their  shoulder-blades,  run  cords  through  the  gashes,  and 
drasf  two  o-reat  buffalo  heads  to  an  eminence  about  a  mile 
away  from  the  village;  there  they  dance  until  they  drop 
senseless.  A  last  offering  before  setting  out  consists  in 
cutting  off  little  pieces  of  flesh  from  different  parts  of 
their  bodies,  which  they  offer  to  the  sun,  the  earth  and  the 
four  cardinal  points,  to  render  the  Manitous,  or  tutelary 
spirits,  of  the  different  elements  favorable. 

The  Sioux  who  quarrels  or  dies  in  a  state  of  drunken- 
ness, or  falls  victim  to  the  vengeance  of  a  compatriot,  does 
not  receive  the  usual  honors  of  burial;  he  is  interred  with- 
out ceremony  and  without  provisions.  To  die  in  combat 
with  the  enemies  of  the  nation  is  for  them  the  most 
glorious  death.  In  that  case  their  bodies  are  wrapped  in 
buffalo  skins  and  placed  upon  scaffolds  near  to  their 
camps  or  to  the  highways.  I  have  every  reason  to  be- 
lieve, from  several  conversations  upon  religion  that  I  have 
had  with  the  chiefs  of  the  different  tribes,  that  a  mission 
among  them  would  have  the  most  consoling  results. 

When  I  reached  Fort  Vermillion,  a  Santee  war-party 
was  just  back  from  an  excursion  against  my  dear  Pota- 
watomies;  they  brought  one  scalp  with  them.  The  mur- 
derers had  blackened  themselves  from  head  to  foot  with 
the  exception  of  their  lips,  which  were  rubbed  with  ver- 
milion. Proud  of  their  victory,  they  performed  their  dance 
in  the  midst  of  the  camp,  carrying  the  scalp  on  the  end  of 
a  long  pole.    I  appeared  all  at  once  in  their  presence  and 


MAKES    PEACE    BETWEEN    TRIBES.  257 

invited  them  to  meet  in  council.  There  I  reproached  them 
vigorously  with  their  unfaithfulness  to  the  solemn  promise 
they  had  made  me  the  year  before,  to  live  in  peace  with 
their  neighbors  the  Pofawatomies.  I  made  them  feel  the 
injustice  they  were  guilty  of  in  attacking  a  peaceable  na- 
tion that  wished  them  nothing  but  good,  and  who  had 
even  prevented  their  hereditary  foes,  the  Otoes,  Pawnees, 
Sauks,  Foxes  and  lowas  from  coming  to  invade  them. 
Finally  I  advised  them  to  employ  all  means  to  effect  a 
prompt  reconciliation  and  avoid  the  terrible  reprisal  which 
could  not  fail  to  come  upon  them;  being  well  assured  that 
the  Potawatomies  and  their  allies  would  come  soon  to  take 
vengeance  for  their  perjury,  and  perhaps  to  wipe  out  their 
whole  tribe.  Abashed  at  their  fault  and  dreading  its  con- 
sequences, they  conjured  me  to  serve  once  more  as  their 
mediator,  and  to  assure  the  Potawatomies  of  their  sincere 
resolution  to  bury  the  hatchet  forever. 

The  next  day,  the  14th  of  November,  accompanied  by 
an  Iroquois  half-breed,  I  embarked  upon  the  Missouri  in 
a  canoe;  for  my  horse,  worn  out  with  fatigue,  was  unable 
to  carry  me  farther.  The  snow  and  the  cold  that  followed 
filled  the  stream  with  ice-cakes,  which,  striking  upon  the 
snags  of  which  the  river  is  full,  rendered  navigation  doubly 
dangerous.  We  were  still  300  miles  from  Council  Bluffs, 
the  first  establishment  one  comes  to  below  the  Vermillion, 
and  in  a  region  where  all  the  prairie  grasses  and  plants  of 
the  forest  had  been  burned  by  the  Indians  to  the  very 
banks  of  the  river,  and  from  which  in  consequence  all  the 
animals  had  withdrawn.  We  did,  however,  kill  a  fine  deer, 
which  seemed  embarrassed  and  stood  motionless  upon  the 
bank  of  the  river  as  if  to  receive  the  mortal  blow.  Five 
times  we  were  on  the  point  of  perishing  by  being  over- 
turned among  the  numerous  snags,  upon  which  the  ice- 
floes dragged  us  despite  all  our  efforts.  We  passed  ten 
days  in  this  dangerous  and  disquieting  navigation,  sleep- 
ing on  sand-bars  at  night  and  taking  only  two  meals,  even- 
17 


258  REMAINDER  OF  THE  JOURNEY. 

ing  and  morning;  besides,  we  had  nothing  in  the  way  of 
food  but  frozen  potatoes  and  a  Httle  fresh  meat.  The  very 
night  of  our  arrival  among  our  Fathers  at  Council  Bluffs, 
the  river  closed.  It  would  be  in  vain  for  me  to  attempt 
to  tell  what  I  felt  at  finding  myself  once  more  amidst  our 
brothers,  after  having  traveled  2,000  Flemish  leagues,  in 
the  midst  of  the  greatest  dangers  and  across  the  territories 
of  the  most  barbarous  nations.  I  had,  however,  the  grief 
of  observing  the  ravages  which  unprincipled  men,  liquor- 
sellers,  had  caused  in  this  budding  mission;  drunkenness, 
with  the  invasions  of  the  Sioux  on  the  other  hand,  had 
finally  dispersed  my  poor  savages.  While  awaiting  a  more 
favorable  turn  of  events,  the  good  Fathers  Verreydt  and 
[Christian]  Hoeken^^  busy  themselves  with  the  cares  of 
their  holy  ministry  among  some  fifty  families  that  have 
had  the  courage  to  resist  these  two  enemies.  I  discharged 
my  commission  to  them  from  the  Sioux,  and  I  venture  to 
hope  that  in  future  they  will  be  quiet  in  that  quarter. 

I  left  Council  Bluffs  on  the  14th  of  December  for  West- 
port,  a  frontier  town  of  Missouri.  I  met  neither  obstacle 
nor  accident  in  the  country  of  the  Otoes,  lowas,  Sauks, 
Kickapoos,  Delawares  and  Shawanos,  which  I  traversed. 
On  the  night  of  the  22d  I  found  myself  at  Father  Point's 
at  Westport.  On  the  day  following  I  took  the  stage  in 
the  town  of  Independence,  and  on  New  Year's  eve  I  ar- 
rived among  my  dear  brothers  at  the  University  of  St. 
Louis. 

I  am  now  preparing  to  return  to  that  untended  vineyard 
of  the  Lord.  I  shall  start  early  in  the  spring,  accompanied 
by  two  fathers  and  three  brothers  of  our  community.  You 
know  that  such  an  undertaking  cannot  be  carried  out  with- 

if^  The  name  of  this  missionary  and  his  brother  Adrien,  constantly 
recurring  throughout  this  work,  was  sometimes  spelled  "  Hoeken  "  by 
Father  De  Smet  and  his  associates,  and  sometimes  "  Hoecken."  The 
present  editors  have  preferred  to  adopt  the  briefer  form,  though  aware 
that  Father  Adrien  Hoeken,  at  least,  used  the  longer  in  his  signature. 


APPEAL  FOR  FUNDS.  259 

out  proportionate  means,  and  it  is  a  fact  that  I  have  nothing 
assured ;  all  my  hope  is  in  Providence  and  in  my  friends' 
zeal;  I  hope  that  they  will  not  fail  me.  I  know  that  you 
take  much  interest  in  this  deserving  work;  this  is  why  I 
take  the  liberty  of  recommending  it  to  your  generosity  and 
to  that  of  your  friends;  the  smallest  contribution  will  be  a 
material  help. 

I  commend  myself,  as  well  as  my  dear  neophytes,  to  your 
fervent  and  holy  sacrifices,  and  am,  etc. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

A  SECOND  ACCOUNT  OF  THE  JOURNEY  OF  1840.^ 

The  start  from  Westport  again  —  Andrew  Drips  —  The  Cheyennes 
willing  to  receive  missionaries  —  The  polyglot  mass  at  the  rendezvous 

—  How  the  Flatheads  and  Pend  d'Oreilles  welcomed  him  —  They  learn 
their  prayers  and  many  receive  baptism  —  The  return  journey  eastward 

—  The  Crows  —  Michael  Insula  —  Across  the  desert  and  down  the  river. 

Reverend  and  Dear  Sir: 

*f[  PRESUME  you  are  aware  that  in  the  beginning  of 
■■  last  spring  I  was  sent  by  the  Right  Reverend  Bishop  of 
St.  Louis,  and  my  Provincial,  on  an  exploring  expedition 
to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  in  order  to  ascertain  the  disposi- 
tions of  the  Indians  and  the  prospects  of  success  we  might 
have  if  we  were  to  establish  a  mission  among  them.  It  is 
truly  gratifying  to  me  to  have  so  favorable  a  report  to  make. 
My  occupations  do  not  allow  me  to  enter  into  all  the  details : 
I  shall  therefore  be  satisfied  at  present  with  giving  you  a 
brief  sketch  of  my  journey  and  its  result. 

I  started  from  Westport  on  the  30th  of  April,  in  company 
with  the  annual  expedition  of  the  American  Fur  Company, 
which  for  this  year  had  appointed  the  rendezvous  on  Green 
river,  a  tributary  of  the  Rio  Colorado  of  the  West.  Captain 
Drips,  who  commanded  the  caravan,  treated  me  on  all  oc- 
casions with  the  most  polite  attention.  On  the  sixth  day  of 
our  journey  I  was  seized  with  the  fever  and  ague,  and  have 
been  subject  to  it  for  nearly  five  months.  Nothing  par- 
ticularly worth  noticing  occurred  during  the  journey,  ex- 
cept when  we  halted  in  the  village  of  the  Cheyennes.  I 
was  introduced  to  the  chiefs  as  a  minister  of  the  Great 
Spirit :  they  showed  me  great  deference,  and  I  was  invited 

1  To  the  Reverend  F.  J.  Barbelin.  Dated  St.  Louis  University, 
February  4,  1841.     Published  as  Letter  I  of  the  Letters  and  Sketches. 

[260] 


THE   VISIT   TO   THE   CHEYENNES.  261 

to  a  feast.  I  had  to  pass  at  first  through  all  the  ceremonies 
of  the  calumet;  the  great  chief  approached  me  to  shake 
hands,  and  gave  me  a  heartfelt  "  How  do  you  do."  "  Black- 
gown,"  said  he,  "  my  heart  was  filled  with  joy  when  I 
learned  who  you  were.  My  lodge  never  received  a  visitor 
for  whom  I  feel  a  greater  esteem.  As  soon  as  I  was  apprised 
of  your  coming,  I  ordered  my  great  kettle  to  be  filled,  and  in 
your  honor  I  commanded  that  my  three  fattest  dogs  should 
be  served  up."  The  bravest  warriors  of  the  nation  partook 
of  the  repast,  and  I  availed  myself  of  the  opportunity  to 
explain  to  them  the  most  important  tenets  of  Christianity. 
I  told  them  the  object  of  my  visit,  and  enquired  whether 
they  would  not  be  satisfied  to  have  also  Black-gowns  among 
them,  who  would  teach  them  to  love  and  serve  the  Great 
Spirit,  as  he  wished.  "  Oh  yes,"  they  eagerly  answered, 
"  we  will  gladly  provide  for  everything  that  they  stand  in 
need  of;  they  will  not  die  of  hunger  amongst  us."  I  have 
no  doubt  but  a  zealous  missionary  would  do  a  great  deal  of 
good  among  them.^  They  are  about  2,000  in  number.  Their 
language,  it  is  said,  is  very  difficult. 

On  the  30th  of  June  we  arrived  at  the  rendezvous.  An 
escort  of  warriors  had  been  provided  for  me  by  the  Flat- 
heads.  Our  meeting  was  that  of  children  who  came  to 
meet  their  parent,  and  in  the  effusion  of  their  heart,  they 
bestowed  upon  me  the  fondest  names  with  a  simplicity  truly 
patriarchal.  They  told  me  of  all  the  interesting  particulars 
of  their  nation,  and  of  the  wonderful  preservation  of  sixty 
of  their  men,  in  a  battle  against  200  Blackfeet,  which  lasted 
five  whole  days,  and  in  which  they  killed  fifty  of  their 
enemies,  without  losing  a  single  man  of  their  number.  "  The 
Great  Spirit  watched  over  them;"  they  said,  "  he  knew  that 

2  No  formal  movement  for  the  conversion  of  the  Cheyennes  was, 
hovi'ever,  made  by  Catholic  priests  until  1882.  Father  De  Smet  bap- 
tized 253  children  of  the  Cheyennes  at  the  Grand  Council  of  1851. 
"  There  are  in  their  midst  those  still  living  who  remember  the  great 
Black  Robe  and  take  a  pardonable  pride  in  the  fact  that  they  were 
baptized  by  him." — Palladinn. 


262  THE  MASS  IN  MANY  TONGUES. 

we  were  to  guide  you  to  our  camp,  and  he  wanted  to  clear 
the  road  of  all  the  obstacles  that  you  might  have  found  on 
your  way.  We  trust  we  will  not  be  annoyed  any  more  by 
the  Blackfeet;  they  went  off  weeping  like  women."  We 
thanked  heaven  for  the  signal  preservation,  and  implored 
its  assistance  for  the  new  and  perilous  journey  we  were  on 
the  point  of  undertaking.  The  Indians  of  different  nations 
and  the  trappers  had  assembled  at  the  rendezvous  in  great 
numbers,  for  the  sake  of  the  trade.  On  Sunday,  the  5th 
of  July,  I  had  the  consolation  of  celebrating  the  holy  sacri- 
fice of  mass  sttb  dio.  The  altar  was  placed  on  an  elevation, 
and  surrounded  with  boughs  and  garlands  of  flowers;  I 
addressed  the  congregation  in  French  and  in  English,  and 
spoke  also  by  an  interpreter  to  the  Flatheads  and  Snake  In- 
dians. It  was  a  spectacle  truly  moving  for  the  heart  of  a 
missionary,  to  behold  an  assembly  composed  of  so  many 
different  nations,  who  all  assisted  at  our  holy  mysteries  with 
great  satisfaction.  The  Canadians  sang  hymns  in  French 
and  Latin,  and  the  Indians  in  their  native  tongue.  It  was 
truly  a  Catholic  worship.  *  *  *  This  place  has  been 
called  since  that  time,  by  the  French  Canadians,  la  prairie  de 
la  Messe. 

About  thirty  of  the  principal  chiefs  of  the  Snake  Indians 
invited  me  to  a  council.  I  explained  to  them  the  Christian 
doctrine  in  a  compendious  manner  —  they  were  all  very  at- 
tentive —  they  then  deliberated  among  themselves  for  about 
half  an  hour,  and  one  of  the  chiefs,  addressing  me  in  the 
name  of  the  others,  said :  "  Black-gown,  the  words  of  thy 
mouth  have  found  their  way  to  our  hearts ;  they  never  will 
be  forgotten.  Our  country  is  open  for  thee;  come  to  teach 
us  what  we  have  to  do,  to  please  the  Great  Spirit,  and  we 
will  do  according  to  thy  words."  I  advised  them  to  select 
among  themselves  a  wise  and  prudent  man,  who,  every 
morning  and  evening,  should  assemble  them  to  offer  to  Al- 
mighty God  their  prayers  and  supplications ;  that  there  the 
good  chiefs  should  have  an  opportunity  of  exhorting  their 
warriors  to  behave  as  they  ought.     The  meeting  was  held 


DE  SMET   DECLINES   TO    BE   A    CHIEF.  263 

the  very  same  evening,  and  the  great  chief  promulgated  a 
law,  that  for  the  future,  the  one  who  would  be  guilty  of 
theft,  or  of  any  other  disorderly  act,  should  receive  a  public 
castigation.  On  Monday,  the  6th,  we  proceeded  on  our 
journey.  A  dozen  Canadians  wished  to  accompany  me,  to 
have  an  opportunity,  as  they  said,  to  practice  their  religion. 
Eight  days  afterward  we  arrived  safely  in  the  camp  of  the 
Flatheads  and  Ponderas,  or  Pend  d'Oreilles. 

Immediately  the  whole  village  was  in  commotion;  men, 
women  and  children,  all  came  to  meet  me  and  shake  hands, 
and  I  was  conducted  in  triumph  to  the  lodge  of  the  great 
chief  Tjolizhitzay  (Big  Face).  He  has  the  appearance  of 
an  old  patriarch.  Surrounded  by  the  principal  chiefs  of  the 
two  tribes,  and  the  most  renowned  warriors,  he  thus  ad- 
dressed me:  "  This  day  Kaikolinzoeten  (the  Great  Spirit) 
has  accomplished  our  wishes,  and  our  hearts  are  swelled 
with  joy.  Our  desire  to  be  instructed  was  so  great,  that 
three  times  had  we  deputed  our  people  to  the  Great  Black- 
gown  (the  bishop)  in  St.  Louis,  to  obtain  a  father.  Now, 
Father,  speak,  and  we  will  comply  with  all  you  will  tell  us. 
Show  us  the  road  we  have  to  follow,  to  come  to  the  place 
where  the  Great  Spirit  resides."  Then  he  resigned  his  au- 
thority to  me;  but  I  replied  that  he  mistook  the  object  of  my 
coming  among  them ;  that  I  had  no  other  object  in  view  but 
their  spiritual  welfare ;  that  with  respect  to  temporal  affairs, 
they  should  remain  as  they  were,  till  circumstances  should 
allow  them  to  settle  in  a  permanent  spot.  Afterward  we 
deliberated  on  the  hours  proper  for  their  spiritual  exercises 
and  instructions.  One  of  the  chiefs  brought  me  a  bell,  with 
which  I  might  give  the  signal. 

The  same  evening  about  2,000  persons  were  assembled 
before  my  lodge  to  recite  night  prayers  in  common.  I  told 
them  the  result  of  my  conference  with  the  chiefs ;  of  the 
plan  of  instructions  which  I  intended  to  pursue;  and  with 
what  disposition  they  ought  to  assist  at  them,  etc.  Night 
prayers  having  been  said,  a  solemn  canticle  of  praise,  of 
their  own  composition,  was  sung  by  these  children  of  the 


264  DILIGENCE  OF  THE  FLATHEADS. 

mountains  to  the  Author  of  their  being.  It  would  be  im- 
possible for  me  to  describe  the  emotions  I  felt  at  this  mo- 
ment; I  wept  for  joy.  and  admired  the  marvelous  ways  of 
that  kind  Providence,  who,  in  his  infinite  mercy,  had  deigned 
to  depute  me  to  this  poor  people,  to  announce  to  them  the 
glad  tidings  of  salvation.  The  next  day  I  assembled  the 
council,  and  with  the  assistance  of  an  intelligent  interpreter 
[Gabriel  Prudhomme],  I  translated  into  their  language  the 
Lord's  Prayer,  the  Hail  Mary,  the  Apostles'  Creed,  the  Ten 
Commandments,  and  four  Acts.  As  I  was  in  the  habit  of 
reciting  these  prayers  morning  and  evening,  and  before  in- 
structions, about  a  fortnight  after  I  promised  a  beautiful 
silver  medal  to  the  one  who  would  recite  them  first.  One 
of  the  chiefs  rising  immediately,  "  Father,"  said  he,  smiling, 
**  that  medal  is  mine,"  and  he  recited  all  the  prayers  with- 
out missing  a  word.  I  embraced  him,  praised  the  eagerness 
which  he  had  evinced  of  being  instructed,  and  appointed 
him  my  catechist.  This  good  Indian  set  to  work  with  so 
much  zeal  and  perseverance,  that  in  less  than  a  fortnight  all 
knew  their  prayers. 

Every  morning,  at  the  break  of  day,  the  old  chief  is  the 
first  on  horseback,  and  goes  round  the  camp  from  lodge  to 
lodge.  "  Now,  my  children,"  he  exclaims,  "  it  is  time  to 
rise;  let  the  first  thoughts  of  your  hearts  be  for  the  Great 
Spirit;  say  that  you  love  him,  and  beg  of  him  to  be  merci- 
ful unto  you.  Make  haste,  our  Father  will  soon  ring  the 
bell,  open  your  ears  to  listen,  and  your  hearts  to  receive  the 
words  of  his  mouth."  Then,  if  he  has  perceived  any  dis- 
orderly act  on  the  preceding  day,  or  if  he  has  received  un- 
favorable reports  from  the  other  chiefs,  he  gives  them  a 
fatherly  admonition.  Who  would  not  think  that  this  could 
only  be  found  in  a  well-ordered  and  religious  community, 
and  yet  it  is  among  Indians  in  the  defiles  and  valleys  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains!!!  You  have  no  idea  of  the  eagerness 
they  showed  to  receive  religious  instruction.  I  explained 
the  Christian  doctrine  four  times  a  day,  and  nevertheless  my 
lodge  was  filled,  the  whole  day,  with  people  eager  to  hear 


WALKING  bear's  APOLOGY  PRO  VITA  SUA.  265 

more.  At  night  I  related  those  histories  of  the  holy  scrip- 
tures that  were  best  calculated  to  promote  their  piety  and 
edification,  and  as  I  happened  to  observe  that  I  was  afraid 
of  tiring  them,  "  Oh,  no,"  they  replied,  "  if  we  were  not 
afraid  of  tiring  you,  we  would  gladly  spend  here  the  whole 
night." 

I  conferred  the  holy  sacrament  of  baptism  on  600  of  them, 
and  if  I  thought  it  prudent  to  postpone  the  baptism  of  others 
till  my  return,  it  was  not  for  want  of  desire  on  their  part, 
but  chiefly  to  impress  upon  their  minds  a  greater  idea  of 
the  holiness  of  the  sacrament,  and  of  the  dispositions  that 
are  required  to  receive  it  worthily.  Among  those  baptized 
were  the  two  great  chiefs  of  the  Flatheads  and  of  the 
Ponderas.  As  I  excited  the  catechumens  to  a  heartfelt  con- 
trition of  their  sins,  Walking  Bear,  chief  of  the  Ponderas, 
answered :  **  Father,  I  have  been  plunged  for  a  number  of 
years  in  profound  ignorance  of  good  and  evil,  and  no  doubt, 
during  that  time,  I  have  often  greatly  displeased  the  Gre^t 
Spirit,  and  therefore  I  must  humbly  beseech  his  pardon. 
But  when  I  afterward  conceived  that  a  thing  was  bad,  I 
banished  it  from  my  heart,  and  I  do  not  recollect  to  have 
since  deliberately  offended  the  Great  Spirit."  Truly,  where 
such  dispositions  are  found,  we  may  well  conclude  that  a 
rich  harvest  is  to  be  gathered. 

I  remained  two  months  among  these  good  people,  and 
every  day  they  were  adding  to  my  consolations,  by  their 
fervor  in  prayer,  by  their  assiduity  in  coming  to  my  instruc- 
tions, and  by  their  docility  in  putting  into  practice  what 
they  had  been  taught. 

The  season  being  far  advanced,  and  as  I  had  waited  in 
vain  for  a  safe  opportunity  to  return  to  St.  Louis,  I  resolved 
to  commit  myself  entirely  to  Providence,  and  on  the  27th 
of  August  I  took  leave  of  my  dear  neophytes.  I  appointed 
one  of  the  chiefs  to  replace  me  during  my  absence,  who 
should  preside  in  their  evening  and  morning  devotions,  and 
on  the  Sabbath  exhort  them  to  virtue,  baptize  the  little 
children,  and  those  who  were  dangerously  ill.     Grief  was 


266  ACROSS  THE  BLACKFOOT  COUNTRY. 

depicted  on  the  features  of  all,  and  tears  were  glistening  in 
every  eye.  The  old  chief  addressed  me,  saying,  "  Father, 
the  Great  Spirit  accompany  thee  in  thy  long  and  dangerous 
voyage;  every  day,  morning  and  evening,  we  will  address 
to  him  our  humble  supplications,  that  thou  mayest  arrive 
safely  among  thy  brethren.  And  we  will  continue  to  do 
so,  till  thou  be  again  among  thy  children  of  the  mountains. 
We  are  now  like  the  trees  that  have  been  spoiled  of  their 
verdure  by  winter's  blast.  When  the  snow  will  have  dis- 
appeared from  these  valleys,  and  the  grass  begins  to  grow, 
our  hearts  will  begin  to  rejoice;  when  the  plants  spring  forth 
our  joy  will  increase;  when  they  blossom,  it  will  still  be 
greater,  and  then  we  will  set  out  to  meet  you.  Farewell, 
Father,  farewell." 

The  chiefs  would  not  suffer  me  to  depart  by  myself  — 
thirty  of  the  bravest  warriors  were  deputed  as  a  safeguard 
to  traverse  the  country  of  the  Blackfeet,  who  are  very  hostile 
to  the  whites,  and  they  were  instructed  to  accompany  me 
as  far  as  need  would  be  of  their  assistance,  I  resolved  to 
take  on  my  return  a  different  route  from  the  one  I  had  taken 
in  coming.  I  was  induced  to  do  so,  in  order  to  visit  the 
forts  of  the  American  Fur  Company  on  the  Missouri  and 
on  the  Yellowstone,  to  baptize  the  children.  After  five  or 
six  days  traveling,  we  fell  in  with  a  war-party  of  the  Crow 
Indians,  who  received  us  very  kindly,  and  we  traveled  to- 
gether for  two  days.  Then  we  directed  our  course  to  the 
Big  Horn,  the  most  considerable  of  the  tributary  streams  of 
the  Yellowstone.  There  we  met  another  party  of  the  same 
nation,  who  were  also  amicably  disposed  toward  us.  As 
there  was  question  about  religion,  I  availed  myself  of  the 
opportunity  to  express  to  them  the  main  articles  of  the 
Christian  faith,  and  as  I  was  depicting  in  lively  colors  the 
torments  of  hell,  and  had  told  them  that  the  Great  Spirit 
had  kindled  this  fire  of  his  wrath  for  those  who  did  not 
keep  the  commandments  I  had  explained  to  them,  one  of 
the  chiefs  uttered  a  horrid  shriek.  "  If  this  be  the  case," 
said  he,  "  then  I  believe  there  are  but  two  in  the  whole 


A    NOTABLE    FLATHEAD.  267 

nation  who  will  not  go  to  that  place;  it  is  the  Beaver  and 
the  Alink;  they  are  the  only  Crows  who  never  stole,  who 
never  killed,  nor  committed  all  the  excesses  which  your  law 
prohibits.  Perhaps  I  am  deceived,  and  then  we  must  all  go 
together."  When  I  left  them  on  the  next  day,  the  chief  put 
a  fine  bell  on  my  horse's  neck,  and  invited  me  to  take  a  turn 
round  the  village.  Next,  he  accompanied  me  for  six  miles. 
After  several  days  of  a  painful  journey  over  rocks  and 
cliffs,  we  arrived  at  last  at  the  Fort  of  the  Crows.  It  is  the 
first  the  American  Fur  Company  possessed  in  that  country. 
My  dear  Flatheads  edified  all  the  inhabitants  by  their  fervor 
and  their  piety.  As  well  in  the  fort  as  on  the  road,  we 
never  missed  performing  in  common  our  evening  and  morn- 
ing devotions,  and  singing  canticles  in  honor  of  the  Al- 
mighty. Frequently,  during  my  stay  with  them,  they  had 
given  me  abundant  proofs  of  their  trust  in  Providence.  I 
cannot  forbear  mentioning  one  instance  that  occurred  during 
my  travels  in  this  place.  One  day  as  dinner  was  preparing 
and  provisions  scarce,  a  countryman  of  mine,  who  accom- 
panied me,  suggested  the  propriety  of  keeping  something 
in  reserve  for  supper.  "  Be  not  uneasy,"  said  the  chief  called 
Ensyla,^  "  I  never  missed  my  supper  in  my  life.  I  trust  in 
the  mercy  of  the  Great  Spirit,  he  will  provide  for  all  our 
wants."     We  had  just  camped  at  night,  when  the  chief 

3 "  Michael "  Ensyla  or  Insula,  called  also  Little  Chief  and  Red 
Feather ;  conspicuous  throughout  Father  De  Smet's  relations  with  the 
Flatheads.  He  had  gone  in  1835  to  Green  river  to  meet  Parker  and 
Whitman,  and  according  to  Palladino,  "  discovering  in  those  gentle- 
men none  of  the  signs  of  the  Black-robe,  would  not  consent  to  have 
them  come  among  his  people."  Parker's  journal  contains  the  follow- 
ing mention  of  him :  "  Next  arose  Insala,  the  most  influential  chief 
among  the  Flathead  nation,  and  said,  *  he  had  heard,  a  man  near  to 
God  (meaning  a  minister  of  the  gospel)  was  coming  to  visit  them, 
and  he,  with  some  of  his  people,  together  with  some  white  men,  went 
out  three  days'  journey  to  meet  him,  but  missed  us.  A  war-party  of 
Crow  Indians  came  upon  them,  and  took  away  some  of  their  horses, 
and  one  from  him  which  he  greatly  loved,  but  now  he  forgets  all,  his 
heart  is  made  so  glad  to  see  a  man  near  to  God.'  There  was  a  short 
battle,  but  no  lives  were  lost." 


268  THE  ESCORT  TURNS  BACK. 

killed  two  stags.  "  Did  I  not  tell  you  right?  "  he  remarked, 
smilingly,  to  my  companion.  "  You  see  the  Great  Spirit 
does  not  only  provide  for  our  wants  of  this  evening,  but  he 
gives  us  also  a  supply  for  to-morrow." 

Now  began  the  most  difficult  and  most  perilous  part  of 
our  journey.  I  had  to  pass  through  a  country  supposed  to 
be  overrun  by  war-parties,  of  the  Blackfeet,  Assiniboins, 
Grosventres,  Aricaras  and  Sioux.  All  these  nations  enter- 
tained the  most  hostile  dispositions  toward  the  Flatheads. 
I  therefore  dispensed  with  their  services  any  farther.  I 
again  excited  them  to  continue  the  good  work  they  had 
begun;  to  be  steadfast  in  their  faith;  regular  in  their  de- 
votions ;  charitable  toward  one  another.  I  embraced  them  all 
and  took  my  leave.  Mr.  John  de  Velder,  a  native  of  Ghent 
in  Belgium,  had  volunteered  his  services  to  me  at  the  rendez- 
vous. In  consideration  of  the  bad  state  of  my  health,  I 
deemed  myself  very  happy  to  accept  of  them ;  he  has  never 
left  me  since.  He  was  now  to  be  my  only  traveling  com- 
panion. As  there  is  no  road,  we  followed  the  direction  of 
the  river ;  at  intervals  we  were  obliged  to  make  immense  cir- 
cuits to  avoid  the  steep  and  craggy  hills  that  defied  our 
passage.  For  200  miles,  we  had  continually  death  before  our 
eyes.  On  the  second  day,  I  discovered  before  daylight  a 
large  smoke  at  a  distance  of  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  We 
hastily  saddled  our  horses  and  following  up  a  ravine  we 
gained  a  high  bluff  unperceived.  At  night  we  did  not  dare 
to  make  fire  for  fear  of  attracting  notice.  Again  about 
dinner  time,  we  found  on  the  road  the  carcase  of  a  buffalo, 
killed  only  two  hours  before;  the  tongue  and  the  marrow- 
bones with  some  other  dainty  pieces  had  been  taken  away. 
Thus  the  kind  Providence  of  our  God  took  care  to  supply 
our  wants. 

We  took  a  direction  contrary  to  the  tracks  of  the  Indians, 
and  spent  a  safe  night  in  the  cliffs  of  the  rocks.  The  next 
day  we  struck  upon  a  spot  where  forty  lodges  had  been  en- 
camped, the  fires  were  yet  in  full  blaze. 

Finally,  we  crossed  the  Missouri  at  the  same  place  where, 


THE  GUARDIAN   MANITOUS.  269 

only  an  hour  before,  a  hundred  lodges  of  ill-minded  Assini- 
boins  had  passed,  and  we  arrived  safe  and  unmolested  at 
Fort  Union,  situated  a  few  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Yellowstone.  In  all  these  forts  great  harmony  and  union 
prevail ;  Mr.  Kipps,  [James  Kipp]  the  present  administrator 
of  them,  is  a  gentleman  well  worthy  of  his  station.  Every- 
where I  was  treated  by  these  gentlemen  with  the  greatest 
politeness  and  kindness,  and  all  my  wants  were  liberally  sup- 
plied. As  I  was  relating  the  particulars  of  this  dangerous 
trip  to  an  Indian  chief,  he  answered :  "  The  Great  Spirit 
has  his  Manitous;  he  has  sent  them  to  take  care  of  your 
steps  and  to  trouble  the  enemies  that  would  have  been  a 
nuisance  to  you."  A  Christian  would  have  said :  Aiigelis 
suis  mandavit  de  te,  ut  custodiant  te  in  omnibus  viis  tuis. 
On  the  23d  of  September  we  set  out  for  the  village  of  the 
Mandans,  in  company  with  three  men  of  the  fort,  who  had 
the  same  destination.  We  met  on  the  road  a  party  of  nine- 
teen Assiniboins,  who  were  returning  to  their  country  from 
an  unsuccessful  expedition  against  the  Grosventres.  Their 
looks  indicated  their  bad  intentions :  although  we  were  but 
five  in  number,  we  showed  a  determined  countenance,  and 
we  passed  unmolested.  Next  day  we  crossed  a  forest,  the 
winter  quarters  of  the  Grosventres  and  Aricaras  in  1835. 
It  was  there  that  those  unfortunate  tribes  were  nearly  ex- 
terminated by  the  smallpox.  We  saw  their  bodies  wrapped 
up  in  buffalo  robes,  tied  to  the  branches  of  the  largest  trees. 
It  was  truly  a  sad  and  mournful  spectacle.  Two  days  later 
we  met  the  miserable  survivors  of  these  unhappy  tribes. 
Only  ten  families  of  the  Mandans,  once  such  a  powerful 
nation,  now  remain.  They  have  united  with  the  Grosventres 
and  Aricaras.  They  received  me  with  great  demonstrations 
of  friendship ;  I  spent  that  night  in  their  camp,  and  the  next 
day  crossed  the  Missouri  in  their  canoe,  made  of  a  buffalo 
skin.  The  next  day  we  came  to  the  first  village  of  the 
Aricaras,  and  on  the  following  day  to  their  great  village, 
consisting  of  about  a  hundred  earthen  wigwams.  This  tribe 
also  received  me  very  kindly.     On  the  6th  of  October  we 


2/0  HARDSHIPS   OF    CANOE   TRAVEL. 

started  from  the  Mandan  village,  for  Fort  Pierre,  on  the 
little  Missouri;  a  Canadian,  whose  destination  lay  in  the 
same  direction,  accompanied  us,*  *  *  *  j^  due  time  we 
arrived  at  Fort  Pierre.  Thence  I  traveled  through  prairies 
for  nineteen  days  successively.  We  were  often  obliged  to 
cook  our  victuals  with  dried  herbs  —  not  a  stick  was  to  be 
found.  When  I  arrived  at  Fort  Vermillion,  *  *  *  j 
had  lost  two  horses  on  the  road ;  the  one  I  was  riding  could 
hardly  support  me  any  longer,  and  I  was  yet  300  miles  dis- 
tant from  the  Council  Bluffs.  I  resolved  of  course  to  em- 
bark on  the  Missouri,  and  engaged  a  native  Iroquois  to  be 
my  pilot.  At  first  we  were  favored  with  fine  weather,  but 
this  lasted  only  a  few  days.  Very  soon  inclement  weather 
set  in,  with  frost  and  snow ;  and  several  times  as  we  drifted 
down  the  rapid  stream,  our  frail  canoe  was  on  the  point  of 
being  dashed  to  pieces  against  the  numberless  snags  that 
obstruct  its  navigation.  This  dangerous  trip  lasted  ten  days. 
We  generally  spent  the  night  on  a  sand-bar.  We  had  only 
a  few  frozen  potatoes  left  when  we  perceived  a  beautiful 
deer  gazing  at  us,  and  apparently  waiting  to  receive  its  mor- 
tal blow.  We  shot  at  it.  At  last  we  arrived  safe  at  the 
bluffs,  and  on  the  same  night  the  river  was  closed  by  ice. 
So  many  escapes  from  the  midst  of  so  many  dangers 
thoroughly  convinced  me  that  this  undertaking  is  the  work 
of  God  —  omnia  disponens  fortiter  et  ad  Unem  suam  con- 
ducens  suaviter.  I  am  now  preparing  for  my  return,  and 
will  start  early  in  spring,  accompanied  by  three  fathers  and 
as  many  brothers.  You  are  aware  such  expeditions  cannot 
be  undertaken  without  the  necessary  means,  and  the  fact  is, 
I  have  no  other  reliance  than  Providence  and  the  kindness 
of  my  friends.  I  hope  they  will  not  be  wanting.  I  know 
that  you  must  feel  deeply  interested  in  this  meritorious  good 
work,  I  therefore  take  the  liberty  of  recommending  it  to 
your  generosity,  and  that  of  your  friends  —  every  little  con- 

*  The  portions  emitted  here  are  nearly  identical  with  corresponding 
passages  in  the  previous  letter. 


FINANCIAL   AID    NEEDED.  27 1 

tribution  will  help.  I  will  be  very  grateful  to  you,  if  you 
have  the  kindness  to  forward  to  my  address  at  the  St.  Louis 
University,  Mo.,  before  the  end  of  March,  or  middle  of 
April,  the  amount  you  have  collected. 

I  recommend  myself  and  my  dear  neophytes  to  your  good 
prayers  and  holy  sacrifices,  and  rest  assured  that  we  shall 
not  forget  our  benefactors. 


CHAPTER  V. 

ST.  LOUIS  TO  THE  PLATTE  RIVER 1841.-^ 

How  Father  De  Smet  raised  the  money  to  keep  his  promises  to  the 
Flatheads  —  Delays  at  Westpcrt  —  The  mixed  company  that  started  — 
The  missionary  party  —  A  visit  to  the  Kansas  Indians  in  their  village  — 
Father  Point's  whiskers  —  White  Plume  —  Catholic  and  Protestant  — 
The  Pawnees. 

To  the  Editor  the  Catholic  Herald, 
Steamboat  Oceana,  Mo.  River, 
May  I,  1841. 
Reverend  and  Dear  Sir: 

♦fl"  CANNOT  set  out  for  my  distant  mission,  without  ex- 
"  pressing  through  the  medium  of  your  excellent  paper, 
my  grateful  thanks  to  the  friends  who  have  come  forward 
with  such  noble  and  disinterested  generosity,  and  offered 
the  means  of  carrying  the  gospel  of  peace  and  salvation  to 
the  uninstructed  savage  of  the  mountains.  You,  Reverend 
Sir,  who  are  engaged  in  the  same  sublime  vocation,  the 
salvation  of  souls,  may  form  an  idea  from  my  former  letter 
of  my  ardent  desire  to  labor  among  the  poor  forsaken  chil- 
dren of  the  Oregon;  among  whom  I  resided  three  months 
and  who  hailed  my  arrival  with  so  much  joy;  listened  with 
so  much  eagerness  and  docility  to  my  instructions,  and  ex- 
hibited in  their  whole  conduct  the  wonderful  fruits  which 
the  word  of  God  produced  in  a  few  weeks  in  hearts  well 
disposed. 

1  This  chapter  consists  of  Letter  III,  Letters  and  Sketches,  and 
Letter  I,  Second  Voyage,  Voyages  aux  Montagues  Rocheuses,  dated 
as  above  in  both  and  addressed  respectively  to  the  Father  Provincial 
and  to  Father  De  Smet's  brothers  Charles  and  Francis.  The  pub- 
lished letters  also  contain  a  brief  account  of  a  case  of  human  sacrifice 
among  the  Pawnees,  which  is  omitted  here  because  described  more 
fully  elsewhere  in  this  work.  The  English  text  is  followed  in  the 
main. 

[272] 


HOW    FUNDS   WERE  RAISED.  273 

I  had  visited  them  only  for  the  purpose  of  ascertaining 
the  prospect  of  forming  a  permanent  estabhshment  for  their 
entire  con\ersion.  I  was,  of  course,  obHged  to  return,  in 
order  to  report  the  result  of  my  observations  to  my  superior. 
When  about  to  leave,  my  good  neophytes  crowded  around 
me,  as  children  around  a  beloved  parent;  their  tears  and 
sobs  told  how  truly  they  grieved  for  our  separation.  The 
only  consolation  that  I  could  offer  then  was  the  assurance 
that  I  would  return  in  the  spring.  This  was  my  promise ; 
this,  their  hope.  "  Father,"  said  they  in  their  simple  and 
beautiful  language,  "  Father,  when  the  snow  shall  have  dis- 
appeared from  these  hills,  we  shall  think  of  your  return ; 
when  the  plants  begin  to  spring  forfli,  we  shall  set  out  to 
meet  you.    Farewell !  " 

We  parted.  I  repassed  the  mountains,  traversed  the 
prairies  and  forests  under  the  guidance  of  the  good  angels 
who  had  charge  to  watch  over  me.  On  my  arrival  at  St. 
Louis,  I  gave  an  account  to  my  superior  of  my  journey 
r.nd  of  the  flattering  prospects  which  the  mission  beyond  the 
Rocky  Mountains  held  out.  You  will  easily  believe  me  when 
I  tell  you  that  my  heart  sank  within  me  on  learning  from 
him  that  the  funds  at  his  disposal  for  missionary  purposes 
would  not  enable  him  to  afford  me  scarcely  the  half  of  what 
would  be  necessary  for  the  outfit  and  other  expenses  of  an 
expedition.  The  thought  that  the  undertaking  would  have 
been  given  up,  that  I  would  not  be  able  to  redeem  my  prom- 
ise to  the  poor  Indians,  pierced  my  very  heart  and  filled  me 
with  the  deepest  sorrow.  I  would  have  desponded  had  I 
not  already  experienced  the  visible  protection  of  the  Al- 
mighty in  the  prosecution  of  this  great  work.  My  confi- 
dence in  him  was  unabated.  Whilst  in  this  state  of  mind 
one  of  my  friends  encouraged  me  to  appeal  to  the  zealous 
and  learned  coadjutor  of  Philadelphia  and  to  his  inde- 
fatigable clergy.  1  immediately  acted  upon  the  thought. 
I  did  appeal  and  with  what  success  the  Catholic  public  al- 
ready know.  To  the  Bishop  who  gave  his  sanction  to  the 
plan  of  a  general  and  simultaneous  collection  throughout  his 
i8 


274  GENEROUS  CONTRIBUTIONS. 

diocese;  to  the  clergy  of  the  different  churches  of  the  city 
who  so  kindly  interested  themselves  in  this  good  work  and 
proposed  it  to  their  congregations;  to  the  generous  people 
of  Philadelphia  who  so  liberally  responded  to  the  call  of 
their  pastors,  I  return  my  sincere  thanks  and  will  daily 
beg  the  father  of  mercies  to  reward  them  with  his  choicest 
blessings. 

I  must  not  omit  to  mention  of  other  generous  contributors. 
After  having  written  to  Philadelphia  I  was  advised  to  visit 
New  Orleans  and  recommend  the  cause  of  the  Indians  to 
the  good  Bishop  of  that  city  and  to  his  clergy  and  people. 
I  did  so.  The  Bishop  received  me  with  great  kindness ;  gave 
his  approbation  to  a  collection,  and  placed  his  name  first  on 
the  list.  His  clergy  followed  his  example.  As  I  had  only 
a  few  days  at  my  disposal,  I  thought  it  was  best  to  solicit 
subscriptions  through  several  generous  ladies  who  offered 
themselves  for  this  purpose.  In  the  space  of  three  or  four 
days,  they  collected  nearly  $i,ooo.  You  have  no  idea  with 
what  spirit  the  pious  portion  of  the  people  entered  into  the 
affair.  Almost  every  moment  of  my  stay  persons  came  to 
offer  me  something  for  the  Indian  mission.  Several  ladies 
gave  me  various  trinkets,  such  as  ear-rings,  bracelets,  and 
ornaments  of  every  description ;  others  brought  implements 
and  articles,  which  will  be  of  great  use  in  the  Indian  coun- 
try. In  a  word,  Reverend  Sir,  I  left  New  Orleans  with 
$1,100  in  cash  and  six  boxes  full  of  various  and  most  useful 
articles.  From  the  Reverend  Mr.  Durbin  of  Kentucky  I 
received  $300,  and  the  Reverend  Jno.  O'Reilly  remitted 
$140,  the  amount  collected  in  St.  Paul's  Church,  Pittsburg. 
St.  Louis  supplied  the  balance  of  what  was  necessary  for 
the  outfit,  the  expenses  of  the  journey  and  the  commence- 
ment of  the  establishment  in  the  Indian  country.  To  the 
Bishops  and  to  the  zealous  clergy  and  laity  of  Philadelphia 
and  New  Orleans ;  to  the  clergy  and  laity  of  other  places 
who  aided  the  good  cause ;  in  a  word,  to  all  the  benefactors 
of  the  mission  beyond  the  Rocky  Mountains,  I  again  re- 
turn my  sincere  thanks.    Myself  and  my  fellow-laborers  will 


THE    PLATTE   AGAIN.  275 

teach  our  neophytes  to  pray  for  those  who  have  been  instru- 
mental in  procuring  them  so  much  good.  In  conclusion, 
Reverend  Sir,  I  would  solicit  your  fervent  prayers  and  those 
of  all  good  Christians,  who  may  read  this  account.  Our 
journey  is  perilous  in  the  extreme.  We  must  pass  through 
the  countries  of  hostile  tribes  —  tribes  that  thirst  for  the 
blood  of  the  white  man.  I  hope,  therefore,  that  reverend 
brethren  will  not  forget  us  at  the  holy  altar;  and  that  the 
pious  Christians  who  are  interested  in  our  mission  will 
sometimes  offer  up  for  us  a  Pater  and  Ave.  The  expedition 
will  leave  Westport  about  the  12th  of  May. 

Your  obedient  servant,  etc. 


Reverend  and  Very  Dear  Father  Provincial: 

Behold  us  at  last  on  our  way  toward  the  long- 
wished  for  Rocky  Mountains,  already  inured  to  the  fatigues 
of  the  journey  and  full  of  the  brightest  hopes.  It  is  now 
afternoon  and  we  are  sitting  on  the  banks  of  a  river  which, 
it  is  said,  has  not  its  equal  in  the  world.  The  Indians  call  it 
Nebraska  or  Big  Horn;  the  Canadians  give  it  the  name  of 
la  Platte  f  and  Irving  designates  it,  as  the  most  magnificent 
and  useless  of  rivers.  The  sequel  will  show  that  it  deserves 
these  various  affixes.  It  was  to  enjoy  the  freshness  and 
beauty  of  its  scenery  that  we  traveled  more  than  twenty 
miles  this  morning,  without  breaking  our  fast,  through  a 
wilderness  without  a  single  rivulet  to  water  our  jaded 
horses,  who  must  therefore  rest  where  they  are  till  to-mor- 

2  The  name  Platte  is  characteristic  and  arises  from  the  extremely 
shallow  character  of  the  stream.  Its  use  dates  from  1739.  In  that 
year  two  brothers,  Mallet,  with  six  companions,  undertook  to  reach 
Santa  Fe  from  a  point  on  the  Missouri  somewhere  near  the  present 
site  of  Sioux  City.  They  left  the  river  on  the  29th  of  May  and  ar- 
rived at  the  Platte  June  2.  (Le  2  Juin  Us  tombcrcnt  sur  une  riviere 
qu'  Us  nommcrent  la  Riviere  Platte."  De  Margry.)  The  party  as- 
cended the  main  stream  and  the  South  Fork  to  the  mountains  and 
reached  Santa  Fe  on  the  22d  of  July. 


276  A   MIXED   MULTITUDE. 

row.  I  am  far  from  regretting  the  delay,  as  it  will  give  me 
an  opportunity  of  commencing  a  letter  which,  I  know,  will 
interest  you. 

Like  all  the  works  of  God,  our  humble  beginnings  have 
not  been  unattended  with  trials :  our  journey  had  even  well 
nigh  been  indefinitely  deferred  by  the  postponement  of  two 
caravans  on  which  we  had  confidently  relied ;  one  of  hunters, 
for  the  American  Fur  Company ;  the  other  an  exploring  ex- 
pedition belonging  to  the  United  States,  at  the  head  of  which 
we  expected  to  see  the  celebrated  M.  Nicollet.  Happily  God 
inspired  two  estimable  travelers,  [named  Romaine  and 
Baker]  of  whom  more  hereafter,  and  afterward  some  sixty 
others,^  to  take  the  same  route  as  ourselves,  some  for  health, 
others  for  science  or  pleasure ;  but  the  greater  number  to  seek 
their  fortune  in  the  too  highly  boasted  land  of  California. 
This  caravan  formed  an  extraordinary  mixture  of  different 
nations,  every  country  of  Europe  having  in  it  a  representa- 
tive, my  own  little  band  of  eleven  persons  hailing  from  eight. 

The  difficulties  of  setting  out  once  overcome,  many 
others  followed  in  succession.  We  had  need  of  provisions, 
fire-arms,  implements  of  every  kind,  wagons,  guides,  a 
good  hunter,  an  experienced  captain, —  in  a  word,  what- 
ever becomes  necessary  when  one  has  to  traverse  a  desert 
of  800  leagues,  and  expects  nothing  but  formidable  ob- 
stacles to  surmount,  and  thieving,  and  sometimes  mur- 
derous, enemies  to  combat, —  and  swamps,  ravines  and 
rivers  to  cross,  and  mountains  to  climb,  whose  craggy  and 
precipitous  sides  suddenly  arrest  our  progress,  compelling 
us  to  drag  our  beasts  of  burden  up  their  steep  ascents.  These 

8  The  remains  of  the  "  Western  Emigration  Society,"  organized  in 
Weston,  Missouri,  the  preceding  winter,  with  500  members,  all  but  one 
of  whom  (John  Bidwell)  withdrew  before  the  time  set  for  starting  — 
discouraged,  it  is  said,  by  Thomas  J.  Farnham's  published  account  of 
California.  The  party  as  made  up  was  composed  of  emigrants  from 
Missouri,  an  invalid  named  George  Henshaw  from  Illinois,  three 
families  from  Arkansas,  and  others.  It  was  commanded  by  John 
Bartleson,  and  guided  by  Thomas  Fitzpatrick. 


THE    1840   JOURNEY    REVIEWED.  2/7 

things  are  not  done  without  toil  and  money,  but  thanks 
to  the  generous  charity  of  our  friends  in  Philadelphia,  Cin- 
cinnati, Kentucky,  St.  Louis  and  New  Orleans,  which 
place  I  visited  in  person  and  which  is  always  at  the  head 
of  the  others  when  there  is  a  question  of  relieving  the 
necessities  of  the  poor,  or  showing  compassion  and  munifi- 
cence to  any  who  may  be  in  need  of  assistance,  we  were 
enabled  by  the  resources  thence  supplied,  and  by  a  portion 
of  the  funds  allowed  by  the  Lyons  Association  in  behalf  of 
the  Indian  Missions,  to  undertake  this  long  journey. 

You  have  already  learned  from  my  letters  of  the  past 
year,  that  I  was  specially  sent  among  the  Flatheads  to 
ascertain  their  dispositions  toward  the  Black-gowns, 
whom  they  had  so  long  desired.  I  therefore  started  from 
St.  Louis  in  April,  1840,  and  arrived  on  the  banks  of  the 
Colorado  precisely  at  the  moment  when  a  band  of  Flat- 
heads  reached  that  point  on  their  way  to  meet  me.  It  was 
the  rendezvous  I  had  given  them.  Besides  the  Flatheads, 
I  visited  during  that  journey  many  other  tribes,  such  as 
the  Pend  d'Oreilles  (Ear  Rings)  or  Kalispels,  Nez  Perces 
(Pierced  Noses)  or  Sapetans,  Cheyennes,  Snakes  or  Sho- 
shones,  Crows  or  Absarokas,  Grosventres  or  Minnetarees, 
Aricaras,  Mandans,  Kansas,  the  numerous  nations  of  the 
Sioux  or  Dakotas,  the  Omahas,  Otoes,  lowas,  etc.  Find- 
ing everywhere  such  good  dispositions,  I  resolved,  not- 
withstanding the  approach  of  winter  and  frequent  attacks 
of  fever,  in  order  to  second  the  visible  designs  of  the  divine 
mercy  in  favor  of  so  many  souls,  to  commence  my  journey 
across  the  immense  ocean  of  mountains  and  prairies.  I 
have  traveled  without  any  other  guide  than  a  compass, 
without  any  protection  from  nations  hostile  to  the  whites, 
but  a  veteran  from  Ghent,  formerly  a  grenadier  of  the 
Empire,  any  other  provisions,  in  an  arid  desert,  than  what 
powder  and  ball  and  a  strong  confidence  in  God  might 
procure  us. 

I  shall  not  here  repeat  what  I  have  already  communi- 
cated to  you,  of  my  adventures  and  the  result  of  this  mis- 


v( 


278  THE  MISSIOXARY   PARTY. 

sion.  It  will  suffice  to  say  that  the  unexpected  quickness 
of  my  return  to  St.  Louis,  the  excellent  health  I  enjoyed, 
even  though  it  was  the  midst  of  winter,  and  the  consoling 
accounts  I  had  to  give  of  my  reception  by  the  Flatheads, 
etc.,  etc.,  all  contributed  to  make  the  most  lively  impres- 
sion on  the  hearts  of  our  brethren.  Almost  every  one 
thought  himself  called  to  share  the  labors  of  a  mission 
which  offered  so  many  attractions  to  their  zeal.  After  due 
deliberation,  the  fellow-laborers  allotted  me  were  five  in 
number,  namely,  two  Fathers,  Reverend  Nicolas  Point* 
of  La  Vendee,  as  zealous  and  courageous  for  the  salvation 
of  souls  as  his  compatriot.  La  Roche  Jacquelin,  was  in 
the  service  of  his  lawful  sovereign.  Reverend  Gregory 
Mengarini,^  recently  from  Rome,  specially  selected  by  the 
Father  General  himself  for  this  mission,  on  account  of  his 
age,  his  virtues,  his  great  facility  for  languages  and  his 
knowledge  of  medicine  and  music;  and  three  lay-brothers, 
two  Belgians,  William  Claessens^  and  Charles  Huet,  and 
one  German,  Joseph  Specht,"  of  whom  the  first  is  a  black- 
smith, the  second  a  carpenter,  and  the  third  a  tinner,  or  a 
sort  of  factotum;  all  three  industrious,  devoted  to  the  mis- 
sions and  full  of  good  will.  They  had  long  ardently  de- 
sired to  be  employed  on  these  missions  and  I  thank  God 

*  Father  Point  remained  among  the  Blackfeet  until  the  spring  of 
1847,  when  an  order  from  his  superiors  in  France,  which  had,  accord- 
ing to  Palladino,  been  three  years  on  the  road,  recalled  him  to  the 
missions  of  Upper  Canada.  It  was  his  desire,  as  appears  from  letters 
in  Father  De  Smet's  correspondence,  in  later  years  to  return  to  the 
Northwest.  He  died  at  Quebec,  July  4,  1868.  A  volume  of  Indian 
drawings,  apparently  his  work,  is  preserved  at  the  University  of  St. 
Louis. 

^  Father  Mengarini  was  transferred  to  California  in  1850  and  died 
at  Santa  Clara  September  23,  1866. 

6  Brother  Claessens  remained  among  the  Indians  until  1891,  when 
he  was  ordered  to  California.  He  died  at  Santa  Clara  on  the  nth  of 
October  of  that  year  at  the  age  of  eighty. 

■^  Brother  Specht  died  at  St.  Ignatius  Mission  June  17,  1884,  aged 
seventy-six. 


1 

i 


MISSOURI  AND  KANSAS.  279 

that  had  the  choice  been  left  to  myself,  I  could  have  made 
none  better.  Thus  launched  into  the  midst  of  this  intermi- 
nable Far  West,  how  often  did  I  rei>eat  these  beautiful 
lines  of  Racine: 

O  Dieu,  par  quelles  routes  inconnues  aux  mortels 
Ta  Sagesse  conduit  tes  desseins  eternels ! 

In  seven  days  from  my  departure  from  St.  Louis,  namely 
on  the  30th  of  April,  I  arrived  at  Westport,  a  frontier  town 
on  the  west  of  the  United  States.  It  took  us  seven  days, 
on  board  a  steamboat,  to  perform  this  journey  of  500 
[390]  miles,  no  unfair  average  of  the  time  required  to 
travel  such  a  distance  on  the  Missouri  at  the  breaking  up 
of  the  winter,  when,  though  the  ice  is  melted,  the  water 
is  still  so  low,  the  sand-banks  so  close  together  and  the 
snags  so  numerous  that  boats  cannot  make  greater  head- 
way. *  *  *  We  landed  on  the  right  bank  of  the  river, 
and  took  refuge  in  an  abandoned  little  cabin,  where  a  poor 
Indian  woman  had  died  a  few  days  before,  and  in  this  re- 
treat, so  like  to  that  which  once  merited  the  preference  of 
the  Savior  and  for  which  was  thenceforth  to  be  substi- 
tuted only  the  shelter  of  a  tent  in  the  wilderness,  we  took 
up  our  abode  until  the  loth  of  May  —  occupied  as  well 
we  might  be  in  supplying  the  wants  created  by  the  burning 
of  our  baggage  wagon  on  board  the  steamboat,  the  sick- 
ness of  one  of  our  horses  which  we  were  compelled  to 
leave  after  us,  and  the  loss  of  another  that  escaped  from 
us  at  the  moment  of  landing. 

We  started,  then,  from  Westport,  on  the  loth  of  May, 
and  after  having  passed  by  the  lands  of  the  Shawnees  and 
Delawares,  where  we  saw  nothing  remarkable  but  the  col- 
lege of  the  Methodists,  built,  it  is  easy  to  divine  for  what, 
where  the  soil  is  richest;  we  arrived  after  five  days'  march 
on  the  banks  of  the  Kansas  river,  where  we  found  those  of 
our  companions  who  had  traveled  by  water,  with  a  part 
of  our  baggage.  Two  of  the  relatives  of  the  grand  chief 
had  come  twenty  miles  from  that  place  to  meet  us,  one  of 


28o  INTERVIEW  WITH  A  CHIEF. 

whom  helped  our  horses  to  pass  the  river  in  safety,  by 
swimming  before  them,  and  the  other  announced  our 
arrival  to  the  principal  men  of  the  tribe  who  waited 
for  us  on  the  opposite  bank.  Our  baggage,  wagons  and 
men  crossed  in  a  pirogue,  or  hollowed  tree  trunk,  which, 
at  a  distance,  looked  like  one  of  those  gondolas 
that  glide  through  the  streets  of  Venice.  As  soon 
as  the  Kansas  understood  that  we  were  going  to  en- 
camp on  the  banks  of  the  Soldier's  river,  which  is  only 
six  miles  from  the  village,  they  galloped  rapidly  away  from 
our  caravan,  disappearing  in  a  cloud  of  dust,  so  that  we 
had  scarcely  pitched  our  tents  when  the  great  chief  pre- 
sented himself  with  six  of  his  bravest  warriors,  to  bid  us 
welcome.  After  having  made  me  sit  down  on  a  mat  spread 
on  the  ground,  he,  with  much  solemnity,  took  from  his 
pocket  a  portfolio  containing  the  honorable  titles,  be- 
stowed by  the  American  Congress,  that  gave  him  a  right 
to  our  friendship,  and  placed  them  in  my  hands.  I  read 
them,  and  having,  with  the  tact  of  a  man  accustomed  to 
the  etiquette  of  savage  life,  furnished  him  the  means  of 
smoking  the  calumet,  he  made  us  accept  for  our  guard 
the  two  braves  who  had  come  to  meet  us.  Both  were 
armed  like  warriors,  one  carrying  a  lance  and  a  buckler, 
and  the  other  a  bow  and  arrows,  with  a  naked  sword  and 
a  collar  made  of  the  claws  of  four  bears  which  he  had  killed 
with  his  own  hand.  These  two  braves  remained  faithful 
at  their  post  during  the  three  days  and  three  nights  that 
we  had  to  wait  the  coming  up  of  the  stragglers  of  the 
caravan.  A  small  present  which  we  made  them  at  our 
departure  secured  us  their  friendship. 

( )n  the  19th  we  continued  our  journey  to  the  number  of 
seventy  souls,  fifty  of  whom  were  capable  of  managing  the 
rifle  —  a  force  more  than  sufficient  to  undertake  with  pru- 
dence the  long  march  we  had  to  make.  Whilst  the  rest  of 
our  company  inclined  to  the  west.  Father  Point,  a  young 
Englishman  [Romaine]  and  myself  turned  to  the  left,  to 
visit  the  nearest  village  of  our  hosts.     At  the  first  sight 


VISIT  TO  THE  KANSAS  VILLAGE.  28 1 

of  their  wigwams,  we  were  struck  at  the  resemblance  they 
bore  to  the  large  stacks  of  wheat  which  cover  our  fields 
in  harvest  time.  There  were  of  these  in  all  no  more  than 
about  twenty,  grouped  together  without  order,  but  each 
covering  a  space  of  about  120  feet  in  circumference,  and 
sufficient  to  shelter  from  thirty  to  forty  persons.  The  en- 
tire village  appeared  to  us  to  consist  of  from  seven  to  eight 
hundred  souls  —  an  approximation  which  is  justified  by 
the  fact  that  the  total  population  of  the  tribe  is  confined 
to  two  villages,  together  numbering  1,500  inhabitants. 

These  cabins,  however  humble^  they  may  appear,  are 
solidly  built  and  convenient.  From  the  top  of  the  wall, 
which  is  about  six  feet  in  height,  rise  inclined  poles,  which 
terminate  round  an  opening  above,  serving  at  once  for 
chimney  and  window.  The  door  of  the  edifice  consists  of 
an  undressed  hide  on  the  most  sheltered  side,  the  hearth 
occupies  the  center  and  is  in  the  midst  of  four  upright 
posts  destined  to  support  the  rotunda;  the  beds  are  ranged 
round  the  wall  and  the  space  between  the  beds  and  the 
hearth  is  occupied  by  the  members  of  the  family,  some 
standing,  others  sitting  or  lying  on  skins,  or  yellow 
colored  mats.  It  would  seem  that  this  last-named  article 
is  regarded  as  a  piece  of  extra  finery,  for  the  lodge  assigned 
to  us  had  one  of  them. 

It  would  be  impossible  to  describe  all  the  curiosities  we 
beheld  during  the  hour  we  passed  among  these  truly 
strange  beings;  a  Teniers  would  have  envied  us.  What 
most  excited  our  attention  was  the  strongly  characterized 
physiognomy  of  the  greater  number  of  these  personages, 
their  vivacity  of  expression,  singular  costume,  diversity  of 
amusement  and  fantastic  attitudes  and  gestures.  The 
women  alone  were  occupied,  and  in  order  to  attend  to 
their  various  duties  with  less  distraction,  they  had  placed 
those  of  their  papooses  who  were  unable  to  walk,  on  beds 
or  on  the  floor,  or  at  their  feet,  each  tightly  swathed  and 
fastened  to  a  board,  to  preserve  it  from  being  injured  by 

8  Fr.  humides. 


282  MUTUAL  CURIOSITY. 

surrounding  objects.  This  machine,  which  I  shall  not 
call  either  cradle  or  chair,  is  carried,  when  they  travel, 
either  on  the  back,  after  the  fashion  of  the  gypsies  and 
fortune-tellers  in  Europe,  or  at  their  side,  or  more  fre- 
quently suspended  from  the  pommel  of  the  saddle,  while 
they  lead  or  drive  their  ponies,  laden  with  the  rest  of  their 
goods  and  chattels.  With  such  encumbrances  they  man- 
age to  keep  pace  with  their  husbands,  who  generally  keep 
their  horses  at  a  gallop;  and  the  babies  are  rarely  heard 
to  cry.  But  let  us  return  to  our  wigwam.  How  were 
the  men  occupied?  When  we  entered,  some  were  pre- 
paring to  eat,  (this  is  their  great  occupation  when  they 
are  not  asleep)  others  were  smoking,  discharging  the 
fumes  of  the  tobacco  by  their  mouths  and  nostrils,  re- 
minding one  of  the  funnels  of  a  steamboat;  they  talked, 
they  plucked  out  their  beard  and  the  hair  of  their  eye- 
brows, they  made  their  toilette;  the  head  receiving  par- 
ticular attention.  Contrary  to  the  custom  of  the  other 
tribes,  who  let  the  hair  on  their  heads  grow,  (one  of  the 
Crows  has  hair  eleven  feet  long)  the  Kansas  shave  theirs, 
with  the  exception  of  a  well  curled  tuft  on  the  crown, 
destined  to  be  wreathed  with  the  warrior's  plume  of 
eagle's  feathers,  the  proudest  ornament  with  which  the 
human  head  can  be  adorned.  While  we  were  smoking 
I  could  not  help  watching  the  motions  of  a  young  sav- 
age, a  sort  of  dandy,  who  ceased  not  to  arrange,  over  and 
over  again,  his  bunch  of  feathers  before  a  looking  glass, 
apparently  unable  to  give  it  the  graceful  finish  he  in- 
tended. Father  Point,  having  suffered  his  beard  to  grow, 
soon  became  an  object  of  curiosity  and  laughter,  to  the 
children  —  a  beardless  chin,  a  shaved  head  and  well  picked 
brows  and  eye-lashes  being,  among  them,  indispensable  to 
beauty.  Next  come  the  Plume  and  Slit-ears,  with  their 
pendants  of  beads  and  other  trinkets.  This  is  but  a  part 
of  their  finery,  and  the  pains  thus  taken  to  reach  the  beau- 
ideal  of  personal  decorations,  are  but  a  faint  specimen  of 


OBSERVATIONS  ON  THE  KANSAS.  283 

their  vanity.  Do  you  wish  to  have  an  idea  of  a  Kansa 
satisfied  with  himself  in  the  highest  degree?  Picture  him 
to  yourself  with  rings  of  vermilion  encircling  his  eyes, 
with  white,  black  or  red  streaks  running  down  his  face, 
a  fantastic  necklace,  adorned  in  the  center  with  a  large 
medal  of  silver  or  copper,  dangling  on  his  breast;  bracelets 
of  tin,  copper  or  brass,  on  his  arms  and  wrists;  a  cincture 
of  white  around  his  waist,  a  cutlass  and  scabbard,  em- 
broidered shoes  or  moccasins  on  his  feet;  and,  to  crown 
all,  a  mantle,  it  matters  not  for  the  color,  thrown  over  the 
shoulders  and  falling  around  the  body  in  such  folds  or 
drapery  as  the  wants  or  caprice  of  the  wearer  may  direct, 
and  the  individual  stands  before  you  as  he  exhibited  him- 
self to   us. 

As  for  dress,  manners,  religion,  modes  of  making  war, 
etc.,  the  Kansas  are  like  the  savages  of  their  neighbor- 
hood, with  whom  they  have  preserved  peaceful  and  friendly 
relations  from  time  immemorial.  In  stature,  they  are  gen- 
erally tall  and  well  made.  Their  physiognomy  is  manly, 
their  language  is  guttural,  and  remarkable  for  the  length 
and  strong  accentuation  of  the  final  syllables.  Their  style 
of  singing  is  monotonous,  whence  it  may  be  inferred  that 
the  enchanting  music  heard  on  the  rivers  of  Paraguay 
never  cheers  the  voyager  on  the  otherwise  beautiful 
streams  of  the  country  of  the  Kansas. 

With  regard  to  the  qualities  which  distinguish  man  from 
the  brute,  they  are  far  from  being  deficient.  To  bodily 
strength  and  courage  they  unite  a  shrewdness  and  address 
superior  to  other  savages,  and  in  their  wars  or  the  chase 
they  make  a  dexterous  use  of  fire-arms,  which  gives  them 
a  decided  advantage  over  their  enemies. 

Among  the  chiefs  of  this  tribe  are  found  men  really  dis- 
tinguished in  many  respects.  The  most  celebrated  was 
White  Plume,  whom  the  author  of  the  Conquest  of  Granada^ 
represents  as  a  man  of  great  powers  of  mind  and  chival- 

9  Irving  in  Captain  Bonneville,  chapter  II. 


284  A  REBUKED  MINISTER. 

rous  character.  He  was  endowed  with  uncommon  intel- 
ligence, frankness,  generosity  and  courage.  He  had  been 
particularly  acquainted  with  Reverend  Mr.  De  la  Croix,'"' 
one  of  the  first  Catholic  missionaries  that  visited  that  part 
of  the  West,  and  conceived  for  him  and  his  colleagues,  the 
"  Black-robes,"  profound  esteem.  His  feelings  toward 
the  Protestant  missionaries  were  far  different.  He  had 
neither  esteem  nor  veneration  for  them  or  their  reforma- 
tion. When  on  a  certain  occasion  one  of  them  spoke  to 
him  of  conversion;  "  conversion,"  said  the  unsophisticated 
savage,  "  is  a  good  thing  when  the  change  is  made  for 
something  good.  For  my  part,  I  know  none  such  but 
what  is  taught  and  practiced  by  the  Black-robes.  If  then 
you  desire  me  to  change,  you  must  first  quit  your  wife  and 
then  put  on  the  habit  I  shall  show  you,  and  then  we  shall 
see  further."  This  habit  was  a  priest's  cassock,  which  a 
missionary  had  left  him  with  the  memory  of  his  virtues. 
We  presume  we  need  not  add  that  these  hard  conditions 
were  not  complied  with  by  the  preacher. 

It  is  not  to  be  inferred  from  the  apparent  pleasantry  of 
this  remark  that  the  chief  spoke  lightly  of  religion;  on  the 
contrary,  the  Kansas,  like  all  the  Indian  tribes,  never  speak 
on  the  subject  without  becoming  solemnity.  The  more 
they  are  observed  the  more  evident  does  it  become  that 
the  religious  sentiment  is  deeply  implanted  in  their  souls, 
and  is,  of  all  others,  that  which  is  most  frequently  ex- 
pressed by  their  words  and  actions.  Thus,  for  instance, 
they  never  take  the  calumet,  without  first  rendering  some 
homage  to  the  Great  Spirit.  In  the  midst  of  their  most 
infuriate  passions  they  address  him  certain  prayers,  and 
even  in  assassinating  a  defenseless  child,  or  a  woman,  they 
invoke  the  Master  of  life.     To  be  enabled  to  take  many  a 

10  Charles  De  la  Croix,  born  in  1792  in  Flanders:  came  to  America 
in  1817.  Besides  filling  a  number  of  posts  for  the  Society  in  the  west, 
he  made  two  sojourns  among  the  Osage  Indians  as  missionary.  He 
returned  to  Ghent  in  1839  and  died  August  20,  1869. 


THE  CODE  OF  MURDER.  28$ 

scalp  from  their  enemies,  or  to  rob  them  of  many  horses, 
becomes  the  object  of  their  most  fervid  prayers,  to  which 
they  sometimes  add  fasts,  macerations  and  sacrifices. 
What  did  they  not  do  last  spring,  to  render  the  heavens 
propitious?  And  for  what?  To  obtain  the  power,  in  the 
absence  of  their  warriors,  to  massacre  all  the  women  and 
children  of  the  Pawnees!  And  in  efifect  they  carried  ofif 
the  scalps  of  ninety  victims,  and  made  prisoners  of  all 
whom  they  did  not  think  proper  to  kill.  In  their  eyes, 
revenge,  far  from  being  a  horrible  vice,  is  the  first  of  vir- 
tues, the  distinctive  mark  of  great  souls,  and  a  complete  vin- 
dication of  the  most  atrocious  cruelty.  It  would  be  time 
lost  to  attempt  to  persuade  them  that  there  can  be  neither 
merit  nor  glory  in  the  murder  of  a  disarmed  and  helpless 
foe.  There  is  but  one  exception  to  this  barbarous  code; 
it  is  when  an  enemy  voluntarily  seeks  a  refuge  in  one  of 
their  villages.  As  long  as  he  remains  in  it,  his  asylum  is 
inviolable  —  his  life  is  more  safe  than  it  would  be  in  his 
own  wigwam.  But  woe  to  him  if  he  attempt  to  fly  — 
scarcely  has  he  taken  a  single  step,  before  he  restores  to  his 
hosts  all  the  imaginary  rights  which  the  spirit  of  vengeance 
had  given  them  to  his  life! 

However  cruel  they  may  be  to  their  foes,  the  Kansas  are 
no  strangers  to  the  tenderest  sentiments  of  piety,  friend- 
ship and  compassion.  They  are  often  inconsolable  for  the 
death  of  their  relations,  and  leave  nothing  undone  to  give 
proof  of  their  sorrow.  Then  only  do  they  suffer  their  hair 
to  grow^  —  long  hair  being  a  sign  of  long  mourning.  The 
principal  chief  apologized  for  the  length  of  his  hair,  inform- 
ing us  of  w'hat  we  could  have  divined  from  the  sadness  of 
his  countenance,  that  he  had  lost  his  son.  I  wish  I  could 
represent  to  you  the  respect,  astonishment  and  compassion 
expressed  on  the  countenances  of  three  others,  when  they 
visited  our  little  chapel  at  Westport  [where  Father  Point 
had  been  stationed]  for  the  first  time.  When  we  showed 
them  an  "  Ecce  Homo  "  and  a  statue  of  our  Lady  of  the 


286  INDIANS    NATURALLY    REV'ERENT. 

seven  Dolours,  and  the  interpreter  explained  to  them  that 
that  head  crowned  with  thorns,  and  that  countenance  de- 
filed with  insults,  were  the  true  and  real  image  of  a  God 
who  had  died  for  the  love  of  us,  and  that  the  heart  they  saw 
pierced  with  seven  swords  was  the  heart  of  his  mother,  we 
beheld  an  afifecting  illustration  of  the  beautiful  thought 
of  Tertullian,  that  the  soul  of  man  is  naturally  Christian! 
On  such  occasions,  it  is  surely  not  difficult,  after  a  short 
instruction  on  true  faith  and  the  love  of  God,  to  excite 
feelings  of  pity  for  their  fellow  creatures  in  the  most 
ferocious   bosoms. 

What  were  the  Iroquois  before  their  conversions,  and 
what  have  they  not  since  become?  Why  do  the  Kansas 
and  so  many  other  tribes  on  the  confines  of  civilization 
still  retain  that  savage  ferocity  of  manners?  Why  have 
the  great  sums  expended  in  their  behalf  by  Protestant 
philanthropy  produced  no  satisfactory  results?  Why 
are  the  germs  of  civilization  so  thickly  scattered  by  their 
learned  societies  among  these  tribes,  as  it  were,  stricken 
with  sterility?  Ah!  it  is  doubtless  because  something 
more  than  human  policy  and  zeal  of  Protestantism  is  nec- 
essary to  civilize  the  savage  and  make  them  Christians. 
May  the  God  of  Mercies,  in  whom  we  alone  place  all  our 
trust,  bless  our  undertaking  and  enable  us  to  predict  that 
our  sweat,  mixed  with  the  fertilizing  dew  of  heaven,  will 
fall  auspiciously  on  this  long  barren  earth,  and  make  it 
produce  something  else  besides  briars  and  thorns! 

When  we  took  leave  of  our  hospitable  hosts,  two  of  their 
warriors,  to  one  of  whom  they  gave  the  title  of  Captain, 
escorted  us  a  short  distance  on  the  road,  which  lay  through 
a  vast  field  which  had  been  cleared  and  planted  for  them 
by  the  United  States,  but  which  had  been  ravaged  before 
the  harvest  home  —  sad  proof  of  what  we  have  stated 
above.  Our  escort  continued  with  us  until  the  day  fol- 
lowing, and  would  have  remained  with  us  still  longer,  did 
they  not  fear  the  terrible  reprisals  of  the  Pawnees  for  the 


A   BLOODLESS    WAR    PARTY.  28/ 

massacre  committed  some  months  previously.  Having 
therefore  received  our  thanks  and  a  portion  of  tobacco, 
they  resumed  the  road  to  their  village,  just  in  time  to  es- 
cape the  vengeance  of  a  party  of  Pawnees,  whom  we  met 
two  days  later,  in  quest  of  the  Kansas! 

The  Pawnees  are  divided  into  four  tribes,^^  scattered 
over  the  fertile  borders  of  the  Platte  and  upon  the  upper 
branches  of  the  Kansas  rivers.  Though  six  times  more 
numerous  than  the  Kansas,  they  have  almost  on  every  oc- 
casion been  conquered  by  the  latter,  because  they  are  far 
inferior  to  them  in  the  use  of  arms,  and  in  strength  and 
courage.  Yet  as  the  party  just  mentioned  seemed  to  have 
adopted  decisive  measures,  and  as  their  thirst  of  revenge 
had  been  stimulated  to  the  highest  degree  by  the  still  fresh 
recollection  of  what  their  mothers,  their  wives  and  chil- 
dren had  suffered,  we  had  reason  to  fear  for  the  Kansas. 
Already  we  fancied  that  we  saw  the  blood  streaming  on  all 
sides,  when,  two  days  after  we  had  passed  them,  we  saw 
them  returning.  The  two  first  who  approached  us  ex- 
cited our  attention,  the  one  by  a  human  scalp  which  hung 
suspended  from  the  neck  of  his  horse,  the  other  by  an 
American  flag,  which  he  had  wrapped  around  his  body  in 
the  form  of  a  cloak.  This  kind  of  attire  made  us  tremble 
for  the  fate  of  our  hosts;  but  the  captain  of  the  caravan 
having  asked  them  by  signs  concerning  the  result  of  their 
expedition,  they  informed  us  that  they  had  not  even  seen 
the  enemy,  and  that  they  suffered  much  from  the  crav- 
ings of  hunger.  We  gave  to  them,  and  to  about  fifteen 
others  who  followed  them,  both  victuals  and  tobacco. 
They  devoured  the  victuals,  but  did  not  smoke;  and,  con- 
trary to  the  custom  of  the  Indians,  who  generally  expect 
to  get  a  second  meal  after  the  first,  they  left  us  in  a  manner 
which  indicated  that  they  were  dissatisfied.  The  sudden- 
ly The  Grand,  Republican,  Tapage  and  Wolf  or  Loup  bands ;  names 
explained  in  various  ways,  like  most  Indian  names  that  the  white 
man  has  tried  to  account  for. 


288  SUSPICIOUS  €IGNS. 

ness  of  their  departure,  their  refusal  to  smoke  the  calumet, 
the  unexpected  return  of  their  party,  the  neighborhood  of 
their  villages,  and  their  well-known  love  of  plunder  — 
in  short,  everything  induced  us  to  fear  that  they  had  some 
design  to  make  an  attempt,  if  not  upon  our  persons,  at 
least  upon  the  horses  and  baggage;  but,  God  be  praised, 
not  one  reappeared  after  the  departure  of  the   party. 


1 


CHAPTER  VL* 

FROM  THE  PLATTE  RIVER  TO  THE  BITTER  ROOT  VALLEY.^ 

The  "  Flathead  Embassies  " —  Meeting  with  the  forerunners  of  the 
tribe  —  Their  enthusiasm  —  Frank  Ermatinger  —  Parting  from  the 
American  emigrants  —  Friendly  though  disagreeing — Devil's  Gate  on 
the  Sweetwater  —  Halt  on  Green  river  —  Mountain  trails  and  amateur 
teamsters —  More  Snake  Indians  —  Features  of  Bear  river  —  Over  the 
divide  to  Fort  Hall  —  Meeting  with  the  Flathead  escort  —  Insula  and 
Big  Face  —  Northward  to  the  Deer  Lodge  valley  —  Perils  of  western 
travel  —  River  crossings  and  Indian  alarms  —  Interview  with  the 
Bannocks. 

Fort  Hall,  Aug.  i6,  1841. 

♦IfT  was  on  the  eve  of  the  beautiful  festival  of  the  Assump- 
"  tion  that  we  met  the  vanguard  of  the  Flatheads.  We 
met  under  the  happiest  auspices,  and  our  joy  was  propor- 
tionate. The  joy  of  the  savage  is  not  openly  manifested  — 
that  of  our  dear  neophytes  was  tranquil ;  but  from  the  beam- 
ing serenity  of  their  looks,  and  the  feeling  manner  in  which 
they  pressed  our  hands,  it  was  easy  to  perceive  that,  like  the 
joy  which  has  its  source  in  virtue,  theirs  was  heartfelt  and 
profound.  What  had  they  not  done  to  obtain  a  mission 
of  "  Black-gowns  ?  "  For  twenty  years  they  had  not  ceased 
to  supplicate  the  Father  of  Mercies;  for  twenty  years,  in 
compliance  with  the  counsels  of  some  poor  Iroquois,  who  had 
established  themselves  in  their  tribe,  they  had  conformed,  as 
nearly  as  they  could,  to  our  creed  and  manners,  and  even 

1  This  chapter  consists  of  Letters  V  and  VI,  Letters  and  Sketches, 
addressed  to  the  Father  Provincial  and  dated  respectively  Fort  Hall, 
August  16,  1841,  and  Big  Face's  Camp  (Beaver  Head  river),  Septem- 
ber I,  1841 ;  paralleled  by  Letters  III  and  IV,  Second  Voyage,  Voy- 
ages aux  M.-R.,  dated  as  above  and  without  address.  The  English 
text  is  followed  in  the  main. 

2  For  original  chapter  omitted  here,  see  p.  1345. 

19 


290  THE  STORY  OF  THE  FLATHEADS. 

to  our  religious  practices.  In  what  Catholic  parish  was  the 
Sunday,  for  example,  ever  more  religiously  observed  ?  — 
During  the  ten  years  just  elapsed,  four  deputations,  each 
starting  from  the  banks  of  the  Bitter  Root,  on  which  they 
usually  assemble,  had  courageously  ventured  to  St.  Louis, 
over  a  space  of  3,000  miles, —  over  mountains  and  valleys, 
infested  by  Blackfeet  and  other  hostile  tribes. 

Of  the  first  deputation,  which  started  in  1831,  three  died 
of  diseases  produced  by  the  change  of  climate.  The  second 
embassy  reached  its  destination ;  but  owing  to  the  great  want 
of  missionaries  in  the  Diocese  of  St.  Louis,  received  nothing 
but  promises.  The  third,  which  set  out  in  1837,  consisted 
of  five  members,  all  of  whom  were  unmercifully  massacred 
by  the  Sioux.  x\ll  these  crosses,  however,  were  insufficient 
to  abate  their  zeal.  In  1839,  they  sent  two  Iroquois  depu- 
ties, one  of  whom  was  named  Peter,  and  the  other  Young 
Ignatius,  to  distinguish  him  from  another  called  Old  Igna- 
tius. These  they  earnestly  advised  to  make  still  more  press- 
ing entreaties  to  obtain  the  long-sought  blessing,  a  "  Black- 
gown,  to  conduct  them  to  heaven,"  Their  prayers  were,  at 
length,  heard,  even  beyond  their  hopes.  One  Black-gown 
was  granted,  together  with  a  promise  of  more,  if  necessary 
for  their  greater  good.  While  Peter  returned  in  haste  to  the 
tribe  to  acquaint  them  with  the  complete  success  of  their 
mission,  Ignatius  remained  at  Westport,  to  accompany  the 
promised  missionary.  I  had  the  happiness  to  be  that  mis- 
sionary; I  visited  the  nation,  and  became  acquainted,  in 
person,  with  their  wants,  their  dispositions,  and  the  neces- 
sities of  the  neighboring  tribes.  After  an  absence  of  a 
year,  I  was  now  returning  to  them,  no  longer  alone,  but  with 
two  Fathers,  three  artisan  brothers,  and  all  that  was  essen- 
tial to  the  success  of  the  expedition.  They  themselves  had 
traveled  upwards  of  800  miles  to  meet  us,  and  now  that  we 
were  together,  both  parties  were  full  of  vigor  and  hope. 
What  joy  must  not  these  good  Indians,  at  that  moment,  have 
experienced?  Being  unable,  however,  to  express  their  hap- 
piness, they  were  silent :  their  silence  surely  could  not  be 


SOME    PIOUS   SAVAGES.  29 1 

ascribed  to  a  deficiency  of  intelligence  or  a  want  of  senti- 
ment, for  the  Flatheads  are  full  of  feeling,  and  many  are 
truly  intelligent.  These,  too,  were  the  elite  of  the  nation. 
Judge  of  it  by  what  follows. 

The  chief  of  this  little  embassy,  named  Wistilpo,  por- 
trayed himself  in  the  following  address  to  his  companions, 
a  few  days  subsequently,  on  viewing  the  plan  of  the  first 
hamlet  [reduction]  :  "  My  dear  children,"  said  he,  "  I  am 
but  an  ignorant  and  wicked  man,  yet  I  thank  the  Great 
Spirit  for  the  favors  which  he  has  conferred  on  us, — (and 
entering  here  into  an  admirable  detail,  he  concluded  thus:) 
Yes,  my  dear  friends,  my  heart  has  found  content ;  notwith- 
standing my  wickedness  I  despair  not  of  the  goodness  of 
God.  Henceforth,  I  wish  to  live  only  that  I  may  pray;  I 
will  never  abandon  prayer  (religion)  ;  I  will  pray  until  the 
end  of  my  life,  and  when  I  die  I  will  commit  myself  into 
the  hands  of  the  Author  of  Hfe;  if  he  condemn  me,  I  shall 
submit  to  his  will,  for  I  have  deserved  punishment;  if  he 
save  me,  I  shall  bless  him  forever.  Once  more,  then,  my 
heart  has  found  content. —  What  shall  we  do  to  evince  the 
love  we  bear  our  Fathers?  "  Here  he  made  practical  reso- 
lutions, but  I  must  hasten  to  commemorate  the  zeal  of  each 
of  those  who  formed  the  embassy. 

Simon,  who  had  been  baptized  the  preceding  year,  was 
the  oldest  of  the  nation,  and  was  so  burdened  with  the  weight 
of  years,  that  even  when  seated,  he  needed  a  stick  for  his 
support.  Yet,  he  had  no  sooner  ascertained  that  we  were 
on  our  route  to  join  the  tribe,  than  mounting  his  horse  and 
mingling  with  the  young  warriors  who  were  prepared  to 
go  forth  to  meet  us,  he  said :  "  My  children,  I  shall  ac- 
company you;  if  I  die  on  the  way,  our  Fathers,  at  least,  will 
know  the  cause  of  my  death."  During  the  course  of  the 
journey,  he  repeatedly  exhorted  his  companions  :  '*  Courage, 
my  children,"  he  would  say,  "  remember  that  we  are  going 
to  the  presence  of  our  Fathers ;"  and  urging  his  steed  for- 
ward, whip  in  hand,  he  led  on  his  youthful  followers,  at  the 
rate  of  fifty  miles  per  day. 


292  OTHERS  DILIGENT  IN  WELL-DOING. 

Francis,  a  boy  from  six  to  seven  years  old,  grandson  of 
Simon,  was  an  orphan  from  the  very  cradle.  Having  served 
at  the  altar,  the  preceding  year,  he  would  not  be  refused 
permission  to  accompany  his  grandfather :  his  heart  told 
him  that  he  was  about  to  recover  father  and  mother,  and 
enjoy  all  the  happiness  that  loving  parents  can  bestow. 

Ignatius,  who  had  advised  the  fourth  deputation,  and  had 
been  a  member  of  it, —  who  had  succeeded  in  his  mission, 
and  introduced  the  first  Black-gown  into  the  tribe, —  who 
had  just  recently  exposed  himself  to  new  dangers,  in  order 
to  introduce  others,  had  crowned  his  zealous  exertions  by 
running  for  days  without  eating  or  drinking,  solely  that  he 
might  reach  us  the  sooner. 

Pilchimo,  his  companion  and  brother  to  one  of  the  mar- 
tyrs of  the  third  deputation,  was  a  young  warrior,  already 
reputed  brave  among  the  brave.  The  preceding  year,  his 
presence  of  mind  and  his  courage  had  saved  seventy  of  his 
brethren  in  arms  from  the  fury  of  nearly  1,900  Blackfeet 
who  had  surrounded  them. 

Francis  Xavier^  was  the  son  of  old  Ignatius,  who  had 
been  the  leader  of  the  second  and  third  deputation,  and  had 
fallen  a  victim  to  his  devotion  to  the  cause  of  religion  and 
of  his  brethren.  Francis  Xavier  had  gone  to  St.  Louis  at 
the  age  of  ten,  in  the  company  of  his  courageous  father, 
solely  that  he  might  have  the  happiness  of  receiving  bap- 
tism. He  had  finally  attached  himself  without  reserve  to 
the  service  of  the  mission,  and  supplied  our  table  with  a 
daily  mess  of  fish. 

Gabriel,  [Prudhomme]  who  was  of  mixed  blood,  but  an 
adopted  child  of  the  nation,  was  interpreter  for  the  mis- 
sionaries. Being  the  first  to  join  us  on  the  banks  of  Green 
river,  he  merited  the  title  of  precursor  of  the  Flatheads. 
His  bravery  and  zeal  had  four^  times  induced  him  to  travel 

3  Still  living  (1903)  near  Arlee,  Montana,  where  his  ranch  may 
be  seen  from  passing  trains.  He  is  commonly  called  Francois  Saxa 
(meaning  Iroquois)   or  Lamousse,  and  is  a  most  respected  citizen. 

■*  Fr.  three. 


CHRONICLES  OF  THE  YEAR.  293 

for  our  sakes,  over  a  space  of  400  miles,  which  separated  us 
from  the  main  camp. 

Such  were  they  who  now  greeted  us.  Let  them  tell  their 
own  story. 

They  had  prayed  daily  to  obtain  for  me  a  happy  journey 
and  a  speedy  return.  Their  brethren  continued  in  the  same 
good  disposition ;  almost  all,  even  children  and  old  men, 
knew  by  heart  the  prayers  which  I  had  taught  them  the 
preceding  year.  Twice  on  every  week  day,  and  three  times 
on  each  Sunday,  the  assembled  tribe  recited  prayers  in  com- 
mon. Whenever  they  moved  their  camp,  they  carried  with 
them,  as  an  ark  of  safety,  the  box  of  church  ornaments 
left  in  their  custody.  Five  or  six  children,  whom  I  had 
baptized,  had  gone  to  heaven  during  my  absence;  the  very 
morrow  of  my  departure,  a  young  warrior  whom  I  had 
baptized  the  day  previous,  died  in  consequence  of  a  wound 
received  from  the  Blackfeet  about  three  months  before. — 
Another,  who  had  accompanied  me  as  far  as  the  Fort  of  the 
Crows,  and  was  as  yet  but  a  catechumen,  died  of  sickness 
in  returning  to  the  tribe,  but  in  such  happy  dispositions  that 
his  mother  was  perfectly  consoled  for  his  loss  by  the  con- 
viction that  his  soul  was  in  heaven.  A  girl,  about  twelve 
years  of  age,  seeing  herself  on  the  point  of  dying,  had  solic- 
ited baptism  with  such  earnestness  that  she  was  baptized 
by  Peter  the  Iroquois,  and  received  the  name  of  Mary. — 
After  having  sung  a  canticle  in  a  stronger  voice  than  usual, 
she  died,  saying:  "Oh,  how  beautiful!  I  see  Mary,  my 
mother."  So  many  favors  from  heaven  were  calculated  to 
instigate  the  malice  of  hell.  The  enemies  of  salvation  had 
accordingly  attempted  to  sow  the  cockle  among  the  good 
grain,  by  suggesting  to  the  chiefs  of  the  tribe  that  my  con- 
duct would  be  like  that  of  so  many  others,  who,  "  once  gone, 
had  never  returned."  But  the  head  chief  had  invariably 
replied  :  "  You  wrong  our  Father ;  he  is  not  double-tongued, 
like  so  many  others.  He  has  said :  '  I  will  return,'  and  he 
will  return,  I  am  sure."  The  interpreter  added  that  it  was 
this  conviction  which  had  impelled  the  venerable  old  man, 


294  ERMATINGER  SHOWS  KINDNESS. 

notwithstanding  his  advanced  age,  to  place  himself  at  the 
head  of  the  detachment  bound  for  Green  river;  that  they 
had  arrived  at  the  rendezvous  on  the  ist  of  July,  which  was 
the  appointed  day;  that  they  had  remained  there  till  the 
1 6th,  and  would  have  continued  to  occupy  the  same  position, 
had  not  the  scarcity  of  provisions  obliged  them  to  depart. 
He  stated  also  that  the  whole  tribe  had  determined  to  fix 
upon  some  spot  as  a  site  for  a  permanent  village ;  that,  with 
this  view,  they  had  already  chosen  two  places  which  they  be- 
lieved to  be  suitable;  that  nothing  but  our  presence  was 
required  to  confirm  their  determination,  and  they  relied  with 
such  implicit  confidence  on  our  speedy  arrival,  that  the  head 
chief,  on  starting  from  Green  river,  had  left  there  three 
men  to  await  us,  advising  them  to  hold  that  position  until  no 
longer  tenable. 

Here,  I  have  much  to  relate  that  is  not  less  edifying  than 
curious ;  but  before  I  enter  upon  the  chapter  of  noble  ac- 
tions, I  must  conclude  what  I  had  commenced  in  my  pre- 
ceding letter.  But  I  feel  bound,  before  all,  to  pay  Mr. 
Ermatinger,^  the  captain  of  Fort  Hall,  the  tribute  of  grati- 
tude which  we  owe  him. 

Although  a  Protestant  by  birth,  this  noble  Englishman 
gave  us  a  most  friendly  reception.  Not  only  did  he  re- 
peatedly invite  us  to  his  table,  and  sell  us,  at  first  cost,  or  at 
one-third  of  its  value,  in  a  country  so  remote,  whatever  we 
required;  but  he  also  added,  as  pure  gifts,  many  articles 
which  he  believed  would  be  particularly  acceptable.  He 
did  more:  he  promised  to  recommend  us  to  the  good  will 
of  the  Governor  of  the  honorable  English  Hudson  Bay  Com- 

^  Francis  or  Frank  Ermatinger  (often  spelled  Ermantinger),  an 
Englishman  by  birth,  prominent  as  an  agent  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany; met  with  at  Fort  Okinagan,  Oregon  City,  on  Red  river  and 
elsewhere ;  connected  by  marriage  with  Dr.  John  McLoughlin ;  prob- 
ably at  Fort  Hall  at  this  time  to  compete  for  the  Flathead  and  Nez 
Perce  trade  with  the  American  companies.  Said  to  have  died  in 
Canada,  and  to  have  had  a  brother,  who  may  be  confused  with  him 
in  some  places. 


PARTING   FROM   FRIENDS.  295 

pany,  who  was  already  prepossessed  in  our  favor ;  and,  what 
is  still  more  deserving  of  praise,  he  assured  us  that  he 
would  second  our  ministry  among  the  populous  nation  of  the 
Snakes,  with  whom  he  has  frequent  intercourse.  So  much 
zeal  and  generosity  give  him  a  claim  to  our  esteem  and 
gratitude.  May  heaven  return  to  him  a  hundredfold  the 
benefits  he  has  conferred  on  us ! 

It  was  at  Fort  Hall  that  we  took  our  final  leave  of  the 
American  colony,  with  which  we  had,  till  then,  pursued  the 
same  route.  It  was  previously  to  this,  while  we  were  yet  at 
Green  river,  that  those  who  came  to  that  wild  region  merely 
for  information  or  pleasure,  had  turned  back,  with  some 
fewer  illusions  than  when  they  started  out  upon  the  journey. 
They  were  five  or  six  in  number.®  Among  them  was  a 
young  Englishman,  who  had  been  our  messmate  from  St. 
Louis.  In  taking  leave  of  us,  this  young  man,  who  was  in 
many  respects  estimable,  assured  us  that,  if  Providence 
should  ever  again  throw  us  together,  the  meeting  would 
give  him  the  highest  satisfaction,  and  that  he  would  always 
be  happy  to  do  us  all  the  service  in  his  power.  He  was  of 
a  good  English  family,  and  like  most  of  his  countrymen, 
fond  of  travel :  he  had  already  seen  the  four  quarters  of  the 
globe;  hut  qui  mnltum  peregrinantur.  *  *  *  He  cher- 
ished so  many  prejudices,  however,  against  the  Catholic  re- 
ligion, that,  despite  all  our  good  wishes,  we  were  of  no 
service  to  him  in  the  most  essential  relation.  We  recom- 
mended him  to  our  friends.  I  have  treasured  up  one  of  his 
beautiful  reflections  :  "  One  must  travel  in  the  desert  to  wit- 
ness the  watchful  care  of  Providence  over  the  wants  of 
man." 

They  who  had  started  purely  with  the  design  of  seek- 
ing their  fortune  in  California,  and  were  pursuing  their 
enterprise  with  the  constancy  which  is  characteristic  of 
Americans,  had  left  us,  but  a  few  days  before  our  arrival  at 
the  fort,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  boiling  springs  which  empty 

^Bidwell  names  three  —  Peyton,  Rodgers  and  Amos  E.  Frye — from 
the  emigrants. 


296  SOME  RELIGIOUS  EXOTICS. 

into  Bear  river.  There  now  remained  with  us  but  few 
of  the  party,  who  had  come  to  the  fort  in  order  to  revictual. 
Among  the  latter  were  the  leader  of  the  colony/  and  a  re- 
puted deacon  of  the  Methodist  Episcopalian  sect  [named 
Williams].  Both  were  of  a  peaceable  disposition,  and  mani- 
fested for  us  the  highest  regard ;  but  the  former,  like  so  many 
others,  being  very  indifferent  as  to  religious  matters,  held 
as  a  maxim,  "  that  it  was  best  to  have  no  religion,  or  else 
to  adopt  that  of  the  country  in  which  we  live ;"  and  wishing 
to  display  his  great  Bible  erudition,  he  in  proof  of  his  para- 
dox, cited  as  a  text  of  St.  Paul  the  ancient  proverb:  Si 
fueris  Romce,  Romano  z'ivite  more.  The  minister  was  of 
the  same  opinion,  but  yet  he  wished  some  religion,  it  being 
well  understood  that  his  was  the  best.  I  say  his,  because  he 
was  neither  a  Methodist,  a  Protestant  nor  a  Catholic  — 
not  even  a  Christian ;  he  maintained  that  a  Jew,  a  Turk,  or 
an  Idolater  may  be  as  agreeable  as  any  other  in  the  sight  of 
God.  For  the  proof  of  his  doctrine,  he  relied  (strange  to 
say)  on  the  authority  of  St.  Paul,  and  particularly  on  this 
text :  Uniis  Domimis  una  fides.  In  fact,  these  were  the 
very  words  with  which  he  greeted  us,  the  first  time  we  saw 
him,  and  which  formed  the  subject  of  a  long  valedictory 
discourse  that  he  delivered  in  one  of  the  meeting-houses  of 
Westport,  previous  to  his  departure  for  his  western  mission. 
By  whom  was  he  sent?  We  have  never  ascertained.  His 
zeal  frequently  induced  him  to  dispute  with  us ;  it  was  not 
difficult  to  show  him  that  his  ideas,  with  the  exception  of 
one,  were  vague  and  fluctuating.  He  acknowledged  it  him- 
self;  but  after  having  wandered  from  point  to  point,  he  al- 
ways returned  to  his  favorite  tenet,  which,  according  to  him, 
was  the  fundamental  principle  of  all  true  belief :  "  that  the 
love  of  God  is  the  first  of  duties,  and  that  to  inculcate  it  we 

"^  "A  man  named  Bartleson,  from  Jackson  county,  Missouri.  He 
was  not  the  best  man  for  the  position,  but  we  were  given  to  under- 
stand that  if  he  was  not  elected  captain  he  would  not  go ;  and  as  he 
had  seven  or  eight  men  with  him,  and  we  did  not  want  the  party 
diminished,  he  was  chosen." — Bidwell. 


AMERICANS  FAVORABLY  IMPRESSED.  297 

must  be  tolerant."  This  was  his  strongest  point  of  support, 
the  foundation  of  all  his  reasoning,  and  the  stimulus  of  his 
zeal.  The  term  Catholic,  according  to  him,  was  but  another 
word  for  "  love  and  philanthropy."  He  carried  his  absurdi- 
ties and  contradictions  so  far  that  he  excited  the  hilarity  of 
the  whole  camp.  His  ingenuous  simplicity  was  even  greater 
than  his  tolerance.  For  example,  he  once  said  to  me : 
"  Yesterday  one  of  the  members  of  my  persuasion  returned 
to  me  a  book  which  I  had  lent  him,  stating  that  it  contained 
an  exposition  of  the  Roman  creed.  When  I  asked  him  his 
opinion  of  it,  he  replied,  '  that  the  book  was  full  of  errors ;' 
yet  it  was  an  exposition  of  Methodist  principles  that  I  had 
given  him.  Witness,"  said  he,  with  emphasis,  "  the  blind- 
ing influence  of  prejudice." 

I  had  daily  conversations  with  some  one  of  the  caravan, 
and  frequently  with  several.  And  although  Americans 
are  slow  to  change  their  creed,  we  had  the  consolation  to 
relieve  our  traveling  companions  of  a  heavy  load  of  preju- 
dice against  our  holy  religion.  They  parted  from  us  ex- 
hibiting signs  of  respect  and  veneration ;  nay,  even  of  prefer- 
ence for  Catholicity.  These  controversies  so  completely 
engrossed  my  mind,  my  heart  and  my  senses,  that  I  arrived 
almost  unconsciously  on  the  banks  of  Snake  river.  Here 
a  great  danger  and  a  profitable  lesson  awaited  us ;  but  before 
speaking  of  the  adventures  of  our  journey,  I  shall  conclude 
what  remains  to  be  related  of  the  country  we  traversed. 

We  halted  with  our  narrative  upon  the  shore  of  the  Sweet- 
water. This  stream  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  tributaries 
of  the  Platte.  It  owes  its  name,  indeed,  to  the  purity  of  its 
waters.^  It  is  distinguished  from  its  fellow  tributaries  by 
the  numerous  wanderings  of  its  current  —  a  proof  that  the 
fall  of  its  bed  is  but  slight.  But  suddenly  changing  its 
course,  we  see  or  rather  hear  it  rushing  impetuously  through 
a  long  cleft  in  a  chain  of  mountains.  These  mountains, 
which  harmonize  well  with  the  torrent,  exhibit  the  most 
picturesque   scenes;    travelers    have   named   this    spot   the 

8  See  p.  214. 


298  A  SITE  FOR  A  MONASTERY. 

Devil's  Entrance  [Devil's  Gate,  Wyoming].  In  my  opin- 
ion, they  should  have  rather  called  it  Heaven's  Avenue,  for 
if  it  resembles  hell  on  account  of  the  frightful  disorder  which 
frowns  around  it,  it  is  still  a  mere  passage,  and  it  should 
rather  be  compared  to  the  way  of  heaven  on  account  of  the 
scene  to  which  it  leads.  Imagine,  in  short,  two  rows  of 
rocks,  rising  perpendicularly  to  a  wonderful  height,  and  at 
the  foot  of  these  shapeless  walls  a  winding  bed,  broken,  en- 
cumbered with  trunks  of  trees,  with  rubbish,  and  with  timber 
of  all  dimensions;  while,  in  the  midst  of  this  chaos  of  ob- 
stacles, the  roaring  waves  force  a  passage,  now  rushing 
with  fury,  then  swelling  with  majesty,  and  anon  spreading 
with  gentleness,  accordingly  as  they  find  in  their  course  a 
wider  or  more  straitened  passage.  Above  these  moving 
and  noisy  scenes,  the  eye  discerns  masses  of  shadow,  here 
relieved  by  a  glance  of  day,  there  deepening  in  their  gloom 
by  the  foliage  of  a  cedar  or  pine,  till  finally,  as  the  sighH 
travels  through  the  long  vista  of  lofty  galleries,  it  is  greeted 
by  a  distant  perspective  of  such  mild  beauty,  that  a  senti- 
ment of  placid  happiness  steals  upon  the  mind.  Such  is  the 
spectacle  we  admired  at  the  distance  of  nine  or  ten  miles 
from  Independence  Rock,  on  the  morning  of  the  6th  of 
July.  I  doubt  whether  the  solitude  of  the  Carthusian  mon- 
astery, called  La  Grande  Chartreuse,  of  which  so  many 
wonders  are  related,  can,  at  least  at  first  sight,  offer  greater 
attractions  to  him  whom  divine  grace  has  called  to  a  con- 
templative life.  As  for  me,  who  am  not  called  to  such  a 
state,  at  least  exclusively,  after  an  hour  of  raptures,  I  began 
to  understand  the  expression  of  the  Carthusian  friar,  pul- 
chrum  transeiintihus ;  and  I  hastened  to  proceed. 

Hence  we  directed  our  course  more  and  more  toward 
the  heights  of  the  Far  West,  ascending,  sometimes  clam- 
bering, until  we  reached  the  summit,  from  which  we  dis- 
covered another  world.  On  the  7th  of  July  we  were  in 
sight  of  the  immense  Oregon  Territory.  I  will  not  pre- 
sume to  add  to  the  many  pompous  descriptions  which  have 
been  given  of  the  spectacle  now  before  us.      I  shall  say 


SOUTH  PASS  TO  GREEN  RIVER.  299 

nothing  either  of  the  height,  the  number  or  the  variety  of 
those  peaks,  covered  with  eternal  snows,  which  rear  their 
heads  with  menacing  aspect  to  the  heavens.  Nor  will  I 
speak  of  the  many  streams  descending  from  them  and  chang- 
ing their  course  with  unexpected  suddenness ;  nor  of  the 
extreme  rarification  of  the  air  with  the  consequent  effect 
upon  objects  susceptible  of  contraction,  at  so  great  an  ele- 
vation. All  this  is  common ;  but  to  the  glory  of  the  Lord, 
I  must  commemorate  the  imperious  necessity  I  experienced 
of  tracing  his  holy  name  upon  a  rock,  which  towered  pre- 
eminent amid  the  grandeur  around.  May  that  ever-ador- 
able name  be  to  travelers  a  monument  of  our  gratitude,  and 
a  pledge  of  salvation ! 

Henceforth  we  descended  toward  the  Pacific  —  first  by 
following,  then  by  crossing  the  Little  and  the  Big  Sandy 
rivers.  In  the  vicinity  of  the  latter,  as  the  captain  had 
mistaken  one  road  for  another,  the  caravan  wandered  for 
three  days  at  random.  I  myself,  on  a  fine  evening,  strayed 
from  the  rest.  I  thought  myself  entirely  lost ;  how  was  I 
to  act?  I  did  what  every  sincere  believer  would  have  done 
in  the  same  circumstances,  I  prayed ;  and  then  urging  on  my 
horse,  I  traveled  several  miles,  when  it  struck  me  that  it 
would  be  prudent  to  retrace  my  steps.  I  did  so  instantly, 
and  it  was  fortunate,  for  the  caravan  was  far  behind.  I 
found  it  encamped;  still  ignorant  however  of  its  position, 
and  on  a  soil  so  arid  that  our  jaded  beasts  were  necessitated 
to  fast  for  the  night.  Days  follow,  but  resemble  not  each 
other;  two  days  subsequently,  we  were  surrounded  with 
abundance,  filled  with  joy,  all  once  more  united,  and  on  the 
banks  of  a  river  not  less  celebrated  among  the  hunters  of 
the  West  than  the  shores  of  the  Platte.  This  river  loses 
itself  not  far  below,  in  clefts  of  rocks  said  to  be  no  less  than 
200  miles  in  extent,  among  which  there  are  countless  swarms 
of  beavers,  although  the  trapper  has  never  ventured  to  hunt 
them,  on  account  of  the  extreme  peril  of  the  enterprise. 

At  a  certain  period  of  the  year,  both  trappers  and  Indians 
flock  to  this  spot,  for  the  purpose  of  bartering  all  kinds  of 


300  A  MOUNTAIN   MEETING. 

merchandise.  It  was  here,  but  eight  years  ago,  the  wagons 
that  first  undertook  to  cross  the  Rocky  Mountains  found 
the  Pillars  of  Hercules,  and  it  was  here  too  that  we  found 
the  messenger  of  the  Flatheads,  to  whom  I  have  already 
alluded.  This  river  is  the  Rio  Colorado  of  the  West  [Green 
river].  *  *  *  We  rested  two  days  upon  its  banks, 
with  the  company  of  Captain  F[raeb],^  who  had  just  re- 
turned from  California.  What  they  told  us  concerning  that 
distant  country  dissipated  many  illusions,  and  caused  some 
of  our  companions,  who'  traveled  for  amusement,  to  return. 
On  the  26th  of  July  we  seriously  thought  of  continuing 
our  journey.  With  a  train  like  ours  it  was  no  small  matter. 
The  remembrance  of  the  Bonneville  expedition  was  still 
fresh  in  the  minds  of  all;  but  our  object  gave  us  courage. 
Although  we  had  with  us  only  such  articles  as  were  strictly 
necessary,  they  could  be  transported  conveniently  only  by 
wagons.  We  put  our  confidence  in  God;  the  teamsters 
lashed  their  mules,  the  mules  did  their  duty,  and  presently 
the  river  was  crossed,  and  the  line  of  our  wagons  spread 
out  as  best  it  could,  twisting  and  straying  in  almost  every 
direction,  amid  a  labyrinth  of  mountains  and  valleys,  obliged 
to  open  a  road,  now  in  the  bottom  of  a  ravine,  now  on  the 
slope  of  a  cliff,  often  through  the  brush ;  in  one  place  the 
mules  would  have  to  be  unhitched,  in  another  teams  must 
be  doubled,  and  again  all  hands  would  be  called  upon  to 
support  the  wagons  on  the  inclined  edge  of  an  abyss  or  hold 
them  back  in  some  too  rapid  descent,  to  prevent  what  after 
all  was  not  always  prevented,  for  how  many  overturnings 
did  we  not  behold?  Our  good  Brothers  especially,  who 
had  become  teamsters  from  necessity  much  more  than  from 

9  Fraeb  (always  called  Frapp  by  the  trappers)  was  one  of  the  mem- 
bers of  the  old  Rocky  Mountain  Fur  Company  about  1830. 

"  They  came  and  camped  on  Green  river  very  soon  after  our  arrival, 
buying  the  greater  part,  if  not  all,  of  our  alcohol.  Years  after- 
ward we  heard  of  the  fate  of  that  party ;  they  were  attacked  by 
Indians  the  very  first  night  after  they  left  us  and  several  of  them 
killed,  including  the  captain  of  the  trapping  party,  whose  name  was 
Frapp.    The  whisky  was  probably  the  cause." —  Bidwell. 


BEAR  RIVER  AND  GREAT  SALT  LAKE.  3OI 

choice ;  how  often  were  they  not  astonished  at  finding  them- 
selves, one  upon  the  croup,  another  on  the  neck,  another 
among  the  hoofs,  of  their  mules,  without  any  clear  idea  of 
how  they  had  come  there,  but  thanking  the  God  of  the 
traveler  that  they  had  gotten  off  so  easily.  The  same  pro- 
tection covered  the  horsemen;  in  the  course  of  the  journey, 
Father  Mengarini  had  six  tumbles  and  Father  Point  quite 
as  many;  once  while  riding  at  full  gallop  my  horse  fell  and 
I  flew  over  his  head,  and  not  one  of  us  in  these  various 
occurrences  received  the  least  scratch. 

We  traveled  in  this  manner  for  ten  days,  to  reach  Bear 
river,  which  flows  through  a  wide  and  beautiful  valley, 
surrounded  by  lofty  mountains  and  often  intersected  by 
inaccessible  rocks.^^  We  continued  our  march  through  it 
during  eight  successive  days.  The  river  resembles  in  its 
course  the  form  of  a  horseshoe,  and  falls  into  the  Great  Salt 
lake,  which  is  about  300  miles  in  circumference,  and  has 
no  communication  with  the  sea.  On  our  way,  we  met  sev- 
eral families  of  Shoshones  or  Snake  Indians,  and  Soshocos 
or  Root-diggers.  They  speak  the  same  language,  and  are 
both  friends  to  the  whites.  The  only  difference  we  could 
observe  between  them  was  that  the  latter  were  by  far  the 
poorer.  They  formed  a  grotesque  group,  such  as  is  not  to 
be  seen  in  any  other  part  of  the  Indian  Territory.  Repre- 
sent to  yourself  a  band  of  wretched  horses,  disproportionate 
in  all  their  outlines,  loaded  with  bags  and  boxes  to  a  height 
equal  to  their  own,  and  these  surmounted  by  rational  beings 
young  and  old,  male  and  female,  in  a  variety  of  figures  and 
costumes,  to  which  the  pencil  of  a  Hogarth  or  a  Breugel 
could  scarcely  do  justice,  and  you  will  have  an  idea  of  the 

^^  In  his  itinerary  from  the  Linton  Album,  Father  De  Smet  says  that 
his  party  traveled  by  way  of  Brown's  Hole.  He  does  not  refer  to  it 
in  his  letters,  though  the  time  consumed  in  going  from  Green  river  to 
Bear  river  would  make  such  a  wide  detour  from  the  regular  route 
possible.  It  is  doubtful,  however,  if  he  went  there,  for,  if  he  had,  the 
remarkable  natural  beauty  of  this  valley  would  not  have  escaped  com- 
ment in  his  letters.  This  was  two  years  before  the  founding  of  Fort 
Bridger. 


302 


HOT  SPRING  FORMATIONS. 


scene  we  witnessed.  One  of  these  animals,  scarcely  four 
feet  high,  had  for  its  load  four  large  sacks  of  dried  meat, 
two  on  each  side,  above  which  were  tied  several  other  ob- 
jects, terminating  in  a  kind  of  platform  on  the  back  of  the 
living  beast ;  and,  on  the  summit  of  the  whole  construction, 
at  a  dangerous  elevation,  was  seated  cross-legged  on  a  bear 
skin  a  very  old  person  smoking  his  calumet.  At  his  side, 
on  another  Rozinante,  was  mounted  an  old  one-eyed  Goody, 
probably  his  wife,  seated  in  the  same  manner  on  the  top  of 
sacks  and  bags,  that  contained  all  sorts  of  roots,  dried  beans 
and  fruits,  grains  and  berries ;  in  short,  all  such  comestibles 
as  the  barren  mountains  and  the  beautiful  valleys  afford. 
These  are  carried  to  their  winter  encampment.  Sometimes 
we  have  seen  a  whole  family  on  the  same  animal,  each  ac- 
cording to  his  age,  the  children  in  front,  the  women  next, 
and  the  men  behind.  On  two  occasions  I  saw  thus  mounted 
five  persons,  of  whom  two  at  least  had  the  appearance  of 
being  as  able  to  carry  the  poor  horse  as  the  horse  was  to 
support  the  weight  of  these  two  Soshocos  gentlemen. 

Some  places  on  Bear  river  exhibit  great  natural  curiosi- 
ties. A  square  plain  of  a  few  acres  in  extent  presents  an 
even  surface  of  fuller's  earth  of  pure  whiteness,  like  that  of 
marble,  and  resembling  a  field  covered  with  dazzling  snow. 
Situated  near  this  plain  are  a  great  many  springs,  differing 
in  size  and  temperature.  Several  of  them  have  a  slight 
taste  of  soda,  and  the  temperature  of  these  is  cold.  The 
others  are  of  a  milk-warm  temperature,  and  must  be  whole- 
some ;  perhaps  they  are  not  inferior  to  the  celebrated  waters 
of  the  Spa,  or  of  the  lime  springs  in  Belgium.  I  am  in- 
clined to  believe  so,  though  I  am  not  firm  in  the  opinion; 
at  all  events,  they  are  surrounded  by  the  mountains  over 
which  our  wagons  found  it  so  difficult  to  pass.  I  therefore 
invite  neither  sick  nor  sound  to  test  them.  In  the  same 
locality  there  is  a  remarkable  spring,  which  has  made  for 
itself  a  little  mound,  of  a  mixed  stony  and  sulphurous  sub- 
stance, in  the  shape  of  an  Inverted  kettle.  It  has  only  a 
small  opening  in  the  top,  through  which  one  can  hardly  pass 


I 


ASTRAY  ON  THE  MOUNTAINS.  303 

his  hand;  from  this  hole  issue  alternately  a  jet  of  water  and 
a  gush  of  steam.  The  earth  for  some  distance  around  re- 
sounds like  an  immense  vault,  and  is  apt  to  frighten  the 
solitary  traveler  as  he  passes  along. 

It  was  here  that  we  left  Bear  river.  On  the  14th  of 
August  our  wagons,  having  proceeded  ten  hours  without 
intermission,  arrived  at  the  outlet  of  a  defile  which  seemed 
to  us  the  end  of  the  world.  On  our  right  and  left  were 
frightful  mountains;  in  our  rear  a  road  which  we  w^ere  by 
no  means  tempted  to  retrace;  in  front  a  passage  through 
which  rushed  a  torrent;  but  so  small  that  the  torrent  itself 
seemed  with  difficulty  to  force  its  way.  Our  beasts  of 
burthen  were,  for  the  first  time,  exhausted.  Murmurs  arose 
against  the  captain,  who,  however,  was  imperturbable,  and 
as  he  never  shrank  from  difficulties,  advanced  to  reconnoitre 
the  ground.  In  a  few  moments  he  made  us  a  sign  to  ap- 
proach ;  one  hour  after  we  had  surmounted  every  obstacle, 
for  we  had  traversed  the  highest  chain  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains and  were  nearly  in  sight  of  Fort  Hall.  On  the  even- 
ing previous  to  the  departure  of  the  camp  from  the  Soda 
Springs,  I  directed  my  course  toward  the  fort,  to  make  a 
few  necessary  arrangements.  The  young  Francis  Xavier  was 
my  only  companion.  We  were  soon  involved  in  a  labyrinth 
of  mountains,  and  about  midnight  we  were  on  the  summit 
of  the  highest  chain.  My  poor  guide,  being  able  to  see 
nothing  by  the  w^eak  light  of  the  moon  but  frightful  preci- 
pices, was  so  pitifully  embarrassed  that  after  veering  about 
for  a  w^hile,  like  a  weather-cock,  he  confessed  himself  lost. 
That  was  not  a  place,  nor  w^as  it  a  time,  to  w^ander  at  ran- 
dom ;  I  therefore  took  what  I  considered  the  only  alternative, 
that  of  waiting  for  the  morning  sun  to  extricate  us  from  our 
embarrassment.  Wrapped  up  in  my  blanket  and  with  my 
saddle  for  a  pillow,  I  stretched  myself  upon  the  rock,  and 
immediately  fell  into  a  sound  sleep.  Early  the  next  morn- 
ing we  descended  by  a  small  cleft  in  the  rocks,  which  the 
obscurity  of  the  night  had  concealed,  and  arrived  on  a  plain 
watered  by  the  Portneuf,  one  of  the  tributaries  of  Snake 


304  HALF   A   MILE   FROM    FORT    HALL. 

river.  We  trotted  or  galloped  over  fifty  miles  in  the  course 
of  the  day.  The  whole  way  presented  evident  remains 
of  volcanic  eruptions;  piles  and  veins  of  lava  were  visible 
in  all  directions,  and  the  rocks  bore  marks  of  having  been 
in  a  state  of  fusion.  The  river,  in  its  whole  length,  ex- 
hibits a  succession  of  beaver  ponds,  emptying  into  each  other 
by  a  narrow  opening  in  each  dike,  thus  forming  a  fall  of 
between  three  and  six  feet.  All  these  dikes  are  of  stone, 
evidently  the  work  of  the  water  (the  trappers  call  them 
the  work  of  the  beaver)  and  of  the  same  character  and 
substance  as  the  stalactites  found  in  some  caverns." 

We  arrived  late  in  the  evening,  within  half  a  mile  of  the 
Fort,  [Hall]^  but  being  unable  to  see  our  way  in  the  dark- 
ness, and  not  knowing  where  we  were,  we  encamped  for  the 
night  among  the  bushes,  near  the  margin  of  a  small  brook 
and  amid  a  cloud  of  mosquitoes. 


Beaver  Head,  Camp  of  the  Big  Face,  ist  Sept.  1841. 

Reverend  and  Dear  Father  Provincial: 

Nearly  four  months  had  elapsed  since  our  departure 
from  Westport,  when  we  met  the  main  body  of  the  na- 
tion to  which  we  had  been  sent.^^  Here  we  found  the 
principal  chiefs,  four  of  whom  had  advanced  a  day's  jour- 
ney to  welcome  us.  They  met  us  at  one  of  the  sources  of 
the  Missouri  called  Beaver  Head,  where  we  had  encamped 

11  They  do  bear  a  close  resemblance  to  beaver  dams,  but  are  built 
up  of  mineral  deposit.  They  are  easily  visible  from  the  railroad  trains 
on  the  Oregon  Short  Line. 

12  Fort  Hall  was  built  by  Nathaniel  J.  Wyeth  in  the  year  1834  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Snake  river,  a  little  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Portneuf.  Its  history  as  a  trading  post  is  almost  entirely  associated 
with  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  to  whom  Wyeth  sold  it  in  1836.  It 
was  an  exceedingly  important  point  during  the  emigration  period, 
and  later  became  a  military  post  of  considerable  note. 

13 Led  by  Little  Chief,  Insula,  afterward  baptized  Michael,  "on 
account  of  his  fidelity  and  courage." 


IN  THE  FLATHEAD  CAMP.  305 

with  some  Bannocks,  of  whom  I  will  tell  hereafter.  Hav- 
ing crossed  the  small  river  under  the  direction  of  these  new 
guides,  we  came  to  an  extensive  plain,  at  the  western  part 
of  which  the  Flatheads  lay  encamped.  This  was  on  the 
30th  of  August,  and  it  was  only  tow'ard  night  that  we 
could  distinctly  discern  the  camp.  A  number  of  runners 
who  rapidly  succeeded  each  other  informed  us  that  the  camp 
was  not  far  distant.  Contentment  and  joy  were  depicted 
on  their  countenances.  Long  before,  the  Flathead  warrior 
who  is  surnamed  the  Bravest  of  the  Brave  sent  me  his  finest 
horse  to  Fort  Hall,  having  strongly  recommended  that  no 
one  should  mount  him  before  he  w^as  presented  to  me.  Soon 
after  the  warrior  himself  appeared,  distinguished  by  his 
superior  skill  in  horsemanship,  and  by  a  large  red  scarf, 
which  he  wore  after  the  fashion  of  the  Marshals  of  France. 
He  is  the  handsomest  Indian  warrior  of  my  acquaintance. 
He  came  with  a  numerous  retinue.  We  proceeded  at  a  brisk 
trot,  and  were  now  but  two  or  three  miles  from  the  camp, 
when  at  a  distance  w^e  descried  a  w^arrior  of  lofty  stature. 
A  number  of  voices  shouted  Paul !  Paul !  and  indeed  it  was 
Paul,  the  head  chief,  [Big  Face]  who  had  just  arrived  after 
a  long  absence,  as  if  by  special  permission  of  God,  to  afford 
him  the  satisfaction  of  introducing  me  personally  to  his 
people.  After  mutual  and  very  cordial  demonstrations  of 
friendship,  the  good  old  chief  insisted  upon  returning  to 
announce  our  arrival.  In  less  than  half  an  hour  all  hearts 
were  united  and  moved  by  the  same  sentiments.  The  tribe 
had  the  appearance  of  a  flock  crowding  with  eagerness 
around  their  shepherd.  The  mothers  offered  us  their  little 
children,  and  so  moving  w^as  the  scene  that  w^e  could  scarcely 
refrain  from  tears.  This  evening  was  certainly  one  of  tTie 
happiest  of  our  lives.  We  could  truly  say  that  we  had 
reached  the  peaceful  goal.  All  previous  dangers,  toils  and 
trials  w^ere  at  an  end  and  forgotten.  The  hopeful  thought 
that  we  w^ould  soon  behold  the  happy  days  of  the  primitive 
Christians  revive  among  these  Indians,  filled  our  minds,  and 
the  main  subject  of  our  conversations  became  the  question : 
20 


306  UP  SNAKE  RIVER  VALLEY. 

"  What  shall  we  do  to  comply  with  the  requisitions  of  our 
signal  vocation  ?  " 

I  engaged  Father  Point,  who  is  skilled  in  drawing  and 
architecture,  to  trace  the  plan  of  the  missionary  stations. 
In  my  mind,  and  still  more  in  my  heart,  the  material  was 
essentially  connected  with  the  moral  and  religious  plan. 
Nothing  appeared  to  us  more  beautiful  than  the  Narrative 
of  Muratori.^*  We  had  made  it  our  Vade  Mecum.  It  is 
chiefly  to  these  subjects  that  we  shall  devote  our  attention 
for  the  future,  bidding  farewell  to  all  fine  perspectives,  ani- 
mals, trees  and  flowers,  or  favoring  them  only  with  an  occa- 
sional and  hasty  glance. 

From  Fort  Hall  we  ascended  Snake  river,  also  called 
Lewis'  Fork,  as  far  as  the  mouth  of  Henry's  Fork.  This 
is  unquestionably  the  most  barren  of  all  the  mountain 
deserts.  It  abounds  in  absinthe,  cactus,  and  all  such  plants 
and  herbs  as  are  chiefly  found  on  arid  lands.  We  had  to 
resort  to  fishing  for  the  support  of  life,  and  our  beasts  of 
burden  were  compelled  to  fast  and  pine;  for  scarcely  a 
mouthful  of  grass  could  be  found  during  the  eight  days 
which  it  took  us  to  traverse  this  wilderness.  At  a  distance 
we  beheld  the  colossal  summits  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
The  Three  Tetons  were  about  fifty  miles  to  our  right,  and 
to  the  left  we  had  the  Three  Buttes  at  a  distance  of  thirty 
miles. ^^ 

14  Muratori  is  the  historian  of  the  Jesuit  missions  in  Paraguay,  to 
which  frequent  references  are  made  throughout  the  present  work. 
The  first  South  American  missions  were  established  in  1610,  and  in 
the  150  years  in  which  the  missionaries  continued  their  labors  a 
large  part  of  the  native  population  came  under  their  influence. 
They  had  nearly  a  clear  field  during  this  time,  thanks  to  laws  which 
made  it  difficult  for  strangers  to  introduce  the  vices  of  Europe,  and 
•appear  to  have  been  building  up  an  exemplary  Christian  community. 
The  name  "  reduction  "  comes  from  their  system,  where  it  was  applied 
to  the  settled  abodes  which  they  induced  their  wandering  neophytes 
to  adopt.  The  Society  was  expelled  from  Paraguay  in  1757,  and  ten 
years  later  from  all  Spanish  America,  and  the  entire  promising 
structure  fell  to  the  ground. 

15  The  Three  Buttes  have  always  been  notable  landmarks  on  the 
Snake  River  plain. 


ACROSS  INTO  MONTANA.  307 

From  the  mouth  of  Henry's  Fork  we  steered  our  course 
toward  the  mountains  over  a  sandy  plain  furrowed  by 
deep  ravines,  and  covered  with  blocks  of  granite.  We 
spent  a  day  and  night  without  water.  On  the  following 
day  we  came  to  a  small  brook,  but  so  arid  is  this  porous 
soil  that  its  waters  are  soon  lost  in  the  sand.  On  the  third 
day  of  this  truly  fatiguing  journey  we  entered  into  a  beau- 
tiful defile,  where  the  verdure  was  both  pleasing  and  abund- 
ant, as  it  is  watered  by  a  copious  rivulet.  We  gave  to  this 
passage  the  name  of  "  the  Father's  Defile,"  and  to  the 
rivulet  that  of  St.  Francis  Xavier.  From  the  Father's 
Defile  to  the  place  of  our  destination  the  country  is  well 
watered,  for  it  abounds  with  small  lakes  and  rivulets,  and 
is  surrounded  by  mountains,  at  whose  base  are  found  num- 
berless springs.  In  no  part  of  the  world  is  the  water  more 
limpid  or  pure,  for  whatever  may  be  the  depth  of  the  rivers, 
the  bottom  is  seen  as  if  there  were  nothing  to  intercept  the 
view.  The  most  remarkable  spring  which  we  have  seen 
in  the  mountains  is  called  the  Deer  Lodge.  It  is  found 
on  the  bank  of  the  main  fork  of  the  Bitter  Root  or 
St.  ]\Iary's  river ;  to  this  fork  I  have  given  the  name  of  St. 
Ignatius. ^^  This  spring  is  situated  on  the  top  of  a  mound 
thirty  feet  high,  in  the  middle  of  a  marsh.  It  is  accessible 
on  one  side  only,  and  is  formed  of  a  stony  crust  deposited 
by  the  spring,  which  has  risen  as  the  mound  has  grown. 
The  water  bubbles  up  on  the  top,  and  escapes  through  a 
number  of  openings  at  the  base  of  the  mound,  the  circum- 
ference of  which  seems  to  be  about  sixty  feet.  The  waters 
at  the  base  are  of  different  temperatures  —  hot,  lukewarm 
arfd  cold  —  though  but  a  few  steps  distant  from  one  an- 
other. Some  indeed  are  so  hot  that  meat  may  be  boiled  in 
them.    We  actually  tried  the  experiment. ^'^ 

19  Now  called  Deer  Ledge  Creek. 

1'^  Warm   Springs,  Deer  Lodge  county,  Montana ;  now  the  site  of  a 
sanitarium  and  of  the  state  asylum  for  the  insane. 


308  FORDING  THE  SOUTH   PLATTE. 

Hell  Gate,  21st  Sept.,  1841,^® 

"  It  is  on  a  journey  through  the  desert  that  we  see 
how  attentive  Providence  is  to  the  wants  of  man."  I 
repeat  with  pleasure  this  remark  of  my  young  Protestant 
friend,  because  the  truth  of  it  appears  through  the  narra- 
tive which  I  have  commenced,  and  will  appear  still  more 
evidently  in  what  is  to  follow.  Were  I  to  speak  of  rivers, 
the  account  would  be  long  and  tedious,  for  in  five  days 
we  crossed  as  many  as  eighteen,  and  crossed  one  of  them 
five  times  in  the  space  of  a  few  hours.  I  shall  only  men- 
tion the  most  dangerous  among  them.  The  first  which  we 
found  it  very  difficult  to  cross  was  the  South  Fork  of  the 
Platte.  But  as  we  had  been  long  apprised  of  the  diffi- 
culty, we  took  our  precautions  beforehand,  and  some  of 
our  Canadians  had  explored  it  with  so  much  care  that  we 
forded  it,  not  without  great  difficulty,  but  without  any 
serious  accident.  The  greatest  distress  was  felt  by  the 
dogs  of  the  caravan.  Left  on  the  bank  when  all  had 
crossed,  nothing  but  fidelity  toward  their  masters  could 
have  induced  them  to  swim  over  a  river  but  little  less 
than  a  mile  wide,  and  having  so  rapid  a  current  that  it 
would  have  carried  away  wagons  and  carts,  had  they  not 
been  supported  on  all  sides,  while  the  mules  exerted  all 
their  strength  to  pull  them  onward.  The  poor  dogs  did 
not  attempt  to  cross  till  they  found  that  there  was  no 
choice  left  between  encountering  the  danger  and  losing 
their  masters.  The  passage  over  these  rivers  is  generally 
effected  by  means  of  a  bull-boat,  the  name  given  to  a  kind 
of  boat,  constructed  on  the  spot  with  buffalo  hides.  They 
are  indispensable  when  the  current  is  impetuous,  and  no 
ford  can  be  found.  Thanks  to  our  Canadians,  we  wanted 
them  neither  on  this  nor  any  other  occasion. 

18  Letter  VIII,  Letters  and  Sketches  and  Letter  VI,  Second  Voyage, 
Voyages  aux  Montagues-Rocheuses,  both  dated  as  above  and  addressed 
respectively  to  the  Father  Provincial  and  to  Father  De  Smet's  sister, 
Mme.  Rosalie  van  Mossevelde,  Termc-nde.  The  English  text  is  fol- 
lowed for  the  most  part. 


PASSAGE  OF  THE  NORTH  FORK.  3O9 

The  second  difficult  passage  was  over  the  North  Fork, 
which  is  less  wide,  but  deeper  and  more  rapid  than  the 
Southern.  We  had  crossed  the  latter  in  carts.  Having 
mustered  a  little  more  courage,  we  determined  to  cross  the 
North  Fork  on  horseback.  We  were  induced  to  do  so,  on 
seeing  our  hunter  drive  before  him  a  horse  on  which  his 
wife  was  mounted,  whilst  at  the  same  time  he  was  pulling 
a  colt  that  carried  a  Httle  girl  but  one  year  old.  To  hold 
back  under  such  circumstances  would  have  been  a  disgrace 
for  Indian  missionaries.  We  therefore  resolved  to  go  for- 
ward. It  is  said  that  we  were  observed  to  grow  pale,  and 
I  am  inclined  to  believe  we  did;  yet,  after  our  horses  had 
for  some  time  battled  against  the  current,  we  reached  the 
opposite  shore  in  safety,  though  our  clothes  were  dripping 
wet.  Here  we  witnessed  a  scene  which,  had  it  been  less 
serious,  might  have  excited  laughter.  The  largest  wagon 
was  carried  of¥  by  the  force  of  the  current,  in  spite  of  all 
the  efiforts,  shouts  and  cries  of  the  men,  who  did  all  they 
could  to  keep  themselves  from  being  drowned.  Another 
wagon  was  literally  turned  over.  One  of  the  mules 
showed  only  his  four  feet  on  the  surface  oi"  the  water,  and 
the  others  went  adrift  entangled  in  the  gears.  On  one 
side  appeared  the  American  captain, ^^  with  extended  arms, 
crying  for  help.  On  the  other,  a  young  German  traveler 
was  seen  diving  with  his  beast,  and  soon  after  both  appear- 
ing above  water  at  a  distance  from  each  other.  Here  a 
horse  reached  the  shore  without  a  rider;  further  on,  two 
riders  appeared  on  the  same  horse;  finally,  the  good 
Brother  Joseph  dancing  up  and  down  with  his  horse,  and 
Father  Mengarini  clinging  to  the  neck  of  his,  and  look- 
ing as  if  he  formed  an  indivisible  part  of  the  animal.  After 
all  our  difficulties,  we  found  that  only  one  of  the  mules 
was  drowned.  As  the  mule  belonged  to  a  man  who  had 
been  the  foremost  in  endeavoring  to  save  both  men  and 
horses,  the  members  of  the  caravan  agreed  to  make  him  a 

i»  Bartleson. 


3IO  ALL  SAVED   BUT   THE   MULES. 

present  of  a  horse,  as  a  reward  for  his  services.     We  of- 
fered thanks  to  God  for  our  escape  from  danger. 

I  mentioned  before  that  great  dangers  awaited  us  on 
Snake  river.  This  stream  being  much  less  deep  and  wide 
than  the  other  two,  and  having  such  Hmpid  waters  that  the 
bottom  can  everywhere  be  seen,  could  only  be  dangerous 
to  incautious  persons.  It  sufficed  to  keep  our  eyes  open, 
for  any  obstacle  could  easily  be  distinguished  and  avoided. 
But  whether  it  were  owing  to  want  of  thought  or  atten- 
tion, or  to  the  stubborn  disposition  of  the  team.  Brother 
Charles  Huet  found  himself  all  at  once  on  the  border  of  a 
deep  precipice,  too  far  advanced  to  return.  Down  went 
mules,  driver  and  vehicle,  and  so  deep  was  the  place  that 
there  scarcely  appeared  any  chance  to  save  them.  Our 
hunter,  at  the  risk  of  his  life,  threw  himself  into  the  river  to 
dive  after  the  poor  brother,  whom  he  had  to  pull  out  of  the 
carriage.  All  the  Flatheads  who  were  with  us  tried  to 
save  the  vehicle,  the  mules  and  the  baggage.  The  bag- 
gage, with  the  exception  of  a  few  articles,  was  saved;  the 
carriage  was  raised  by  the  united  efforts  of  all  the  Indians, 
and  set  afloat;  but  after  this  operation  it  was  held  by  but 
one  of  them,  who  found  that  his  strength  was  inadequate 
to  the  task,  and  crying  that  he  was  being  drowned,  let  go 
his  hold.  The  hunter  plunged  in  after  him,  and  was  him- 
self at  the  point  of  losing  his  life,  on  account  of  the  efforts 
which  the  Indian  made  to  save  his  own.  Finally,  after 
prodigies  of  valor,  exhibited  by  all  the  Flatheads,  men, 
women  and  children,  who  all  strove  to  give  us  a  proof  of 
their  attachment,  we  lost  what  we  considered  the  most 
safe,  the  team  of  the  carriage.  The  gears  had  been  cut 
to  enable  the  mules  to  reach  the  shore,  but  it  is  said  that 
these  animals  always  perish  when  once  they  have  had  their 
ears  under  water.  Thus  we  lost  our  three  finest  mules. 
This  loss  was  to  us  very  considerable,  and  would  have 
been  irreparable,  had  it  not  been  for  the  kindness  of  Cap- 
tain Ermatinger.  Whilst  the  people  of  the  caravan  were 
drying  our  baggage,  I  returned  to  the  fort,  where  the  gen- 


THE  YOUNG  AMERICAN  AND  THE  CHEYENNBS.         3II 

erous  captain  repaired  our  loss  for  a  sum  truly  inconsider- 
able, when  compared  with  what  must  be  paid  on  such  oc- 
casions to  those  who  wish  to  avail  themselves  of  the  mis- 
fortunes of  others.  We  had  escaped  the  danger,  and 
were  besides  taught  a  very  useful  lesson,  for  it  was  re- 
marked that  it  was  the  first  day  since  we  began  our 
journey,  on  which,  by  reason  of  the  bustle  occasioned  by 
our  departure  from  the  fort,  we  had  omitted  to  say  the 
prayers  of  the  itinerary. 

We  had  dangers  of  another  description  to  encounter, 
from  wiiich  we  were  also  delivered  by  the  aid  of  God's 
grace.  Once  as  we  traveled  along  the  banks  of  the  Platte, 
several  young  members  of  the  caravan  separated  from  the 
main  body,  contrary  to  the  express  orders  of  Captain  Fitz- 
patrick,^^  who,  together  with  Father  Point  and  myself,  had 
started  a  little  ahead  to  look  out  for  a  place  of  encamp- 
ment. We  succeeded  in  finding  a  proper  site,  and  we  had 
already  unsaddled  our  horses,  when  all  at  once  we  heard 
the  alarm  cry :  Indians!  Indians!  And  in  fact  a  body  of 
Indians,  appearing  much  larger  than  it  really  was,  was 
seen  in  the  distance,  first  assembling  together  and  then 
coming  full  gallop  toward  our  camp.  In  the  mean  time 
a  young  American,  unhorsed  and  unarmed,  makes  his  ap- 
pearance, complaining  of  the  loss  he  had  sustained,  and 
indignant  at  the  blows  he  had  received.  He  seizes  the 
loaded  rifle  of  one  of  his  friends,  and  rushes  forward  to 
take  signal  vengeance  on  the  offender.  The  whole  camp 
is  roused;  the  American  youth  are  determined  to  fight;  the 
colonel,  as  a  man  of  war,  orders  the  wagons  to  be  drawn 
up  in  double  file,  and  places  between  them  whatever  may 
be  exposed  to  plunder.  All  preparations  are  made  for  a 
regular  defense.  On  the  other  hand,  the  Indian  squadron, 
much  increased,  advances  and  presents  a  formidable  front. 

20  Thomas  Fitzpatrick,  "  a  prominent  member  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tain Fur  Company,  and  later  much  in  the  service  of  the  Government 
during  the  era  of  exploration.  Frequently  mentioned  in  narratives  of 
travel  of  that  period." —  American  Fur  Trade  of  the  Far  West. 


312 


WARS  AND  RUMORS  OF   WARS. 


They  manoeuvre  as  if  they  intend  to  hem  in  our  phalanx, 
but  at  sight  of  our  firm  position  and  of  the  assurance  of 
the  captain,  who  advanced  toward  them,  they  checked 
their  march,  finally  halted,  and  came  to  a  parley,  of  which 
the  result  was  that  they  should  return  to  the  American 
whatever  they  had  taken  from  him,  but  that  the  blows 
which  he  had  received  should  not  be  returned.  After  this, 
both  parties  united  in  smoking  the  calumet.  This  band 
consisted  of  eighty  Cheyenne  warriors,  armed  for  battle.^^ 
The  Cheyennes  are  looked  upon  as  the  bravest  Indians  on 
the  prairie.  They  followed  our  camp  for  two  or  three 
days.  As  the  chiefs  were  admitted  to  our  meals,  both 
parties  separated  with  mutual  satisfaction. 

On  another  occasion  we  were  in  company  with  the  van- 
guard of  the  Flatheads,  and  had  penetrated  into  an  impas- 
sable defile  between  the  mountains,  so  that  after  having 
traveled  the  whole  day,  we  were  forced  to  retrace  our 
steps.  At  night  the  rumor  was  spread  that  a  party  of 
Bannock  Indians  lay  encamped  in  the  neighborhood. 
The  Bannocks  had  this  very  year  killed  several  white  men; 
but  it  soon  appeared  that  they  were  more  frightened  than 
ourselves,  for  before  daybreak  they  had  removed  from 
the  place. 

Without  being  aware  of  it,  we  had  escaped  a  much 
greater  danger  on  the  banks  of  Green  river.  We  did  not 
know  the  particulars  of  this  danger  till  after  we  had  ar- 
rived at  Fort  Hall.     There  we  heard  that  almost  immedi- 

21 "  There  were  only  forty  of  them,  but  they  were  well  mounted  on 
horses,  and  were  evidently  a  war-party,  for  they  had  no  women  ex- 
cept one,  a  medicine  woman.  They  came  up  and  camped  within  a 
hundred  yards  of  us.  When  they  had  put  up  their  lodges  Fitzpatrick 
and  John  Gray,  the  old  hunter,  went  out  to  them  and  by  signs  were 
made  to  understand  that  the  Indians  did  not  intend  to  hurt  the  man 
or  take  his  mule  or  gun,  but  that  he  was  so  excited  when  he  saw  them 
that  they  had  to  disarm  him  to  keep  him  from  shooting  them.  They 
surrendered  the  mule  and  the  gun.  thus  showing  that  they  were 
friendly.  They  proved  to  be  Cheyenne  Indians.  Ever  afterward  that 
man  went  by  the  name  of  Cheyenne  Dawson." —  Bidwcll. 


A  BLACKFEET  ALARM.  313 

ately  after  our  separation  from  the  travelers  who  were  on 
their  way  to  Cahfornia,  and  with  whom  we  had  till  then 
lived  as  brothers,  they  divided  themselves  into  two  bands, 
and  each  band  again  subdivided  into  two  parties,  one  to 
attend  to  the  chase,  the  other  to  guard  the  horses.  The 
hunter's  camp  was  guarded  only  by  five  or  six  men  and 
some  women,  who  had  also  to  keep  watch  over  the  horses 
and  baggage  of  the  others.  A  booty  so  rich  and  so  much 
exposed  could  not  but  tempt  the  Indians  who  roamed  in 
the  neighborhood,  and  waited,  as  is  their  custom,  till  a 
seasonable  opportunity  should  ofifer  to  commence  the 
attack.  When  least  expected,  they  fell  first  upon  the 
horses  and  then  upon  the  tents,  and  though  the  guardians 
made  a  courageous  defense  and  sold  their  lives  dearly,  yet 
they  burned  and  pillaged  the  camp,  taking  away  whatever 
might  be  serviceable  to  them;  thus  giving  a  terrible  lesson 
to  such  as  expose  themselves  to  lose  all,  by  not  remaining 
united  to  withstand  the  common  enemy.^ 

But  a  few  days  after  we  had  received  this  sad  intelli- 
gence we  ourselves  were  much  alarmed.  We  appre- 
hended lest  we  should  have  to  defend  our  lives  against  a 
large  body  of  Blackfeet  Indians,  whose  warriors  continu- 
ally infest  the  country  through  which  we  were  then  trav- 
eling. It  was  reported  that  they  were  behind  the  moun- 
tain, and  soon  after  that  they  were  in  sight.  But  our 
brave  Indians,  glowing  with  the  desire  to  introduce  us  to 
their  tribe,  were  undaunted,  and  would  have  attacked 
them   had  they  been  a  hundred  times   more   numerous. 

22  The  massacre  of  these  travelers  gave  rise  to  several  vague  repcTts. 
As  we  had  started  together  it  was  supposed  by  many  that  we  had  not 
yet  separated  when  this  unfortunate  accident  took  place.  Hence  it 
was  circulated  in  the  United  States,  and  even  in  some  parts  of  Europe, 
that  the  Catholic  Missionaries  had  all  been  killed  by  the  Indians.^ 
Author's  Note. 

John  Bidwell,  a  member  of  this  party,  contributing  to  the  Century  of 
November,  1890,  says  of  the  Oregon  party,  "  we  heard  that  the  party 
arrived  safely  in  Oregon."  He  remained  with  the  California  contingent 
and  makes  no  mention  of  any  trouble  with  Indians. 


314  NOTHING  BUT  BANNOCKS. 

Pilchimo,  brandishing  his  musket  in  the  air,  started  ofif 
with  the  greatest  rapidity,  and  was  followed  by  three  or 
four  others.  They  crossed  the  mountain  and  disappeared, 
and  the  whole  camp  made  ready  to  repel  the  assailants. 
The  horses  were  hitched  and  the  men  under  arms,  when  we 
saw  our  brave  Indians  return  over  the  mountain,  followed 
by  a  dozen  others.  The  latter  were  Bannocks,  who  had 
united  rather  with  a  mind  to  fly  than  to  attack  us.  Among 
them  was  a  chief,  who  showed  the  most  favorable  dis- 
positions. I  had  a  long  conference  with  him  on  the  sub- 
ject of  religion,  and  he  promised  that  he  would  use  all  his 
endeavors  to  engage  his  men  to  adopt  religious  senti- 
ments. Both  he  and  his  retinue  left  us  the  day  after  the 
arrival  of  the  Flatheads,  who  came  to  wish  us  joy  for  the 
happy  issue  of  our  long  journey.  We  here  remarked  how 
the  power  of  reason  acts  upon  the  heart  of  the  savage. 
The  Bannock  chief  was  brother  to  an  Indian  of  the  tribe 
who  had  been  killed  by  one  of  the  Flathead  chiefs  present' 
on  this  occasion.  They  saluted  each  other  in  our  pres- 
ence and  separated  as  truly  Christian  warriors  would  have 
done,  who  show  enmity  to  each  other  only  on  the  field 
of  battle.  Yet  as  the  Flatheads  had  more  than  once  been 
basely  betrayed  by  the  Bannocks,  the  former  did  not  offer 
to  smoke  the  calumet.  I  hope  that  we  shall  have  no  diffi- 
culty to  bring  on  a  reconciliation.  The  Flatheads  will  un- 
doubtedly follow  the  advice  we  shall  give  them,  and  I  feel 
confident  that  the  Bannocks  will  be  satisfied  with  the  con- 
ditions. 


CHAPTER  YIV 

FOUNDING   OF   ST.    MARy's    MISSION. 

Arrival  en  banks  of  Bitter  Root  river  and  founding  of  St.  Mary's 
mission  —  Coeur  d'Alene  Indians  solicit  missionaries  —  Other  well-dis- 
posed tribes  —  The  problem  of  the  Blackfeet  —  Prowess  of  the  Flat- 
heads  —  Their  exemplary  piety  —  Plan  to  make  them  the  nursery  for  a 
vast  Christian  community  —  Working  details  —  Church  and  farm  build- 
ings —  Futile  opposition  of  the  devil  —  Baptisms  and  marriages  —  First 
Blackfoot  convert  —  Father  Point  goes  to  the  winter  hunt. 

Bitter  Root,  the  Place  selected  for  the  first  Reduction, 
October  i8,  1841. 

?3  FTER  a  journey  of  four  months  and  a  half  on  horse- 
■^^  back  through  the  desert,  and  in  spite  of  our  actual 
want  of  bread,  wine,  sugar,  fruit,  and  all  such  things  as  are 
called  the  conveniences  of  life,  we  find  our  strength  and 
courage  increased,  and  are  better  prepared  than  ever  to 
work  at  the  conversion  of  the  souls  that  Providence  en- 
trusts to  our  care.  Next  to  the  Author  of  all  good  things, 
we  returned  thanks  to  her  whom  the  Church  reveres  as  the 
Mother  of  her  Divine  Spouse,  since  it  has  pleased  the 
divine  goodness  to  send  us  the  greatest  consolations  on 

1  This  chapter  consists  of  Letter  IX,  Letters  and  Sketches,  dated 
St.  Mary's,  October  i8,  1841,  and  addressed  to  the  Father  Provincial, 
paralleled  by  Letter  VII,  Second  Voyage,  Voyages  aux  Montagncs- 
Rocheuses,  dated  "  Bitter  Root,  place  selected  for  First  Reduction," 
October  26th  and  addressed  to  the  Theresian  Nuns  of  Termonde ; 
Letters  X,  Letters  and  Sketches,  and  VIII,  Voyages  aux  Montagncs- 
Rocheuses,  dated  St.  Mary's,  October  26th  and  addressed  respectively 
to  the  Provincial  and  to  A  Father  of  the  Company  of  Jesus ;  Letters 
XII,  Letters  and  Sketches,  and  XI,  Voyages  aux  Montagnes- 
Rocheuses,  dated  respectively  December  30th  and  December  31st,  and 
addressed  to  A  Father ;  and  two  pages  from  Book  II,  Letters  and 
Sketches.     The  English  text  has  mainly  been  adhered  to. 

[315] 


3l6  ENTRY  INTO  THE  PROMISED  LAND. 

several  days  consecrated  to  her  honor.  On  the  feast  of 
her  glorious  Assumption  we  met  the  vanguard  of  our  dear 
neophytes.  On  the  Sunday  within  the  octave,  we,  for  the 
first  time  since  my  return,  celebrated  the  holy  mysteries 
among  them.  On  the  following  Sunday  our  good  Indians 
placed  themselves  and  their  children  under  the  Immacu- 
late Heart  of  Mary,  of  which  we  then  celebrated  the  feast. 
This  act  of  devotion  was  renewed  by  the  great  chief  in  the 
name  of  his  whole  tribe,  on  the  feast  of  her  Holy  Name. 
On  the  24th  of  September,  the  feast  of  our  Lady  of  Mercy, 
we  arrived  at  the  river  called  Bitter  Root,  on  the  banks  of 
which  we  have  chosen  the  site  for  our  principal  missionary 
station.^  On  the  first  Sunday  of  October,  feast  of  the 
Rosary,  we  took  possession  of  the  promised  land,  by  plant- 
ing a  cross  on  the  spot  which  we  had  chosen  for  our  first 
residence.  What  motives  of  encouragement  does  not  the 
gospel  of  the  present  Sunday  add  to  all  these  mentioned 
before?  Today  too  we  celebrate  the  Divine  Maternity, 
and  what  may  we  not  expect  from  the  Virgin  Mother  who 
brought  forth  her  Son  for  the  salvation  of  the  world? 
On  the  feast  of  her  Patronage  we  shall  offer  by  her  medi- 
ation to  her  Divine  Son,  twenty-five  young  Indians,  who. 
are  to  be  baptized  on  that  day.  So  many  favors  have  in- 
duced us  unanimously  to  proclaim  Mary  the  protectress 
of  our  mission,  and  give  her  name  to  our  new  residence.^ 

2  The  site  of  St.  Mary's  Mission  was  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Bitter 
Root  river,  about  twenty-eight  miles  above  its  mouth,  between  old 
Fort  Owen  and  the  modern  town  of  Stevensville. 

^Further  history  of  St.  Mary's  Mission. —  In  the  spring  of  1850, 
owing  to  increasing  indifference  and  estrangement  of  the  Flatheads, 
Father  Mengarini  recommended  the  temporary  closing  of  the  mission, 
and  Father  Joset  repaired  thither  from  St.  Paul  to  make  the  neces- 
sary arrangements.  "  The  improvements  were  leased  to  Major  John 
Owen,  with  the  proviso  that  they  should  revert  to  the  Fathers,  should 
they  return,  as  was  their  intention,  within  a  stated  time.  In  the  mean- 
while everything  was  to  be  preserved  in  the  same  condition,  good 
order  and  repair  by  the  lessee."  {Palladino.)  This  conveyance  was 
dated  November  5,  1850. —  It  was  not  practicable,  however,  to  reopen 


WtUL 


PARAGUAY  ON  A  SMALL  SCALE.  317 

These  remarks  may  appear  silly  to  such  as  attribute 
everything  to  chance  or  necessity,  but  to  such  as  believe 
in  the  wise  dispensations  of  the  Providence  of  God,  by 
which  all  things  are  governed  and  directed,  all  these  cir- 
cumstances, together  with  the  wonderful  manner  in  which 
we  have  been  called,  sent  and  led  to  this  new  mission;  and 
still  more  the  good  dispositions  manifested  by  the  Indians, 
will  appear  very  proper  motives  to  inspire  us  with  fresh 
courage,  and  with  the  hope  of  establishing  here,  on  a 
small  scale,  the  order  and  regularity  which  once  distin- 
guished our  missions  in  Paraguay.  This  hope  is  not 
founded  on  imagination,  for  whilst  I  am  writing  these 
lines,  I  hear  the  joyful  voices  of  the  carpenters,  re-echoing 
to  the  blows  on  the  smith's  anvil,  and  I  see  them  engaged 
in  raising  the  house  of  prayer.  Besides,  three  Indians, 
belonging  to  the  tribe  called  Coeur  d'Alenes,  having  been 
informed  of  our  arrival  among  the  Flatheads,  have  just 
come  to  entreat  us  to  have  pity  on  them.  "  Father," 
said  one  of  them  to  me,  "  we  are  truly  deserving  your  pity. 
We  wish  to  serve  the  Great  Spirit,  but  we  know  not  how. 
We  want  some  one  to  teach  us.  For  this  reason  we  make 
application  to  you."  Oh,  had  some  of  my  brethren,  now 
so  far  distant  from  us,  been  present  here  last  Sunday,  when 
toward  night  we  raised  the  august  sign  of  salvation,  the 
standard  of  the  cross,  in  this  small  but  zealous  tribe;  how 
their  hearts  would  have  been  moved  on  seeing  the  pious 

the  mission  for  a  long  time,  and  in  the  interval  many  changes  had 
taken  place,  among  the  Indians  and  in  their  country.  In  1862,  Father 
Giorda  succeeded  Father  Congiato  as  Superior  of  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tain Missions,  and  by  1866  he  saw  his  way  clear  to  the  re-establish- 
ment of  the  old  mission  on  the  Bitter  Root.  This  was  accomplished 
in  September  of  that  year,  and  among  the  missionaries  who  were  as- 
signed to  the  post  was  Father  Ravalli,  who  was  one  of  the  staff  who 
had  quitted  it  sixteen  years  earlier,  and  who  resided  there  thence- 
forth until  his  death  in  1884.  The  mission  was  finally  closed  in  1891, 
upon  the  removal  to  the  Jocko  reservation  of  the  remnant  of  the  Flat- 
heads,  under  the  chief  Chariot. —  Father  Ravalli's  church  still  stands, 
and  services  are  occasionally  held  by  a  visiting  priest  from  Missoula. 


3l8  NEIGHBORING  TRIBES. 

joy  of  these  children  of  the  forest!  What  sentiments  of 
faith  and  love  did  they  exhibit  on  this  occasion,  when, 
headed  by  their  chief,  they  came  to  kiss  the  foot  of  the 
cross,  and  then,  prostrate  on  their  knees,  made  a  sacred 
promise,  rather  to  suffer  death  a  thousand  times,  than  to 
forsake  the  religion  of  Jesus  Christ!  Who  knows  how 
many  of  this  chosen  band  may  be  destined  to  become 
apostles  and  martyrs  of  our  holy  religion !  Were  we  more 
numerous,  I  feel  confident  that  many  other  tribes  would 
become  members  of  the  kingdom  of  God;  perhaps  more 
than  200,000  might  be  converted  to  Christ.  The  Flat- 
heads  and  the  Cceur  d'Alenes,  it  is  true,  are  not  numerous 
tribes,  but  they  are  surrounded  by  many  others  who  evince 
the  best  dispositions. 

The  Pend  d'Oreilles  are  very  numerous,  and  Hve  at  a  dis- 
tance of  four  or  five  days'  journey  from  our  present  es- 
tablishment. The  chief  who  governed  them  last  year  and 
who  has  been  baptized  and  called  Peter,  is  a  true  apostle. 
In  my  first  visit  to  them  I  baptized  250  of  their  children. 
Many  other  tribes  have  the  same  origin,  and  though  dif- 
fering in  name,  their  languages  are  nearly  allied.  Next 
to  these  are  found  the  Spokans,  who  would  soon  follow 
the  example  of  the  neighboring  tribes ;  the  Nez  Perces, 
who  are  disgusted  at  the  conduct  of  the  Protestant  min- 
isters that  have  settled  among  them;  the  Snakes,  the 
Crows  and  the  Bannocks  whose  chief  we  have  seen.  Last 
year  I  visited  the  Cheyennes,  whom  I  twice  met  on  the 
banks  of  the  Platte;  the  numerous  nation  of  the  Sioux,  and 
the  three  allied  tribes  called  Mandans,  Aricaras  and  Min- 
netarees,  who  all  have  given  me  so  many  proofs  of  respect 
and  friendship;  the  Omahas,  with  whom  I  have  had  so 
many  conferences  on  the  subject  of  religion,  and  many 
others  who  seem  inclined  to  embrace  the  truth. 

The  Blackfeet  are  the  only  Indians  of  whose  salvation 
we  would  have  reason  to  despair,  if  the  ways  of  God  were 
the  same  as  those  of  man,  for  they  are  murderers,  thieves, 
traitors,  and  all  that  is  wicked.     But  were  not  the  Chiqui- 


FINE  QUALITIES  OF  THE  FLATHEADS.  3I9 

tos.  the  Chiriqiians,  the  Hurons,  and  the  Iroquois  equally 
wicked  before  their  conversion,  which  required  much  time 
and  great  help  from  above?  And  is  it  not  to  the  last,  that, 
under  God.  the  Flatheads  owe  their  desire  of  becoming 
members  of  his  Church,  and  the  first  germs  of  the  copious 
fruit  that  has  been  produced  among  them?  What  is  more, 
the  Blackfeet  are  not  hostile  to  Black-gowns.  We  have 
been  assured  by  other  Indians  that  we  would  have  nothing 
to  fear,  if  we  presented  ourselves  amongst  them  as  minis- 
ters of  religion.  When  last  year  I  fell  into  the  hands  of 
one  of  their  divisions,  and  it  was  ascertained  that  I  was  an 
interpreter  of  the  Great  Spirit,  they  carried  me  in  triumph 
on  a  buffalo  robe  to  their  village,  and  invited  me  to  a  ban- 
quet, at  which  all  the  great  men  of  the  tribe  assisted.  It 
was  on  this  occasion,  that,  whilst  I  said  grace,  I  was  aston- 
ished to  see  that  they  struck  the  earth  with  one  hand  and 
raised  the  other  toward  heaven,  to  signify  that  the  earth 
produces  nothing  but  evil,  whilst  all  that  is  good  comes 
from  above.  From  all  this  you  will  easily  conclude  that 
the  harvest  is  great,  whilst  the  laborers  are  few. 

It  is  the  opinion  of  the  missionaries  who  accompany  me, 
and  of  the  travelers  I  have  seen  in  the  Far  West,  in  short, 
of  all  those  who  have  become  acquainted  with  the  Flat- 
heads,  that  they  are  characterized  by  the  greatest  sim- 
plicity, docility  and  uprightness.  Yet,  to  the  simplicity 
of  children  is  joined  the  courage  of  heroes.  They  never 
begin  the  attack,  but  woe  to  such  as  provoke  them  or  treat 
them  unjustly.  A  handful  of  their  warriors  will  not  shrink 
from  an  enemy  twenty  times  more  numerous  than  they; 
they  will  stand  and  repel  the  assault,  and  at  last  put  them 
to  flight,  and  make  them  repent  their  rashness.  Not  long 
before  my  first  arrival  among  them,  seventy  men  of  the 
tribe,  finding  themselves  forced  to  come  to  an  engagement 
with  a  thousand  Blackfeet  warriors,  determined  to  sustain 
the  attack,  and  rather  to  die  than  retreat.  Before  the  en- 
gagement they  prostrated  themselves  and  addressed  such 
prayers  as  they  had  learned  to  the  Great  Spirit.    They  rose 


i 


320  FLATHEAD  PROWESS  IN   BATTLE. 

full  of  courage,  sustained  the  first  shock,  and  soon  ren- 
dered the  victory  doubtful.  The  fight,  with  several  in- 
terruptions, was  continued  five  successive  days,  till  at  last 
the  Blackfeet,  astounded  at  the  boldness  of  their  antag- 
onists, were  panic-struck,  and  retreated  from  the  scene 
of  action,  leaving  many  killed  and  wounded  on  the  field 
of  battle,  whilst  not  one  warrior  of  the  Flatheads  was 
killed.  But  one  died  of  the  wounds  he  had  received,  and 
his  death  happened  several  months  after  the  engagement, 
on  the  day  succeeding  his  baptism  —  (though  the  point  of 
an  arrow  had  pierced  his  skull).  It  was  on  the  same  oc- 
casion that  Pilchimo,  whom  I  have  already  mentioned, 
gave  remarkable  proofs  of  valor  and  attachment  to  his 
fellow  warriors.  All  the  horses  were  on  the  point  of  fall- 
ing into  the  enemy's  hand.  Pilchimo  was  on  foot.  Not 
far  off  was  a  squaw  on  horseback;  to  see  the  danger,  to 
take  the  squaw  from  her  horse  and  mount  it  himself,  to 
gallop  to  the  other  horses,  and  bring  them  together,  and 
drive  them  into  the  camp,  was  the  affair  of  a  few  minutes. 
Another  warrior,  named  Sechelmeld,  saw  a  Blackfoot 
separated  from  his  company,  and  armed  with  a  musket. 
The  Blackfoot,  taking  the  warrior  for  one  of  his  own  tribe, 
asked  the  Flathead  to  let  him  mount  behind  him.  The 
latter,  wishing  to  make  himself  master  of  the  musket, 
agreed  to  the  proposal.  They  advance  on  the  plain,  till 
Sechelmed  seeing  that  the  place  favored  his  design,  seizes 
his  fellow  rider's  weapon,  exclaiming:  "  Blackfoot!  I  am  a 
Flathead,  let  go  your  musket."  He  wrests  it  from  his 
hands,  dispatches  him,  remounts  the  horse,  and  gallops  off 
in  pursuit  of  the  enemy."* 

The  following  feat  equally  deserves  to  be  recorded:  A 
Blackfoot  warrior  was  taken  and  wounded  whilst  in  the 
act  of  stealing  a  horse.  The  night  was  dark  and  the  wound 
had  rendered  him  furious.  He  held  his  loaded  gun,  and 
threatened  death  to  any  one  that  should  approach  him. 

*This  Flathead  was  Ambrose.  A  drawing  by  himself,  representing 
this  feat,  is  among  Father  De  Smet's  papers. 


VALOR  AND  PIETY  OF  PETER  CHALAX.  32 1 

Peter,  one  of  the  chiefs  already  mentioned,  though  diminu- 
tive in  size,  and  far  advanced  in  years,  felt  his  courage  re- 
vived; he  runs  up  to  the  enemy,  and  with  one  blow  fells 
him  to  the  ground.  This  done  he  throws  himself  on  his 
knees,  and  raising  his  eyes  toward  heaven,  he  is  reported 
to  have  said:  "  Great  Spirit!  thou  knowest  that  I  did  not 
kill  this  Blackfoot  from  a  desire  of  revenge,  but  because  I 
was  forced  to  it;  be  merciful  to  him  in  the  other  world.  I 
forgive  him  from  the  bottom  of  my  heart  all  the  evils 
which  he  has  wished  to  inflict  upon  us,  and  to  prove  the 
sincerity  of  my  words  I  will  cover  him  with  my  garment." 
This  Peter  was  baptized  last  year,  and  became  the  apostle 
of  his  tribe.  Even  before  baptism,  his  simplicity  and  sin- 
cerity prompted  him  to  give  this  testimony  of  himself: 
"  If  ever  I  have  done  evil  it  was  through  ignorance,  for  I 
have  always  done  what  I  considered  good.""  It  would  be 
tedious  to  give  an  account  of  his  zealous  endeavors.  Every 
morning,  at  an  early  hour,  he  rides  through  the  whole 
village,  stops  at  every  hut,  speaks  a  few  words  of  en- 
couragement and  reproof,  as  circumstances  require,  and 
exhorts  all  to  be  faithful  in  the  performance  of  their  re- 
ligious and  social  duties. 

I  have  spoken  of  the  simplicity  and  the  courage  of  the 
Flatheads;  I  shall  make  some  other  remarks  concerning 
their  character.  They  little  resemble  the  majority  of  the 
Indians,  who  are,  generally  speaking,  uncouth,  importu- 
nate, improvident,  insolent,  stubborn  and  cruel. —  The 
Flatheads  are  disinterested,  generous,  devoted  to  their 
brethren  and  friends;  irreproachable,  and  even  exemplary, 
as  regards  probity  and  morality.  Among  them,  dissen- 
sions, quarrels,  injuries  and  enmities  are  unknown.  Dur- 
ing my  stay  in  the  tribe  last  year,  I  have  never  remarked 
anything  that  was  contrary  to  modesty  and  decorum  in 
the  manners  and  conversation  of  the  men  and  women.  It 
is  true  that  the  children,  whilst  very  young,  are  entirely 
without  covering,  but  this  is  a  general  custom  among  the 
Indians,  and  seems  to  have  no  bad  efifect  upon  them;  we 
21 


322  MODESTY    OF    CHRISTIAN    HEROES. 

are  determined,  however,  to  abolish  this  custom  as  soon  as 
we  shall  be  able  to  do  it. 

With  respect  to  religion,  the  Flatheads  are  distinguished 
by  the  firmness  of  their  faith,  and  the  ardor  of  their  zeal. 
Not  a  vestige  of  their  former  superstitions  can  be  dis- 
covered. Their  confidence  in  us  is  unlimited.  They  be- 
lieve without  any  dif^culty  the  most  profound  mysteries 
of  our  holy  religion,  as  soon  as  they  are  proposed  to  them, 
and  they  do  not  even  suspect  that  we  might  be  deceived, 
or  even  could  wish  to  deceive  them.  I  have  already  men- 
tioned what  exertions  they  have  made  to  obtain  Black- 
robes  for  their  tribe;  the  journeys,  undertakings,  the  dan- 
gers incurred,  the  misfortunes  suffered  to  attain  their 
object.  Their  conduct  during  my  absence  from  them  has 
been  truly  regular  and  edifying.  They  attend  divine  ser- 
vice with  the  greatest  punctuality,  and  pay  the  most 
serious  attention  to  the  explanation  of  the  Catechism. 
What  modesty  and  fervent  piety  do  they  not  exhibit  in 
their  prayers,  and  with  what  humble  simplicity  they  speak 
of  their  former  bhndness,  and  of  such  things  as  tend  to  re- 
flect honor  upon  their  present  conduct.  On  this  last  sub- 
ject their  simplicity  is  truly  admirable:  "Father,"  some 
will  say,  with  downcast  eyes,  "  what  I  tell  you  now  I  have 
never  mentioned  to  any  one,  nor  shall  I  ever  mention  it  to 
others;  and  if  I  speak  of  it  to  you,  it  is  because  you  wish 
and  have  a  right  to  know  it.*' 

The  chiefs,  who  might  be  more  properly  called  the 
fathers  of  the  tribe,  having  only  to  express  their  will,  and 
are  obeyed,  are  always  listened  to,  and  are  not  less  remark- 
able for  their  docility  in  our  regard  than  for  the  ascendancy 
they  possess  over  their  people.  The  most  influential 
among  them,  surnamed  "  The  Little  Chief,"  from  the 
smallness  of  his  stature,  whether  considered  as  a  Christian 
or  a  warrior,  might  stand  a  comparison  with  the  most  re- 
nowned character  of  ancient  chivalry.  On  one  occasion, 
he  sustained  the  assaults  of  a  whole  village,  which,  con- 
trary to  all  justice,  attacked  his  people.     On  another  oc- 


LITTLE    CHIEF    MICHAEL   INSULA,  323 

casion,  when  the  Bannocks  had  been  guilty  of  the  blackest 
treason,  he  marched  against  them  with  a  party  of  warriors 
not  one-tenth  the  number  of  their  aggressors.  But,  under 
such  a  leader,  his  little  band  believed  themselves  invincible, 
and  invoking  the  protection  of  heaven,  rushed  upon  the 
enemy,  and  took  signal  vengeance  of  the  traitors,  killing 
nine  of  their  number.  More  would  have  been  killed,  had 
not  the  voice  of  Little  Chief  arrested  them  in  the  very 
heat  of  the  pursuit,  announcing  that  it  was  the  Sabbath, 
and  the  hour  of  prayer.  Upon  this  signal,  they  gave  over 
the  pursuit,  and  returned  to  their  camp.  Arrived  there, 
they  immediately,  without  thinking  of  dressing  their 
wounds,  fell  upon  their  knees  in  the  dust,  to  render  to  the 
Lord  of  Hosts  the  honor  of  the  victory.  Little  Chief  had 
received  a  ball  through  the  right  hand,  which  had  entirely 
deprived  him  of  its  use;  but  seeing  two  of  his  comrades 
more  severely  wounded  than  himself,  he  with  his  other 
hand  rendered  them  every  succor  in  his  power,  remaining 
the  whole  night  in  attendance  upon  them.  On  several 
other  occasions,  he  acted  with  equal  courage,  prudence 
and  humanity,  so  that  his  reputation  became  widely 
spread. 

The  Nez  Perces,  a  nation  far  more  numerous  than  the 
Flatheads,  came  to  offer  him  the  dignity  of  being  their 
head  chief.  He  might  have  accepted  it  without  detriment 
to  the  rights  of  any  one.  as  every  Indian  is  free  to  leave  his 
chief,  and  place  himself  under  any  other  head  he  may 
think  proper,  and,  of  course,  to  accept  any  higher  grade 
that  may  be  offered  to  him.  But  Little  Chief,  content  with 
the  post  assigned  him  by  Providence,  refused  the  offer, 
however  honorable  to  him,  with  this  simple  remark,  "  By 
the  will  of  the  Great  Master  of  Life  I  was  born  among  the 
Flatheads,  and  if  such  be  his  will,  among  the  Flatheads  I 
am  determined  to  die;" — a  patriotic  feeling,  highly  honor- 
able to  him.  As  a  warrior,  still  more  honorable  to  his 
character  are  the  mildness  and  humility  manifested  by  him. 
He  said  to  me  once:     "Till  we  came  to  know  the  true 


324 


Simeon's  nocturnal  program. 


God,  alas,  how  blinded  were  we!  We  prayed,  it  is  true  — 
but  to  whom  did  we  address  our  prayers?  In  truth,  I 
know  not  how  the  Great  Spirit  could  have  borne  with  us 
so  long."  At  present  his  zeal  is  most  exemplary;  not  con- 
tent with  being  the  foremost  in  all  the  offices  at  chapel,  he 
is  always  the  first  and  last  at  the  family  prayers,  and  even 
before  break  of  day  he  is  heard  singing  the  praises  of  his 
Maker.  His  characteristic  trait  is  mildness;  and  yet  he  can 
assume  due  firmness,  not  to  say  severity  of  manner,  when 
he  sees  it  necessary  to  exercise  more  rigorous  discipline. 
Some  days  before  our  arrival,  one  of  the  young  women 
had  absented  herself  from  prayer,  without  a  sufficient 
reason.  He  sent  for  her,  and  after  reading  her  a  lecture 
before  all  the  household,  enforced  his  motives  for  greater 
attention  in  future,  by  a  smart  application  of  the  cane. 
And  how  did  the  young  offender  receive  the  correction? 
With  the  most  humble  and  praiseworthy  submission. 

The  Flatheads  are  fond  of  praying.  After  the  regular 
evening  prayer,  they  will  assemble  in  their  tents  to  pray  or 
sing  canticles.  These  pious  exercises  will  frequently  be 
prolonged  till  a  late  hour;  and  if  any  wake  during  the 
night,  they  begin  to  pray.  Before  making  his  prayer,  the 
good  old  Simeon  gets  up  and  rakes  out  the  live  coals  upon 
his  hearth,  and  when  his  prayer  is  done,  which  is  always 
preceded  and  followed  by  the  sign  of  the  cross,  he  smokes 
his  calumet  and  then  turns  in  again.  This  he  will  do  three 
or  four  times  during  the  night.  There  was  a  time,  also, 
when  these  more  watchful  spirits  of  the  household,  not 
content  with  praying  themselves,  would  awaken  the  sleep- 
ers, anxious  to  make  them  partakers  of  the  good  work. 
These  pious  excesses  had  sprung  from  a  little  piece  of  ad- 
vice I  had  given  them  on  my  first  visit,  that  "  on  waking 
at  night  it  was  commendable  to  raise  the  heart  to  God." 
It  has  since  been  explained  to  them  how  they  are  to  un- 
derstand the  advice.  This  night,  between  the  25th  and 
26th,  the  prayers  and  canticles  have  not  ceased.  Yester- 
day, a  young  woman  having  died  who  had  received  bap- 


OBSERVANCE  OF  SUNDAY.  325 

tism  four  days  previously,  we  recommended  them  to  pray 
for  the  repose  of  her  soul.  Her  remains  were  deposited  at 
the  foot  of  the  Calvary,  erected  in  the  midst  of  the  camp. 
On  the  cross  upon  her  grave  might  confidently  be  in- 
scribed the  words  :  In  spcm  Rcsurrectionis  —  In  hope  of  a 
glorious  Resurrection.  We  shall  shortly  have  to  celebrate 
the  commemoration  of  the  faithful  departed;  this  will  af- 
ford us  an  opportunity  of  establishing  the  very  Christian 
and  standing  custom  of  praying  for  the  dead  in  their  place 
of  interment. 

On  Sundays,  the  exercises  of  devotion  are  longer  and 
more  numerous,  and  yet  they  are  never  fatigued  with  the 
pious  duty.  They  feel  that  the  happiness  of  the  little  and 
of  the  humble  is  to  speak  with  their  Heavenly  Father,  and 
that  no  house  presents  so  many  attractions  as  the  house  of 
the  Lord.  Indeed,  so  religiously  is  the  Sunday  observed 
here,  that  on  this  day  of  rest,  even  before  our  coming,  the 
most  timorous  deer  might  wander  unmolested  in  the  midst 
of  the  tribe,  even  though  they  were  reduced  by  want  of 
provisions  to  the  most  rigorous  fast.  For,  in  the  eyes  of 
this  people,  to  use  the  bow  and  arrow  on  this  day,  would 
not  have  appeared  less  culpable  than  did  the  gathering  of 
wood  to  the  scrupulous  fidelity  of  the  people  of  God. 
Since  they  have  conceived  a  juster  idea  of  the  law  of  grace, 
they  are  less  slaves  to  "the  letter  that  killeth;"  but  still 
desirous  to  be  faithful  to  the  very  letter,  they  are  studious 
to  do  their  best,  and  when  any  doubt  arises,  they  hasten  to 
be  enlightened  thereon,  soliciting  in  a  spirit  of  faith  and 
humility  that  permission  of  which  they  may  think  them- 
selves to  stand  in  need. 

The  principal  chief  is  named  "  Big  Face,"  on  account  of 
the  somewhat  elongated  form  of  his  visage;  he  might  more 
nobly  and  more  appropriately  be  named  the  Nestor  of  the 
Desert,  for  as  well  in  years  as  in  stature  and  sagacity  he 
has  all  the  essentials  of  greatness.  From  his  earliest  in- 
fancy, nay,  even  before  he  could  know  his  parents,  he  had 
been  the  child  of  distress.    Being  left  a  helpless  orphan,  by 


326  THE   PRAYER   OF   PAUL   BIG   FACE. 

the  death  of  his  mother,  with  no  one  to  protect  him,  it  was 
proposed  to  bury  him  with  her  in  the  same  grave  —  a  cir- 
cumstance that  may  serve  to  give  some  idea  of  the  igno- 
rance and  brutality  of  his  tribe.  But  the  Almighty,  who 
had  other  purposes  in  his  regard,  moved  the  heart  of  a 
young  woman  to  compassionate  his  helpless  condition, 
and  offer  to  become  a  mother  to  him.  Her  humanity  was 
abundantly  recompensed  by  seeing  her  adopted  son  distin- 
guished above  all  his  fellows  by  intelligence,  gentleness, 
and  every  good  disposition.  He  was  grateful,  docile, 
charitable,  and  naturally  so  disposed  to  piety,  that,  from 
a  want  of  knowing  the  true  God,  he  more  than  once  was 
led  to  place  his  trust  in  that  which  was  but  the  work  of  his 
own  hands.  Being  one  day  lost  in  a  forest,  and  reduced 
to  extremity,  he  began  to  embrace  the  trunk  of  a  fallen 
tree,  and  to  conjure  it  to  have  pity  upon  him.  Nor  is  it 
above  two  months  since  a  serious  loss  befel  him;  indeed 
one  of  the  most  serious  that  could  happen  to  an  Indian  — 
the  loss  of  three  calumets  at  the  same  time.  He  spent  no 
time  in  retracing  his  steps,  and  to  interest  heaven  in  his 
favor,  he  put  up  the  following  prayer  :  "  O  Great  Spirit,  you 
who  see  all  things  and  undo  all  things,  grant,  I  entreat  you, 
that  I  may  find  what  I  am  looking  for;  and  yet  let  thy 
will  be  done."  This  prayer  should  have  been  addressed 
to  God.  He  did  not  find  the  calumets,  but  in  their  place 
he  received  what  was  of  more  incomparable  value  —  sim- 
plicity, piety,  wisdom,  patience,  courage  and  cool  intrepid- 
ity in  the  hour  of  danger.  More  favored  in  one  respect 
than  Moses,  this  new  guide  of  another  people  to  God,  after 
a  longer  sojourn  in  the  wilderness,  was  at  length  successful 
in  introducing  his  children  into  the  land  of  promise.  He 
was  the  first  of  his  tribe  who  received  baptism,  and  took 
the  name  of  Paul,  and  like  his  patron,  the  great  Apostle, 
he  has  labored  assiduously  to  gain  over  his  numerous  chil- 
dren to  the  friendship  and  love  of  his  Lord  and  Master. 


THE  FLATHEADS  TO  BE  A  NUCLEUS.  327 

St.  Mary's,  Rocky  Mountains,  26th  Oct.,  1841. 

Reverend  and  Dear  Father  Provincial: 

This  last  letter  will  contain  the  practical  conclusions  of 
what  has  been  stated  in  the  preceding.  I  am  confident 
that  these  conclusions  will  be  very  agreeable  and  consoling 
to  all  persons  who  feel  interested  in  the  progress  of  our 
holy  religion,  and  who  very  prudently  refuse  to  form  a 
decided  opinion,  unless  they  can  found  it  on  well  attested 
facts. 

From  what  has  hitherto  been  said,  we  may  draw  this 
conclusion,  that  the  nation  of  the  Flatheads  appear  to  be 
a  chosen  people — "the  elect  of  God;"  that  it  would  be 
easy  to  make  this  tribe  a  model  for  other  tribes, —  the  seed 
of  200,000  Christians,  who  would  be  as  fervent  as  were 
the  converted  Indians  of  Paraguay;  and  that  the  conver- 
sion of  the  former  would  be  effected  with  more  facility 
than  that  of  the  latter.  The  Flatheads  have  no  communi- 
cation with  corrupt  tribes;  they  hold  all  sects  in  aversion; 
they  have  a  horror  of  idolatry;  they  cherish  much  sym- 
pathy for  the  whites,  but  chiefly  for  the  Black-robes 
(Catholic  priests),  a  name,  which,  in  consequence  of  the 
prepossessions  and  favorable  impressions,  which  they  have 
received  from  the  Iroquois,  is  synonymous  with  goodness, 
learning,  and  catholicity.  Their  position  is  central;  their 
territory  sufficiently  extensive  to  contain  several  missions; 
the  land  is  fertile,  and  the  country  surrounded  by  high 
mountains.  They  are  independent  of  all  authority  except 
that  of  God,  and  those  who  represent  him.  They  have  no 
tribute  to  pay  but  that  of  prayer;  they  have  already  ac- 
quired practical  experience  of  the  advantages  of  a  civilized 
over  a  barbarous  state  of  life;  and  in  fine,  they  are  fully 
convinced  and  firmly  persuaded  that  without  the  religion 
that  is  announced  to  them,  they  can  be  happy  neither  in 
this  world  nor  in  the  next. 

From  all  these  considerations,  we  may  again  draw  the 
conclusions,  that  the  best  end  which  we  can  propose  to  our- 


328  RULES  FOR  THE  CONVERTS. 

selves  is  that  which  our  Fathers  of  Paraguay  had  in  view 
when  they  commenced  their  missionary  labors;  and  that 
the  means  to  attain  this  end  should  be  the  same,  chiefly 
because  these  means  have  been  approved  by  the  most  re- 
spectable authorities,  crowned  with  perfect  success,  and 
admired  even  by  the  enemies  of  our  religion. 

The  principle  being  admitted,  it  only  remains  to  form 
a  correct  idea  of  the  method  employed  by  our  Fathers  in 
Paraguay  to  improve  the  minds  and  hearts  of  their  neo- 
phytes, and  to  bring  them  to  that  degree  of  perfection  of 
which  they  conceived  them  susceptible.  After  having 
seriously  reflected  on  what  Muratori  relates  of  the  establish- 
ments in  Paraguay,  we  have  concluded  that  the  following 
points  should  be  laid  down,  as  rules  to  direct  the  conduct 
of  our  converts. 

1.  With  regard  to  God. —  Simple,  firm,  and  lively  faith 
with  respect  to  all  the  truths  of  religion,  and  chiefly  such 
as  are  to  be  believed  as  theologians  express  it,  necessitate 
medii  et  necessitate  prccccpti.  Profound  respect  for  the  only 
true  religion;  perfect  submission  to  the  Church  of  God,  in 
all  that  regards  faith  and  morality,  discipline,  etc.  Tender 
and  solid  piety  toward  the  Blessed  Virgin  and  the  saints. 
Desire  of  the  conversion  of  others.  Courage  and  fortitude 
of  the  martyrs. 

2.  With  regard  to  our  neighbor. —  Respect  for  those  in 
authority,  for  parents,  the  aged,  etc.  Justice,  charity,  and 
generosity  toward  all. 

3.  With  regard  to  one's  self. —  Humility,  modesty,  meek- 
ness, discretion,  temperance,  irreproachable  behavior,  in- 
dustry or  love  of  labor,  etc. 

We  shall  strenuously  recommend  the  desire  of  the  con- 
version of  others,  because  Providence  seems  to  have  great 
designs  with  respect  to  our  small  tribe.  In  one  of  our  in- 
structions given  in  a  little  chapel,  constructed  of  boughs, 
not  less  than  twenty-four  nations  were  represented,  in- 
cluding ourselves.  Next,  the  courage  and  fortitude  of  the 
martyrs,  because  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Blackfeet  there 


WHAT  THEY  TAUGHT  THE  INDIANS.  329 

is  continual  danger  of  losing  either  the  life  of  the  soul,  or 
that  of  the  body.  Also,  industry  or  the  love  of  labor,  be- 
cause idleness  is  the  predominant  vice  of  Indians ;  and  even 
the  Flatheads,  if  they  are  not  addicted  to  idleness,  at  least 
manifest  a  striking  inaptitude  to  manual  labor,  and  it  will 
be  absolutely  necessary  to  conquer  this.  To  ensure  success, 
much  time  and  patience  will  be  required.  Finally  and  chiefly, 
profound  respect  for  the  true  religion,  to  counteract  the  ma- 
noeuvres of  various  sectaries,  who  desirous  as  it  would  seem, 
to  wipe  away  the  reproach  formerly  made  by  Muratori,  and 
in  our  days  by  the  celebrated  Doctor  Wiseman,  use  all 
their  efforts  to  make  proselytes,  and  to  appear  disinterested., 
and  even  zealous  in  the  propagation  of  their  errors. 

4.  JJ^ith  regard  to  the  means. —  Flight  from  all  contami- 
nating influence;  not  only  from  the  corruption  of  the  age, 
but  from  what  the  gospel  calls  the  world.  Caution  against 
all  immediate  intercourse  with  the  whites,  even  with  the 
workmen,  whom  necessity  compels  us  to  employ,  for  though 
these  are  not  wicked,  still  they  are  far  from  possessing  the 
qualities  necessary  to  serve  as  models  to  men  who  are  humble 
enough  to  think  they  are  more  or  less  perfect,  in  proportion 
as  their  conduct  corresponds  with  that  of  the  whites.  We 
shall  confine  them  to  the  knowledge  of  their  own  language, 
erect  schools  among  them,  and  teach  them  reading,  writ- 
ing, arithmetic  and  singing.  Should  any  exception  be  made 
to  this  general  rule,  it  will  be  in  favor  of  a  small  number, 
and  only  when  their  good  dispositions  will  induce  us  to 
hope  that  we  may  employ  them  as  auxiliaries  in  religion. 
A  more  extensive  course  of  instruction  would  undoubtedly 
prove  prejudicial  to  these  good  Indians,  whose  simplicity  is 
such  that  they  might  easily  be  imposed  upon,  if  they  were 
to  come  in  contact  with  error,  whilst  it  is  the  source  of  all 
truth  and  virtue  when  enlightened  by  the  flambeau  of  faith. 
La  Harpe  himself,  speaking  of  the  apostolic  laborers  of  our 
Society,  says  that  the  perfection  of  our  ministry  consists  in 
illumining  by  faith  the  ignorance  of  the  savage. 

To  facilitate  the  attainment  of  the  end  in  view,  we  have 


330  TRUE  SPIRIT  OF  THE  SOCIETY. 

chosen  the  place  of  the  first  missionary  station,  formed  the 
plan  of  the  village,  made  a  division  of  the  lands,  determined 
the  form  of  the  various  buildings,  etc.  The  buildings 
deemed  most  necessary  and  useful  at  present  are  a  church, 
schools,  workhouses,  storehouses,  etc.  Next,  we  have  made 
regulations  respecting  public  worship,  religious  exercises, 
instructions,  catechisms,  confraternities,  the  administration 
of  the  sacraments,  singing,  music,  etc.  All  this  is  to  be 
executed  in  conformity  with  the  plan  formerly  adopted  in 
the  missions  of  Paraguay. 

Such  are  the  resolutions  which  we  have  adopted,  and 
which  we  submit  to  be  approved,  amended  or  modified,  by 
those  who  have  the  greater  glory  of  God  at  heart,  and  who, 
by  their  position  and  the  graces  of  their  state  of  life,  are 
designed  by  the  Most  High  to  communicate  to  us  the  true 
spirit  of  our  Society. 


St.  Mary's,  Dec.  30,  1841. 
Reverend  Father: 

I  have  given  you  the  happy  and  consoling  result  of  my 
journey  in  November.  Before  the  close  of  the  year  I 
have  yet  to  make  you  acquainted  with  what  has  passed  dur- 
ing my  absence,  and  since  my  return,  among  the  Flatheads ; 
all  goes  to  prove  what  I  have  advanced  in  my  preceding 
letters. 

The  Reverend  Fathers  Mengarini  and  Point  were  not  idle 
during  my  absence.  The  following  will  give  you  some  idea 
of  the  state  of  affairs  on  my  return,  both  in  regard  to  mate- 
rial and  spiritual  matters,  as  well  as  the  practices  and  usages 
established,  which  could  not  but  tend  to  strengthen,  more 
and  more,  our  good  neophytes. 

The  plan  mentioned  in  my  letters,  and  unanimously  ap- 
proved, and  which  we  were  urged  to  carry  into  execution, 
was,  to  commence  with  what  appeared  to  be  the  most  urgent. 


BAPTISMS   IN    THE    NEW    CHAPEL.  33 1 

We  enclosed  the  field  destined  to  become  God's  portion  of 
the  settlement.  We  started  the  buildings  intended  to  be 
hereafter  dependencies  of  the  farm,  but  serving  temporarily 
for  a  church  and  residence,  on  account  of  the  approach  of 
winter,  and  our  wish  to  unite  the  whole  colony.  These 
works  were  indispensable,  and  were  carried  on  with  such 
spirit  that  in  the  space  of  a  month  the  new  buildings  could 
shelter  from  400  to  500  souls. 

The  Flatheads,  assisting  us  with  their  whole  heart  and 
strength,  had,  in  a  short  time,  cut  from  2,000  to  3,000 
stakes;  and  the  three  Brothers,  with  no  other  tools  than 
the  axe,  saw  and  auger,  constructed  a  chapel  with  pedi- 
ment, colonnade  and  gallery,  balustrade,  choir,  seats,  etc.,  by 
St.  Martin's  day;  when  they  assembled  in  the  little  chapel 
all  the  catechumens,  and  continued  the  instructions  which 
were  to  end  on  the  3d  of  December,  the  day  fixed  for  their 
baptism.  In  the  interval  between  these  two  remarkable 
epochs,  there  was  on  each  day  one  instruction  more  than 
usual.  This  last  instruction,  intended  chiefly  for  grown 
persons,  was  given  at  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening  and  lasted 
about  an  hour  and  a  quarter.  These  good  savages,  whose 
ears  and  hearts  are  alike  open  when  the  word  of  God  is  ad- 
dressed to  them,  appeared  still  better  disposed  in  the  even- 
ing; the  silence  being  unbroken  by  the  cries  of  infants  or 
children.  Our  Heavenly  Father  so  graciously  heard  their 
prayers,  that  on  St.  Francis  Xavier's  day  the  good  Fathers 
had  the  consolation  of  baptizing  202  adults. 

So  many  souls  wrested  from  the  demons  was  more  than 
enough  to  excite  their  rage, —  seeds  of  distrust,  hindrances 
occasioned  by  the  best  intentioned,  the  sickness  of  the  in- 
terpreter and  sexton,  at  the  very  moment  their  assistance 
was  most  required ;  a  kind  of  hurricane,  which  took  place 
the  evening  before  the  baptism,  and  which  overturned  three 
lodges  in  the  camp,  the  tr^es  torn  from  their  roots,  and 
everything  in  appearance  about  to  be  uprooted,  even  to 
the  foundations  of  the  church  —  the  organ  unintentionally 


^2^2  COURSE  REGARDING  MARRIAGE. 

broken  by  the  savages,  on  the  eve  of  being  applied  to  so 
beautiful  a  purpose  —  all  seemed  to  conspire  against  them ; 
but  the  day  for  baptism  arrives,  and  every  cloud  disappears. 

The  Fathers  had  intended  to  solemnize  the  marriages  of 
the  husbands  and  waives  on  the  same  day  as  their  baptism. 
They  had  even  announced  that  the  ceremony  would  take 
place  after  baptism;  but  the  sacred  rite  having  occupied  a 
much  longer  time  than  they  supposed,  on  account  of  the 
necessity  of  interpreting  all  that  was  said,  they  were  obliged 
to  defer  this  sacrament  until  the  next  day,  trusting  to  God 
and  the  new  Christians  for  the  preservation  of  their  baptis- 
mal innocence. 

As  our  former  missionaries  have  left  nothing  in  writing 
on  the  conduct  we  should  observe  with  regard  to  marriage, 
it  may,  perhaps,  be  useful  to  relate  here  what  has  been  our 
course,  in  order  that  our  conduct  may  be  rectified  if  it  has 
not  been  judicious. 

We  hold  the  principle  that,  generally  speaking,  there  are 
no  valid  marriages  among  the  savages  of  these  countries; 
and  for  this  reason,  we  have  not  found  one,  even  among  the 
best  disposed,  who,  after  marriage  had  been  contracted  in 
their  own  fashion,  did  not  believe  himself  justified  in  send- 
ing away  his  first  wife,  whenever  he  thought  fit,  and  tak- 
ing another.  Many  even  have  several  wives  in  the  same 
lodge.  It  is,  however,  true,  that  many  when  entering  the 
marriage  state  promise  that  nothing  but  death  will  ever 
separate  them ;  that  they  will  never  give  their  hand  to  an- 
other. But  what  impassioned  man  or  woman  has  not  said 
as  much?  Can  we  infer  from  this  that  the  contract  is  valid, 
when  it  is  universally  received  that  even  after  such  prom- 
ises they  have  not  the  less  right  to  do  as  they  please,  when 
they  become  disgusted  with  each  other?  We  are  then 
agreed  on  this  principle,  that  among  them,  even  to  the  pres- 
ent time,  there  has  been  no  marriage,  because  they  have 
never  known  well  in  what  its  essence  and  obligation  con- 
sisted. To  adopt  an  opposite  view  would  be  to  involve 
one's  self  in  a  labyrinth  of  difficulties,  from  which  it  would 


WITNESSES  AND  GODFATHERS.  333 

be  very  difficult  to  escape.  This  was,  if  I  am  not  mistaken, 
the  conduct  of  St.  Francis  Xavier  in  the  Indies,  since  it  is 
said  in  his  Life  that  he  praised  before  the  married  those 
whom  he  supposed  to  be  dearest  to  them,  that  they  might 
be  more  easily  induced  to  keep  to  one  alone.  Secondly, 
supposing  then  that  there  were  material  faults  in  their  mar- 
riages, the  necessity  of  a  renewal  was  not  spoken  of  but  for 
the  time  which  followed  baptism,  and  this  took  place  the 
day  following  that  happy  occasion. 

After  the  Fathers  had  gained  the  necessary  information 
respecting  the  degrees  of  relationship,  and  had  given  the 
necessary  dispensations,  the  marriage  ceremony,  preceded 
by  a  short  instruction,  was  performed,  and  contributed 
greatly  to  give  the  people  a  high  idea  of  our  holy  religion. 

The  twenty-four  marriages  then  contracted  presented  that 
mixture  of  simplicity,  of  respectful  affection  and  profound 
joy,  which  are  the  sure  indications  of  a  good  conscience. 
There  were  among  the  couples  good  old  men  and  women; 
but  their  presence  only  rendered  the  ceremony  more  re- 
spectable in  the  eyes  of  those  assembled;  for  among  the 
Flatheads  all  that  relates  to  religion  is  sacred;  unhappy 
he  who  would  so  express  himself  before  them  as  to  lead 
them  to  believe  that  he  thought  otherwise.  They  left  the 
chapel,  their  hearts  filled  with  sentiments  purified  by  that 
grace  which  constitutes  the  charm  of  every  state  of  life,  and 
especially  of  those  in  wedlock. 

The  only  thing  that  appeared  strange  to  them  was  when 
the  Fathers  spoke  of  taking  the  names  of  witnesses;  but 
when  they  were  told  that  this  was  only  done  because  the 
church  so  ordained,  to  give  more  authority  and  dignity  to 
the  marriage  contract,  they  no  longer  saw  in  it  anything 
but  what  was  reasonable,  and  the  question  was,  w^ho  should 
be  witness  for  the  others  ? 

The  same  astonishment  was  manifested  with  regard  to 
godfathers.  The  interpreter  had  translated  the  word  god- 
father, a  term  which  is  not  in  their  language,  by  second 
father.     The  poor  savages  not  knowing  what  this  meant, 


334  DECORATIONS  OF  THE  CHAPEL. 

or  what  consequences  this  title  would  imply,  were  not  eager 
to  make  a  choice.  To  be  a  godfather  moreover  offered  no 
great  attraction.  As  soon  as  we  made  them  understand  it, 
their  difficulties  vanished,  and  the  more  easily;  for  not  to 
multiply  spiritual  affinities,  a  godfather  only  was  given  to 
the  men,  and  a  godmother  to  the  women ;  and  as  to  the  ob- 
ligations attached  to  the  honor  of  being  sponsors,  they 
were  much  less  here  than  elsewhere,  the  Black-robes  prom- 
ising to  take  upon  themselves  the  greatest  part  of  the  burden. 
For  the  first  baptisms  our  choice  of  sponsors  was  very 
limited;  only  thirteen  grown  persons  were  qualified  to  act 
in  this  capacity  —  but  the  most  aged  persons  being  baptized 
before  the  others,  they,  without  laying  aside  the  lighted 
candle,  (the  symbol  of  faith)  were  chosen  for  the  second 
division;  and  so  in  like  manner  with  the  rest. 

The  day  preceding  the  baptism,  the  Fathers,  on  account  of 
their  labors,  were  only  able  to  collect  the  colony  twice ;  besides 
Father  Mengarini  was  indisposed:  In  the  evening,  how- 
ever, he  assembled  the  people,  and  great  was  their  astonish- 
ment on  beholding  the  decorations  of  the  chapel.  Some 
days  previously  the  Fathers  had  engaged  all  who  were 
willing,  to  make  mats  of  rushes  or  straws.  All  the  women, 
girls  and  children  assembled  eagerly  for  this  good  work, 
so  that  they  had  enough  to  cover  the  floor  and  ceiling  and 
hang  around  the  walls.  These  mats,  ornamented  with  fes- 
toons of  green,  made  a  pretty  drapery  around  the  altar. 
On  a  canopy  was  inscribed  the  holy  name  of  Jesus.  Among 
the  ornaments  they  placed  a  picture  of  the  Blessed  Virgin 
over  the  tabernacle;  on  the  door  of  the  tabernacle  a  repre- 
sentation of  the  heart  of  Jesus.  The  pictures  of  the  way 
of  the  cross,  in  red  frames ;  the  lights,  the  silence  of  night, 
the  approach  of  the  important  day,  the  calm  after  the  hurri- 
cane, which  had  burst  on  them  only  a  few  moments  before  — 
all  these  circumstances  united  had,  with  the  grace  of  God, 
so  well  disposed  the  minds  and  hearts  of  our  Indians,  that 
it  would  have  been  scarcely  possible  to  find  on  earth  an 
assembly  of  savages  more  resembling  a  company  of  saints. 


SAME   HUSBANDS  AND   WIVES.  335 

This  was  the  beautiful  bouquet  which  the  Fathers  were 
permitted  to  present  to  Saint  Francis  Xavier.  The  next 
day  they  were  engaged  from  eight  o'clock  in  the  morning 
until  half-past  ten  at  night,  in  the  church,  excepting  only 
one  hour  and  a  half,  which  they  gave  to  repose.  The  follow- 
ing was  the  order  followed.  First,  they  baptized  the  chiefs 
and  married  men.  These  were  chosen  as  godfathers  for  the 
young  men  and  little  boys ;  then  the  married  women,  whose 
husbands  were  living  with  them;  afterward  the  widows 
and  wives  who  had  been  cast  off;  and  lastly  the  young 
women  and  girls. 

It  was  gratifying  to  hear  with  what  intelligence  these 
good  savages  replied  to  all  the  questions  addressed  to  them, 
and  to  see  them  praying  at  the  moment  of  receiving  bap- 
tism. At  the  end,  each  received  a  taper  whose  blended 
light  beautifully  illuminated  our  humble  chapel. 

But  let  us  come  to  something  still  more  edifying.  I 
shall  not  speak  of  their  assiduous  attendance  at  the  instruc- 
tions —  of  their  eagerness  to  hear  our  words  —  of  the  evi- 
dent profit  they  received  from  them ;  all  this  is  common  in 
the  course  of  a  mission ;  but  rarely  do  we  witness  the  heroic 
sacrifices  which  these  Indians  have  made.  Many  who  had 
two  wives  have  retained  her  whose  children  were  most 
numerous,  and  with  all  possible  respect  dismissed  the  other. 
One  evening,  a  savage  came  to  seek  the  Fathers  at  the 
lodge,  which  was  filled  with  Indians,  and  unabashed  by  any 
merely  human  consideration,  asked  what  he  should  do  in 
his  present  circumstances?  On  the  instant  he  acted  ac- 
cording to  the  instructions  given  him ;  he  dismissed  his 
youngest  wife,  giving  her  what  he  would  have  wished  an- 
other to  give  to  his  sister,  if  in  the  same  situation,  and 
was  reunited  to  his  first  wife,  whom  he  had  forsaken.  After 
an  instruction,  a  young  woman,  asking  to  speak,  said  that 
"  she  desired  very  much  to  receive  baptism,  but  that  she 
had  been  so  wicked  she  dared  not  make  the  request."  Each 
one  would  have  made  a  public  confession.  A  great  num- 
ber of  young  mothers,  married  according  to  the  mode  of 


236  REWARDS  FOR  CATECHISM. 

the  savages,  but  abandoned  by  their  husbands,  who  were 
of  some  other  tribe,  renounced  them  most  wilhngly,  to  have 
the  happiness  of  being  baptized. 

The  ordinary  regulations  observed  in  the  village  are  as 
follows:  When  the  Angelus  rings,  the  Indians  rise  from 
sleep;  half  an  hour  after,  the  morning  prayers  are  said  in 
common;  all  assist  at  mass  and  at  the  instruction.  A 
second  instruction  is  given  at  evening,  toward  sunset,  and 
lasts  about  an  hour  and  a  quarter.  At  two  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon  we  have  the  regular  catechism  for  the  children, 
at  which  grown  persons  may  assist  if  they  think  proper. 
The  children  are  formed  into  two  divisions:  the  first  is 
composed  exclusively  of  those  who  know  the  first  prayers ; 
the  second  of  the  smaller  children.  One  of  the  Fathers 
each  morning  visits  the  sick,  to  furnish  them  with  medicines, 
and  give  them  such  assistance  as  their  wants  may  require. 

We  have  adopted  the  system  of  instruction  and  bestowing 
rewards,  in  usage  in  the  schools  of  the  brothers  of  the  Chris- 
tian doctrine.  During  catechism,  which  lasts  about  an  hour, 
we  have  recitations  and  explanations,  intermingled  with 
canticles.  Every  day,  for  each  good  answer,  tickets  of 
approbation  are  given ;  one  or  more,  according  to  the  diffi- 
culty of  the  question  proposed.  Experience  has  proved 
that  these  tickets  given  at  once,  are  less  embarrassing  than 
when  we  mark  their  names  on  a  list ;  the  former  plan  takes 
less  time,  and  interests  the  children  more,  rendering  them, 
besides,  more  assiduous  and  careful.  These  tickets  serve, 
at  the  same  time,  as  certificates  of  attendance  at  catechism, 
and  as  tokens  of  intelligence  and  good  will,  they  please  the 
parent  not  less  than  their  children.  The  former  are  in- 
cited to  make  their  children  repeat  what  has  been  said  at 
catechism,  to  render  them  capable  of  answering  better  the 
following  day;  and  also  with  a  desire  of  improving  them- 
selves. The  wish  to  see  their  children  distinguish  them- 
selves, has  attracted  almost  the  whole  colony  to  catechism; 
none  of  the  chiefs  who  have  children  fail  to  be  there;  and 
there  is  not  less  emulation  among  the  parents  than  among 


MANAGING  THE  CHILDREN.  337 

the  children  themselves.  A  still  greater  value  is  attached 
to  the  tickets,  from  the  exactitude  and  justice  with  which 
the  deserving  are  rewarded.  They  who  have  obtained  good 
tickets  during  the  week,  are  rewarded  on  Sunday  with 
crosses,  medals,  or  ribbons,  publicly  distributed.  On  the 
first  Sunday  of  every  month  they  distribute  to  those  who 
have  received  the  most  good  tickets  in  the  course  of  the 
month,  medals  or  pictures,  which  become  their  private  prop- 
erty. These  pictures,  preserved  with  care,  are  great  stimu- 
lants, not  only  to  the  study  of  their  catechism  but  also  to 
the  practice  of  piety.  They  are  monuments  of  victory,  ex- 
amples of  virtue,  exhortations  to  piety,  and  models  of  per- 
fection. Their  rarity,  and  the  efforts  necessary  to  obtain 
them,  also  enhance  their  worth.  As  we  desire  to  inspire 
the  savages,  who  are  naturally  inclined  to  idleness,  with 
a  love  for  work,  it  has  been  judged  suitable  to  reward  their 
little  efforts  in  the  same  manner  as  we  recompense  their 
improvement  in,  and  knowledge  of  their  catechism. 

To  maintain  order,  and  promote  emulation  among  them, 
the  catechism  children  are  divided  into  seven  or  eight  sec- 
tions, of  six  each;  the  boys  on  one  side,  the  girls  on  the 
other.  At  the  head  of  each  section  there  is  a  chief,  who 
must  assist  the  children  placed  under  him  to  learn  their 
catechism ;  that  thus  every  child  may  indulge  the  hope  of 
meriting  a  reward  at  the  end  of  the  week  or  month.  They 
are  so  divided  that  the  competitors,  to  the  number  of  five  or 
six  in  each  section,  may  be  of  nearly  equal  capacity. 

Father  Point,  who  was,  immediately  after  Christmas,  to 
accompany  the  assembled  camps  of  Flatheads,  Pend 
d'Oreilles,  Nez  Perces,  etc.,  prepared  for  his  new  campaign 
by  a  retreat  of  eight  days.  Twenty-four  marriages,  as  I 
have  already  said,  had  been  celebrated  during  my  absence, 
and  202  adults,  with  little  boys  and  girls  from  eight  to 
fourteen  years  of  age,  had  been  baptized.  There  were 
still  thirty-four  couples,  who  awaited  my  return  to  receive 
the  sacraments  of  baptism  and  marriage,  or  to  renew  their 
marriage  vows.  The  Nez  Perces  had  not  yet  presented  their 
22 


338  THE  CAMP  GOES  TO  BUFFALO. 

children  for  baptism.  There  was  an  old  chief  of  the  Black- 
feet  nation,  in  the  camp,  with  his  son  and  his  little  family, 
five  in  all,  who  had  been  hitherto  very  assiduous  in  their 
attendance  at  prayers  and  catechism.  The  day  succeeding 
my  arrival  I  commenced  giving  three  instructions  daily,  be- 
sides the  catechism,  which  was  taught  by  the  other  Fathers. 
They  profited  so  well  that,  with  the  grace  of  God, 
115  Flatheads,  with  three  chiefs  at  their  head,  thirty 
Nez  Perces  with  their  chief,  and  the  Blackfoot  chief  and  his 
family,  presented  themselves  at  the  baptismal  font  on  Christ- 
mas day.  I  began  my  masses  at  seven  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing; at  five  o'clock  p.  m.  I  still  found  myself  in  the  chapel. 
The  heart  can  conceive,  but  the  tongue  cannot  express  the 
emotions  which  such  a  consoling  spectacle  may  well  awaken. 
The  following  day  I  celebrated  a  solemn  mass  of  thanksgiv- 
ing for  the  signal  favors  with  which  our  Lord  had  deigned 
to  visit  his  people.  From  six  to  seven  hundred  new  Chris- 
tians, with  bands  of  little  children,  baptized  in  the  past  year 

—  all  assembled  in  a  poor  little  chapel,  covered  with  rushes 

—  in  the  midst  of  a  desert,  where  but  lately  the  name  of  God 
was  scarcely  known;  offering  to  the  Creator  their  regen- 
erated hearts,  protesting  that  they  would  persevere  in  his 
holy  service  even  to  death,  was  an  offering,  without  doubt, 
most  agreeable  to  God,  and  which,  we  trust,  will  draw  down 
the  dews  of  heaven  upon  the  Flathead  nation  and  the  neigh- 
boring tribes. 

On  the  29th  the  large  camp,  accompanied  by  the  Fathers, 
left  us  for  the  great  buffalo  hunt,  and  joined  the  Pend 
d'Oreilles,  who  awaited  them  at  two  days'  journey  hence; 
there  will  be  above  200  lodges.  I  am  filled  with 
hope  for  the  success  and  fresh  victories,  with  which,  I  trust, 
God  will  deign  to  reward  the  zeal  of  his  servant.  In  the 
meantime  we  occupy  ourselves  (Father  Mengarini  and  my- 
self) in  translating  the  catechism  into  the  Flathead  tongue; 
and  in  preparing  150  persons  for  their  first  communion. 

Our  good  Brothers  and  the  Canadians  are  engaged  at  the 
same  time  in  erecting  around  our  establishment  a  strong 


THE  YEAR  S  ACHIEVEMENTS,  339 

palisade,  fortified  with  bastions,  to  shelter  us  from  the  incur- 
sions of  the  Blackfeet,  whom  we  daily  expect  to  visit  us. 
Our  confidence  in  God  is  not  weakened;  we  take  the  pre- 
cautions which  prudence  dictates,  and  remain  without  fear 
at  our  post. 

A  young  Sinpoil'^  has  just  arrived  in  our  camp,  and  these 
are  his  words :  "  I  am  a  Sinpoil,  my  nation  is  compassion- 
ate. I  have  been  sent  to  hear  your  words,  and  learn  the 
prayer  you  teach  the  Flatheads.  The  Sinpoils  desire  also 
to  know  it,  and  to  imitate  their  example."  This  young 
man  proposes  to  pass  the  winter  in  our  camp,  and  return  in 
the  spring  to  his  own  nation,  to  sow  among  them  the  seeds 
of  the  gospel. 

The  whole  Flathead  nation  converted  —  400  Kalispels 
baptized  —  eighty  Nez  Perces,  seven  Coeurs  d'Alene,  many 
Kootenais,  Blackfeet,  Snakes  and  Bannocks  —  the  Sinpoils, 
the  Chaudieres,  who  open  their  arms  to  us,  and  eagerly  ask 
for  Fathers  to  instruct  them ;  the  earnest  demands  from  Fort 
Vancouver  on  the  part  of  the  Governor  [Doctor  McLough- 
lin],  and  of  the  Reverend  Mr.  Blanchet,  assuring  us  of  the 
good  desires  and  dispositions  of  a  great  number  of  nations, 
ready  to  receive  the  gospel  —  in  a  word,  a  vast  country, 
which  only  awaits  the  arrival  of  true  ministers  of  God,  to 
rally  round  the  standard  of  the  cross  —  behold  the  beautiful 
bouquet,  Reverend  Father,  which  we  have  the  happiness  of 
presenting  you  at  the  close  of  184 1.  It  is  at  the  foot  of  the 
crucifix  that  you  are  accustomed  to  ask  counsel  of  heaven 
for  the  welfare  of  the  nations  entrusted  to  your  children. 
Our  number  is  very  far  from  sufficient  for  the  pressing  and 
real  wants  of  this  people.  The  Protestants  are  on  the  qui 
Vive.  Send  us  then  some  Fathers  and  Brothers  to  assist  us, 
and  thousands  of  souls  will  bless  you  at  the  throne  of  God 
for  all  eternity. 

^  A  tribe  of  the  Salishan  family  is  evidently  meant,  whose  name  is 
commonly  spelled  Cinq  Foils  or  Sans  Puells  —  both  French  trans- 
literations of  a  native  name. 


340  VAIN  OPPOSITION  OF  THE  DEVIL. 

Madison  Fork,  August  15,  1842. 

Reverend  and  Dear  Father: 
********* 

Our  only  building  as  yet  was  a  wooden  house,  without 
a  roof,  and  the  winter  had  already  set  in.  We  began  by 
recommending  our  wants  to  God,  and  with  God's  assist- 
ance we  found  ourselves,  on  St.  Martin's  day,  in  possession 
of  a  temporary  chapel,  large  enough  to  contain  all  the 
colony,  with  about  100  of  the  Nez  Perces  tribe,  whom  curios- 
ity had  attracted  to  the  neighborhood.  Since  that  period 
they  have  been  so  careful  in  avoiding  sin,  so  exact  in  at- 
tending our  instructions,  and  the  fruit  of  the  divine  word 
has  been  so  visible  in  our  settlement  that  on  the  3d  of 
December  202  catechumens  were  ranged  in  our  chapel,  wait- 
ing for  baptism.  This  was  too  beautiful  an  offering  to  St. 
Francis  Xavier,  apostle  of  the  Indians,  not  to  excite  the  fury 
of  man's  great  enemy.  Accordingly,  for  a  few  days  pre- 
viously we  encountered  multiplied  trials.  To  speak  only  of 
the  most  visible,  the  prefect,  interpreter  and  sexton  fell 
sick.  The  very  eve  of  the  great  day  the  environs  were  laid 
waste  by  a  sort  of  hurricane  —  the  church  windows  were 
broken,  large  trees  were  rooted  up,  and  three  huts  were 
thrown  down;  but  these  obstacles,  far  from  prejudicing  the 
triumph  of  religion,  served  only  to  render  it  still  more 
striking. 

The  catechumens  having  assembled  in  the  chapel,  which 
had  been  adorned  with  its  most  beautiful  ornaments,  and 
where  they  had  been  conducted  for  the  more  immediate 
preparations  of  their  hearts  prior  to  receiving  the  great 
sacrament  of  baptism,  were  so  struck  by  the  imposing  ap- 
pearance of  the  chapel  and  the  melodious  sounds  of  the 
organ,  now  heard  for  the  first  time  in  the  wilderness,  that 
they  were  not  able  to  express  their  admiration.  The  next 
day,  with  the  exception  of  the  time  the  Fathers  took  for 
their  dinner,  they  were  in  church  from  eight  o'clock  in  the 
morning  until  half-past  ten  in  the  evening.     How  delight- 


A  POOR   HUSBAND  S  DILEMMA,  34I 

fill  it  was  to  listen  to  the  intelligent  answers  of  the  good 
savages  to  all  the  questions  proposed  to  them.  Never  will 
those  who  were  present  forget  the  pious  spirit  of  their 
replies.  The  rehabilitations  of  their  marriages  succeeded 
baptism,  but  not  without  great  sacrifices  on  their  part,  be- 
cause until  that  time  the  poor  Indians  had  been  ignorant 
of  the  unity  and  indissolubility  of  the  conjugal  tie.  We 
could  not  help  admiring  the  mighty  effects  of  the  sacrament 
of  baptism  in  their  souls.  One  poor  husband  hesitated  as 
to  which  of  his  wives  he  should  select.  The  oldest  of 
them,  perceiving  his  irresolution,  said  to  him :  "  You  know 
how  much  I  love  you,  and  I  am  also  certain  that  you  love 
me,  but  you  cherish  another  more;  she  is  younger  than 
1  am.  Well,  remain  with  her ;  leave  me  our  children,  and  in 
that  manner  we  can  all  be  baptized."    I  could  cite  many  such 

traits. 
********* 


CHAPTER  VIII.* 

JOURNEY  TO  FORT   COLVILLE  AND  RETURN. 

Autumn  of  1841. 

Need  of  provisions  and  seeds  —  Start  for  Fort  Colville  —  Hell  Gate 
—  Animals  of  the  country  —  The  ingenious  carcajou  —  Meetings  with 
Indians  —  Kalispels  raising  potatoes  —  Scenery  and  dangers  of  Clark's 
Fork  —  Large  timber  —  Lake  Pend  d'Oreille  —  Arrival  at  Colville  — 
Hospitality  of  Macdonald — Return  journey  —  Adam  and  Eve  and  the 
buffalo  fat  —  Hell  unchained  among  the  Kalispels  —  Sixty  baptisms. 

•ff  HAVE  just  finished  a  little  journey  to  Fort  Colville 
"  on  the  Columbia  river,  about  320  miles  from  our  es- 
tablishment. Although  the  season  was  far  advanced,  two 
reasons  determined  me  to  make  the  journey :  First,  we 
had  to  have  provisions  for  the  winter ;  seeds  for  the  coming 
spring;  tools  for  the  Indians  so  well  disposed  to  work;  cat- 
tle, and  in  short  whatever  the  establishment  of  our  first 
reduction  required :  second,  my  desire  to  visit  the  Pend 
d'Oreilles  who  generally  spend  the  autumn  upon  Clark's 
Fork. 

On  the  eve  of  my  departure  I  informed  the  Flatheads  of 
my  intentions.  I  requested  them  to  procure  some  horses, 
and  a  small  escort,  in  case  I  should  meet  with  any  of  their 
enemies,  the  Blackfeet.  They  brought  to  me  seventeen 
horses,  the  number  I  had  asked  them;  and  ten  young  and 
brave  warriors,  who  had  already  been  often  pierced  with 

1  This  chapter  comprises  a  portion  of  Book  H,  Letters  and  Sketches, 
purporting  to  have  been  written  at  the  Madison  Forks,  August  15, 
1842,  and  Letter  IX,  Second  Voyage,  Voyages  aux  Montagnes- 
Rocheuses,  dated  St.  Mary's,  December  28,  1841,  and  addressed  "  To 
A  Father  of  the  Company  of  Jesus."  The  two  are  parallel,  but  the 
French  narrative  contains  additional  matter,  here  translated  for  the 
first  time.     Aside  from  this,  the  English  text  is  followed. 

[342] 


ON  THE  WAY  TO  COLVILLE.  343 

balls  and  arrows  in  different  skirmishes,  presented  them- 
selves to  accompany  me  on  my  journey.  With  pleasure  I 
bear  testimony  to  their  devotedness,  their  childlike  simplic- 
ity and  docility,  politeness,  complaisance  and  rare  hilarity; 
but,  above  all,  to  their  exemplary  piety.  These  good  Flat- 
heads  endeavored  in  every  manner  to  divine  and  anticipate 
all  my  wants. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  28th  of  October,  as  I  have  al- 
ready said,  we  commenced  our  march,  and  made  about  forty 
miles  down  the  valley  of  the  Bitter  Root.  That  day  we  met 
no  one  but  a  solitary  hunter,  who  was  carrying  a  buck,  the 
half  of  which  he  offered  to  us  with  great  eagerness.  This 
furnished  us  with  an  excellent  supper,  and  a  good  break- 
fast for  the  next  morning.  The  29th,  snow  fell  in  large 
flakes,  notwithstanding  which  we  continued  our  march.  We 
crossed,  in  the  course  of  the  day,  a  fine  stream,  without  a 
name  [Lolo  Fork]  —  the  same  one  which  the  famous  travel- 
ers, Lewis  and  Clark,  ascended  in  1805,  on  their  way  to  the 
section  of  country  occupied  by  the  tribe  of  the  Nez  Perces. 
I  will  call  it  the  river  of  St.  Francis  Borgia.  Six  miles 
further  south  we  crossed  the  beautiful  river  of  St.  Ignatius 
[Hell  Gate].  It  enters  the  plain  of  the  Bitter  Root  —  which 
we  shall  henceforward  call  St.  Mary's  —  by  a  beautiful  de- 
file, commonly  called,  by  the  mountaineers  or  Canadian 
hunters,  the  Hell  Gate;  for  what  reason,  however,  I  know 
not.  These  gentlemen  have  frequently  on  their  lips  the 
words  devil  and  hell ;  and  it  is  perhaps  on  this  account  that 
we  heard  so  often  these  appellations.  Be  not  then  alarmed 
when  I  tell  you  that  I  examined  the  Devil's  pass,  went 
through  the  Devil's  gate,  rowed  on  Satan's  stream,  and 
jumped  from  the  Devil's  horns.  The  "  rake,"  ^  one  of  the 
passes,  the  horns,  and  the  stream,  really  deserve  names  that 
express  something  horrible  —  all  three  are  exceedingly  dan- 
gerous. The  first  and  second,  on  the  Missouri,  on  account 
of  the  innumerable  snags  which  fill  their  beds,  as  there  are 
entire  forests  swallowed  up  by  the  river.  The  third  pass  of 
2  See  ante,  p.  153. 


344  THE  CARCAJOU  AND  HIS  NEIGHBORS. 

which  I  Spoke,  adds  to  the  difficulties  of  the  others  a  cur- 
rent still  stronger.  A  canoe  launched  into  this  torrent  flies 
over  it  with  the  speed  of  an  arrow,  and  the  most  experienced 
pilot  trembles  in  spite  of  himself.  Twice  did  the  brave 
Iroquois,  who  conducted  our  light  canoe,  exclaim: 
"  Father,  we  are  lost;"  but  a  loud  cry  of  "  Courage  —  take 
courage,  John,  confide  in  God,  keep  steady  to  the  oar," 
saved  us  in  that  dangerous  stream,  drew  us  out  from  be- 
tween the  horns  and  threatening  teeth  of  this  awful  "  rake." 

But  let  us  return  to  our  account  of  the  journey  to  Colville. 
We  spread  our  skins  on  the  borders  of  a  little  river  at  the 
foot  of  a  high  mountain,  which  we  were  to  cross  the  next 
day,  having  traversed  St.  Mary's  valley,  a  distance  of 
about  forty  miles.  This  valley  is  from  four  to  seven  miles 
wide,  and  above  200  long.  It  has  but  one  fine  de- 
file, already  mentioned,  and  which  serves  as  the  entrance 
to,  and  issue  from,  the  valley.  The  mountains  which  ter- 
minate it  on  both  sides  appear  to  be  inaccessible;  they  are 
piles  of  jagged  rocks,  the  base  of  which  presents  nothing 
but  fragments  of  the  same  description,  while  the  Norwegian 
pine  grows  on  those  that  are  covered  with  earth,  giving 
them  a  very  sombre  appearance,  particularly  in  the  autumn, 
in  which  season  the  snow  begins  to  fall.  They  abound  in 
bucks,  buffalo  and  sheep,  whose  wool  is  as  white  as  snow 
and  as  fine  as  silk;  also  in  all  kinds  of  bears,  wolves,  pan- 
thers and  carcajoux  (an  animal  with  short  paws,  some  four 
feet  long  and  remarkably  powerful;  when  he  has  killed  his 
prey,  deer,  antelope  or  bighorn,  he  tears  off  a  piece  of  skin 
big  enough  to  stick  his  head  through  after  the  fashion  of  a 
hood,  and  thus  drags  it  off  whole  to  his  den) .  There  are  also 
found  tiger  cats,  wild  cats  and  whistlers,  a  species  of  moun- 
tain rat.  The  moose  is  found  here,  but  is  very  seldom 
caught,  on  account  of  its  extraordinary  vigilance,  for  on  the 
slightest  rustling  of  a  branch  it  leaves  off  eating,  and  will  not 
return  to  its  food  for  a  long  time  afterward. 

The  soil  of  the  valley  is,  with  some  few  exceptions,  very 
light ;  it  contains,  however,  some  good  pastures.    The  whole 


A  FORMIDABLE  BLACKFOOT.  345 

course  of  the  river  is  well  lined  with  trees;  especially  with 
the  pine,  the  fir,  cottonwood  and  willow  trees. 

Amongst  the  most  remarkable  birds  we  distinguished  the 
Nun's  eagle  (so  called  by  travelers  on  account  of  the  color 
of  its  head,  which  is  white,  whilst  the  other  parts  of  the 
body  are  black),  the  black  eagle,  buzzard,  waterfowl,  heron, 
crane,  pheasant  and  quail. 

The  30th,  three  horses  were  found  to  have  strayed  off 
while  grazing  freely  during  the  night  (a  liberty  which  they 
rarely  abuse)  and  we  could  not  start  until  eleven  o'clock  in 
the  morning.  We  then  ascended  a  gap  in  the  mountain.  The 
two  sides  were  very  lofty  and  studded  with  large  pines,  all 
the  branches  of  which  were  covered  with  a  black  and  very 
fine  moss,  that  hung  in  festoons,  or  in  the  shape  of  mourn- 
ing garlands,  and  added  to  the  already  funereal  appearance 
of  this  pass.  We  here  filed  off  by  a  little  path,  scarce  worthy, 
however,  of  the  name,  for  a  distance  of  six  miles.  The  road 
was  filled  with  large  blocks  of  stone  and  trunks  of  trees, 
placed  as  if  on  purpose  to  render  the  pass  difficult  and  im- 
practicable. The  summit  once  attained,  we  proceeded  to 
cross  a  smiling  little  plain,  called  the  Camas  Prairies,  where 
the  Flatheads  come  every  spring  to  dig  up  that  nourishing 
root,  which,  together  with  the  game  they  are  able  to  pro- 
cure, forms  their  chief  nourishment.  We  very  soon  de- 
scended the  mountain  in  a  zigzag  direction,  and  reached  a 
beautiful  plain,  which  is  watered  by  two  rivers,  the  St. 
Aloysius  and  St.  Stanislaus.  They  unite  in  this  plain, 
whence  they  go  to  join  the  forks  at  Clark's,  otherwise  called 
the  Flathead  river.  This  valley  extends  about  ten  miles. 
While  the  tents  were  being  set  up  I  perceived  one  of  those 
formidable  Blackfoot  Indians  in  the  act  of  hiding  himself. 
I  did  not  speak  of  it  to  my  young  companions,  fearing  that 
I  might  not  be  able  to  prevent  a  bloody  struggle  between 
them.  I,  however,  took  the  precaution  of  having  a  good 
watch  kept  over  our  horses. 

The  next  day  was  Sunday,  a  day  of  rest.  I  celebrated 
the  holy  sacrifice  of  the  mass,  and  baptized  three  little  chil- 


V 


346  A  KALISPEL  WITH  A  GOOD  MEMORY. 

dren  of  the  Pointed  Hearts'  tribe,  whose  parents  had  joined 
us  on  the  road.  The  rest  of  the  day  was  spent  in  prayer 
and  instructions.  The  chief  of  our  band,  Tecousten,  twice 
addressed  his  companions,  and  spoke  with  much  force  and 
precision  on  the  different  portions  of  our  rehgion,  which 
he  already  had  heard  explained. 

The  ist  of  November  —  All  Saints'  Day  —  after  having 
celebrated  the  holy  sacrifice  under  a  large  poplar  tree,  we 
proceeded  on  our  journey  through  a  defile  of  about  six  miles. 
At  the  ford  of  Clark's  Fork,  we  met  two  encampments  of  the 
Kalispel  tribe,  who,  having  heard  of  our  approach,  had  come 
thither  to  see  us.  Men,  women  and  children  ran  to  meet 
us,  and  pressed  our  hands  with  every  demonstration  of  sin- 
cere joy.  The  chief  of  the  first  camp  was  called  Chalax.  As 
we  had  a  barren  country  ahead  of  us,  he  procured  six  bales 
of  buffalo  meat  for  us.  I  baptized  twenty-four  children  in 
his  little  village,  and  one  young  woman,  a  Kootenai,  who 
was  dying.  The  chief  of  the  second  camp  was  named  Hoy- 
telpo;  his  band  occupied  thirty  huts.  I  spent  the  night 
amongst  them ;  and,  although  they  had  never  seen  me  before, 
they  knew  all  the  prayers  that  I  had  taught  the  Flatheads 
on  my  first  journey.  The  fact  is,  on  hearing  of  my  ar- 
rival in  the  mountains,  they  deputed  an  intelligent  young 
man  to  meet  me,  and  who  was  also  gifted  with  a  good 
memory.  Having  learned  the  prayers  and  canticles,  and 
such  points  as  were  most  essential  for  salvation,  he  re- 
peated to  the  village  all  that  he  had  heard  and  seen.  He  had 
acquitted  himself  of  his  commission  so  well,  and  with  so 
much  zeal,  that  he  gave  instructions  to  his  people  during 
the  course  of  the  winter.  The  same  desire  for  information 
concerning  religion  had  communicated  itself  to  the  other 
small  camps,  and  with  the  same  cheering  success.  It  was, 
as  you  can  easily  imagine,  a  great  consolation  for  me  to  see 
the  sign  of  the  cross  and  hear  prayers  addressed  to  the  great 
God,  and  his  praises  sung,  in  a  desert  of  about  300 
miles  extent,  where  a  Catholic  priest  had  never  been  before. 
They  were  overjoyed  when  they  heard  that  I  hoped  before 


CALUMNIOUS  AMERICAN  MINISTERS.  347 

long  to  be  able  to  leave  a  missionary  amongst  them.  They 
had  already  taken  a  step  toward  the  civilized  life  by  attempt- 
ing the  cultivation  of  potatoes.  They  offered  me  some, 
which  were  the  first  I  had  seen  since  I  left  the  United  States. 
Their  lodges  are  made  of  mats  of  rushes,  like  those  of  the 
Potawatomies,  east  of  the  mountains. 

I  cannot  pass  over  in  silence  a  beautiful  custom  that  is 
observed  by  these  good  people :  every  evening,  after  prayers, 
the  chief  instructs  his  people,  or  gives  them  some  salutary 
advice,  to  which  they  all  listen  with  most  profound  attention, 
respect  and  modesty.  To  see  them  at  their  devotions  one 
would  be  more  apt  to  mistake  them  for  members  of  a  re- 
ligious order  than  savages.  The  next  day,  before  my  de- 
parture, I  baptized  twenty-seven  children  of  the  tribe. 

That  morning  we  crossed  a  mountain  and  entered  the 
great  Camas  plain.  Wolves  are  very  numerous  and  very 
ferocious  here;  last  spring  they  carried  off  and  devoured 
more  than  forty  of  the  Kalispels'  horses.  There  is  a  boiling 
spring  a  short  distance  to  the  northeast.  A  mountainous  de- 
file ten  miles  long  led  us  thence  to  the  lovely  Horse  Prairie. 
A  fine  little  lake,  about  six  miles  around,  at  the  entrance  to 
this  prairie,  I  called  the  Lake  of  Souls,  in  honor  of  the 
church  festival  celebrated  to-day.  On  that  evening  we 
alighted  amongst  fifteen  huts  of  the  same  nation,  who  re- 
ceived us  with  equal  kindness.  Their  chief  had  come  several 
miles  to  meet  me.  He  acknowledged  frankly  that  having 
become  acquainted  with  some  American  ministers,  in  the 
course  of  the  summer  —  he  had  been  told  by  them  that  my 
prayer  (religion)  was  not  a  good  one.  "  My  heart  is  di- 
vided," said  he,  "  and  I  do  not  know  what  to  adhere  to." 
I  had  no  trouble  in  making  him  understand  the  difference 
between  those  gentlemen  and  priests,  and  the  cause  of  their 
calumnious  attacks  against  the  only  true  church  of  Christ, 
which  their  ancestors  had  abandoned. 

On  the  3d  of  November,  after  prayers  and  instructions  to 
the  savages,  we  continued  our  march.  We  were  on  the 
borders  of  Clark's  Fork,  to  which  we  were  obliged  to  keep 


348  DOCILITY  OF  LIZETTE,  THE  MULE. 

close  during  eight  days,  whilst  we  descended  the  country 
bordering  the  stream.  The  river  is  at  this  place  of  a  green- 
ish blue,  very  transparent,  caused  probably  by  the  deposit  of 
a  great  quantity  of  oxigen  of  iron  [sic].  Our  path  during 
a  great  part  of  the  day  was  on  the  declivity  of  a  lofty,  rocky 
mountain ;  we  were  here  obliged  to  climb  a  steep  rough  pass 
from  400  to  600  feet  high.  I  had  before  seen  landscapes  of 
awful  grandeur,  but  this  one  certainly  surpassed  all  others 
in  horror.  My  courage  failed  at  the  first  sight ;  it  was  im- 
possible to  remain  on  horseback,  and  on  foot  my  weight  of 
211  pounds  was  no  trifle.  This,  therefore,  was  the  ex- 
pedient to  which  I  resorted  :  my  mule  Lizette  was  sufficiently 
docile  and  kind  to  allow  me  to  grasp  her  tail,  to  which  I  held 
on  firmly :  crying  at  one  moment  aloud,  and  at  other  times 
making  use  of  the  whip  to  excite  her  courage,  until  the  good 
beast  conducted  me  safely  to  the  very  top  of  the  mountain. 
There  I  breathed  freely  for  a  while,  and  contemplated  the 
magnificent  prospect  that  presented  itself  to  my  sight.  The 
windings  of  the  river  with  the  scenery  on  its  banks  were 
before  me ;  on  one  side  hung  over  our  heads  rocks  piled  on 
rocks  in  the  most  precipitous  manner,  and  on  the  other  stood 
lofty  peaks  crowned  with  snow  and  pine  trees :  mountains 
of  every  shape  and  feature  reared  their  towering  forms  be- 
fore us.  It  really  was  a  fine  view  and  one  which  was  well 
worth  the  effort  we  had  made.  On  descending  from  this  ele- 
vation I  had  to  take  new  precautions.  I  preceded  the  mule, 
holding  her  by  the  bridle,  while  she  moved  cautiously  down 
to  the  foot  of  the  "  Bad  Rock  "  (as  it  is  called  by  the  sav- 
ages), as  though  she  feared  stumbling  and  rolling  with  her 
master  into  the  river  which  flowed  beneath  us. 

At  this  place  Clark's  Fork  runs  through  a  narrow  defile 
of  rocky  mountains ;  at  times  the  soft  murmurings  of  the 
waters  charm  the  traveler,  at  others  it  spreads  out  and 
presents  a  calm  surface  clear  as  crystal.  Wherever  it  is  nar- 
rowed or  intercepted  by  rocks  it  forms  rapids,  with  falls  and 
cascades;  the  noise  of  which,  like  that  caused  by  a  storm 
in  the  forest,  is  heard  at  a  great  distance.     Nothing  can  be 


FINEST    FOREST    IN    AMERICA,  349 

more  diversified  than  this  fine  river.  There  is  in  this  vicinity 
a  great  variety  of  trees,  bushes  and  different  species  of  the 
tamarisk  tree.  The  Hchnis,  a  medicinal  plant  mentioned  by 
Charlevoix  in  his  history  of  Canada,  grows  here  abundantly. 

\\'e  met  in  the  course  of  that  day  with  only  one  family, 
and  that  was  of  the  Kalispel  tribe.  Whilst  the  women  were 
rowing  up  the  river  their  light  canoe,  made  of  fir-tree  bark, 
whicli  contained  their  children  and  all  the  baggage,  the  men 
followed  along  the  bank  with  their  rifles  or  bows  in  their 
hands  in  pursuit  of  game.  In  all  the  little  meadows  or 
bottom-lands  that  we  traversed,  we  saw  a  great  number  of 
horses,  which  the  savages  leave  there,  unguarded,  often  for 
months  at  a  time;  this  they  call  "caging"  the  horses;  in 
fact,  they  seldom  wander  very  far  away. 

On  the  4th  we  entered  a  cedar  and  pine  forest  so  dense 
that  in  its  whole  length  we  could  scarcely  see  beyond  the 
distance  of  twenty  yards.  Our  beasts  of  burden  suffered 
a  great  deal  in  it  from  the  want  of  grass.  We  scarcely  got 
through  it  after  three  days'  march.  It  was  a  real  labyrinth ; 
from  morning  till  night  we  did  nothing  but  wind  about  to 
avoid  thousands  of  trees,  fallen  from  either  fire,  storms  or 
age.  On  issuing  from  this  forest  we  were  charmed  by  an 
interesting  pros])ect :  Our  view  extended  over  the  whole 
surface  of  the  lake  called  Pend  d'Oreille,  studded  with  small 
islands  covered  with  woods :  over  its  inlets  and  the  hills 
v^hich  overlook  them,  and  which  have  for  the  most  part 
their  base  on  the  borders  of  the  lake  and  rise  by  gradual 
terraces  or  elevations  until  they  reach  the  adjoining  moun- 
tains, which  are  covered  with  perpetual  snow.  The  lake 
is  about  thirty  miles  long  and  from  four  to  seven  wide. 
Another  spectacle,  still  more  magnificent,  had  arrested  our 
attention  before  we  reached  the  lake.  At  the  head  of  it  we 
traversed  a  forest,  which  is  certainly  a  wonder  of  its  kind ; 
there  is  probably  nothing  similar  to  it  in  America.  The 
savages  speak  of  it  as  the  finest  in  Oregon,  and  really  every 
tree  which  it  contains  is  enormous  in  its  kind.  The  birch, 
elm  and  beach,  generally  small  elsewhere,  like  the  toad  of 


350 


A  NATURAL  TEMPLE. 


La  Fontaine,  that  aimed  at  being  as  large  as  the  ox,  swell 
out  here  to  twice  their  size.  They  would  fain  rival  the 
cedar,  the  Goliath  of  the  forest,  who,  however,  looking 
down  with  contempt  upon  his  pitiful  companions, 

"  Eleve  aux  cieux 
Son  front  audacieux." 

The  birch  and  beech  at  its  side  resemble  large  candelabra 
placed  around  a  massive  column.  Cedars  of  four  and  five 
fathoms  in  circumference  are  here  very  common;  we  saw 
some  six,  and  I  measured  one  forty-two  feet  in  circumfer- 
ence. A  cedar  of  four  fathoms,  lying  on  the  ground, 
measured  more  than  200  feet  in  length.  The  delicate 
branches  of  these  noble  trees  entwine  themselves  above  the 
beech  and  elm;  their  fine,  dense  and  ever-green  foliage 
forming  an  arch  through  which  the  sun's  rays  never  pene- 
trate; and  this  lofty  vault,  supported  by  thousands  of 
columns,  brought  to  the  mind's  eye  the  idea  of  an  immense 
temple,  reared  by  the  hand  of  nature  to  the  glory  of  its 
Author. 

Before  entering  the  forest  we  crossed  a  high  mountain 
by  a  wild  winding  path.  Its  sides  are  covered  with  fine 
cedars  and  pines,  which  are,  however,  of  smaller  dimen- 
sions than  those  in  the  forest.  Several  times  whilst  as- 
cending the  mountain  I  found  myself  on  parapets  of  rocks, 
whence,  thanks  to  my  safe-footed  mule,  I  retired  in  safety. 
Once  I  thought  my  career  at  an  end.  I  had  wandered 
from  my  companions,  and  following  the  path,  I  all  at  once 
came  to  a  rocky  projection  which  terminated  in  a  point 
about  two  feet  wide;  before  me  was  a  perpendicular  de- 
scent of  three  feet;  on  my  left  stood  a  rock  as  straight  as 
a  wall,  and  on  my  right  yawned  a  precipice  of  about  a 
thousand  feet.  You  can  conceive  that  my  situation  was 
anything  but  pleasant.  The  slightest  false  step  would  have 
plunged  the  mule  and  her  rider  into  the  abyss  beneath. 
To  descend  was  impossible,  as  on  one  side  I  was  closed 


LIZETTES   FORTUNATE   LEAP.  35 1 

in  by  the  rock,  and  suspended  over  a  dreadful  chasm  on 
the  other.  My  mule  had  stopped  at  the  commencement 
of  the  descent,  and  not  having  any  time  to  lose,  I  recom- 
mended myself  to  God,  and  as  a  last  expedient  sank  my 
spurs  deeply  into  the  sides  of  my  poor  beast;  she  made 
one  bold  leap  and  safely  landed  me  on  another  parapet 
much  larger  than  that  I  had  left. 

The  history  of  the  fine  forest,  and  my  leap  from  the 
dangerous  rock,  will  be  treated  with  incredulity  by  many 
of  your  acquaintance.  If  so,  tell  them  that  I  invite  them 
to  visit  both  these  places :  "  Venite  et  videte."  I  promise 
them  beforehand  that  they  will  admire  with  me  the  won- 
ders of  nature.  They  will  have,  like  me,  their  moments  of 
admiration  and  of  fear. 

I  cannot  pass  over  in  silence  the  pleasant  meeting  I  had 
in  the  depth  of  the  forest.  I  discovered  a  little  hut  of 
rushes,  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  river.  Raising  my  voice 
to  its  highest  pitch,  I  tried  to  make  its  inhabitants  hear 
me,  but  received  no  answer.  I  felt  an  irresistible  desire  to 
visit  it,  and  accordingly  made  my  interpreter  accompany 
me.  We  found  it  occupied  by  a  poor  old  woman,  who  was 
blind  and  very  ill.  I  spoke  to  her  of  the  Great  Spirit,  of 
the  most  essential  dogmas  of  our  faith  and  of  baptism. 
The  example  of  the  Apostle  St.  Philip  teaches  us  that  there 
are  cases  when  all  the  requisite  dispositions  may  entirely 
consist  in  an  act  of  faith,  and  in  the  sincere  desire  to  enter 
heaven  by  the  right  path.  All  the  answers  of  the  poor  old 
woman  were  respectful,  and  breathing  the  love  of  God. 
"  Yes,"  she  would  say,  "  I  love  the  Great  Spirit  with  my 
whole  heart;  all  my  Hfe  he  has  been  very  kind  to  me.  Yes, 
I  wish  to  be  his  child,  I  want  to  be  his  forever."  And 
immediately  she  fell  on  her  knees  and  begged  me  to  give 
her  baptism.  I  named  her  Mary,  and  placed  around  her 
neck  the  miraculous  medal  of  the  Blessed  Virgin.  After 
leaving  her,  I  overheard  her  thanking  God  for  this  fortu- 
nate adventure. 


352 


BAPTISMS  OF  OLD  MEN. 


I  had  scarcely  regained  the  path,  when  I  met  her  hus- 
band, almost  bent  to  the  earth  by  age  and  infirmity;  he 
could  hardly  drag  himself  along.  He  had  been  setting  a 
trap  in  the  forest  for  the  bucks.  The  Flatheads  who  had 
preceded  me  had  told  him  of  my  arrival.  As  soon,  there- 
fore, as  he  perceived  me,  he  began  to  cry  out,  with  a 
trembling  voice :  "  Oh,  how  delighted  I  am  to  see  our 
Father  before  I  die.  The  Great  Spirit  is  good  —  oh,  how 
happy  my  heart  is."  And  the  venerable  old  man  pressed 
my  hand  most  affectionately,  repeating  again  and  again 
the  same  expressions.  Tears  fell  from  my  eyes  on  witness- 
ing such  affection.  I  told  him  that  I  had  just  left  his  hut, 
and  had  baptized  his  wife.  "  I  heard,"  said  he,  "  of  your 
arrival  in  our  mountains,  and  of  your  baptizing  many  of 
our  people.  I  am  poor  and  old ;  I  had  hardly  dared  to  hope 
for  the  happiness  of  seeing  you.  Black-gown,  make  me 
as  happy  as  you  have  made  my  wife.  I  wish  also  to  be- 
long to  God,  and  we  will  always  love  him."  I  conducted 
him  to  the  borders  of  a  stream  that  flowed  near  us,  and 
after  a  brief  instruction,  I  administered  to  him  the  holy 
sacrament  of  baptism,  naming  him  Simon.  On  seeing 
me  depart,  he  repeated,  impressively:  "  Oh,  how  good  is 
the  Great  Spirit.  I  thank  you,  Skylax  (Black-robe),  for 
the  favor  you  have  conferred  on  me.  Oh,  how  happy  is 
my  heart.  Yes,  I  will  always  love  the  Great  Spirit.  Oh, 
how  good  the  Great  Spirit  is;  how  good  he  is." 

During  that  same  journey,  I  discovered  in  a  little  hut 
of  bulrushes  five  old  men,  who  appeared  to  be  fourscore 
years  old.  Three  of  them  were  blind,  and  the  other  two 
had  but  one  eye  each;  they  were  almost  naked,  and  offered 
a  real  personification  of  human  misery.  I  spoke  to  them 
for  a  considerable  time  on  the  means  of  salvation,  and  on 
the  bliss  of  another  world.  Their  answers  edified  me 
much,  and  affected  me  even  to  tears;  they  were  replete 
with  the  love  of  God,  a  desire  of  doing  right  and  of  dying 
well.     You  might  have  heard  these  good  old  men  crying- 


SAVAGES  INFLAMED  WITH  DIVINE  LOVE.  353 

out  from  different  parts  of  the  hut,  forming  together  a 
touching  chorus,  to  which  I  sincerely  wished  that  all  the 
children  of  St.  Ignatius  could  have  listened.  "  O  Great 
Spirit,  what  a  happiness  is  coming  to  us  in  our  old  days ! 
We  will  love  you,  O  Great  Spirit.  Le-mde  Kaikolinzocten; 
one  Ic-mclc  cltelill.  We  will  love  you,  O  Great  Spirit.  Yes, 
we  will  love  you  till  death/' 

When  we  explained  to  them  the  necessity  of  baptism, 
they  demanded  it  earnestly,  and  knelt  down  to  receive  it. 
I  have  not  found  as  yet  amongst  these  Indians,  I  will  not 
say  opposition,  but  not  even  coldness  or  indifference. 

These  little  adventures  are  our  great  consolation.  I 
would  not  have  exchanged  my  situation,  at  that  moment, 
for  any  other  on  earth.  I  was  convinced  that  such  in- 
cidents alone  were  worth  a  journey  to  the  mountains.  Ah, 
good  and  dear  fathers,  who  may  read  these  lines,  I  con- 
jure you,  through  the  mercy  of  our  Divine  Redeemer,  not 
to  hesitate  entering  this  vineyard;  its  harvest  is  ripe  and 
abundant.  Does  not  our  Savior  tell  us :  "  Ignem  veni 
mittere  in  terram  et  quid  volo  nisi  ut  accendatur?  "  It  is 
amidst  the  poor  tribes  of  these  isolated  mountains  that 
the  fire  of  divine  grace  burns  with  ardor.  Superstitious 
practices  have  disappeared;  nor  have  they  amongst  them 
the  castes  of  East  India.  Speak  to  these  savages  of 
heavenly  things;  at  once  their  hearts  are  inflamed  with 
divine  love;  and  immediately  they  go  seriously  about  the 
great  affair  of  their  salvation.  Day  and  night  they  are  at 
our  sides,  insatiable  for  the  Bread  of  Life.  Often,  on  re- 
tiring, we  hear  them  say,  "  Our  sins,  no  doubt,  rendered 
us  so  long  unworthy  to  hear  these  consoling  words." 

As  to  privations  and  dangers,  the  Oregon  missionaries 
must  expect  them,  for  they  will  certainly  meet  them,  but 
in  a  good  cause.  Sometimes  they  will  be  obliged  to  fast, 
but  a  better  appetite  will  be  their  reward.  Their  escapes 
from  the  many  dangers  of  the  road,  or  from  enemies  al- 
ways on  the  alert,  teach  them  to  confide  in  God  alone, 
23 


354  FRUITS  OF  THE  JOURNEY. 

and  ever  to  keep  their  accounts  in  order.  I  here  feel  the 
full  application  of  that  consoling  text  of  the  scripture: 
"  My  yoke  is  sweet,  and  my  burden  is  light."  At  the  last 
day  it  will  be  manifest  that  the  holy  name  of  Jesus  has  per- 
formed wonders  amongst  these  poor  people.  Their  eager- 
ness to  hear  the  glad  tidings  of  salvation  is  certainly  at  its 
height.  They  came  from  all  parts  and  from  great  dis- 
tances, to  meet  me  on  my  way,  and  presented  all  their 
young  children  and  dying  relatives  for  baptism.  Many 
followed  me  for  whole  days,  with  the  sole  desire  of  receiv- 
ing instructions.  Really  our  hearts  bled  at  the  sight  of  so 
many  souls  who  are  lost  for  the  want  of  religion's  divine 
and  saving  assistance.  Here  again  may  we  cry  out  with 
the  scripture:  "The  harvest  indeed  is  great,  but  the 
laborers  are  few."  What  Father  is  there  in  the  Society 
whose  zeal  will  not  be  enkindled  on  hearing  these  details? 
And  where  is  the  Christian  who  would  refuse  his  mite  to 
such  a  work  as  that  of  the  Propagation  of  the  Faith?  that 
precious  pearl  of  the  Church,  which  procures  salvation  to 
so  many  souls  who  otherwise  would  perish  unaided  and 
forever. 

During  my  journey,  which  lasted  forty-two  days,  I  bap- 
tized 190  persons,  of  whom  twenty-six  were  adults,  sick, 
or  in  extreme  old  age;  I  preached  to  more  than  2,000  In- 
dians; who,  thus  evidently  conducted  into  my  way  by 
Providence,  will  not,  I  trust,  tarry  long  in  ranging  them- 
selves under  the  banner  of  Jesus  Christ.  With  the  assist- 
ance of  my  catechists,  the  Flatheads,  who  were  as  yet  but 
catechumens,  the  conversion  of  the  Kalispel  tribe  was  so 
far  advanced  that  when  the  time  came  round  for  the  win- 
ter's hunting,  the  Reverend  Father  Point  enjoyed  the  con- 
solation of  seeing  them  join  the  Flathead  tribe,  with  the 
sole  desire  of  profiting  by  the  missionary's  presence.  This 
gave  him  an  opportunity  to  instruct  and  baptize  a  great 
number  on  the  Purification  and  on  the  feasts  of  the  Canon- 
ization of  St.  Ignatius  and  St.  Francis  Xavier. 

I  found  among  these  Indians  several  little  children  that 


RECOVERS  HIS  OLD  INTERPRETER.  355 

had  been  baptized  by  the  reverend  and  zealous  M.  Demers,^ 
a  Canadian  priest  resident  at  Willamette,  not  far  from  the 
Pacific,  and  who  has  made  a  number  of  excursions  as  far 
as  Fort  Colville. 

We  spent  Sunday,  the  7th  of  November,  in  devotional 
practices  with  three  Kalispel  families  on  the  shore  of  the 
lake  of  that  name,  where  we  had  arrived  the  evening  be- 
fore, as  I  related  above.  Two  boats  loaded  with  mer- 
chandise, in  charge  of  eight  half-breeds  in  the  employ  of 
the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  also  arrived  in  time  to  assist 
at  the  divine  offices.  Among  them  was  Charles,  the  Flat- 
head interpreter  who  had  rendered  me  such  great  services 
the  year  before.  I  gave  thanks  to  God  for  this  fortunate 
meeting;  he  was  on  his  way  to  join  me  again  for  this  year. 
I  owe  this  excellent  interpreter  to  the  worthy  and  re- 
spectable governor  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company,  Mr. 
McLoughlin,'*  in  whose  service  Charles  was  engaged. 

•  Modeste  Demers,  born  near  Quebec  in  1808 ;  crossed  the  continent 
with  Reverend  F.  N.  Blanchet  in  1838,  to  make  a  beginning  of  Catholic 
work  on  Puget  Sound ;  first  bishop  of  Vancouver  Island ;  died  at  Vic- 
toria, July  28,   1871.     Frequently  mentioned  in  the  present   work. 

■*  Doctor  John  McLoughlin  is  one  of  the  grand  historic  characters 
of  Oregon.  He  was  born  in  Canada,  October  19,  1784.  Educated  in 
Paris,  but  entered  the  fur  trade  in  the  Northwest  Company  service  at 
an  early  age.  About  1818  he  married  a  Scotch-Indian  half-breed, 
widow  of  Alexander  McKay  who  was  killed  in  the  Tonquin  massacre. 
In  1824  he  was  transferred  to  the  Columbia  river,  where  he  soon  rose 
to  the  position  of  Chief  Factor,  or  "  Governor."  He  selected  the  site 
of  Fort  Vancouver  and  transferred  his  headquarters  there  from 
Astoria  in  1825-6.  He  was  brought  up  in  the  Anglican  Church,  but 
became  a  Catholic  after  the  missionaries  of  that  faith  came  to  Oregon. 
He  resigned  from  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  service  in  1845  and  re- 
tired to  private  life  at  Oregon  City.  He  became  a  naturalized  citizen 
of  the  United  States.  His  later  years  were  embittered  by  land  con- 
troversies, where  his  claims  to  important  holdings  were  challenged  by 
the  immigrants.    He  died  September  7,  1857. 

He  was  a  man  of  great  dignity  and  force  and  of  an  extraordinarily 
fine  presence.  He  was  always  scrupulously  just  and  generous  to  the 
immigrants  from  the  States  and  drew  upon  himself  the  criticism  of 
his  own  people  for  his  course  in  this  respect.    Many  are  the  instances 


356  A  KALISPEL  ASKS  A  FAVOR. 

We  were  three  days  in  reaching  the  traverse  of  the 
KaHspels.  Along  the  river  we  found  at  intervals  a  great 
number  of  little  Indian  camps  of  four  to  six  lodges.  These 
poor  folk  are  obliged  to  scatter  in  winter  to  procure  food 
by  fishing  and  hunting.  The  Pend  d'Oreille  Traverse 
offers  a  fine  location  for  a  mission.  There  is  a  large  and 
fertile  prairie,  wood  will  never  fail,  the  river  abounds  in 
fish.  At  the  bottom  of  the  prairie  is  a  Httle  lake  or  marsh, 
about  six  miles  in  circumference,  which  is  a  rendezvous 
for  all  sorts  of  aquatic  birds.  A  large  number  of  Indian 
tribes  would  there  be  close  at  hand;  the  Cceur  d'Alenes, 
the  Spokans,  the  Kettles,  the  Simpoils,^  the  Kootenais, 
the  Gens-du-lac,  the  Nez  Perces  and  several  others,  are 
scarce  more  than  two  or  three  days'  travel  away.  Besides 
Fort  Colville  is  within  a  long  day's  ride,  which  would  make 
it  very  easy  to  procure  victuals,  tools  and  clothing. 

On  the  13th  we  were  eight  hours  in  crossing  a  lofty 
snow-covered  mountain.  That  evening,  we  had  no  more 
than  made  our  camp,  upon  a  little  stream  [Mill  creek] 
which  runs  into  the  Columbia  river,  when  we  received  a 
visit  from  several  Kalispels.  I  was  agreeably  surprised  by 
the  petition  of  one  of  them:  "  I  am  just  in  from  a  hunt," 
he  said,  "  where  I  have  killed  a  deer;  it  is  too  late  now  to 
go  after  it,  and  to-morrow  is  the  day  of  the  Great  Spirit 
(Sunday);  would  you  permit  me.  Black-robe,  to  bring  it 
home  to-morrow,  because  my  little  children  are  fasting?" 
Admirable  lesson  for  the  Christians  of  Europe!  This  sav- 
age had  never  seen  a  priest  but  once  in  his  Hfe.  Another 
made  me  a  present  of  a  goose  that  he  had  killed,  a  third 
gave  me  a  little  basket  full  of  camas.  I  spent  Sunday  with 
them,  to  their  great  satisfaction. 

After  dinner  next  day  [November  15th]  we  went  on  to 
the  fort  [Colville].  There  we  passed  three  days  in  repairing 
our  saddles  and  packing  our  provisions  and  seeds.    Wher- 

recorded  of  his  noble  acts  to  those  who  were  in  need,   even  when 
they  came  to  his  country  on  missions  of  commercial  rivalry. 
^  Native  form  Snpuelish  or  Snpoiliqiq. 


WHAT    HAPPENED    TO    THE    MEAT.  357 

ever  one  finds  the  gentlemen  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Com- 
pany, one  is  sure  of  a  good  reception.  They  do  not  stop 
with  demonstrations  of  poHteness  and  afifabiHty,  they  an- 
ticipate your  wishes  in  order  to  be  of  service  to  you.  In  this 
case,  the  commandant  of  the  fort,  Mr.  Macdonald,^  a  Scot 
by  birth,  went  so  far  as  to  have  his  lady  prepare  and  put 
among  our  provisions,  without  my  knowledge,  all  sorts  of 
little  extras,  such  as  sugar,  coffee,  tea,  chocolate,  butter, 
crackers,  flour,  poultry,  ham  and  candles. 

Besides  the  instruction  that  I  gave  during  mass  to  the 
Canadians  employed  at  the  fort,  I  had  several  conferences 
with  the  chief  of  the  Skoyelpi  or  Kettle  Indians,  an  intelli- 
gent man,  who  invited  me  to  come  and  evangehze  his  na- 
tion. We  left  the  fort  on  the  i8th.  Nothing  very  note- 
worthy happened  during  the  return  journey,  unless  it  be 
a  matter,  which  I  will  set  down  for  the  instruction  of  any 
who  might  be  going  our  way;  it  only  shows  how  useful  it 
is  sometimes  to  be  distrustful,  and  that  children  of  Eve 
are  to  be  found  everywhere.  We  had  left  with  the  Pend 
d'Oreilles  five  bales  of  dried  meat.  On  our  return  we 
found  only  two;  I  asked  the  chief  what  had  become  of  the 
others.  "I  am  ashamed.  Black-robe,"  he  answered;  "I 
am  afraid  to  speak  to  you.  You  know  that  I  was  absent 
when  you  left  your  bales  in  my  lodge.  My  wife  opened 
them  to  see  whether  the  meat  had  molded;  the  depouilles 
(that  is,  the  fat)  looked  so  fair  and  so  good  that  she  tasted. 
When  I  came  in,  she  offered  me  thereof,  and  to  our  chil- 
dren as  well;  the  news  was  spread  through  the  village; 
the  neighbors  came,  and  we  all  ate  together."  A  few  days 
more,  and  we  would  have  found  none  at  all.  If  this  honest 
man  had  tried  to  imitate  the  history  of  our  first  parents, 
he  could  not  have  played  his  part  better.     This  adventure 

^  Archibald  Macdonald,  for  twenty  years  previous  to  this  time  in  the 
service  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company;  founder  of  Fort  Nisqually;  en- 
trusted with  many  important  positions.  In  1828  he  accompanied  George 
Simpson  (later  Sir  George)  on  his  tour  of  inspection,  and  afterward 
published  a  journal  of  the  voyage. 


358  STORMY  BLASTS  OF  HELL. 

gave  me  my  occasion  to  instruct  them  in  regard  to  this  first 
of  prevarications  and  its  sad  consequences.  When  I  had 
finished  the  chief  spoke  again,  and  after  scolding  his  wife 
well  he  protested  in  the  name  of  all  concerned  that  it  would 
not  happen  again.  Then  these  poor  people  tried  as  best 
they  could  to  indemnify  us,  and  offered  us  two  bags  of  wild 
roots  and  a  basket  full  of  cakes  of  pine-moss,  as  hard  as 
glue.  Necessity  compelled  us  to  accept  these  novel  cakes; 
they  are  prepared  by  boiling  in  water;  they  then  form  a 
thick  elastic  soup,  having  the  appearance  and  the  taste  of 
soap.  It  can  be  eaten,  if  seasoned  with  a  good  appetite 
and  a  prolonged  absence  of  other  nourishment. 

On  the  ist  of  December  I  found  myself  again  in  Horse 
Prairie,  among  the  Kalispels,  who  had  repaired  thither 
from  different  parts  of  the  mountains  to  see  me  as  I  re- 
turned. I  stayed  with  them  three  days,  instructing  and 
exhorting  them  from  morning  till  evening.  My  ten  young 
Flatheads  all  assumed  the  functions  of  catechists,  and  went 
about  it  with  a  zeal  which  could  be  equaled  only  by  the 
assiduity,  attention  and  eagerness  to  learn  of  the  savages 
who  listened  to  them.  On  the  3d,  the  feast  of  St.  Francis 
Xavier,  I  baptized  sixty  persons  in  this  place,  of  whom 
thirteen  were  adults.  The  night  preceding  had  been  very 
stormy,  as  if  hell  had  been  unchained  against  us.  A  ter- 
rible gust  of  wind  carried  my  tent  away  and  cast  it  into  the 
branches  of  a  great  pine.  As  I  could  not  replace  it,  I  found 
myself  exposed  for  the  rest  of  the  night  to  hail,  snow  and 
rain;  but  there  is  a  remedy  for  every  evil;  I  found  one  un- 
der a  thick  buffalo  robe,  where  I  passed  the  time  that  was 
left  me  for  sleep  agreeably  enough. 

On  the  8th  we  reached  once  more  our  little  establish- 
ment of  St.  Mary's,  amid  shooting  and  shouting  from  our 
good  Indians  running  to  meet  us. 


CHAPTER  IX} 

AFFAIRS  AT  ST.    MARY's    1 84 1-2. 

Miraculous  apparition  to  Flathead  youth  on  Christmas  eve —  Point's 
hardships  on  the  buffalo  hunt  —  Visitors  from  the  Blackfeet  —  Fame  of 
the  Flatheads  growing  —  Their  modesty. 


/^N  my  return,  the  8th  of  December,  I  continued  in- 
^^  structing  those  of  the  Flatheads  who  had  not  been 
baptized.  On  Christmas  day  I  added  150  new  baptisms 
to  those  of  the  3d  of  December,  and  thirty-two  rehabilita- 
tions of  marriage;  so  that  the  Flatheads,  some  sooner  and 
others  later,  but  all,  with  very  few  exceptions,  had,  in  the 
space  of  three  months,  complied  with  everything  neces- 
sary to  merit  the  glorious  title  of  true  children  of  God. 
Accordingly  on  Christmas  eve,  a  few  hours  before  the 
midnight  mass,  the  village  of  St.  Mary  was  deemed  worthy 
of  a  special  mark  of  heaven's  favor.  The  Blessed  Virgin 
appeared  to  a  little  orphan  boy  named  Paul,  in  the  hut 
of  an  aged  and  truly  pious  woman.  The  youth,  piety  and 
sincerity  of  this  child,  joined  to  the  nature  of  the  fact  which 
he  related,  forbade  us  to  doubt  the  truth  of  his  statement. 
The  following  is  what  he  recounted  to  me  with  his  own 
innocent  lips:  "  Upon  entering  John's  hut,  whither  I  had 
gone  to  learn  my  prayers,  which  I  did  not  know,  I  saw 
some  one  who  was  very  beautiful  —  her  feet  did  not  touch 
the  earth,  her  garments  were  as  white  as  snow;  she  had  a 
star  over  her  head,  a  serpent  under  her  feet;  and  near  the 
serpent  was  a  fruit  which  I  did  not  recognize.  I  could 
see  her  heart,  from  which  rays  of  light  burst  forth  and 

1  This  chapter  and  that  following  are  taken  from  Book  II  of  the 
Letters  and  Sketches,  purporting  to  have  been  written  to  a  Father  of 
the  Society  from  the  Madison  Forks,  August  15,  1842. 

[359] 


360  MIRACLES   AND    BUFFALO    HUNTS. 

shone  upon  me.  When  I  first  beheld  all  this  I  was  fright- 
ened, but  afterward  my  fear  left  me;  my  heart  was 
warmed,  my  mind  clear,  and  I  do  not  know  how  it  hap- 
pened, but  all  at  once  I  knew  my  prayers."  (To  be  brief 
I  omit  several  circumstances.)  He  ended  his  account  by 
saying  that  several  times  the  same  person  had  appeared  to 
him  whilst  he  was  sleeping;  and  that  once  she  had  told 
him  she  was  pleased  that  the  first  village  of  the  Flatheads 
should  be  called  "'  St.  Mary."  The  child  had  never  seen 
or  heard  before  anything  of  the  kind;  he  did  not  even 
know  if  the  person  was  a  man  or  woman,  because  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  dress  which  she  wore  was  entirely  un- 
known to  him.  Several  persons  having  interrogated  the 
child  on  this  subject,  have  found  him  unvarying  in  his 
answers.  He  continues  by  his  conduct  to  be  the  angel  of 
his  tribe. 

On  the  23d  of  December,  Father  Point,  at  the  head  of 
the  inhabitants  of  forty  lodges,  started  for  the  buffalo 
hunt.^     On  the  road  they  met  with  huntsmen  of  five  or  six 

2 "  The  plan  of  accompanying  the  Indians  on  these  long  hunting 
excursions  had  seemed  advisable  to  the  Fathers  at  first,  and  was 
adopted  by  them  a  few  times  at  the  beginning  of  the  missions.  The 
object  the  missionaries  had  in  view,  was  that  the  Indians  might  not 
be  left  so  long  a  time  without  instruction  and  the  comforts  of  religion; 
that  assistance  be  rendered  to  such  as  might  fall  sick  and  die  during 
the  hunt;  also,  that  the  presence  and  influence  of  the  Black-robe 
among  them  might  restrain  the  Indians  from  the  disorders  and  ex- 
cesses, of  which  the  great  hunts  were  always  the  cause  or  the  occasion. 
All  good  and  solid  reasons. 

"  But,  notwithstanding,  the  position  in  which  the  missionary  was 
here  placed  was  a  most  delicate  one.  The  buffalo  plains  were  not 
only  the  common  hunting-grounds  of  many  hostile  tribes,  but  their 
ordinary  battle-fields,  and  the  presence  of  the  Father  with  any  one 
tribe  under  these  circumstances,  was  very  apt  to  commit  him  alike  to 
the  friendly  and  the  hostile,  greatly  to  the  detriment  of  his  authority 
and  efficiency  in  promoting  the  spiritual  welfare  of  the  Indians :  to 
the  hostile,  since  from  the  fact  of  his  being  in  the  enemy's  camp,  he 
would  naturally  be  looked  upon  as  being  in  league  with  the  enemy. 
On  the  other  hand,  in  the  case  of  prisoners,  his  advice  to  the  Indians 


HARDSHIPS  OF  THE  CHASE.  361 

different  tribes,  some  of  whom  followed  him  to  the  ter- 
mination of  the  chase,  from  the  desire  of  learning  their 
prayers.  The  Flatheads  having  prolonged  their  stay  at 
St.  Mary's  as  long  as  they  possibly  could,  so  as  not  to  de- 
part without  receiving  baptism,  experienced  such  a  famine, 
the  first  weeks  of  January,  that  their  poor  dogs,  having  not 
even  a  bone  to  gnaw,  devoured  the  very  straps  of  leather 
with  which  they  tied  their  horses  during  the  night.  The 
cold  moreover  was  so  uninterruptedly  severe  that  during 
the  hunting  season,  which  lasted  three  months,  such  a  quan- 
tity of  snow  fell  that  many  were  attacked  with  a  painful 
blindness,  vulgarly  called  "  snow  disease."  One  day  when 
the  wind  was  very  high,  and  the  snow  falling  and  freez- 
ing harder  than  usual,  Father  Point  became  suddenly  very 
pale,  and  would  no  doubt  have  been  frozen  to  death  in 
the  midst  of  the  plain,  had  not  some  travelers,  perceiv- 
ing the  change  in  his  countenance,  kindled  a  large  fire. 
But  neither  wind,  ice,  nor  famine  prevented  the  zealous 
Flatheads  from  performing  on  this  journey  all  they  were 
accustomed  to  do  at  St.  Mary's.  Every  morning  and 
evening  they  assembled  around  the  missionary's  lodge,  and 
more  than  three-fourths  of  them  without  any  shelter  but 
the  sky,  after  having  recited  their  prayers,  listened  to  an 
instruction,  preceded  and  followed  by  hymns.  At  day- 
break and  sunset  the  bell  was  tolled  three  times  for  the 
Angelical  Salutation.  The  Sunday  was  religiously  kept; 
an  observance  which  was  so  acceptable  to  God,  that  once 
especially  it  was  recompensed  in  a  very  visible  manner. 

whom  he  was  accompanying  would  always  be,  as  a  matter  of  course, 
for  lenity  and  mercy.  But  lenity  and  mercy  were  seldom,  if  ever, 
practiced  by  the  natives  toward  an  enemy  captured  in  war.  The 
Father  was,  therefore,  liable  to  be  suspected  even  by  these,  and  thus 
his  efficiency  among  them  would  be  impaired.  *  *  *  Further,  it 
was  not  long  before  the  Fathers  found  out  by  their  own  experience 
that  the  Indians,  whilst  on  the  great  hunts,  were  a  prey  to  the  wildest 
excitement,  which  left  little,  if  any,  room  for  religious  instruction. 
The  plan  of  accompanying  them  on  their  buffalo  hunts  was,  therefore, 
very  soon  after  abandoned." — Palladino. 


362  MIRACULOUS  DRAFT   OF   BUFFALO. 

The  following  is  what  I  read  in  the  Journal  kept  by  Father 
Point  during  the  winter's  hunt. 

''Sixth  February. —  To-day,  Sunday,  a  very  high  wind, 
the  sky  greyish,  and  the  thermometer  at  the  freezing  point ; 
no  grass  for  the  horses ;  the  buffaloes  driven  off  by  the  Nez 
Perces.  The  7th,  the  cold  more  piercing  —  food  for  our 
horses  still  scarcer  —  the  snow  increasing;  but  yesterday 
was  a  time  of  perfect  rest,  and  the  fruits  of  it  show  them- 
selves to-day  in  perfect  resignation  and  confidence.  At 
noon  we  reach  the  summit  of  a  mountain,  and  what  a  change 
awaits  us.  The  sun  shines,  the  cold  has  lost  its  intensity; 
we  have  in  view  an  immense  plain,  and  in  that  plain  good 
pasturages,  which  are  clouded  with  buffaloes.  The  en- 
campment stops,  the  hunters  assemble,  and  before  sunset 
155  buffaloes  have  fallen  by  their  arrows.  One  must  con- 
fess that  if  this  hunt  were  not  miraculous,  it  bears  a  great 
resemblance  to  the  draught  of  fishes  made  by  Peter  when 
casting  his  net  at  the  word  of  the  Lord,  he  drew  up  153 
fishes. —  St.  John,  xxi.  11.  The  Flatheads  confided  in  the 
Lord,  and  were  equally  successful  in  killing  153  buffaloes. 
What  a  fine  draught  of  fishes!  but  what  a  glorious  hunt 
of  buffaloes!  Represent  to  yourself  an  immense  amphi- 
theatre of  mountains,  the  least  of  which  exceeds  in  height 
Montmartre,  and  in  the  midst  of  this  majestic  enclosure  a 
plain  more  extensive  than  that  of  Paris,  and  on  this  mag- 
nificent plain  a  multitude  of  animals,  the  least  of  which 
surpasses  in  size  the  largest  ox  in  Europe.  Such  was  the 
park  in  which  our  Indians  hunted. 

"  Wishing  to  pursue  them,"  continues  Father  Point,  in 
his  journal,  "  I  urged  on  my  horse  to  a  herd  of  fugitives, 
and  as  he  was  fresh,  I  had  no  difficulty  in  getting  up  to  them. 
I  even  succeeded  in  compelling  the  foremost  to  abandon 
his  post,  but  enraged,  he  stopped  short,  and  presented  such 
a  terrible  front,  that  I  thought  it  more  prudent  to  open  a 
passage  and  let  him  escape.  I  acted  wisely,  as  on  the  same 
day  one  of  these  animals,  in  his  fall,  overturned  a  horse 
and  his  rider.      Fortunately,  however,  the  latter  was  more 


SKILFUL  HORSESTEALING  OF  THE  BLACKFEET.         363 

dexterous  than  I  should  have  been  in  such  a  perilous  situa- 
tion; he  aimed  his  blows  so  promptly  and  well,  that  of  the 
three  who  were  thrown,  only  two  arose.  On  another  occa- 
sion, a  hunter  who  had  been  also  dismounted,  had  no  other 
means  to  avoid  being  torn  to  pieces  than  to  seize  the  ani- 
mal by  the  horns  just  at  the  time  he  was  about  to  trample 
him  to  death.  A  third  hunter,  fleeing  at  all  speed,  felt 
himself  stopped  by  th§  plaited  tail  of  his  horse  hooked  on 
the  buffalo's  horn ;  but  both,  fearing  a  trap,  made  every 
effort  to  disengage  themselves." 

The  buffalo  hunt  is  attended  with  dangers,  but  the  great- 
est of  these  does  not  consist  in  the  mere  pursuit  of  the  ani- 
mal, but  proceeds  rather  from  the  bands  of  Blackfeet  who 
constantly  lurk  in  these  regions,  especially  when  there  is 
some  prospect  of  meeting  with  the  larger  game,  or  steal- 
ing a  number  of  horses.  Of  all  the  mountain  savages  the 
Blackfeet  are  the  most  numerous  and  wicked  and  the  great- 
est thieves.  Happily,  however,  from  having  been  often 
beaten  by  the  smaller  tribes,  they  have  become  so  dastardly, 
that  unless  they  are  twenty  to  one  they  confine  their  at- 
tacks to  the  horses,  which,  thanks  to  the  carelessness  of 
their  courageous  enemies,  they  go  about  with  so  much 
dexterity  and  success,  that  this  year,  while  our  good  Flat- 
heads  v^rere  asleep,  they  discovered  their  animals  as  often 
as  twenty  times,  and  carried  off  more  than  lOO  of  them. 

During  the  winter,  about  twenty  of  these  gentlemen  vis- 
ited the  Flatheads  in  the  daytime,  and  without  stealing 
anything,  but  in  this  manner.  There  resided  in  the  camp 
an  old  chief  of  the  Blackfeet  tribe,  who  had  been  baptized 
on  Christmas  day,  and  named  Nicholas;  this  good  savage, 
knowing  that  the  missionary  would  willingly  hold  an  in- 
terview with  his  brethren,  undertook  himself  to  harangue 
them  during  the  night,  and  so  well  did  he  acquit  himself, 
that  upon  the  calumet's  being  planted  on  the  limits  of  the 
camp,  and  the  messenger  being  admitted  to  an  audience, 
singing  was  heard  in  the  neighboring  mountains,  and  soon 
after  a  band  of  these  brigands  issued,  armed  as  warriors, 


364  AN  IMPRESSION    MADE. 

from  the  gloomy  defile.  They  were  received  as  friends, 
and  four  of  the  principals  were  ushered  into  the  missionary's 
lodge;  they  smoked  the  calumet  and  discussed  the  news  of 
the  day.  The  missionary  spoke  of  the  necessity  of  prayer, 
to  which  subject  they  listened  most  attentively;  nor  did 
they  manifest  either  surprise  or  repugnance.  They  told 
him  that  there  had  arrived  recently  in  one  of  their  forests 
a  man  who  was  not  married,  and  who  wore  on  his  breast 
a  large  crucifix,  read  every  day  in  a  big  book,  and  made 
the  sign  of  the  cross  before  eating  anything;  and  in  fine, 
that  he  was  dressed  exactly  like  the  Black-robes  at  St, 
Mary's.®  The  Father  did  everything  in  his  power  to  gain 
their  good  will  —  after  which  they  were  conducted  to  the 
best  lodge  in  the  encampment.  It  certainly  would  seem 
that  such  hosts  were  worthy  of  better  guests.  However, 
toward  the  middle  of  the  night,  the  explosion  of  fire-arms 
was  heard.  It  was  soon  discovered  that  a  Flathead  was 
firing  at  a  Blackfoot,  just  as  the  latter  was  leaving  the 
camp,  taking  with  him  four  horses.  Fortunately,  the  rob- 
ber was  not  one  of  the  band  that  had  been  received  within 
the  encampment,  which,  upon  being  proved,  far  from  creat- 
ing any  suspicion,  on  the  contrary,  had  the  effect  of  their 
kindly  offering  them  a  grave  for  the  unfortunate  man. 
But  whether  they  wished  to  appear  to  disapprove  of  the 
deed,  or  that  they  anticipated  dangers  from  reprisals,  they 
left  the  wolves  to  bury  the  body,  and  took  their  departure. 
Good  Nicholas,  the  orator,  joined  them,  in  order  to  render 
the  same  services  to  the  others  that  he  had  to  these.  He 
went  off,  promising  to  return  soon  with  the  evidences  of 
his  success.  He  has  not  been  seen  as  yet,  but  we  are  in- 
formed that  he  and  his  companions  have  spoken  so  favor- 
ably of  prayer  and  the  Black-robes,  that  already  the  Sunday 
is  religiously  observed  in  the  camp  where  Nicholas  resides, 
and  that  a  great  chief,  with  the  people  of  sixty  lodges, 
intend  shortly  to  make  our  acquaintance  and  attach  them- 
selves to  the  Flatheads. 

8  Probably  Father  Demers  visiting  the  posts. 


BLACKFEET  STAND  NO  SHOW.  365 

In  the  meanwhile  divine  justice  is  punishing  rigorously 
a  number  of  their  robbers.  This  year  the  Nez  Perces  caught 
twelve  of  them  in  flagrant  faults,  and  killed  them. 
About  the  time  that  the  Blackfoot  above  mentioned  met  his 
fate  at  the  hands  of  a  Flathead,  thirty  others  were  receiving 
the  reward  due  to  their  crimes,  from  the  Pend-d'Oreille 
tribe.  A  very  remarkable  fact  in  this  last  encounter  is  that 
of  the  four  who  commenced,  and  the  others  who  finished  it, 
not  one  fell;  although,  in  order  to  break  in  on  the  delin- 
quents, who  were  intrenched  behind  a  kind  of  rampart,  they 
were  obliged  to  expose  themselves  to  a  brisk  fire.  I  saw  the 
field  of  combat  some  time  afterward.  Of  the  thirty  rob- 
bers who  had  been  slain,  only  five  or  six  heads  remained, 
and  those  so  disfigured  as  to  lead  one  to  think  that  an  age 
had  already  elapsed  since  their  death. 

Two  years  before,  the  same  tribe  (Pend-d'Oreilles),  as- 
sisted by  the  Flatheads,  making  in  all  a  band  of  seventy 
men,  stood  an  attack  of  1,500  Blackfeet,  whom  they  de- 
feated, killing  in  five  days,  during  which  time  the  battle 
lasted,  fifty  of  their  foes,  without  losing  a  single  man  on 
their  side.  They  would  not  commence  the  attack  until 
they  had  recited  their  prayers  on  their  knees.  A  few  days 
ago,  the  spot  was  pointed  out  to  me  where  six  Flatheads 
withstood  160  Blackfeet  with  so  much  resolution,  that  with 
a  handful  of  their  men  who  came  to  their  aid,  they  gained 
the  victory. 

The  most  perfidious  nation,  after  the  Blackfeet,  is  the 
Bannock  tribe;  they  also  bear  the  Flatheads  much  ill  will. 
It  has  happened  more  than  once  that  at  the  very  moment 
the  Bannock  tribe  were  receiving  the  greatest  proofs  of 
friendship  from  the  Flatheads,  the  former  were  plotting 
their  ruin.  Of  this  you  have  already  had  one  proof,  but 
here  is  another.  One  day  a  detachment  of  200  Bannocks 
visited  the  camp  of  the  Flatheads,  and  after  smoking  with 
them  returned  to  their  encampment.  The  small  number 
of  the  Flatheads  had  not,  however,  escaped  their  notice, 
and  they  determined  to  take  advantage  of  their  apparent 


366  VICTORIES    TOO   COSTLY. 

weakness.  Accordingly,  they  retraced  their  steps  that  very 
night  to  execute  their  base  designs.  But  the  chief,  named 
Michael,  having  been  advised  of  their  intention,  assembled 
in  haste  his  twenty  warriors,  and  after  entreating  them  to 
confide  in  God,  he  rushed  on  these  traitors  so  happily  and 
vigorously  that  at  the  first  shock  they  were  routed.  Already 
nine  of  the  fugitives  had  fallen,  and  most  of  the  others 
would  have  shared  the  same  fate  if  Michael,  in  the  very 
heat  of  the  pursuit,  had  not  recollected  that  it  was  Sun- 
day, and  on  that  account  stopped  his  brave  companions, 
saying:  "My  friends,  it  is  now  the  time  for  prayer; 
we  must  retire  to  our  camp." 

It  is  by  these  and  similar  exploits,  wherein  the  finger  of 
God  is  visible,  that  the  Flatheads  have  acquired  such  a 
reputation  for  valor,  that  notwithstanding  their  inferior 
numbers,  they  are  feared  much  more  than  they  on  their  side 
dread  their  bitterest  enemies.  These  victories,  however, 
cannot  but  be  fatal  even  to  the  conquerors;  hence  we  will 
strive  to  inspire  all  with  the  love  of  peace,  which  may  be 
accomplished  if  each  party  remains  at  home.  For  this  pur- 
pose we  must  create  among  them  a  greater  taste  for  agri- 
culture than  for  hunting.  But  how  can  we  compass  this 
unless  the  same  measures  are  employed  for  the  missions 
of  the  Rocky  Mountains  that  were  so  happily  adopted  for 
Paraguay?  If  the  true  friends  of  religion  only  knew  of 
what  the  Indians  who  surround  us  are  capable  when  once 
converted,  I  cannot  doubt  but  that  they  would  assist  us  in 
our  efforts  to  accomplish  so  beautiful,  so  advantageous  a 
project.  It  is,  moreover,  through  the  Iroquois  of  the 
North,  whose  cruelty  formerly  exceeded  that  of  the  Black- 
feet,  that  the  knowledge  of  the  true  God  came  to  the  Flat- 
heads,  and  awakened  amongst  them  the  desire  of  possessing 
the  Black-gowns.  We  have  seen  to  what  dangers  the 
good  Flatheads  exposed  themselves  to  obtain  missionaries, 
and  what  sacrifices  they  have  made  to  merit  the  title  of 
children  of  God;  and  now  what  is  their  actual  progress? 
In  their  village,  enmities,  quarrels  and  calumnies  are  un- 


CONFIDENCE  IN  THE  MISSIONARIES.  367 

known;  they  are  sincere  and  upright  amongst  themselves, 
and  full  of  confidence  in  their  missionaries.  They  carry 
this  to  such  a  degree  that  they  place  implicit  reliance  on 
their  veracity,  and  cannot  suppose  that  they  have  anything 
else  in  view  but  their  happiness;  they  have  no  difficulty  in 
believing  the  mysteries  of  our  faith,  or  in  approaching  the 
tribunal  of  penance :  difficulties  which  appear  insurmount- 
able to  the  pride  and  cowardice  of  many  civilized  Christians. 
The  first  time  they  were  asked  if  they  believed  firmly  m 
all  that  was  contained  in  the  Apostles'  Creed,  they  answered, 
"  Yes  —  very  much."  When  they  were  spoken  to  about 
confession,  some  wished  it  to  be  public. 

This  will  explain  to  you  how  it  happened  that  before  we 
resided  three  months  amongst  them  we  were  enabled  to 
baptize  all  the  adults,  and  four  months  later  to  admit  a 
large  number  to  frequent  communion.  There  are  whole 
families  who  never  let  a  Sunday  go  by  without  approach- 
ing the  holy  table.  Often  twenty  confessions  are  heard 
consecutively  without  there  being  matter  for  absolution. 
This  year  we  performed  the  devotion  of  the  month  of  Mary, 
and  I  can  flatter  myself  that  the  exercises  were  attended 
with  as  much  piety  and  edification  as  in  the  most  devout 
parishes  of  Europe.  At  the  end  of  the  month  a  statue 
was  borne  in  triumph  to  the  very  place  where  our  Blessed 
Mother  deigned  to  honor  us  with  the  aforementioned  ap- 
parition. Since  that  day  a  sort  of  pilgrimage  has  been 
established  there,  under  the  name  of  "  Our  Lady  of  Prayer." 
None  pass  the  pious  monument  without  stopping  to  pray  on 
their  knees ;  the  more  devout  come  regularly  twice  a  day  to 
speak  to  their  Mother  and  her  divine  Son,  and  the  children 
add  to  their  prayers  the  most  beautiful  flowers  they  can 
cull  in  the  prairies. 

On  the  feast  of  the  Sacred  Heart  we  made  use  of  this 
monument,  decorated  with  garlands  of  flowers,  as  a  reposi- 
tory, and  our  people  received  for  the  first  time  the  bene- 
diction of  the  blessed  sacrament;  a  happiness  which  they 
now  enjoy  every  Sunday  after  vespers.      Some  of  them 


368  PREFERMENT    THROUGH    MERIT. 

already  understand  the  nature  of  the  devotion  of  the  Sacred 
Heart.  To  propagate  it  we  have  laid  the  foundations  of 
several  societies,  of  which  all  the  most  virtuous  men,  wo- 
men and  young  people  have  become  members.  Victor,  the 
great  chief,  is  prefect  of  one  of  these  associations,  and 
Agnes,  his  wife,  is  president  of  another.  They  were  not 
elected  through  any  deference  for  their  dignity  or  birth, 
but  solely  on  account  of  their  great  personal  merits.  A 
fact  which  proves  that  the  Flatheads  regard  merit  more 
than  rank  is,  that  the  place  of  great  chief  becoming  vacant 
by  the  death  of  Peter,  they  chose  for  his  successor  the  chief 
of  the  men's  society,  and  for  no  other  reason  did  he  obtain 
this  high  dignity  than  for  the  noble  qualities,  both  of  heart 
and  head,  which  they  all  thought  he  possessed.  Every 
night  and  morning,  when  all  is  quiet  in  the  camp,  he 
harangues  the  people;  the  subject  of  his  discourse  being 
principally  a  repetition  of  what  the  Black-robes  have  said 
before.  This  good  chief  walks  faithfully  in  the  footsteps 
of  his  predecessor,  which  is  no  slight  praise.  This  last, 
who  was  baptized  at  the  age  of  eighty,  and  admitted  to 
communion  in  his  eighty-second  year,  was  the  first  to  de- 
serve this  double  favor,  more  on  account  of  his  virtue  than 
his  years.  The  day  of  his  baptism  he  said  to  me,  "  If  dur- 
ing my  life  I  have  committed  faults  they  were  those  of  ig- 
norance ;  it  appears  to  me  that  I  never  did  anything,  know- 
ing it  to  be  wrong."  At  the  time  of  his  first  communion, 
which  preceded  his  death  but  a  few  days,  having  been  asked 
if  he  had  not  some  faults  with  which  to  reproach  himself 
since  his  baptism  — "  Faults,"  he  replied,  with  surprise, 
"  how  could  I  ever  commit  any,  I  whose  duty  it  is  to  teach 
others  how  to  do  good  ?  "  He  was  buried  in  the  red  drapery 
he  was  accustomed  to  hang  out  on  Sunday  to  announce 
that  it  was  the  day  of  the  Lord.  Alphonsus  in  the  prime 
of  youth  soon  followed  him.  He  said  to  me  on  the  day 
of  his  baptism :  "  I  dread  so  much  offending  again  the 
Great  Spirit,  that  I  beg  of  him  to  grant  me  the  grace  to  die 


I 


THE  DEATH  OF  THE  RIGHTEOUS.  369 

soon."  He  fell  sick  a  few  days  afterward  and  expired 
with  the  most  Christian  dispositions,  thanking  God  for  hav- 
ing granted  his  prayer.  In  the  hope  of  their  glorious  resur- 
rection, their  mortal  remains  have  been  deposited  at  the  foot 
of  the  large  cross. 

Of  twenty  persons  who  died  within  the  year,  we  have 
no  reason  to  fear  for  the  salvation  of  one. 
24 


'  CHAPTER  X. 

JOURNEY   TO   VANCOUVER   AND   THE   WILLAMETTE   AND   RE- 
TURN    1842. 

Start  for  Fort  Vancouver — Visit  to  the  Kalispels  and  Kootenais  — 
Digestive  feats  of  the  natives  —  Beginning  of  work  among  the  Coeur 
d'Alenes  —  Their  territory — The  Cabinets  —  Protestant  missionaries' 
methods  —  Iconoclast  Parker  —  Visit  to  the  Skoyelpi  and  Okinagans  — 
Accident  to  interpreter  Charles  —  Down  Columbia  in  Ogden's  barge  — 
Boat  crew  drowned  —  Meets  Blanchet  and  Demers  at  Vancouver  — 
Kindness  of  Dr.  McLoughlin  —  Mortality  among  inhabitants  —  Across 
country  from  Walla  Walla  —  Follows  Flatheads  after  buffalo  —  De- 
cides to  return  to  States. 


•IK|  OT  having  been  able  this  year  to  obtain  either  provi- 
"  *  sions  or  sufficient  clothes  to  supply  the  wants  of  our 
mission,  I  started  (April  13th)  for  Fort  Vancouver,  the 
great  mart  of  the  honorable  Hudson  Bay  Company,  and  dis- 
tant about  a  thousand  miles  from  our  establishment.  The 
continuation  of  this  narrative  will  show  you  that  this  neces- 
sary journey  was  providential.  I  found  myself  during  this 
trip  a  second  time  amongst  the  Kalispel  tribe. 

They  continue  with  much  fervor  to  assemble  every  morn- 
ing and  evening  to  recite  prayers  in  common,  and  manifest 
the  same  attention  and  assiduity  in  listening  to  our  in- 
structions. The  chiefs  on  their  side  are  incessant  in  exhort- 
ing the  people  to  the  practice  of  every  good  work.  The 
two  principal  obstacles  that  prevent  a  great  number  from 
receiving  baptism  are  —  first,  the  plurality  of  wives ;  many 
have  not  the  courage  to  separate  themselves  from  those  by 
whom  they  have  children.  The  second  is  their  fondness 
for  gambling,  in  which  they  risk  everything.  I  baptized 
sixty  adults  amongst  them  during  this  last  journey. 

Crossing  a  beautiful  plain  near  the  Clark  or  Flathead 

[370] 


LIZETTE  TAKEN  BY  SURPRISE.  37 1 

river,  called  the  Horse  Prairie.  I  heard  that  there  were  thirty 
lodges  of  the  Skalzi  or  Kootenai  tribe  at  about  two  days' 
journey  from  us.  I  determined  whilst  awaiting  the  descent 
of  the  skiff,  which  could  only  start  six  days  later,  to  pay 
them  a  visit,  for  they  had  never  seen  a  priest  in  their  lands 
before.  Two  half-breeds  served  as  my  guides  and  escorts 
on  this  occasion.  We  galloped  and  trotted  all  the  day, 
traveling  a  distance  of  sixty  miles.  We  spent  a  quiet  night 
in  a  deep  defile,  stretched  near  a  good  fire,  but  in  the  open 
air. 

The  next  day  (April  14th),  after  having  traversed  several 
mountains  and  valleys,  where  our  horses  were  up  to  their 
knees  in  snow,  we  arrived  about  three  o'clock  in  sight  of  the 
Kootenai  camp.  They  assembled  immediately  on  my  ap- 
proach ;  w^hen  I  was  about  twenty  yards  from  them  the 
warriors  presented  their  arms,  which  they  had  hidden  until 
then  under  their  buffalo  robes.  They  fired  a  general  salute, 
which  frightened  my  mule  and  made  her  rear  and  prance, 
to  the  great  amusement  of  the  savages.  They  then  defiled 
before  me.  giving  their  hands  in  token  of  friendship  and 
congratulation.  I  observed  that  each  one  lifted  his  hand 
to  his  forehead  after  having  presented  it  to  me.  I  soon  con- 
voked the  council  in  order  to  inform  them  of  the  object  of 
my  visit.  They  unanimously  declared  themselves  in  favor 
of  my  religion,  and  adopted  the  beautiful  custom  of  their 
neighbors,  the  Flatheads,  to  meet  night  and  morning  for 
prayers  in  common.  I  assembled  them  that  very  evening 
for  this  object  and  gave  them  a  long  instruction  on  the 
principal  dogmas  of  our  faith.  The  next  day  I  baptized 
all  their  little  children  and  nine  of  their  adults,  previously 
instructed,  amongst  whom  was  the  wife  of  an  Iroquois, 
who  had  resided  for  thirty  years  with  this  tribe.  The  Iro- 
quois and  a  Canadian  occupy  themselves  in  the  absence  of 
a  priest  in  instructing  them. 

My  visit  could  not  be  long;  I  left  the  Kootenai  village 
about  twelve  o'clock,  accompanied  by  twelve  of  these  war- 
riors and  some  half-blood  Crees,  whom  I  had  baptized  in 


372  A    FEAST    OR   A    FAMINE. 

1840.  They  wished  to  escort  me  to  the  entrance  of  the 
large  Flathead  lake,  with  the  desire  of  giving  me  a  fare- 
well feast;  a  real  banquet  of  all  the  good  things  their 
country  produced.  The  warriors  had  gone  on  ahead  and 
dispersed  in  every  direction,  some  to  hunt  and  others  to  fish. 
The  latter  only  succeeded  in  catching  a  single  trout.  The 
warriors  returned  in  the  evening  with  a  bear,  goose  and 
six  swan's  eggs.  "Sed  quid  hoc  inter  tantos?  "  The  fish 
and  goose  were  roasted  before  a  good  fire,  and  the  whole 
mess  was  soon  presented  to  me.  Most  of  my  companions 
preferring  to  fast,  I  expressed  my  regret  at  it,  consoling 
them,  however,  by  telling  them  that  God  would  certainly 
reward  their  kindness  to  me.  A  moment  after  we  heard 
the  last  hunter  returning,  who  we  thought  had  gone  back 
to  the  camp.  Hope  shone  on  every  countenance.  The 
warrior  soon  appeared  laden  with  a  large  elk,  and  hunger 
that  night  was  banished  from  the  camp.  Each  one  began 
to  occupy  himself;  some  cut  up  the  animal,  others  heaped 
fuel  on  the  fire  and  prepared  sticks  and  spits  to  roast  the 
meat.  The  feast  which  had  commenced  under  such  poor 
auspices  continued  a  great  part  of  the  night.  The  whole 
animal,  excepting  a  small  piece  that  was  reserved  for  my 
breakfast,  had  disappeared  before  they  retired  to  sleep. 
This  is  a  sample  of  savage  life.  The  Indian  when  he  has 
nothing  to  eat  does  not  complain,  but  in  the  midst  of  abun- 
dance he  knows  no  moderation.  The  stomach  of  a  savage 
has  always  been  a  riddle  to  me. 

The  plain  that  commands  a  view  of  the  lake  is  one  of  the 
most  fertile  in  the  mountainous  regions.  The  Flathead 
river  runs  through  it  and  extends  more  than  200  miles  to 
the  northeast.  It  is  wide  and  deep,  abounding  with  fish 
and  lined  with  wood,  principally  with  the  cottonwood, 
aspen,  pine  and  birch.  There  are  beautiful  sites  for  vil- 
lages, but  the  vicinity  of  the  Blackfeet  must  delay  for  a  long 
while  the  good  work,  as  they  are  only  at  two  days'  march 
from  the  great  district  occupied  by  these  brigands,  from 
whence  they  often  issue  to  pay  their  neighbors  predatory 


REMORSE    OF   A    KALISPEL    CHIEF.  373 

visits.  A  second  obstacle  would  be  the  great  distance  from 
any  post  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company;  consequently  the 
difficulty  of  procuring  what  is  strictly  necessary.  The  lake 
is  highly  romantic,  and  is  from  forty  to  fifty  miles  long. 
Mountainous  and  rocky  islands  of  all  sizes  are  scattered 
over  its  bosom,  which  present  an  enchanting  prospect. 
These  islands  are  filled  with  wild  horses.  Lofty  mountains 
surround  the  lake  and  rise  from  its  very  brink. 

On  the  1 6th  of  April,  after  bidding  adieu  to  my  traveling 
companions,  I  started  early  in  the  morning,  accompanied  by 
two  Canadians  and  two  savages.  That  evening  we  en- 
camped close  to  a  delightful  spring,  which  was  warm  and 
sulphurous,  having  traveled  a  distance  of  about  fifty  miles. 
When  the  savages  reach  this  spring  they  generally  bathe 
in  it.  They  told  me  that  after  the  fatigues  of  a  long  jour- 
ney they  find  that  bathing  in  this  water  greatly  refreshes 
them.  I  found  here  ten  lodges  of  the  Kalispel  tribe;  the 
chief,  who  was  by  birth  of  the  Nez  Perce  tribe,  invited  me 
to  spend  the  night  in  his  wigAvam,  where  he  treated  me 
most  hospitably.  This  was  the  only  small  Kalispel  camp 
that  I  had  as  yet  met  in  my  journeys.  I  here  established,  as 
I  have  done  wherever  I  stopped,  the  custom  of  morning  and 
evening  prayers. 

During  the  evening  the  chief,  who  had  looked  very 
gloomy,  made  a  public  exposition  of  his  whole  life.  "  Black- 
robe,"  said  he,  "  you  find  yourself  in  the  lodge  of  a  most 
wicked  and  unhappy  man ;  all  the  evil  that  a  man  could  do 
on  earth,  I  believe  I  have  been  guilty  of :  I  have  even  as- 
sassinated several  of  my  near  relations ;  since  then,  there  is 
nought  in  my  heart  but  trouble,  bitterness  and  remorse. 
Why  does  not  the  Great  Spirit  annihilate  me?  I  still  pos- 
sess life,  but  there  will  be  neither  pardon  nor  mercy  for  me 
after  death."  These  words  and  the  feeling  manner  with 
which  they  were  addressed  to  me  drew  tears  of  compassion 
from  my  eyes.  "  Poor,  unfortunate  man,"  I  replied,  "  you 
are  really  to  be  pitied,  but  you  increase  your  misery  by  think- 
ing that  you  cannot  obtain  pardon.     The  devil,  man's  evil 


374  GATHERING   OF   THE   CCEUR   d'alI:nES. 

spirit,  is  the  author  of  this  bad  thought.  Do  not  listen  to 
him,  for  he  would  wish  to  precipitate  you  into  that  bad  place 
(hell).  The  Great  Spirit  who  created  you  is  a  Father  in- 
finitely good  and  merciful.  He  does  not  desire  the  death 
of  the  sinner,  but  rather  that  he  should  be  converted  and 
live.  He  receives  us  into  his  favor  and  forgets  our  crimes, 
notwithstanding  their  number  and  enormity,  the  moment 
we  return  to  him  contrite  and  repentant.  He  will  also  for- 
give you  if  you  walk  in  the  path  which  his  only  Son,  Jesus 
Christ,  came  on  earth  to  trace  for  us." 

I  then  recounted  the  instance  of  the  good  thief  and  the 
parable  of  the  prodigal  son.  I  made  him  sensible  of  the 
proof  of  God's  goodness  in  sending  me  to  him.  I  added 
that  perhaps  his  life  was  drawing  to  a  close,  and  that  he 
might  be  in  danger  of  falling  into  the  bad  place  on  account 
of  his  sins;  that  I  would  show  him  the  right  path,  which 
if  he  followed  he  would  certainly  reach  heaven.  These  few 
words  were  as  balm  poured  on  his  wounded  spirit.  He  be- 
came calmer,  and  joy  and  hope  appeared  on  his  countenance. 
"Black-robe,"  said  he,  "your  words  reanimate  me:  I  see, 
I  understand  better  now,  you  have  consoled  me,  you  have 
relieved  me  from  a  burden  that  was  crushing  me  with  its 
weight,  for  I  thought  myself  lost.  I  will  follow  your  direc- 
tions; I  will  learn  how  to  pray.  Yes,  I  feel  convinced  that 
the  Great  Spirit  will  have  pity  on  me."  There  was  fortu- 
nately in  the  camp  a  young  man  who  knew  all  the  prayers, 
and  was  willing  to  serve  as  his  catechist.  His  baptism  was 
deferred  until  the  autumn  or  winter. 

The  results  of  my  visit  to  the  Coeur  d'Alenes  were  very 
consoling.  They  form  a  small  but  interesting  tribe,  ani- 
mated with  much  fervor.  As  soon  as  they  were  certain  of 
my  visit,  they  deputed  couriers  in  every  direction  to  inform 
the  savages  of  the  approach  of  the  Black-robe ;  and  all,  with- 
out exception,  assembled  at  the  outlet  of  the  great  lake  which 
bears  their  name,  and  which  was  the  place  I  had  indicated. 
An  ingenuous  joy,  joined  to  wonder  and  contentment,  shone 
on  every  face  when  they  saw  me  arrive  in  the  midst  of  them. 


INSTRUCTION    AND    REFRESHMENT.  375 

Every  one  hastened  to  greet  me.  It  was  the  first  visit  of 
the  kind  they  had  received,  and  the  following  is  the  order 
they  observed.  Their  chiefs  and  old  men  marched  at  the 
head;  next  came  the  young  men  and  boys;  then  followed 
the  women  —  mothers,  young  girls,  and  little  children.  I 
was  conducted  in  triumph  by  this  multitude  to  the  lodge  of 
the  great  chief.  Here,  as  everywhere  else  in  the  Indian 
country,  the  everlasting  calumet  was  first  produced,  which 
went  round  two  or  three  times  in  the  most  profound  silence. 
The  chief  then  addressed  me,  saying :  "  Black-robe,  you 
are  most  welcome  amongst  us.  We  thank  you  for  your 
charity  toward  us.  For  a  long  time  we  have  wished  to  see 
you,  and  hear  the  words  which  will  give  us  understanding. 
Our  fathers  invoked  the  sun  and  earth.  I  recollect  very  well 
when  the  knowledge  of  the  true  and  one  God  came  amongst 
them ;  since  which  time  we  have  offered  to  him  our  prayers 
and  vows.  We  are,  however,  to  be  pitied.  We  do  not 
know  the  word  of  the  Great  Spirit.  All  is  darkness  as  yet 
to  us,  but  to-day  I  hope  we  shall  see  the  light  shine.  Speak, 
Black-robe,  I  have  done  —  every  one  is  anxious  to  hear 
you." 

I  spoke  to  them  for  two  hours  on  salvation  and  the  end  of 
man's  creation,  and  not  one  person  stirred  from  his  place 
the  whole  time  of  the  instruction.  As  it  was  almost  sunset, 
I  recited  the  prayers  that  I  had  translated  into  their  language 
a  few  days  before.  After  which  I  took  some  refreshments, 
consisting  of  fragments  of  dried  meat  and  a  piece  of  cooked 
moss,  tasting  like  soap  and  as  black  as  pitch.  All  this,  how- 
ever, was  as  grateful  to  my  palate  as  though  it  had  been 
honey  and  sugar,  not  having  eaten  a  mouthful  since  day- 
break. At  their  own  request  I  then  continued  instructing  the 
chiefs  and  their  people  until  the  night  was  far  advanced. 
About  every  half  hour  I  paused,  and  then  the  pipes  would 
pass  around  to  refresh  the  listeners  and  give  time  for  re- 
flection. 

It  was  during  these  intervals  that  the  chiefs  conversed 
on  what  they  had  heard,  and  instructed  and  advised  their 


0^6  TRIANGLE  OF  INDIAN  ANGELS. 

followers.  On  awakening  the  next  morning,  I  was  sur- 
prised to  find  my  lodge  already  filled  with  people.  They 
had  entered  so  quietly  that  I  had  not  heard  them.  It  was 
hardly  daybreak  when  I  arose,  and  they  all,  following  my 
example,  placed  themselves  on  their  knees,  and  we  made 
together  the  offering  of  our  hearts  to  God,  with  that  of  the 
actions  of  the  day.  After  this  the  chief  said :  "  Black- 
gown,  we  come  here  very  early  to  observe  you  —  we  wish 
to  imitate  what  you  do.  Your  prayer  is  good ;  we  wish  to 
adopt  it.  But  you  will  leave  us  after  two  nights  more,  and 
we  have  no  one  to  teach  us  in  your  absence."  I  had  the 
bell  rung  for  morning  prayers,  promising  him  at  the  same 
time  that  the  prayers  should  be  known  before  I  left  them. 

After  a  long  instruction  on  the  most  important  truths  of 
religion,  I  collected  around  me  all  the  little  children,  with 
the  young  boys  and  girls ;  I  chose  two  from  among  the  lat- 
ter, to  whom  I  taught  the  Hail  Mary,  assigning  to  each  one 
his  own  particular  part;  then  seven  for  the  Our  Father; 
ten  others  for  the  Commandments,  and  twelve  for  the 
Apostles'  Creed.  This  method,  which  was  my  first  trial  of 
it,  succeeded  admirably.  I  repeated  to  each  one  his  part 
until  he  knew  it  perfectly;  I  then  made  him  repeat  it  five 
or  six  times.  These  little  Indians,  forming  a  triangle,  re- 
sembled a  choir  of  angels,  and  recited  their  prayers,  to 
the  great  astonishment  and  satisfaction  of  the  savages.  They 
continued  in  this  manner  morning  and  night,  until  one  of 
the  chiefs  learned  all  the  prayers,  which  he  then  repeated 
in  public. 

I  spent  three  days  in  instructing  them.  I  would  have  re- 
mained longer,  but  the  savages  were  without  provisions. 
There  was  scarcely  enough  for  one  person  in  the  whole 
camp.  My  own  provisions  were  nearly  out,  and  I  was  still 
four  days'  journey  from  Fort  Colville.  The  second  day 
of  my  stay  among  them,  I  baptized  all  their  small  children, 
and  then  twenty-four  adults,  who  were  infirm  and  very  old. 
It  appeared  as  though  God  had  retained  these  good  old 
people  on  earth  to  grant  them  the  inexpressible  happiness 


THE    CCEUR    d'al£nE    ESTABLISHMENT.  377 

of  receiving  the  sacrament  of  baptism  before  their  death. 
They  seemed  by  their  transports  of  joy  and  gratitude  at 
this  moment,  to  express  that  sentiment  of  the  scripture : 
**  My  soul  is  ready,  O  God,  my  soul  is  ready."  Never  did 
I  experience  in  my  visits  to  the  savages  so  much  satisfac- 
tion as  on  this  occasion,  not  even  when  I  visited  the  Flat- 
heads  in  1840;  nor  have  I  elsewhere  seen  more  convincing 
proofs  of  sincere  conversion  to  God.  May  he  grant  them  to 
persevere  in  their  virtuous  resolutions.  Reverend  Father 
Point  intends  passing  the  winter  with  them  to  confirm  them 
in  their  faith. ^  After  some  advice  and  salutary  regulations, 
I  left  this  interesting  colony,  and,  I  must  acknowledge,  with 
heartfelt  regret.  The  great  chief  allowed  himself  scarcely 
a  moment's  repose  for  three  nights  I  spent  amongst  them; 
he  would  rise  from  time  to  time  to  harangue  the  people, 
and  repeat  to  them  all  he  was  able  to  remember  of  the  in- 
structions of  the  day.  During  the  whole  time  of  my  mis- 
sion, he  continued  at  my  side,  so  anxious  was  he  not  to  lose 
a  single  word.  The  old  chief,  now  in  his  eightieth  year, 
was  baptized  by  the  name  of  Jesse. 

In  the  spring  the  territory  of  this  tribe  enchants  the 
traveler  who  may  happen  to  traverse  it.  It  is  so  diversified 
with  noble  plains  and  enameled  with  flowers,  whose  various 
forms  and  colors  offer  to  experienced  botanists  an  interest- 

1  Further  history  of  the  Caeur  d'Alene  Mission. —  The  mission  to  the 
CcEur  d'Alenes  was  accordingly  opened  by  Father  Point  and  Brother 
Huet,  and  the  day  of  their  arrival  being  the  first  Friday  in  November, 
the  establishment  received  the  name  of  Sacred  Heart  of  Jesus  in 
commemoration  of  the  feast.  "  The  site  chosen,  a  beautiful  spot  in 
the  fall,  but  mostly  under  water  in  the  spring,  lay  on  the  banks  of 
the  St.  Joseph  river.  But  this  location  was  changed  in  1846  for  an- 
other on  the  banks  of  Coeur  d'Alene  river,  where  the  Fathers  lived 
for  a  number  of  years.  The  place  is  known  to-day  as  Cataldo,  or  Old 
Mission.  Later  on  it  was  found  convenient  or  necessary  to  locate  the 
mission  on  the  present  site,  known  as  De  Smet,  on  Hangman's  creek, 
not  far  from  Farmington. —  The  Coeur  d'Alenes  are  to-day  the  best 
and  most  industrious  Indians  in  the  Rocky  Mountains." —  Palladino 
(1891). 


378 


EXCITING  NAVIGATION. 


ing  parterre.  These  plains  are  surrounded  by  magnificent 
forests  of  pine,  fir  and  cedar.  To  the  west  their  country  is 
open,  and  the  view  extends  over  several  days'  journey.  To 
the  south,  east  and  north,  you  see  towering  mountains,  ridge 
rising  above  ridge,  robed  with  snow,  and  mingling  their 
summits  with  the  clouds,  from  which,  at  a  distance,  you 
can  hardly  distinguish  them.  The  lake  forms  a  striking 
feature  in  this  beautiful  prospect,  and  is  about  thirty  miles 
in  circumference.  It  is  deep,  and  abounds  in  fish,  particu- 
larly in  salmon  trout,  common  trout,  carp,  and  a  small,  oily 
fish,  very  delicious,  and  tasting  like  the  smelt.  The  Spokan 
river  rises  in  the  lake,  and  crosses  the  whole  plain  of  the 
Coeur  d'Alenes,  The  valley  that  borders  above  the  lake  is 
from  four  to  five  miles  wide,  exceedingly  fertile,  and  the 
soil  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  deep.  Every  spring,  at  the  melt- 
ing of  the  snow,  it  is  subject  to  inundations,  which  scarcely 
ever  last  longer  than  four  or  five  days;  at  the  same  time 
augmenting,  as  in  Egypt,  the  fertility  of  the  soil.  The  po- 
tato grows  here  very  well,  and  in  great  abundance. 

The  Spokan  river  is  wide,  swift  and  deep  in  the  spring, 
and  contains,  like  all  the  rivers  of  Oregon,  many  rapid 
falls  and  cascades.  The  navigation  of  the  waters  of  this 
immense  territory  is  generally  dangerous,  and  few  risk 
themselves  on  them  without  being  accompanied  by  ex- 
perienced pilots.  In  descending  Clark's  river,  we  passed 
by  some  truly  perilous  and  remarkable  places,  where  the 
pilots  have  full  opportunity  to  exhibit  their  dexterity  and 
prudence.  The  rapids  are  numerous  and  the  roar  of  the 
waters  incessant,  the  current  sweeping  on  at  the  rate  of 
ten  or  twelve  miles  an  hour ;  the  rugged  banks  and  project- 
ing rocks  creating  waves  resembling  those  of  the  troubled 
sea.  The  skilful  pilot  mounts  the  waves,  which  seem 
ready  to  engulf  us,  the  canoe  speeds  over  the  agitated  waters, 
and  with  the  aid  of  the  paddle,  skilfully  plied,  bears  us 
unharmed  through  numberless  dangers. 

The  most  remarkable  spot  on  this  river  is  called  the 
Cabinets;  it  consists  of  four  apartments,  which  you  have 


ACHIEVEMENTS  OF  THE  MINISTERS.  379 

hardly  time  to  examine,  as  you  are  scarcely  half  a  minute 
passing  by  them.  Represent  to  yourself  chasms  between 
two  rocky  mountains  of  a  stupendous  height,  the  river  pent 
in  between  them  in  a  bed  of  thirty  or  forty  feet,  precipitat- 
ing itself  down  its  rocky  channel  with  irresistible  fury,  roar- 
ing against  its  jagged  sides,  and  whitening  with  foam  all 
around  it.  In  a  short  space  it  winds  in  four  different  direc- 
tions, resembling  very  much  forked  lightning.  It  re- 
quires very  great  skill,  activity  and  presence  of  mind  to 
extricate  yourself   from  this  difficult  pass.^ 

The  Spokan  lands  are  sandy,  gravelly  and  badly  calculated 
for  agriculture.  The  section  over  which  I  traveled  con- 
sisted of  immense  plains  of  light,  dry  and  sandy  soil,  and 
thin  forests  of  gum  pines.  We  saw  nothing  in  this  noiseless 
solitude  but  a  buck,  running  quickly  from  us  and  disappear- 
ing almost  immediately.  From  time  to  time  the  melancholy 
and  piercing  cry  of  the  wood  snipe  increased  the  gloomy 
thoughts  which  this  sad  spot  occasioned.  Here,  on  a  gay 
and  smiling  little  plain,  two  ministers  have  settled  them- 
selves, with  their  wives,  who  had  consented  to  share  their 
husbands'  soi-distant  apostolical  labors.  During  the  four 
years  they  have  spent  here,  they  have  baptized  several  of 
their  own  children.  They  cultivate  a  small  farm,  large 
enough,  however,  for  their  own  maintenance  and  the  sup- 
port of  their  animals  and  fowls.  It  appears  they  are  fearful 
that  should  they  cultivate  more  they  might  have  too  fre- 
quent visits  from  the  savages.  They  even  try  to  prevent 
their  encampment  in  their  immediate  neighborhood,  and 
therefore  they  see  and  converse  but  seldom  with  the 
heathens,  whom  they  have  come  so  far  to  seek.  A  band 
of  Spokans  received  me  with  every  demonstration  of  friend- 
ship, and  were  enchanted  to  hear  that  the  right  kind  of 
Black-robes  intended  soon  to  form  an  establishment  in  the 
vicinity.  I  baptized  one  of  their  little  children  who  was 
dying. 

2  The  Northern  Pacific  road  now  runs  along  the  brink  of  this  chasm, 
and  affords  a  startling  view  of  the  river  from  a  great  height. 


28o  THE  TRAIL  OF  ICONOCLAST   PARKER. 

It  was  in  these  parts  that  in  1836  a  modern  Iconoclast, 
named  Parker,  broke  down  a  cross  erected  over  the  grave  of 
a  child  by  some  Catholic  Iroquois,  telling  us  emphatically, 
in  the  narrative  of  his  journey,  that  he  did  not  wish  to  leave 
in  that  country  an  emblem  of  idolatry.^  Poor  man !  —  not 
to  know  better  in  this  enlightened  age !  Were  he  to  return 
to  these  mountains,  he  would  hear  the  praises  of  the  holy 
name  of  Jesus  resounding  among  them ;  he  would  hear  the 
Catholics  chanting  the  love  and  mercies  of  God  from  the 
rivers,  lakes,  mountains,  prairies,  forests  and  coasts  of  the 
Columbia.  He  would  behold  the  cross  planted  from  shore 
to  shore  for  the  space  of  a  thousand  miles  —  on  the  loftiest 
height  of  the  Pointed  Heart  territory,  on  the  towering  chain 
which  separates  the  waters  of  the  Missouri  from  the  Colum- 
bia rivers ;  in  the  plains  of  the  Willamette,  Cowlitz  and  Bit- 
ter Root  —  and,  whilst  I  am  writing  to  you,  the  Reverend 
Mr.  Demers  is  occupied  in  planting  this  same  sacred  symbol 
amongst  the  different  tribes  of  New  Caledonia.  The  words 
of  him  who  said  that  this  holy  sign  ivould  draw  all  men  to 
himself,  begin  to  be  verified  with  regard  to  the  poor  desti- 
tute sheep  of  this  vast  continent.  Were  he  who  destroyed 
that  solitary,  humble  cross  now  to  return,  he  would  find  the 
image  of  Jesus  Christ  crucified,  borne  on  the  breast  of  more 
than  4,000  Indians;  and  the  smallest  child  would  say  to 
him  :  "  Mr.  Parker,  we  do  not  adore  the  cross ;  do  not  break 
it,  because  it  reminds  us  of  Jesus  Christ  who  died  on  the 
cross  to  save  us  —  we  adore  God  alone." 

In  the  beginning  of  May  I  arrived  at  Fort  Colville  on 
the  Columbia  river.  This  year  the  snow  melted  away  very 
early;  the  mountain  torrents  had  overflowed,  and  the  small 
rivers  that  usually  moved  quietly  along  in  the  month  of 
April,  had  suddenly  left  their  beds  and  assumed  the  ap- 
pearance of  large  rivers  and  lakes,  completely  flooding  all 
the  lowlands.    This  rendered  my  journey  to  Vancouver  by 

3  Journal  of  an  Exploring  Tour  Beyond  th-e  Rocky  Mountains,  under 
the  Direction  of  the  A  B  C  F  M :  by  Rev.  Samuel  Parker,  A.M., 
p.  281. 


LIZETTE  MAKES   MISCHIEF.  381 

land  impossible,  and  induced  me  to  wait,  nolens  volens,  at 
the  fort,  for  the  construction  of  the  barges,  which  were  not 
ready  until  the  30th  of  the  same  month,  when  I  was  again 
able  to  pursue  my  journey  on  the  river.  On  the  same  day 
that  I  arrived  among  the  Skoyelpi  or  Chaudiere  tribe,  who 
resided  near  the  fort,  I  undertook  to  translate  our  prayers 
into  their  language.  This  kept  me  only  one  day,  as  their 
language  is  nearly  the  same  as  that  of  the  Flatheads  and 
Kalispels,  having  the  same  origin.  They  were  all  very 
attentive  in  attending  my  instructions,  and  the  old  as  well 
as  the  young  tried  assiduously  to  learn  their  prayers.  I 
baptized  all  the  younger  children  who  had  not  received 
the  sacrament  before,  for  Mr.  Demers  had  already  made 
two  excursions  amongst  them,  with  the  most  gratifying 
success.  The  great  chief  and  his  wife  had  long  sighed  for 
baptism,  which  holy  sacrament  I  administered  to  them, 
naming  them  Martin  and  Mary.  This  chief  is  one  of  the 
most  intelligent  and  pious  I  have  become  acquainted  with. 
The  work  of  God  does  not,  however,  proceed  without 
contradictions ;  it  is  necessary  to  prepare  one's  self  for  them 
beforehand  when  undertaking  any  enterprise  amongst 
the  tribes.  I  have  had  some  hard  trials  in  all  my  visits. 
I  expected  them,  when  on  the  13th  of  May,  I  started  to 
see  the  Okinagan  tribe,  who  were  desirous  to  meet  a 
priest.  The  interpreter,  Charles,  and  the  chief  of  the 
Skoyelpi,  wished  to  accompany  me.  In  crossing  the  Co- 
lumbia river  my  mule  returned  to  the  shore,  and  ran  at 
full  speed  into  the  forest;  Charles  pursued  her,  and  two 
hours  afterward  I  was  told  that  he  had  been  found  dead 
in  the  prairie.  I  hastened  immediately,  and  perceived  from 
a  distance  a  great  gathering  of  people.  I  soon  reached 
the  spot  where  he  was  lying,  and,  to  my  great  joy,  per- 
ceived that  he  gave  signs  of  life.  He  was,  however,  sense- 
less, and  in  a  most  pitiful  state.  A  copious  bleeding  and 
some  days  of  rest  restored  him  and  we  resumed  our  jour- 
ney. This  time  the  mule  had  a  large  rope  tied  around  her 
neck,  and  we  crossed  the  river  without  any  accidents;  we 


382  A  POTAWATOMI  EL  SIRAT. 

took  a  narrow  path  that  led  us  by  mountains,  valleys, 
forests  and  prairies,  following  the  course  of  the  river 
Skarameep.  Toward  evening  we  were  on  the  borders  of 
a  deep  impetuous  torrent,  having  no  other  bridge  than  a 
tree  which  was  rather  slight  and  in  constant  motion  from 
the  rushing  of  the  waters.  It  reminded  me  of  the  bridge  of 
souls  spoken  of  in  the  Potawatomi  legends.  These  sav- 
ages believe  that  souls  must  traverse  this  bridge  before 
they  reach  their  elysium  in  the  west.  The  good,  they  say, 
pass  over  it  without  danger;  the  bad,  on  the  contrary,  are 
unable  to  hold  on,  but  stumble,  stagger  and  fall  into  the 
torrent  below,  which  sweeps  them  off  into  a  labyrinth  of 
lakes  and  marshes;  here  they  drag  out  their  existence; 
wretched,  tormented  by  famine  and  in  great  agony,  the 
living  prey  of  all  sorts  of  venomous  reptiles  and  ferocious 
animals,  wandering  to  and  fro  without  ever  being  able  to 
escape.  We  were  fortunate  enough  to  cross  the  trembling 
bridge  without  accident.  We  soon  pitched  our  camp  on 
the  other  side,  and  in  spite  of  the  warring  waves  which  in 
falls  and  cascades  thundered  all  night  by  our  side,  we  en- 
joyed a  refreshing  sleep.  The  greater  part  of  the  next 
day  the  path  conducted  us  through  a  thick  and  hilly  forest 
of  fir  trees;  the  country  then  became  more  undulating  and 
open.  From  time  to  time  we  perceived  an  Indian  burial- 
ground,  remarkable  only  for  the  posts  erected  on  the 
graves,  and  hung  with  kettles,  wooden  plates,  guns,  bows 
and  arrows,  left  there  by  the  nearest  relatives  of  the  de- 
ceased —  humble  tokens  of  their  grief  and  friendship. 

We  encamped  on  the  shore  of  a  small  lake  called  the 
Skarameep,^  where  was  a  Skoyelpi  village;  I  gave  these 
savages  several  instructions  and  baptized  their  infants.  In 
memory  of  my  visit,  they  gave  the  name  of  Leeeyou  Pierre 

4  There  is  a  small  lake  called  Karamip  on  the  map  in  this  part  of 
Washington.  Father  De  Smet's  movements  would  seem  to  point  to 
Kettle  lake  and  river,  but  the  native  name  for  the  latter  is  given  as 
Ne-hoi-al-pit-kwu. 


FATHER   PETER   MOUNTAIN.  383 

(Father  Peter)  to  an  immense  rocky  mountain  which 
dominates  the  whole  region.  At  my  departure  the  whole 
village  accompanied  me.  The  country  over  which  we 
traveled  is  open;  the  soil  sterile  and  sandy,  and  the  dif- 
ferent chains  of  mountains  that  traverse  it  seem  to  be 
nothing  but  sharp  pointed  rocks,  thinly  covered  with 
cedars  and  pines.  Toward  evening  we  came  up  with  the 
men  of  the  first  Okinagan  encampment,  who  received  us 
with  the  greatest  cordiality  and  joy.  The  chief  who  came 
out  to  meet  us  was  quite  conspicuous,  being  arrayed  in 
his  court  dress  —  a  shirt  made  of  a  horse-skin,  the  hair 
of  which  was  outside,  the  mane  partly  on  his  chest  and 
back,  giving  him  a  truly  fantastic  and  savage  appearance. 
The  camp  also  joined  us,  and  the  fact  of  my  arrival  hav- 
ing been  soon  noised  abroad  in  every  direction,  we  saw, 
issuing  from  the  defiles  and  narrow  passes  of  the  moun- 
tains, bands  of  Indians  who  had  gone  forth  to  gather  their 
harvest  of  roots.  Many  sick  w^re  presented  to  me  for 
baptism,  of  which  rite  they  already  knew  the  importance. 
Before  reaching  the  rendezvous  assigned  us,  on  the 
borders  of  the  Okinagan  lake,  I  was  surrounded  by  more 
than  200  horsemen,  and  more  than  200  others  were  al- 
ready in  waiting.  We  recited  together  night  prayers,  and 
all  listened  with  edifying  attention  to  the  instruction  I  gave 
them.  The  interpreter  and  Martin  continued  the  religious 
conversation  until  the  night  was  far  advanced;  they  mani- 
fested the  same  anxiety  to  hear  the  word  of  God  that  the 
Coeur  d'Alenes  had  shown.  All  the  next  day  was  spent 
in  prayer,  instructions  and  hymns  —  I  baptized  106  chil- 
dren and  some  old  people,  and  in  conclusion  named  the 
plain  where  these  consoling  scenes  occurred,  the  "  Plain 
of  Prayer."  It  would  be  impossible  for  me  to  give  you  an 
idea  of  the  piety,  the  happiness  of  these  men,  who  are 
thirsting  for  the  life-living  waters  of  the  divine  word.  How 
much  good  a  missionary  could  do,  who  would  reside  in  the 
midst  of  a  people  who  are  so  desirous  of  receiving  instruc- 


384  THE  ACHILLES  OF  RIVERS. 

tion,  and  correspond  so  faithfully  with  the  grace  of  God. 
After  some  regulations  and  advice,  I  left  this  interesting 
people,  and  pursuing  my  journey  for  three  days  over 
mountains  and  through  dense  forests,  arrived  safely  at 
Fort  Colville. 

Amongst  the  innumerable  rivers  that  traverse  the 
American  continent,  and  afford  means  of  communication 
between  its  most  distant  portions,  the  Columbia  river  is 
one  of  the  most  remarkable,  not  only  on  account  of  its 
great  importance,  west  of  the  mountains,  but  also  from 
the  dangers  that  attend  its  navigation.  At  some  distance 
from  the  Pacific  Ocean,  crossing  a  territory  which  exhibits, 
in  several  localities,  evident  marks  of  former  volcanic 
eruptions,  its  course  is  frequently  impeded  by  rapids,  by 
chains  of  volcanic  rocks,  and  immense  detached  masses  of 
the  same  substance  which,  in  many  places,  obstruct  the 
bed  of  the  river. 

I  embarked  on  this  river,  on  the  30th  of  May,  in  one  of 
the  barges  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company;  Mr.  Ogden,^  one 
of  the  principal  proprietors,  ofifered  me  a  place  in  his.  I 
shall  never  forget  the  kindness  and  friendly  manner  with 
which  this  gentleman  treated  me  throughout  the  journey, 
nor  the  many  agreeable  hours  I  spent  in  his  company.  I 
found  his  conversation  instructive,  his  anecdotes  and  bon 
mots  entertaining  and  timely;  it  was  with  great  regret  that 
I  parted  from  him. 

I  will  not  detain  you  with  a  description  of  the  rapids, 
falls  and  cascades,  which  I  saw  on  this  celebrated  river; 
for  from  its  source  in  the  mountains  to  the  cascades  it  is 
but  a  succession  of  dangers.  I  will  endeavor,  however,  to 
give  you  some  idea  of  one  of  its  largest  rapids,  called  by 
the  Canadian  voyageurs  the  Great  Dalles.     A  dalle  is  a 

^  Peter  Skeen  Ogden,  son  of  Chief  Justice  Ogden  of  Quebec,  for- 
merly a  Tory  resident  of  New  York.  Served  successively  with  Astor, 
the  Northwest  Company  and  the  Hudson  Bay  Company;  discoverer 
of  Humboldt  river;  died  at  Oregon  City  in  1854,  at  the  age  of  sixty. 


SALMON  AND  SEALS.  385 

place  where  the  current  is  confined  to  a  channel  between 
two  steep  rocks,  forming  a  prolonged  narrow  torrent,  but 
of  extraordinary  force  and  swiftness.  Here  the  river  is 
divided  into  several  channels  separated  from  one  another 
by  masses  of  rocks,  which  rise  abruptly  above  its  surface. 
Some  of  these  channels  are  navigable  at  certain  seasons 
of  the  year,  although  with  very  great  risk,  even  to  the 
most  experienced  pilot.  But  when,  after  the  melting  of 
the  snow,  the  river  rises  above  its  usual  level,  the  waters 
in  most  of  these  channels  make  but  one  body,  and  the 
whole  mass  of  these  united  streams  descends  with  irre- 
sistible fury.  At  this  season  the  most  courageous  dare  not 
encounter  such  dangers,  and  all  navigation  is  discon- 
tinued. In  this  state  the  river  flows  with  an  imposing 
grandeur  and  majesty,  which  no  language  can  describe. 
It  seems  at  one  moment  to  stay  its  progress;  then  leaps 
forward  with  resistless  impetuosity,  and  then  rebounds 
against  the  rock-girt  islands  of  which  I  have  already 
spoken,  but  which  present  only  vain  obstructions  to  its 
headlong  course.  If  arrested  for  a  moment,  its  accumu- 
lated waters  proudly  swell  and  mount  as  though  instinct 
with  life,  and  the  next  moment  dash  triumphantly  on,  en- 
veloping the  half  smothered  waves  that  preceded  them  as 
if  impatient  of  their  sluggish  course,  and  wild  to  speed 
them  on  their  way. 

Along  the  shore,  on  every  projecting  point,  the  Indian 
fisherman  takes  his  stand,  spreading  in  the  eddies  his  in- 
geniously worked  net,  and  in  a  short  time  procures  for 
himself  an  abundant  supply  of  fine  fish.  Attracted  by  the 
shoals  of  fish  that  come  up  the  river,  the  seals  gambol 
amid  the  eddying  waves  —  now  floating  with  their  heads 
above  the  river's  breast,  and  anon  darting  in  the  twinkling 
of  an  eye  from  side  to  side,  in  sportive  joy,  or  in  swift 
pursuit  of  their  scaly  prey. 

But  this  noble  river  has  far  other  recollections  associated 
with  it.  Never  shall  I  forget  the  sad  and  fatal  accident 
25 


o86  TRAGEDY   OF   THE   LITTLE   DALLES. 

which  occurred  on  the  second  day  of  our  voyage,  at  a 
spot  called  the  "  Little  Dalles."  ^  I  had  gone  ashore  and 
was  walking  along  the  bank,  scarcely  thinking  what  might 
happen;  for  my  breviary,  papers,  bed,  in  a  word,  my  Httle 
all,  had  been  left  in  the  barge.  I  had  proceeded  about  a 
quarter  of  a  mile,  when  seeing  the  bargemen  push  off  from 
the  bank  and  glide  down  the  stream  with  an  easy,  careless 
air,  I  began  to  repent  having  preferred  a  path  along  the 
river's  side,  so  strewn  with  fragments  of  rocks  that  I  was 
compelled  at  every  instant  to  turn  aside  or  clamber  over 
them.  I  still  held  on  my  course,  when  all  at  once  the 
barge  is  so  abruptly  stopped  that  the  rowers  can  hardly 
keep  their  seats.  Regaining,  however,  their  equilibrium, 
they  ply  the  oars  with  redoubled  vigor,  but  without  any 
efifect  upon  the  barge.  They  are  already  within  the  power 
of  the  angry  vortex;  the  waters  are  crested  with  foam;  a 
deep  sound  is  heard  which  I  distinguish  as  the  voice  of 
the  pilot  encouraging  his  men  to  hold  to  their  oars  —  to 
row  bravely.  The  danger  increases  every  minute,  and  in 
a  moment  more  all  hope  of  safety  has  vanished.  The 
barge,  the  sport  of  the  vortex,  spins  like  a  top  upon  the 
whirling  waters  —  the  oars  are  useless  —  the  bow  rises  — 
the  stern  descends,  and  the  next  instant  all  have  disap- 
peared. A  death-like  chill  shot  through  my  frame  —  a 
dimness  came  over  my  sight,  as  the  cry  "we  are  lost!" 
rang  in  my  ears,  and  told  but  too  plainly  that  my  com- 
panions were  buried  beneath  the  waves.  Overwhelmed 
with  grief  and  utterly  unable  to  afford  them  the  slightest 
assistance,  I  stood  a  motionless  spectator  of  this  tragic 
scene.  All  were  gone,  and  yet  upon  the  river's  breast 
there  was  not  the  faintest  trace  of  their  melancholy  fate. 
Soon  after  the  whirlpool  threw  up,  in  various  directions, 

6  "When  near  the  Okinagan  Dalles,  on  being  told  by  the  boatman 
that  the  pass  was  a  bad  one,  he  requested  to  be  put  on  shore.  A  little 
while  after,  the  boat  was  engulfed  in  a  whirlpool  and,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  Father's  interpreter  and  another  man  who  escaped,  all  on 
board  perished." —  Palladino. 


THE  FISHING  INDIANS.  387 

the  oars,  poles,  the  capsized  barge,  and  every  hghter  article 
it  had  contained.  Here  and  there  I  beheld  the  unhappy 
bargemen  vainly  struggling  in  the  midst  of  the  vortex. 
Five  of  them  sank  never  to  rise  again.  My  interpreter 
had  twice  touched  bottom  and  after  a  short  prayer  was 
thrown  upon  the  bank.  An  Iroquois  saved  himself  by 
means  of  my  bed;  and  a  third  was  so  fortunate  as  to  seize 
the  handle  of  an  empty  trunk,  which  helped  him  to  sustain 
himself  above  water  until  he  reached  land. 

The  rest  of  our  journey  was  more  fortunate.  We 
stopped  at  Forts  Okinagan''^  and  Walla  Walla,^  where  I  bap- 
tized several  children. 

The  savages  who  principally  frequent  the  borders  of  the 
Columbia  river  are  from  the  lakes;  the  chief  of  whom,  with 
several  of  the  nation,  have  been  baptized ;  also  the  Skoyelpi 
or  Chaudieres,  the  Okinagans,  Cinqpoils,  Walla  Wallas, 
Pierced  Noses,  Cayuses,  Attayes,  Spokans,  the  Indians 
from  the  falls  and  cascades,  and  the  Chinooks  and  Clat- 
sops. 

We  arrived  at  Fort  Vancouver^  on  the  morning  of  the 
8th  of  June.  I  enjoyed  the  happiness  and  great  consola- 
tion of  meeting  in  these  distant  parts  two  respectable 
Canadian  priests  —  the  Reverend  Mr.  Blanchet,  grand 
vicar  of  all  the  countries  west  of  the  mountains  claimed 

"^  See  note  page  553. 

8  A  Northwest  Company  trading  post,  built  in  1818  by  Donald  Mc- 
Kenzie ;  first  called  Fort  Nez  Perce ;  burned  in  1842  and  rebuilt  the 
year  following  of  adobe ;  abandoned  in  1855.  The  later  military  post 
and  the  present  city,  both  of  the  same  name,  were  located  in  the  vicin- 
ity, though  not  upon  the  site  of  the  old  fort. 

®  "  The  metropolitan  establishment  of  the  Hudson  Bay  Company  on 
the  Pacific  between  the  years  1825,  when  it  was  begun,  and  1847,  when 
the  headquarters  of  the  company  were  removed  to  Victoria." — Ban- 
croft. The  fort  consisted  of  an  inclosure  750  by  500  feet,  surrounded 
by  a  palisade  over  twenty  feet  in  height,  within  which  were  some  forty 
buildings,  including  a  Catholic  chapel.  There  was  a  village  of  sixty 
houses  adjacent,  and  a  farm  some  nine  square  miles  in  extent,  l,SCX3 
acres  or  over  being  in  cultivation. 


388  MINISTERS  OVERRUNNING  THE  COUNTRY. 

by  the  British  crown,  and  the  Reverend  Mr.  Demers.^^ 
They  are  laboring  in  these  regions  for  the  same  object 
that  we  are  trying  to  accompHsh  in  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
The  kindness  and  benevolence  with  which  these  reverend 
gentlemen  received  me  are  proofs  of  the  pure  zeal  which 
actuates  them  for  the  salvation  of  these  savages.  They 
assured  me  that  immense  good  might  be  done  in  the  ex- 
tensive regions  that  border  on  the  Pacific,  if  a  greater 
number  of  missionaries,  with  means  at  their  command, 
were  stationed  in  these  regions;  and  they  urged  me  very 
strongly  to  obtain  from  my  superiors  some  of  our  Fathers. 
I  will  try  to  give  you  in  my  next  some  extracts  from  the 
letters  of  these  missionaries,  which  will  make  the  country 
known  to  you,  its  extent,  and  the  progress  of  their  mission. 
The  Governor  of  the  honorable  Company  of  Hudson 
Bay,  Dr.  McLoughlin,  who  resides  at  Fort  Vancouver, 
after  having  given  me  every  possible  proof  of  interest,  as 
a  good  Catholic,  advised  me  to  do  everything  in  my  power 
to  gratify  the  wishes  of  the  Canadian  missionaries.  His 
principal  reason  is,  that  if  Catholicity  was  rapidly  planted 
in  these  tracts  where  civilization  begins  to  dawn,  it  would 
be  more  quickly  introduced  thence  into  the  interior.  Al- 
ready a  host  of  ministers  have  overrun  a  part  of  the  coun- 
try, and  have  settled  wherever  they  may  derive  some  ad- 
vantages for  the  privations  their  philanthropy  imposes  on 
them.  Such  is  the  state  of  these  regions  of  the  new  world, 
as  yet  so  little  known:  you  perceive  that  our  prospects  are 
by  no  means  discouraging.    Permit  me  therefore  to  repeat 

10 "  'A  scene  here  ensued  so  affecting  and  so  edifying,'  writes  Arch- 
bishop Seghers,  'that  it  drew  tears  from  the  eyes  of  the  only  witness 
present,  Father  Demers,  from  whose  lips  we  received  the  moving  nar- 
rative. No  sooner  had  Father  De  Smet  descried  the  Vicar  General 
than  he  ran  to  prostrate  himself  at  his  feet,  imploring  his  blessing; 
and  no  sooner  had  the  Very  Reverend  Blanchet  caught  sight  of  the 
valiant  missionary  than  he  also  fell  on  his  knees,  imploring  the  blessing 
of  the  saintly  Jesuit.  Admirable  struggle,  where  the  last  place,  not  the 
first,  was  the  object  of  the  contestants.'  " —  Palladino.  Blanchet  and 
Demers  came  to  Oregon  from  Canada  in  1838. 


HIGH  DEATH  RATE  FROM  ACCIDENTS         389 

the  great  principle  you  have  so  often  recommended  to  me, 
and  which  I  have  not  forgotten:  "Courage  and  confi- 
dence in  God!"  With  the  mercy  of  God,  the  Church  of 
Jesus  Christ  may  soon  have  the  consolation  of  seeing  her 
standard  planted  in  these  distant  lands  on  the  ruins  of 
idolatry  and  of  the  darkest  superstition.  Pray  then  that 
the  Lord  of  such  a  rich  harvest  may  send  us  numerous 
fellow  laborers;  for  in  so  extensive  a  field  we  are  but  five, 
and  beset  with  so  many  dangers,  that  at  the  dawn  of  day 
we  have  often  reason  to  doubt  whether  w^e  will  live  to  see 
the  sun  go  down.  It  is  not  that  we  have  anything  to  fear 
from  the  cHmate ;  far  from  it  —  for.  if  here  death  came 
only  by  sickness,  we  might  indeed  count  upon  many  years, 
but  water,  fire,  and  the  bow,  often  hurry  their  victims  of¥ 
when  least  expected.  Of  lOO  men  who  inhabit  this 
country,  there  are  not  ten  who  do  not  die  by  some  or 
other  fatal   accident. 

The  afternoon  of  the  30th  of  June  I  resumed  my  place  in 
one  of  the  barges  of  the  English  Company,  and  took  my 
leave  of  the  worthy  and  respectable  Governor. ^^  To  my 
great  joy  I  found  that  the  Reverend  Mr.  Demers  was  one 
of  the  passengers,  being  about  to  undertake  an  apostolic 
excursion  among  the  different  tribes  of  New  Caledonia, 
who,  according  to  the  accounts  of  several  Canadian  trav- 
elers, were  most  anxious  to  see  a  Black-gown  and  hear 
the  word  of  God.  The  wind  being  favorable,  the  sails  of 
the  barge  w^ere  unfurled,  and  the  sailors  plying  their  oars 
at  the  same  time,  the  nth  of  July  saw  us  landed  safely  at 
Fort  Walla  Walla.  The  next  day  I  parted,  with  many 
regrets,  from  my  esteemed  friends.  Reverend  Mr.  Demers, 
and  Mr.  Ogden.  Accompanied  only  by  my  interpreter, 
we  continued  our  land  route  to  the  19th,  through  woods 
and  immense  plains.     The  high  plains  which  separate  the 

11  Father  De  Smet,  during  his  sojourn  on  the  lower  Columbia,  made 
a  journey  up  the  Willamette  to  St.  Paul  Mission,  the  residence  of 
Reverend  Blanchet.  This  was  a  short  distance  above  the  Falls  of  the 
Willamette. 


390 


TERRIFIC   MOUNTAINS. 


waters  of  the  Snake  river  from  those  of  the  Spokan,  offer 
some  natural  curiosities.  I  fancied  myself  in  the  vicinity 
of  several  fortified  cities,  surrounded  by  walls  and  small 
forts,  scattered  in  different  directions.  The  pillars  are 
regular  pentagons,  from  two  to  four  feet  in  diameter,  erect, 
joined  together,  forming  a  wall  from  forty  to  eighty  feet 
high,  and  extending  several  miles  in  the  form  of  squares 
and  triangles,  detached  from  one  another,  and  in  different 
directions. 

On  our  road  we  met  some  Nez  Perces,  and  a  small  band 
of  Spokans,  who  accosted  us  with  many  demonstrations  of 
friendship,  and  although  very  poor,  offered  us  more  sal- 
mon than  we  could  carry.  The  Pointed  Hearts  (a  tribe 
which  shall  ever  be  dear  to  me)  came  to  meet  us,  and 
great  was  the  joy  on  both  sides,  on  beholding  one  another 
again.  They  had  strictly  observed  all  the  rules  I  had 
laid  down  for  them  at  my  first  visit.  They  accompanied 
me  for  three  days,  to  the  very  limits  of  their  territory. 
We  then  planted  a  cross  on  the  summit  of  a  high  moun- 
tain, covered  with  snow,  and  after  the  example  of  the  Flat- 
heads,  all  the  people  consecrated  themselves  inviolably  to 
the  service  of  God.  We  remained  there  that  night.  The 
next  morning,  after  reciting  our  prayers  in  common,  and 
giving  them  a  long  exhortation,  we  bade  them  farewell. 

The  20th  I  continued  my  journey  over  terrific  moun- 
tains, steep  rocks,  and  through  apparently  impenetrable 
forests.  I  could  scarcely  believe  that  any  human  being 
had  ever  preceded  us  over  such  a  road.  At  the  end  of 
four  days'  journey,  replete  with  fatigue  and  dif^culties, 
we  reached  the  borders  of  the  Bitter  Root  river,  and  on 
the  evening  of  July  27th  I  had  the  happiness  of  arriving 
safely  at  St.  Mary's,  and  of  finding  my  dear  brethren  in 
good  health. 

The  Flatheads,  accompanied  by  Father  Point,  had  left 
the  village  ten  days  before,  to  procure  provisions.  A  few 
had  remained  to  guard  the  camp,  and  their  families 
awaited  my  return.     The  29th,  I  started  to  rejoin  the  Flat- 


TO  CROSS  THE  DESERT  AGAIN.  39 1 

heads  on  the  Missouri  river.  We  ascended  the  Bitter 
Root  to  its  source,  and  the  ist  of  August,  having  clam- 
bered up  a  high  mountain,  we  planted  a  cross  on  its  very 
summit,  near  a  beautiful  spring,  one  of  the  sources  of  the 
Missouri.  The  next  day,  after  a  forced  march,  we  joined 
the  camp,  where  we  had  such  a  budget  of  news  to  open, 
so  many  interesting  facts  to  communicate  to  each  other, 
that  we  sat  up  a  greater  part  of  the  night.  The  Reverend 
Father  Point  and  myself  accompanied  our  dear  neophytes, 
who  to  obtain  their  daily  bread  are  obliged  to  hunt  the 
buffalo  even  over  the  lands  of  their  most  inveterate  ene- 
mies, the  Blackfeet.  On  the  15th  of  August,  the  feast  of 
the  Assumption,  (the  same  on  which  this  letter  is  dated) 
I  offered  up  the  sacrific  of  the  mass  in  a  noble  plain, 
watered  by  one  of  the  three  streams  that  form  the  head 
waters  of  the  Missouri,  to  thank  God  for  all  the  blessings 
he  had  bestowed  on  us  during  this  last  year.  I  had  the 
consolation  of  seeing  fifty  Flatheads  approach  the  holy 
table  in  so  humble,  modest  and  devout  a  manner,  that  to 
my  perhaps  partial  eye,  they  resembled  angels  more  than 
men.  On  the  same  day  I  determined,  for  the  interest  of 
this  mission,  which  seems  so  absolutely  to  require  it,  to 
traverse  for  the  fourth  time  the  dangerous  American  des- 
ert. If  heaven  preserves  me,  (for  I  have  to  travel  through 
a  region  infested  by  thousands  of  hostile  savages)  I  will 
send  you  the  account  of  this  last  journey. 

You  see  then,  Reverend  Father,  that  in  these  deserts  we 
must  more  than  ever  keep  our  souls  prepared  to  render 
the  fearful  account,  in  consequence  of  the  perils  that  sur- 
round us;  and  as  it  would  be  desirable  that  we  could  be 
replaced  immediately,  in  case  of  any  accident  occurring  — 
again  I  say  to  you,  pray  that  the  Lord  may  send  us  fellow 
laborers.  "  Rogate  ergo  Domimirn  mcssis  lit  mittat  opcr- 
arios  in  messem  suam."  And  thousands  of  souls,  who  would 
otherwise  be  lost,  will  bless  you  one  day  in  eternity.  Rev- 
erend Father  Point  has  expressed  a  desire  to  be  sent 
amongst  the  Blackfeet.     Until  they  are  willing  to  listen  to 


392 


RECORD  OF  BAPTISMS. 


the  word  of  God,  which  I  think  will  be  before  long,  he  in- 
tends to  preach  the  gospel  to  the  Pointed  Hearts  and  the 
neighboring  tribes.  I  trust  we  shall  be  able  to  make  as 
cheering  a  report  of  these  as  we  have  already  done  of  our 
first  neophytes.  I  have  found  them  all  in  the  best  dis- 
positions. The  Reverend  Father  Mengarini  remains  with 
the  Flatheads  and  Pend  d'Oreilles. 

On  my  first  journey,  in  the  autumn  of  1841,  which  ended 
at  Fort  Colville,  I  baptized  190  persons  of  the  Kalispel 
tribe.  On  my  visit,  last  spring,  to  the  various  distant 
tribes,  (of  which  I  have  just  finished  giving  you  the  ac- 
count) I  had  the  consolation  of  baptizing  418  persons,  60 
of  whom  were  of  the  Pend  d'Oreille  tribe  of  the  great 
lake;  82  of  the  Kootenais  or  Skalzi ;  100  of  the  Pointed 
Hearts;  56  of  the  Skoyelpi;  106  of  the  Okinagans,  and  14 
in  the  Okinagan  and  Walla  Walla  Forts. —  These,  wlith 
500  baptized  last  year,  in  different  parts  of  the  country, 
mostly  amongst  the  Flatheads  and  Kalispels,  and  196  that 
I  baptized  on  Christmas  day,  at  St.  Mary's,  with  the  350 
baptized  by  Reverend  Fathers  Mengarini  and  Point,  make 
a  total  of  1,654  souls,  wrested  from  the  power  of  the  devil. 
For  what  the  scripture  calls  the  ''  spirit  of  the  world  "  has 
not  wherewith  to  introduce  itself  amongst  them.  These 
poor  people  find  their  happiness  even  in  this  world  in  the 
constant  practice  of  their  Christian  duties.  We  may  al- 
most say  of  them,  that  all  who  are  baptized  are  saved. — 
Since  God  has  inspired  you  with  a  zealous  desire  to  second 
the  views  of  the  Association  for  the  Propagation  of  the 
Faith,  entreat  those  pious  persons  to  whom  you  may 
communicate  your  designs,  to  redouble  their  prayers  in 
our  behalf.  I  conclude  by  beseeching  you  earnestly  to 
remember  me  frequently  and  fervently  in  the  holy  sacrifice. 


CHAPTER  XL 

RETURN  TO  ST.  LOUIS  IN  FALL  OF  1842.^ 

Safely  through  Blackfoot  country  —  Agreeable  visit  with  the  Crows 
—  They  make  moral  resolves  —  Continues  journey  with  small  escort  — 
Through  the  dark  and  bloody  ground  —  Routine  of  travel  —  Bill  of 
fare  —  Meets  a  steamboat  —  Perils  of  Upper  River  navigation  —  Safe 
arrival  at  St.  Louis. 

*II"N  my  last  letter  of  August,  I  promised  to  write  to  you 
'■  from  St.  Louis,  should  I  arrive  safely  in  that  city. 
Heaven  has  preserved  me,  and  here  I  am  about  to  fulfil  my 
promise.  Leaving  Reverend  Father  Point  and  the  Flat- 
head camp  on  the  river  Madison,  I  was  accompanied  by 
twelve^  of  our  Indians.  We  traveled  in  three  days  a  dis- 
tance of  150  miles,  crossing  two  chains  of  mountains,  in 
a  section  of  country  frequently  visited  by  the  Blackfeet  war- 
riors, without,  however,  meeting  with  any  of  these  scalping 
savages.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Twenty-five  Yard  river,  a 
branch  of  the  Yellowstone,  we  found  250  huts,  belonging 
to  several  nations,  all  friendly  to  us  —  the  Flatheads,  Kalis- 
pels,  Nez  Perces,  Cayuses,  and  Snakes.  I  spent  three  days 
amongst  them  to  exhort  them  to  perseverance,  and  to  make 
some  preparations  for  my  long  journey.  The  day  of  my 
departure,  ten  neophytes  presented  themselves  at  my  lodge 
to  serve  as  my  escort,  and  to  introduce  me  to  the  Crow  tribe. 
On  the  evening  of  the  second  day  we  were  in  the  midst  of 
this  large  and  interesting  tribe.  The  Crows  had  perceived 
us  from  a  distance ;  as  we  approached,  some  of  them  recog- 

1  This  chapter  consists  of  Letter  XVI,  Letters  and  Sketches  and  the 
last  letter  (XII)  Voyages  aux  M.-R.  It  was  written  at  the  University 
of  St.  Louis  and  sent  in  English  to  a  Father  of  the  Society,  November  i, 
1842,  and  to  Father  De  Smet's  brother  Francis  two  days  later.  The 
English  text  is  here  followed  where  practicable. 

2  Fr.  six. 

[393I 


394 


VIGOROUS    HOSPITALITY. 


nized  me,  and  at  the  cry  of  "  the  Black-robe !  the  Black- 
robe!  "  the  Crows,  young  and  old,  to  the  number  of  3,000, 
came  out  of  their  wigwams. 

On  entering  the  village,  a  comical  scene  occurred,  of 
which  they  suddenly  made  me  the  principal  personage. 
All  the  chiefs  and  about  fifty  of  their  warriors  hastened 
around  me,  and  I  was  literally  assailed  by  them.  Holding 
me  by  the  gown,  they  drew  me  in  every  direction,  whilst 
a  robust  savage  of  gigantic  stature  seemed  resolved  to  carry 
me  off  by  main  force.  All  spoke  at  the  same  time,  and 
appeared  to  be  quarreling,  whilst  I,  the  sole  object  of  all 
this  contention,  could  not  conceive  what  they  were  about. 
I  remained  passive,  not  knowing  whether  I  should  laugh 
or  be  serious.  The  interpreter  soon  came  to  my  relief,  and 
said  that  all  this  uproar  was  but  an  excess  of  politeness  and 
kindness  toward  me,  as  every  one  wished  to  have  the  honor 
of  lodging  and  entertaining  the  Black-gown.  With  his 
advice  I  selected  my  host,  upon  which  the  others  immedi- 
ately loosed  their  hold,  and  I  followed  the  chief  to  his  lodge, 
which  was  the  largest  and  best  in  the  camp.  The  Crows  did 
not  tarry  long  before  they  all  gathered  around  me  and 
loaded  me  with  marks  of  kindness.  The  social  calumet,  em- 
blem of  savage  brotherhood  and  union,  went  round  that 
evening  so  frequently  that  it  was  scarcely  ever  extinguished. 
It  was  accompanied  with  all  the  antics  for  which  the  Crows 
are  so  famous,  when  they  offer  the  calumet  to  the  Great 
Spirit,  to  the  four  winds,  to  the  sun,  fire,  earth  and  water. 

These  Indians  are  unquestionably  the  most  anxious  to 
learn ;  the  most  inquisitive,  ingenious,  and  polished  of  all  the 
savage  tribes  east  of  the  mountains.  They  profess  great 
friendship  and  admiration  for  the  whites.  They  asked  me 
innumerable  questions ;  among  others,  they  wished  to  know 
the  number  of  the  whites.  "  Count,"  I  replied,  "  the  blades 
of  grass  upon  your  immense  plains,  and  you  will  know 
pretty  nearly  the  number  of  the  whites."  They  all  smiled, 
saying  that  the  thing  was  impossible,  but  they  understood 
my  meaning.    And  when  I  explained  to  them  the  vast  ex- 


ENLIGHTENING  THE  CROWS.  395 

tent  of  the  "  villages  "  inhabited  by  white  men  (New  York, 
Philadelphia,  London,  Paris),  the  grand  lodges  (houses) 
built  as  near  each  other  as  the  fingers  of  my  hand,  and  four 
or  five  piled  up,  one  above  the  other —  (meaning  the  dif- 
ferent stories  of  our  dwellings)  ;  when  I  told  them  that  some 
of  these  lodges  (speaking  of  churches  and  towers)  were  as 
high  as  mountains,  and  large  enough  to  contain  all  the 
Crows  together;  that  in  the  grand  lodge  of  the  national 
council  (the  Capitol  at  Washington)  all  the  great  chiefs  of 
the  whole  world  could  smoke  the  calumet  at  their  ease; 
that  the  roads  in  these  great  villages  were  always  filled  with 
passengers,  who  came  and  went  more  thickly  than  the  vast 
herds  of  buffaloes  that  sometimes  cover  their  beautiful 
plains ;  when  I  explained  to  them  the  extraordinary  celerity 
of  those  moving  lodges  (the  cars  on  the  railroad)  that  leave 
far  behind  them  the  swiftest  horse,  and  which  are  drawn 
along  by  frightful  machines,  whose  repeated  groanings  re- 
echo far  and  wide,  as  they  belch  forth  immense  volumes 
of  fire  and  smoke;  and  next,  those  fire  canoes  (steamboats), 
which  transport  whole  villages,  with  provisions,  arms  and 
baggage,  in  a  few  days,  from  one  country  to  another,  cross- 
ing large  lakes,  (the  seas)  ascending  and  descending  the 
great  rivers  and  streams ;  when  I  told  them  that  I  had  seen 
white  men  mounting  up  into  the  air  (in  balloons)  and  flying 
with  as  much  agility  as  the  warrior  eagle  of  their  moun- 
tains, then  their  astonishment  was  at  its  height;  and  all 
placing  their  hands  upon  their  mouths,  sent  forth  at  the 
same  time,  one  general  cry  of  wonder.  "  The  Master  of 
Life  is  great,"  said  the  chief,  "  and  the  white  men  are  his 
favorites." 

But  what  appeared  to  interest  them  more  than  aught  else, 
was  prayer  (religion)  ;  to  this  subject  they  listened  with  the 
strictest  undivided  attention.  They  told  me  that  they  had 
already  heard  of  it,  and  they  knew  that  this  prayer  made 
men  good  and  wise  on  earth,  and  insured  their  happiness  in 
the  future  life.  They  begged  me  to  permit  the  whole  camp 
to  assemble,  that  they  might  hear  for  themselves  the  words 


396  THE  CROWS  ARE  ADMONISHED. 

of  the  Great  Spirit,  of  whom  they  had  been  told  such  won- 
ders. Immediately  three  United  States  flags  were  erected 
on  the  field,  in  the  midst  of  the  camp,  and  3,000 
savages,  including  the  sick,  who  were  carried  in  skins, 
gathered  around  me.  I  knelt  beneath  the  banner  of  our 
country,  my  ten  Flathead  neophytes  by  my  side,  and  sur- 
rounded by  this  multitude,  eager  to  hear  the  glad  tidings 
of  the  gospel  of  peace.  We  began  by  intoning  two  canti- 
cles, after  which  I  recited  all  the  prayers,  which  we  inter- 
preted to  them :  then  again  we  sang  canticles,  and  I  finished 
by  explaining  to  them  the  Apostles'  Creed  and  the  Ten  Com- 
mandments. They  all  appeared  to  be  filled  with  joy,  and 
declared  it  was  the  happiest  day  of  their  lives.  They  begged 
me  to  have  pity  on  them  —  to  remain  among  them  and  in- 
struct them  and  their  little  children  in  the  knowledge,  love 
and  service  of  the  Great  Spirit.  I  promised  that  a  Black- 
gown  should  visit  them,  but  on  condition  that  the  chiefs 
would  engage  themselves  to  put  a  stop  to  the  thievish  prac- 
tices so  common  amongst  them,  and  to  oppose  vigorously 
the  corrupt  morals  of  their  tribe.  Believing  me  to  be  en- 
dowed with  supernatural  powers,  they  had  entreated  me 
from  the  very  commencement  of  our  conversation  to  free 
them  from  the  sickness  that  then  desolated  the  camp,  and  to 
supply  them  with  plenty.  I  repeated  to  them  on  this  occa- 
sion that  the  Great  Spirit  alone  could  remove  these  evils  — 
God,  I  said,  listens  to  the  supplications  of  the  good  and 
pure  of  heart;  of  those  who  detest  their  sins,  and  wish  to 
devote  themselves  to  his  service  —  but  he  shuts  his  ear 
to  the  prayers  of  those  who  violate  his  holy  law.  In  his 
anger,  God  had  destroyed  by  fire  five  infamous  "  villages  " 
(Sodom,  Gomorrah,  etc.)  in  consequence  of  their  horrid 
abominations  —  that  the  Crows  walked  in  the  ways  of  these 
wicked  men,  consequently  they  could  not  complain  if  the 
Great  Spirit  seemed  to  punish  them  by  sickness,  war  and 
famine.  They  were  themselves  the  authors  of  all  their  ca- 
lamities —  and  if  they  did  not  change  their  mode  of  life  very 
soon,  they  might  expect  to  see  their  misfortunes  increase 


AND  RESOLVE  TO  REFORM.  397 

from  day  to  day  —  while  the  most  awful  torments  awaited 
them  and  all  wicked  men  after  their  death,  I  assured  them 
in  fine  that  heaven  would  be  the  reward  of  those  who  would 
repent  of  their  evil  deeds  and  practice  the  religion  of  the 
Great  Spirit. 

The  grand  orator  of  the  camp  was  the  first  to  reply: 
"  Black-gown,"  said  he,  "  I  understand  you.  You  have  said 
what  is  true.  Your  words  have  passed  from  my  ears  into 
my  heart  —  I  wish  all  could  comprehend  them."  Whereon, 
addressing  himself  to  the  Crows,  he  repeated  forcibly, 
"  Yes,  Crows,  the  Black-gown  has  said  what  is  true.  We 
are  dogs,  for  we  live  like  dogs.  Let  us  change  our  lives 
and  our  children  will  live."  I  then  held  long  conferences 
with  all  the  chiefs  assembled  in  council.  I  proposed  to  them 
the  example  of  the  Flatheads  and  Pend  d'Oreilles,  whose 
chiefs  made  it  their  duty  to  exhort  their  people  to  the  prac- 
tice of  virtue,  and  who  knew  how  to  punish  as  they  de- 
served all  the  prevarications  against  God's  holy  law.  They 
promised  to  follow  my  advice,  and  assured  me  that  I  would 
find  them  in  better  dispositions  on  my  return.  I  flatter 
myself  with  the  hope  that  this  visit,  the  good  example  of 
my  neophytes,  but  principally  the  prayers  of  the  Flatheads, 
will  gradually  produce  a  favorable  change  among  the 
Crows.  A  good  point  in  their  character,  and  one  that  in- 
spires me  with  almost  the  certainty  of  their  amendment,  is 
that  they  have  hitherto  resisted  courageously  all  attempts 
to  introduce  spirituous  liquors  among  them.  "  For  what 
is  this  fire-water  good  ?  "  said  the  chief  to  a  white  man  who 
tried  to  bring  it  into  their  country,  "  it  burns  the  throat  and 
stomach ;  it  makes  a  man  like  a  bear  who  has  lost  his 
senses.  He  bites,  he  growls,  he  scratches  and  he  howls, 
he  falls  down  as  if  he  were  dead.  Your  fire-water  does 
nothing  but  harm  —  take  it  to  our  enemies,  and  they  will 
kill  each  other,  and  their  wives  and  children  will  be  worthy 
of  pity.  As  for  us  we  do  not  want  it,  we  are  fools  enough 
without  it." 

A  very  touching  scene  occurred  during^  the  council.    Sev- 


2o8  BUT  THE  WARPATH   HAS   CHARMS. 

eral  of  the  savages  wished  to  examine  my  missionary  cross ; 
I  thence  took  occasion  to  explain  to  them  the  sufferings  of 
our  Savior,  Jesus  Christ,  and  the  cause  of  his  death  on  the 
cross  —  I  then  placed  my  cross  in  the  hands  of  the  great 
chief ;  he  kissed  it  in  the  most  respectful  manner ;  raising  his 
eyes  to  heaven,  and  pressing  the  cross  with  both  his  hands 
to  his  heart,  he  exclaimed,  "  O  Great  Spirit,  take  pity  on 
me  and  be  merciful  to  thy  poor  children."  And  his  people 
followed  his  example.^ 

I  was  in  the  village  of  the  Crows  when  news  was  brought 
that  two  of  their  most  distinguished  warriors  had  fallen 
victims  to  the  rage  and  cruelty  of  the  Blackfeet.  The  her- 
alds or  orators  went  round  the  camp,  proclaiming  in  a  loud 
voice  the  circumstances  of  the  combat  and  the  tragic  end  of 
the  two  brave  men.  A  gloomy  silence  prevailed  every- 
where, only  interrupted  by  a  band  of  mourners,  whose  ap- 
pearance alone  was  enough  to  make  the  most  insensible 
heart  bleed,  and  rouse  to  vengeance  the  entire  nation.  This 
band  was  composed  of  the  mothers  of  the  two  unfortunate 
warriors  who  had  fallen,  their  wives  carrying  their  new- 
born infants  in  their  arms,  their  sisters,  and  all  their  little 
children.  The  unhappy  creatures  had  their  heads  shaven 
and  cut  in  every  direction ;  they  were  gashed  with  numerous 
wounds,  whence  the  blood  constantly  trickled.  In  this 
pitiable  state  they  rent  the  air  with  their  lamentations  and 
cries,  imploring  the  warriors  of  their  nation  to  have  com- 
passion on  them  —  to  have  compassion  on  their  desolate 
children  —  to  grant  them  one  last  favor,  the  only  cure  for 
their  affliction,  and  that  M^as,  to  go  at  once  and  inflict  signal 
vengeance  on  the  murderers.  They  led  by  the  bridle  all 
the  horses  that  belonged  to  the  deceased.  A  Crow  chief 
mounting  immediately  the  best  of  these  steeds,  brandished 
his  tomahawk  in  the  air,  proclaiming  that  he  was  ready  to 
avenge  the  deed.     Several  young  men  rallied  about  him. 

3  This,  and  Father  De  Smet's  previous  visit  to  the  Crows  in  1840 
(see  p.  239)  appear  to  have  been  the  only  advances  made  to  them  by 
Catholic  priests  until  the  year  1880. 


I 


A  DARK  AND  BLOODY  GROUND.  399 

They  sang  together  the  war-song,  and  started  the  same  day, 
declaring  that  they  would  not  return  empty-handed  (viz: 
without  scalps). 

On  these  occasions  the  near  relations  of  the  one  who  has 
fallen  distribute  everything  that  they  possess,  retaining 
nothing  but  some  old  rags  wherewith  to  clothe  themselves. 
The  mourning  ceases  as  soon  as  the  deed  is  avenged.  The 
warriors  cast  at  the  feet  of  the  widows  and  orphans  the  tro- 
phies torn  away  from  the  enemies.  Then  passing  from 
extreme  grief  to  exultation,  they  cast  aside  their  tattered 
garments,  wash  their  bodies,  besmear  themselves  with  all 
sorts  of  colors,  deck  themselves  off  in  their  best  robes,  and 
with  the  scalps  affixed  to  the  end  of  poles,  march  in  triumph 
round  the  camp,  shouting  and  dancing,  accompanied  at  the 
same  time  by  the  whole  village. 

On  the  25th  I  bade  adieu  to  my  faithful  companions,  the 
Flatheads,  and  the  Crows.  Accompanied  by  the  Iroquois 
Ignatius,  a  Cree  half-breed  named  Gabriel,  and  by  two  brave 
Americans,  who,  although  Protestants,  wished  to  serve  as 
guides  to  a  Catholic  missionary,  I  once  more  plunged  into 
the  arid  plains  of  the  Yellowstone.  Having  already  de- 
scribed this  region,  I  have  nothing  new  to  add  concerning  it. 
This  desert  is  undoubtedly  dangerous,  and  has  been  the 
scene  of  more  tragic  deeds,  combats,  stratagems  and  savage 
cruelties,  than  any  other  region.  At  each  step,  the  Crow 
interpreter,  Mr.  V.  C,  who  had  sojourned  eleven  years  in 
the  country,  recounted  different  transactions ;  pointing, 
meanwhile,  to  the  spots  where  they  had  occurred,  which,  in 
our  situation,  made  our  blood  run  cold,  and  our  hair  stand 
erect.  It  is  the  battle-ground  where  the  Crows,  the  Black- 
feet,  Sioux,  Cheyennes,  Assiniboins,  Aricaras,  and  Minne- 
tarees,  fight  out  their  interminable  quarrels,  avenging  and 
revenging,  without  respite,  their  mutual  wrongs. 

After  six  days'  march,  we  found  ourselves  upon  the  very 
spot  where  a  combat  had  recently  taken  place.  The  bloody 
remains  of  ten  Assiniboins  who  had  been  slain  were  scat- 
tered here  and  there  —  almost  all  the  flesh  eaten  off  by  the 


400  NEEDFUL    PRECAUTIONS. 

wolves  and  carnivorous  birds.  At  the  sight  of  these  man- 
gled limbs  —  of  the  vultures  that  soared  above  our  heads, 
after  having  satiated  themselves  with  the  unclean  repast, 
and  the  region  round  me,  which  had  so  lately  resounded 
with  the  savage  cries  of  more  savage  men,  engaged  in  mu- 
tual carnage  —  I  own  that  the  little  courage  I  thought  I 
possessed  seemed  to  fail  me  entirely,  and  give  place  to  a 
secret  terror,  which  I  sought  in  vain  to  stifle  or  conceal  from 
my  companions.  We  observed  in  several  places  the  fresh 
tracks  of  men  and  horses,  leaving  no  doubt  in  our  minds  as 
to  the  proximity  of  hostile  parties;  our  guide  even  assured 
me  that  he  thought  we  were  already  discovered,  but  by  con- 
tinuing our  precautions  he  hoped  we  might  perhaps  elude 
their  craftiness  and  malicious  designs,  for  the  savages  very 
seldom  make  their  attacks  in  open  day. 

The  following  is  the  description  of  our  regular  march 
until  the  loth  of  September.  At  daybreak  we  saddled  our 
horses  and  pursued  our  journey;  at  lo  o'clock  we  break- 
fasted in  a  suitable  place,  that  would  offer  some  advantage 
in  case  of  an  attack.  After  an  hour  and  a  half  or  two  hours' 
rest,  we  resumed  our  march  a  second  time,  always  trotting 
our  horses,  until  sunset,  when  we  unsaddled  them  to  dine 
and  sup ;  we  then  lighted  a  good  fire,  hastily  raised  a  little 
cabin  of  branches,  to  induce  our  ever  watchful  foes,  in  case 
they  pursued  us,  to  suppose  that  we  had  encamped  for  the 
night;  for  as  soon  as  the  inimical  videttes  discover  any- 
thing of  the  kind,  they  make  it  known  by  a  signal  to  the 
whole  party.  They  then  immediately  assemble  and  concert 
the  plan  of  attack.  In  the  meantime,  favored  by  the  dark- 
ness, we  pursued  our  journey  quietly  until  ten  or  twelve 
o'clock  at  night,  and  then,  without  fire  or  even  shelter,  each 
one  disposed  himself  as  well  as  he  might,  for  sleep.  It  ap- 
pears to  me  that  I  hear  you  ask :  But  what  did  you  eat  for 
your  breakfast  and  supper?  Examine  the  notes  of  my 
journal,  and  you  will  acknowledge  that  our  fare  was  such 
as  would  excite  the  envy  of  the  most  fastidious  gastronome. 
From  the  25th  of  August  to  the  loth  of  September,  1842, 


f 


MEETS   A   STEAMBOAT.  401 


we  killed,  to  supply  our  wants,  as  we  journeyed  on,  three 
fine  buffalo  cows  and  two  large  bulls  (only  to  obtain  the 
tongue  and  marrow  bones)  ;  two  large  deer,  as  fat  as  we 
could  have  wished;  three  goats,  two  black-tail  deer,  a  big- 
horn or  mountain  sheep,  two  fine  grey  bears,  and  a  swan  — 
to  say  nothing  of  the  pheasants,  fowls,  snipe,  ducks  and 
geese.  In  the  midst  of  so  much  game,  we  scarcely  felt  the 
want  of  bread,  sugar  or  coffee.  Humps,  tongues  and  ribs 
replaced  these.  And  the  bed?  It  is  soon  arranged.  We 
w^ere  in  a  country  where  you  waste  no  time  in  taking  off 
your  shoes;  you  wrap  your  buffalo  robe  around  you,  the 
saddle  serves  as  a  pillow,  and  thanks  to  the  fatigues  of  a 
long  journey  of  about  forty  miles  under  a  burning  sun,  you 
have  scarcely  laid  your  head  upon  it  before  you  are  asleep. 

The  American  gentlemen  who  carry  on  the  Assiniboin 
fur  trade  at  Fort  Union,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Yellowstone, 
received  me  with  great  politeness  and  kindness.  I  rested 
there  during  three  days.  A  journey  so  long  and  continuous, 
through  regions  where  the  drought  had  been  so  great  that 
every  sign  of  vegetation  had  disappeared,  had  very  much 
exhausted  our  poor  horses.  The  i,8oo  miles  that  we  had 
yet  to  travel  were  not  to  be  undertaken  lightly.  After  hav- 
ing well  considered  everything,  I  resolved  to  leave  my 
horses  at  the  fort,  and  to  trust  myself  to  the  impetuous 
waters  of  the  Missouri  in  a  skiff,  accompanied  by  Ignatius 
and  Gabriel.  The  result  was  most  fortunate,  for  on  the 
third  day  of  our  descent,  to  our  great  surprise  and  joy,  we 
heard  the  puffing  of  a  steamboat.  It  was  a  real  God-send 
to  us ;  accordingly,  our  first  thought  was  to  thank  God,  in 
all  the  sincerity  of  our  hearts.  We  soon  beheld  her  ma- 
jestically ascending  the  stream.  It  was  the  first  boat  that 
had  ever  attempted  to  ascend  the  river  in  that  season  of  the 
year,  laden  with  merchandise  for  the  Fur  Company.  Four 
gentlemen  from  New  York,  proprietors  of  the  boat,  invited 
me  to  enter  and  remain  on  board.  I  accepted  with  unfeigned 
gratitude  their  kind  offer  of  hospitality;  the  more  so,  as 
they  assured  me  that  several  war-parties  were  lying  in  am- 
26 


402  SAFE  ARRIVAL  IN  ST.  LOUIS. 

bush  along  the  river.  On  entering  the  boat  I  was  an  object 
of  great  curiosity  —  my  black  gown,  my  missionary  cross, 
my  long  hair,  attracted  attention.  I  had  thousands  of  ques- 
tions to  answer  and  many  long  stories  to  relate  about  my 
journey. 

I  have  but  a  few  words  to  add.  I  baptized  some  fifty 
little  ones,  principally  in  the  forts.  The  waters  were  low, 
the  sand-banks  and  snags  everywhere  numerous;  the  boat 
consequently  encountered  many  obstacles  in  her  passage. 
We  were  frequently  in  great  danger  of  perishing.  Her  keel 
was  pierced  by  pointed  rocks,  her  sides  rent  by  the  snags. 
Twenty  times  the  wheels  had  been  broken  to  pieces.  The 
pilot's  house  had  been  carried  away  in  the  tempest;  the 
whole  cabin  would  have  followed  if  it  had  not  been  made 
fast  by  a  large  cable.  Our  boat  appeared  to  be  little  more 
than  a  mere  wreck,  and  in  this  wreck,  after  forty-six  days' 
navigation  from  the  Yellowstone,  we  arrived  safely  at 
St.  Louis. 

On  the  last  Sunday  of  October,  at  twelve  o'clock,  I  was 
kneeling  at  the  foot  of  St,  Mary's  Altar,  in  the  Cathedral, 
offering  up  my  thanksgiving  to  God  for  the  signal  protec- 
tion he  had  extended  to  his  poor,  unworthy  servant.  From 
the  beginning  of  April  I  had  traveled  5,000  miles.  I 
had  descended  and  ascended  the  dangerous  Columbia  river. 
I  had  seen  five  of  my  companions  perish  in  one  of  those 
life-destroying  whirlpools,  so  justly  dreaded  by  those  who 
navigate  that  stream.  I  had  traversed  the  Willamette, 
crossed  the  Rocky  Mountains,  passed  through  the  country 
of  the  Blackfeet,  the  desert  of  the  Yellowstone,  and  de- 
scended the  Missouri;  and  in  all  ihese  journeys  I  had  not 
received  the  slightest  injury.  "  Dominus  memor  fuit  nostri 
et  benedi.vit  nobis/' 


UNIVERSITY  OF  ILLINOIS-URBANA 
B.S6381C  cooi  unni 

LIFE.  LETTERS  AND  TRAVELS  OF  FATHER  PIER 


3  0112  025409043 


